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23  WEST  MAIN  SXaiET 

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(716)872-4903 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHJVI/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 
D 
D 

n 
n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


Covers  damaged/ 
Couverture  endommagte 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur6e  et/ou  pelliculAe 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gAographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
ReliA  avec  d'autres  documents 


D 


D 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 
La  re  iiure  serr^e  peut  causer  de  i'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intirieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouttos 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  itait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  M  lilmi  s. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppiimentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm*  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'll  lul  a  M  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mAthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqute  ci-dessous. 

□   Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

□    Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagies 

□    Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurAes  et/ou  pelliculAes 

I    "y  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
1  M^  Pages  d6color6es,  tachet^es  ou  piquies 


I      I    Pages  detached/ 


D 


Pages  ditachies 

Chowthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  inigaie  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materit 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppiimentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 


r~T/  Chowthrough/ 

I      I    Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I     I    Includes  supplementary  material/ 

I — I    Only  edition  available/ 


Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  oj  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  M  filmies  A  nouveau  de  fapon  & 
obtenir  la  meiileure  imege  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  rMuction  indiqu*  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

v/ 

12X 


16X 


20X 


a4X 


28X 


32X 


Th«  copy  filmed  hare  has  baan  raproducad  thanks 
to  tha  ganarosity  of: 

Dam  Porter  Arts  Library 
Univartity  of  Watarioo 


L'axampiaira  f ilmA  f ut  raproduit  grAca  h  la 
gAnArositA  da: 

Dana  Portar  Arts  Library 
Univartity  of  Watarioo 


Tha  imagas  appaaring  hera  ara  tha  bast  quality 
possibia  considaring  thu  condition  and  laglbility 
of  tha  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  spacif ications. 


Original  copias  In  printad  papar  covars  ara  filmad 
beginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printad  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  covar  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  Impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printad 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  tt6  reprodultes  avac  la 
plus  grand  soln,  compta  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nattetA  da  i'axemplaira  fiim6,  et  en 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couvarture  en 
papier  est  ImprimAe  sent  film6s  en  commenpant 
par  la  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  ia 
darniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  ia  second 
plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  fllmte  an  commandant  par  ia 
premiere  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboies  suivants  apparaltra  sur  ia 
darnlAre  Image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  la  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  ie 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  ara  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
filmte  A  des  taux  da  reduction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  ie  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  11  est  f  llmA  A  partir 
da  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
iliustrent  ia  mAthoda. 


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MONTREAL,  ALSO,  BALTIMORE,  WASUINQTON, 

AND  NORTHERN  VIRGINIA. 


With  Seven  Maps  and  Fifteen  Irians, 


FOURTH    EDIYIOH. 


BOSTON: 
JAMES  R.  OSGOOD  &  CO. 

1881. 


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Sntered  aocordiiig  to  Aet  of  CoofreM,  In  th«  ymr  1874 

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PREFACE. 


> 


Thb  chief  object  of  the  Handbook  for  the  Middle  States  ia  to 
supply  the  place  of  a  guide  in  a  land  where  professional  guides 
cannot  Iw  found,  and  to  assist  the  traveller  in  gaining  the  great- 
est possible  amount  of  pleasure  and  information  while  passing 
through  the  most  populous  and  wealthy  States  of  the  American 
Union.    The  Middle  States  have  hitherto  been  but  casually 
treated  in  books  which  cover  wider  sections  of  country;  and 
special  localities  within  their  borders  have  been  depcribed  with 
more  or  less  fidelity  in  local  guide-books  ;  but  the  present  vol- 
ume is  the  first  which  has  been  devoted  to  their  treatment 
according  to  the  most  approved  principles  of  the  European 
works  of  similar  purpose  and  character.    The  Handbook  is  de- 
signed to  enable  travellers  to  visit  any  or  all  of  the  notable 
places  in  the  Middle  States,  with  economy  of  money,  time,  and 
temper,  by  giving  lists  of  the  hotels  with  their  prices,  descrip- 
tions of  the  various  routes  by  land  and  water,  and  maps  and 
plans  of  the  principal  cities.     The  letter-press  contains  epitomes 
of  the  histories  of  the  old  river  and  border  towns,  statements^^ 
of  the  principal  scenic  attractions,  descriptions  of  the  art  and 
architecture  of  the  cities,  biographical  sketches  in  connection 
with  the  birthplaces  of  eminent  men,  and  statistics  of  the  chief 
industries  of  the  included  States.     Th^  half-forgptten  but  worthy 
and  heroic  records  of  the  early  Swedish,  Dutch,  French,  Quakier, 
and  Puritan  colonies,  and  their  wars  and  traditions,  have  re- 
ceived special  attention  in  connection  with  the  localities  made 
famous  in  those  remote  days ;  while  numerous  Indian  legends 
will  be  found  in  various  places.    The  military  operations  of  the 


Id: 


h,TB««M*. 


iv 


PREFACE. 


Wars  of  the  Bevolution,  of  1812,  and  of  the  Bebellion  (so  far  as 
they  affected  this  section  of  the  Eepublic)  have  been/ carefully 
studied  and  localized ;  and  the  rise  of  the  great  inland'  cities  has 
been'  traced  and  recordtid.  The  famous  summer  resorts  — 
among  the  mountains  and  by  the  lakes  and  sea  —  with  Tyhich' 
the  Middle  States  abound,  and  which  are  thronged  by  visitors 
from  all  parts  of  the  country,  have  been  described  at  length 
in  these  pages. 

The  plan  and  structure  of  the  book,  its  system  of- treatment 
and  forms  of  abbreviation,  have  been  derived  from  the  European 
Handbooks  of  Karl  Baedeker.  The  typography,  binding,  and 
system  of  city  plans  also  resemble  those  of  Baedeker,  and  hence 
the  grand  desiderata  of  compactness  and  portability,  which 
have  made  his  works  the  most  popular  in  Europe,  have  also  been 
attained  in  the  present  volume.  Nearly  all  the  facts  concerning 
the  routes,  hotels,  and  scenic  attractions  have  been  framed  or 
verified  from  the  Editor's  personal  experience,  after  a  long  period 
of  incessant  travelling  for  this  express  purpose.  The  maps  and 
plans  of  cities  have  been  prepared  with  the  greatest  care,  and  are 
based  on  the  system  of  lettered  and  numbered  squares,  with 
figures  corresponding  to  similar  figures  attached  to  lists  of  the 
chief  public  buildings,  hotels,  churches,  and  other  notable  objects.  ^ 
The  hotels  indicated  by  asterisks  are  those  which  are  believed 
by  the  Editor  to  be  the  most  comfortable  and  elegant.  Trust- 
worthy railroad  time-tables  are  found  in  the  "  Travellers  Official 
Guide "  (with  numerous  maps)  published  monthly  at  Philadel- 
phia. 

In£a,llibility  is  impossible  in  a  work  of  this  nature,  especially 
amid  the  rapid  changes  which  are  ever  going  on  in  America, 
and  hence  the  Editor  will  be  grateful  for  any  bona  fide  correc- 
tions or  suggestions  with  which  travellers  or  residents  may 
furnish  him.  He  would  also  thankfully  acknowledge  his  indebt- 
edness to  the  gentlemen  who  have  revised  the  book  in  advance 
of  publication. 

M.  P.  SWEETSER, 
Editor  of  OsgoocPs  American  Handbooks^ 
211  Tremont  Street^  Botton» 


NEW  YORK 
PBNNSTLVANU 
NEW  JERSET     . 
DELAWARE     .. 
MARYLAND 


CONTENTS. 


VAOI 


3di 

XiT 

XT 

XT 


I.  MONET<jUn>  THAVILUNa  EXPIKSXS 

n.  Railroads  and  Steamboats.   Thi  Chios  Ststui 

in.  ExccBsiONs  ON  Foot 

IV.  Hotels       ...,,.... 

Y.  R0Uin>>TRIP  EZCDBSIOITS  .         •         .         .         . 

YI.  Climate  akd  Dbess 

Yn.  MlSOECLANXOCS  NOTXS 


1 
1 

2 
8 

4 
4 
4 


« 


THE  MIDDLE  STATES. 

ftOOTX  .  . 

l.'Nxw  York  Cnr ;       »       •      .  6 

Metropolitan  Musenin  of  Art         .      ' 28 

ManhattauTille.    CannanSTille 26 

Fifth  Avenue         .       , 28 

Central  Park 82 

The  East  Riyer      . 85 

Jersey  City 88 

2.  Brookltn 88 

Prospect  Park 42 

Greenwood  Cemetery ..48 

Coney  Island * 44 

'  8.  Staten  Island 46 

The  Fortifications  of  New  York 46 

4.  The  South  Shore  of  Long  Island 46 

Rockaway  Beach.    Fire  Island 47 

6.  LoNo  Island.  The  North  and  East  Shores  .  .  .  •  .  48 
Port  Jefferson.    Islip        .       .       .       .       .       .       ,       ,       .       ,61 

Montauk  Point 68 

Greenport.    Shelter  Island 64 

6.  LoNQ  Island.   Tu  Nortswist  Sboai  .      .       .      ....  66 


vi 


CONTENTS 


Mora  tAOM 

7.  Niw  ToRK  TO  yiMcosT.    Thi  Habuic  Boon  •       .      .       .66 

Lake  Mahopae       ...........       69 

Lebanon  Springs 61 

8.  Tub  Hudson  Rives.    New  Yoai  to  Tbot 62 

The  Palisades 68 

Yonkers.    Dobbs*  Feny 6A 

The  Tappan  Zee 65 

Bunnsyside.    Tarrytown 66 

Nyaok.    Sing-Sing 68 

Haverstraw.    Stony  Point 68 

The  Dunderberg.    Peekskili      .       .       . 70 

West  Point 72 

Storm  Kinfr.    Cornwall.    Newburgh        .       .       .       .       .       .       .76 

Porifhkee  )8ie.    Vassar  College      .       . 79 

Rondout.    Overlook  Mountain .        . 81 

Hudson  .....' 88 

.    Albany. 86 

Troy 88 

9.  The  Catskux  Mountains 90 

Palenville       , 92 

~   10.  Albany  to  Montreal 88 

Saratoga  Springs 94 

11.  Lake  Qeorob 108 

12.  Lake  Champlain.    Whushall  to  Montreal 110 

Fort  Ticonderoga Ill 

Crown  Point 114 

Burlington 116 

Ausable  Chasm.    Plattsburgh •   ^^^ 

18.  Montreal 121 

14.  Lake  Champlain  to  Ogdensboro 126 

Malone  to  Paul  Smith's 127 

15.  Ogdbnsbvro  to  Ottawa       ...*.....      128 

The  Ottawa  Riyer * 182 

16.  Saratoga  to  the  Sohroon  and  Raquettb  Lakes 188 

Schroon  Lake     ............  184 

17.  Schroon  Lake  to  the  Southern  Adironbaoks 186 

18.  Plattsburgh  to  the  Saranao  Lakes 188 

Martin's.    Paul  Smith's 189 

19.  Port  Kent  to  the  WiunNOTON  Pass  and  Saranao  Lakes     .       .       .  1^ 

20.  Westport  to  the  Saranao  Lakes 141 

Keene  Talley      . 142 

Ausable  Ponds 148 

Mount  Marcy 144 

21.  The  Saranao  Lakes.    Martin's  to  Cox's  and  Paul  Sboth's     .       .      146 

22.  The  Saranao  Lakes  to  the  Tupper  Lakes 147 

28.  The  Saranao  Lakes  to  Raquette  Lake 149 

24.  UnoA  to  the  St.  Lawrence  River.    Trinton  Falls  anb  tu  John 

^rqwn  ^raqt .162 


CONTENTS.  vii 

« 

Boon  VAm 

Trenton  FaUa  .       . 168 

The  John  Brown  Timet 166 

SacketCs  Harbor 168 

26.  Bom  TO  OODKNSBDBiQ    AMI>    AUUUMDEU  BaT 169 

Wfitertown  to  Cape  Vincent  .........      160 

26.  New  York  to  Utioa,  Boohcstik,  and  Nugaka  Faus    .       .       .       .161 

Fonda  to  GlorersTille  and  Lake  Pleasant 168 

Utlca 166 

Syracuse         . .       .      168 

Rochester 171 

Rochester  to  Bufblo 176 

27.  Niagara  Falls 177 

Queenston.    St.  Catharine's 186 

28.  Niagara  Falls  to  Toronto  and  Mohtbial.    Lakb  Omtabio  ani*  thi  St. 

Lawrenob  River 187 

The  Thousand  Islands Id8 

29.  Syracuse  to  Rochester 200 

Canandaigua  to  Buflalo  and  Niagara     .......      203 

80.  Catuoa  Lake  and  Ithaca 203 

81.  Seneca  Lake  and  Watkins  Olin  .....       ^       ..      208 

The  Havana  Olen 211 

Seneca  Lake 212 

82.  New  York  to  Osweqo 214 

Montclair  Division         .        .        .        .      ^ 214 

Utica  and  Rome  Divisions 216 

88.  Nsw  York  to  Elxira,  BcrrALO,  and  Niagara  Falls  ....    '219 

•      Northern  R.R.  of  New  Jersey  .       .     , 219 

Hackensack  Branch       .       .       « 220 

Rochester  Division 229 

Butblo  Division 282 

BqCblo 283 

Lake  Shore  R.  R. 286 

84.  New  York  to  Ohio 287 

85.  New  York  to  Scranton  and  Oswego 288 

Morris  and  Essex  Division.        .......        .       .239 

Delaware  Water  Gap •     .  •      242 

Richfield  Springs 247 

86.  Nsw  York  to  Central  Pennstltanu  and  thi  Wut  ....     2«9 

87.  New  York  to  Philadelphu      .       . 264 

88.  Phuadelphia 262 

Post-Offlce.    Independence  Hall 269 

Phlla.  Library 270 

Penn.  Hospital.    Historical  Society 271 

Masonic  Temple 276 

Eastern  Penitentiary.    Girard  College 277 

Navy-Yard.    Moyamensing 279 

Fainnount  Park  280 

Hm  WlfMhickoa.   Laurel  mu 284 


Vlll 


CONTENTS. 


Koim                                                                                            rAOt 
Qemuuitowii.  •  OhMtnut  Hill   .-.•.' 286 

VnuiklbTd  Araenal.    Oamden.    FortlfiiBIn        .       .       .       .       .286 

89.  Philadilphu  to  Niw  Yoax        .       .  .......  287 

Freehold.    Monmouth «...      288 

40.  New  York- to  Lomq  Branoh  and  thb  Duawau  Bat     .       .       .       .288 

Long  Branch 289 

Navesink  Highlands.    Tuckerton .291 

41.  Phoadklphia  to  Long  Branoh  and  New  Tobx 298 

42.  Philadelphu  to  At&antio  Citt.       .       .    -  .    • 294 

48.  PanjiDZLPUu.  to  Gape  Mat 296 

44.  Philaselphu  to  the  Delawabe  Water  Gap,  Sorahtov,  aks  Osweqo     298 
46.  Phhju>elphu  to  Central  New  Torx 800 

Bethlehem 801 

Mauoh  Chunk 807 

The  Valley  of  Wyoming 812 

■Sayre  to  Lake  Ontario 819 

46.  Phhjidblphia  to  Saratoga  and  Montreal   .  •    .       .       .       .       .819 

Cooperstown 828 

Otsego  Lake    .        .    ■  826 

Sharon  Springs  .•.-.. .       .826 

47.  Philadelphu  to  Beadinq  and  Williahspors       .....      880 

The  Schuylkill  Coal-Fields 884 

The  Catawissa  B;  R. ;       ^      886 

48.  Readimo  to  Columbia 886 

49.  Reading  to  WiuaNOTON 887 

60.  New  York  and  Philadelphu  to  Harrisbvrg,    Pittsbubcb,  and  thi 

West      .............. -888 

Lancaster       .       i       .<«       ^       ..'...       .      841 

Harrisburg 842 

LewistowB  Division        . 846 

Huntingdon- to  Bedford  Springs 847 

Bald  Eagle  YaUey  . 848 

Hollidaysburg,  etc.     t       i 819 

The  Allei^eny  Mountains 860 

Pittsburgh.       . 858 

Pittsburgh  to  the  West 857 

61.  Pittsburgh  to  Titusville  and  Bufpalo.    Thb  Psnn.  Oa  Regions        .  857 

62.  Pittsburgh  to  Erie 861 

68.  Pittsburgh  to  Wheeling .868 

64.  Pittsburgh  to  Cumkerland .      864 

66i  Philadelphia  to  Erie 866 

Lock  Haven.    Renovo 868 

Erie    .       .       . .       .       .       .       .370 

66.  Philadelphu  to  Buffalo 871 

67.  Harrisburg  to   the  Yallet  of  Wtomino 872 

68.  Harrisburg  to   Carus..e  and  Martinsburg.    The  Cukberland  Yallet  878 

69.  Philadelphu  to  Getttsburo 877 

The  Battle  of  Gettysburg  .       .       .       »       .       .       .       .       .       .  880 


CONTENTS. 


IX 


KOOTl  FAOB 

60.  Baltixobi  to  OimnuL  New  Tors 882 

Minnequa  Springs.    WatkinsGlen.    Kenka  Lake 888 

61.  Pbiladelphu  to  Port  Deposit 886 

62.  Philadelphia  to  WnjiiNOTON  asb  Baixoidri   .  .       .       .       .886 
68.  WiLHiMOTOM  TO  Lewes  AND  Orisfibld.    Thb  State  OF  Delawabb       .      890 

WUmington        .        .        .    • 890 

64.  Baltihorb        .       .       .       .     '.       .       .       .       .       »       .       .      891 

City  Hall.    Battle  Monument 897 

Atheneeum.    Masonic  Temple.    Cathedra! 898 

Washington  Monument.    Peabodjr  Institute 899 

Druid  Hill  Park      .        .        .        .        .        ...       .       .       .      402 

66.  Baltimore  to  the  West 406 

TheBattlesof  South  Mountain  and  Antietam -    409 

The  Shenandoah  Talley .  410 

Berkeley  Springs ...        .        .411 

Deer  Park  Hotel.    Cheat  River  Valley 418 

West  Virginia 414 

66.  Baltimore  to  Washington .       >       .416 

.  Annapolis       .        . .        .       .      416 

67*  Baltimore  to  Washington 419 

68.  New  York  to  Washington .420 

69.  Washington 420 

The  Capitol    .        .        .       .        .        .        .        .        ,       .        .        .426 

Smithsonian  Institution    . 482 

Post-Offlce.    Patent-Office 486 

Model-Rooms.    Army  Medical  MuMum 487 

Treasury.    Executive  Mansion      ...        .^       ...        .      489 
La&yette  Square.    Corcoran  GaUu7  of  Art  .        .  .440 

70.  The  Environs  of  Washington 444 

Georgetown 446 

Great  Falls  .  .        .        .        .        .        .        .        .      447 

ArUngton 448 

Alexandria  ... 449 

Mount  Vernon .        .        .        .        .        .  460 

INDBBTOLOOALITIIS    . 458 

Index  to  Historical  Allusions 466 

Index  to  Biographical  Allusions 467 

Index  TO  Quotations 467 

Index  to  Railroads 468 

Index  to  Steamboats 469 


MAPS. 

1.  RAmtOAB  Map  07  the  Middlb  States. 

2.  Map  or  thx  Catskox  MouNTAiirs  :  fronting  page  90. 
8.  Map  or  thi  Hodson  River  :  between  pages  62  and  68. 
4.  Map  or  Long  Island  :  between  pages  4&  and  49. 

6.  Map  or  the  Environs  or  New  York  :  between  pages  88  and  89. 
6.  Map  or  the  Environs  or  Philadelphia  :  between  pages  284  and  285. 


PLANS  OF  CITIES,  eto. 

1.  Baltimore  :  between  pages  894  and  895> 

2.  Brooklyn  :  between  pages  88  and  89. 
8.  BurrALO :  between  pages  282  and  288. 

4.  Central  Park  :  between  pages  82  and  83. 

6.  Greenwood  Cemetert  :  between  pages  42  and  48. 
6*  Montreal  :  between  pages  120  and  121. 

7.  New  York  Oitt  :  between  pages  4  and  6 

8.  NuoARA  Falls:  &cing page  177. 

9.  Ottawa  :  between  pages  128  and  129. 

10.  Philadelphu  :  between  pages  262  and  268. 

11.  PrrrsBUROH:  between  pages  852  and  858. 

12.  Rochester  :  between  pages  170  and  171. 
18.  Saratoga  :  between  pages  94  and  95. 
14.  Toronto  :  between  pages  186  and  187. 
Ifi.  Washington  :  between  pages  418  and  411 . 


ABBREVIATIONS. 


N.  —  North,  northern,  etc. 
8.  —  South,  etc. 
E.  —  East,  eto. 
W.  — West,  etc. 
M.  —  Mile,  or  miles. 


r.  —  right. 

1.  — left. 

ft.  —  foot,  or  feet. 

hr.  —  hour. 

min.  —  minute,  or  minutes. 


AtteilakB  denote  objects  deserving  of  special  attention. 


THE  MIDDLE  STATES. 


85. 


I 


I 


Kew  York. 

"The  Empire  State  "  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Lake  Ontario  and  the 
Province  of  Ontario,  on  the  E.  by  the  States  of  Vermont,  Massachusetts, 
and  Connecticut,  on  the  S.  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean  and  the  States  of  New 
Jersey  and  Pennsylvania,  and  on  the  W.  by  Pennsylvania,  Lake  Erie,  and 
the  Niagara  River.  It  covers  47,000  square  miles,  and  is  divided  into  60 
counties,  with  930  towns  and  22  cities;  and  the  population  is  4,382,759, 
with  823,484  voters  (census  of  1870),  making  it  the  most  populous  State 
of  the  Republic.  1,138,353  of  the  inhabitants  are  foreign-bom.  The 
manufacturing  interests  are  of  great  extent  and  variety,  and  in  1865  re- 
ported 24,530  establishments,  employing  206,166  persons  and  $  227,674,187 
of  capital,  and  producing  annually  $  457,133,717  worth  of  goods.  The 
commerce  of  New  York  is  larger  than  that  of  any  other  State,  and  is 
slowly  recovering  from  the  cinishing  blows  inflicted  by  the  Anglo-Rebel 
privateers,  which  reduced  its  tonnage  of  921,933  in  1862  to  471,473  tons 
in  1865.  New  York  City  is  the  only  important  ocean-port,  F,nd  is  the 
commercial  metropolis  of  the  Western  Hemisphere.  The  lake  ports 
(Oswego,  Buffalo,  Geneva,  etc.)  have  an  enrolled  tonnage  of  over  312,000 
tons.  There  are  167  insurance  companies,  and  savings-banks  with  de- 
posits amounting  to  nearly  $  200,000,000.  The  immense  railroad  systems 
connected  with  the  N.  Y.  Central  &  Hudson  River  and  the  Erie  com- 
panies cover  most  of  the  inhabited  counties  with  their  tra«iks,  and  the 
canals  (which  are  under  the  care  of  the  State)  transport  vast  quantities  of 
provisions  and  miscellaneous  goods. 

The  State  Census  of  1865  reported  60  religious  sects,  with  5,388  church 
edifices,  valued  (together  with  their  land)  at  over  $  50,000,000,  with  a 
membership  of  741,831,  and  an  average  attendance  of  1,070,662.  The 
Methodist  Church  greatly  preponderates  in  numerical  strength ;  and  the 
Presbyterians  and  Baptists  come  next.  The  Episcopal  Church  has  great 
wealth  and  influence;  and  the  Roman  Catholics  exercise  a  controlling 
power  in  the  chief  cit,  of  the  State. 

Tlie  military  force  consists  of  24,285  citizens,  enrolled  in  8  divisions, 
consisting  of  39  regiments,  10  battalions,  7  troops,  and  11  batteries.  The 
term  of  service  is  7  years,  during  which  the  men  are  exempt  from  jury- 


I 


Zll 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


duty  and  receive  pay  for  the  6  annual  drills  and  the  summer  encampments. 
Behind  this  disciplined  and  mobilized  force  is  the  immense  strength  of  the 
Reserve  Militia,  which  is  liable  to  be  called  into  service  in  time  of  na- 
tional  peril.  During  the  Secession  War  (1861  -  65)  the  military  strength 
of  the  State  was  displayed  in  a  remarkable  degree,  and  there  were  sent 
thence  to  the  scene  of  war:  26  regiments  of  cavalry ;  17  regiments,  3  bat- 
talions,  and  34  batteries  of  artillery;  4  regiments  of  engineers;  and  194 
regiments  of  infantry  (mostly  for  three  years'  service). 

The  present  territory  of  New  York  State  was  discovered  in  1609  by 
Henry  Hudson  (of  the  Dutch  East  India  Company)  on  the  Hudson 
River  side;  and  by  Samuel  de  Champlaiu,  the  French  Governor  of  Canada, 
on  the  Lake  Champlain  side.  Dutch  trading-posts  were  established  in 
1613  and  1614,  and  the  country  was  named  the  New  Netherlands.  Large 
immigrations  of  Hollanders  soon  occupied  the  Hudson  River  Valley,  and 
in  1664  the  country  was  conquered  by  a  Britisu  fleet,  and  was  named  New 
York.  Thenceforth  for  nearly  a  century  the  new  province  was  engaged 
in  almost  constant  warfare  with  the  French  in  Canada,  being  aided  by 
the  powerful  Indian  confederacy  of  the  Six  Nations.  But  a  short  time 
after  the  Conquest  of  Canada  New  York  entered  the  new  American  Re« 
public  and  became  a  powerful  member  of  the  Union.  Much  of  the  Revo- 
lutionary contest  was  carried  on  within  its  borders,  and  ita  chief  city  was 
occupied  for  7  years  by  the  royal  forces.  Since  the  beginning  of  the 
present  century  the  growth  and  development  of  the  State  have  been  rapid 
and  healthy,  and  it  is  now  the  foremost  of  the  United  States. 

PenxuBylvania. 

.  "  The  Keystone  State  "  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Lake  Erie  and  the 
State  of  New  York,  on  the  E.  by  New  York  and  New  Jersey,  ou  the  S.  by 
Delaware,  Maryland,  and  West  Virginia,  and  on  the  W.  by  West  Vir- 
ginia and  Ohio.  It  is  crossed  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W.  by  the  Allegheny  Mts. 
in  a  belt  200  M.  wide,  which  is  occupied  by  long  parallel  ridges  separated 
by  narrow  and  picturesque  valleys.  The  extensive  districts  which  are 
included  in  the  limestone  valleys  are  among  the  most  fertile  in  the  Repub- 
lic, and  are  densely  populated  by  agricultural  populations  (mostly  of 
Germanic  origin).  The  State  derives  its  chief  importance  from  the  great 
mines  of  coal  and  iron  which  are  scattered  throughout  the  hill-country ; 
and  the  aggregate  of  its  iron  manufactures  is  of  great  value,  and  is  con- 
?jtantly  increasing.  Between  1840  and  1870  (inclusive)  over  200,000,000 
tons  of  anthracite  coal  were  mined  here,  besides  immense  quantities  of, 
bituminous  coal  in  the  Western  counties.  The  petroleum  trade  is  of  more 
recent  development,  and  between  1860  and  1870  (inclusive)  there  were 
produced  85,430,217  barrels  of  petroleum,  a  lai^e  portion  of  which  was 
exported.    Marble,  copper,  zinc,  salt,  and  saltpetre  are  also  found  in  large 


PENNSYLVANIA. 


ziii 


t 


quantities.  Varied  and  extensive  manufactures  are  carried  on  at  Phila- 
delphia,  Pittsburgh,  and  other  of  the  chief  cities.  Since  the  State  has  no 
ocean-front,  its  commerce  is  small  in  comparison  with  that  of  New  York 
or  Massachusetts;  but  a  lucrative  transatlantic  and  coe  <g  trade  is 
centring  in  Philadelphia,  and  Pittsburgh  commands  a  consluerable  share 
of  the  commerce  of  the  Ohio  River.  The  railroad  system  is  at  present 
composed  of  several  first-class  lines  (controlled  by  the  Penn.  R.  R.),  and 
will  be  quite  complete  when  the  roads  which  are  now  in  actual  process  of 
construction  are  finished. 

Pennsylvania  has  3,521,791  inhabitants.  It  covers  44,317  squara  miles, 
and  is  divided  into  65  counties,  1,471  towns,  417  boroughs,  and  19  cities. 
It  is  claimed  that  the  climate  is  milder  than  that  of  New  York,  except  on 
the  northern  plateaus,  whose  mean  temperature  is  nearly  as  low  as  that 
of  Southern  New  England  (which  is  on  the  same  latitude). 

The  census  of  1860  reported  in  Pennsylvania  40  religious  sects,  with 
5,337  churches  valued  at  $22,581,479  (one  church  for  every  543  inhabit- 
tants).  The  Methodists,  as  usual,  are  very  far  in  the  majority,  next  to 
whom  come  the  Lutherans,  Presbyterians,  German  Reformed,  and  Bap- 
tists. There  are  numerous  quaint  sects  of  Germanic  origin,  whose  names 
are  seldom  heard  elsewhere  in  America,  —  Moravians,  Dunkards,  Amish, 
Mennonites,  etc. 

The  military  organization  of  the  State  is  less  elaborate  than  that  of 
some  other  of  the  Eastern  States,  but  is  capable  of  tremendous  action  in 
time.  The  first  Northern  troops  who  reached  imperilled  Washington  in 
1861  were  Pennsylvanians;  and  during  the  Secession  War  the  State  fur- 
nished to  the  national  government  362,284  soldiers,  exclusive  of  the 
powerful  levies  from  the  local  militia  for  the  repulse  of  the  rebel  in- 
vasions. 

The  shores  of  the  Delaware  were  settled  before  1640  by  Swedes  and 
Finns,  who  were  subjugated  in  1655  by  the  Dutch  from  New  York.  In 
1664  the  land  was  taken  by  the  British,  and  in  1681  was  granted  by  King 
Charles  II.  to  William  Penn,  and  the  new  domain  was  named  Pennsyl- 
vania (the  Penn  Forest,  Penn's  Woods,  or  as  the  grantee  preferred  to 
understand,  "The  Mountain  Forest,"  —  from  the  Welsh  word,  Pen,  a 
mountain,  and  the  Latin  Sylva,  a  forest).  Penn  soon  came  to  his  new 
estates,  and  founded  the  city  of  Philadelphia.  An  honorable  peace  was 
concluded  with  the  Indian  tribes  and  the  colony  grew  rapidly,  receiving 
large  accessions  of  English  and  Welsh  Friends.  After  the  year  1700  be- 
gan the  great  Germanic  immigration  which  slowly  pressed  out  or  sub- 
merged the  English  Quaker  settlements  in  the  rural  counties,  which  are 
still  occupied  by  the  conservative  and  unassimilated  myriads  of  the 
"  Pennsylvania  Dutch."  The  State  took  a  prominent  part  in  the  Revolu- 
tionary War  (though  the  Quaker  citizens  were  genendly  opposed  to  the 


xiy 


NEW  JERSEY. 


indep<^ndenoe  of  America),  and  several  deeperate  battles  were  fought  on 
her  soil.  The  Whiskey  Insurrection  occurred  in  the  western  counties  in 
1794,  but  was  soon  broken  up.  Thenceforth  for  many  years  the  citizens 
carried  forward  the  development  of  the  vast  mineral  resources  of  the 
State,  and  founded  new  cities  and  prosperous  boroughs.  During  the 
Secession  War,  Pennsylvania  acted  with  promptitude  and  power,  giving 
her  whole  strength  to  the  National  cause.  Her  soil  was  twice  invaded  by 
the  Southern  armies,  who  advanced  to  within  four  miles  of  the  capital ;  and 
within  her  borders,  at  the  obscure  borough  of  Gettysburgh,  was  fought 
the  tremendous  three-days  battle  whose  issue  insured  the  integrity  of  the 
Bepublic. 

Few  Jeriay 

is  bounoisd  on  the  N.  by  the  State  of  New  York,  on  the  E.  by  New  York 
and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  on  the  S.  by  the  Delaware  Bay,  and  on  the  W. 
by  Pennsylvania.  The  S.  and  middle  portions  are  level  and  sandy,  and 
are  bordered  by  narrow  salt-water  lagoons;  but  the  N.  and  N.  W.  por- 
tions are  covered  with  low  and  lake-strewn  spurs  of  the  Allegnany  Mts. 
Only  a  small  portion  (relatively)  of  the  land  is  improved,  as  the  e.ttensive 
pine-plains  toward  the  ocean  have  an  unprolific  soil.  The  chief  natural 
products  are  fruits  and  vegetables,  which  are  readily  disposed  of  in  the 
great  markets  of  New  York  and  Philadelphia.  The  manufacturing  in- 
terests are  important,  the  most  unique  being  the  extensive  silk-factories 
at  Paterson.  The  railroad  system  is  well  arranged  and  powerful,  and  is 
mostly  controlled  by  the  Penn.  B.  R. ;  and  there  nre  two  long  canals,  one 
of  which  is  for  the  passage  of  large  vessels  betwc^in  the  Delaware  River 
and  the  lower  bay  of  New  York.  Iron  and  zinc  mines  are  profitably 
worked  in  the  N.  W.  counties;  and  valuable  beds  of  marl  and  glass-sand 
are  found  in  the  E.  and  S.  Notwithstanding  its  long  ocean-front,  the 
commerce  of  the  State  is  insignificant,  being  monopolized  by  the  cities  of 
New  York  and  Philadelphia. 

The  ecclesiastical  statistics  of  1860  showed '1,123  churches,  valued  at 
$  7,762,705  (one  church  for  every  598  persons).  The  predominant  sects 
axe  the  Methodists  and  Presbyterians.  A  well-disciplined  force  of  citizen- 
soldiery  is  kept  under  discipline  and  in  marching  order,  and  the  State 
furnished  nearly  90,000  men  to  the  national  armies  during  the  Secession 
War. 

New  Jersey  has  906,096  inhabitants.  It  covers  an  area  of  8,820  square 
miles,  and  is  divided  into  21  counties. 

This  region  was  settled  by  the  Dutch  near  Bergen  in  1614,  and  by  the 
Swedes  on  the  Delaware  Bay  in  1627.  After  the  British  conquest  of  New 
York  (1664),  it  was  granted  by  the  Duke  of  York  to  Lord  Berkeley  and 
Sir  Oeoige  Carteret,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  the  latter,  who  was  a 


DELAWARE. 


natire  of  the  We  of  Jersey  (in  the  English  Channel)  Tt  vras  di  Jed 
into  East  and  West  Jersey,  the  latter  of  which  was  occui>it5(i  by  W  am 
Penn.  Puritan  colonies  from  New  England  settled  near  the  N.  shores, 
and  English  Friends  occupied  the  S.  W.  During  the  Revolutionary  War 
the  State  was  the  scene  of  three  American  victories,  and  of  two  winter- 
encampments  of  the  Continental  army. 

Delaware  •  ' 

is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  the  State  of  Pennsylvania ;  on  the  R  by  the 
Delaware  River  and  Bay ;  on  the  S.  and  W.  by  Maryland.  It  is  the 
smallest  State  in  the  Union,  except  Rhode  Island,  and  contains  2,002 
square  miles,  which  are  divided  into  3  counties  and  27  hundreds  (corre- 
sponding to  towns).  The  population  is  126,015  ;  and  in  1860  there  were 
220  churches,  valued  at  $846,160  (one  church  to  every  610  persons). 
There  is  a  main  trunk-line  of  railroad  running  from  Wilmington  S. 
across  the  State,  with  several  branches  to  the  E.  and  W. ;  and  the  Ches- 
apeake &  Delaware  Canal  gives  passage  for  small  vessels  between  the 
great  bays  on  either  side.  The  manufacturing  interests  are  clustered 
about  Wilmington ;  and  the  majority  of  the  people  are  engaged  in  agri- 
culture, producing  large  crops  of  wheat,  Indian  com,  Irish  and  sweet 
jwtatoes,  berries  and  peaches,  and  valuable  supplies  of  butter  and  honey. 
The  upper  part  of  the  State  is  diversified  with  rounded  hills  and  fruitful, 
valleys;  but  the  lower  counties  form  vast  plains,  which  degenerate  into 
cypress-swamps  along  the  S.  boundary. 

Delaware  was  discovered  by  Henry  Hudson  in  1609,  and  was  settled 
at  an  early  day  by  the  Swedes,  according  to  the  plans  of  King  Qustavus 
Adolphus.  After  4  Swedish  governors  had  held  the  reins  of  power,  the 
colony  was  conquered  by  the  Dutch  (1655),  and  was  occupied  by  the 
British  in  1664.  The  name  of  the  State  was  given  in  honor  of  Thomas 
West,  Loi-d  De  la  Ware,  sometime  governor  of  Virginia,  who  died  on 
shipboard  in  the  Delaware  Bay,  June  7, 1618.  The  territory  was  granted 
to  William  Penn  in  1682,  but  was  separated  from  his  domain  in  1701. 
Under  the  guidance  of  Dickinson  and  Rodney,  it  bore  a  bravely  patriotic 
part  in  the  Revolutionary  War,  though  part  of  its  territory  was  overrun 
by  the  royal  troops.  Although,  on  account  of  its  position  as  a  slave- 
holding  border  State,  Delaware  was  importuned  by  the  Southern  leaders 
to  secede  from  the  Union,  it  continued  firmly  loyal,  and  sent  to  the 
national  armies  8  regiments,  a  cavalry  battalion,  and  a  battery. 

Maryland 

is  one  of  the  Southern  States,  and  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by  Pennsylvania, 
on  the  K  by  Delaware  and  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  on  the  S.  by  Virginia,  and 
on  the  W.  by  W.  Virginia  and  Virginia.    It  covers  11,124  square  miles. 


I 


xvi 


MARYLAND. 


I  >*. 


and  ii  of  varying  nstnral  oharaoteristios.  8  oountiea  are  located  on  the 
level  peninsula  (called  "  the  Kastem  Sir  e")  between  the  Chesapeake  Bay 
and  the  ocean,  and  are  indented  by  deep  tidal  estuaries,  which  abound  in 
oysters  and  flsh..  The  western  counties  are  mountainous,  and  contain 
rast  deposits  of  semi-bituminous  coal,  which  is  shipped  from  Cumberland 
on  the  Chesapeake  k  Ohio  CanaL  Maryland  is  one  of  the  foremost  States 
in  a  commercial  point  of  view,  most  of  its  marine  trade  centring  at  F  lii- 
more.  Wheat,  Indian  com,  and  tobacco  are  the  chief  agricultural  prod- 
ucts, and  cotton  is  raised  on  the  Eastern  Shore. 

Maryland  was  originally  named  Terra  Marias,  or  Mary's  Land,  in 
honor  of  Queen  Henrietta  Maria,  and  was  settled  along  the  Chesapeake 
in  1681-82  by  afHuent  Catholic  families.  For  many  years  the  province 
was  agitated  by  conflicts  between  the  Puritans  at  Providence  (Annapolis) 
and  the  Catholics.  In  1649  the  act  of  toleration  was  passed  which  made 
Maryland  "the  land  of  the  sanctuary."  The  attacks  of  hostile  Indians 
on  the  W.  disciplined  the  people,  so  that  the  "  Maryland  Line  "  wab  one 
of  the  most  valiant  bodies  of  troops  in  the  Continental  army.  Tho  State 
wavered  for  a  moment  when  the  Secession  War  broke  out  (being  a 
Southern  and  slave  State),  but  finally  rejected  the  ordinance  of  Secession, 
and  remained  true  to  the  Union.  Many  regiments  from  Maryland  en- 
tered the  national  armies,  and  others  were  enrolled  among  the  Confederate 
foioet. 


INTRODUCTION. 


I.  Money  and  TrftYelling  SzpeiiMi. 

The  notes  of  the  U.  S.  Treasury  and  the  national  banks  are  the  tisnal 
forms  of  money  in  circulation,  although  gold  coin  is  sometimes  seen. 
The  silver  coins,  valued  at  10,  25,  and  50  cents,  are  common  ;  and  so  are 
the  nickel  and  mixeil  coins,  of  1,  2, 8,  and  5  cents.  The  expense  of  trav- 
elling  in  the  Eastern  States  has  been  very  materially  reduced  during  the 
last  six  years,  in  keeping  with  the  general  contraction  of  values  and  the 
falling  of  war-prices. 

The  usual  charge  per  day  at  the  best  hotels  is  $4  to  $5.00,  with  con- 
siderable reductions  when  a  prolonged  stay  is  made  at  one  place.  Tourists 
who  travel  slowly  through  the  country,  and  stop  at  the  less  pretentious 
hotels  (which  are  usually  comfortable,  and  always  safe),  may  easily  limit 
their  expenses  to  $25  or  $30  per  week.  Those  who  frequent  hotels  of 
the  highest  class,  and  indulge  much  in  carriage-riding,  will  find  $  45  to 
$50  per  week  none  too  much.  At  most  of  the  sea-beaches  board  can  be 
secured  at  $10  or  $15  per  week ;  while,  in  the  quieter  and  less  fashion- 
able villages  about  the  mountains,  substantial  fare  may  be  found  in  broad 
old  farm-houses  for  $  6  to  $  10  per  week. 


II.  Bailroadi  and  Steamboata. 

Railroad  travelling  in  America  is  much  more  comfortable,  yet  more 
expensive  and  dangerous,  than  in  the  Old  World.  There  is  but  one  class 
of  tickets,  the  average  fares  being  about  three  cts.  a  mile.  On  each  train 
is  a  smoking-car,  easily  accessible  from  the  other  cars,  and  fitted  with 
tables  for  card-playing.  It  is  prudent  to  decline  playing  .with  strangers, 
as  gamblers  sometimes  practise  their  arts  here,  in  spite  of  the  watchful- 
ness of  the  officers  of  the  train.  To  nearly  every  through  train  on  the 
grand  routes  is  attached  one  or  more  palace  cars,  which  are  richly 
carpeted  and  curtained,  and  profusely  furnished  with  sofas,  easy-chairs, 
tables,  and  mirrors,  and  fronted  with  broad  plate-glass  windows.  These 
cars  being  well  balanced,  and  running  on  twelve  wheels,  glide  over  the  rails 
with  great  ease.  By  night  they  are  ingeniously  changed  into  sleeping- 
rooms,  with  comfortable  beds.    The  extra  fares  on  the  palace-cars  are 


INTRODUCTION. 


collected  by  men  attached  to  them.  The  usual  price  of  a  night's  lodging 
is  $2.  The  fares  by  steamboat  are  somewhat  lower  than  by  rail,  and  (in 
case  of  a  night  passage)  include  a  sleeping-berth  in  the  lower  saloon,  but 
generally  do  not  include  meals.  A  state-room  in  the  upper  cabin  costs 
extra,  but  insures  better  air  and  greater  comfort  and  privacy.  State-rooms 
(in  the  summer  season)  should  be  secured  in  advance  at  the  company's 
office  in  New  York,  Philadelphia,  or  Baltimore.  Great  lines  of  stages 
still  run  among  the  mountains  and  in  the  remote  rural  districts.  Persons 
travelling  by  this  way,  in  pleasant  weather,  should  try  to  get  a  seat  on 
^he  outside. 

The  Check  System.  — The  traveller,  having  bought  a  ticket  for  his  des- 
tination, shows  his  heavy  baggage  (trunks,  etc.)  to  the  baggage-master, 
yrho  attaches  a  small  numbered  brass  plate  to  each  piece  with  a  leather 
thong,  and  gives  to  the  traveller  a  check  for  each  piece  of  baggage,  similar 
'in  form  and  number  to  that  appended  to  such  piece.  The  railroad  now 
becomes  responsible  (within  certain  limits  of  weight  and  value)  for  the 
baggage,  which  is  to  be  given  up  only  on  the  presentation  of  the  dupli- 
cate check  which  is  in  the  traveller's  possession.  Trunks  may  be  thus 
despatched  from  New  York  or  Philadelphia  to  Chicago,  Montreal,  Wash- 
ington, etc.,  without  trouble  ;  and  if  their  owner  is  delayed  on  the  route, 
they  are  stored  safely  at  their  destined  station  until  he  calls.  On  pres- 
entation of  the  check  at  the  baggage-room  of  the  station  to  which  the 
baggage  has  been  sent,  it  is  given  up  to  the  owner  or  his  hotel  porter. 
The  large  hotels  have  coaches'  at  the  railroad  stations,  on  the  arrival  of 
through  trains;  and  their  porters  will  take  the  duplicate  checks,  get  the 
trunks,  and  carry  them  to  the  hotel. 


III.  ExonrsioiiB  on  Foot. 

It  is  remarkable  that  pedestrianism  has  never  been  popular  in  this 
country.  The  ease  ard  perfect  freedom  of  this  mode  of  travelling,  its 
highly  beneficial  physical  effects,  the  leisure  thus  afforded  in  which  to 
study  the  beautiful  scenery  in  otherwise  remote  and  inaccessible  districts, 
—  all  mark  this  as  one  of  the  most  profitable  and  pleasant  modes  of 
summer  recreation.  To  walk  two  hundred  miles  in  a  fortnight  is  an  easy 
thing;  and  it  is  infinitely  more  refreshing  for  a  man  of  sedentary  habits 
than  the  same  length  of  time  spent  in  lying  on  the  sands  of  some  beach, 
or  idling  in  a  farm-house  among  the  hills.  **  For  a  tour  of  two  or  three 
weeks,  a  couple  of  flannel  shirts,  a  pair  of  worsted  stockings,  slippers, 
and  the  articles  of  the  toilet,  carried  in  a  pouch  slung  over  the  shoulder, 
wiJl  generally  be  found  a  sufficient  equipment,  to  which  a  light  overcoat 
and  a  stout  umbrella  may  be  added.    Strong  and  well-tried  boots  are  es- 


INTRODUCTION. 


"M 


sential  to  comfort.  Heavy  and  complicated  knapsacks  should  be  avoided. 
A  light  pouch,  or  game-bag,  is  far  less  ii'ksome,  and  its  position  may  be 
shifted  at  pleasure."  (Baedeker.)  One  or  two  books  might  be  added  to 
this  list;  and  a  reserve  of  clothing  may  be  sent  on  in  a  light  valise,  at  a 
trifling  cost,  to  the  town  which  is  the  pedestrian's  objective  point. 

It  would  be  well  for  inexperienced  walkers  to  begin  at  eight  to  ten 
miles  a  day,  and  gradually  increase  to  sixteen  to  eighteen  miles,  or  six 
hours'  walking.  During  the  heats  of  summer  the  travelling  should  be 
done  at  early  morning  and  late  afternoon,  thus  spending  the  hottest  part 
of  the  day  in  coolness  and  rest.  The  best  time  for  a  pedestrian  tour  is 
between  late  September  and  late  October,  when  the  sky  is  clear  and  the 
air  bracing,  — the  season  of  the  reaping  of  harvests,  the  ripening  of  fruits> 
and  the  splendor  of  the  reddening  forests. 

Among  the  most  interesting  routes  for  the  pedestrian  in  the  Middle 
States  may  be  mentioned :  The  valley  of  the  Hudson  River,  from  New 
York  to  Hudson,  or  even  to  Albany  ;  the  romantic  Highland  region,  ex- 
tending S.  W.  from  "West  Point  by  the  Ramapo  Valley  and  into  the  lake- 
strewn  hills  of  New  Jersey  ;  the  Catskill  Mts.,  whose  picturesque  cloves 
and  stately  peaks  are  much  frequented  by  artists  and  trout-fishers ;  the 
W.  shore  of  Lakes  George  and  Champlain ;  the  upper  Delaware  Valley, 
from  the  Water  Gap  to  Port  Jervis.  The  road  from  Sag  Harbor  to  Mon- 
tauk  Point  affords  a  short  walk  through  a  primitive  region  beyond  rail- 
roads, and  with  naught  to  attract  the  attention  but  the  neighboring  sea. 
The  lake  region  of  Northern  New  York  is  traversed  by  small  boats  ex- 
clusively; but  the  Adirondack  Mts.  afiford  good  walking-ground,  with 
poor  inns  and  rugged  roads,  but  abounding  in  fine  scenery.  The  Keene 
Valley,  Elizabethtown,  and  Schroon  Lake  districts  are  among  the  best  in 
this  section,  and  parties  of  pedestrians  «rould  do  well  to  engage  local 
guides  ($  2  -  3  a  day).  The  Maryland  Glades  afford  pleasant  scenery,  and 
are  visited  by  sportsmen  and  trout-fishers. 


IV.  Hotels. 

The  hotels  of  the  United  States  will  certainly  bear  comparison  with 
those  of  any  other  country.  Tlie  European  plan  has  been  adopted  in  many 
of  them,  while  in  many  others  it  is  used  in  combination  with  the  American 
plan,  —  $  4  to  $  5  per  day  at  the  more  fashionable  houses,  $  2.50  to  $  4 
per  day  at  the  comfortable  hotels  of  the  smaller  cities,  and  $  1.60  to  $  2.50 
per  day  in  the  smaller  houses  in  the  rural  districts,  are  the  charges  which 
cover  all  ordinary  requirements.  No  costly  array  of  sundries  and  extras 
is  attached  to  the  bill,  and  the  practice  of  feeing  the  servants  has  never 
obtained  to  any  great  extent,  nor  has  it  been  found  necessary. 


INTRODUCTION. 


V.  Bound-Trip  Ezoariions. 

During  the  summer  and  early  fall  the  railroad  companies  prepare  lista 
of  excursion-tickets  at  greatly  reduced  prices.  Information  and  lists  of 
these. routes  may  be  obtained  from  the  cential  offices  in  New  York  and 
Philadelphia  (either  by  personal  application  or  by  letter). 


71.  Climate  and  Dreis. 

The  climate  of  the  Middle  States  is  subject  to  sudden  and  severe  changes, 
from  heat  to  cold  or  from  cold  to  heat.  The  summers  are  usually  hotter 
and  the  winters  colder  than  in  England,  and  during  the  latter  season  great 
falls  of  snow  are  frequent.  The  summer  sun  is  often  fatal  in  its  power, 
and  long  exposure  to  its  vertical  rays  should  be  avoided.  At  the  same 
time  warm  clothing  should  be  kept  at  hand,  and  woollen,  or  at  least  heavy 
cotton,  underclothing  should  be  worn,  in  order  to  guard  against  the  sudden 
changes  which  are  so  frequent. 

^^  VIX.  MisoellaneonB  Notes. 

Passports  are  of  no  use  in  the  United  States  in  time  of  peace. 

The  examination  of  luggage  at  the  Canadian  frontier  and  at  the  ocean- 
ports  is  usually  very  lenient,  and  conducted  in  a  courteous  manner. 

Traffic  is  made  easy  from  the  fact  that  fixed  charges  exist  in  the  shops, 
and  the  tiresome  processes  of  chaffing  and  beating  down  are  unnecessary. 

There  are  no  professional  guides  in  the  Middle  States  (except  at  Niagara 
Falls  and  among  the  Adirondack  Mts.  and  lakes),  but  the  people  are 
prompt  and  willing  to  answer  all  civilly  put  questions.  Gentlemen  from 
abroad  will  remember  that  therg  is  here,  especially  in  the  country,  no  class 
of  self-recognized  peasantry,  and  that  a  haughty  question  or  order  will 
often  provoke  a  reply  coached  in  all  "the  native  rudeness  of  the  Saxon 
tongue." 


1  >■ 
! 

i 

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re  list* 
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shops, 
ssary. 
iagara 
e  are 
from 
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T  will 
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i' 


OMaey  House  (Broadway  and  2dth  St.)  are  the  tinest  European<plan  hotels  ia 
America.   These  immense  hotels  are  amply  supplied  with  all  the  luxuries  of  mod- ' 
em  American  civilization,  and  are  ixnexoelled  in  the  world.    The  St.  Cloud  is  a 
flue  up-town  hotel  at  Broadway  and  42d  St. ;  the  Grand  Union  (Park  Ave.  and 
41st  St.)  is  couveuiently  situated  for  passengers  arriving  by  late  tniins  from  Now 


WKWWBUIL. 


(yfyOM  0.7- 

fkwi  Ht>mst  0-T 

AW  OfUe  Dl- 

Hen  I'M  (^te  C  7. 

Vuj>t0mH«uM  D.8 

Siih.  IWojtun/  D.l. 

7.  fla^lU  Garden  <».8. 

8.  7WA»  D.6 
».  VeoptrlHgtHiiU  D.5 
10.  y. JV. <iAstiHinh0M     0  3 

I ?. ffa/A*/y ^/iw il/-'*    C i. 
13.  Kntcrvci*-  <'-2 

I.V  ,VZdtf>       M  (1.1.1. W 

|(>.  IndJcrtheBUnd 

17.  ftit Joints  MistuM 

IP.  ff.tf.  OrphmnAs^um  C.l 

!•».  WfimoHitJlivpifa/       D.l 

20.  il«fvr  Lihrarn 

'*'!.  TTmifnvihj  rf jr.Y 

2t.  tjUumbia.(Mle<f^ 

'J  1-.  (/#•/».  Tluwhf  Si-m       B  4" 

'.':>  yVwhtnften Market   C.7 

26.  ?WC^//  M  0.7. 

CniTHCHES 


43.  Ornnd  Oflml 
16.  Mef'-fpcfittn 
All.  OniMifVnu>» 
18.  Bmrtdrrth 
49.  iUrcr 
M.  J\rHfli'a 
M.  ir(^/n«/» 
52.  Everett 
M.  Stlknit 
115.  Wr^Onhutff 
THEATnES 


K3. 


*f».  Uoptlis 
Vfalf0(k> 

:it*immitf  Hall 
DEPOTS. 


,^8. 
*9. 


D.5. 
0.5. 
U2. 
<'.«. 
C.7. 
D7. 
G.3. 
C.4. 

r.D.4 

D.4. 

B.8. 
D4. 

c.s. 
a4. 

D.V 
U4 


r>0.  OramitfMlrtt/  C.2. 

HI.  BMdufM  RtvrrJfJf.  B  3. 

52.  /..wj7  TManiiR.  If  F  If. 

Ci  .1 W.  Afo/77>  JtEstif'Rlt  A.5. 

D.S.I f»4.  TmV  a. 6. 


:'7.  7r»/«iyy  C.7. 

n.diJiut/i.  C.7. 

VA.  Nrw  (lathedinl  C.l 

»«.  rww.y     .  D.4 

»I.  f*/<>^  C..t. 

:«.  .S^.  rA*ww  C.l. 

H5.  Tmnafigurafimi  G.3. 

S'l    Vf.A/iani  D2 

35.  IkmpltEmmimtl  C.2 

:»«•»,  .V.  Patdfllelki  D.3. 

37.  Jir„k(Frrj)  0.2. 

38.  .V  fjfvryefEpfsJ  D.4 
'MhAllSvuU/l/iatJ  D.4. 
48.  Mts8f4tk  «  C2. 
II.  UYiJ/nuffChitpins}  €.2. 
42.  .StBtlfaek  1)5 

HOTELS 

C.4. 


45.  ForlheSnilh  A.7. 

66.  6>/f/r«/  ly.JjJfJt  B.8. 
SQUARES. 

67.  WashiMflvit  <!.  J 
88.  Tompkins  K45. 

69.  riw#n  G4. 

70.  ifadtsm  C.3. 
STEAMERS. 


71.  7S»JBWy«Mi^JVWill|M^a7. 

72.  ,.AlbaiUf  B.A. 


13.  l^yyA  Avemui 
W  St.Kirlioias 


n.nt^jMf  F.8. 

1^.  VouH  Ht'Moe  F.8. 

75.  P«w/  (2^*r,  r.«. 

78.  TtercwitUe  LUtvri/  F.A. 

77.  A<«y.  ^'Musit        F.8. 
CHURCgES. 

78.  i%rm>  F.8. 

79.  PIffttumthfJinthtii/  U.8. 
W./bl^TrtHOf  F.8. 
81.5Aii/rif>  F.8. 
%t.0urSmvi9rmui:j    F.8. 


ut 


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MIDDLE-STATES  HANDBOOK. 


1.  New  York  City. 


K  :l 


Arrival  from  the  Sea.  —  The  American  coast  is  genemlly  flrst  sighted  at 
the  line  o  the  Nuvesink  Uighluiuls,  or  otf  Fire  Island  Light ;  and  the  vessel 
soon  passes  the  Sandy  HtM)k  tort  and  light-houses,  otT  which  tlie  outer  l>ar  is  crossed 
and  the  Lower  Bay  is  entered.  Tlie  sliores  of  Lon;.j  and  iStuten  Islands  approach  each 
other  on  the  N.  ;  Raritan  Bay  is  seen  opeiiiny  to  tlie  W.,  and  the  low  shores  or  Coney 
Island  are  on  the  r.  Tiie  quarantine  buildings  arc  t>assed  on  the  1.  The  steamer 
now  enters  the  Narrows,  with  ponderous  foi-tilicutiuns  on  eitlier  side,  —  Forts  Ham- 
ilton and  Lafayette  on  the  r.,  Forts  Riehmoud  and  Tonipkins  on  the  1.  Within 
this  embattled  gateway- from  tlie  sea  the  steamer  ascends  the  harbor,  witli  New 
York  and  Jersey  City  in  firont  and  Brooklyn  on  the  r.  Shii>8  of  war,  tall  India- 
men,  fleets  of  coasting  vessels,  the  unwieldy  I'eny-boats  and  swift  steam-tugs 
occupy  the  waters  ;  and  the  steamer  moves  up  slowly  to  her  pier  on  the  North 
River.  The  examination  of  baggage  by  the  custom-house  officers  is  always  con- 
ducted with  a  courtesy  and  lenity  proportioned  to  the  facilities  which  the  trav- 
eller affords  to  the  examining  officers.  Foreign  money  is  not  cui'rent  in  New 
York,  but  may  be  exchanged  at  the  offices  on  Wall  and  Broad  iSts.,  where  are  the 
banking-houses  which  cash  circular  notes  and  letters  of  credit. 

Arrival  by  the  Sound  Steamers.  —The  piers  (27,  23,  33,  and  40)  are  all  on  the 
North  or  Hudson  River,  between  Murray  aa<\  Watts  Sts.,  W.  of  Broadway.  The 
New  Haven,  Harlem,  and  Hudson  River  Railroads  terminate  iktthe  Grand  Central 
Depot,  whence  hoi'se-cars  and  st^es  depart  for  the  central  and  lower  parts  of  the 
city.  The  Erie,  Oswego  Midland,  Pennsylvania,  Delaware,  Lackawanna  and  West- 
em,  and  N.  J.  Central  Railroads  terminate  at  Jersey  City,  and  ferry-boats  leave 
for  N.  Y.  on  the  arrival  of  trains. 

Puggage.  —  Agents  of  the  express  and  transfer  companies  pass  through  the  trains 
as  they  approach  New  York,  exclaiming,  "  Checks  for  baggage."  If  the  traveller 
wishes  his  baggage  delivered  at  a  hotel,  residence,  or  another  railroad  station,  he 
surrenders  his  check  (v-tr  checks)  to  the  agent,  who  gives  a  receipt  therefor  and  writes 
the  address  in  his  booiL  The  express  company  then  becomes  responsible  for  the 
safe  delivery  of  the  baggie.  The  charge  for  delivering  1  piece  to  any  point  in  the 
city  below  60th  St.  is  40 -50c.  ;  to  Brooklyn,  50 -60c. ;  to  Jersey  City,  75c. ;  to 
Yorkville  and  Harlem,  $0.75-1.00.  Travellew  about  to  leave  New  York  or  Brook- 
lyn can  have  their  baggage  checked  from  their  house  or  hotel  to  its  ultimate  des- 
tination by  buying  their  railroad  tickets  and  leaving  their  orders  at  ttie  express 
office. 

Hotels. — The  *  Windsor,  a  new,  lofty,  and  elegant  house  on  upper  Fifth  Ave. 
(corner  of  46th  St ),  $  5  a  day ;  the  ♦  Fifth  Avenue,  a  vast  marble  building  oa 
Madison  Square,  $5  a  day;  the  *  St.  Nicholas,  a  marble  building  on  Broadway 
and  Spring  St.,  patronized  by  Western  men  ;  the  ♦Metropolitan,  a  stately  brown- 
stone  building  at  Broadway  and  Prince  St.,  visited  by  array  officers  and  railroad 
chiefs,  $4  a  day ;  the  Hoffman  House,  an  aristocratic  resort  on  Madison  Square, 
European  plan;  the  *  Grand  Central,  an  S-story  building  on  Broadway,  facing 
Bond  St.,  $  3  -  4  a  day.  The  *  Grand  Hotel  (corner  Broadway  and  31st  St. )  and  the 
Gilsey  House  (Broadway  and  29th  St.)  are  the  finest  European-plan  hotels  ia 
America.  These  immense  hotels  are  amply  supplied  vrith  all  the  luxuries  of  mod- ' 
em  American  civilization,  and  are  unexcelled  in  the  world.  The  St.  Cloud  is  a 
fine  up-town  hotel  at  Broadway  and  42d  St. ;  the  Grand  Union  (Park  Ave.  and 
41st  St.)  is  conveniently  situated  for  passengers  arriving  by  late  trains  firom  New 


6 


Jioute  1. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


England  nnd  the  North ;  the  Winchester  is  at  Broadway  and  Slst  St. ;  the  Sturte* 
vnnt  is  at  Broudwny  and  28th  8t.  The  MailborouKh  (t)th  Ave.  and  38tli  St.)  and 
tlie  Hotel  Royal  ((itli  Ave.  and  40th  at.)  are  quiet  hotels  on  the  \V.  side.  The 
Ashland,  Putnam,  and  Wasljingtou  are  inexpensive  houses  on  4tli  Ave.  above  2iJd 
St.  The  lofty  Stevens  House (IJroadway and  27th  St.),  the  Hotel  Brantiiiy  (Madi- 
son Ave.  and  58th  St. ),  the  Haight  Hou.su,  and  others  in  the  upper  part  of  the 
city,  are  hotels  garnis,  wiUi  expensive  suites  of  furnished  rooms.  On  and  near 
Madison  Square  are  also  the  St.  James,  Broadway  and  26th  St. ;  the  Coleman, 
Broadway  and  27tli  St.  ;  the  tlnely  situated  and  aristocratic  Hotel  Brunswick,  5th 
Ave.  and  2(ith  St. ;  the  Alliemurle,  Broadway  and  24th  St.  ;  the  o,.  Germain, 
Bro.adway  and  22d  St.  The  ♦  Rossmore  is  a  new  and  stately  house  (Broadway 
and  42d  St.);  the  *  Buckingham  is  a  superb  family  hotel,  ut  5th  Ave.  and  50th 
St.  ;  and  the  Oramerijy-Park  House  ha.s  a -400  boarders. 

On  and  near  Union  Square  are  the  Union  Place,  Hroadway  and  I4th  St.  ;  the 
Union  Square,  4th  Ave.  and  15th  St. ;  the  Westmoreland  and  the  *  Everett,  4th 
Ave.  and  17th  St.  ;  the  *  Clarendon  (patronized  by  English  tourists),  4th  Ave.  and 
18th  St. ;  the  *  Westminster,  a  tire-proof  building,  Irving  Place  and  Itith  St,  Eu- 
ropean plan ;  the  Belvedere,  Irving  Place  and  15th  St. ;  the  Spingler.  Fartlier 
down  Broadway  is  the  Irving  House,  corner  of  12th  St. ;  the  St.  Denis,  opposite 
Grace  Church,  frequented  by  foreign  tourists ;  and  several  neat  and  respectable 
hotels  on  the  European  plan.  The  Brevoort,  on  5th  Ave.  and  8th  St.,  is  much 
visited  by  Englishmen ;  the  Glenham  is  at  5th  Ave.  and  2uth  St.  (European);  the 
Sinclair  is  at  754  Broadway;  and  the  Prescott,  on  Broadway  and  Spring  St.,  is  a 
fine  house.    The  Brandreth  House,  at  Broadway  and  Canal  St.,  is  on  the  Euro- 

Sean  plan,  and  is  much  visited  by  merchants.  Earle's  Hotel,  corner  of  Canal  and 
entre  Sts.,  charges  $3  a  day. 

The  *  Astor  House  is  a  famous  old  European-plan  hotel,  opposite  the  new  Post- 
Offlce.  Near  the  City 'Hall  Park  are  French's,  Leggett's,  Sweeney's,  the  Park, 
and  the  Cosmopolitan.  In  Cortlandt  St..  farther  down  town,  are  the  Merchants', 
the  National,  and  French's  New  Hotel,  frequented  by  businessmen.  The  United 
States  is  a  large  hotel  near  tlie  Fulton  Ferry ;  and  the  Stevens  House  is  on  Broad- 
way, near  the  Battery.  Rooms  may  be  obtained  at  the  European-plan  hotels  at 
from  $  1  to  i$  3  a  day,  with  meals  d  la  carte  in  the  house  or  elsewhere.  The 
Grand,  Giisey,  and  others  of  the  more  elegant  houses,  charge  from  $2  a  day 
upward  for  a  bachelor's  room.  For  a  tourist  who  is  to  make  but  a  shoiii  visit  to 
New  York,  these  houses  will  be  found  more  convenient  than  those  on  the  Ameri- 
can plan.  There  are  about  150  other  hotels  of  ail  grades ;  and  in  the  uptown 
streets  are  many  comfortable  and  comparatively  inexpensive  boarding-houses 
(.■^8 -15  a  week). 

Begtaurants.  —  * Delmonico's,  comer  5th  Ave.  and  26th  St.,  the  best  in 
America  (h  iiti  branch  establisliments  down  town,  near  the  corner  of  Broadway 
and  Cedar  St;  2  S.  William  St.  and  on  Broad  near  Wall  St.);  the  *Caf6  Bruns- 
wick, famous  for  evening  dinners,  223  5th  Ave.  Parker's,  on'  Broadway  near  34th 
St.,  is  frequented  by  ladies  ;  also  Bigot's,  14th  St.,  near  Broadway  ;  Geyer's,  734 
and  736  Broadway,  is  a  large  and  favorite  restaurant ;  Solari,  corner  of  University 
Place  and  11th  St.,  prepares  elaborate  late  dinners.  lauch  (864  Broadway)  and 
Bergmai.  (corner  Broadway  and  27th  St.)  keep  ladies' restaurants,  which  are  much 
frequented  ;  Maillard  (621  Broadway)  is  famous  for  bonbons  and  chocolate  ;  Ar- 
naud  (815  Broadway)  keeps  line  French  candies ;  and  Purssell's  (910  Broadway^ 
\s  a  favorite  lunch-saloon  for  the  ui)-town  ladies.  Lucetti's  (1383  Broadway)  and 
Rudolph's  (162  and  411  Broadway)  are  attractive  ;  and  Martinelli  (49  3d  Av«.)  has 
the  Italian  cuisine,  and  is  visited  by  many  artists.  At  39  Park  Row,  Leggett's 
Hot«I,  14  Cortlandt  St.,  and  numerous  other  places  down  town,  are  large  eating- 
houses  for  merchants  and  clerks. 

The  caf6s  and  restaurants  attached  to  the  large  hotels  on  the  European  plan  are 
generally  well  kept,  and  are  much  visited  by  ladies.  The  Astor  House  has  one 
of  the  best  of  these.  Oysters  may  be  found  in  every  variety  in  the  small  saloons 
in  Fulton  Market  (the  "Saddle  Rocks"  of  Dorlon's  house  are  considered  the 
best).  New  England  dishes  are  served  at  Paysou's,  on  Cortlandt  near  Green- 
tvich  St 

Beading  Booms*  —  In  all  the  chief  hotels  (for  guests) ;  T.  M.  C.  Association, 
corner  4th  Ave.  and  23d  St,  also  at  85  Hudson  St,  473  Grand  St.,  and  285 
Bleecker  St.     Astor  Library,  Lafayette  Place,  open  9i  -  5 ;  City  Library,  City 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Route  2. 


Hall,  open  free  to  all,  10- 4 ;  •Cooper  Institute,  corner  4th  Ave.  and  7tti  St,  open 
from  S  A.  M.  to  10  P.  M.  ;  Woniaii'a  Library,  open  0-4  (#1.50  a  year). 

Post-OtHce,  corner  Park  Row  and  Broadway, open  continuoiiHly  exce)>t  Sun- 
days, when  it  IS  open  only  between  9  and  11a.m.  There  arc  also  20  »ub  pout*  iflleea 
in  the  city,  called  "  HtationH,"  and  alphalwtically  dHsi^nated.  Letters  may  be 
mailed  in  the  lanip-pOHt  Im)xcs  (of  whicii  there  are  700),  whence  they  are  collected 
9  times  daily  by  the  gray-uniformed  letter-carriers. 

Baths  are  found  in  all  the  large  hotels ;  N.  Y.  Turkish  Bath  establishment,  13 
Laight  at,  near  St.  John's  Park;  Turkish  Baths  also  at  89-41  W.  26th  St.: 
Russian  vapor-batiis  at  25  E  ',h  8i.  and  on  W.  24th  St  ;  Turkish,  Sun,  and 
Electric  baths,  corner  Lexington  Ave.  and  25th  St.  Turko-Russian  and  other 
varieties  of  baths  are  given  at  the  Gibson  Building,  13th  St  uud  Broadway,  with 
luxuriou.^  and  costly  equipments  and  appointments. 

Conguls.— Great  Britain,  17  Broadway;  France,  4  Bowling  Green  ;  German 
Empire,  2  Bowling  Green  ;  Austria.  83  Broadway;  Russia,  62  Exchauge  PL  ;  Italy, 
7  Broadway:  Spain,  29  Broadway;  Brazil,  13  Broadway. 

Theatres.  —  Tlie  ♦Academy  of  Music  (E.  14th  St.,  near  Union  Square),  with, 
a  brilliunt  auditorium  decorated  in  crimson  and  gold,  —  the  home  of  the  Italian 
opera  in  New  York ;  •  Wallack's  (Broadway,  near  13th  St ),  with  a  well-adapted 
stock  company,  devoted  principally  to  legitimate  comedy  :  *  Booth's  (23d  St ,  near 
6th  Ave.),  the  most  elegant  theatre  in  America,  chiefly  used  forstandard  tragedy: 
the  *  Grand  Opera  House  (c;orner  of  8th  Ave.  and  2od  St),  a  superb  hall,  devoted 
to  dramatic  and  spectacular  representations.  Dtdy's  Fifth  Avenue  (28th  St ,  near 
5th  Ave.)  and  the  Union  Square  (14th  St.,  near  Broadway)  are  small,  but  elej^ant 
and  ashiOuable  theatres.  Niblo's  Garden  (Broadway,  near  i^ince  St.)  exhibits 
brilliant  spectacular  plays  ;  the  Olympic  (Broadway,  near  Houston  St )  is  a  vaude- 
ville and  novelties  theatre;  Wood's  Museum  (Bi'oadway  and  80th  St );  the  newr 
Lyceum  Theatre.  The  theatre  audiences  at  the  Saturday  matinees  are  mostly 
^  composed  of  ladies,  who  go  in  walking-dress  and  without  escort 
«.  )  The  Eagle  Theatre  is  devoted  to  varieties  and  miscellaneous  entertainments  (at 

Broadway  and  82d  St.).  The  Lyceum  Theatre  (6th  Ave.  and  14th  St)  gives  opera 
boull'e  and  French  plays.  The  Germania  is  in  Tammany  Hall  (E.  14th  St.)  and 
exhibits  German  dramas.  The  Park  Theatre  is  nn  Broadway,  near  21st  St  ;  the 
Globe  is  on  Broadway,  near  Astor  Place;  and  the  Tivoli  is  on  8th  St.,  between 
2d  and  3d  Aves.  The  San  Francisco  Minstrels  exhibit  at  Broadway  and  29th  St 
Gilmore's  concei*ts  are  to  be  held  also  in  the  Hippodrome  (4th  Ave.  and  26th 
St\ 

The  Bowerj'  and  the  Stadt  Theatres  are  nearly  opposite  each  other  (on  the  Bow- 
er}', between  Bayard  and  Canal  Sts.),  and  produce  German  plays  and  operas. 
There  are  several  respectable  minor  theatres  on  Broadway  and  near  Union  Square. 
The  Itest  negro  minstrel  entertainments  are  at  the  Twenty-Third  St  Theatre,  and 
at  Tony  Pastor's  Opera  House  (585  Broadway). 

Amusements.  —  Clmsic  nt'u.iiic,  oratorios,  and  concerts  are  given  in  Steinway 
Ball  (litli  bt,  near  Union  Square)  and  the  new  Chickering  Hall  (iith  Ave.  and 
18th  St).  Fine  military  and  v/altz  music  is  rendered  by  Gilmore's  Band,  at 
the  armory  of  the  22d  Regiment  (14th  St  and  6th  Ave.).  During  the  summer 
orchestral  music  of  the  highest  order  (conducted  hitherto  by  Theodore  Thomas) 
is  given  at  the  Central  Park  Garden  (corner  7th  Ave.  and  59th  St ;  admission, 
60c.).  The  Atlantic  Garden  adjoins  the  Bowery  Theatre,  and  is  a  great  hall 
-where,  at  evening,  2-3,000  Germans  drink  beer  and  smoke  pipes  with  tlieir 
families,  and  listen  to  well-executed  vocal  and  orchestral  nmsic.  There  are 
numerous  other  beer-gardens,  of  lower  grades,  in  the  Bowery ;  and  in  the  upper 
part  of  the  city,  near  the  rivers,  are  large  concert-groves,  where  the  Germans 
flock  in  crowds  during  the  summer.  The  music  is  generally  good  ;  but  the  beer 
of  New  York  is  very  inferior  in  quality.  The  cellar  concert-saloons  on  Broadway 
and  elsewhere  should  be  carefally  avoided,  for  they  are  both  disreputable  and 
dangerous,  and  many  a  stranger  has  there  been  deprived  of  money  and  honor  and 
even  of  life. 

Lectures  on  various  subjects,  and  public  readings,  at  Chickering  Hall,  Stein- 
way Hall.  Association  Hall  (4th  Ave.  and  23d  St),  .ipoUo  Hall,  and  Cooper  Insti- 
tute (4th  Ave.  and  8th  St).  The  great  popular  meetings  relative  to  social  or 
political  issues  are  generally  held  at  the  Cooper  Institute.  The  Pilgrim,  an  allo- 
gory,  is  shown  at  Bain  Hall,  on  Lafayette  Place. 

1* 


8 


Route  1. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


JfttMumx.-- The*  Metropolitan  Museum,  Central  Park,  near  89d  Street,  has, 
besides  a  large  picture-galiery,  tlio  Cesuola  Collection  of  Egyptian,  Oreek,  ami  Phoe< 
nician  antiiiuities  from  the  buried  cities  of  Cyprus  ;  modern  statuary  ;  articles  of 
vertu  :  and  mediaeval  MU8.  and  curiosities  fopeu  on  Mondays  free  ;  on  other  days 
2&C.  admission).  The  American  Museum  ot  Natural  History,  at  the  Central  Park 
j[5th  Ave.  and  64th  8t.),  has  large  collections  of  stutTcd  birds  and  animals,  minerals, 
Tossils,  etc.  :  and  a  zoological  garden  containing  many  rare  animals  and  birds  (ad- 
mission f^ee,  excei)t  on  Monday  and  Tuesday,  when  tickets  may  be  obtained  at 
the  office  of  the  Department  of  Public  Parks,  86  Union  Square).  The  N.  Y.  His- 
torical Society  (corner  of  2d  Ave.  and  11th  St.)  has  a  valuable  picture-gallery,  and 
collections  of  Assvrian,  F'j^  ptian,  and  American  antiquities.  The  Lyceum  of  Nat- 
ural History  {\Wi  £'..,  near  4th  Ave.)  is  open  to  the  public.  Wood's  Museum 
(Broadwav  ana  30th  St.)  contains  many  of  the  old  collections  of  Barnuni's  Mu- 
seum, and  may  be  seen  on  the  payment  of  a  small  entrance-fee.  The  Anatomical 
Museum,  and  other  special  collections  on  Broadway,  arc  of  interest  to  students. 

Athletic  Sports.  —  Horse-races  at  Jerome  Park,  the  most  aristocratic  race-course 
in  America,  largely  attended  by  the  ilite  of  New  York.  It  is  reached  by  the  Har- 
lem K.  R.,  and  is  1^  M.  from  Fordham.  Also  at  Fleetwood  Park,  ^  M.  beyond 
Macomb's  Dam  Bridge,  on  the  Harlem  River ;  and  at  tlie  Prospect  Park  and 
Deerfoot  tracks,  near  Brooklyn,  and  reached  by  horse-cars  trom  Fulton  Ferry. 
Base-ball  at  the  Capitoline  and  the  Union  grounds  in  Brooklyn,  reached  by  horse- 
cars  from  Fulton  Ferry  (the  Union  grounds  are  also  gained  from  the  Roosevelt 
St.  Ferry).  Thousands  of  spectators  witness  the  exciting  match-games  between 
the  professional  clubs.  Cricket  is  often  played  on  the  Capitoline  grounds.  Scot- 
tish games  are  celebmted.  at  Jones's  Wood  and  other  suburban  groves.  Skating 
is  a  popular  winter  amusement,  and  its  favorite  localities  are  the  lakes  in  Central 
Park  and  Prospect  Park  (Brooklyn).  When  tlie  ice  is  firm  and  sm<M)th  enough  to 
allow  of  skating,  the  horse-cars  that  run  from  the  lower  parts  of  the  cities  to  the 
Parks  bear  a  small  white  Hag  on  which  a  colored  ball  is  depicted.  Skates  may  be 
hired  at  the  rustic  cottages  near  the  lakes.  The  regattas,  annual  and  special,  of 
the  yacht-clubs  are  generally  held  in  the  Lower  Bay,  and  are  fUU  of  intei*est  to 
those  who  like  aquatic  sports.  Rifle-practice  is  done  by  the  volunteer  troops  at 
the  new  Creedmoor  Range,   on   Long  Island  (on  the  Central  R  R.  of  L.  I.). 

Art  Collections. —  *  Metropolitan  Museum,  in  the  Central  Park,  open 
Mondays  fhje,  other  days  25c. ;  •Academy  of  Design,  23d  St.  and  4th  Ave.,  en- 
trance, 25c. ;  Gallery  of  the  N.  Y.  Historical  Society,  2d  Ave.  and  11th  St.  There 
are  usually  many  fine  pictures  in  the  sales-galleries  of  Goupil,  5th  Ave.  and  22d 
St.  ;  Avery,  6th  Ave.,  opposite  Delmonico's  (very  elegant  cabinets)  ;  Schaus,  749 
Broadway ;  Leavitt  Art  Rooms,  817  Broadway ;  Somerville  Art  Gallery,  82  5th 
Ave. ;  and  Snedicor,  1<0  5th  Ave.  There  are  many  artists'  studios  in  the 
Y.  M.  C.  A.  building,  4th  Ave.  and  23d  St. ;  the  Kurtz  Art  Building,  on  Madison 
Ave.  (headquarters  of  "  The  Palette  "  Club) ;  the  University,  Washin^n  Square  : 
the  Somerville  Building,  5th  Ave.  and  14th  St. :  and  the  Studio  Building,  51  W. 
10th  St.  There  are  several  large  and  valuable  private  galleries,  which  are  open 
only  to  persons  who  are  properly  accredited  and  introduced.  The  usual  mode  of 
securing  an  entrance  to  these  galleries  is  by  sending  a  letter  (with  caixl  enclosed)  to 
their  owners.    The  best  private  galleries  are  those  of  A.  T. 

Stewart,  M.  O:  Roberts,  John  Hoey,  James  Lenox,  Lucius  Tuckerman,  Robert  L. 
Stewart,  and  John  Wolfe  (who  has  Bougereau's  masterpiece). 

Festivals.  —  New  Year's  Day  is  the  greatest  day  of  the  New  York  calendar, 
and  the  ladies  of  the  middle  and  upper  classes  then  hold  elaborate  receptions. 
The  church  festivals,  Christmas,  the  Carnival  season,  and  others,  are  growing  in 
importance  and  universality  of  observance.  Thanksgiving  Day  (late  in  Novemlier) 
is  a  Puritan  exotic,  and  is  marked  here  by  fine  dinners  and  family  reunions.  The 
great  religious  societies  hold  their  annual  reunions  in  May,  and  they  are  largely 
attended  by  Christians  ft-om  all  over  the  country.  The  1st  of  May  is  a  noisy,  bus- 
tling, and  ill-tempered  day  in  New  York,  for  it  is  the  great  moving-day,  when  many 
thousands  change  their  domiciles.  Evacuation  Day  (Nov.  25th^  commemorates 
the  departure  of  the  British  army  in  1783,  and  is  usually  celebrated  by  a  parade. 
The  national  festivals,  the  Fourth  of  July  and  Washington's  Birthday  (Feb.  22d), 
are  devoted  to  military  displays,  and  the  former  is  made  noisy  by  artillery  salutes 
and  fireworks.  Decoration  Day  (May  30th)  is  observed  by  the  relatives  and  com- 
xades  of  the  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  Secession  War.    The  thousands  of  soldiers' 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Route  1. 


9 


grave.'^  in  the  cemeteries  arotind  the  citvare  visited  and  adorned  with  flowers  amid 
iiiipressive  ceremonies.  Ht.  Patrick's  Day  and  tlie  Battle  of  tlie  Boviie  are  com- 
ni«niorated  by  great  procesHions  of  Irishmen,  sometimes  tenuinating  in  wide- 
spread and  fatal  riots. 

Churciiea.  —  Tlie  Snnday  services  most  visited  by  strangers  are  those  of 
Trinity  Church  (Broadway,  facing  Wail  St.).  with  its  cathedral  choral  service  and 
anthems :  Christ  Church  (5th  Ave.  and  .3r)th  St.  ;  richly  ornamented),  and  St 
All)an8  (Lexington  Ave.  and  47th  St. ),  rltuttiistic  service-s ;  Ascension  (rjth  Ave. 
and  10th  St.);  St.  George  (E.  10th  St ),  iow-church  Episcopalian.  Tlic  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  Patrlcii  is  at  the  corner  of  Motl  and  Prince  Sts.  ;  and 
St.  Stephen's  (149  B.  28th  St.)  is  famed  for  its  impressive  nmsical  services.  The 
Presbyterian  churches  of  Dr.  John  Hall  (5th  Ave.  and  bbiXx  St)  and  the  Bricic 
CImrch  (5th  Ave.  and  37th  St.)  are  largely  attended;  olso  the  Congregational 
Tabernacle  (Broadway  and  .H4th  St.):  the  Methodist  Cluirch  of  St  Paul  (4tl»  Ave. 
and  22d  St.);  tlie  Reformed  Dutch  Collegiate  Church  (Lafayette  Placre);  the  Uni- 
tarian Churches  of  All  Souls  (Dr.  Bellows;  4th  Ave.  and  20tli  St)  and  of  the 
Messiah  (Parle  Ave.  and  34th  St);  tlie  Unlversalist  Churcli  of  the  Divine  Pater- 
nity (Dr.  Cliapln;  5th  Ave.  and  45th  St),  and  Our  Saviour  (57th,  near  8th  Ave.); 
the  Swedenborgian  (Rev.  Chauncey  Giles;  114  E.  35th  St);  ti»e  Churcli  of  the  Dis- 
ciples (Rev.  ;  Madison  Ave.  and  45th  St ) ;  tlie  Moravian  (Lexing- 
ton Ave.  .and  30th  St);  the  Church  of  the  Strangers  (Dr.  Deems;  Waverley  Placet; 
and  the  Russo-Greelc  Church  (2d  Ave.,  near  50th  St).  The  Sabbath  (Saturday) 
services  of  the  Jewish  Temple  Emanuel  are  remarkable  and  Impressive.  The  news- 
papers on  Saturdays  give  Hats  of  the  time,  location,  and  character  of  the  principal 
sei-vices  of  the  enauing  Sunday.  In  Brooklyn  are  the  churches  of  Henry  Ward 
Beedier  (Orange  St,  near  Hicks> ;  De  Witt  Talmage  (Schermerhorn  St,  near  Ke- 
vins) ;  St.  Ann-on-the-Heiglits  (Dr  Schenck ;  Clinton  St);  Holy  Trinity  (with 
flue  music  ;  corner  Clinton  and  Montague  Sts.) ;  Dr.  Cuyler  (Lafayette  Ave.  and 
Oxford) ;  the  Pilgrims  (Dr.  Storrs  ;  Remsen  and  Henry  Sts.) ;  Dr.  Sciulder  (Han- 
cock St. ,  near  Fulton  Ave. ) ;  the  Cllnton-Ave.  Congregational  (late  Dr.  Budlng- 
ton's):  theClasson-Ave.  Presbyterian  (late  Dr.  Duryeu's) ;  Hanson-Place  Baptist ; 
Dr.  Putnam's  (Unitarian  ;  Pierrepont  St.). 

Car-Plages.  —  For  1  passeiiKcr  for  a  distance  of  1  M.  or  less^  8 1 ;  2  nas- 
8enger.s  !jii.50.  In  1876  the  Aldermen  passed  a  shameful  law  (over  the  May- 
or's veto)  allowing  hackmen  to  charge  i^  1  per  mile  for  passengers  taken  from 
tlie  depots  or  piers.  No  extra  charge  is  allowed  for  1  trunk,  box,  or  valise  ; 
cliildren  between  2  and  14  years  of  age  pay  half  price.  A  tarifT  of  fares  la 
(or  should  be)  hung  In  every  carriage,  but  the  drivers  frequently  attempt 
to  extort  undue  sums  from  their  passengera.  In  such  cases,  since  the  hack- 
men  of  New  York  are  the  most  ruffianly  of  their  class  In  the  world,  an  instant 
appeal  should  be  made  to  the  first  policeman  who  may  be  seen.  Questions  of 
disagreement  as  to  distance,  time,  or  price  must  be  settled  at  the  Mayor's  of- 
fice (City  Hall).  The  principal  hotels  have  carriages  In  waiting,  by  which  trav- 
ellers may  be  conveyed  to  various  points  at  prices  designated  on  cards  that 
are  displayed  in  the  hotel  offices  (the  rates  are  hi -her  than  those  of  the  public 
carriages). 

Omnibuses  (called  "stages")  (1)  ft^m  Fulton  Perry,  by  Fulton  St,  Broadway, 
University  Place,  13th  St.,  and  5th  Ave.,  to  42d St.,  returning  over  tHe  same  route  ; 
(2)  from  South  Ferry,  by  Broadway,  23d  St.,  and  9th  Ave.,  to  30th  St ,  returning  tlie 
same  way ;  (3)  from  South  Ferry,  by  Broadway  and  4th  Ave.,  to  32d  St  :  (4)  from 
South  Ferry,  by  Broadway  and  14th  St  to  Avenue  A  ;  (5)  from  South  Ferry,  by 
Broadway,  to  the  Erie  Railway  Ferry  on  23d  St  ;  (6)  from  Wall  St.  Ferry,  by  Wall, 
Broadway,  23d,  and  Madison  Ave.,  to  40th  St. ;  (7)  flrom  Jersey  City  Ferry  (Cort- 
landt  St)  by  Broadway,  Bleecker  St.,  Bowery,  and  2d  St  to  Hous'.on  St.  Ferry. 
The  omnibuses  are  cleaner  and  less  crowded  than  the  horse-cars,  ai  id  are  used  by 
.a  better  class  of  people.    The  fare  (usually  10c.)  is  posted  up  inside. 

Horse-Cars.  — The  fare  on  most  of  the  lines  is  5c.  (1)  Astor  House  to 
Central  Park,  by  Barclay,  Church,  and  Greene  Sts.  and  7th  Ave.  ;  (2)  Astor  House 
to  Central  Park,  by  Vesey,  W.  Broadway,  Varick,  and  6th  Ave.  ;  (3)  Astor  House 
to  Central  Park,  by  Canal  and  Hudson  Sts.,  and  8th  Ave.  ;  (4)  Astor  House  to 
Manhattanville,  by  Vesey,  Church,  W.  Broadway,  and  8th  Ave. ;  (5)  Astor  House 
to  Hunter's  Point  Ferry,  by  Park  Row,  Centre,  Grand,  Bowery,  4th  Ave.,  32d,  and 
84th  Sts. :  (6)  Astor  House  to  34th  St  Ferry,  by  Chatham  St,  £.  Broadway, 


10      Route  J. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Avenuct  Band  A.  and  lit  Ave.  ;  (7)  Aitor  Hnnse  to  flOtli  St.,  by  Centre,  Bow* 
ery,  4th,  and  MudiHon  Aveu.  ;  (8)  curnur  UriMulwiiv  nnd  Canal  Hi.  tu  4ad  St.,  by 
Vurii'k  tit.  and  Uth  Ave.  ;  (tt)  corner  llroadway  and  Canal  tit.  to  Central  Pork,  by 
Canal,  HudHon,  and  Nth  Ave.  ;  Ho)  rorner  Broadway  and  Ann  Ht.  throngh  Chatham. 
E.  Uroadway,  AvenncH  Hand  A  :  (11) corner  Broadway  and  Brnonio  Ht.  tu  Centrnl 
Fark,  by  7th  Ave.  ;  (12)  corner  Broadway  ond  Knlton  to&4th8t..  by  Uroenwich  Ht. 
and  0th  Ave.  ;  (13)  Teck  Ulip  to  Harlem  (12Hth  Hi.),  by  Oliver  Ut..  Bowery,  and 
2d  Ave.  ;  (1^)  Honth  Ferry  to  Central  Tark,  by  WoHt  Ht.anU  10th  Ave.;  (1&^  Huuth 
Ferry  to  Central  Park,  by  the  lOast  Uiver  FcrrieH,  iHt  Ave.,  and  bOth  tit.;  (10) 
Fnlton  Kerry  to  lOth  Ave.,  by  Centre  and  Bk-ccker  StM.  ;  (17)  Grand  8t.  Ferry  to 
DeHbroHHeH  tit.  Ferry,  by  Grand  and  Ve.Htrv  8tH.  ;  (18)  Grand  Ht.  Ferry  to  Cortlandt 
St.  Ferry;  (ll>)  Grand  Ht.  Ferry  to  4'2d  8t.  (Weehawken)  Ferry;  (20)  corner  of 
Chambers  and  Went  Utd.  to  Grand  Central  Depot.  The  EUvatul  Itailwun  r\UM  ttom 
tiie  Buttery  to  59th  tit.,  on  Greenwich  8t.  and  0th  Ave.  i'nu  trauK  hi  NU|i|iurted 
by  iron  pillarH;  the  earn  are  Inxnriouu.  and  are  drawn  by  eniall  locomoilves ;  and 
the  stationH  are  at  Liberty,  Fraakiin,  Canal,  Uou8U)n,  12th,  21st,  80th,  S4th,  420, 
and  6»th  Bta. 

Ferries.— To  Astoria,  fh>m  02d  St.,  and  from  Peck  Slip;  to  DlackweU's 
Island,  from  foot  of  20th  tit.  E.  R.  (fare,  20c.)l  To  Lonu  Island  City  (Uiniter's 
Point),  from  James  Slip,  hnlf-honrly  (fare,  Oc.),  and  fi-om  foot  of  34th  8t.,  every  7 
ndnutes.  To  Brooklyn,  Irom  foot  of  10th  and  of  23il  St.  to  Greenpoint ;  twin  Ilous* 
ton  St.  to  Grand  St.  (Willinmsburg) ;  from  Grand  St.,  N.  Y.,  to  Grand  St.  and  S.  7th 
8t.  ;  from  UcMtsevelt  St.  to  S.  7th  St. ;  from  Jackson  St.  to  Hudson  St.  (Navy- 
Yanl) :  from  Catluirine  St.  to  Main  St.  ;  from  Fnlton  St.,  N.  Y..  to  Fulton  St.  (the 
most  hnuurtant  of  the  ferries) ;  from  Wall  St.  to  Montauue  St.  ;  fhim  Whitehall 
St.  to  Atlantic  Ave  ;  from  Whitehall  to  Hamilton  Ave.  To  Bay  RidKe,  from  foot 
of  Wall  St..  8-10  times  daily  (fare,  15c.).  To  Staten  Island,  boats  by  either  Una 
hourly ;  from  Whitehall  St.  to  Tompklnsvillc,  Stapletim,  and  Vanderbilt's  Loud* 
ing  (faro,  10c.) ;  from  Pier  10,  N.  R.  (near  Cortlandt  St.)  to  New  Brighton,  SailoiV 
Snug  Harbor.  W.  Brighton,  Port  Richmond,  and  Elm  Park  (fare,  12c.).  To  Jersey 
City,  from  Liberty  St.  to  N.  J.  Central  R.  R.,  every  20  ndnutes ;  from  Cortlandt 
St.  to  Montgomery  St.  (and  tenninus  of  R.  R.  to  Philadelphia  and  the  South) ; 
from  Desbrossos  St.  to  Montgomeiy  St.  ;  fr*om  Chambers  and  from  23d  Sts.  to 
Long  Dock  or  Pavoina  (Erie  R.  R.  terminus).  To  Hoboken,  from  foot  of  Barclay 
St.  and  foot  of  Christopher  St.  ;  to  Bull's  Ferry  and  Fort  Lee,  from  Pier  43  (fai-e, 
16c.)  ;  froni  foot  of  42d  St.  to  Weehawken,  every  40  minutes  (fai-e,  12c.).  There 
are  lU  ferry  lines  in  the  E.  River  and  10  in  the  N.  River,  carrying  85,000,000  pas« 
sengers  annually,  and  making  a  net  urotlt  of  over  1^1,000,000. 

Railroads.  —  On  Long  Island,  tlie  South  Side  R.  R.  to  Islip  and-  Patchogue, 
by  ferries  fi'om  foot  of  Roosevelt  and  Grr.nd  Sts.  to  the  station  at  Williamsburg 
(see  Route  4) ;  the  Long  Island  R.  R.  to  Sag  Harbor  and  Greenport,  by  ferries 
from  James  Slip  and  34th  St.  to  the  station  at  Hunter's  Point  (Route  5) ;  the 
Flushing  &  North  tide  R.  R.  by  ferry  fr'om  Jumes  Slip  to  the  station  at  Hunter's 
Point.    To  Boston  by  New  Haven  and  Springlleld,  or  by  the  Shore  Line  (see  Os- 

?;ood's  New  England),  fr'om  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  4th  Ave.  and  42d  St.  ;  to 
Chatham,  Allmny,  and  Rutland,  by  the  Ilarlcm  R.  R. ,  from  the  Grand  Central 
Depot ;  to  Albany  and  the  N.  and  W.,  by  the  N.  Y.  Central  and  Hudson  River  R. 
R.,  from  the  Orand  Central  Depot.  To  Oswego,  by  the  Midland  R.  R.,  by  ferries 
fh)n)  Coillandt  and  Desbrosses  Sts.  to  the  station  in  Jersey  City ;  to  Buffalo 
and  the  W.,  by  the  Erie  Railway  from  foot  of  Chambers  and  of  23d  Sts.  to  station 
in  Jersey  City ;  to  Easton,  by  tlie  Delaware,  Lackawanna   and  Western  R.  R. 

i Morris  &  Essex),  by-  ferries  from  Barclay  and  Christopher  Sts.  ;  to  Easton  and 
he  W.  by  the  N.  J.  Central  R.  R.,  by  ferry  from  the  foot  of  Liberty  St.  ;  to  Phil- 
adelphia,  Baltimore,  and  Washington,  by  the  Penn.  R.  R.,  by  ferries  from  the  foe 
of  Desbrosses  and  of  Cortlandt  Sts.  ;  to  Long  Branch  and  the  N.  J.  coast  by  the 
N.  J.  Southern  R.  R.,  by  steamers  froni  Pier  8,  N.  R.  to  Sandy  Hook ;  to  Newark, 
by  ferry  from  the  foot  of  Liberty  St.  To  the  Staten  Island  R.  R.,  by  ferry  firom 
Whitehall. 

Steamships.  —  Tramatlantie  lines — for  Queenstown  and  LiveP()ool,  the  Ca- 
nard (fares,  ;^130,  $100,  880,  and  $80)  and  White  Star  linef.,  3  vessels  weekly  A'oni 
Jersey  City,  cabin  fare  $80  gold,  steer^  $83  ;  Inman  Line,  Pier  45,  N.  R.,  cabin 
$75  gold,  steerage  $28 ;  Liverpool  and  Great  Western,  Pier  46,  N.  R.,  fares  $80 
and  $30 ;  National  Line,  Pier  47,  N.  B.,  fai-es  $75,  $65,  and  $28.    For  Glasgow, 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


nouU  1.       11 


Anchor  Line,  Pier  20,  N.  R..  (kreii  •  7&,  A  65.  and  i,  .8.  For  London,  Piem  44  and 
f)'2  ami  3,  N.  R.  For  Ut'liiist  and  (JIuhkow,  HUite  \Mw,  IMcr  87,  N.  U.  K«»r  Iluvre, 
(Ip'ii  Tr(iii»ttMntitl(!  Co..  I'Ur  TmJ,  N.  It,  f  ipih  9  l'2r»  hikI  m:>.  Ft>r  IIiiiiitMir»(,  Ilnin- 
burK-Aiiu'rlcaii  Lino,  llolxiki'ii,  fim-H  «■  120,  $7'-'.  »:iO  ;  KiikIo  Mii«,  llolxtkmi  (to 
IMyiiioiitli,  Cli"rl>om>:.  nml  liHinbur.'V  For  Hoiithiuiiptoii  and  llrnnirn,  N.  fl«r- 
nmn  l.loydii,  Uu»M»k«n,  farnH  «  120,  #72,  $40.  For  !St«!ttin,  Ujiltlr;  LloydH.  I'inr  13, 
N.  II.,  fiiifit  ))H0  and  !if  :iO  ;  for  Atitw^rp  ;  for  tlio  Medtturranouii  |K>rU.  Wut  liullan 
linen  -for  Havana.  AtlantU;  Mall  Line,  every  Thuriwlay,  from  Pier  4.  N.  H..  fare 
$70  (to  NaHHan.  $50);  for  Havana  and  Vera  Cnii,  every  ten  dayn,  from  Pier  U.  N. 
IL,  f.iro  $05,  to  Vera  Cruz,  $  l(K)  k*)1<I  ;  f«>r  Bermuda,  from  Pier  »,  E.  11.,  fare  $30. 
For  Ht.  TlionmH  and  Brazil,  from  Pier  :»3,  N.  R.,  the  2M  of  eadi  month  ;  to  8t. 
Tliomax  $100,  Para  $150,  Hlo  Janeiro  $225.      From  I'ler  4'i,  N.  R.,  the  l'u«;lllc 


ltd,  HictiraKu  $25,  to  UnlveHtoii,  $05  and  $35.  For  New  Orloanv,  Menthanta' 
Line,  I'icr  12,  N.  R.,  every  Saturday  at  3  ;  Cromwell  Lino,  every  Saturday,  from 
Pier  0.  E.  R.  :  Southcni  Line.  Pier  21.  E.  R. ;  fares  on  either  lino,  cabin  $50, 
Bteeraye$25.  For  Fernandina  and  the  Fl(»rlda  itorts.  from  I'ler  2».  N.  R.  For 
Savannah,  Atlantic  r.lne,  ThurHdaya,  Pier  'M.  N.  R.  :  Black  Star  Lino,  Haturdaya, 
Pier  13,  N.  R.  ;  Empire  Line,  Saturdaya,  Pier  8,  N.  R.  ;  Murray'*  Line,  Tliure- 
days  (3  F.  M.),  Pier  10.  E.  R. ;  farea  on  either  lino,  (;ahln  $20,  steerage  $  10.  For 
Cliarlc8tf»n,  Pier  5.  N.  R..  Tucs..  Thura.,  and  Sat.  at  3  p.  m.,  fares  $20  and  $12 ; 
for  Norfolk  ($10)  and  Richmond  ($12),  from  Pier  37,  N.  R.,  Tues.,  Thura..  and 
Bat. ;  fur  Nowbern,  trl-monthly.  Pier  10.  E.  R. ;  for  WaHhin^ton  and  Alexandria, 
Bcml-weokly,  Pier  20,  E.  R.  ;  lor  Philadelphia,  triweekly.  Piers  33  and  34,  E.  R. ; 
for  New  Bedford,  semi-weekly,  Pier  13,  E  R. :  lor  Boston  (outaide).  Pier  14,  N. 
R.  ;  for  Portland.  Homl-weokly,  Pier  38,  E.  R. 

Coastwise  and  rioer  lUies.  —  The  Iludaon  —  Day  boats  leave  Pier  39,  N.  R.,  at 
8.30  A.  M.,  for  Yonkcra,  Tarrytown.  West  Point.  Cornwall.  Nowburgh,  Poughkeep« 
ale,  Rhlncbeck,  Catsklll.  Hudson,  Tlvoll,  Albany,  and  Tniy  (fare,  $2  ;  meals  ex* 
tra)  ;  the  evening  boats  for  Albany  and  Troy  leave  Piera  41,  43,  and  44,  N.  R.  at 
0  P.  M.  (Saturdays  excepted).  The  Mary  Powell  leaves  Pier  30,  N.  R,,  at  3.  .SO 
p.  M.,  for  Cozzens',  West  Pomt.  Cornwall.  Newburgh.  Milton.  Poughkeepsle,  and 
Rondout.  The  Chrystenah  leaves  Pier  31.  N.  R.  at  3  45  p.  m.,  for  Yonkers.  Irv- 
inyton.  Tarrytown.  Nyack,  Grassy  and  Verplanck'a  Points.  Steamers  from  Pier 
34,  N.  R.  at  4  p.  M.,  to  Cozzens',  Cornwall,  Nowburgh,  Poughkeepsie,  and  Esopus  : 
and  Irom  Pier  43,  N.  R.  at  4.30  p.  m.,  to  Cold  Spring,  Cornwall,  Haverstraw, 
Newburgh,  and  New  Hamburg.  Other  river  boats  leave  Piers  34,  35,  49, 
and  61,  N.  R.  dally. —  r/w  harbor  and  East  River  —  to  Bergen  Point.  Mari< 
ner's  Harbor,  and  Ellzal>ethport  at  11  a.  m.  and  4.30  P.  m.,  from  Pier  14,  N. 
R.  (fare,  20c.):  to  Key  port,  N.  J„  dally  at  4  p.  M.ft-om  Pier  20.  N.  R. ;  to 
Long  Branch.  4  times  dady  (In  summer)  from  Pior  8.  N.  R.  ;  to  Perth  Amboyand 
landings  on  Staten  Island  Sound,  daily  at  3  p.  M.,  from  Pier  13,  N.  R.  ;  to  New- 
ark from  Pier  20,  N.  R.,  at  10.30  and  4.80  ;  to  Red  Bank  and  the  N.  J.  Highlands, 
daily,  from  Pier  35,  N.  R. ;  to  S.  Amboy  ;  to  Staten  Island,  hourly,  ftom  White- 
hall and  Pier  19,  N.  R. ;  to  Bay  Ridge  fi-om  Wall  St.  Ferry  ;  to  Coney  Island  from 
Pier  1,  E.  R.,  at  9,  12,  and  3  o'clock  ;  to  Astoria  and  Harlem,  10  trips  daily 
from  Peck  Slip ;  to  Morrlsania  and  Harlem,  9  trips  dally,  fnnn  Pier  22,  E.  R. 
Lonft  Island  Sound  — to  Flushing.  College  Point,  and  Unlonport,  from  Pier 
22,  E.  R.  :  to  Glen  Cove,  Glenwood,  Great  Neck.  Whitestone,  Sand's  Point,  and 
Roslyn,  f^om  Pier  24,  E.  R.,  at  4  p.  m.  ;  to  Glen  Cove,  Sands'  Point,  Whitestone, 
Sea  Cliir,  and  Great  Neck,  from  Pier  20,  E.  R.,  at  5  p.  m.  ;  to  Huntington,  Cold 
Spring,  and  Oyster  Bay,  from  Pier  37,  E.  R.,  at  4  p.  m.  ;  to  Greenport,  New  Suf- 
folk, Sag  Harbor,  and  Orient,  from  Pier  4,  N.  R.,  at  6  p.  M.  ;  to  Greenwich,  Stam- 
ford, and  Norwalk.  every  afternoon,  IVom  Pier  37,  E.  R.  ;  to  Bridgeport,  at  11.30 
and  4  ;  and  ft-ora  Pier  35,  E.  R. ,  at  noon  and  midnight  (fare,  $  1)  ;  to  New  Haven, 
at  3.1ft  and  11,  from  Pier  37,  E.  R.  (fare,  $1.25);  to  Middletown  and  Hartford, 
fVom  Pier  24,  E.  R.,  at  4  p.  m.  (fare,  $1.50);  to  Now  London  (and  Boston)  and 
Norwich,  ft-om  Pier  40,  N.  R.,  at  6  p.  m.  ;  to  Stonington  (and  Boston),  fW)m  Pier 
83.  N.  R.,  at  ft  p.  M. :  to  Newport,  Fall  River  (and  Boston),  ft-om  Pier  28,  N.  R.,  at 
5  p.^.  (earlier  in  winter) ;  to  Providence,  fron.  Pier  27,  N.  R.,  at  5  p.  m. 


12      Route  1, 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


>i 


h 


■: 


t     i 


New  York  Citt,  the  commercial  metropolis  of  the  United  States  and 
the  chief  city  of  the  Western  Hemisphere,  is  situated  on  Manhattan 
Island,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Hudson  River,  in  latitude  40°  42'  43"  N.  and 
longitude  3°  1'  13"  E.  from  Washington.  The  island  is  13^  M.  long  and 
from  ^  M.  to  2^  M.  wide  (containing  22  sq\iare  M.),  and  is  bounded  on  the 
W.  by  the  Hudson  (or  Noi*th)  River,  on  the  E.  by  the  East  River,  and  on 
the  N.  by  the  Harlem  River  and  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek,  while  its  S.  end 
looks  out  on  the  Bay  of  New  York  and  is  17  M.  from  the  open  sea.  The 
S.  part  of  the  island  consists  of  alluvial  deposits,  but  low  rocky  ridges 
are  found  along  the  centre  and  extend  N.  to  tlie  cliffs  of  Washington 
Heights.  The  city  extends  in  compact  lines  for  5-6  M.  N.  of  the  Bat- 
tery, and  the  district  above  the  densely  settled  streets  is  studded  with 
villas  and  parks,  public  and  charitable  buildings,  and  market-gardens. 
The  upper  part  of  the  island,  and  the  rural  towns  of  Westchester  County 
which  were  recently  annexed  to  New  York,  are  comparatively  thinly  in- 
habited, by  reason  of  their  distance  from  the  business  part  of  the  city. 
Schemes  of  viaduct  railways  and  underground  tunnels  are  now  in  various 
stages  of  development,  and  are  designed  to  afford  a  means  of  rapid  tran- 
sit up  and  down  the  island.  The  grand  avenue  called  Broadway  runs 
from  tlie  Battery  to  the  Central  Park,  beyond  which  the  broad  and  costly 
Boulevard  leads  to  the  upper  end  of  the  island.  The  city  is  laid  out  some- 
what irregularly  from  the  Battery  to  Union  Square  (2^  M.),  but  beyond 
that  point  straight  parallel  streets  extend  from  river  to  river.  These 
streets  are  numerically  designated;  are  called  East  or  West  from  the  point 
where  6th  Ave.  intersects  them,  and  are  each  60  ft.  wide  (except  14th, 
23d,  34th,  42d,  and  several  farther  N.,  which  are  100  ft.  wide) ;  20  of  these 
blocks  (as  from  14th  to  34th  St.)  make  1  M.  The  numbered  streets  are 
crossed  at  right  angles  by  12  numbered  avenues,  800  ft.  apart  and  100  ft. 
wide  (except  Madison  and  Lexington  Aves.,  75  ft.  wide,  and  4th  Ave. 
above  34th  St.,  140  ft.  wide).  3d  Ave.,  on  the  E.  side,  and  8th  Ave.,  on 
the  W.,  are  the  principal  highways  above  14th  St. ;  and  5th,  Park,  Lex- 
ington, and  Madison  Aves.,  with  their  connecting  cross-streets,  are  the 
most  fashionable  quarters  for  residences  and  churches.  On  the  E.  projec- 
tion of  the  island,  beyond  Tompkins  Square,  are  avenues  A,  B,  C,  and  D. 

The  Bay  of  New  York  is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  in  the  world,  and 
affords  a  safe  anchorage  for  the  lai^est  commercial  fleets  and  the  great 
vessels  of  the  transatlantic  steamship  lines.  About  20,000  vessels  an- 
nually enter  this  port,  and  are  accommodated  at  75  piers  on  the  North 
River,  and  70  on  the  East  River.  65  per  cent  of  the  imports  and  60  per 
cent  of  the  exports  of  the  United  States  pass  through  New  York.  The 
inner  harbor  is  entered  by  a  deep  strait  called  the  Narrows,  which  is  de- 
fended by  the  most  powerful  and  imposing  fortifications  and  armaments 
in  the  Western  World. 


-I 


w 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Route  I.      13 


States  and 
Manhattan 
43"  N.  and 
'..  long  and 
ded  on  the 
^er,  and  on 
s  its  S.  end 
sea.  The 
icky  ridges 
iTashington 
f  the  Bat- 
idded  \irith 
it-gardens, 
ter  County 
'  thinly  in- 
r  the  city, 
in  varioiui 
rapid  tran- 
iway  runs 
and  costly 
out  some- 
ut  beyond 
r.  These 
L  the  point 
uept  14th, 
20  of  these 
itreets  are 
ind  100  ft. 
4th  Ave. 
1  Ave.,  on 
*ark,  Lex- 
8,  are  the 
E.  projec- 
!,  and  D. 
yrorld,  and 
.  the  great 
essels  an- 
the  North 
md  60  per 
:)rk.  The 
lich  is  de- 
nuameuts 


The  site  of  Ne'  York  was  discovered  by  the  Florentine  mariner,  Verrazzani,  in 
the  year  1524.  on  Sept.  4,  16U9,  the  harbor  was  visited  by  Hendiiclc  Hudson, 
commanding  a  vessel  of  the  Dutch  East  India  Company,  who  reported  it  as  "  a 
very  good  land  to  fall  in  with,  and  a  pleasant  land  to  see  "  ;  and  in  memory  of  the 
scene  of  wassail  and  merriment  that  followed  the  meeting  of  the  sailors  and  the 
natives,  the  Indians  named  tlie  island  Manhattan  (*'  the  place  where  they  all  got 
drunk  ").  Hudson  then  ascended  the  river  since  named  in  his  honor  to  the  site 
of  Albany,  and  claimed  the  land  by  right  of  discovery,  as  an  appanage  of  Holland. 
Trading  expeditions  soon  passed  from  Holland  to  the  new  land,  and  in  1013  a  fort 
was  l)uilt  on  Manhattan  Island.  Later  in  that  year,  the  colony  was  broken  up  by 
Argall  of  Virginia,  with  the  same  British  fleet  that  had  driven  the  Jesuits  from 
Mt.  Desert.  The  States-General  of  the  United  Netherlands  now  encouraged  fresh 
emigrations  to  the  contested  domain ;  and  the  coimtry  received  the  name  of  the 
New  Netherland. 

In  1614  a  Dutch  colony  came  over  and  built  houses  and  a  fort  (near  the  present 
Bowling  Green),  naming  the  place  New  Amsterdam,  in  honor  of  that  city  which 
had  taken  the  foremost  part  in  the  entei-prise.  In  1626  arrived  Peter  Minuit,  the 
first  Dutch  governor,  who  bought  Manhattan  Island  of  the  Indians  for  ^24.  He 
was  succeeded  by  Wouter  Van  Twiller  (1633),  William  Kieft  (1638),  and  Peter  Stuy- 
V'"^ctut  (1647).  In  1653  a  rairipart  was  built  along  Wall  St.,  to  keep  out  the  Ind- 
ians ;  and  in  1658  the  flrst  wharves  were  built.  In  1664,  Peter  Stuyvesant  tteing 
Captain-General,  and  the  place  having  about  1,800  inhabitants.  King  Charles  II. 
of  England  granted  all  the  land  from  the  Connecticut  to  the. Delaware  River  to 
his  brother  James  (Duke  of  York  and  Albany,  and  afterwards  King  James  II.  of 
England).  An  English  fleet  of  4  frigates  and  450  soldiers  captured  New  Amsterdam 
and  Fort  Orange  (up  the  Hudson),  and  named  them  respectively  New  York  and 
Albany,  in  honor  of  the  royal  duke  in  whose  domain  they  lay.  At  the  treaty  of 
Breda,  this  new  conquest  was  conflrmed  to  England  in  exchange  for  Surinam.  A 
Dutch  fleet  retook  the  place  in  1673  ;  but  after  about  a  year,  it  was  restored  to  the 
British  crown.  During  tlie  English  Revolution  Ca])t.  Jacob  Leisler  seized  the 
fort  and  assumed  the  government  in  the  name  of  tlie  Prince  of  Orange  (King  Wil- 
liam of  England).  He  controlled  the  province  and  city  during  a  period  of  bitter 
{)olitical  struggles  and  foreign  invasions  ,  but  refused  to  acknowledge  the  autlior- 
ty  of  the  new  governor  sent  from  England,  and  was  arrested,  tried,  and  executed. 

In  1696  Trinity  Church  was  founded  ;  in  l702  the  first  free  grammar-school  was 
opened  ;  in  1711  a  slave-market  was  established  in  Wall  St.  ;  and  in  1725  the  Neto 
York  Gazette  was  founded.  A  line  of  stages  to  Boston  was  started  ia  1732,  the 
time  of  passage  being  14  days.  In  1741,  during  the  excitement  caused  by  disas- 
trous conflagrations  and  the  spread  of  the  yellow  fever,  the  so-called  Negro  Plot 
was  imagined.  Tliis  causeless  panic  was  more  terrible  in  its  results  than  the  Sa- 
lem witchcraft  delusion ;  and  within  6  months  154  negroes  and  20  whites  were 
imprisoned,  and  13  negroes  were  burned  at  the  stake,  20  were  hung,  and  73  were 
transported.  The  commerce  of  the  city  imireased  rapidly,  and  its  merchants 
made  a  bold  and  decided  stand  against  the  unjust  aggressions  of  the  British  Par- 
liament. In  1765  a  Colonial  Congress  convened  here  during  the  Stamp  Act  ex- 
citement, and  efligies  of  the  governor  and  the  Devil  were  burned  in  public.  In 
1770,  3,000  citizens  met  to  organize  against  the  new  taxation,  and  the  landing  of 
tea  was  forbidden  by  the  people.  Tlie  statues  of  King  George  III.  and  Lord 
Chatham  were  destroyed,  and  tlie  artillery  of  tlie  forts  was  carried  away  into  the 
Highlands.  The  American  army,  under  Washington,  occupied  the  city  in  1776  ; 
but,  after  the  adverse  battles  on  Long  Island  and  Harlem  Heights,  the  British 
troops  held  the  place  for  7  yeara.  Part  of  the  city  was  burnt ;  part  of  it  was 
turned  into  barracks,  hospitals,  and  prisons  ;  and  thousands  of  American  prison- 
ers were  confined  on  floating  hulks  in  the  East  River.  Nov.  25th,  1783  (whose 
anniversary  is  celebrated  yearly  as  Evacuation  Day),  the  British  troops  embarked, 
and  Washington  and  the  Governor  of  the  State  entered  tlie  city  in  triumph.  In 
1785  the  first  Federal  Congress  met  here ;  and  here,  in  1789,  Washington  was 
inaugurated  President.  Commerce  was  paralyzed  by  the  Embargo  of  1810,  and 
grass  gi-ew  on  tlie  streets  and  wharves.  The  first  steamboat  was  put  on  tlie  Hud- 
son in  1807,  and  the  Erie  Canal  was  completed  in  1825,  amid  splendid  celebrations 
throughout  the  State.  Gas  was  introduced  in  1826.  In  1832  the  Asiatic  cholera 
carried  off  4,380  persons.  In  1836  a  conflagration  destroyed  $  18,000,000  worth  of 
property,  and  the  financial  crisis  of  1837  ruined  thousands  of  merchants.  Though 


11      Route  1. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


frequently  scourged  with  fire  and  pestilence,  the  growth  of  the  city  was  not  re^ 
tarded.  The  Croton  Aqueduct  was  completed  in  1842,  at  a  cost  of  9iii  9,000,000, 
since  whicli  over  $30,000,000  have  been  spent  on  it,  and  $22,000,000  have  been 
received  for  water  taxes.  A  great  fii-e  in  1845  caused  a  loss  of  i^  6 -7,000,000  ;  and 
in  1849  and  1854  came  the  disastrous  visitations  of  the  cholera.  New  Yoric  has 
grown  rapidly  since  the  introduction  of  the  railroad  system,  and  the  most  remote 
parts  of  the  States  are  i-eached  by  its  lines  of  traclc.  Scores  of  ocean-steamers  and 
fleets  of  packet-ships  bring  in  the  products  of  all  continents,  and  bear  away  full 
cargoes  of  Western  grain  or  the  manufactures  of  the  Middle  and  New  England 
States.  At  the  outbrealc  of  the  Secession  War,  in  18<il,  the  city  was  electrified 
with  excitement ;  barracl{s  were  built  on  its  squares  ;  the  New  England  raiments 
passed  through  its  streets  on  the  way  South  ;  and  powerftd  fleets  were  despatched 
tlience  to  land  national  armies  before  the  rebellious  cities  of  the  coast  116,882  men 
of  New  Yorli  City  entered  the  armies  of  the  Republic.  During  the  Kebel  invasion 
of  Pennsylvania,  when  many  of  the  N.  Y.  militia  were  at  the  front,  great  mobs  of 
degraded  foreigners  and  the  outlaw  classes  arose  in  insurrection  and  occupied  the 
city,  driving  bacli  the  police,  sacking  many  stores  and  houses,  and  killing  every 
negro  or  U.  S.  soldier  whom  they  met  (under  pretence  of  resisting  the  drafting 
for  the  army).  The  reign  of  terror  continued  for  several  days,  until  the  local  regi- 
ments and  a  body  of  veteran  troops  were  hurried  back  into  tlie  city,  and  by 
an  unsparing  use  of  bayonet  and  grai)e-shot,  drove  the  marauders  into  their 
dens. 

Tlie  population  of  New  York  City  has  increased  from  1,000  in  165C  to  4,937  in 
1698,  10,664  in  1737,  21,862  in  1771,  60,489  in  1800,  123,706  in  1820,  312,710  in  1840, 
615,847  in  1850,  812,869  in  1860,  and  1,021,000  in  1876  ;  of  whom  201,999  wet« 
Irish,  151,222  Gennans,  24,432  English,  13,073  negroes.  8,267  French,  7,554  Scotch, 
4,338  Canadians,  2,790  Italians,  2,392  Poles,  2,169  Swiss,  1,569  Swedes,  1,293  Cd- 
bans,  1,237  Dutch,  1,139  Russians,  682  Danes,  587  Welsh,  464  Spaniards,  373  Nor- 
wegians, 328  Belgians,  213  S.  Americans,  115  Chinese,  64  Mexicans,  and  38  Turks. 
There  are  but  two  larger  cities  (^London  and  Paris)  in  Christendom  ;  and  if  the 
population  of  the  adjacent  municipalities  of  Brooklyn  and  Jersey  City  are  added 
to  that  of  New  York,  it  is  the  sixth  city  in  the  world.  It  is  estimated  that  there 
are  1,600,000  persons  in  New  York  at  noon  on  every  secular  day.  The  assessed 
valuation  of  the  real  and  personal  estate  of  the  city  in  1875  was  81,100,94,3,690; 
and  its  taxes  (exclusive  of  national)  for  1870  amounted  to  .<J  25.303,860.  In 
1870  there  arrived  at  this  port  14,687  vessels  ftt)m  the  American  coast,  and  4,688 
vessels  from  foreign  ports.  Of  the  latter  (and  of  all  classes  larger  than  schooners) 
1,621  were  British,  1,245  American,  313  German,  98  Norwegian,  86  Italian,  36 
French,  30  Dutch,  30  Danish,  22  Swedish,  18  each  of  Spanish  and  Portuguese,  16 
Austrian,  and  8  Russian.  In  the  same  year  there  were  received  here,  1,000,000  tons 
of  ice,  2,831,036  head  of  live  stock,  1,592,403  boxes  of  cheese,  24,000  tons  of  wool, 
75,000  tons  of  coffee,  19,000  tons  of  tea,  256,000  tons  of  sugar,  22,000,000  gallons  of 
molasses,  and  %  109,498,523  worth  of  dry-goods  ;  and  there  were  exported  87,000,000 
gallons  of  i)etroleum,  328,000  bales  of  cotton,  and  vast  amounts  of  breadstuffs  and 
provisions.  In  1873  the  exports  were  «848,90.%066  ;  the  imports,  %  398,565,836 
(on  which  were  paid  duties  amounting  to  (8115,516,935).  In  1870  there  were  54 
national  banks,  with  a  capital  of  $74,435,000  and  resources  of  $375,152,000  ;  25 
State  banks,  with  a  capital  of  $  13,940,850  ;  and  32  savings-banks,  witli  resources 
amounting  to  $  113,804,067.  In  1876  there  were  370  churches,  valued  at  $43,000- 
000,  and  accommodating  308,500  persons.  Of  these,  72  were  Episcopal,  52  Pres- 
byterian, 60  Methodist,  41  Catholic,  31  Baptist,  21  Reformed  Dutx'.h,  27  Hebrew, 
and  18  Lutheran.  In  1876  there  were  in  the  public  schools  and  colleges  3,365 
teachers,  and  277,310  pupils  (in  actual  attendance).  Over  10,000,000  strangers 
visit  New  York  yearly.  In  1870  there  were  1,260  fatal  accidents  and  112.  .sui- 
cides. In  the  same  year  there  were  6,848  drinking-saloons  in  N.  Y.,  at  which 
$38 -60,000,000  were  spent.  Tlie  flre-brigade  has  37  steam-engines,  16  ladder- 
trucks,  and  about  600  men.  There  are  460  M.  of  streets,  340  M.  of  Croton  water- 
pipes,  275  M.  of  sewers,  19,000  gas-lights,  1,000  horse-cars  (on  126  M.  of  street 
tracks),  267  omnibuses,  40,000  001*368,  2,400  policemen,  and  18,000  disciplined 
miUtia. 


■  »* 


.i;{i-!  *R*4u^t-ip3'*:iHt.fc»? 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


jRotUe  1.      15 


was  not  re* 

«  9,000,000, 

0  have  been 
•00,000 ;  and 
3W  York  has 
most  remote 
teamers  and 
ar  away  full 
ew  England 
IS  electrified 
d  raiments 
despatched 
116,382  men 
bel  invasion 
eat  mobs  of 
•ccupied  the 
ulling  every 
the  drafting 
le  local  regi- 
ity,  and  by 

into  their 

J  to  4,987  in 
710  in  1840, 
91,999  were 
564  Scotch, 
i,  1,293  GU- 
Is, 373  Nor- 
d  38  Turks, 
and  if  the 
y  are  added 

1  that  there 
he  assessed 
00,943,090 ; 
03.860.  In 
fc,  and  4,688 

schooners) 

Italian,  36 

tuguese,  16 

)00,000  tons 

ns  of  wool, 

0  gallons  of 
1 87,000,000 
dstuffs  and 
398,565,836 
sre  were  54 
152,000  ;  25 
li  resources 
at  $43,000- 
il,  52  Prea- 
17  Hebrew, 
leges  3,365 

1  strangers 
d  112.  sui- 
,  at  which 

15  ladder- 
)ton  water- 
[.  of  street 
disciplined 


■'I 


The  Battery  is  a  park  at  the  S.  end  of  Manhattan  Island,  adorned  with 
large  trees  and  verdant  lawns,  and  fronted  by  a  sea-wrjl  of  massive  ma- 
sonry. From  the  esplanade  are  obtained  admirable  *  views  of  the  Bay, 
with  the  Hudson  River  debouching  on  the  r.  and  the  East  River  on  the  1. 
The  populous  heights  of  Brooklyn  are  to  the  E.,  with  Governor's  Is -and 
nearer  at  hand,  on  which  the  high  walls  of  Castle  William  are  seen,  with 
the  embankments  of  the  less  imposing  but  more  powerful  Fort  Columbus, 
a  star-fort  mounting  120  heavy  cannon.  Farther  down  the  harbor  are 
Ellis  and  Bedloe's  Islands,  on  which  are  Forts  Gibson  and  Wood. 

The  curious  round  structure  on  the  Battery  was  built  for  a  fortress 
("Castle  Clinton")  in  1807,  was  ceded  to  the  city  in  1823,  and  was  the 
scene  of  the  civic  receptions  of  the  Marquis  de  Lafayette,  Gen.  Jackson, 
President  Tyler,  t,nd  others.  It  then  became  an  opera-house,  where 
Jenny  Lind,  Sontag,  Parodi,  Jullien,  Mario,  etc.,  made  tneir  appearance. 

The  building  is  now  used  as  a  depot  for  immigrants,  who  are  received  here  from 
their  ships,  are  given  aid,  information,  and  protection  from  sharpers,  and  are  de- 
spatched to  their  chosen  homes  in  the  West.  This  is  the  chief  receiving  and  dis- 
tributing reservoir  of  the  great  tide  of  immigration  from  Europe.  The  total  of  the 
alien  immigration  to  the  U.  S.  between  1847  and  1870  was  4,297,935  persons  ;  of 
whom  1,664,009  were  Irish,  1,636,254  Germans,  639,668  English,  111,238  Scotch, 
77,/00  French,  65,607  Swiss,  64,538  Swedes,  28,347  Hollanders,  23,834  Welsh,  and 
1.'/  ■"'  Norwegians.  In  1871  -  73,  there  arrived  at  N.  Y.  792,121  foi-eign  immigrants ; 
a      :    .  e  1783  over  9,000,000  have  entered  the  Republic,  mostly  by  this  port. 

irom  Whitehall,  on  the  E.  of  the  Battery,  start  the  Staten  Island, 
Bay  Ridge,  Governor's  Island,  South,  and  Hamilton  (Brooklyn)  Ferries, 
and  boatmen  may  be  engaged  here  for  trips  in  the  harbor.  Several  omni- 
bus and  norse-car  routes  converge  at  Whitehall  (on  which,  comer  of  Pearl 
St.,  is  tlie  large  building  of  the  Corn  Exchange).  From  this  point  South  St. 
follows  the  East  River  shore  for  over  2  M.,  passing  the  ferries  to  the  Long 
Island  cities,  and  the  piers  at  which  lie  hundreds  of  stately  packet  and  clip- 
per ships  and  humbler  coasting- vessels.  Bowling  Green,  the  cradle  of  New 
York,  is  just  N.  of  the  Battery.  Near  by  Fort  Amsterdam  was  built  in 
1635,  and  in  1770  an  equestrian  statue  of  King  George  III.  (of  gilded  lead) 
was  set  up  on  the  Green.  In  1776  the  statue  was  overthrown  by  the 
people,  and  taken  to  Litchfield,  Conn.,  where  it  was  melted  into  bullets 
for  the  Continental  army.  West  St.  runs  N.  along  the  Hudson  River 
shore  for  over  2  M.  from  tlie  Battery,  passing  the  piers  of  hundreds  of 
steamers  and  the  ferries  to  the  New  Jersey  shore.  (The  Hudson  is  often 
called  the  North  River,  a  name  given  by  the  early  Dutch  colonists  to  dis- 
tinguish it  from  the  Delaware  River,  which  they  called  the  South  River.) 
The  house  No.  1  Broadway  was  built  in  1760,  and  has  served  as  the 
head-quarters  of  Lord  Howe,  Gen.  Clinton,  Lord  Comwallis,  and  Gen. 
Washington.  Talleyrand  once  lived  in  this  house,  and  Fulton  died  along- 
side it.  Benedict  Arnold  lived  at  No.  6  Broadway,  and  Gen.  Gage  had 
his  head-quarters  at  No.  11. 


16      Jtoute  L 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


fit 


!  : 


'■ 


A  short  distance  above  the  Green  is  *  Trinity  Olmroh,  a  noble  Gothic 
building  of  brown-stone,  with  a  steeple  284  ft.  high.    The  interior  is  192 
ft.  long  and  60  ft.  high,  with  a  deep  chancel  lighted  by  a  superb  window, 
and  with  masaive  columns  separating  the  nave  from  the  aisles.     The 
church  is  open  all  the  week,  and  the  ascent  of  the  spire  (308  steps ;  fee, 
12^0.)  should  be  made  for  the  sake  of  the  view  from  the  top.    To  the  E. 
is  Long  Island  Sound  and  the  hills  of  Connecticut;  on  the  S.  is  the  noble 
harbor,  with  its  fleets  and  fortified  islands  and  the  fair  villages  of  Staten 
Island  in  the  distance;  to  the  W.,  across  the  Hudson,  are*  Jersey  City, 
Benp;an,  Newark,  and  Elizabeth,  and  the  blue  hills  of  Orange ;  and  up 
li^er  from  Jersey  City  are  Hoboken  and  Weehawken,  with  the  Palisades 
and  the  distant  bine  Highlands  m  the  N.    The  thronged  and  brilliant 
Broadway  runs  N.  E.  for  2  M.,  to  Grace  Church,  and  the  great  mass  of 
the  city  is  seen  on  either  hand,  while  the  course  of  the  East  River  may 
be  followed  by  Flushing  and  Astoria,  to  Brooklyn,  beyond  which  are  the 
graves  of  Prospect  Park  and  Greenwood.    Directly  below  is  the  crowded 
V/all  St.,  along  whose  line  ran  the  walls  of  New  Amsterdam.    There  is  a 
large  and  venerable  graveyard  about  the  church,  in  which  are  buried  Alex* 
ander  Hamilton,  Capt.  Lawrence  (of  the  Chesapeake),  Albert  Gallatin, 
Robert  Fulton,  and  other  noted  men,  and  the  unfortimate  Charlotte  I'em- 
ple  ;  while  in  one  comer  is  a  stately  Gothic  monument  to  the  patriots  who 
died  in  the  British  prisons  at  N.  Y.  during  the  Revolution.    Tlie  Trinity 
Parish  is  the  oldest  in  the  city,  and  the  first  church  on  the  present  site 
was  built  in  1696.    In  1705  Queen  Anne  gave  it  a  fine  communion  service 
(still  preserved)  and  also  a  large  tract  of  land  on  Manhattan  Island,  which 
has  since  so  increased  in  value  that  this  church  is  the  richest  in  America 
(worth  about  $9,000,000),  and  spends  immense  sums  annually  in  benefac- 
tions among  the  poor  of  New  York,  besides  supporting  a  considerable 
body  of  clei^y  and  a  choir  which  is  unsui-passed  in  the  country.    There 
are  morning  and  evening  prayers  daily  in  the  church  (9  a.  m.  and  3  P.  M. ), 
with  imposing  choral  services  on  Sunday.    The  chime  of  bells  in  the 
steeple  is  the  finest  in  America. 

Wall  St.  runs  from  Trinity  Church  to  the  shores  of  East  River,  and  is 
the  resort  of  bankers  and  brokers,  and  the  financial  centre  of  the  Republic. 
The  stately  ♦  XT.  8.  Sub-Treasary  is  on  the  comer  of  Wall  and  Nassau 
Sts.,  on  the  site  of  the  hall  where  Washington  was  inaugurated  first  Presi- 
dent of  the  U.  S.  (1789).  It  is  built  in  partial  imitation  of  the  Parthenon 
at  Athens,  with  Doric  colonnades  and  a  classic  pediment,  anil  a  lofty 
interior  rotunda,  supported  by  16  Corinthian  columns.  It  is  of  Massa- 
chusetts marble  (with  granite  roof),  and  took  8  years  in  building/  costing 
$  2,000,000  (visitors  admitted,  10-3  o'clock).  In  this  vicinity  the  chief 
American  banking-houses  are  located ;  and  opposite  is  the  superb  Drexel 
building  (built  in  the  Renaissance  styl6,  at  a  cost  of  $700,000).    Broad 


1 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Route  1,      17 


>Ie  Gothic 
ior  is  192 

>  window, 
es.  The 
Jeps;  fee, 
To  the  E. 
the  noble 
of  Staten 
sey  City, 
;  and  up 
Palisades 

brilliant 
mass  of 
iver  may 
h  are  the 
crowded 
here  is  a 
led  Alex- 
Gallatin, 
tte  I'em- 
riots  who 
e  Trinity 
;sent  site 
1  service 
id,  which 
America 
benefac- 
siderable 
.    There 
3  p.m.), 
3  m  the 

r,  and  is 
Republic. 

Nassau 
st  Presi- 
irthenon 

a  lofty 
■  Massa- 
-  costing 
le  chief 

>  Drexel 
Broad 


St.  the  home  of  speculators  and  brokers,  leads  S.  from  tLe  Treasury  (at 
No.  10  is  the  Stock  Exchange) ;  and  to  the  N.  runs  the  narrow  and  busy 
Nassau  St.,  on  which  (2  squares  distant)  is  a  quaint  old  edifice,  which  was 
built  in  1723-26,  for  the  Middle  Dutch  Church.  It  was  used  during  the 
Ilevolulion  as  a  prison  for  Americans  and  a  riding-school  for  British  cav- 
alrymen ;  but  was  reoccupied  by  the  church  society  from  1784  until  1844, 
when  it  was  secularized,  and  was  used  for  the  post-office  from  1861  until 
1875.  In  the  steeple  of  this  church  Franklin  developed  his  theories  of 
electricity.  On  Wall  St.,  below  the  Treasury,  is  the  •  U.  8.  Cnitom  Hoase, 
a  rtiassive  building  of  Qulncy  granite,  which  was  built  in  1835  for  the 
j  Merchants*  Exchange,  at  a  cost  of  $  1,800,000.  It  is  200  by  171  ft.,  and 
has  a  portico  of  18  Ionic  columns,  while  a  dome  124  ft.  high  overarches 
a  rotunda  which  is  80  ft.  in  diameter,  and  is  surrounded  by  8  Corinthian 
columns  of  Italian  marble  (open  to  visitors,  10-3  o'clock).  The  Bank 
I  of  New  York  is  opposite  the  Custom  House,  and  just  below  is  Pearl  St., 
[  the  seat  of  a  heavy  wholesale  trade  in  cotton  and  other  staples.  A  ferry 
I  runs  from  the  foot  of  Wall  St.  to  Montague  St.,  Brooklyn.  Returning  to 
[Broadway,  the  stately  buildings  of  the  Bank  of  the  P.epublic,  the  Metro- 
>litan  Bank,  the  *  Equitable  Life  Ins.  Co.  (137  ft.  high),  the  Western 
[Union  Telegraph  Co.  (ten  stories  high),  and  other  corporations  are 
passed.  John  St.  (to  the  E.)  leads  to  the  oldest  Methodist  CHiurch  in 
America  (built  in  1768) ;  and  on  William  St.,  near  John  St,  Washington 
Irving  was  bom.  Fulton  St.  turns  off  by  the  Evening  Post**  immense 
building,  and  leads  to  Fulton  Ferry,  passing  an  active  business  quar- 
ter and  the  Fulton  Market.  .St.  PauPs  Church  (Epis.),  on  the  W.  side 
of  Broadway,  was  built  in  1766,  and  has  a  statue  of  St.  Paul  on  its  pedi- 
ment, with  a  mural  tablet  -  in  the  front  wall  over  the  remains  of  Gen. 
Montgomery.  Opposite  the  church  are  the  floridly  ornamented  Park  Bank 
and  the  extensive  and  elegant  Herald  Building  (both  of  marble),  occupy- 
ing the  site  of  Bamum's  Museum^(bumed  in  1865).  The  long  and  un- 
adorned granite  front  of  the  Astor  House  comes  next,  on  the  I.  side  of 
Broadway,  with  Vesey  St.  diverging  to  the  I.  to  the  great  Washington 
Market,  whose  rude  and  unsightly  sheds  are  filled  with  a  rare  display  of 
the  fruits  and  vegetables,  meats  and  fish,  of  the  adjacent  districts.  This 
is  the  chief  of  the  11  markets  of  the  city,  and  should  be  seen  early  on  Sat- 
urday morning.  Park  Row  stretches  obliquely  to  the  r.,  from  the  Astor 
House  to  Frinting-House  Square,  where  there  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Ben- 
jamin franklin.  This  vicinity  is  one  of  the  great  intellectual  centres  of 
America,  and  here  are  seen  the  offices  of  the  Herald,  Times,  Tribune^  World, 
Sun,  Evening  Mail^  Telegram,  News^  Excess,  Day  Book,  and  JourtuU 
(all  dailies,  besides  a  great  number  of  weekly  papers).  The  lofty  and 
symmocrical  gi-anite  building  of  the  Stoats  Zeitung  (a  German  daily)  is  seen 
to  tiie  N.,  and  the  hew  Tribune  Building  rises  loftily  on  the  B.  of  the 


18      Route  1. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


square.  It  is  nine  stories  (150  ft.)  high,  with  a  tower  285  ft.  above 
the  foundations,  and  is  also  completely  fire-proof.  The  Christian  Union, 
Independent^  Home  Journal,  and  Daily  Graphic  are  published  in  Park 
Place.  By  turning  from  Printing-House  Square  down  Frankfort  St., 
Franklin  Square  is  reached,  with  the  vast  publishing-house  of  the  Har- 
pers. 

Naiiau  8t.  runs  S.  from  Printing-House  Square  to  Wall  St.,  passing 
the  old  Post-OfiBce.  It  is  a  narrow,  close  street  between  lofty  buildings, 
and  in  usually  crowded  with  hurrying  business  men.  The  buildings  are 
occupied  by  thousands  of  small  o£Bces  ;  the  periodical  and  cheap  novel 
trade  is  largely  centred  here;  in  the  cellars  vast  collections  of  old  books 
are  exposed  for  sale;  and  near  Wall  St.  are  several  wealthy  banking- 
houses.  Chatham  St.,  the  prolongation  of  Park  Row,  runs  to  the  N.  B. 
to  Chatham  Square,  and  is  a  narrow  and  dirty  street,  lined  with  dilapidated 
buildings,  which  are  the  homes  of  Jew  tradesmen,  old-clothes  dealers, 
pawnbrokers,  and  low  concert-saloons.  From  Chatham  Square,  unclean, 
crowc^ed,  and  repulsive  streets  divei^ge  on  all  sides ;  and  a  short  distance 
to  the  W.  are  the  gloomy  purlieus  of  the  Five  Points.  Rimning  N.  from 
Chatham  Square  is  the  Bowery,  a  broad  and  crowded  thoroughfare  which: 
conducts,  in  1  M.,  to  the  Cooper  Institute.  Although  near  Broadway, 
and  nearly  parallel  with  it,  the  Bowery  forms  a  complete  antithesis  to 
that  splendid  thoroughfare.  It  is  the  avenue  of  the  lower  classes,  and  is 
lined  with  beer  and  concert  saloons,  shooting-galleries,  policy-shops,  lodg- 
ing-houses, pawnbrokers,  Jew  merchants,  and  cheap  retail  shops,  many 
of  which  are  kept  open  on  Sunday.  The  population  here  is  cosmopolitan 
and  unasstmilated,  consisting  principally  of  Germans,  and  many  of  the 
signs  are  in  Oerman.  Since  the  dismissal  of  the  volunteer  fire-department, 
the  up-town  march  of  business,  and  the  new  police  system,  the  Bowery 
has  greatly  improved,  and  the  rufSan  bands  of  the  "  Bowery  Boys  "  and 
"  Dead  Rabbits  "  no  longer  wage  sanguinary  war  upon  each  other  and 
the  city  guardians. 

At  the  S.  end  of  the  City  Hall  Park,  and  opposite  the  Astor  House,  is 
the  new  *  U.  8.  Fost-OfBoe,  an  immense  and  stately  granite  building, 
with  lofty  Louvre  domes  and  a  frontage  (on  the  4  sides)  of  1,080  ft.  The 
architecture  is  Doric  and  Renaissance  (in  those  peculiar  forms  which  Super- 
vising Architect  Mullett  has  used  in  all  the  new  national  buildings),  and 
the  front  is  adorned  with  20  statues.  The  granite  columns  and  blocks 
were  cut  and  carved  ready  for  their  places  at  the  Dix  Island  Quarries 
(Maine),  and  the  building  is  incombustible.  The  lower  floors  are  for 
the  Post-Office  (with  a  public  corridor  600  ft.  long  and  25  ft.  wide) ; 
the  upper  floors  are  for  the  U.  S.  Courts ;  and  twelve  elevators  keep 
up  vertical  communication.  The  building  was  occupied  in  1875,  and  prob- 
ably cost  1 7,000,000.    The  City  Hall  is  N.  of  the  Post-Office,  and  is  a 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Route  L      19 


fine  building  of  Massachusetts  marble,  216  by  105  ft.,  with  Ionic,  Corin- 
thian, and  Composite  pilasters  lining  its  front.  It  has  a  graceful  clock- 
tower,  which  is  illuminated  at  night.  The  Governor's  room  contains  many- 
portraits  of  New  York  worthies,  painted  by  various  American  artists,  and 
the  table  on  which  Washington  wrote  his  first  message  to  Congress  ;  the 
chairs  of  the  first  Congress  and  of  Washington  are  preserved  in  the  Alder- 
man's and  Mayor's  rooms ;  and  the  Library  is  open  all  day.  The  City 
Hall  was  built  1803- 10,  and  cost  $  700,000.  N.  of  this  edifice  is  the  new 
Court  HouMt  a  massive  marble  building  in  Corinthian  architecture,  250 
I  by  150  ft.,  and  completely  fire-proof. 

The  Court  House  was  founded  in  1861.  and  the  cost  of  its  construction  was  esti- 
[  mated  at  4  800,000  •  but  the  infamous  Tammany  Ring  gained  control  in  the  city  (in 
1 1869 -70- 71),  and  drew  from  tlie   treasury  over  ^12,000,030  on  its  account 
1$  5,091,144  was  received  by  J.  H.  Inge;  soil  (now  in  Sing  Sing  Prison)  for  fUrniture 
[and  repairs  at  the  Cuurt  House  and  militia  araiories  :  and  9  2,905,464  was  paid  to 
I  A.  J.  Garvey  for  plastering  and  painting  tlie  same.   The  Tammany  Ring  (so  called 
[from  Tammany  Hall,  the  Demm-ratic  head-quarters)  consisted  of  a  number  of  un- 
Iscrupulous  men,  ignorant  and  low-bom,  who  got  into  power  in  the  municipal 
Iffovemmeat  during  a  season  of  general  amthy  among  the  voters  of  the  city.  Hav- 
Efng  made  their.positions  secure  by  heavily  bribing  the  State  Legislature  and  all 
{Other  corrective  powers,  they  entered  upon  a  career  of  open  pluntlering  and  un- 
Iblushing  theft,  presenting  "an  example  of  criminal  abuse  of  public  trust  without 
Iparallel  in  the  history  of  the  world."    The  Court  House  was  a  mine  of  wealth  to 
ftlie  Ring,  and  in  its  present  incomplete  condition  (a  lofty  and  graceful  dome  is  to 
itte  added)  has  cost  as  much  as  the  Houses  of  Parliament  at  London,  or  the  Capitol 
I  at  Washington.  The  authorities  attempted  to  suppress  the  freedom  or  speech  and 
the  liberties  of  the  press,  and  during  their  rule  the  government  of  the  city  cost 
;  $30,000,000  a  year.    In  July,  1871,  a  dissension  arose  in  the  Ring,  and  one  of  its 
'.  members  made  a  public  statement  of  the  robberies.  The  newspapers  turned  their 
iinuiense  power  against  the  corrupt  powers  :  the  citizens  arose  and  appointed  a 
committee  of  70  ;  the  Democratic  leaders  of  the  old  school  repudiated  their  un- 
principled partisanv^i ;  and  at  the  ensuing  elections  the  Ring  was  overwhelmingly 
,  defeated.    Some  of  its  members  fled  before  the  storm  of  popular  wrath  ;  the  rest 
were  tried  before  the  civil  courts.   A  few  escaped,  bearing  an  ineffaceable  stigma ; 
and  others  were  sentenced  to  years  of  penal  servitude  in  the  State  prisons.    Wni. 
M.  Tweed,  the  "  Boss  "  of  the  Ring  (fotmerly  a  chairmaker's  apprentice  and  fore- 
man of  a  company  of  rufiianly  firemen),  made  $  15-20,000,000  out  of  the  plunder ; 
and  was  sentenced  (in  1873)  to  12  years'  imprisonment  in  tlie  penitentiary,    tie 
has  since  died  in  prison.     "  Not  an  official  implicated  in  these  uifamies  has  had 
the  virtue  to  commit  suicide." 

Opposite  the  Court  House  is  the  great  marble  building  devoted  to  A. 
T.  Stewart's  wholesale  trade  (shawls,  silks,  and  dry-good»),  standing  on 
the  site  of  a  British  fort  of  1776-83.  Passing  up  Broadway,  with  im- 
mense and  costly  buildings  on  either  side,  and  similarly  lined  streets  run- 
ning oif  to  the  r.  and  1.,  the  brilliant  windows,  the  throngs  on  the  side- 
walks, and  the  roar  of  the  street  cause  constant  surprise.  At  the  comer 
of  Pearl  and  Elm  Sts.  is  the  printing-house  of  Frank  Leslie.  On  the  r. 
is  the  "  Bloody  Sixth  "  Ward  (bounded  by  Broadway,  Canal,  Bowery, 
and  Chatham  Sts.),  with  its  dense  and  dangerous  population,  its  filth, 
poverty,  and  crime.  Leonard  St.  diverges  to  the  r.  to  the  city  prison, 
called  the  Tombs,  a  granite  building  in  the  form  of  a  hollow  square,  200 
by  252  ft.    It  is  massively  built  in  the  gloomiest  and  heaviest  form  of 


20      Route  1. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


M 


Egyptian  architecture,  and  is  usually  crowded  with  'criminals.  In  the 
interior  of  the  quadrangle  is  the  place  of  executions.  A  short  distance 
beyond,  at  the  intersection  of  Baxter,  Park,  and  Worth  Sts*,  is  the  Five 
Points,  formerly  the  most. terrible  locality  in  the  city  and  Republic,  but 
now  somewhat  imp'iX)ved  by  the  aggressions  of  religious  missions.  In  this 
vicinity  are  the  crowded  and  reeking  tenements,  the  narrow  and  filthy 
alleys,  the  unspeakable  corruption  and  utter  depravity,  of  the  slums  of  the 
Empire  City.  It  is  well  to  be  accompanied  by  a  policeman  during  a  visit 
to  this  district,  both  to  insure  personal  safety  and  to  learn  minute  details 
(late  evening  is  the  best  time). 

The  Five  Points  Mission  (founded  in  1860,  "to  provide  food  and  clothing  for 
the  poor,  to  provide  for  destitute  children,  and  to  fUmish  temporary  shelter  and 
aid  to  the  homeless")  ia  at  61  Parle  St.,  and  clothes  and  educates  450  children. 
The  Five  Points  House  of  Industry  (155  Worth  St.)  was  founded  in  1S54,  and  has 
furnished  over  5,000,000  meals,  lodges  90,000  yearly,  and  supports  400  children 
and  40  homeless  women  yearly.  The  Howard  Mission  (40  New  Bowei^)  is  on  the 
verge  of  slums  that  reek  with  appalling  defi-adation,  and  is  doing  a  noble  philan- 
thropic work.  Near  Baxter  St.  is  the  Chmese  quarter,  inhabited  by  quiet  and 
faidusti'ious  Celestials,  with  a  plurality  of  Irish  wives. 

Advancing  up  Broadway,  Walker  St.  is  seen  leading  to' the  1.  to  the 
Hudson  River  R.  R.  freight  depot,  whose  W.  front  is  adorned  by  the 
largest  bronze  groups  in  the  world  (emblematic  of  Yanderbilt's  career). 
The  ancient  Chapel  of  St.  John  fronts  on  the  depot,  wliich  was  built  on 
St.  John's  Park.  Passing  now  up  Broadway  by  the  superb  white  marble 
buUding  (in  Ionic  architecture,  costing  %  1,000,000)  of  the  N.  Y.  Life  In- 
surance Co.,  and  the  tall  Brandreth  House,  the  broad  thoroughfare  of 
Canal  St.  is  crossed.  At  472  Broadway,  near  Grand  St,  is  the  Appren- 
tices' Library  (48,000  volumes).  Lord  and  Taylor's  vast  wholesale  store, 
the  St.  Nicholas  Hotel,  Appleton's  brilliantly  adorned  bookstore,  and 
Ball,  Black,  &  Co.'s  jewelry  store,  are»seen  on  the  1.  ;  with  the  Prescott 
and  Metropolitan  Hotels  and  several  theatres  on  the  r. 

Prince  St.  leads  to  the  E.  to  the  CtUhedral  of  St.  Patrick,  a  large  plain  building 
which  dates  from  1815,  and  has  in  its  graveyai-d  a  monument  "Ala  memoire  de 
Pierre  Landais,  Ancien  Contre-Amiral  des  Etats  Unis,  Qui  dispamt  Juin  1818." 
Beyond  the  Olympic  Theatre,  Broadway  Is  crossed  by  Bleecker  St.,  tlie  Latin 

auarter  of  N.  Y.,  and  "the  head-quarters  of  Bohemianiam " ;  near  which  (at  8(H) 
[ulbeny  St.)  is  the  Police  Head-quarters,  from  which  telegraphic  wires  run  to  all 
parts  of  the  city*  There  are  atout  2,400  policemen,  of  whom  700  are  on  duty  by 
day,  and  1,400  patrol  the  streets  at  night.  They  are  armed  with  clubs  and  revolv- 
ers ;  are  carefully  drilled  in  infantry  tactics  ;  and  have  always  proved  brave  and 
resolute  in  the  yiresence  of  danger.  The  Broadway  squad  is  composed  of  men 
chosen  from  the  whole  force  on  account  of  their  superior  stature  and  fine  appear- 
ance. Clofie  by  the  Police  Head-quarters  is  Harry  Hill's  dance-house,  a  dangerous 
resort  of  the  disreputable  classes.  Near  the  comer  of  Amity  and  Greene  Sts.  is 
the  Midniffkt  Mission,  a  charitable  reformatory  institution  which  has  achieved 
great  results  for  good  in  one  of  the  worst  parts  of  the  city.  ^ 

The  second  side  street  to  the  I.  beyond  the  lofty  Grand  Central  Hotel 
leads  to  Washington  Square,  a  pleasant  park  of  9^  acres,  laid  out  on  the 
old  Potter's  Field,  where  over  100,000  bodies  are  buried  in  trenchea.    On 


m 


NEW   YORK  CITY. 


jR(mte  J. 


21 


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Appren- 
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n  building 

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the  Latin 

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I  run  to  all 

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the  E.  side  Is  the  University  of  the  Cityqfyeto  York,  a  fine  marble  bnfld- 
ing  200  ft.  long,  in  Eogliah  collegiate  architectnre,  with  a  large  Oothio 
window  lighting  the  chai>el.  The  Univer»ity  was  founded  in  1831,  and 
has  schools  of  art,  medicine,  law,  civil  eiigineering,  and  chemistry,  ^rith 
about  50  professors  and  teachers,  and  irom  500  to  600  students.  Along- 
side  the  University  is  a  handsome  stone  church  of  the  Methodists. 
On  IS.  Wa!)hii)gton  PI.  was  the  home  of  Cornelius  Yanderbilt,  the  railroad 
king,  who  was  born  on  Statei)  Island  in  1794,  and  operated  in  the  steamboat 
trade  for  40  years.  He  then  turned  his  attention  to  railroads,  and  accn- 
mulated  $40,000,000.  Above  the  Grand  Central  Hotel,  Astor  Place 
leads  off  obliquely  to  the  r.  to  the  Mercantile  Library^  a  circulating 
library  of  about  160,000  volumes  (with  8  branches  in  adjacent  cities)^ 
which  has  a  re^ng-room  containing  452  periodicals  (open  0  a.  m.  to  l6 
P.  M.  ;  $  5  a  year ;  strangers  admitted  to  read  on  introduction  from  mem« 
bers).  This  library  is  in  Clinton  Hall,  the  first  opera-house  in  N.  Y. 
Here  occurred  the  fatal  riots  between  the  people  and  the  patricians,  dur- 
ing Macready's  performances,  when  the  military  fired  upon  the  mob  and 
[killed  many  persons,  dose  by  (on  the  S.),  in  Lafayette  Place,  is  the 
"^  Astor  Library,  occupying  2  lofty  halls- in  a  large  Romanesque  building. 
The  library  was  endowed  by  John  Jacob  Astor  with  $400,000,  and  has 
over  150,0(X)  volumes,  besides  rare  old  books  and  considerable  depart- 
ments in  the  European  languages  (open  to  the  public  from  9  to  5  o'clock). 
Adjoining  the  library  lived  the  late  Wm.  B.  Astor,  the  richest  citi- 
zen of  the  U.  S.,  — a  plain,  cold,  hard-working  man,  who  was  worth 
$  60  - 100,000,000.  The  Bibie  House  (at  the  end  of  Astor  Place)  is  an  im- 
mense stnicture,  6  stories  high,  covering  |  of  an  acre,  with  728  ft.  frohtage, 
and  containing  600  operatives.  It  belongs  to  the  American  Bible  Society, 
and  besides  the  vast  number  of  Bibles  issued  from  its  presses,  there  are  13 
religious  and  philanthropic  papers  published  in  the  building.  Since  1817 
tliis  Society  has  received  nearly  $6,000,000,  and  has  issued  10,000,000 
Bibles  and  Testaments  in  24  languages,  besides  granting  $  500,000  to  mis- 
sionary stations.  Several  powerful  religious  organizations  are  domiciled 
in  the  Bible  House.  Opposite  this  point  is  the  *  Cooper  InBtitate,  a 
large  brown-stone  building  which  occupies  an  entire  square,  and  was 
founded  by  Peter  Cooper,  a  wealthy  and  philanthropic  iron  manufacturer 
of  N.  Y.  (bom  in  1791,  and  still  living).  It  has  a  great  library  and  read- 
ing-room, with  courses  of  lectures  and  special  studies  (designing,  teleg- 
raphy, etc.,  for  women),  nearly  all  of  which  are  free  to  the  public.  In 
this  building  are  the  rooms  of  the  American  Institute  and  the  American 
Geographical  Society.  Just  S.  of  the  Institute  is  the  iron  building  of  the 
Tompkins  Market,  over  which  is  the  armory  of  the  wealthy  and  aristo- 
cratic 7th  Regiment  of  the  National  Guai^^  of  the  State  of  N.  Y.,  a  thor- 
oughly disciplined  coips  (tf  citizen-soldiers. 


t%      Route  1. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


\ 


Down  7th  St.  to  tlie  E.  ts  Tompkint  Squart,  an  open  ground  of  10^  aorM,  nied 
for  the  paruUus  uf  tho  inilltia  anil  police,  and  a  favorite  braathlng-place  for  the 
workingmen  wlio  live  in  the  vluinity.  Ilvro  ouuurred  the  conflict  Itetween  the 
conununitttd  and  the  police,  In  1873.  Retweon  Tompkins  Bquuro  and  the  Bowery 
in  tho  densely  ponulated  17th  Waixl,  wltli  2.305  tenement-houses,  and  9S,087L  In- 
habitants, on  £M.  square.  Near  Tompkins  Hquare  (Ud  St.,  near  Ave.  A)  Is  the 
Church  of  the  Most  Holy  Redeemer  (Oornian  Catholic),  with  a  spire  205  ft.  high. 

Stuyvesant  Place  leads  N.  K  from  the  Cooper  Institute,  passing  the 
ancient  Church  of  St.  Mark  ("  in  tho  Cowerie  "),  which  has  the  tombs  of 
tho  Dutch  Captain-General  Stuyvesant  (died  in  1682),  the  Britinh  Gov- 
ernor Sloughter,  and  the  American  Governor  Tompkins.  At  the  end  of 
the  place  is  the  yellow  sandstone  building  of  the  N.  Y.  Historical  Society. 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that,  on  account  of  some  trifling  depredations,  the 
fine  coUtictlons  of  this  Society  are  closed  against  the  people  (except  such  as 
can  get  a  ticket  from  a  member).  The  Abbutt  collection  of  Egyptian  an- 
tiquities was  gathered  by  Dr.  Abbott  during  a  residence  of  20  yeiws  in  Cairo,  and 
includes  1,118  specimens,  among  wlii<  h  are  ornaments,  amiUets,  and  statuettes 
in  gold,  silver,  bronze,  poi-celuiu,  alalt&iter,  marble,  ivory,  and  glass  ;  weapons, 
papyi-i,  and  munnnics  :  3  creut  mununied  bulls  ;  tho  head  of  a  colossal  statue  of 
the  Pharaoh  of  the  Exodus ;  the  armor  of  Kin|;  Shishak,  captor  of  Jerusalem  in 
971  D.  c. ;  strawlcss  bricks  of  the  llcbi-ew  captivity  ;  the  gold  signet-ring  of  King 
Cheops,  builder  of  the  great  Pyramid,  in  the  year  2302  B.  c . ;  and  the  golden 
Jewelry  of  Menes,  the  tlrst  king  named  in  history  (2771  b.  c).  The  Lenox  collec- 
tion of  Nineveh  sculptures  includes  13  ]>iuces,  representing  the  mystical  figures 
of  the  old  Assyrian  theology.  Tho  Gallery  of  Art  has  007  pictures,  including  10 
portraits  by  A.  B.  Durand,  11  by  Jarvis,  4  by  LUlott,  8  (Indians)  by  St.  Memln,  8 
each  by  I^icks,  Huntington,  nnd  Osgood  ;  13  pictures  by  Hogg,  and  examples  uf 
Cranch,  Ingham,  Trumbull,  Mount,  the  Peales,  btuurt,  Gignoux,  Sully,  vander- 
lyn,  Copley,  Benjamin  West,  and  Page.  Among  other  works  of  Thomas  Cole  is 
the  celebrated  series  called  "  The  Courae  of  Empire."  Of  the  old  masters  thei-e 
are  (of  the  Flemish  .School)  by  Wouvermans  4  pictui-es,  by  Van  der  Velde  4,  by 
Terburg  3,  by  Jan  Both  4,  by  Van  Bloemen  3,  by  Tenicrs  the  Younger  7,  by 
Weenix,  Snydei-s,  Steen,  Ruysdael,  Rembrandt,  Van  Ostade,  Neefs,  Mabuse, 
Hemling,  Van  Eyck,  Douw,  Cuyp,  Brouwer,  Bei-ghem,  Phillipe  de  Champagne, 
Quintin  Matsys,  Van  Dyck  (3  pictures),  and  Rubens  (5).  Of  the  German  School, 
by  Valkenburg,  Schoen,  Holbein  (2),  Durer,  Denner,  and  Lucas  Cranach  (2).  Of 
the  French  School,  5  by  Nicholas  Poussln,  3  by  Guaspre  Poussin,  4  of  the  school 
of  Claude  Lorraine,  2  Courtois,  2  Mignard,  4  Joseph  Vemet,  2  Horace  Vernet,  8 
Decamps,  2  Boucher,  7  Watteau,6  by  J.  B.  Greuze,  and  examples  of  Prud'hon, 
Toumiere,  Le  Sueur,  Chardin,  and  Rigaud.  Of  the  English  School,  by  Gains- 
borough, Lawrence,  West,  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds,  and  Hogarth.  Of  the  Spanish 
School,  5  by  Diego  Velasquez,  and  4  by  Murillo.  Of  the  School  of  Italy,  3  by 
Giottino,  2  Gaddi,  2  Memmi,  Cimabue,  Bordono  ;  2  by  Leonardo  da  Vinci,  2 
Giorgione,  and  originals  by  Uccello,  Castagno,  Botticelli,  Pemgino,  Raphael. 
Ferrari,  Fra  Bartolomeo,  Titian,  Tintoretto,  Zucco,  Veronese,  Del  Piombo,  and 
Andrea  del  Sarto  ;  2  by  Mantegnn,  2  by  Correggio,  3  by  Annibale  Caracci,  and  ex- 
amples by  Romano,  Luini,  Bronzini,  Domenichino,  Guido,  Gentileschi,  Sas(sofer- 
rato,  Canaletto,  and  the  schools  of  Carlo  Dolci  and  Salvator  Rosa.  There  are 
about  CO  busts  and  pieces  of  statuary,  by  Brown,  Greenough,  Houdon,  Chantrey, 
Palmer,  Clevenger,  Mills,  Ives,  Ball,  Launitz,  and  the  Crawford  marbles. 

Returning  to  Broadway  and  passing  N.,  the  dry-goods  store  of  A.  T, 
Stewart  &  Co.  is  seen  on  the  r.  (comer  of  9th  St. ),  with  its  5  stories  of  iron 
and  glass,  and  15  acres  of  flooring.  It  is  the  largest  store  in  thevworld, 
and  its  sales  average  $  60,000  a  day.  There  are  about  2,000  employees  iu 
the  building,  and  the  salesrooms  extend  through  3  stories  (the  third  being 
devoted  to  carpets).    *  Grace  Churoh  and  Rectory  are  now  seen  on  the  r.. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


JUmUl      23 


Md  are  costly  marble  buildings  in  florid  Gothic  architecture.  The  lofty 
and  graceful  spire  is  much  admired  ;  and  the  interior  of  the  church,  with 
40  stained  windows,  light  columns,  arches,  and  carvings,  has  a  theatrical 
splendor.  At  Ihis  point  Broadway  bends  to  the  1 .,  —  passes  the  St.  Denia 
and  St.  Oemiain  Hotels,  and  the  Methodist  Book  Concern  (whose  lower 
floor  is  occupied  by  James  McCreery's  elegant  dry-goods  store),  —  and 
enters  Union  Square  between  the  lofty  building  of  the  Domestic  Sewing- 
Machine  Co.  and  Wallack's  and  the  Union  Square  Theatres.  Union 
Bquue  contains  a  pleasant  oval  park  3^  acred  in  extent,  with  green  lawns 
and  shrubbery,  and  a  population  of  English  sparrows  (imported  by  the 
city  to  exterminate  the  worms  on  the  trees).  Although  formerly  the 
most  fashionable  residence-quarter,  the  Square  is  now  lined  with  fine 
hotels  and  stores.  On  the  K  is  a  colossal  equestrian  *  statue  of  Wash- 
ington, which  is  much  admired ;  and  on  the  W.  is  a  bronze  statue  of 
Lincoln.  The  palatial  jewelry  s1»re  of  Tiff'any  k  Co.  is  on  the  comer  of 
W.  15th  St.  ;  and  on  the  next  square  is  Brentano's  "  literary  head-quar- 
ters" (foreign  magazines  and  papers).  Farther  up  Broadway  are  the 
great  dry-goods  stores  of  Arnold,  Constable,  &  Co.  (comer  of  19th  St.) 
and  Lord  k  Taylor  (comer  of  20th  St.). 

14th  St.  runs  E.  from  Union  Square  by  Steinway  Hall,  the  Academy 
of  Music,  Grace  Cliurch  Chapel,  and  Tammany  Hall  (the  head-quarters  of 
the  Democratic  party  in  N.  Y.);  and  to  the  W.  it  passes  through  a  line 
of  stores  and  offices.  The  *  Metropolitan  Xoieam  of  Art  has  been 
transferred  to  its  new  building  in  the  Central  Park. 

The  pictures  by  the  old  masters  are  of  undoubted  authenticity,  and  were  pur- 
chased in  Brussels  and  Paris  in  1870.  The  gallery  is  entered  by  passing  through 
tlie  old  conservatory  and  turning  to  the  r.  down  a  stairway.  1,  Adoration  of  the 
M.igl,  Van  der  Metre ;  2,  Descent  from  the  Cross,  Van  der  Weyden  ;  3,  •  Return 
of  the  Holy  Family  from  Egvpt,  Rubens ;  4,  Lions  chasing  Deer,  Rubens ;  5,  St. 
Martlia  at  Prayer,  Van  Dyck ;  6,  Portrait,  Van  Dyck ;  7,  Triumph  of  Bacchus, 
Jordaens;  8,  •Alexander  and  Diogenes,  G.  de  Grayer;  10,  Marriage  Festival, 
Teniers  the  Youn:ier ;  11,  Italian  Landscape,  Huysmani ;  13  and  14,  Landscapes, 
Breughel ;  15  and  10,  Landscapes,  Ryckaert ;  18  and  19,  Summer  and  Autumn, 
Vinckeboons ;  23  and  130,  Church  Interiors,  Neefs  the  Younger  ;  24,  Pasture,  Dm- 
meganck  ;  the  next  9  pictures  are  by  Horemans  ;  35,  Dives,  Franck«n  ;  36,  133, 
Combats  of  Cavalry,  Van  der  Meulen ;  87,  Interior  of  Antwerp  Cathedral,  Nee/s  ; 
83,  Temptation  of  St.  Anthony,  Teniers ;  40,  41, 124,  Genre  pictures  by  De  France  ; 
42,  Oust  of  Wind,  De  Mame ;  43,  Head  of  Christ,  Bouts;  45,  Old  Fiddler,  J.  Van 
Ojtade ;  66,  Sunset,  Van  der  Nur ;  47,  Smolcer,  A.  Van  Ostade ;  50,  Portrait,  Ter- 
b^trg ;  51,  Jacob  and  Laban,  Victors ;  52,  Italian  Landscape,  Both ;  53,  View  in 
Holland,  Hobbema ;  57,  58,  anc;  59,  by  Hugtenburgh ;  61,  Dutch  Kermesse.  Jan 
Steen ;  56,  Italian  Seaport,  Weenix ;  71,  The  Halt,  Wouvermans ;  73,  Fauns  and 
Nymphs  Bathing,  PoeUnburg ;  74,  75,  76.  Hunting  Scenes,  De  Vries  ;  80  and  81, 
Market  Scenes,  Gaet;  83,  Portrait,  Sir  Peter  Lely  ;  94-97,  Children's  Games,  AU 
bixni ;  98,  Portrait,  Paris  Bordone ;  103,  Comical  March,  Pater ;  104  and  105, 
Game  Pieces.  Gudry  ;  107. 108,  115,  Game.  Fyt;  109,  Banquet,  Hals;  110,  Dutch 
Kermesse,  Ruysdael ;  113,  Jewess  of  Tangier,  Spanish  School ;  116,  Environs  of 
Haarlem,  Van  Goyen  ;  118.  St.  John  and  the  infant  Jesus,  Jvrdaens ;  120,  Head 
of  a  Young  Girl,  Greuze ;  122,  Leda,  Van  der  Werff ;  123,  Mtidonna,  Sowo/ermto  ; 
126.  Portrait,  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds ;  127.  Jan  Steen  ;  129,  Tippler,  Van  Mieris ; 
U2,  Sketch,  VorciaMw;  185,  The  Crowning  with  Thorns,  Ti^^;  188,  Portrait, 


24     HouUl 


NEW  YOBK  CITY. 


rarndtrHOatj  180,  Mvthologloal.  W,  Pou$itn;  140,  The  BMTlflce  of  AVrthan, 
Ti^foto;  148,  Cruuiflxfon,  Boyermans;  144,  Portrait,  FranM  HaU;  145  and  146, 
Ven«tian  Views,  Guardi;  l&O,  Marine,  and  161,  View  of  Alkmaar,  Ruyidatl;  167, 
Bcce  Homo,  and  168,  Mater  Doloroea,  FlemUh  School ;  162,  Boar  Hunting,  Hoi^ 
divsj  166,  Fruit,  Wemix;  167,  Fitth,  Van  Btytren;  168,  Quay  at  Leyden,  Van  d«f 
Heyden;  170,  Train-bands  celebrating  Peace,  Hals;  171.  Fruit,  VelamnuM;  173, 
Portrait,  JDe  Vri«$  ;  174,  Conquest  of  the  Golden  Fleece,  Van  Diepenbttek. 

In  1866  Qeu.  di  Cesnola,  an  Italian  noble,  and  a  soldier  of  America  in  the  Secea* 
■Ion  War,  was  appointed  U.  B.  Consul  to  C*yprus.  He  soon  entered  with  ardor 
noon  the  task  of  opening  the  buried  Greek  and  Phoenician  cities  of  the  ancient 
island  ;  and  in  7  years'  labor  amid  the  rains  of  Citium,  Idalium,  Golgos,  and  Pa* 
phos,  unearthed  the  present  Ctmola  Collection.  TM  British  Museum  and  other 
European  coUeotors  attempted  to  secure  it,  but  the  Metropolitan  Museum  suc- 
ceeded in  gaining  the  prize.  The  antiquities  are  more  interesting  in  a  historical 
and  ethnological  than  an  Ksthetic  point  of  view.  The  conservatonr  contains  the 
statuary  fVom  the  temple  at  Golgos,  including  Hercules  and  the  high-priest  of 
Venus,  aqd  other  works,  —  Egyptian,  Phoenician,  Archaic,  and  later  Greek.. 
Among  the  other  otijects  in  the  collection  may  be  mentioned,  vnses  of  all  sixes, 
lamps,  arms,  and  utensils  of  bronze  and  copper,  pottery,  amphorae,  scarabni,  ie« 
pulchral  columns,  statuettes,  gold  and  silver  Jewelry,  gems,  votive  offerings,  and 
serpentine  and  alabaster  carvings.  There  are  also  groups  of  gold  mortuary  orna- 
ments, and  a  collection  of  1,672  pieces  of  Qifeek  glassware  from  the  tombs  at  Ida- 
lium and  Citium. 

The  moat  interesting  collections  of  the  Museum  are  those  that  are  left  on  loan 
by  the  wealthy  virtuosi  at  the  citj'.  Among  these  are  many  brilliaift  pictures  by 
the  American  masters ;  modem  statuary ;  Delft,  SSvres,  and  porcelain  wares : 
antique  and  mediaeval  curiosities  of  many  kinds  ;  carved,  inlaid,  and  mosaic  work  ; 
coins  and  medals,  etc.  Explanatory  catalogues  of  the  Cypriote  collections  and 
the  old  paintings  are  sold  at  the  door  (25c.  each). 

At  the  comer  of  14th  St.  and  6th  Ave.  is  the  armory  of  the  22d  Regi- 
ment ;  and  to  the  S.  on  6th  Ave.  is  the  Jefferson  Market,  near  the  new 
and  costly  court-house  and  jail  of  the  Third  District. 

University  Place,  runs  S.  from  Union  Square  to  the  N.  Y.  University, 
passing  the  N.  Y.  Society  Library  (near  12th  St.  ;  founded  in  1754; 
64,000  volumes;  closed  to  the  public),  and  the  Union  Theological  Semi- 
nary of  the  Presbyterian  Church,  with  11  professors,  117  students,  and  a 
library  of  33,000  volumes. 

7oart]i  Avenue  runs  N.  f^om  Union  Square.  16th  St.  diverges  to  the 
r.  to  Stuyvesant  Square  and  St.  Oeorge'a  Chwrch,  a  large  brown- stone  edi- 
fice in  Romanesque  architecture,  with  a  lofty  frescoed  ceiling,  and  twin 
spires  245  ft.  high.  This  is  perhaps  the  foremost  society  of  the  Low 
Church  Episcopalians  in  America,  and  is  under  the  care  of  S.  H.  Tyng, 
D.  D.  Stuyvesant  Square  was  part  of  the  old  "  Bowerie  "  estate  of  tho 
Dutch  Governor  Stuyvesant,  and  was  given  to  the  city  by  one  of  his  de- 
scendants. On  the  comer  of  2d  Ave.  and  13th  St.  is  the  tnmk  of  a  pear- 
tree  which  was  imported  by  Stuyvesant  from  Holland,  and  flourished  for 
200  years.  Farther  up  4th  Ave.  (comer  of  20th  St.)  is  the  Church  of  All 
Souls  {T>T.  Bellows;  Unitarian),  a  singular  structure  in  Italian  architec- 
ture, with  alternate  cpurses  of  brick  and  Ught-colored  stone.  (A  sliort  dis- 
tance to  the  r.  on  20th  St.  is  the  patrician  Gramercy  Park.)  On  the  next 
comer  is  the  Calvary  CThurch  (Epis.),  a  Gothic  building  of  brown-stone ; 
uid  near  by  is  Si.  PauTs  Church  (Meth.),  a  Romanesque  edifice  of  white 


N£W  YOWL  CITY. 


nouU  1.      25 


nmrble.  On  the  comer  of  4th  Avo.  and  23d  St.  if  the  Younff  MnCt 
Christian  AtMcitUion  Building,  a  larpe  and  costly  Renaissance  structure 
of  brown  and  Ohio  stone,  containing  a  toe  library,  reading-rooms,  parlors, 
a  gymnasium,  and  a  public  hall.  Strangers  will  meet  a  kindly  w«lc(  me 
here.  Opposite  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  is  the  elegant  •  Kational  Aoadamy  of 
Design,  built  of  gray  and  white  marbles  and  blue-stone  in  the  purer 
Gothic  forms  of  the  12th  century,  with  certain  features  copied  from  the 
\mt  Venetian  architecture.  It  has  an  imposing  entrance  and  stairway,  • 
leading  to  extensive  galleries,  where  every  spring  and  summer  are  held  ex- 
hibitions of  hundreds  of  the  recent  works  of  the  best  American  artista 
(admission  25c. ;  season-tickets,  |1).  ^     - 

Tlie  Snydara  Collection  is  here  on  permanent  deposit.  Among  the  pictures  are 
7  landrtcaiws  by  Buydam,  4  portroita  by  Huntington,  2  landncapes  by  M.Eutee,  S 
iiortriits  by  Stone,  4  landacaiws  by  Kensett,  3  by  HlcVfc,  2  by  Church.  Hubbard 
2,  Green  2,  Caallear  2,  Siiattnclc  8,  Kellog«  3,  Lang  2,  iart  2,  Cropaey  2,  Oiflford, 
Cliampney.  Durand.  Richai-ds,  Johnson,  Dana ;  Boughton  8,  Lamb  rtin  2.  Vrin 
2,  Lanibtlin  2,  Noel,  Uckel,  Mignot,  Guilleinin,  Diaz,  Flauira,  Achenbach,  and 
Ciilanic.  Besides  tliese  tliere  ure  several  copies  fW>m  antiques,  at  'I  the  oilginal 
Marriage  of  St.  Catherine,  by  Corregglo  (catalogues  in  th'  gallery  V 

E.  of  the  Academy  (on  23d  St.)  are  the  N.  Y.  College  of  Physida  ''  and 
Surgeons,  the  Demilt  Dispensary,  the  Ophthalmic  Hospital,  and  iln  Col- 
lego  of  the  City  of  N.  Y.  (comer  of  Lexington  Ave. :  824  students  ; 
10,000  vols,  in  library).  Passing  W.  along 23d  St.,  •  Midiion  Square  h 
soon  reached  (3  M.  from  the  Battei7),  a  bright  and  fashion-favored  park 
of  6  acres,  surrounded  by  club-houses  and  palatial  hotels  ( Fifth  Avenue, 
Hoffman,  Brunswick,  etc.  )>  and  adorned  with  a  monument  to  Gen.  Worth. 
2M  St.  runs  thence  to  the  Hudson  River,  passing  Booth's  Theatre,  with 
the  imposing  Masonic  Temple  on  the  opposite  corner,  and  the  Grand 
Opera  House  on  the  comer  of  8th  Ave.  Turning  to  the  1.  from  23d  St. 
down  9th  Ave.  to  20th  St.,  there  may  be  seen  the  plain  stone  buildings 
of  the  richly  endowed  and  flourishing  General  Theological  Seminary  of  the 
Episcopal  Church.  Broadway  rans  from  Madison  Square  N.  to  Central 
Park  in  2  M.,  passing  at  first  through  a  c^^^nter  of  hotels,  chief  among 
which  is  thd  picturesque  Stevens  House  (Ac  --*  :/ami,  comer  of  27th  St.). 
Beyond  Wood's  Museum  (comer  of  30th  St.)  and  the  stately  Congrega- 
tional Tabernacle  (comer  of  34th  St.),  a  divergence  to  the  1.  leads  to  the 
Manhattan  Market,  which  is  at  the  foot  of  W.  d4th  St.,  and  is  the  best 
building  of  the  kind  in  the  city.  It  was  built  in  1871,  aud  cost  about 
$1,250,000,  being  800  ft.  long  and.  200  ft.  wide.  The  view  from  the 
tower  (228  ft.  high)  up  and  down  the  Hudson  River  is  highly  commended. 
At  the  comer  of  Broadway  and  62d  St.  are  the  three  great  palaces  of  the 
Hotels  Newport,  Saratoga,  and  Albany,  French-flat  houses. 


26      Route  1. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


From  the  point  where  Broadway  reaches  the  Central  Park  (comer  of 
8th  Ave.  and  59th  St.)  a  grand  avenue  called  the  Bouleyard,  with  a 
parked  centre  and  graceful  curves,  runs  N.  to  the  Harlem  River.  It  is 
yet  new,  and  has  few  houses,  but  is  intended  for  the  Champs  Elys^es  of 
New  York.  At  73d  St.  is  passed  the  N.  Y.  Orphan  Asylum,  an  elegant 
Gothic  builduig  on  15  acres  of  ground  sloping  to  the  Hudson  (200  chil- 
dren). At  86th  St,  near  the  Riverside  Boulevard,  is  the  House  of 
Mercy,  with  its  fine  chapel.  It  was  founded  in  1854  by  the  Episcopal 
Church,  for  reforming  young  women,  and  is  under  the  care  of  the  Sistera 
of  St.  Mary.  The  Leake  and  Watts  Orphan  House  is  at  111th  St.,  and 
accommodates  250  children.  Near  this  point  is  the  new  Morning-side 
Park,  close  by  the  Bloomingdale  Asylum  for  the  Insane,  which  is  lo- 
cated among  pleasant  ganlens  covering  an  area  of  40  acres  (fronting  on 
115th  St.).  The  Boulevard  now  leads  by  market-gardens  and  rural  villas 
to  the  village  of  Manhattanville  (125th-  132d  St.),  which  extends  to  the 
verge  of  Harlem  Plains.  At  129th  St.  and  10th  Ave.  is  the  Sheltering 
Arms,  where  100  sick  and  needy  children  are  cared  for  by  the  Episcopal 
Sisters  of  St.  Mary.  Here  are  the  stately  buildings  ot  Manhattan 
College,  with  694  students  (in  all  departments)  and  48  professors.  It 
was  founded  by  the  Christian  Brothers  in  1853,  and  has  2  affiliated  acade- 
mies in  the  city,  —  the  Manhattan  Academy  (W.  32d  St.)  and  the  De  La 
Salle  Institute.  Near  the  college  is  the  great  Gothic  Convent  of  the 
Sacred  Heart.  Manhattanville  is  8|  M.  from  the  Battery ;  and  little 
more  than  1  M.  beyond  is  Carmansmlle  (formerly  owned  by  the  Carman 
family),  a  collection  of  villas  near  which  is  the  large  summer-resort  known 
as  the  •  Riverside  Hotels  fronting  the  Hudson.  On  155th  St.  is  Trinity 
Church  Cemetery,  where  are  buried  Bishops  Wainwright  and  Onderdonk, 
Philip  Livingston  (a  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence),  John 
Jacob  Astor,  and  Audubon,  the  naturalist.  On  14341  St.  are  the  elegant 
buildings  of  the  Colored  Orphan  Asylum;  near  151st  St.  is  the  Soldiers' 
Orphans'  Home;  and  at  the  foot  of  154th  St.  is  Audubon  Park,  a  collec- 
tion of  residences  on  the  former  grounds  of  the  great  naturalist. 

Audubon,  the  son  of  a  French  admiral,  was  bom  at  New  Orleans  in  1780, 
studied  painting  under  David  at  Paris,  and  travelled  nearly  all  over  the  U.  S.  for 
20  years,  with  rifle  and  pen&il,  gathering  material  for  "The  Birds  of  America,"  — 
a  work  in  4  volumes,  with  488  life-size  colored  plates.  It  was  flnished  in  1844, 
and  met  with  great  success.  It  was  called  by  Baron  Cuvier,  "  the  most  gigantic 
and  most  magnificent  monument  that  has  ever  been  erected  to  nature."  Audu- 
bon resided  at  this  place,  writing  other  great  works,  from  lb39  until  his  death  in 
1851. 

Carmansville  is  on  the  narrow  part  of  the  island,  on  the  S.  E.  slope  of  Mt. 
Washington  and  near  the  High  Bridge  on  Harlem  River  (the  Indian  Muscoota). 
Over  the  latter  is  the  site  of  the  Morris  House,  the  ancient  mansion  of  Ccl.  Morris, 
who. married  Mary  Philipse  (the  lady  who  declined  Washington's  attentions  iu 
1756),  and  afterwaixls  became  a  royalist  ofBcer.  The  Morris  House  overlooks  up- 
per N.Y.,  Long  Island,  and  the  Sound,  the  Harlem  River,  Astoria,  and  Flushing ; 
and  was  the  head-quarters  of  Washington  during  the  disastrous  campaign  of  ISept., 


NEW  YORK  ciry. 


Jtoute  1.      27 


^iw 


1776.  It  was  afterwards  occupied  for  many  years  by  Madame  Jamel,  the  widow 
of  Aaron  Burr.  Below  Carmansville  is  "  The  Grange,"  the  home  of  Alexander 
Hamilton,  situated  on  a  far-viewing  hill,  near  which  is  a  group  of  13  trees,  planted 
by  Hamilton,  and  named  after  the  original  States ;  the  South  Carolina  tree  alone 
grew  up  crooked. 

ifear  Carmansville  is  the  Clendenning  Valley,  which  is  crossed  by  an 
aqueduct  1,950  ft.  long  and  50  ft.  deep,  with  archways  for  3  streets.  N. 
of  Carmansville  is  Fort  Washington,  the  chief  summit  on  Manhattan 
Island  (238  ft.  high),  commanding  a  noble  *  view  over  the  upper  city,  the 
Hudson,  and  the  bold  opposite  heights  of  Fort  Lee.  It  is  now  occupied 
by  villas,  and  near  the  river  is  the  *  West  End  Hotel,  a  sumptuous  summer 
hotel,  with  ferry  to  the  Palisade-Mt.  House.  Upon  these  heights  is  the 
large  mansion  with  a  gilded  dome,  which  was  built  by  James  Gordon 
Beimett,  the  founder  of  the  "  N.  Y.  Herald."  The  Institution  for  the 
Deaf  and  Dumb  occupies  elegant  and  spacious  buildings  in  Italian  archi- 
tecture, surmounted  by  a  domed  tower,  and  is  near  the  Kingsbridge  Road 
(10  M.  from  the  Battery).  It  is  an  educational  establishment,  with  30 
teachers  and  400  students  (visitors  admitted,  1.30-4  daily).  Near  176th 
St.  is  the  N.  V.  Juvenile  Asylum,  with  dark  granite  buildings  in  a  park 
of  20  acres,  accommodating  over  500  children.  It  is  for  the  reformation 
and  protection  of  children  under  14  years  of  age,  and  has  sheltered  over 
13,000.  The  broad  Kingsbridge  Road  runs  N.  to  Kingsbridge  (15  M.  from 
the  Battery  ;  built  in  1693  by  Frederick  Philipse),  which  crosses  into  the 
lower  parts  of  Westchester  County,  recently  annexed  to  the  city  of  N.  Y. ; 
and  roads  run  thence  to  Yonkers  and  Fordham.  7  bridges  cress  the 
connected  tidal  inlets  of  Spuyten  Duyvil  Creek  and  Harlem  River,  N.  of 
Manhattan  Island;  of  which  2  are  for  railroads,  and  1  is  an  aqueduct. 
The  *  High  Bridge  is  a  structure  worthy  of  the  Roman  Empire.  It  is 
1,450  ft.  long  and  114  ft.  high,  is  supported  on  14  piers,  and  is  used  to 
carry  the  Croton  Aqueduct  across  the  Harlem  River.  It  is  11  M.  from 
the  Battery  (near  173d  St. ),  is  built  of  granite,  and  cost  $  900,000.  In 
this  vicinity  is  the  Century  Howe,  an  inn  which  was  built  about  the  year 
1750.  Above  the  bridge  is  a  costly  high-service  reservoir  and  stand-pipe. 
The  adjacent  shores  of  the  river  are  lofty  and  well  wooded,  and  very 
picturesque. 

Soon  after  the  battle  of  Long  Island,  the  American  army  marched  to  Kings- 
bri<lge,  leaving  Putnam  and  4,000  men  in  New  York  City.  Some  cannonading 
was  done  by  American  batteries  at  Catharine  Ferry  and  40th  St.  ;  and  on  Sept. 
15,  SirHenry  Clinton  crossed  the  East  River  with  4,000  men,  and  landed  at  34th 
St.  under  protection  of  the  hre  of  10  frigates.  The  New  England  brigades  of 
Pars(ms  and  Fellows  gave  way  in  confusion,  and  Clinton  advanced  skirmishing  to 
the  Incleberg  (between  5th  and  6th  Avenues  and  35th  and  38th  Sts.).  Putnam's 
4,000  men  in  the  city  were  now  cut  off;  but  while  the  British  g'^nerals  dallied  and 
rested  at  the  Murray  Hill  mansion,  Aaron  Burr  piloted  Putnam  up  the  W.  side  of 
the  island  to  Bloomingdale.  The  hostile  armies  now  confronted  each  other  on 
Harlem  Plains,  and  on  the  next  day  a  sharp  skirmish  occurred  at  M*Gowan's  Pass. 
The  Americans  threw  up  strong  works  on  the  heights,  from  which  (Sept.  20-21) 
they  saw  the  burning  of  New  York.    Unable  to  force  these  positions,  Gen.  Howe 


\ 


i 


23     itouut 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


pienaced  the  line  of  retreat  and  supplies  by  landing  large  bodies  of  troops  at  New 
Rochelle,  and  Wasliington  then  retreated  to  Furdhaiu  and  White  Plains.  Foi-t 
Washington  was  a  strong  worlc,  witli  20-30  cannon,  situated  on  the  highest  point 
of  Manhattan  Island  (l>etween  181st  and  180th  St.)>  and  garrisoned  by  3,000 
men.  Congress  had  ordered  tliat  Forts  Washington  and  Lee,  with  the  ol)8truc- 
tions  in  the  Hudson  between  them,  should  be  held  at  all  hazards.  But  the  Tort 
was  soon  environed  ;  the  Heet  ascended  the  Hudson  ;  and  on  the  morning  of  Nov. 
16,  1776,  a  combined  attack  was  made.  The  Hessians  and  Waldeckers  stormed 
Cockhill  Fort  and  Fort  Tryon  ;  Lord  Percy  drove  the  Marylanders  frnni  Manhat- 
tanvillo  ;  the  guards  and  grenadiei*s  drove  the  Jerseymen  from  Port  Gertrge  ;  and 
Stirling's  42d  Highlanders  landed  at  the  foot  of  152d  St.  and  carried  the  redoubt 
above.  The  Hessians  and  Highlanders  then  routed  the  Marylanders  at  Trinity 
Cluu'ch  Cemeteiy,  and  at  noon  the  Americans  had  all  been  crowded  into  Fort 
Washington.  That  citadel  was  surrendered  at  1  p.  m.,  with  2,000  Continentals 
and  GOO  militia.  The  Americans  lost  100  killed  and  wounded,  and  the  British 
'lost  nearly  1,000.  Washington  and  his  generals  witnessed  this  battle  and  sur- 
render from  Fort  Lee,  across  the  Hudson.  The  name  of  the  conquered  fortress 
was  changed  to  Fort  Knyphausen,  and  strong  lines  of  batteries  were  built  by  the 
victors  along  the  Harlem  River.  To  the  N.  extended  the  neutral  ground  of  West- 
chester County,  nearly  every  village  and  valley  of  which  was  thereafter  for  five 
years  alanned  by  hot  skirmishes  between  Delancey's  Loyalists  and  Simcoe's 
Queen's  Rangers  on  the  one  side,  and  the  New  England  and  N.  Y.  partisans  on 
the  other. 

Fort  Washington  is  most  easily  reached  by  taking  the  Elevated  Railway  from 
the  lower  part  of  the  city  and  riding  to  the  Hudson  River  R.  R.  station  at  80th 
St.,  whence  10-12  trains  daily  depart  for  Manhattan ville,  152d  St.,  Fort  Wash> 
ington,  Spuyten  Duyvil,  and  Tarrytown. 

Fifth  Avenne  begins  at  Washington  Square  and  runs  N.  to  Harlem 
River  in  6  M.  For  the  first  3  M.  (to  the  Central  Park  at  69th  St.)  it  is 
lined  with  houses  ;  from  59th  to  110th  St.  it  is  paved  with  wood,  and  has 
the  Park  on  the  1.,  and  on  the  r.  occasional  new  houses  on  land  of  im-> 
mense  value;  and  from  the  curve  around  the  rocky  heights  of  Mt.  Morris 
to  the  Harlem  River  (118th  to  135th  St.)  it  is  lined  with  villas.  Below 
Madison  Square  it  is  being  invaded  by  stores  and  hotels;  but  above  that 
point  it  is  chiefly  devoted  to  residences.  On  leaving  Washington  Square, 
the  Church  of  the  Ascension  (Epis.)  is  passed  on  10th  St.,  and  at  11th  St. 
is  the  Ist  Pres.  Church.  At  the  14th  St.  comer  is  Delmonico's  ("  the  best 
restaurant  in  the  world  "),  aUd  Union  Square  is  seen  to  the  r.  At  the 
15th  St.  corner  is  the  house  of  the  Manhattan  Club,  the  head-quarters  of 
the  patricians  of  the  Democratic  party  in  N.  Y.  ;  and  lo  the  E.  on  15th 
St. ,  near  4th  Ave.,  is  the  house  of  the  Century  Club,  which  includes  the 
leading  literati  and  artists  of  the  city.  To  the  1.  on  16th  St.  are  the  Italian 
Gothic  buildings  and  church' of  the  College  of  St  Francis  Xavler,  a  Jesuit 
institution  with  27  instructors  and  nearly  500  students.  Here  is  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Order  of  Jesus  in  New  York,  Canada,  and  tlie  Indian 
Missions  on  the  Lakes.  At  18th  St.  is  the  ornate  and  beautiful  build- 
ing of  Chickering  Hall,  devoted  to  music ;  and  the  cruciform  Gothic 
Church  of  the  Holy  Conmiunion  (Epis.)  is  at  the  corner  of  20th  St.  and 
6th  Ave.  At  20th  St.  is  the  house  of  the  wealthy  Union  Club ;  and 
at  21st  St.  is  the  S.  Dutch  Reformed  Church,  beyond  which  the  avenue 
passes  the  line  of  superb  hotels  on  the  W.  side  of  Madison  Square  and 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Route  1.      29 


crosses  Broadway  obliquely.  The  route  from  Madison  Square  to  the 
Central  Park  by  this  avenue  leads  through  the  most  aristocratic  and 
splendid  street  in  America,  forming  a  scene  of  unexcelled  brilli&iicy  and 
beauty,  especially  on  pleasant  Sundays  after  morning  service  and  late  in 
the  afternoon.  At  the  N.  E.  comer  of  Madison  Square  is  the  Hip- 
podrome, an  immense  building  accommodating  20,000  people  ;  and  at 
tl'.e  corner  of  E.  24th  St.  is  Dr.  Adams's  Presbjrterian  church.  In  this 
vicinity  are  the  houses  of  the  Eclectic  Club,  6th  Ave.  and  26th  St.  ;  the 
♦  Union  League,  Madison  Ave.  and  26th  St.  ;  the  N.  Y.  Yacht  Club  and 
the  American  Jockey  Club,  Madison  Ave.  and  27th  St.  ;  the  Travellers', 
222  5th  Ave. ;  and  the  Army  and  Navy  Club,  No.  8  28th  St.,  near  5t.h 
Ave.  Just  off  the  avenue,  ou  25th  St.,  is  Trinity  Chapel,  an  elegant 
edifice,  which  is  frescoed  and  lined  with  Caen  stone,  has  riclily  stained 
■windows,  and  is  famous  for  its  choral  services.  On  the  comer  of  27th  St. 
is  the  quaint  and  picturesque  Stevens  House.  28th  St  leads  oflF  to  the 
E.  to  Bellevue  Hospital  and  the  Moi^ue,  passing  St.  Stephen's  Church 
(near  Lexington  Ave.),  an  unattractive  building,  within  which  is  the  most 
elegant  marble  altar  in  America,  and  a  famous  altar-picture  of  the  Cruci- 
fixion. The  church  seats  nearly  4,000  people,  and  is  celebrated  for  its 
music.  At  the  comer  of  5th  Ave.  and  29th  St.  is  the  white  granite  edifice 
of  the  rich  Reformed  Church  ;  and  on  29th  St.,  just  E.*  of  the  avenue,  is 
the  quaint  and  irregular  Church  of  the  Transfiguration,  which  is  much 
used  for  fashionable  weddings,  and  is  faniiliarly  known  as  "  the  little 
church  around  the  corner."  Behind  tlie  pulpit  is  a  large  copy  of  Raphael's 
painting  of  the  Ascension.  On  the  comer  of  34th  St.  is  the  palace  of  the 
late  A.  T.  Stewart,  which  cost  $  2,000,000,  has  a  lai-ge  picture-gallery, 
and  is  the  finest  residence  in  America. 

Stewart  was  born  at  Belfast,  Ireland,  in  1802,  was  partly  educated  for  the  min- 
istry, came  to  N.  Y.  iu  1818,  was  an  assistant  teacher,  and  in  1823  opened  a  small 
trijiinungs  store.  He  worked  14-18  hours  a  day,  and  by  energy  and  tact  in- 
creased  liis  business  until  he  became  the  most  successful  merchant  in  the  world, 
and  was  wortli  s;^  30  -  ^  60,000,000.     He  died  in  April,  1876. 

34th  St.  leads  W.  to  the  Hudson  and  the  gi-eat  Manhattan  Market,  pass- 
ing the  Congregational  Tabernacle  (Dr.  W.  M.  Taylor),  and  the  turreted 
and  battlemented  buildings  of  the  N.  Y.  Institution  for  the  Blind.  At 
7th  Ave.  and  35th  St.  is  the  massive  and  loopholed  City  Arsenal;  at  the 
comer  of  9th  Ave.  and  31st  St.  are  seen  the  spacious  buildings  of  St. 
Michael's  Schools  ;  and  at  9th  Ave.  and  36th  St.  is  the  Gothic  building 
of  the  Northwestern  Dispensary.  E.  of  6th  Ave.,  34th  St.  runs  to  Park 
Ave.,  on  high  ground  which  is  underlaid  by  the  4th  Ave.  R.  R.  tracks, 
passing  through  a  tunnel  over  which  are  well-arranged  parks.  The  Uni- 
tarian Church  of  the  Messiah  fronts  on.  Park  Ave.,  and  has  a  very  elegant 
portal ;  and  is  near  the  spacious  Church  of  the  Covenant  (Pres.),  which  is 
buUt  of  gray-stone  in  Lombardo-Gothic  architecture.    In  this  vicinity 


[T 


!    I 


30      Jtoute  1. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


I::  :  I 


(corner  of  4th  Ave.  and  32d  St.)  is  a  vast  and  elegant  iron  building, 
erected  by  A.  T.  Stewart  for  a  home  for  working- women.  On  the  comer 
of  6th  Ave.  and  35th  St.  is  the  costly  and  ultra-ritualistic  Christ 
Church  (Epis. ),  with  its  renowned  artistic  music  and  elaborate  frescos ; 
while  the  plainer  Brick  Cliurch  (Pres.)  is  on  the  37th  St.  comer.  From 
40th  to  42d  Sts.  (on  Murray  Hill)  is  the  Dittribating  Beieryoir  of 
the  Croton  Aqueduct,  massi"ely  built  in  Egyptian  architecture,  14  ft. 
high  and  420  ft.  square,  wxih  an  area  of  4  acres  and  a  capacity  of 
23,000,000  gallons.  The  h  oi  I  promenade  on  top  is  open  to  the  public, 
and  commands  pleasing  v.  i^s.  Reservoir  Square  is  a  pretty  park  to  the 
W.  (the  fomier  site  of  the  Crystal  Palace) ;  and  the  French  Catholic  Col- 
lege of  SI.  Louis  is  farther  down  on  i'jid  St.,  beyond  th6  St.  Cloud  Hotel. 
Opposite  the  Reservoir  (on  6th  Ave.>  is  the  feudal  building  of  Rutgers 
Female  College,  founded  in  1838,  and  in  1867  made  a  college,  with  a  4 
years'  course  and  au  art  school.  It  is  to  be  removed  to  Moming-side 
Park.  Two  squares  to  the  E.,  on  42d  St.,  is  the  *  Grand  Central  Depot, 
the  convening  point  of  several  railroads,  and  the  finest  building  for  the 
purpose  in  America.  It  is  an  enormous  structure  of  brick,  stone,  and 
iron,  covering  3  acres  ;  and  its  W.  front,  692  ft.  long,  in  Renaissance 
architecture;  with  several  Louvre  domes,  is  said  to  resemble  the  Tuileries. 
Just  beyond  (on  42d  St.)  are  the  round  towers  and  pointed  windows  of 
the  Asylum  for  Cripples.  The  new  and  spacious  Church  of  the  Holy 
Trinity  (S.  H.  Tyng,  Jr.)  is  on  the  corner  of  Madison  Ave.  and  42d 
St.,  above  which  are  the  minaret-like  towers  and  gi'aceful  round  arches 
of  St.  Bartholoinew's-  Church  (Epis.),  which  has  an  inteiior  of  famed 
beauty.  On  the  next  comer  is  the  singular  round  building  of  corrugated 
iron  which  is  occupied  by  the  (Cong.)  Church  of  the  Disciples.  On  tbo 
comer  of  6th  Ave.  «»nd  43d  St.  is  the  Jewish  *  Temple  Emanuel,  the 
chief  of  the  27  synagogues  of  the  city,  and  the  finest  piece  of  Saracenic 
architecture  in  America.  It  has  some  features  borrowed  from  the  ancient 
Alhambra,  and  the  interior  is  a  dazzling  picture  of  Oriental  magnificence. 
At  the  S.  E.  comer  of  43d  St.  and  5th  Ave.  is  the  former  mansion  of 
Wm.  M.  Tweed,  the  head  of  the  Tammany  Ring.  On  the  45th  St.  cor- 
ner is  Dr.  Chapin's  Universalist  Church  of  the  Divine  Paternity,  nearly 
opposite  the  curious  front  of  the  Episcopal  Church  of  the  Heavenly  Rest. 
At  46th  St.  is  the  luxurious  Windsor  Hotel ;  and  at  48th  St.  is  the  new 
and  costly  Collegiate  Dutch  Reformed  Church. 

49th  St.  Ie<ads  off  to  the  E.  to  the  buildings  of  Columbia  College*  a  ven- 
erable and  Avealtliy  institution,  which  was  chartered  (as  King's  College)  by  Geoi-ge 
II.  of  England  in  1754.  It  is  the  oldest  college  in  the  State,  and  in  1849  was 
moved  I'rom  its  valuable  estate  in  the  lower  part  of  the  city  to  the  present  build- 
ings (which  were  formerly  occupied  by  the  State  Institution  for  Deai'-MutesX 
The  reports  of  1870  showed  — in  the  college  proper,  11  professors  and  147  stu- 
dents :  in  the  School  of  Law  (opposite  the  Astor  Library),  4  professors  and  204 
students ;  in  the  School  of  Medicine  (College  of  Physicians  and  Surgeons,  28d 


NEW  YORK  CITY, 


Route!,       31 


St.  and  4th  Ave).  10  professors  and  309  students ;  and  in  the  School  of  Mines 
(a  widely  renowned  Bcientillc  institution),  8  professors  and  93  students. 

The  Woman's  Hospital  of  the  fcJtate  of  K.  Y.  is  a  handsome  building  at  4th 
Ave.  and  SOtli  St,  and  is  the  only  hospital  in  America  whidi  is  devoted  to  that 
specialty.  The  Child's  Hospital  is  at  Lexin^^on  Ave.  and  50th  St.,  and  has  build* 
ings  ft)r  a  Children's  Ho.spitai,  Foundling  Asylum.  Lying-in  Asylum,  and  Nursery. 
A  brilliant  Charity  Ball  is  given  annu.illy  in  behalf  of  this  institution.  Near  the 
corner  of  2d  Are.  and  50th  St.  is  the  Greek  Church,  a  building  in  Saracenic  archi- 
tecture, wherein  the  impressive  Russo-Greelt  ritual  is  solcnmized.  At  the  comer 
of  Lexington  Ave.  and  47th  St  is  St.  Jlban'a,  the  most  advanced  Ritualistic  church 
in  America. 

At  the  comer  of  5th  Avenue  and  50th  St.  is  the  *  Cathedral  of  St. . 
Patrick  (Cath.),  which  is  to  be  the  finest  church  in  America.  It  was 
conimenced  in  1858,  and  is  now  nearly  completed.  The  building  occupies 
the  highest  point  on  the  avenue,  and  will  be  a  landmark  for  leagues.  It 
is  limily  founded  on  solid  ledges  tf  rock,  and  is  built  of  white  marble,  in 
the  decorated  Gothic  stylo  of  the  13th  century  (somewhat  resembling  the 
Cathedral  of  Cologne).  It  is  332  ft.  long  and  96  ft.  wide  (140  ft.  at  tho 
transepts) ;  and  the  front  is  to  be  guarded  by  two  marble  spires,  each  328 
feet  in  height,  adorned  with  statuary,  pinnacles,  and  rich  carvings,  and 
flanking  a  central  gable  1.5G  ft.  high.  The  interior  columns  of  marble 
support  a  high  clere-story ;  and  the  lofty  and  elegant  front  portal  (now 
complete)  is  wortl'.y  of  close  inspection.  N.  of  the  cathedral  is  the  Cath- 
olic Orphan  Asylum.  The  spacious  Church  of  St.  Thomas  (Epis. )  is  just 
above  (on  the  1.),  and  is  near  St.  Luke's  Hospital,  a  refuge  for  the  sick 
without  regard  to  sect  or  nation  (no  contagious  or  chronic  diseases  al- 
lowed ;  patients  who  are  able  pay  $  7  a  week).  It  is  under  the  care  of 
the  Episcopal  Sisters  of  the  Holy  Communion,  whose  members  pass  a 
disciplinary  novitiate,  and  then  enter  the  order  for  3  years'  service,  after 
which  they  are  free,  if  they  .?o  desire.  At  55th  St.  is  the  new  Presby- 
terian CHiurch  ^Dr.  Hall's;,  the  largest  of  chat  sect  in  the  world.  The 
ground  cost  $350,000,  and  tlie  building  has  cost  $500,000.  At  59th  St. 
is  the  Scholars'  Gate  to  the  Central  Park.  Near  the  S.  E.  comer  of  the 
Park,  the  Central  Park  Hotel  is  to  be  erected.  W.,  on  59th  St.  (which 
skirts  the  Park),  is  the  lofty  new  building  of  Charter's  French  Institute, 
near  the  Central  Pavk  gardens  (orchestral  music).  On  59th  St.,  near  the 
Hudson  River,  \6  the  vast  and  ornate  Roosevelt  Hospital  (founded  by  the 
late  James  H,  Roosevelt) ;  and  ^  M.  S.  (comer  9th  Ave.  and  49th  St.)  is 
the  Convent  of  the  Order  of  Paulists. 

Pasping  N.  on  5th  Ave.  from  59th  St.,  the  Central  Park  is  on  the  1.  for 
2i  M.  Tlie  avenue  is  but  partially  built  up,  on  account  of  the  great  price 
of  the  land.  To  the  r.,  on  Lexington  Ave.  (at  55th  and  63d  Sts.),  are 
2  new  and  costly  synagogues,  with  powerful  organs.  The  *  Park  Museum 
is  passed  at  64th  St.;  and  at  70th  St.  (near  the  Children's  Gate)  is  the 
*Lonox  Library,  a  new  and  stately  marble  building,  costing  $900,000, 
and  designed  for  the  reception  of  a  museum,  art-gallery,  library,  and 


'^ 


32      MouUL 


NEW  YORK  CITT. 


,1 
m 
h-4 


lecture  hall.  Qose  by  Is  the  Lenox  ffoapitcU  (Presbyterian),  a  quaint  and 
oniate  brick  and  stone  structure,  with  tall  and  slender  spires.  $500,000 
-was  given  to  this  institution  hy  James  Lenox,  the  mujiiiicent  founder  of 
the  library.  A  few  rods  distant,  on  the  old  Hamilton  Square  (and  built 
at  a  cost  of  $  890,000),  is  the  spacious  and  imposing  new  structure  of  the 
Homial  College,  in  the  secular  Gk>chjc  style,  with  a  lofty  usul  ai^issivo 
Victoria  tower.  The  Foundlirg  Hospital  is  still  farther  E. ;  aiui  in  pkria 
sight  is  the  Mount  Sinai  Hospital  (Jewish),  a  cluster  of  ba*^- lings  vi 
Elizabethan  architecture,  erected  at  a  cost  of  $  340,000.  The  \mt  Ger- 
man park  and  beer-garden  called  «/bne«'£  Wood  is  ;>till  farLher  E.,  at  the 
river-side,  and  looks  across  on  Blackwell's  IsJaad.  The  Colored  Home  is 
at  the  foot  of  64th  St,  near  the  East  River ;  and  the  Baptist  Old  Ladies* 
Homo  is  on  the  comer  of  68th  St.  and  4th  Ave.  At  78d  St.  and  Madison 
Ave.  is  the  Presbyterian  Home  for  Aged  Women  ;  at  77th  St.  and  M 
Ave.  f «?  the  Hebrew  Oiphan  Asylum  ;  i.nd  at  79ih  St.  and  4th  Ave,  is  the 
German  Hospit>J.  Near  80th  St.,  the  Belvedere  Tc^ver  U  seen  to  the  l, 
in  the  Park;  m.'l  beyond  tlxis  are  the  embankments  of  the  reservoir.  At 
81st  St,  and  Mat'isoa  Av??,  is  the  Convent  of  St.  Catharine,  occupied  by 
the  Sisters  of  Mercy,  and  .sun-ounded  by  auxiliary  charitable  institutions. 
At  86th  St.  anti  Madiso:>  Ave.  is  the  Shepherd's  Fold,  lor  poor  children  ; 
and  at  5th  Ave,  and  o9th  St.  is  the  Magdalen  Benevolent  Institution.  At 
88th  St.  and  Madison  Ave.  is  St.  Luke's  Home  for  Indigent  Christian 
Females,  a  fine  Gothic  building,  adjoining  the  new  memorial  Church  of 
the  Beloved  Disciple.  Farther  E.,  on  89th  St.,  is  the  Convent  of  Notre 
Dame,  near  St*  Josepj|i's  Orphan  Asylum  and  the  House  of  the  Good 
Shepherd,  with  about  500  women  who  have  been  reclaimed  from  the  evil 
life,  and  are  cared  for  by  80  sisters.  Near  105th  St,,  Mount  St.  Vincent 
and  the  Great  Hill  are  seen,  on  the  I.  of  5th  Ave. ;  and  the  avenue  soon 
leaves  the  Park,  and  enters  an  undulating  and  picturesque  region.  At 
118th  St.  it  reaches  Mount  Morris^  the  park  of  Harlem,  and,  curving 
around  its  rugged  basfi,  passes  on  to  Harlem,  a  large  and  populous  vil- 
lage on  the  Harlem  ..liver,  with  several  fine  churches  and  a  lucrative 
manufacturing  industry.  An  iron  bridge  crosses  the  Harlem  Eiver  at  this 
point,  near  which  a  large  ilotilla  of  pleasure-boats  is  kept  for  hire,  and 
the  steamboats  for  Peck  Slip  and  High  Bridge  are  moored.  Horse-cars 
run  from  Harlem  to  Manhattanville.  From  the  N.  side  of  the  bridge 
horse-cars  nm  to  Morrisania,  Tiemont,  and  Fordham  (45  min.  ;  10c.), 
traversing  a  dull  and  uninteresting  wooden  suburb,  inhabited  chiefly  by 
Germans. 


1  "1 


CENTRAL  PARK. 


Old  A  rstnal  and  Mustum, 

Marble  A  rch. 

Statues  of  Scott  and  Shake- 
speare. 

Casino. 

Music  Pavilion. 

Terrace. 

Bow  Bridge. 

Balcony  Bridge* 

The  Knoll. 

The  Great  Hill. 

Old  Forts. 

The  Pooh 

The  Cascade. 

Scholars*  Gate. 

Artists^       " 

Artisans*    " 

Merchants* " 

WomenU    " 

Hunters*      " 

Mariners*   " 

Gate  of  All  Saints. 

Boys*  Gate. 

Children* s  Gate. 

Miners*         " 

Strangers*  " 

Wocdmen*s  " 

Girls*  " 

Farmers*     " 

Warriors*    '* 

Lenox  Library. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


ItouU  1.      33 


*  *  Central  Park. 


points 

^Atllll v- 

4  p.  M.  in  summer,  are  the  favorite  hour*  for  citizens  to  visit  the  Park.  On  sum- 
mer afternoons  (especially  Sundays)  the  promenades  and  driveways  are  thronged 
with  people  ;  and  during  winter  tiiero  are  brilliant  sltating-carnivals  on  the  frc  ieii 
lal;e3  (skates  may  be  hired  at  the  adjacent  cottages).  The  Park  is  reached  by 
either  of  several  horse-car  lines  ftom  the  Astor  House  and  the  lower  part  of  the 
city. 

Near  the -SfcAo^ar'a  Cate  (6th  Ave.  and  59th  St.)  is  a  colossal  bronze 
bust  of  Humboldt,  the  gift  of  the  German  citizens  of  N.  Y.  On  tlie  1.  ia 
the  irregular  sheet  of  water  called  the  Pond,  lying  between  rugged  hills, 
and  covering  5  acres.  It  is  a  favorite  skatiug-ground  in  winter,  and  is 
much  visited  by  the  Scottish  admirers  of  the  curling-game.  To  the  W. 
is  the  Play  Ground,  which  extendi  nearly  to  the  bronze  statue  of  Com- 
merce, by  the  Merchants'  Gate  (8th  Ave.).  N.  of  the  Pond  is  the  Dairy 
(light  refreshments),  the  Carrousel  (children's  amusements),  and  the  base- 
ball ground.  Near  5th  Ave.  is  the  *  Amerioan  Museum  of  Natural 
History,  occupying  the  massive  castellated  building  formerly  used  as  the 
State  Arsenal. 

The  Zoological  Garden  is  arranged  outside  the  Museum,  and  includes  lions, 
^igers,  leopards,  camels,  giraffes,  buffalo,  bears,  wolves,  hyenas,  and  muuy  other 
rare  animals.  Those  from  the  tropical  regions  are  kept  in  a  large  warm  hall  dur- 
ing the  winter  season ;  but  the  hardier  animals  of  the  North  weather  the  cold 
montiiS  in  their  cages  in  the  open  air.  In  front  of  the  building  are  large  aviaries 
filled  with  pigeons  and  bald  eagles  ;  also  families  of  monkeys  and  tropical  birds. 
The  Museum  has  been  gatliercd  on  tlie  nucleus  of  tlie  famous  collection  of  the 
Archduke  Maximilian,  and  includes  12,000  prepared  biixls,  3,000  reptiles  and 
fishes,  and  1,000  mammals.  The  first  floor  has  several  cases  filled  witli  S.  Ameri- 
can birds  ;  also  statues  of  Columbus  and  Wasliington  ;  and  the  celebrated  group 
of  an  Arab  courier  and  camel  attacked  by  lions.  On  the  second  floor  aro  the  birds 
of  Africa,  6  cases  of  crania  and  slcelutons,  fish,  reptiles,  fossils,  mineials,  corals, 
shells,  butterflies,  moths,  beetles,  ancient  stone  implements,  insects  and  their, 
arcliitecture,  lichens,  and  polished  building-stones.  On  the  third  floor  are  large 
and  brilliant  collections  of  birds,  deer,  monkeys,  rodents,  and  marsupial  and  car- 
nivorous animals.  On  the  upper  floor  are  the  costly  and  ingenious  instruments 
of  the  Meteorological  Observatory.  The  Museum  is  open  to  the  public  except  on 
Mondays  and  Tuesdays,  wlieu  permits  to  enter  must  be  obtained  at  the  office  of 
the  Departmettt  of  Public  Parks,  No.  3U  Union  Square. 

The  paths  from  the  gates  on  59th  St.  lead  to  the  Marble  Arch,  a  costly 
piece  of  masonry  over  which  passes  the  driveway.  The  landscapes  in 
the  lower  part  of  the  grounds  are  of  cultured  beauty ;  and  the  rambles 
and  drives  conduct  by  graceful  curves  and  passing  picturesque  knolls  and 
groves,  bridges  and  arbors,  to  *  The  Mall,  the  chief  promenade  ot  the 
Park.  It  is  1,212  ft.  long  and  208  ft.  wide,  and  is  bordered  by  double 
lines  of  large  American  elms.  At  the  entrance  to  this  noble  esplanade 
2*  0 


^ 


31      Jiouie  1. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


1:1  l|! 
i 


are  fine  bronze  *  statues  of  William  Shakespeare  and  Sir  Walter  Scott; 
and  other  groups  and  statues  are  seen  at  various  points.  At  the  Music 
Pavilion,  near  the  upper  end,  bund  concerts  are  given  on  pleasant  Satur- 
day afternoons  in  summer,  and  at  such  times  the  vicinity  is  filled  witli  a 
gay  and  varied  crowd.  'I'o  the  N.  E.  and  above  the  Pavilion  is  a  long 
trellis-work  overlooking  the  Terrace  and  Lake,  and  draped  with  flowering 
vines.  To  the  E.  of  the  Vine-covered  Walk  (beyond  the  carriage-con- 
covirse)  is  the  Casino,  a  restaurant  of  good  repute  ;  and  towards  5th  Ave. 
is  a  group  of  statuary  in  sandstone,  called  "  Auld  Lang  Syne."  Near  the 
latter  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Prof.  S.  F.  B.  Morse,  which  was  erected  by 
the  Telegraph  Operators'  Association.  W.  of  the  Mall  is  the  broad  lawn 
called  the  Green  (containing  15  acres),  above  which  is  a  pavilion  for  the 
sale  of  mineral  waters.  The  Mall  is  terminated  by  *  Tho  Terrace,  a 
sumptuous  pile  of  masonry  (of  Albert  freestone),  with  frescoed  and  carved 
arcades  and  corridors,  broad  pronienades,  costly  and  elaborate  screen-work 
in  stone,  and  high  pedestals,  which  are  to  be  graced  with  symbolic  statu- 
ary. Broad  stone  stairways  lead  thence  to  the  Lower  Terrace,  a  highly 
ornamented  esplanade  by  the  side  of  the  Central  Lake.  In  its  centre  is 
the  most  costly  *  fountain  on  the  continent,  with  bronzes,  great  mono- 
lithic  basins,  and  a  colossal  statue  of  the  Angel  of  Bethesda.   • 

Central  Lake  covers  20  acres,  and  is  divided  into  two  parts  (that  to  the 
W.  being  the  larger),  wliich  are  joined  by  a  narrow  strait,  over  which  is 
thrown  the  graceful  Bow  Bridge  (for  pedestrians  only  ;  often  called  the 
Flower  Bridge,  from  the  abundance  of  its  floral  decorations). 

The  Lake  occupies  the  site  of  a  swamp,  and  is  filled  with  Croton  water  (7  ft. 
deep  in  summer ;  4  ft.  m  winter).  Omnibus  boats  carry  visitors  about  it  for  10c. 
each  ;  and  private  boats  may  be  hired  at  a  tariff  fixed  by  tlie  Commissioners.  The 
boats  may  be  left  at  any  of  the  G  landings  on  the  sliores.  Tlie  scene  here  on 
mooidight  summer  nights,  when  tho  boats  cany  colored  liglits,  is  wortliy  of 
Venice  ;  and  tlirongs  of  merry  sl^aters  occupy  the  ice  during  the  winter  days, 
and  prolong  their  sports  by  the  light  of  numenius  gas-jets  with  strong  reflectors. 
More  pedestrians  visit  the  Park  in  winter  than  in  summer,  attracted  by  the 
sliating  ;  and  large  temporary  refreshment  siiioons  are  erected  near  the  Lake  for 
their  benefit.  The  swans  are  a  notable  feature  here,  and  were  presented  by  the 
city  of  Hamburg  and  the  Worshipful  Companies  of  Vintners  and  Dyers  of"  Lou- 
don.   They  thrive  and  increase,  and  endure  the  cold  of  the  severest  winters. 

The  W.  arm  of  the  Lake  is  crossed  by  the  massive  Balcony  Bridge  ; 
and  on  the  slopes  N.  of  the  Lake  is  the  Bamble,  a  tract  of  aSG  acres  of 
copse  and  lawn,  rock-work,  and  retired  nooks,  threaded  by  a  labyrinth  of 
romantic  foot-paths.  The  statue  of  Schiller  is  near  the  lake-shore  ;  on 
the  W.  are  the  Grotto  anil  the  Stone  Arch  ;  and  on  the  E.  are  the  Ever- 
green Walk  and  the  Dovecot.  S.  of  the  latter  (near  5th  Ave.)  is  the  Con- 
servatory Lake,  near  the  large  new^  conservatory  and  flower-garden.  N. 
of  t&e  Ramble  is  the  *  Belvedere,  a  loftily  situated  cluster  of  quaint 
structures  in  Norman  architecture,  built  of  massive  masonry,  and  resem- 
bling some  ancient  Bhemsh  castle.    The  view  from  the  tower  is  broad 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Jloute  1,       35 


1 


I 


and  pleasing,  including  a  large  p<  4on  of  the  Park,  the  K  and  W.  suburbs 
of  New  York,  and  the  great  archer  of  the  High  Bridge  over  and  far  be^ 
yond  the  Reservoirs.  The  Old  Reservoir  is  just  above  the  Belvedere,  and 
covers  31  acres.  It  is  105  ft.  above  the  tide,  contains  150,000,000  gallons 
of  Croton  water,  and  is  surrounded  by  ponderous  walls  of  masonry. 
Above  this  artificial  lake,  and  separated  from  it  by  the  transverse  road 
(or  sub-way)  of  86th  St.,  is  the  New  Reservoir,  a  massive  granite  struc- 
ture covering  106  acres,  and  holding  1,000,000,000  gallons.  The  gate- 
houses are  fine  stone  buildings  in  which  is  kept  the  powerful  machinery 
of  the  water- works.  Above  the  New  Reservoir  is  the  Upper  Park,  which 
is  less  visited  and  has  less  artificial  embellishment  than  the  Lower  Park, 
but  is  richer  in  marked  natural  beauties.  Passing  the  broad  plains  called 
the  East  and  West  Meadows,  on  the  E.  is  seen  Mount  St.  Vincent,  on 
which  are  the  buildings  formerly  occupied  by  the  Mother  House  and  Con- 
vent of  the  Sisters  of  Charity.  A  large  restaurant  is  now  located  here  ; 
and  the  chapel  contains  87  casts  from  the  statuary  of  Crawford  (presented 
by  his  widow).  To  the  E.  is  the  Arboretum  ;  and  to  the  W.  is  Harlem 
Lake  (covering  16  acres),  with  its  bold  S.  shore  lined  with  the  remains  of 
old  fortifications.  A  pretty  falling  stream,  spanned  by  5  bridges  and 
abounding  in  cascades,  enters  Harlem  Lake  after  running  N.  E.  down  the 
ravine  called  M'Qowan's  Pass.  Over  the  Pass  is  the  Great  Hill,  on  whose 
summit  is  a  carr.vige-concourse,  whence  a  broad  view  is  gained;  and  the 
Bluff  ii  a  bold  ridge  which  terminates  the  Park  on  the  N.,  and  bears  the 
remains  of  old  forts  and  field-works. 


The  great  buildings  for  the  Museum  of  Arts  and  the  Museum  of 
Natural  History  are  far  advanced  towards  completion.  They  are  of 
brick,  with  stone  trimmings,  and  have  no  architectural  attractions. 
They  are  to  cost  over  $  6,000,000.  When  completed,  each  of  them  is  to 
have  the  form  of  the  letter  H,  of  which  only  the  cross-bar  is  now  under 
construction.  The  Natural- History  building  is  N.  W.  of  the  Lake,  on 
Manhattan  Square,  near  8tli  Ave.,  and  is  to  be  opened  in  1879,  with  tlie 
collections  now  in  the  Old  Arsenal,  great  arcliaeological  and  ethnological 
museums,  and  other  invaluable  treasures  of  science  and  antiquity.  Tiie 
Art  building  is  on  the  5th -Ave.  side,  near  82d  St.,  and  has  been  severely 
criticised.  It  will  be  opened  late  in  1879,  and  will  perhaps  receive  bonie 
of  the  collections  now  in  the  Metropolitan  Museum.  The  Lenox  Library 
is  near  this  building.  In  the  vicinity  of  and  under  the  advantages  of 
these  immense  museums  and  libraries  it  is  expected  that  one  of  the  fore- 
most universities  of  the  world  will  be  established. 

Among  the  ornaments  which  have  more  recently  been  added  to  the 
Park,  the  foremost  is  the  colossal  *  statue  of  Daniel  Webster^  which  was 
made  in  Italy  (at  a  cost  of  $65,000),  and  rests  on  a  block  of  Quincy 


35  a   Route  t. 


NEW  YOKK  CITY. 


m 

.,-:.!  I'll 


granite  weighing  80  tons.  It  occuplen  a  prominent  positior  vherT  the 
diive-way  on  the  W.  side  passes  the  S.  bay  of  the  Lake,  not  fn:  from  the 
Terrace.  On  a  jutting  roclc  between  tliis  point  and  the  Terrace  is  one  t»f 
tlie  most  graceful  and  spirited  worlcs  of  art  in  the  Parlt,  the  *  Falcrmer, 
a  bronze  statue  7  ft.  high  (cast  in  Florence)  representing  a  young  man 
clad  in  doublet  and  hose,  with  a  falcon  poised  for  flight  on  his  out- 
stretched left  hand.  Near  the  drive-way  between  this  point  and  the  8th- 
Ave.  Gate  is  a  colossal  bronze  statue  of  a  soldier,  erected  in  memory  of 
the  men  of  the  7th  N.  Y.  Regiment  who  died  in  the  secession  war.  The 
pedestal  is  adorned  with  bronze  trophies.  Near  the  S.  end  of  the  Mall  is 
a  large  bronze  group  by  J.  Q.  A.  Ward,  representing  an  Indian  hiuiter 
and  his  dog.  Farther  to  the  N.  is  a  group  of  large  birds  of  prey,  in 
bronze ;  beyond  which,  and  near  the  terrace,  is  a  bronze  group  (by 
Auguste  Caine)  representing  a  tigress  giving  food  to  her  cubs.  Near  the 
Mall  are  to  be  erected  statues  of  Robert  Bums  (opposite  Scott),  Daniel 
O'Connell,  and  others.  The  French.  Governnjent  has  given  to  the  city  of 
New  York  a  noble  bronze  statue  of  Lafayette  (by  Bartholdi ;  costing 
9  30,000),  representing  him  as  standing  upon  the  bulwark  of  the  ship, 
on  the  way  to  America.  It  is  now  in  New  York,  and  will  soon  be  erected 
in  the  Park.  There  are  also  colossal  busts  of  Goethe  and  William  Culleu 
Bryant  now  in  the  city,  destined  for  the  Park.  Other  statues  for  which 
subscriptions  are  being  made  are  those  of  Thomas  Moore,  Fitz-Greene 
Halleck,  Cervantes,  and  Irving,  —  the  latter  of  which  will  be  accom- 
panied by  statues  of  Rip  Van  Winkle  and  Diedrich  Knickerbocker. 

The  Belvedere  tower  commands  a  view  to  the  S.  down  the  Mall,  over 
whose  1.  side  is  the  great  white  mass  of  the  Cathedral,  broken  by  the  towers 
of  St.  Thomas's  Episcopal  and  the  Fifth- Ave.  Pres.  churches.  To  the  r. 
are  the  distant  and  manifold  towers,  spires,  and  domes  of  New  York,  with 
the  Louvre  dome  of  the  Post-Office,  the  Tribune  tower,  and  Trinity  spire. 
Farther  to  the  r.  are  the  pinnacles  of  the  Roosevelt  Hospital,  with  the 
Hudson  on  the  r.,  over  which  are  the  Hoboken  heights,  crowned  by  the 
three-domed  church  of  the  Passionist  convent.  The  long  Orange  Moun- 
tain is  far  beyond.  Close  at  hand  on  the  W.  is  the  Miiseum  of  Natural 
History,  a  five-story  brick  building  over  and  on  each  side  of  which  are 
the  shanties  towards  the  Boulevard.  The  long  and  massive  line  of  tlie 
Palisades  runs  to  the  N.,  and  suddenly  breaks  down,  precipitously,  be- 
yond the  light-colored  walls  of  t*he  Palisades  Mountain  House.  On  the  r. 
of  the  Hudson  valley  are  tlie  Fort- Washington  Heights,  with  the  dark 
convent  of  the  Sacred  Heart ;  and  to  tlie  r.  of  the  lofty  stand-pipe  are 
the  arches  of  the  High  Bridge.  The  hilly  districts  of  the  old  Westchester 
towns  appear  over  the  reservoirs,  with  Harlem  on  the  r.,  ilanked  by  the 
broad  waters  of  the  Sound.  To  the  r,  of  the  Gothic-windowed  Art  build- 
ing are  the  hills  and  villages  of  Long  Island,  and  then  the  eye  rests  on  the 


NEW   YOLK  CITY. 


liouU  1.    35  h 


nearer  clnnter  of  the  Lenox  HoMpital,  Normal  College,  and  Mt.  Sinai  Hos* 
I>iful,  with  the  white  Lenox  Lil)rAry  on  tlicir  r.  Just  to  the  r.  of  tlie 
library  arc  the  many  fi])ireM  and  domes  of  Broc'clyn. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  objects  now  seen  from  Mt.  8t.  Vinoent  is 
the  long  and  massive  railroad  viaduct,  on  the  E.  Among  the  casts  in 
tlie  beautiful  little  chapel  are  those  of  the  Wasliington  Monument  at 
Richmond,  Jefferson,  Lincoln,  Otis,  Ori>heus,  Hebe,  Aurora,  Apollo, 
Diana,  Cupid,  Flora,  Herodias,  David,  Psyche,  Adam  and  Eve,  Mercury, 
the  Angel,  and  numerous  bas-reliefs  and  Indian  statues.  Below  the 
cliapel  arc  several  Esquimaux  boats,  cannon  recovered  from  H.  B.  M. 
frigate  I/ussar,  shot  fired  into  and  from  Charleston,  and  other  curiosities. 

In  1861  a  movement  was  nmile  to  secure  a  park  for  tlie  citizens  of  N.  Y.,  and 
Powninf?,  the  eminent  lanilHcaite-ganlener,  advocated  it  with  fluent  pen.  In  1866 
the  }>resent  8ito  of  tlie  Park  was  a  dreary  and  desolate  j-cKion  uf  Bwamps  and 
ledges,  disfigured  with  heaps  of  cinders,  potsherds,  and  rui)tii»h,  denuded  of  all 
vegetation  except  tangled  thickets,  and  dotted  with  the  squalid  shanties  of  rudo 
and  degradetl  squatters.  In  that  year  the  work  began  whicli  has  given  the  city 
the  most  lienutilul  ami  one  c»f  the  largest  of  the  parks  of  the  world.  It  is  a  par- 
allelogram, 2^  M.  long  and  k  M.  wide;  and  is  nearly  5  M.  N.  of  the  Battery,  and 
1  M.  irom  the  rivej-s  on  eitlier  side.  It  includes  802  acres,  of  which  186  are  cov- 
ered witli  water  (45  acres  of  lakes  and  142  of  reservoir.s).  There  are  9- 10  M.  of 
carriage-roads,  0  M.  of  bridle-paths,  and  26  M.  of  wall<s ;  while  communication 
across  the  island  is  confined  to  4  sunken  roads  which  pass  from  E.  to  W.  through 
tlie  Park  and  under  its  drive-ways.  In  1870  the  boats  on  the  Lake  were  used  by 
ll.'),082  visitors ;  and  112,246  patronized  the  Park  carriages.  200,000  trees  and 
shrubs  have  Iteen  )>lanted  here,  many  of  which  were  transplanted  when  quite 
lai-ge.  In  1873  the  Park  was  visited  by  10,160,159  jteople,  of  whom  4,868,620  were 
on  foot,  60,055  on  horseback,  and  the  rest  were  in  1,711,528  carriages.  Tlie  cost 
of  tlie  Pork,  up  to  Jau.  1,  1874,  was  9 13,902,515. 

Through  M'Gowan's  Pass  led  the  "  Old  Boston  Road,"  the  first  road  out  of  N. 
T.  on  the  E. ;  and  by  this  route  the  Huguenots  of  New  Rochelle  came  on  Sunday 
to  the  French  Church  in  the  city.  In  the  disastrous  September  of  1776,  this  vi- 
cinity was  the  shelter  and  rallying  point  of  tlie  demoralized  American  army.  Af- 
ter the  British  army  had  landed  at  23d  St.  (East  River),  the  American  rearguard, 
under  Putnam,  retreated  hastily  from  the  lower  part  of  the  island,  and  were  en- 
gaged In  the  present  Upper  Park  by  the  enemy's  light  infantry.  The  next  day 
Gen.  Leslie  advanced  through  M'Gowan's  Pass,  drove  back  the  American  pickets, 
and  deployed  on  Harlem  Plains.  The  Continental  troops  soon  attacked  Leslie's 
men.  but  Col.  Knowlton  fell  while  leading  the  Conn.  Rangers,  and  Maj.  Lcitch 
was  pierced  by  3  bullets  while  charging  with  the  Virginians.  The  Maryland  line 
then  came  to  the  rescue,  and  the  British  were  driven  back  across  the  Plains  with 
severe  losses.  But  they  held  and  fortified  M'Gowan's  Pass,  from  which  they  were 
not  dislodged.  Most  of  the  fortifications  now  found  in  the  Upper  Park  were 
erected  in  the  War  of  1812. 

The  East  Biver. 

The  best  way  to  see  the  East  River  villages  and  islands,  Harlem,  and  the  High 
Bridge,  is  to  take  the  steamboat  from  Peck  Slip  (at  the  foot  of  Beekman  St.,  and 
a  short  distance  above  Fulton  Ferry).  These  boats  make  10  trips  dailv  (fare,  10c. ), 
stopping  at  11th  and  120th  Sts.,  and  connect  with  steamers  for  High  Bridge. 

Passing  out  into  the  stream  between  the  crowded  shores  of  Brooklyn 
and  New  York,  forests  of  masts  are  seen  on  either  side;  the  tall  piers  of 
the  East  River  Bridge,  the  many  vessels  in  the  river,  and  the  retrospect 
of  Governor's  Island  and  the  harbor,  attract  the  attention.    At  the  foot 


36      Jtoute  1. 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


11'  m 


^t  Pike  St.  (1. )  is  the  Sectional  Dry-Dock,  beyond  which  are  numerous 
iarge  ship-yards  and  dry-docks.  On  the  r.  is  seen  the  U.  S.  Navy  Yanl, 
>vith  its  ship-houses,  naval  dry-dock,  batteries,  and  vessels  of  the  fleet ; 
above  which  is  that  portion  of  Brooklyn  formerly  known  as  Williams- 
burg. At  the  foot  of  12th  St.  (1.)  are  the  immense  Novelty  Iron  Works, 
near  the  works  of  the  Manhattan  Gas  Company.  At  the  foot  of  26th  St. 
is  Bellevue  Hospital,  a  free  public  institution  with  1,200  beds,  attended 
by  the  most  eminent  doctors,  and  famed  for  its  clinical  instruction.  Near 
the  hospital  is  the  Morjxte,  a  gray-stone  building,  where  the  unidentified 
human  corpses  which  are  found  in  the  streets  and  rivers  of  the  city  are 
exposed  to  public  view  for  3  days.  Nearly  opposite  Bellevue,  Newtown 
Creek  is  seen  indenting  the  E.  shore  ;  above  which  is  Hunter's  Point  (L. 
I.  City),  where  the  Long  Island  railroad  system  converges.  The  boat 
now  approaches  *  BlackwelVs  Island,  the  Indian  Minnahanock,  which 
was  owned  for  many  years  by  the  Blackwell  family,  and  was  bought  by 
the  city  in  1828.  It  occupies  120  acres,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  sea-wall. 
The  buildings  are  all  of  granite,  quarried  here  by  the  convicts,  and  prob- 
ably there  is  nowhere  else  in  the  world  a  cluster  of  charitable  and  correc- 
tional institutions  which  combine  so  much  of  strength,  comfort,  and 
practical  power  for  restraint. 

The  Small-Pox  Hospital  is  a  Gothic  building  at  the  S.  end.  It  was  built  in  1854, 
and  in  1870  received  977  patients,  of  whom  100  died.  The  Fever  Hospitals  are 
to  the  W.,  and  the  Epileptic  and  Paralytic  Hospitals  are  on  the  E.  To  the  N.  is 
the  Charity  Hospital,  an  immense  granite  building  (354  by  122  ft.),  with  29  wards 
and  1,200  beds.  The  E.  wing  is  for  men  ;  the  W.  wing  for  women.  7,000  patients 
are  treated  here  yearly,  of  whom  450  die.  The  wards  are  models  of  neatness,  and 
the  medical  attendance  is  skilful.  IQext  to  the  Hospital  is  the  Penitentiary. 
a  vast,  gloomy,  and  massive  building,  with  a  battlemented  roof  and  centre  ana 
flanking  towers.  It  is  altogether  built  of  granite  and  iron.  It  has  756  cells,  but 
is  always  crowded,  and  a  new  penitentiary  is  to  be  built  on  Hart's  Island,  12  M. 
distant  on  L.  I.  Sound.  The  male  convicts  are  dressed  in  striped  garments,  and 
work  on  the  new  buildings  on  Ward's,  Randall's,  and  Hart's  Islands,  having  ex- 
hausted the  quarries  on  Blackwell's  and  covered  it  with  massive  buildings.  Over 
1,600  prisoners  are  received  here  yearly,  most  of  whom  are  under  25  years  of  age, 
—  i  are  women,  and  over  ^  are  foreigners.  N.  of  the  Penitentiary  are  2  large 
Almshouses  (one  for  each  sex),  650  ft.  apart,  with  high  verandas  and  neat  grounds. 
These  buildings  are  for  the  aged  and  infirm  poor,  of  whom  1,100-1,200  can  be  ac- 
commodated. Near  by  are  the  Hospitals  for  Incurables.  To  the  W.  is  the  spa- 
cious Workhouse  (of  local  hewn  granite,  680  ft.4ong),  the  receptacle  for  the  vagrant 
and  dissipated  classes  of  the  great  city.  The  terms  of  commitment  are  short 
(averaging  10  days)  ;  drunkenness  is  the  chief  cause  of  detention  ;  and  there  are 
15-20,000  persons  sent  here  yearly,  of  whom  comparatively  few  are  Americans. 
The  octagonal  building  with  long  wings  (one  for  each  sex)  is  the  City  Lunatic 
Asylum,  and  on  the  E.  is  a  separate  building  for  the  more  noisy  patients.  The 
Blackwell's  Island  institutions  can  only  be  visited  by  persons  bearing  a  pass  from 
the  Commissioners  (office,  E.  11th  St.  and  .3d  Ave).  The  island  is  surrounded  by 
deep  ship-channels,  patrolled  by  guard-boats ;  and  the  shores  are  watched  by 
sentries. 

W.  of  Blackwell's  Island,  the  space  between  60th  and  80th  Sts.  is  oc- 
cupied by  Jones's  Wood,  formerly  a  favorite  German  resort  and  beer- 
garden.     The  Woods  are  now  fast  giving  way  before  the  advance  of 


NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Jtoute  1,       37 


the  eity  streets.  E.  of  the  island  are  the  villas  of  Ravenswood,  and  as 
the  boat  leaves  the  island  behind,  Astoria  is  seen  on  the  r.,  a  place  of 
villas,  flower-gardens,  and  picturesque  shores.  The  boat  now  passes 
along  the  W.  verge  of  Hell  Oate,  a  (langerous  strait  at  the  W.  entrance 
of  L.  I.  Sound,  obstructed  by  sunken  rocks  and  strong  currents.  A 
greater  amount  cf  commercial  property  passes  through  this  thoroughfare 
every  year  than  through  the  Narrows ;  of  late  years  extensive  improve- 
ments have  been  (and  are  being)  v^ade  by  U.  S.  Engineers  and  Welsh 
miners,  who  have  mined  the  ledges  in  every  direction.  Ward's  Island 
is  now  seen  on  the  r.,  covering  200  acres.  It  was  called  by  the  Indians 
Tenkenas,  and  was  bought  by  Van  Twiller  in  1637.  The  elegant  and  im- 
posing Inebriate  Asylum  accommodates  400  patients,  for  whose  benefit 
religious  and  moral  instniction  is  added  to  physical  supervision.  About 
200  soldiers,  infirm  and  honorably  discharged,  are  taken  care  of  in  the 
Soldiers'  Retreat,  in  this  building.  On  the  E.  end  of  the  island  is  the 
new  Lunatic  Asylum  ;  and  106  acres  are  occupied  by  the  farms  and  spa- 
cious buildings  of  the  Emigrant  Refuge  and  Hospital.  The  city  has  re- 
cently built  a  large  Catholic  church  on  the  island. 

The  steamer  passes  between  Ward's  Island  and  Manhattan,  and  soon 
comes  in  sight  of  Randall's  Island,  separated  from  Wai-d's  by  Little 
Hell  Gate.  On  its  S.  shore  is  the  House  of  Refuge,  a  great  line  of  build- 
ings, witli  4  domes,  in  Italian  architecture,  and  with  1,000  ft.  of  frontage. 
It  generally  has  700  boys  and  150  girls,  who  are  sent  here  by  their  parents 
or  by  the  courts,  and  are  subjected  to  necessary  restraints,  and  required 
to  labor  6-8  hours  daily,  and  to  attend  school  4-5  hours.  As  soon  as 
they  appear  to  be  really  reformed,  they  are  indentured  out  to  trades  or  to 
farmers. 

On  Randall's  Island  are  also  the  Nurseries,  6  large  buildings  where  are  kept 
2,400  cliildreii,  found  abandoned  in  the  streets  or  surrendered  by  poor  parents : 
also  tlie  Infant  Hospital,  for  3-400  young  children,  and  the  Idiot  Asylum,  ac- 
commodating 150  patients.  The  list  of  city  coiTectional  institutions  is  com- 
pleted by  the  Catholic  Protectory,  on  the  adjacent  mainland,  in  the  old 
town  of  W.  Farms.  The  imuiense  buikllngs  of  this  society  (for  protecting  and 
uplifting  destitute  or  vicious  Roman  Catholic  children)  are  called  the  Houses  of 
the  Holy  Angels.  The  boys  (7-800  in  number)  are  cared  for  by  the  Christian 
Brothers  ;  and  the  girls  occupy  an  imposing  ediflce  in  ultra-Gothic  architecture, 
with  many  spires  and  pinnacles,  and  are  supervised  by  the  Sistei"s  of  Charity. 
12  M.  to  the  E.,  on  Hart's  Island,  are  the  Industrial  School  (for  vicious  boys)  and 
the  City  Cemetery. 

Beyond  Randall's  Island,  the  steamboat  follows  the  Harlem  River  to  the 
N.,  between  the  suburbs  of  Harlem  and  Morrisania,  and  stops  near  Har- 
lom  Bridge  (whence  a  line  of  horse-cars  runs  N.  to  Tremont  and  Ford- 
ham  in  5  M. ).  Smaller  steamers  run  from  Harlem  to  Macomb's  Dam,  the 
High  Bridge  (see  page  27),  and  Spuyten  Duyvil.  The  trip  to  or  from 
Harlem  may  also  be  made  by  the  3d  Avenue  horse-cars,  from  the  Astor 
House. 


M 


m 


38      Jtoute  2. 


BROOKLYN. 


Jersey  City  (*  Taylor's  Hotel,  European  plan,  at  the  ferry  ;  horse-cars 
to  Hoboken,  Communipaw,  and  Bergen  Heights ;  railroads  to  Newark 
and  Elizabeth,  Philadelphia  and  Easton,  and  to  the  S.  and  W.  generally  ; 
steamships  to  Queenstown  and  Liverpool)  is  a  place  of  but  little  interest 
to  the  tourist.  It  is  in  the  State  of  New  Jersey,  opposite  N.  Y,  City, 
with  which  it  is  connected  by  several  ferries  over  the  Hudson  River. 
To  the  N.  is  Hoboken,  the  terminal  point  of  3  lines  of  German  steam- 
ships, and  of  railroads  to  the  S.  and  W.  The  Stevens  Listitute  of  Tech- 
nology is  a  school  of  mechanical  engineering,  founded  by  Edwin  A. 
Stevens  in  1867,  and  endowed  with  $  650,000.  It  has  a  fine  building,  and 
is  provided  with  apparatus  and  cabinets  which  are  unexcelled  in  the 
country. 

In  1779  the  present  site  of  Jersey  City  was  a  sandy  peninsula  called  Paulus 
Hook,  on  which  (near  the  present  corner  of  Grand  and  Greene  Sts.)  were  2  strong 
forts,  garrisoned  by  the  57th  British  regiment.  Aug.  19,  1779,  Maj.  Henry  Lee, 
with  300  i)icked  men,  surprised  the  works  at  dawn,  and  captured  159  men,  but 
drew  off  before  the  guns  of  the  larger  fort,  and  retired  with  but  slight  loss.  For 
this  spirited  achievement,  Lee  was  honored  by  Congress  witli  a  gold  medal. 

S.  W.  of  Jersey  City  is  Communipaw,  an  antiquated  Dutch  village,  which  was 
granted  to  Michael  Pauw,  director  of  the  Dutch  W.  L  Company,  in  1630.  He  be- 
came patroon  of  a  r  *■  domain,  which  he  named  Pavonia,  or  Conimunipauw,  — 
the  Commune  of  Ps  —the  Latin  pavo  and  the  Dutch  pmiv;  botli  meaning  pea- 
cock. By  orders  of  \.  .if.  Kieft,  the  Dutch  trooi)s  fell  upon  the  Indian  village  of 
Arisshek,  on  this  site,  in  1643,  and  cruelly  massacred  80  persons.  Soon  afterward 
the  Indians  attacked  Communipaw,  and  exterminated  its  inhabitants  (excepting 
one  family) ;  and  the  next  settlers  surrounded  it  with  walls. 


2.   Brooklyn. 


Hotels.  — *Pierrepont  House,  corner  of  Montague  and  Hicks  Sts.,  04  a  day  : 
Mansion  House,  Henry  St.;  Clinton  House,  Fultou  St.,  near  Clinton;  Brooklyn 
House,  at  Hamilton  Ferry. 

Restaurants.  —  Snedeker's,  187  Montague  St.,  near  Court ;  Dieter's,  305-313 
Wasliington  St.,  near  the  Post-Office  ;  the  Bank,  near  the  City  Hall. 

Theatreo.  —  *  Academy  of  Music,  Montague  St.,  near  Court,  for  operas  and 
concerts  ;  the  Brooklyn,  Wa.shington  St.,  near  Fulton  ;  the  New  Park,  Fulton 
St.     Varieties  at  Hooley's  Opera  House,  Court  St. 

Reading-Rooms.  —  Mercantile  Library.  Montague  St.,  near  the  City  Hall ; 
Y.  M.  C.  A.,  Fultou  Ave.     Post-Office,  on  Washington  St.,  near  Fulton. 

Horse-Cars.  —  From  Fulton  Ferry  (every  C  minutes),  by  the  Wall  St,  South, 
and  Atlantic  Ferries,  and  along  Atlantic  Ave.,  to  E.  New  York  (connecting  there 
with  steam-cars  to  Canarsie,  Jamaica,  and  Rockaway) ;  from  Fultou  Ferry,  by 
Furman  St.,  Atlantic,  Flatbush,  and  5th  Aves.,  to  Greenwood  Cemcteiy  (con- 
necting there  with  steam-cars  for  New  Utrecht,  Bath,  and  Coney  Island) ;  Irom 
Fulton  Ferry,  on  Water,  Washington,  and  Fulton  Sts.  and  De  Kalb  Ave.,  to  New- 
town (with  a  branch  on  Water,  Bridge,  Willoughby,  De  Kalb,  and  Broadway) ; 
from  Fulton  Ferry,  by  Fulton  St.  and  Flatbush  Ave. ,  to  Prospect  Park  and  Flat- 
bush  ;  from  Fulton  Ferry,  on  Fulton  and  Sands  Sts.  and  Flushing  Ave. ,  Broad- 
way, Graham,  and  Van  Coit  Aves. ;  from  Fulton  Ferry,  on  Fulton  St.  and  Ave.,  to  E. 
New  York  ;  from  Fultou  Ferry,  on  Furman  St.,  by  the  lower  ferries,  to  Hamilton 
Ferry  ;  from  Fulton  Ferry,  on  Fulton  St.  and  Greene,  Franklin,  and  Gates  Aves., 
to  Broadway  ;  from  Fulton  Ferry  to  Greenpoiut,  by  Clason  Ave.  or  by  Washing- 
ton Ave. ;  from  Fnlton  Feriy  to  Greenwood,  by  Fulton  aiul  Court  Sts.  and  Ham- 
ilton Ave. ;  from  Fulton  Ferry  to  Broadway,  by  Fulton  St.  and  Myrtle  Ave. ;  from 
Fulton  Ferry  to  Greenwood,  by  Fulton  St.,  Flatbush  and  3d  Aves.;  from  Fulton 


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BROOKLYN. 


Route  ft.       39 


Perry,  by  Water,  Main,  Prospect,  Jay,  Smith,  and  9th  Sts.,  to  City  Line  (con- 
nei'ting  for  Coney  Island) ;  from  Fulton  Ferry,  by  Water,  Bridge,  Concord,  and 
Navy  rtts.,  Park,  Vanderbilt,  and  9th  Aves.,  to  Greenwood  ;  from  Hamilton  Perry 
to  Erie  Basin  ;  to  Prospect  Park,  by  Sackett,  Hoyt,  and  Bergen  Sts.  From  Wil- 
liamsburjh  (foot  of  Broadway)  to  the  Penitentiary,  by  1st,  Kent,  Clason,  Flushing, 
and  Nostrand  Aves. ;  to  the  Lutheran  Cemetery,  to  Calvary  Cemetery,  to  Montrose 
Ave. ;  from  Bridge  St.  Ferry  to  Prospect  Park ;  from  Roosevelt  St.  Ferry  to  E. 
New  York ;  from  South  Ferry  to  R.  R  stations  and  34th  St.  iJVrry  (cross-town 
line)  ;  from  Grand  and  Houston  St.  Ferries  to  Myrtle  Ave.  Park  ;  from  Grand  St- 
to  Prospect  Park  ;  from  Greenwood  to  Bay  Ridge  and  Fort  flamiiton. 

Ballroada.  —  From  Long  Lsland  City  to  Sag  Harbor  and  Greenport  (L.  I.  R. 
R.;  Route  5) ;  to  College  Point  and  Flushing  (Route  6) ;  to  Roskaway  and  Baby- 
lon (Route  4);  E.  New  York  to  Canarsie  and  Jamaica;  Greenwood  to  Bath  and 
Coney  Island. 

Ferries.  To  New  York  fi-om  Greenpoint  Ave.,  Grand  (E.  D.),  Hudson, 
Briil^'e,  S.  7th,  Main,  Fulton,  and  Montague  Sts.,  and  Atlantic  and  Hamilton 
Aves!  :  also  from  Bay  Ridge  to  Wall  St. 

Brooklyn  was  first  settled  (near  the  Wallabout)  in  1625,  by  a  Huguenot  family 
named  De  Rapalje.  For  a  century  and  a  half  its  annals  were  peaceful,  and  its 
pro'^ress  slow.  The  colonization  was  effected  by  French  exiles  and  Dutch  immi- 
grants, and  in  1706  there  were  but  64  freeholders  in  the  place.  On  account  of  its 
£eigh1»  and  ravines  it  waj  named  Breucklen  (Broken  Land). 

The  Battle  of  "Long  Island. 

•♦  There  the  old-fashioned  colonel  galloped  through  the  white  infernal 

Powder  cloud  s 
And  his  broadsword  was  swinging,  and  hia  brazen  throat  was  ringing 

Trumpet  loud : 
There  the  blue  bullets  flew 
And  the  trooper  jackets  redden  at  the  touch  of  the  leaden 

Rifle  breath ; 
And  rounder,  rounder,  rounder,  roared  the  iron  six-pounder. 

Hurling  death  t  ** 

Aug.  22, 1776,  a  powerful  force  of  British  and  Hessian  troopa  landed  on  Long 
Island  (at  Gravesend  Bay),  under  the  guns  of  4  fii^jates.  27,000  American  soldiers 
then  held  New  York,  but  they  were  mostly  militiamen  and  undisciplined  volun- 
teers ;  and  the  fortified  lines  on  Gowanus  Heights  were  still  incomplete.  The 
British  r.  wing,  composed  of  chosen  troops,  made  a  secret  circuitous  march  by 
niglit  from  Flatlands,  and  seized  tlie  important  and  unguarded  passes  to  Jamaica 
and  Bedford,  on  the  American  1.  (near  E.  New  York).  At  the  same  time  (Aug. 
27)  Gen.  Grant  advanced  the  British  1.  wing  along  the  line  of  Bay  Ridge  to  the 
hills  of  Greenwood  Cemetery,  drove  back  the  outposts  and  Atlee's  Penn.  troops, 
and  halted  bef:;re  Battle  Hill,  where  Lord  Stirling  Avasin  position  witli  the  Penn., 
Del.,  and  Maryland  line.  Meantime,  the  British  r.  was  hotly  engaged.  De  Hcis- 
ter's  Hessian  artillery  cannonaded  tiie  American  works  on  Mt.  Prospect  (over  tlie 
Fiatbusli  pass),  and  the  Count  Donop  led  a  fierce  charge  upon  the  redoubts.  Sul- 
livan's American  brigade  was  now  cut  off  l)y  Clinton,  who  had  driven  back  the 
militia  from  Bedford  plains ;  and  being  caught  between  the  light  infantiy  and 
dragoons  on  one  side,  and  the  Hessians  ou  the  other,  tlie  brigade  was  speedily  cut 
to  pieces.  A  few  fugitives  were  pursued  to  Fort  Putnam  by  the  grenadiers  ;  and 
doubtless  that  work  would  have  been  carried  and  the  army  on  Long  Island  would 
have  been  captured,  but  tliat  the  soldiers  were  restrained  by  the  roj'alist  generals. 
After  the  d^bavdade  on  the  American  1.,  Lord  Cornwallis  advanced  v/ith  intent  to 
cut  off  Stirling  and  the  r.  wing  ;  and  Grant  drove  Atlee's  Pennsylvanians  from 
Battle  Hill.  Perceiving  that  the  only  hope  for  his  brigade  was  that  the  converg-' 
ing-liostile  cohnnns  might  be  checked,  Stirling  took  Smallwood's  Maryland  bat- 
talion as  a  forlorn  hope,  and  fell  upon  C(^rnwallis's  grenadiers  advancing  from  the 
N.  E.  In  20  minutes  259  of  the  patrician  youth  of  Maryland  perished  about  Cor- 
telyou's  house,  but  the  British  advance  was  checked,  and  the  Delawares  and  frag- 
ments of  the  other  regiments  escaped  across  the  rising  tide  of  Gowanus  Creek. 
By  mid-day  the  Battle  of  Long  Island  was  over,  and  the  Americans  had  lost  1,650 
men,  including  Gens.  Sullivan  and  Stirling  (who  were  captured).  The  British 
loss  was  867.  The  Scotch  and  Hessian  troops  gave  no  quarter  ;  and  the  flrigate 
Roebuck  galled  the  American  r.  firom  her  moorings  off  Red  Hook.    Th^  next  day 


40      Hmte  fg. 


BROOKLYN. 


4 


was  stormy  and  dark,  and  tlie  British  cannonaded  the  ^orta  IVoni  newly  raised 
parallels,  while  vessola  of  tlie  fleet  began  to  enter  the  harbor.  Tlierefore,  at  night, 
when  a  (lense  log  overhung  the  lines  and  river,  tlie  14tl»  Mass.  Keg.  (500  men  of 
Essex  Co.;  cnlleil  "  the  anipltibious  reg.")  was  detailed  to  ferry  tlie  broken  army 
across  the  East  River.  Washington  watehed  the  embarkation  (trom  the  Fulton 
Ferry  site),  and  it  was  eovcred  by  Mifflin's  Pennsylvanians  and  tlie  Delawaros  and 
Marylnndcrs.  From  midiiiglit  till  dawn  the  Marblehead  hsiiernien  plied  their 
oars,  and  safely  landed  the  0.000  Americans,  willi  their  baggaj.^e  and  artillery,  on 
the  N.  Y.  shore.  Tlie  Rvitish  eamj)  was  alarmed  nt  4.Hii  a.  m.  ;  but  the  last' boat 
was  out  of  i)!stol-shot  when  their  videttes  reached  the  shore  and  the  sunlight 
brolie  over  the  river.  Gen.  Wm.  Howe,  "the  most  indolent  of  mortals,"  was 
knighted  for  this  victory.  lie  Avas  a  brother  of  Richard,  Earl  Howe,  who  com- 
manded the  fleet  in  N.  Y.  Harbor,  and  also  of  the  much-beloved  Lord  Howe  who 
fell  before  Montcalm's  lines  at  Tieonderoga,  in  1758.  The  Americans  evacuated 
New  York,  Sept.  13,  1776  (see  page  27). 

Brooklyn,  the  third  city  of  the  Republic,  is  situated  on  the  W.  end  of 

L' iig  Island,  and  is  separated  from  N.  Y.  City  by  tlie  deep  strait  called 

the  Ea.st  River.     Its  population,  of  7,175  in  the  year  1820,  had  increased 

v  1870  to  over  400,000  (of  whom  144,713  were  of  foreign  birth).     It  has 

R  water-front  of  8  M.  along  Gowanus  Bay  and  the  East  River  ;  and  the 

ijwlands  of  the  shores  rise  gradually  to  well-defined  lines  of  heights. 

'"he  newer  parts  of  the  city  are  laid  out  in  broad  avenues  and  boulevards, 

jnod  afford  residences  to  many  thousands  of  the  merchants  and  clerks  of 

New  York.     Brooklyn  has  12  banks,  13  savings-banks,  10  fire  and  2  life 

insurance  companies,  and  3  daily  and  14  other  newspapers.     It  is  said  to 

have  fewer  hotels  and  more  fnu-  churches,  in  jiroportion  to  its  population, 

than  any  other  American  city.     There  are  about  240  churches  and  chapels, 

and  5  convents.    There  are  48  public  schools,  with  725  teachers  and  63,004 

pupils;  and  200  private  schools,  with  25,000  pupils  (reports  of  1870). 

Tlie  commercial  facilities  of  BrookljTi  are  very  extensive,  including  basins 

and  piers  along  the  Gowanus  and  Newtown  Creeks  and  the  East  River. 

The  A  tlantic  Docks  cover  42  acres  of  deep  water,  sheltered  by  a  fronting 

•wall  h  M.  long  and  20  - 150  ft.  wide,  lined  with  warehouses  and  elevators. 

Tlie  immense  Erie  Basin  is  nt  Red  Hook  ;  and  fleets  of  steamers,  coasters, 

and  canal-boats  pas.s  the  winter  in  and  near  these  basins  and  Gowanus 

Bay. 

The  U.  S.  Navy  Yawi  '  •  on  •  .allfibout  Bay.  about  1  M.  from  Fulton  Ferry, 
and  s  the  chief  naval  station  of  the  Republic.  It  has  nuincvous  workshops, 
foundries,  and  .storehouses,  and  an  immense  ry-Dock,  l)uiit  1841-51,  at  a  cost 
of  :"'.3,00a,001  The  latter  i s  *i  mass  of  granite  masonry  resting  on  10,000  piles, 
and  contains  610,0D0  gallons  of  water,  which  can  be  removed  in  '1\  lu-s.  This 
doc'.c  wasl.itely  made  fumoas  as  the  prison  of  tlie  Spanish  iron-dad,  the  ArapihH. 
A  short  causeway  leads  to  the  island  on  whi(!h  is  the  Ordnance  Dock,  whi(!h  was 
pompleted  in  1800,  at  a  cost  of  $  1,9;)0,000.  Hundreds  of  ponderous  Dalilgren  and 
Tarrott  guns  arc  i>arked  in  the  yard  :  the  most  notable  of  which  are  the  3  20-inch 
Dahl'xrens  called  "Satan,"  "Lucifer,"  and  "Moloch."  In  front  of  the  head- 
c/iarters  is  a  trupliy-battery,  among  whose  cannon  is  "  La  Robnste,"  an  ancient 
IPrench  30-pour>'ier  captured  at  Sr.n  Juan  d'Ulloa,  and  the  11-inch  gun  of  the 
Onahh:\,  uaniaged  in  the  battle  of  Mobile.  Here  is  also  seen  the  curious  torjjedo- 
boat  Midge,  captured  at  Charleston.  Among  the  frigates  which  are  moored  olf 
shore  is  the  old  line-of-battle  ship  Verinont  (receiving-ship),  and  the  immense  3- 
turreted  iron-ciad  Eoanoke.     The  Naval  Muiteuui  coutaius  many  relicii,  uiuou;: 


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which  arc  trophies  of  the  Corenn  war,  and  the  remarkable  piece  of  coral  called 
Neptune's  Puiich-Bowl.  This  Navy  Yanl  was  the  scene  of  unoeasiny  lulwrs  dur- 
ing iliie  ^eceflsiun  War.  To  tlie  E.  is  tliu  U.  S.  Naval  Hoffyital,  a  niurble  builUiug 
accoiniiiuduting  350  patients.  The  British  ])ri8on-shii)s  during  the  Ilcvuhitlon 
were  moored  in  Wallabout  IJay,  and  in  tlieir  gloomy  holds  11,500  raptlve  Ameri- 
cans died.  The  remains  of  these  martyred  patriots  are  now  appropriately  hon- 
ored and  entombed  in  VVasliington  I'ark  (the  site  of  old  Fort  (jirecne).  near  the 
Btate  Ar.senal  and  8.  of  the  Navy  Yard.  The  Kings  County  Jail  and  the  City 
Hospital  front  on  this  square. 

« 

Pulton  St.  is  the  main  tlioroughfare  of  the  cit)',  and  ascends  from  the 
Fulton  Ferry-house  to  tlie  City  Hall  in  a  sinuous  course  of  1  M.  It  is 
lined  with  retail  stores  and  offices,  and  is  traversed  by  many  horse-cars. 
The  City  Hall  is  a  large  marble  bulMi'^,  at  the  junction  of  Fulton  and 
Court  Sts.,  ill  Ionic  architecture,  urmounted  by  a  belfry.     To  the 

E.  is  the  *  Kings  County  Court-H  mvcious  marble  building,  with 

a  fine  portico,  and  an  iron  donu  ligh.    The  Reformed  Dutch 

Church  is  back  of  the  City  H.all,  ai  m   >3  a  Greek  temple,  with  it« 

portico  of  8  massive  Ionic  columns,  l  n  this  vicinity  are  2  famous  schools, 
—  the  Polytechnic  Institute  (Livingston  St.,  near  Court),  for  \»oys,  and 
the  Packer  Collegiate  Institute  (Joralemon  St.),  for  ladies.  Montague 
St.  leads,  S.  W.  from  the  City  Hall,  to  the  line  Gothic  building  of  the 
Mercantile  Library,  which  has  60,000  volumes,  besides  well-supplied 
reading-rooms.  Opposite  the  library  is  the  broad  front  of  the  Academy 
of  Music,  adjoining  the  Academy  of  Design,  whose  ornate  exterior  is  of 
Scotch  and  Ohio  stone,  in  many  places  curiously  carved.  A  broad  oaken 
stairway  leads  up  through  the  central  tower  to  the  gallery,  where  exhibi- 
tions of  pictures  are  frequently  held.  Next  to  the  Academy  is  the  new 
building  of  the  U.  S.  Courts.  On  the  comer  of  Clinton  and  Montague 
Sts.  is  the  elegant  *  Cliuich  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  with  a  high  clere-story, 
and  rich  stained  windows  representing  the  Messianic  ancestry.  To  the  1., 
on  Clinton  St.,  is  the  ornate  Church  of  St.  Ann-on-the-Heights ;  and  to 
the  r.,  on  Pierrepont  St.,  is  the  Reformed  Dutch  Church,  modelled  in- 
ternally after  a  basilica  built  by  the  mother  of  Constantine ;  and  also  the 
Church  of  the  Saviour  (Unitarian),  an  elaborate  piece  of  pointed  archi- 
tecture. Grace  Church,  on  Hicks  St.,  near  Remsen,  is  in  florid  Gothic 
architecture ;  and  the  Church  of  the  Pilgrims  (corner  of  Henry  and  Rem- 
sen Sts.)  is  in  the  Norman  style.  On  Orange  St.,  near  Hicks,  is  the  large 
plain  building  of  Plymouth  Church  (Henry  Ward  Beecher).  Near  the 
end  of  Montague  St.  is  a  high  terrace,  overlooking  N.  Y.  and  the  East 
River,  from  which,  on  r.  and  1.,  extend  the  fashionable  streets  of  Brooklyn 
Heights.  The  L.  I.  College  Hospital  has  a  large  and  imposing  building, 
in  wide  grounds,  on  Henry,  near  Pacific  St.  The  Long  Island  Historical 
Society's  rooms  are  at  the  corner  of  Joralemon  and  Court  Sts.,  and  con- 
tain (besides  a  small  museum)  a  library  of  23,000  volumes,  with  20,000 
pamphlets  and  many  MSS.    From  the  City  Hall,  Court  St.  runs  S.  E.  to 


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the  Brooklyn  Basin,  on  Qowanos  Bay,  crossing  Atlantic  Ave.,  a  broad 
thoroughfare  which  extends  from  the  East  River  N.  K  across  the  city. 
Fulton  St.  and  Ave.  passes  to  the  N.  E.  to  £.  New  York,  parallel  with 
Atlantic  Ave.  In  the  N.  part  of  the  city  are  many  miles  of  residences, 
on  long,  quiet  streets  traversed  by  tram-ways.  In  this  distnct  are  many 
line  churches,  among  which  may  be  named  Talmage's  new  Tabernacle 
(said  to  be  the  largest  Protestant  church  in  AmeVica),  on  Schermerhoni 
St.;  the  Clason  Ave.  and  Washington  Ave.  Churches;  St.  Mary's,  on 
Willoughby  Ave  ;  Dr.  Scudder's  Tabernacle  (of  corrugated  iron),  on 
Hancock  St.;  and  the  unique  brown-stone  building  of  the  Church  of  the 
Puritans,  on  Marcy  Ave.  Near  the  Clinton  Ave.  Congregatiohal  C!hurch 
(Dr.  Budington)  are  the  vast  and  massive  lower  walls  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  Cathedral,  where  work  was  suspended  several  years  ago. 

Brooklyn,  R  D.  (Eastern  District),  is  N.  of  the  Navy  Yard,  and  fronts  on  the 
East  River,  and  was  fonberly  tlie  municipality  of  Williamitbuig.  6  M.  trnva. 
Fulton  Ferry  is  the  Cemetery  of  Cypress  Hills,  on  the  far-viewing  ndge  called 
"the  backbone  of  Long  Island."  85,000  bodies  are  buried  here.  In  its  vicinity 
is  a  national  cemetery,  where  4-5,000  soldiers  are  buried;  also  the  Salemfield 
Cemetery  (Jewish).  To  the  S.  is  the  Ridgewjod  Resei-voir  of  the  Brooklyn 
Water-Works,  covering  48f  acres,  and  with  a  caimcity  of  162,000,000  spallons.  N. 
of  Broadwiay  is  the  Cemetery  of  the  Evergreens,  which  covers  115  acres,  and  has 
several  small  lakes.  In  Newtown,  N.  E.  of  Greenpoint,  is  the  Calvary  Cemetery 
of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  in  which  84,000  bodies  have  been  buried. 

*  Frospeot  Park  (reached  by  either  of  several  lines  of  horse-cars  from 
the  N.  Y.  ferries)  is  a  noble  rival  of  Central  Park,  and  covers  630  acres  of 
broad  and  verdant  meadows,  tmibrageous  groves,  and  heights  which  over- 
look the  bay  and  city  of  New  York,  Staten  Island,  and  the  highlands  of 
the  Hudson  and  Neversink.  The  entrance  from  Flatbnsh  Ave.  is  across 
the  Plaza,  a  large  circular  space  in  whose  centre  is  a  costly  fountain. 
The  Plaza  is  also  adorned  with  a  bronze  stMue  of  President  Lincoln.  K 
of  the  entrance  is  the  Mt.  Prospect  Reservoir^  which  (with  a  capacity  of 
20,000,000  gallons)  supplies  the  higher  parts  of  the  city  with  water.  The 
ornate  gate-house  overlooks  the  park,  E.  New  York,  Flatbnsh,  Bashwick, 
the  great  cities  and  harbor,  and  the  blue  ocean  S.,  beyond  the  beaches  of 
Rockaway  and  Coney  Island.  Near  the  reservoir  are  the  mazy  paths  of 
the  Flower  Garden.  There  are  in  this  Park  8  M.  of  drives,  4  M.  of  rides, 
and  a  great  number  of  rambles.  The  Parade  and  the  Zoological  Ground 
are  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Park.  From  the  Plaza,  broad  drives  and  sin- 
uous pathways  run  S.  K  to  the  defile  called  the  Battle  Pass,  which  was 
the  scene  of  sharp  fighting  during  the  Battle  of  Long  Island. 

From  this  point  the  Forest  Road  diverges  to  the  1.  through  a  quiet  and 
shadowy  glen;  while  the  Lake  Road  passes  on  to  the  Botanical  Givrdens, 
which  are  pleasantly  situated  between  placid  lakelets  near  the  centre,  of 
the  Park.  The  Lake  covers  61  acres,  and  its  broadest  expansion  is  in  tha 
S.  E.  part  of  the  Park,  beyond  the  Terrace  and  Refectory.    Near  the  W. 


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GREENWOOD  CEMETERY. 


Haute  t.      43 


entrance  is  a  high  bluff,  surmounted  by  a  lookout  tower  which  commands 
abroad  view.  Among  the  many  fine  archways  and  bridges  the  most 
prominent  are  the  Nethermead  and  Meadow  Port  Arches  and  the  Cleft 
Ridge  Span. 

*  Greenwood  Cemetery  is  3  M.  from  Fulton  Ferry  (several  lines  of 
horse-cars).  It  is  the  most  beautiful  cemetery  in  the  world,  and  its  forest- 
covered  and  far-viewing  hills  are  adorned  with  thousands  of  costly  monu- 
ments and  mansolea.  The  grounds  (413. acres)  were  laid  out  by  skilful 
landscape-gardeners,  and  are  provided  with  17  M.  of  carriage-roads  (graded 
and  paved)  and  15  M.  of  paths  (covered  with  concrete).  On  and  about 
these  pleasant  hills  172,000  bodies  have  been  buried,  and  about  20  per 
day  are  now  brought  to  rest  in  Greenwood.  (Carriages  are  in  waiting  at 
the  entrance,  to  make  the  tour  of  the  grounds.)     * 

The  *  Northern  Entrance  is  a  stately  Gothic  pile  of  sandstone,  designed  by  Up- 
john. It  is  132^  ft.  long  and  40  ft.  deep,  and  the  central  pinnacle  is  10((  ft.  high. 
On  the  sides  are  the  offices  of  the  cemetery  ;  and  in  the  tower  is  a  deep-toned  bell 
that  tolls  at  the  approach  of  funerals.  Above  the  arches  are  4  large  ^ups  of 
statuary,  representing  Christ's  Entombment,  the  Resurrection,  the  Raismg  of  the 
Widow's  Son,  and  the  Raising  of  Lazarus.  Above  these  groups  are  reliefs  of 
Faith,  Hope,  Memory,  and  Love.  From  this  point  Landscape  Ave.  leads  to  the 
r.  by  the  monuments  of  Dixon  H.  Lewis  (U.  S.  Senator  from  Geoigia)  and  John 
B.  uraham  to  the  Receiving  Tomb,  in  which  are  361  coflln-cells.  Its  ornate  fi-ont 
looks  out  on  Arbor  Water,  a  placid  pond  surrounded  by  trees.  To  the  E.  is  Val- 
ley Water,  under  Strawberry  Hill  and  near  the  densely  occupied  public  lots.  To 
the  B.  beyond  Sunset  Hill  is  Sylvan  Water,  the  lai%est  and  deepest  of  the  lakelets 
of  Greenwood.  Near  this  water  are  the  Poet's  Mound  and  the  monument  of 
Dohummee,  daughter  of  a  sachem  of  the  Sac  Indians,  who  died  in  N.  Y.  while  on 
an  embassy  from  the  W.  A  line  of  marble  Egyptian  sepulchres  ftonts  on  Sylvan 
Water ;  on  Sylvan  Cliff  is  the  chapel-tomb  of  G.  W.  Browne  (designed  by  Upjohn) ; 
and  on  Oaken  Bluff  are  the  Skillin,  tlie  Becar.  and  the  Judge  Bi-onson  memorials* 
In  the  neightmring  public  lots  is  buried  Piero  Maroncelli,  the  prison-comrade  of 
Silvio  Pellico  at  Spiellierg.  On  Sylvan  Bluff  is  Catlin's  lot ;  and  near  Sylvan 
Water  is  the  Western  Entrance  to  tlie  cemetery.  On  Lake  Ridge  are  the  temple- 
tombs  of  Townsend  and  Miller,  beyond  which  is  the  Aspinwall  monument,  on 
Cedar  Mt.  On  Locust  Hill  is  the  grave  of  Horace  Greeley.  Beyond  the  Hooker 
and  Havemeyer  monuments,  Orchard  Ave.  leads  to  the  grave  of  George  Steers, 
the  naval  arcliitect.  Just  lieyond,  and  overlooking  the  deep  Crescent  Dell,  is  the 
Firemen's  Monument,  a  lofty  column  surmounted  by  a  spirited  statue  of  a  fireman 
on  duty.  Several  firemen  are  buried  in  this  vicinity.  On  Hill-Girt  Lawn  is  the 
elegant  canopied  monument  of  Prof.  S.  F.  B.  Morse,  the  inventor  of  the  telegraph. 
On  Crescent  Water  front  the  marble  tomb  of  Niblo,  the  Gothic  chapel  of  Phelps, 
and  the  grave  of  Dr.  Bethune.  Beyond  Alpine  Hill  are  the  delicate  Oriental 
mausoleum  of  Garrison,  the  urn  of  Udolpho  Wolfe,  and  the  grave  of  George  Wood. 
On  Vista  Hill  rests  Prof.  Edward  Robmson,  the  foremost  Oriental  sctiolar  of 
America  (near  the  flne  statue  of  Capt.  Correja) ;  on  Central  Ridge  are  George 
Gridwold  and  Erskine  Mason  ;  and  on  Lawn-Girt  Hill  is  the  Pierrepont  mound. 
Buttonwood  Hill  has  the  Schermerhorn  mausoleum  ;  and  on  Sycamore  Ave.  are 
Morgan's  Ionic  temple  and  Quintard's  statue.  On  Butternut  Hill  is  tlie  Haipers* 
lot ;  and  on  Locust  Ave.  rests  Gen.  Strong,  who  fell  in  the  assault  on  Fort  Wag- 
ner (Charleston).  At  the  crossing  of  Vine  and  Cypress  Aves.  is  the  open  peristyle 
of  Scribner,  supported  by  8  marble  pillars  and  enshrining  a  statue  of  Hope,  on  a 
pedestal  which  has  reliefs  of  the  Nativity,  Crucifixion,  Resurrection,  and  Ascen- 
sion (carved  in  Carrara).  On  Sassafras  Ave.  are  the  grounds  of  Prof.  Renwick 
and  George  Law,  the  financier.  On  Cypress,  near  Down  Ave.,  rests  Gen.  O.  M. 
Mitchell,  the  astronomer  and  soldier.  On  Ocean  Ave.  are  Dr.  Valentine  Mott  and 
Rev.  Dudley  A.  Tyng,  whose  famous  dying  words,  "  Stand  up  for  Jesus,"  are  carved 
upon  the  monument.    On  Atlantic  Ave.,  near  Ocean,  are  the  graves  of  David 


44      Route  t. 


CONEY  ISLAND. 


Abeel,  the  missionary,  Jolm  Cleveland,  and  the  Cornell  fimiily.  David  Hale  lies 
near  Border  Ave.  On  Ocean  HUl  (which  overlooks  Long  Island  and  the  ocean)  is 
tiie  costly  and  massive  octagonal  mausoleuni  of  Stephen  'Whitncv,  with  lancet 
windows  of  stained  glass.  Near  Grove  Ave.  ai-e  t)ie  gixmnds  of  Lilienthal,  Peter 
Cooiier,  Cutler,  Arnold  (with  a  costly  memorial),  and  Cozzens,  on  which  is  a  fine 
bas-i*elief  by  H.  K'.  Brown.  On  Atlantic  Ave.  is  the  Soldiers'  Lot,  where,  on  the 
80th  of  May  of  each  year,  the  citizens  strew  flowers  over  the  gitives  of  many  ofll- 
cers  and  soldiers  who  died  in  the  Secession  War.  Near  this  is  the  Hill  of  Graves, 
which  is  thickly  covered  with  lines  of  gras.sy  mounds.  On  Meadow  Hill  the  tomb 
of  W.  S.  Packer  is  adorned  with  a  bronze  stntue  of  Faith  (by  H.  K.  Brown).  At 
the  comer  of  Battle  and  Greenbough  Aves.  is  the  *  tomb  of  Charlotte  Canda^  the 
most  mteresting  point  in  the  cemetery.  It  consists  of  a  floridly  oniamented 
Gothic  arch,  flanked  by  taU  buttresses  with  floral  ftnials  and  enshrining  a  statue 
of  Miss  Canda.  Carved  flowers,  birds,  and  triiHMls  adorn  the  monument,  and  on 
either  side  are  kneeling  statues  of  angels.  Miss  Canda  was  the  daughter  of  an 
officer  of  Napoleon's  army  who  came  to  America  after  the  battle  of  .Waterloo.  In 
1845,  on  her  17th  birthday,  she  was  retunting  home  A'om  ah  evening  partv,  when 
the  horses  of  her  carriage  ran  away  and  she  was  thi-own  out  and  fatally  injured. 
The  monument  was  designed  by  herself  for  an  aunt  who  had  recently  died.  On 
Battle  Ave.  are  the  grounds  of  James  GoMon  Bennett  (founder  of  the  N.  Y. 
Herald),  adorned  with  rich  and  delicate  Italian  statuary.  On  Highland  Ave.  is  a 
statue  of  the  Saviour,  on  Peter  Gilsey's  lot ;  and  not  far  distant  are  the  graves  of 
several  officers  who  fell  in  tlie  Mexican  War.  On  Battle  Hill  is  the  Pilot's  Monu- 
fnent,  a  marble  shaft  on  which  is  a  statue  of  Hoiie,  erected  in  memoiy  of  Thomas 
Freeborn,  who  lost  his  life  while  piloting  a  ship  on  the  N.  J.  coast.  Near  by  is 
an  Ionic  temple  with  statues  of  the  4  Evangelists,  bel<mging  to  John  Anderson  ; 
and  the  trophy-adorned  monument  of  Col.  Vosbui-gh  (71st  N.  Y.)  is  E.  of  the  Pi- 
lot's. From  the  summit  of  Battle  Hill  is  obtained  a  broad  view  of  the  Bay  of 
N.  Y.,  the  great  cities,  Staten  island,  and  the  N.  J.  shore.  The  *view  from  the 
Plateau,  just  S.  E.  of  Battle  Hill,  is  even  more  grand,  and  includes  also  tlie  level 
plains  of  Long  Island  and  the  blue  ocean.  In  Bay  Side  Dell,  near  the  Northern 
Entrance,  is  the  bronze  statue  of  DeWitt  Clinton,  the  originator  of  tlie  Erie  Canal, 
Gov.  of  N..Y.,  1817-22  and  1824-27,  and  caitdidate  for  the  Presidency  in  1812. 
On  Battle  Hill  is  the  new  monument  erected  by  N.  Y.  City  to  her  dead  soldiers. 
It  is  a  granite  shaft,  adorned  with  bas-reliefs  and  guarded  by  4  bronze  statues. 

Bay  Bidge  is  S.  W.  of  Brooklyn,  on  the  shore  of  the  bay,  and  ha^ 
many  pleasant  villas,  an  Athenseum,  and  a  fine  view  over  the  inner  harbor. 
It  is  reached  by  horse-cars  from  Greenwood,  or  by  ferry  (15c.)  from  the 
Wall  St.  ferry-house,  N.  Y.  Farther  S  is  Fort  Hamilton,  a  village  front- 
ing on  the  Narrows,  near  which  is  the  Kings  County  Inebriate  Asylum. 
The  Dellwood  House,  near  Bay  Ridge,  is  visited  in  summer. 

Coney  IslandC*  Hotel  Brighton  ;  *  Manhattan  Beach;aeyer&l  restaurants 
and  small  hotels)  is  reached  by  cars  from  Greenwood  Cemetery^  passing 
through  the  pleasant  village  of  Bath  {Bath  Hotel;  Atlantic),  on  Graves- 
end  Bay.  It  is  also  reached  by  cars  from  Fulton  Ferry  and  Prospect 
Park,  and  by  steamboat  from  Pier  1,  E.  R.  The  island  is  4^  M.  )ong, 
and  very  narrow,  and  is  composed,  for  the  most  part,  of  sand-dunes. 
The  beach  is  hard  and  level,  and  affords  a  good  driveway  for  3  M.  Tlie 
bathing  is  good,  and  clams  and  fish  abound.  Between  the  island  and 
Sandy  Hook  is  the  wide  Lower  Bay,  with  the  sinuous  ship-channels  to 
the  inner  harbor.  Of  late  yeara  this  beach  has  been  the  favorite  ^excur- 
sion-point of  the  lower  classes  of  New  York,  and  visitors  returning  on 
the  late  boats  will  be  apt  to  see  much  boisterous  and  uncouth  conduct. 
A  fine  shell-road  leads  to  the  mainland  and  the  ancient  town  of  Graves- 


8TATEN  ISLAND. 


Route  S.      45 


end,  which  was  founded  before  1640  by  Qnakera  from  Mass.,  under  the 
direction  of  Lady  Deborah  Moody.  Since  1877,  Coney  Island  has  >teen  con  • 
verted  into  a  first-class  summer-resort,  enormously  popular,  and  reachel 
easily  from  New  York  by  luxurious  and  rapid  routes,  on  land  and  water; 

3.   Staten  Idaiid. 

steamboats  run  hourly  from  Pier  19  N.  R  to  New  Brighton,  Fort  Richmond, 
and  Elm  Parle ;  and  from  Whitehall  St.  to  Tompkinsville,  Stapleton,  and  Clifton 
(fare,  10c.).  Each  of  tiiese  lines  pasv'^s  down  the  harbor  between  the  fortified 
islands,  and  affords  panoramic  views  of  the  cities  on  either  shore.  Horse-cars 
traverse  the  populous  N.  shore  of  the  island ;  and  the  Staten  Island  B.  R  runs 
B.  W.  18  M.,  ftvm  VanderbUt's  Landing  to  TottenviUe. 

Staten  Island,  "the  American  Isle  of  Wight,"  and  the  "Staaten 
Eylandt "  of  the  Dutch  era,  js  S.  W.  of  N.  Y.  Bay,  and  pertains  to  the 
State  of  N.  Y.  It  is  separated  from  New  Jersey  by  the  long  and  n.irrow 
Staten  Island  Sound  and  the  Kill  Von  Kull,  and  from  Long  Island  by 
the  Narrows,  and  fronts  to  the  S.  E.,  on  Raritan  Bay.  It  has  an  area  of 
68^  sq.  M.,  and  a  population  of  33,029  (in  1870).  The  drives  about  the 
upper  part  of  the  island  are  very  attractive,  especially  those  on  Rich- 
mond Terrace,  the  Serpentine  Road,  Glove  Road,  Vauderbilt  Avenue,  and 
to  Silver  Lake  and  Ocean  View.  There  are  broad  views  fromi  the  heights 
over  the  bay  and  the  ocean.  The  mts.  of  N.  J.  are  in  the  W.;  and  to 
the  N.  R  ai'e  the  thronged  harbor  and  the  great  cities. 

Hudson  visited  the  island  in  1009,  and  in  1680  Michael  Pauw  established  hers 
the  feudal  domain  of  Pavonia.  The  first  village  was  founded  in  1639,  and  was 
destroyed  4  years  later  by  the  Indiana.  Many  French  Hiigiienots  settled  here 
after  the  revocation  of  the  Edict  of  Xantes ;  and  the  British  held  possession 
during  the  Bevolution,  though  much  harassed  by  partisan  attacks  fh>m  the  N.  J. 
shore  (especially  those  under  Gen.  Sullivan,  Au^.  21, 1777,  when  150  British  soldiers 
were  made  prisoners,  and  by  Lord  Stirling,  with  2,500  men,  in  1780).  Extensive 
encampments  were  formed  here  in  1812-15,  and  during  the  Secession  War. 

New  Brighton  (St.  Mark's ;  Pavilion ;  Belmont ;  summer  hotels)  is  a 
populous  village,  containing  9  churches  and  many  pleasant  villas  of  N. 
Y.  merchants.  To  the  W.,  and  fronting  on  the  Kill  Von  Kull,  are  the 
fine  buildings  of  the  Sailors'  Snug  Harbor,  which  was  founded  in  1831, 
for  the  support  of  aged  and  disabled  seamen  w^o  have  sailed  for  5  years 
from  the  port  of  N.  Y.  It  accommodates  300  men,  and  has  lai^ge  rev- 
enues. Near  the  Snug  Harbor  is  an  asylum  for  130  destitute  children  of 
seamen.  Port  Richmond  is  a  manufacturing  village  W.  of  this  point. 
Tonijskinsville  is  under  the  heights,  which  are  310  ft.  above  the  sea,  and 
was  formerly  the  site  of  the  extensive  Quarantine  buildings,  destroyed 
by  the  people  in  1858.  The  present  N.  Y.  Quarantine  is  **  without  a 
rival  in  the  wotld,"  and  is  located  on  Dix  and  Hoffman  Islands,  2  arti- 
ficial works  on  West  Bank  Shoal,  2^  M.  S.  of  the  Narrows,  and  1^  M. 
from  the  shore.  There  is  also  a  hospital-ship  moored  in  the  Lower  Bay, 
and  cases  of  ship-fever  and  small-pox  are  sent  respectively  to  Ward's  and 
Blackwell's  Island.     VaTuUrbilt'a  Landing  is  uear  the  villages  of  Staple^ 


46      J!l(mU4* 


STATEN  ISLAND. 


\ 


\ 


ton  and  Clifton,  which  front  on  the  Nftrrows.  In  this  vicinity  is  the 
Seamen's  Retreat  (accommodating  200  sick  seamen);  also  the  Mariners* 
Family  Asylum,  and  St.  Mary's  Orphan  Asylum.  On  Clifton  Heights  is 
the  Chestnut  Orove  Hmtse,  a  summer  hotel  overlooking  the  Bay. 

The  Staten  Island  R.  R.  runs  S.  W.,  by  the  Moravian  hamlet  of  New 
Dorp  to  Court-House,  which  is  near  Richmond,  the  county-seat,  where 
is  the  venerable  Church  of  St.  Andrew,  built  in  1713,  and  rebuilt  in  1867. 
The  Lower  Bay  and  Baritan  Bay  are  often  seen  on  the  1.  as  the  train 
passes  through  the  broad  town  of  Westfield  (famous  for  oysters),  and  the 
low  shores  of  Sandy  Hook  are  visible  in  the  distance.  Near  Tottenville, 
the  terminus  of  the  road,  is  the  old  Billop  House,  where,  after  the  Battle 
of  Long  ][sland.  Lord  Howe  held  a  barren  conference  with  Franklin, 
Adams,  and  Rutledge,  who  had  been  sent  by  Congress  to  treat  for  peace. 
A  steam-ferry  crosses  from  Tottenville  to  Perth  Amboy,  whence  trains 
run  to  New  York,  by  way  of  Rahway  and  Newark,  in  27  M. 

The  Fortifleattons.  —  1  M.  8.  E.  of  Clifton  is  Fort  Richnwnd,  situated  on  a 
high  blul^  and  luouutiug  140  guns.  It  is  a  massive  worlc,  with  granite  walls, 
second  only  to  Fortress  Monroe  in  strength,  and  arranged  to  deliver  a  plunging 
lire  on  the  Narrows.  Attached  to  Fort  Bichmond  are  4  cliff-batteries,  mounting 
80  heavy  cannon  ;  and  at  the  water-side  is  Fort  Tompkins,  with  40  guns  sweeping 
the  channel.  Fort  Hamilton  is  opposite  Fort  Richmond,  and  is  a  rectangular 
bastioned  worlc  of  blue  granite,  with  a  peace-garrison  of  3  companies,  in  case- 
mate-barraclcs.  It  has  a  water-battery  of  18  15-inch  guns,  and  2  Ihies  of  heavy 
batteries  on  the  Bath  Road,  commanding  the  Ix)wer  Bay  and  Graveseud  Bay. 
Several  of  these  guns  are  Rodmans,  throwingl,000-pound  shot.  The  main  work 
mounts  80  guns,  cost  9600,000,  and  was  built  1824  -  32.  A  fleld-battery  on  this  posi- 
tion was  demolished  by  a  broadside  Arom  the  British  line-of-battie  ship  Asia  in  1770. 
On  a  reef  200  yards  offshore  is  Fort  La/ayette,  which  was  built  in  1812,  cost9350,000, 
mounted  73  guns,  and  wa.s  famous  as  a  prison  for  disloyal  civilians  during  the 
Secession  War.  It  was  burnt  out  in  1868,  and  has  not  yet  been  re-armed.  On 
Sandy  Hook  is  a  well-armed  lunette,  with  flanking  batteries,  to  keep  the  Lower 
Bay  clear.  After  passing  the  400  heavv  guns  which  bear  on  the  Narrows  (at  this 
point  less  than  1  M.  wide),  a  hostile  fleet  would  enter  the  convergent  fire  of  the 
800  guns  of  the  forts  of  the  inner  harbor.  Some  years  ago  surveys  were  made 
for  a  fort  on  Coney  Island,  but  were  stopped  after  Maury's  report  to  Congress,  in 
which  that  skilfUl  engineer  said,  "Were  it  possible  for  an  enemy,  with  the  greatest 
army  that  was  ever  led  into  battle  by  the  greatest  captain,  to  take  the  countrjr  by 
surprise,  and  to  land  on  Long  I-sland,  ....  and  to  be  disembarking  his  last  piece 
of  artillery  before  he  was  discovered,  the  perfection  of  our  railroad  and  telegraph 
system  is  such  as  would  enable  the  government,  before  he  cou)d  reach  the  heights 
of  Brooklyn,  to  have  there  in  waiting,  and  readv  to  receive  him,  and  beat  him 
back  to  the  sea,  a  force  two  to  one  greater  than  his,  however  strong." 

I  ■ 

I 

4.   The  South  Shore  of  Long  Idand. 

By  the  S.  Side  R.  R.,  whose  W.  terminus,  at  the  foot  of  S.  8th  St.,  Brool:lyn,  is 
reached  by  ferry-boats  from  the  foot  of  Grand  St.  and  of  Roosevelt  St.,  N.  Y.,  or 
by  the  Greenpoint  horse-cars  tyom  Fulton  Ferry,  Brooklyn.  Trains  run  to  Patch- 
ogue,  the  £.  terminus,  in  2^-3  hrs.  Fare  to  Rockaway,  60c.  ;  Islip,  #1.25; 
Fatchogue,  $1.50.  ; 

Stations,  Brooklyn ;  Bushwick  Avenue,  2  M. ;  Berlin,  9 ;  Jamaica,  10 ;  Spring- 
field,  11^ :  Valley  Stream,  16  (crossing  of  branch  lines  to  Hempstead,  and  to 
Woodsburgh,  18 ;  Far  Rockaway,  21 ;  Seaside  House,  25) ;  Pearsall's  Coi-ner,  18 ; 
Rockville  Centre,  19  :  Merrick,  24 ;  S.  Oyster  Bay,  28 ;  Amityville,  81 :  Babylon, 
W;  Islip,  43  ;  Fatchogue,  64. 


BOCKAWAT  BEACH. 


M4mU4>      47 


Spring- 

and  to 

nier,,18; 


'^The  train  It  drawn  from  the  itation  by  a  dummy-engine,  and  a  looo^ 
motive  is  attached  at  Bushwiek  Ave..  To  the  r.  of  Olendale  station  it 
Cypreie  Hills  Cemetery  (see  page  42).  The  train  passes  the  Oreen  Hilli, 
and  soon  reaches  Janudoft  (see  Bonte  5).  From  Jamaica  the  line  mns  & 
K  over  broad  alluvial  plains,  and  beyond  the  hamlet  of  Springfield  the 
long  earth-covered  line  of  the  Brooklyn  Aqueduct  is  crossed.  From  Val- 
ley Stream  a  branch  B.  B.  runs  N.  £.  to  Hempstead  (see  Boute  6) ;  and 
another  branch  diverges  to  the  S.  W.  to  Bookaway  BaMli.  Near  Woods- 
burgh  is  the  *  WoodtXmrgh  Pavilion^  a  new  and  spacious  summer-hotel^ 
with  cottages  connected.  The  Neptune  House  is  smaller.  A  short  dis- 
tance beyond  is  Far  Bockaway,  a  smdl  hamlet  with  several  beach-hotels,- 
the  best  of  which  are  the  AtUmtie,  United  States,  PatUion,  and  NaUtmali 
This  was  formerly  the  most  fashionable  of  the  N.  Y.  beaches,  and  is  re- 
gaining much  of  its  old  popularity.  The  surf-6athing  has  been  much  im-^ 
proved  by  the  washing  away  of  tUe  sand-bar  which  formerly  fronted  the 
beach  ;  and  wild  ducks  and  bluefish  are  successfully  sought  in  the  vicinity. 
To  the  W.  is  Bockaway  Beach,  a  long  and  narrow  sandy  peninsula  which 
runs  8  M.  W.  between  the  ocean  and  Jamaica  Bay,  a  broad  inlet  which 
encloses  several  marshy  islands.  On  this  strand  the  Bockaway  Indians 
formerly  made  much  wampum.  Near  the  end  of  the  beach  the  Brietol 
was  wrecked  in  1836,  and  77  lives  were  lost.  Surf-bathing  is  obtained  on 
the  S.  side  of  the  beach,  and  still-water  bathing  on  the  N.  During  th» 
simimer  many  visitors  come  here  by  means  of  the  horse-cars  from  Fulton 
Ferry  to  E.  New  York,  and  a  dummy-train  thence  to  Canarsie  (3^  M.), 
whence  steamboats  cross  Jamaica  Bay  to  the  beach  in  6  -  8  M.  The  inin- 
cipal  hotels  on  the  beach  are  HammePs  and  the  Seaside,  at  the  latter  of 
which  (4  M.  from  Far  Bockaway)  the  branch  B.  B.  ends. 

Thd  main  line  passes  E.  from  Valley  Stream  by  Pearsall's  Comer  to 
Bockville  Centre,  S.  of  which  is  Near  Bockaway  and  Hempstead  Bay, 
abounding  in  islands  (on  one  of  which  the  Mexico  was  wrecked  in  .WI, 
and  116  lives  were  lost).  The  train  now  traverses  wide  plains,  through 
which  flow  prolific  trout-streams  (preserved).,  and  passes  several  small 
hamlets.  S,  Oyster  Bay  is  near  the  bay  of  that  name,  and  has  2  hotels; 
and  Amityville  ( South  Side  House;  Ketcham  House)  is  near  the  W.  end 
of  the  Great  South  Bay.  Babylon  (Lagrange  House;  American; 
Sampwanis)  is  a  comfortable  village  built  on  2  intersecting  streets,  and 
famous  for  its  fishing  (10  tons  of  fish  are  sometimes  sent  to  N.  Y.  in  a 
single  day).  ^  M.  S.  are  the  broad  waters  of  the  Great  S.  Bay;  and  stages 
run  from  the  station  to  the  landing  (1  M.),  whence  a  steamboat  crosses 
several  limes  daily  to  Eire  Island  (8  M.  S.  E.).  This  beach  oeeupies  the 
W,  end  of  that  remarkable  peninsula  of  sand-dunes  which  extends  for 
nearly  40  M.  to  the  N.  E.,  with  a  width  of  but  a  few  rods.  It  shelters 
the  broad  estuaries  of  Great  S.  Bay,  Moriches  Bay,  and  Shinnecock  B.«y ; 


48      JtouU  5, 


FIRE  ISLAND. 


\ 


and  is  joined  to  the  mainland  by  the  isthmus  of  Quogne  Neck,  abont  8S 
M.  from  Fire  Island.  This  vast  strand  is  one  of  the  most  lonely  and  soli- 
tary places  on  the  coast,  but  affords  good  bathing  (surf  or  still-water), 
and  a  large  fleet  of  pleasure-lK)ats  is  kept  near  the  hotels.  The  exciting 
sport  of  bluefishing  is  much  in  vogue  off  the  inlet  and  in  the  Bay.  The 
*  Surf.  House  (500  guests)  is  a  large  and  fashionable  hotel ;  and  the  Old 
Dominy  House  is  smaller  but  comfortable.  Near  these  hotels  is  the  Fire 
Island  Light,  a  revolving  light  on  a  tower  150  ft  high,  visible  for  19  M. 
at  sea.  This  is  one  of  the  most  important  lights  on  the  coast  for  in  and 
out  bound  vessels,  from  its  relation  to  N.  Y.  Bay.  Numerous  wrecks 
have  occurred  on  this,  strand,  in  one  of  which  Margaret  Fuller,  Countess 
d'Ossoli,  was  lost  (1850). 

Beyond  Babylon  the  lino  passes  the  villas  of  Bay  Shore  (seat  of  the 
Olympic  Club)  and  Islip  Centre,  and  reaches  Itlip  (*  Pavilion  ;  StUlin- 
werfs),  a  pleasant  village  in  a  fruit-producing  district,  and  near  the  trout- 
ponds  and  fine  club-house  of  the  Sportsmen's  C!lub.  Islip  is  much  visited 
in  summer,  and  has  several  pretty  villas  near  the  Great  S.  Bay.  The 
hotels  on  Fire  Island  Beach  are  seen  on  the  S.  The  train  now  passes  the 
hamlets  of  OakdcUe,  SayvfUe  (1,200  inhabitants ;  4  churches,  several  sum- 
mer boarding-houses),  and  Bayport,  and  reaches  the  present  terminus  of 
theR.  R.  at  Patohocpie  (S.  Side  Hotel  and  Roe's  Hotel,  $2.50  a  day; 
And  several  boarding-houses  at  $  8- 12  a  week).  This  is  a  busy  village  of 
8,000  inhabitants,  manufacturing  rope,  paper,  and  flour,  and  is  nearly  1 
M.  from  the  Great  S.  Bay.  Trout  and  perch  are.  found  in  the  ponds; 
larger  fish  abound  in  the  Bay;  and  oysters  and  clams  are  found  in  laige 
quantities. 

4  M.  S.  across  the  Bay  is  Watch  Hill,  on  Fire  Island  Beach,  12- 15  M.  N.  E.  of 
Fire  Island  Light;  and  4  M.  N.  of  Patchogue  is  Medford,  (in  the  L.  I.  R.  R. 
Stages  ran4M.E.  fh)m  Patchogue  to  Moriches  aud  South  Haven,  yaaaing  Bellport, 
a  pleasant  village  on  Bellport  Bay,  with  numerous  boarding-houses  (i^  7  - 10  a  yreek). 
Across  the  Bay  and  near  the  hainlet  of  Mastic  are  the  remains  of  Fort  George,  a 
Tory  post  which  was  attaclced  in  1780  by  Tallmoge's  light  dragoons.  The  Ameri- 
cans burst  through  the  stoolcade  late  at  night,  and  assailed  the  redoubt  on  3  sides, 
shouting,  "  Washington  and  Olory."  The  Tory  garrison,  numbering  300  men,  sur- 
rendered unconditionally,  and  was  deported  into  Conn. 


&  Longlfllaiid.  The  North  and  East  Shores. 

By  the  Long  Island  R.  R.  and  its  branches,  whose  W.  terminus  is  at  Hunter's 
Point  (above  Broolclyn),  and  is  reached  by  ferry-boats  from  James  Slip  aud  Arom 
84th  St,  N.  T.  Trains  run  to  Greenport,  the  E.  terminus,  in  4-4^  hrs.  Fare  to 
Hempstead,  50c.;  Huntington,  05c.;  Riverhead,  #2.30;  Greenpoi-t,  |2.75;  Sag 
Harbor,  $2.75. 

Stations,  Hunter's  Point ;  Woo^side,  S  M. ;  Winfield,  4  ;  Jamaica,  10  (Brook- 
lyn Central  Branch  to  E.  New  Yorl();  Queens.  13 ;  Hvde  Park,  16^ ;  Minebla,  19 
(branch  lines  to  Hempstead,  21^  ;  Roslyn,  23^ ;  Qlenhead,  25^;  Glen  Cove,  27^ : 
and  Locust  Valley) ;  Westbury,  22 ;  Hicksville,  25  (Nortliport  Branch  to  Syosset, 
29 ;  Huntington,  84| :  Northpbrt,  40 ;  St  Jbhnsland,  45 ;  Smithtown,  48| ;  St 
James,  61^ ;  Betau^et,  56| ;  aud  Fort  Jefferson,  69) ;  Jerusalem,  28 ;  Farmiogdale, 


E.  of 

Ra     R. 

tellport, 

[a  week). 

leorge,  a 

Aiiieri- 

3  sides, 

giir- 


[unter's 
kidftom 

{Fare  to 
r&;  Sag 


\        * 


1 

R 

1 

h 

ol 

■ 

si 

7, 

tl 

\ 

ol 

« 

V 

A 

P] 

JAMAICA. 


nonius.      49 


.,  86 ;  Brtntwood,  41 ;  N.  IiUp.  4S^ :  Ukaknd.  48 ;  Holbraok.  80 1 
Mllport.  601 :  Yapluuik,  50 :  Manor,  6ft  (divaistnoe  of  B$g  Harbor 


it 


S^*.'-  ' 


Good 

urbor,  100);. 

Hermltags,  88 ; 


S0:1>MrI'ailK, 

If •dfbrd,  ft4  :  B.«^. ., 

Branch  to  MoriehM,  70 ;  Bpeonk,  78 ;  W.  Hampton,  7ft : 

Ground,  88 ;  Boutbampton,  90 ;  BridMhampton,  96 :  and 

Riverhead,  73 ;  JameMport,  78 ;  Mattituok,  82 ;  Cutohogue, 

Ooiitiiold,  00;  OfMnport,  04. 

LnnK  lalantj  ^nolndes  the  3  S.  E.  counties  of  the  State  of  N.  T.,  and,  ac- 
cording to  Walt  Whitman,  has  the  form  of  a  flah.  It  la  140  M.  long,  oontaina 
1,080  square  M.,  and  haa  (excluaive  of  Brooklyn)  144,810  Inhabitanta.  On  the  N. 
ia  Long  Island  Sound  ("  the  American  Mediterranean  "),  which  is  2ft  M.  broad  at 
Ita  ^reateat  width,  and  ia  the  chief  avenue  of  commerce  and  travel  between  N. 
Y.  and  the  Eaatem  States.  It  ia  thought  that  when  the  obatructlona  at  Hell 
Gate  are  removed,  N.  Y.  City  will  change  flront  to  the  E..  and  the  European 
commerce  will  enter  the  port  by  way  of  the  Sound.  The  ialand,  at  ita  W.  end, 
Mheltera  N.  Y.  Harbor,  and  at  the  B.  end  breaka  into  a  chain  of  narrow  penin- 
aulaa  and  ialands.  On  the  S.  ia  a  continuous  line  of  broad  lagoona,  aeparated 
fW>m  the  ocean  by  narrow  aand-bars.  The  soil  is  an  alluvial  sandy  loam,  for  the 
most  part  level,  and  very  productive  when  fertilised.  The  population  (outside  of 
Brooklyn)  is  mostlv  agricultural  and  nuuritlme,  and  supplies  the  metropolia  with 
great  quantitiea  of  fhiit  and  vegetables,  llsh,  oysters,  and  clams.  The  island  it 
well  served  by  lines  of  railroad  and  steamboats,  and  contains  many  ikvorite  seae 
side  resorts. 

There  were  18  tribes  of  Indians  resident  here,  most  of  whom  were  engaged  in 
the  mannfkcture  of  wampum.  The  Montauka  were  the  most  formidable,  and 
waged  ftvquent  wara  with  the  Pequota  on  the  malukmd.  The  European  occupa< 
tiou  was  commenced  early  in  the  17th  century,  by  the  Puritans  on  the  E..  and 
the  Dutch  on  the  W.  The  former  annexed  their  insular  towns  to  Connecticut  i 
but  after  the  British  conquest  of  N.  Y.  (in  1664)  they  Joined  the  latter  province. 
The  island  waa  held  by  the  Britiah  armv  throughout  the  Revolution,  unmolested 
save  by  forays  made  in  whale-boata  nrom  the  Conn,  ooaat.  The  comparative 
mildness  of  the  climate  and  the  cheapneas  of  the  aoil  have  Induced  many  settlari 
to  locate  here  aince  the  completion  of  the  railroad  system. 

.  Passing  oat  through  Hunter's  Point  (Long  Island  City),  the  train  runt 
by  Woodaide,  with  its  embowered  villas,  and  Winjieldf  where  the  Flush- 
ing and  N.  Side  R.  R.  crosses  the  presefft  route.  Station,  Jamftio*  {Rem- 
ten  House  ;  Union),  a  pleasant  and  prosperous  village  in  the  midst  of 
a  district  of  market-gardens.  It  has  3,791  inhabitants,  a  new  town-hall, 
8  weekly  papers,  7  churches,  and  several  academies. 

Jamaica  was  formerly  the  seat  of  the  Jameko^Indians,  and  was  settled  by  men 
of  New  England  in  1650,  under  permission  txom  the  Dutch  authorities  at  N.  Y, 
The  name  of  Rusdorp  was  given  to  the  village ;  and  during  the  pestilence  at  N. 
Y.,  in  1702,  the  government  of  l|^e  province  was  located  here.  The  S.  Side  R.  R. 
(Route  4)  passes  through  this  village ;  and  tlie  Brooklvu  Central  Branch  R.  R. 
runs  W.  to  ClarenceviUe,  Woodhaven,  Union  Course  (the  race-course  here  has 
been  discontinued).  Cypress  Avenue  (with  Cypress  Hills  Cemetery  to  the  N.),  and 
E.  New  York.  Horse-cars  also  run  to  E.  New  York  (connecting  for  Canardie  and 
Rockaway,  and  for  Fulton  Ferry).  The  low  ridge  called  the  Backbone  of  Long 
Island  is  8een  on  the  L,  as  the  train  passes  E.  by  Queens  and  the  level  commons 
of  Hyde  Park  to  Mineola,  the  county-seat. 

A  branch  line  runs  20I.  S.  to  Hempstead  (2  hotels),  a  place  of  2,816  inhabitants, 
situated  on  the  great  Hempstead  Plains,  which  aie  15  M.  lohg  lind  4  M.  wide. 
7,000  acres  on  the  Plains  were  bought  by  A.  T.  Stewart,  and  a  R.  R.  was  built 
thence  to  Brooklyn,  with  intent  to  found  a  residence-city  for  the  working-people 
of  N.  Y.  Hempstead  was  settled  in  1643  by  a  Puritan  church  firom  Weatiiers- 
tteld.  Conn.  Its  leader  was  Rev.  Richard  Denton,  of  whom  Cotton  Mather  said , 
"His  well-accomplished  mind  in  his  lesser  body  was  an  Iliad  in  a  nutsheu."^ 
A  branch  of  the  S.  Side  R  R.  leads  S.  ftom  Hempstead  to  Rockaway  Beach. 

Tht  Olen  Cove  Brunch  runs  N.  firom  Hempstead  to  Boaiya  {Mamion  Hwm\  a 
pleasant  village  at  the  head  of  Hempstead  Harbor.    Inttiis  vicinity  is  Cadu^ 

8  D 


50      HouU  5. 


OYSTER  BAY. 


1^ 


mere,  tlie  home  of  the  venerable  poet  and  journalist,  William  Cullen  Bryant  S. 
E.  of  Roslyn  is  Harbor  Hill,  the  highest  summit  on  L.  1.(319  ft),  whence  are 
obtained  pleasant  views  over  the  8ouud;  and  a  few  M.  N.  W.,  on  Manhasset 
Necic,  is  Sands'  Point,  with  a  quiet  summer  hotel.  In  this  township  (N.  Hemp- 
etead)  a  colony  of  people  from  Lynn,  Mass.,  settled  about  1640,  but  were  speedily 
driven  away  by  tlie  Dutch.  S.  L.  Mitchill,  the  scientist,  and  Willard  Post,  the 
eminent  physician,  were  natives  of  this  town.  From  Boslyn,  tl>e  train  runs  N. 
near  Hempstead  Harbor,  to  Olen  Cove  (*  Pavilion  House,  with  broad  piazzas 
fronting  the  water),  tiie  seat  of  a  large  starch-factory.  Dr.  Valentine  Mott  was  a 
native  of  this  village.  There  are  many  Quakers  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  shores 
of  the  harbor  are  much  visited  in  summer.  The  present  terminus  of  the  Glen 
Cove  Branch  is  at  Locust  Valley,  4  M.  N.  £.  of  Olen  Cove. 

Beyond  Mineola,  the  L.  I.  B.  R.  runs  N.  E.,  by  the  dairy-lands  of 
Westbury,  to  Hicksville.  To  the  N.  is  Jericho,  which  was  bought  of  the 
Indians,  in  1650,  by  Robert,  the  brother  of  Roger  Williams.  Here  Elias 
Hicks,  the  Quaker  schismatic,  lived  and  preached  from  1771  to  1830.  He 
rode  10,000  M.  on  his  missionary  circuits,  and  preached  over  1,000  times, 
and  was  an  opponent  of  war  and  slavery.  The  Northport  Branch  nins 
from  Hicksville  N.  E.  to  Syosset,  whence  stages  run  to  Oyster  Bay 
and  Cold  Spring  (*  Wauwepek  House),  a  pretty  village  on  Cold  Spring 
Harbor.  This  deep  inlet  from  L.  I.  Sound  is  much  visited  in  summer ; 
and  its  best  hotel  is  *  Laurelton  Hall,  a  new  and  costly  house,  with  100 
rooms,  situated  on  a  \yrooded  hill  oNcrlooking  the  water  (reached  by  steam- 
boat from  Pier  37  E.  R.,  at  4  p.  m.).  Many  farm-houses  about  Syosset 
Bay  take  summer  boarders  at  moderate  prices. 

Lloyd's  Neck,  a  high  and  far-viewing  peninsula  facing  the  Sound,  was  bought 
of  the  Sachem  Ratux^an  in  1654,  and  was  formed  into  the  manor  of  Queen's 
Village.  It  was  fortified  by  the  British  in  the-  Revolution,  and  the  Duke  of 
Clarence  (afterward  King  William  ly.)  was  an  officer  in  the  garrison.  Here 
was  the  head-quarters  o>  the  Board  of  Associated  Loyalists,  whose  irregular 
troops  fought  all  along  the  Sound  with  the  Coimectiuut  whale-boat  men.  In  July, 
1781,  Count  fiarras  sent  3  French  frigates  from  Newport  to  attack  the  fort,  then 
garrisoned  by  800  men.  The  naval  boinbanlment  was  ineffectual,  the  column  of 
ti*oops  ^uuder  Baron  de  Angely)  which  assaulted  the  works  was  repulsed,  and  the 
expedition  returned  to  Newport.  In  1778-9,  Simcoe's  Queen's  Rangers  occupied 
and  fortified  Oyster  Bay ;  and  later  in  the  same  year  the  Americans  attacked 
Lloyd's  Neck  at  night,  carried  the  works,  and  led  the  garrison  (500  men)  captive 
to  Connecticut.  In  1672,  George  Fox  preached  from  a  large  rock,  which  is  still 
shown,  in  Oyster  Bay  village.  This  i>lace  was  the  boundary  between  the  Dutch 
and  English  colonics  (as  established  by  the  Treaty  of  Hartford,  in  1650),  and  was 
settled  in  1653  by  a  nomadic  Pilgrim  church  from  Sandwich,  Mass.,  the  laud 
having  been  purchased  from  Assiapum,  Sachem  of  the  Matineoocks.  Near 
Oyster  Bay  (in  1776)  was  captured  Capt.  Nathan  Hale  of  Congress's  Own  Regi- 
ment (Conn,  line),  who  had  been  sent  by  Washington  to  examine  the  British 
camps  and  works  at  Brooklyn.  He  was  executed  the  next  day  as  a  spy,  and, 
though  biit  21  yenrs  of  age,  met  his  fate  bravely,  his  last  words  being.  "  I  only 
regret  that  I  have  but  one  life  to  give  for  my  country."  His  farewell  letters  to 
his  itiends  were  destroyed  by  the  British  provost-marshal,  "tliat  the  rebels 
should  not  know  they  had  a  man  in  their  army  who  could  die  with  so  much 
limmess." 

The  train  passes  N.  E.  from  Syosset  to  Hantington,  wliich  was  founded 

in  1654,  and  was  fortified  in  1782  by  Thompson's  Royal  Dragoons.    Here 

were  born  B.  Y.  Prime,  the  poet,  and  N.  S.  Prinie,  the  divine,  whose 

sons,  S.  Ireneus  and  William  G.  Prime,  have  attained  high  ranks  in  their 


BONKONEOMA  LAER 


Routes,      51 


respective  departments  of  literature.  The  village  is  some  distance  N.  of 
the  station,  and  has  2,435  inhabitants,  6  churches,  and  several  repntable 
schools.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  Huntington  Harbor,  one  of  ths 
deep  and  irregular  inlets  which  open  on  L.  I.  Sound.  Station,  North- 
port  {Northport  Hotise;  Washington),  a  sequestered  village  at  the  head 
of  a  deep  and  hill-environed  harbor,^  much  visited  in  summer.  Ship- 
building is  the  chief  industry.  N.  of  St.  Johnsland  station  is  St.  John's 
Church,  a  printing-ofElce,  and  13  other  buildings,  forming  an  Episcopal 
charitable  establishment  which  pertains  to  St.  Luke's  Hospital,  of  N.  Y. 
City.  Smithtoion  station  is  N.  of  the  village  (founded  in  1665,  by. 
Bichard  Smith,  a  veteran  of  Cromwell) ;  and  St.  James  is  on  Stony 
Brook  Harbor.  Near  Smithtown  Bay  was  the  Tory  Fort  Slongo,  which 
was  stormed  at  dawn,  Oct.  10, 1781,  by  150  American  troops.  The  train 
now  passes  SetavJeet  (whose  first  pastor  was  the  first  American-bom 
graduate  of  Harvard)  and  stops  at  Fort  Teffonon  (large  summer-hotel), 
a  ship-building  village  with  3  churches  and  1,500  inhabitants.  A  steam 
ferry-boat  crosses  the  Sound  to  Bridgeport,  Conn.,  twice  daily.  The 
trend  of  the  coast  E.  from  Port  Jefferson  is  followed  for  many  miles  by  a 
highway,  which  passes  sev  ral  obscure  marine  hamlets. 


Beyond  Hicksville  the  main  line  of  the  L.  L  B.  B.  runs  S.  E.  by  Jem- 
salem  and  the  sandy  plains  of  Farmingdale,  then  turns  to  the  E.  by  a  line 
of  hills  and  passes  Deer  Park  and  Brentwood,  in  the  thinly  populated 
town  of  Huntington.  On  the  1.  are  the  West  and  the  Dix  Hills.  From 
N.  Islip  stages  ran  S.  to  Islip  (see  page  48)  in  4-5  M.  The  train  now 
crosses  the  level  brush  plains  to  Lakeland,  which  is  1  M.  S.  of  Ronkon- 
koma  Lake,  a  pretty  sheet  of  fresh  water  among  the  forests.  There  are 
several  summer  residences  on  the  shores,  and  the  sailing  and  perch-fishing 
are  good.    The  Lake  House  is  of  good  repute. 

The  Lake  is  1  M.  in  diameter,  "  of  singular  transparency  and  wonderftil  depth," 
and  is  bordered  by  a  beach  of  white  sand.  It  has  no  inlet  or  outlet ;  and  rises 
and  falls  every  4  vears.  To  the  S.  extends  the  town  of  Islip,  which  was  formerly 
densely  populated  by  the  Patohogae  and  Secatogue  Indians,  who  were  engaged  in 
the  manufacture  of  wampum  (the  money  of  the  aboriginal  Americans  ;  consisting 
of  the  thick  blue  part  of  sea-clam  shells,  ground  into  the  form  of  bugle  beads, 
and  strung  upon  hempen  cords  a  foot  long).  The  town  was  settled  and  named 
by  immigrants  ttom.  Islip,  in  old  Oxfordshire ;  and  was  incorporated  in  1700. 

Beyond.  Lakeland  the  train  passes  the  rural  hamlets  of  Holbrook, 
"Waverly,  and  Medford.  From  Bellport  station  stages  ran  S.  3  M.  to 
Bellport  (see  page  48).  At  Yaphank  the  line  crosses  the  Connecticut 
Biver  (of  L.  I.)  and  traverses  the  "Wild  District."  Stages  ran  S.  W. 
from  Yaphank  (and  from  Manor  also)  to  Centre  Moriches  {Ocean  House ; 
Moriches;  Long  Idand ;  Baldwin),  a  pleasant  village  which  is  much 
▼isited  in  summer.    Large  quantities  of  fish,  crabs,  and  wild  fowl  are 


92      Route  B, 


SAG  HARBOR 


: 


sent  thence  to  N.  Y.  Sail-boats  run  regularly  across  the  Bay  to  the  outer 
beach,  where  the  Havens  House  is  situated  and  surf-bathing  is  practised. 
There  are  numerous  summer  boarding-houses  in  Moriches  and  across  the 
Tenillo  River  at  E.  Moriches  ($6  - 10  a  week).  Beyond  Yaphank  the 
train  traverses  the  Wild  District  to  Manor. 

The  Sag  Harbor  Branch  runs  S.  E.  from  Manor  to  Moriches  (stages  to 
the  bay-side  Moriches),  Speonk  (fAnous  for  the  flne  eels  which  are  taken 
in  the  adjacent  waters),  W.  Hampton^  and  Quogue,  where  there  are 
several  large  boarding-houses.  The  lower  hamlet  is  surrounded  on  three 
sides  by  salt  water,  and  is  on  the  isthmus  which  joins  the  great  Firs 
island  Beach  to  the  mainland.  The  Shinnecock  Hills  are  on  the  1.  and 
Shinnecock  Bay  is  on  the  r.,  as  the  train  passes  near  Good  Ground  and  the 
lofty  lighthouse  of  Ponquogue.  At  Canoe  Place  the  line  traverses  a 
narrow  isthmus  between  the  Shinnecock  and  Great  Peconic  Bays,  and 
reaches  the  remote  Penhisula  of  Montauk.  The  Canoe  Place  clams  are 
esteemed  as  the  best  in  the  N.  Y.  markets. 

Southampton  is  a  sequestered  marine  village  near  the  ocean.  It  was 
Settled  in  1040  by  n  conipncy  from  Lynn,  Mass..  who  had  been  driven  by  the 
Dutch  fi*om  the  E.  part  of  L.  I. ;  and  in  1644  it  was  annexed  to  Connecticut; 
The  first  minister  of  this  tlieocratlc  colony  was  Abraham  Pierson,  who  leai-ne4 
the  language  of  the  L.  I.  Indians  and  preached  to  tliem.  According  to  Cotton 
Mather,  he  was  "  a  true  child  of  Abraham,  and  is  now  safely  lodged  in  the  Sinu 
Abraha  "  His  son  was  the  flrst  President  of  Yale  College.  Near  Canoe  Place, 
W.  of  Southampton,  Paul  Culfee  is  buried,  hard  by  his  ancient  church.  He  was 
a  negro-Indian  half-breed  irovci  the  Elizabeth  Islands ;  acquired  wealth  by  sea- 
faring pursuits  ;  devoted  his  life  to  the  elevation  of  the  two  downtrodden 
colored  races ;  and  was  one  of  the  founders  of  Sierra  Leone.  On  a  long  peninsula 
W.  of  Southampton  dwells  the  Shinnecock  tribe  of  Indians,  a  peaceful  Christian 
clan  whose  young  men  make  daring  sailors  and  whale  flshonnen.  Like  most  of 
the  tribes  along  the  Atlantic,  they  are  ranked  as  an  alien  community,  and  are  not 
liable  to  tha  duties  of  voting  and  paying  taxes.  The  peninsula  was  sold  by  the 
sachems  to  the  town  in  1703 ;  and  was  then  leased  back  to  the  tribe  for  the  tenu 
of  1,000  years,  at  an  annual  rent  of  one  ear  of  com. 

^'^The  train  passes  Mecox  Bay  and  Bridgehampton,  and  runs  N.  E.  to  Sag 
Harbor  (*  E.  End  House),  a  village  of  1,723  inhabitants,  with  a  bank 
and  3  weekly  papers.  It  is  situated  at  the  head  of  Northwest  Bay,  amid 
fine  marine  scenery  which  has  been  described  by  Cooper  in  the  "Sea 
Lions." 

Sag  Harbor  was  settled  by  Mass.  fishermen  in  1730,  and  was  made  a  port  of 
entiy  in  1764.  At  an  early  date  whales  were  killed  by  boats  f^m  the  beaches  in 
this  vicinity  ;  and  in  1841  Sag  Harbor  had  a  whaliiig  fleet  of  43  vessels  (40  of 
which  were  ships).  1,025  mariners  were  employed  on  these  vessels  ;  the  voyages 
were  made  to  the  S.  Atlantic  and  Pacific,  and  averaged  16  months  in  duration  ; 
and  in  1841  there  were  brought  into  this  port  6,726  barrels  of  sperm,  68,827  of 
oil,  and  482,110  lbs.  of  whalebone.  The  gold-fever  in  Califomia  paralyzed  this 
maritime  industry,  and  in  1870  there  were  Vnit  4  whaling-vessels  owned  here. 
For  25  years  the  village  has  been  decadent ;  but  since  the  construction  vOf  the 
R.  R.  (1869)  it  has  revived  somewhat,  and  is  now  mnoh  visited  in  summer.  In 
May,  1777,  130  Americans  crossed  L.  I.  Sound  from  New  Haven  in  whale-boats, 
and  surprised  by  night  the  British  gan-ison  at  this  point.  The  military  stpi'es 
here  collected  and  12  vessels  in  the  harbor  were  burned,  and  00  royalist  soldiera 
were  led  into  captivity.    In  1813  a  boat  expedition  firom  the  British  fleet,  whic^ 


MONTAUK  POINT. 


RotUe  5.      53 


((( 


lay  in  Gardiner's  Bay  througltout  the  War  of  1S12,  attempted  to  nnt  out  some 
vesaeU  from  before  the  village :  l)ut  the  invaders  were  driven  off  by  the  foil  and 
the  militia.  Steamboats  run  '  '^.  Pier  10,  E.  R.  N.  Y.  City,  at  5  p.  m.  on  Tues., 
Thurs.,  and  Sat,  to  Orient,  C  mort,  New  Suffolk,  and  Sag  Harbor,  —  returning 
at  4  p.  M.  on  the  alternate  d&  \the  fare  is  91.50).  The  steamer  Sunthint  runs 
ftt>m  Hartfonl  and  New  London  tConn.)  to  Oreenport  and  Sag  Harbor,  leaving 
Hartford  on  Tuea.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat,  and  returning  on  alternate  days. 

East  Hampton  ia  7  M.  S.  E.  of  Sag  Harbor  (daily  stages),  and  1  M. 
from  the  sea.  It  was  founded  in  1648  by  men  from  Essex  County,  Mass., 
who  protected  the  Indians  from  the  fierce  assaults  of  hostile  tribes.  From 
1657  to  1667  it  was  a  part  of  Connecticut ;  and  in  June,  1775,  nearly  every 
male  inhabitant  (253  in  number)  signed  an  agreement  to  support  the  Con- 
tinental Congress.  The  village  is  one  of  the  most  quaint  and  sequestered 
on  the  Atlantic  coast ;  and  has  gray  old  colonial  houses,  windmills,  and  a 
church  which  was  built  in  1652,  rebuilt  in  1717,  and  remodelled  in  1822. 
Lyman  Beecher,  "  the  father  of  more  brains  than  any  other  man  in  Amer- 
ica," was  pastor  here  from  1798  to  1810 ;  and  under  his  influence  the 
street  was  planted  with  the  elm-trees  which  are  now  the  pride  of  the  vil- 
lage. Summer  boarders  are  taken  at  several  houses.  S.  E.  are  several 
ponds  of  fresh  water  ;  S.  is  Napeague  Beach  (surf-bathing) ;  and  N.  E.  is 
the  hamlet  of  Amagansett. 

Montauk  Point  is  18-20  M.  N.  E.  of  East  Hampton,  and  Is  reached  by  a 
lonely  road  running  along  the  line  of  Napeague  Beach.  The  E.  part  of  the  town 
(including  9,000  acres)  is  an  unfenced  moor,  and  is  used  for  herding  cattle.  On 
this  tract  is  the  reservation  where  dwells  the  poor  remnant  of  the  Montauk  In- 
dians under  the  Sachem  Pharaoh.  Long  Island  was,  in  the  older  days,  the  mint  of 
the  Ahierican  Indians,  and  most  of  its  tribes  were  engaged  in  the  manufacture  of 
wampum.  The  MontauI{s  were  the  bravest  and  most  powerful  of  the  island 
tribes,  and  waged  fierce  wars  with  the  continental  Indians.  The  Sachem  Wvan- 
dance  ruled  alMut  the  middle  of  the  17th  century,  and  was  an  able  and  sagacious 
chief,  who  welcomed  the  English  colonists  and  became  their  allies.  There  are 
niany  quaint  legends  connected  with  this  district  Beyond  Amagansett  the  road 
traverses  for  many  M.  the  narrow  sandy  neck  between  the  ocean  and  Napeague 
Bay,  where  millions  of  menhaden  are  caught  yearly,  and  are  used  for  oil  and 
manure.  A  revenue-cutter  cruises  off  and  on  in  this  vicinity  to  prevent  snmg- 
gling  ;  and  5  -6  M.  to  the  N.  Gardiner's  Island  is  seen.  T^e  most  easterly  pointi 
of  L.  I.  is  nearly  insulated  by  Port  Pond,  and  is  partly  occupied  by  Great  Pond, 
a  sheet  of  f^sh  water  covering  500  acres.  On  the  extreme  E.,  situated  on  a  blutf 
over  the  sea,  is  the  lofty  tower  which  was  built  in  1860  for  the  Montauk  Light 
It  is  an  intense  fixed  light,  with  2  revolving  glasses,  and  a  white  flash,  which  is 
visible  for  19^  M.  This  superb  mechanism  was  sent  by  the  French  Government 
to  the  N.  Y.  Crystal  Palace,  and  was  afterwan^  presented  by  France  to  the  United 
States.  The  *  view  fh)m  the  gallery  is  one  of  tlie  finest  on  the  coast,  and  Includes 
Block,  Gardiner's,  Shelter,  Fisher's,  and  the  Gull  Islands,  the  shores  of  Conn, 
and  R.  I.,  and  a  broad  sweep  of  the  ocean.  Visitors  may  l)e  accommodated  at  the 
small  cottage  near  the  lighthouse  if  in  extremis ;  and  summer  camps  are  sometimes 
made  in  tlie  vicinity.  A  pleasant  excursion  may  l>e  had  by  running  dowr  in  a 
sail-boat  from  Sag  Harltor  by  Gardiner's  Island  and  Napeague  Bay  to  Montauk 
Point 

**  Ultima  Thule  of  thit  ancient  iile, 
Againit  whose  breait  tlie  everlaitina  aurfte 
Long  travelling  on,  and  ominoua  oxwrath 
•  .       Forever  beats.*^     

Mas.  SlOOVRNCT. 


54      Jtoute  5, 


SHtlLTEB  ISLAND. 


I 


li 


The  train  runs  near  the  Peconic  River  to  the  prosperous  village  of 
Biverliead  {Qriffin  Hotels  Suffolk;  L.  /.), .with  3  churches,  2  high- 
schools,  and  the  county  buildings  of  Suffolk  County.  The  surrounding 
country  is  pleasant,  and 'a  few  deer  and  trout  (protected)  are  found  in  the 
vicinity.  The  line  now  lies  near  the  N.  shore  of  Peconic  Bay,  through  the 
populous  farming  district  which  is  served  by  the  station  of  Jamesport. 
Station,  Mattituck  {Mattituck  House;  Odell  House),  among  the  low 
wooded  hills  between  Peconic  Bay  and  L.  I.  Sound,  and  well  served  with 
crabs  from  an  estuary  to  the  N.  New  Suffolk  lies  to  the  S.  K  on  Great 
Peconic  Bay,  and  is  a  summer  resort  Cutchogue  is  1 M.  N.  W.  of  the 
pleasant  village  of  that  name,  which  is  much  favored  by  city  visitors. 
Beyond  Hermitage  (otherwise  called  Peconic)  the  train  stops  at  Sonthold 
(Southold  Hotel),  a  quiet  an<l  cultured  hamlet  which  is  near  the  Sound  on 
the  N.  and  the  Bay  on  the  S.  Fishing,  sailing,  and  driving  are  the  sum- 
mer amusements  here.  2-3  M.  N.  on  Morton's  Point  is  a  fixed  white 
light  which  is  visible  16^  M.  Crossing  an  arm  of  Greenport  Harbor,  the 
train  reaches  the  terminal  station  at  Greenport  (Clark's  Hotel ;  Peconic  ; 
Wyandank),  a  thriving  village  with  1,819  inhabitants,  6  churches,  and  2 
weekly  papers.  The  roadstead  Is  deep  and  well  sheltered  (by  Shelter 
Island);  and  this  was  formerly  one  of  the  chief  whaling  ports.  The  cod- 
fishery  employs  several  vessels ;  and  a  large  fleet  (including  also  steamers) 
is  used  in  the  menhaden  fishery.  Tliere  are  17  factories  near  the  village 
where  the  oil  is  extracted,  after  which  the  refuse  animal  matter  is  used 
to  fertilize  the  fields.  All  manner  of  aquatic  sports  are  practised  by  the 
numerous  city  guests  who  make  Greenport  their  summer  home.  (Steam- 
ers to  N.  Y.  and  Hartford,  see  page  63. )  The  beaches  are  of  sand,  afford- 
ing still-water  bathing  ;  and  wild  ducks  are  successfully  hunted  in  their 
season.  9  M.  E.  (daily  stages)  down  the  narrow  peninsula  is  Orient 
Point,  vrith  its  great  *  summer-hotel  (300  guests);  and  at  Orient  Village 
are  4  boarding-houses  ($  8  - 10  a  week). 

Flum  Gut  is  a  narrow  strait  separating  Orient  Point  from  Plum  Td.,  which  cov- 
ers 800  apres,  and  was  bought  of  the  Corchoug  Indians  in  1659.  To  the  N.  E.  are 
the  small  Gull  Ids.,  ono  of  which  has  a  lighthouse  tower  62  ft.  high.  Farther  N. 
£.,  across  the  deep  channel  called  the  Race,  and  within  4  M.  of  New  London, 
Conn,  (see  Osgood's  New  England),  is  Fisher's  Island,  9  M.  long  and  1  M.  wide, 
containing  4,000  acres,  and  used  for  grazing  and  hay  crops.  It  was  named  Vis- 
sher's  Id.  by  Adrian  Bloclc,  in  1614,  was  bought  by  Gov.  Winthrop  in  1644,  and 
still  remained  in  tlie  Wintlirop  family  in  1S43.    Shelter  Id*  (ferry  from  Green- 

Eort)  is  a  picturesque  and  irregular-shored  island  U  by  4  M.  in  extent,  with  rolling 
ills,  fi^sh  ponds,  and  numerous  deep  inlets.  It  is  being  opened  up  as  a  summer 
retreat,  and  is  the  scat  of  a  large  Methodist  camp-meeting  ground,  tihelter  Id. 
was  the  home  of  the  Manhasset  Indians,  and  early  beoame  nn  appanage  of  the 
Earl  of  Stirling.  Settlements  were  made  in  1652  ;  and  in  1673,  when,  after  the 
Dutch  re-conquest  of  N.  Y.  City,  the  3  Puritan  towns  on  the  E.  of  L.  I.  refused 
to  acknowledge  their  authority,  a  Dutch  fleet  toolc  this  island,  but  was  checked 
from  further  operations  by  the  crossing  of  troops  from  Conn.  In  1764  George 
Whitefleld  )treaehed  here  with  such  success  that  he  was  constrained  to  ask,  "  And 
is  Shelter  Island  become  a  Patmos  ? "   The  town  was  incorporated  in  1730,  and  in 


18 
ac 
Lj 
H< 
fir 
pe 
an 


Mi 


m 


hil 


FLUSHING. 


MouUe,      55 


1870  had  686  inhabitants.  8  M.  to  the  E.  is  Gardiner's  Id.»  containing  8,800 
acres  oT undulating  land.  It  wis  the  Monchonouk  of  the  Indians,  who  sold  it  to 
Lyon  Gardiner  in  1639  for  some  rum  and  blankets,  a  gun,  and  a  large  black  dog. 
Here  Gardiner,  a  veteran  of  Cnmi  well's  and  the  Low  Countries  Wars,  made  the 
first  English  settlement  within  the  present  8tate  of  N.  Y.  It*  1640  the  adiacent 
peninsula  of  Southold  (the  Indian  Yennecocii)  was  settled  by  men  of  New  Haven 
and  a  migratory  church  from  llingham,  and  was  governed  by  the  Mosaic  code, 
under  Rev.  John  Youngs,  one  i>f  the  "  77  ttrst  ministers  of  New  England,  that 
first  enlightened  the  dark  regions  of  America  with  their  ministry*  (Cotton 
MatherV 

Shelter  Island  is  now  a  favorite  place  of  summer  rest.  The  *  Manhanset 
House  is  u  lai-gu  uud  ]>icture.sq':ie  summer-hotel,  in  a  park  of  200  acres  at  the  N. 
end  of  the  island,  near  the  quiet  Dering  Harbor.  There  are  many  pleasant  drives 
througii  ♦lie  ricli  country  beyond,  by  gn)ves  of  noble  old  oaks,  aiid  near  deeply 
receiised  arms  of  tlie  sea.  Broad  views  over  land  and  water  ai'e  afforded  from  the 
hills.  Miicti  water-fowl  is  to  be  found  in  tlie  beaclies  and  uplands,  and  fish 
abound  in  the  bays  and  inlets.  Shelter  Island  is  easily  reached  by  the  steaiu- 
ferry  from  Greenport  (1  M.  distant),  which  connects  with  the  trains  and  boats  at 
that  village. 

Capt.  Kidd  was  a  bold  N.  Y.  mariner,  who  was  sent  out  with  an  armed  vessel 
to  chase  the  pirates  from  the  coast.  He  succeeded,  and  sailed  on  the  Adventure 
with  150  men,  to  chastise  the  freebooters  of  the  E.  Indies.  But  after  rounding 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  he  turned  pirate  himself,  and  cruised  from  the  Red  Sea 
to  Malabar,  then  crossed  the  Indian  and  Pacific  Oceans,  rounded  Cape  Horn,  and 
swept  the  W.  Indies.  He  wao  captured  in  Boston,  and  was  executed  in  London 
in  1701.  Thousands  of  vision  ary  men  have  made  excavations  all  along  the  N.  At- 
lantic coast  in  hope  to  find  tr<}asures  that  Kidd  had  buried  ;  and  but  a  few  years 
since  costly  operations  tf>  this,  end  were  carried  on  at  the  Dunderberg  Mt.,  far  up 
the  Hudson  River.  Kidd  landed  on  Gardiner's  Id.  after  his  predatory  circuit  of 
the  world,  and  buried  vast  ti'easures,  of  which  75  ounces  of  gold,  633  ounces  of 
silver,  and  large  quantities  of  rare  jewels  and  precious  stones  were  recovered  in 
1699  by  the  Earl  of  Bellomont,  Gov.  of  Mass. 

6.   Long  Island.  The  Northwest  Shore. 

steamboats*  The  Arrcwsmith  leaves  Pier  24,  E.  R.,  and  83d  St.,  at  9.15  a.  m. 
for  Whitestone,  Sands'  Point,  Sea-Cliff  Grove,  and  Glen  Cove,  returning  at  1.45 
p.  M. ;  and  leaves  Pier  24  at  5  p.  m.  for  Whitestone,  Great  Neck,  and  Port  Wash- 
ington, returning  early  nexl;  morning.  The  Searvanhaka  leaves  Pier  24,  E.  R.,  at 
4  p.  M.  for  Whitestone,  Fori;  Schuyler,  Great  Neck,  Sea  Cliff,  Mott's  Dock,  Sands' 
Point,  Glen  Cove,  Glenwood,  arid  Roslyn,  returning  early  next  morning.  The  D. 
B.  Martin  leaves  Pier  37,  E.  R.,  and  33d  St.,  at  4  p.  m.  for  City  Id.,  Bay^'ille, 
Lloyd's  Neck,  Laurelton,  Huntington,  and  Cold  Spring,  returning  early  next 
morning.  The  Osseo  leaves  Peck  Slip,  E.  R.,  at  10.50  a.  m.  for  Flushing  and  Col- 
lege Point  ;  and  at  4  for  Unionport  and  College  Point. 

The  Flushing  and  N.  Side  R.  R.  runs  from  Hunter's  Point  to  Woodside,  3  M. ; 
Winfield,  4 ;  Newtown,  5  ;  Flushing,  8  ;  College  Point,  9 ;  Whitestone,  11 ;  Bay- 
side,  11 ;  Great  Neck,  14. 

The  railroad  is  the  more  expeditious  route,  but  the  steamboats  will  be 
preferred  by  tourists,  as  showing  the  interesting  shores  of  L.  I.  Sound. 
Passengers  on  these  vessels  can  return  to  N.  Y.  the  same  day. 
Flashing  is  a  cultured  and  wealthy  village  at  the  head  of  Flushing  Bay, 
with  6,223  inhabitants,  8  churches,  and  3  newspapers.  It  is  famous  for 
its  academies,  one  of  which  (Erasmus  Hall)  is  the  oldest  in  the  State ; 
and  for  its  great  tree-nurseries  and  botanical  gardens.  Many  N.  Y.  mer- 
chants have  villas  near  the  village;  and  the  surrounding  district  has  sev- 
eral pleasant  drives.  In  the  N.  part  is  a  monument  to  the  soldiers  who 
fell  in  the  Secession  War.    Flushing  was  settled  by  English  Quaker 


06      JtouUr,        NICW  YORK  TO  VERMONT.  ' 

I. 

exiles  ftt>m  Holland  in  I'^^S,  and  was  then  named  Vliiwingen.  The  Cen- 
tral II.  H.  qf  L,  L  posv'jH  from  Hunter's  Point  through  Flushing  to 
Stewart's  Purchase  on  Hempstead  Plains  and  Bnhylon.  College  Point 
is  a  new  village  of  8,662  inhabitants,  situated  near  the  point  on  which 
St.  Paul's  College  was  founded.  Whitestone  {Whitestone  Hotel)  is  a 
manufacturing  village,  near  the  Sound.  Near  Great  Nock  Landing  is  the 
Oriental  House,  a  pleasant  summer  resort ;  and  on  Sands'  Point  js  an* 
other  retired  and  fatihionablo  hotel.  On  Wilkins  Point  new  U.  S.  fortifl' 
cations  are  being  erected,  which,  with  Fort  Schuyler  (318  guns)  on  the 
opposite  shore,  command  the  entrance  to  N.  Y.  from  L.  I.  Sound.  The 
steamboats  for  Roslyn,  Cold  Spring,  the  Sound  ports,  and  the  Boston 
lines,  after  passing  up  the  East  Hiver  (see  page  85),  tuni  to  the  E.  above 
Astoria  and  pass  through  Hull  Gate  (8  M.  from  the  Battery  and  8  M. 
from  Throgg's  Neck),  with  Word's  Id.  on  the  1.  Woolsey's  Point  is 
then  rounded  on  the  r.,  and  the  boat  passes  Hiker's  Id.  (a  rendezvous  for 
troops  during  the  Secession  War),  with  Flushing  Bay  opening  to  the  S.  E. 
Running  now  between  College  Point  and  Whitestone  on  the  r.  and  the 
Westchester  shores  on  the  1.,  the  massive  fortifications  of  Fort  Schuyler 
and  Wilkins  Neck  are  passed,  and  the  course  is  laid  N.,  with  the  hills  of 
Great  Neck  on  the  r.  and  Throgg's  Neck  on  the  1.  OIT  Pelham  Neck  are 
seen  City  Id.  and  Hart's  Id.  (with  its  correctional  institutions).  Passing 
a  small  cluster  of  islets  on  the  1.  and  Sands'  Point  lighthouse  on  the  r., 
the  steamer  enters  the  broader  waters  of  the  Sound. 


7.  V ew  York  to  Vermont  The  Harlem  Route. 

The  N.  Y.  And  Harlem  R.  R.  was  completed  in  1862,  and  runs  N.  from  N.  T. 
along  the  borders  of  New  England  to  Chatham,  on  the  Boston  and  Albany  R.  K 
(128  M.),  whence  the  Harlem  Extension  R.  R.  nms  N.  to  Rutland,  Vennont 
(108  M.).  The  morning  mail-train  from  "S.  T.  connects  through  to  Rutland.  The 
line  traverses  a  highly  picturesque  region,  passing  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Salisbury 
and  Berkshire  HUis,  and  ascending  the  valleys  of  the  Green  Mts.  Fare  to  White 
Plains.  70n.  ;  to  Bedford,  $1.20  ;  to  Pawling,  92  ;  to  Millerton,  92.60;  to  Chat- 
ham Four  Corners,  9  2.76. 

Stations,  Grand  Central  Depot ;  Harlem,  4  M. ;  Mott  Huven  4^ ;  Melrose.  6 ; 
Morrisania,  7  ;  Trt^mont.  8 ;  Fordham,  10 ;  Williams'  Bridge.  11  (divergence  of  the 
N.  Y.  and  New  Haven  R.  R.) ;  W(»odlawn,  13 ;  W.  Mt.  Vernon,  14 ;  fironxville, 
10  :  Tuckahoe,  17  :  Scaradale,  20  ;  Hnrtadale,  21 ;  White  Flains,  2B  :  Kensico,  26 : 
Unionville,  29  ;  Pleasantville.  31 ;  Chnppa(iua,  83  ;  Mt.  Kisco,  88  ;  Bcdfc^rd.  40 ; 
Katonah,  43  ;  Golden 's  Bridge,  46  (diveigence  of  N.  Y.  and  Lake  Mahopac  R.  R. 
to  Somers  Centre,  4i> ;  Lake.  Moliopao,  62i) ;  Purdy's,  47 ;  Croton  Falls,  49 ; 
Brewster's  53 ;  Dyketnan's,  66  ;  Towner's,  69 ;  Patterstm,  fll ;  Pawling,  66  ;  S. 
Dover,  71 :  Dover  Plains,  78  ;  Wassaio,  82 ;  Amenia,  86  :  Shanm,  88  ;  Millerton, 
98  :  lit  Riga,  97  ;  Boston  Comers,  100 ;  Copake,  106 ;  Hillsdale,  110 ;  CraryviUe, 
112  :  Martindale,  116 ;  Philmont,  120  ;  Ghent,  126  :  Chatham  Four  Comers.  128 
(the  Boston  and  Albany  R  R  divei*ges  to  Albany,  162  M.  iVom  N.  Y.).  Harlem 
Extension  R  R  stations,  flrom  N.  Y.  to  Chatham,  133  M. ;  Rider's  Mill,  1.S9  ; 
New  Lolmnon,  146  ;  Ijebanon  Springs,  165  ;  N.  Stephentown,  169 ;  Centre  Berlin, 
162  :  Berlin,  167  :  Petersburg,  172 ;  Troy  and  Boston  R  R.  Junction,  175  ;  E. 
Hoosiok,  178 :  Bennington,  181 ;  N.  Bennington,  186 ;  S.  Shaftsbury,  187  ;  Shafts* 
bui7»  192 :  Arlington,  197  ;  Sunderland,  200 ;  Manchester,  206 ;  E.  Dorset,  211 ; 
N.  Dorset,  S14 ;  Danby  k  Mt  Tabon  218 ;  S.  Wallingford.  228 :  Wallingford.  3M; 
darendott,  230 ;  Rutland,  236  (connecting  with  the  Centinl  Vennont  RR.X 


FORDHAM. 


MouU  7.      57 


'%«  Celt' 
shing  to 
ge  Point 
n  which 
tel)  is  a 
ng  is  the 
nt  \n  M- 
J.  fortill- 
0  on  the 
id.  Tlie 
>  BoHtop 
E.  above 
nd  8  M. 
Point  is 
evous  for 
the  S.  E. 

and  the 
Schuyler 
i  hills  of 
Neck  are 

Passing 
n  the  r., 


pom  N.  Y. 
any  R.  R 
,  Vennoiit 
and.  The 
Salisbury 
)  to  White 
;  to  Chat- 

elrose.  6 : 
nee  of  the 
ironxville, 
nsico,  26 : 
IWrd,  40 : 
ip&c  B.  R« 
Falls,  49; 
Jg,  66 ;  S. 
Millerton, 
3raryvllle, 
tmera,  128 

Harlem 
liU,  1S9; 
;re  Berlin, 

175;  E. 
r :  Shafts* 
rset,  211 : 
ford.2M; 


The  train  passes  out  from  the  Grand  Central  Depot,  and  runs  N.  E.  for 
4  M.,  passing  many  fine  buildings  pertaining  to  the  educational  and  chari- 
table interests  of  the  city.  On  the  1.  are  seen  the  Central  Paric,  Mt. 
Morris,  and  the  distant  heights  of  Fort  Washington.  A  short  distance 
beyond  the  broad  Harlem  River,  the  N.  Y.  Central  k  Hudson  River  R. 
R.  diverges  to  the  1.,  and  the  train  enters  the  rural  districts  which  were 
recently  annexed  to  N.  Y.  City.  Mott  Haven  is  the  seat  of  extensive 
iron  and  steel  works ;  and  from  Melrose  a  short  railroad  leads  S.  K  to 
Poi-t  Morris,  on  Long  Inland  Sound. 

To  the  W.  is  the  aite  of  the  old  Morris  mansion.  In  1670,  Btchard  Morris,  an 
Ofllcor  of  Cromwell's  army,  bought  8,0()0  acrofi  in  this  vicinity  ;  and  in  1007  this 
Antate  was  formed  into  the  Manor  "f  Morrisania  by  his  son  I^wls  (chlef-Jufttice  uf 
N.  Y.  and  N.  J.,  and  Qov.  of  N.  J.,  ITdS-Mi).  Here  were  born  Lewis  Morris's 
sons,  —  ytaats,  a  Drltiah  general  and  M.  P.  :  Richard,  chlef-.ju8ti(;e  of  N.  Y. : 
Ooitverneur,  one  of  the  most  eminent  statesmen  of  N.  Y. ;  and  Lewln.  a  signer  of 
the  Uoclnratton  of  Independence  (Ills  S  sons  were  brave' offlcera  of  the  Continental 
army  ;  his  grandson  was  killed  in  the  assault  on  Monterey  ;  a  second  ffrandson 
commmdod  the  Mediterranean  fleet  In  1802-8  ;  and  a  great-grandson.  Lewis  O. 
Morris,  colonel  of  the  lllith  N.  Y.,  was  killed  In  the  battle  of  Cold  Harbor,  Va.^ 
Gen.  Moraau,  Louis  Philipfie  of  France,  and  many  other  eminent  men,  received 
the  munificent  honpltullty  of  this  mansion. 

A  picturesque  region,  traversed  liy  flne  roads  and  dott^4  with  villas,  extends  E. 
tothefDound.  Near  the  iironx  River  Is  the  grave  of  Joseph  Rodman  Drake,  a 
gifted  poet  (author  of  "  The  Culprit  Fay  "),  who  died  at  the  age  of  25,  and  to 
whose  memory  Fitz  Greene  Halleck  wrote  the  lines  lieginning :  — 

*♦  Oreen  be  the  turf  above  thee. 
Friend  of  my  better  dayi  i 
Mono  knew  thee  but  to  love  thee, 
None  named  thee  but  to  praiN." 

Tremont  and  Fordham,  the  next  2  stations,  have  each  over  2,000  in- 
habitants. E.  of  Fordham  station  is  St.  John's  College,  a  flourishing 
Jesuit  institution,  with  several  buildings  on  20  acres  of  land,  10  profes- 
sors, 77  undergraduates,  and  150  students  in  other  departments.  The  St. 
Joseph  Theological  Seminary  is  located  here.  St.  Mary's  Church  is  a 
neat  Oothic  structure.  Near  this  village  are  the  mills  and  estates  of  the 
Lorillards ;  on  the  N.  is  the  Jerome  Skating  Pond  ;  and  about  \\  M.  W. 
is  *  Jerome  Park,  a  fine  race-course  under  the  care  of  the  American 
Jockey  Club.  The  train  now  runs  N.  near  the  Bronx  River,  and  1  M. 
beyond  Williams  Bridge  passes  Wood,lawn  Cemetery ^  a  broad  undulating 
tract  of  400  acres,  which  is  patronized  by  N.  Y.  City  families  (the  R.  R. 
runs  special  trains  for  funerals). 

Among  the  many  flne  monuments  here  is  the  grave  of  Admiral  Farragut,  per- 
haps the  foremost  ofilocr  in  the  history  of  the  U.  S.  Navy.  He  was  bom  near 
Knoxvllle,  Tenn.,  in  1801  (of  Balearic  parentage),  and  was  a  midshipman  on  the 
Essex,  in  1814,  when  she  was  captured  by  2  British  frigates  in  Valparaiso  Harbor. 
Thereafter,  for  48  years,  he  commanded  various  vessels  of  the  fleet,  and  on  April 
24,  1S02,  he  led  the  squadron  that  passed  the  Rel)el  forts  at  New  Orleans,  de- 
stroyed the  gunboats,  silenced  the  batteries,  and  took  the  city.  In  the  same  year 
he  attacked  Vicksbiirej,  and  captured  Corpus  Ghristl,  Sabine  Pass,  and  Galveston. 
In  1833  he  blockaded  the  Mississippi  from  Vicksburg  to  New  Orleans,  and  thus 
out  the  Confederacy  in  two ;  and  co-operated  in  the  capture  of  Vicksburgand  Port 
Hudson.    Aug.  6, 1864,  he  commanded  the  uaval  forces  which  passed  through 

8» 


58      Moute  7, 


WHITE  PLAINS. 


V 


the  lire  of  the  Mobile  (brta.  and  AnnihlUted  the  powerful  Roliel  fleet  In  the  her* 
Ixir.  Ho  reculvml  the  thuuKN  of  Ooiiurutie  in  Dun.,  1404;  wiiM  iiiude  Admiral  In 
IdiM) ;  nnti  in  l(iU7  -0  wim  iionoiva  witli  trlnniplial  nufUiitlonH  In  the  oliler  ixirtii  of 
the  H  (UMiUniMitM  of  the  Old  World,  lie  died  iit  I'ortMntotith.  N.  11.,  A\\u.  U,  1870. 
Tht  N.   Y,  awl  Sfw  iltimn  H,  H,  divt^rKUN  from  nUtvu  williumM   iTridKe,  nud 

{MMiM«M  the  UiriviKK  villii^jt^H  of  Mt,  Vernon  (dimni  liirKe  farm-Hchool  nnder  Jintii<*rnn 
Jomnmtmeoii)  And  M«w  lto«h«ll«  (/'khAx'  Ihtel).  Tliu  Intttir  idaco  Imx  nmny 
iHMntinil  villuii,  wnti  n«>ur  li!«)  hiioio  oi  titc  Itiound  Ih  iho  NctUime  lUmte,  It  wua 
settled  liy  Itn^nentitivhigeeH  in  KHU,  niter  the  tidl  of  Im  Rocliolle,  tuid  the  Kiwnoh 
lAnKntiKO  WHM  long  iiHed  hero.  The  MUUe  or  N.  Y.  Kritntoil  ii  irtu;t  of  land  in  this 
town  to  Thonme  Y'Mlno,>  on  whioh  ii  monument  hue  lieon  erei'ind  to  hie  memory. 

HtHtlon,  Mamtmmmk,  "  the  |)lnoo  of  rolUng  etoneH,"  near  which  (Oct.  21,  1770) 
the  holnWHit«  and  Mnrylnnd  troo|w  lient  ni>  the  qiuirtere  uf  the  (^neen'e  liiuiKera 
and  killud  itnd  ouiitnml  80  men,  Rye  etution  Ih  netir  the  Hivorite  Hye  Jkmh  (t'o- 
diirOixtve  U<>nHe)on  L.  I,  Mound,  whence  romnrl<nlile  mirageRiire  NometimoHHccn. 
Fort  €li«ater  (i>e  Si4o  Uoim)  In  a  tlourlNhinu  village,  with  A  churchcH  and  nciirly 
4,U<M)  inhaolUintM.  Juat  lM<yond  thlH  Mt^ition  the  train  croHHoe  the  llyram  Itivcr 
and  ontorH  Now  Kngland,  iwHHtng  on  to  New  liavon,  Hartford,  HiirluKiiidd,  Worcca- 
ttir,  and  lloaton  (or  to  Uoaton  by  way  of  New  Haven,  New  London,  Htoningtnn, 
and  i'ixtviden«^e).    Hee  UMgood'e  Is'tuf  Kngtantl, 

Tho  liarlont  train  next  on^NAes'  and  reornssoH  the  Bronx  Uiver,  ]>a8Hes 

iho  faotorieti  of  JinmxvUle  and  the  i<ruut  marble  quarries  of  Tuckahoe,  and 

oontinnea  on  tho  E.  of  the  Thirty  I>eer  Ridgo  to  Scnradale.    Vico-Frosi- 

dent  Tonipkina.  was  a  native  of  Suarsdalv,  ami  Cooper  was  a  it^sident  here. 

White  Plaint  {Omimupum  Home)  is  a  pleasant  and  thriving  village, 

with  5  churches  and  the  public  buildings  of  WestchcB^er  County.    Its  site 

was  coveivil  with  white  balsam  Mowers,  and  hence  the  name  was  derived. 

To  the  N.  anil  N.  £.  are  St.  Mary's  Lake  and  llye  Pond,  al)ounding  in 

pickerel ;  ami  .->.  W.  of  the  station  is  Chatterton's  Hill,  where  was  fo\ight 

the  Utittlo  of  White  Plains. 

After  the  Anglo- II eMian  nrmy  had  forced  WnHhington  to  retire  from  Manhattan 
Island,  he  fV>rm«tl  furtitiod  lineH  along  Uiu  Bronx  River  from  Fordhnm  to  White 
Plains.  Oct.  28,  177«j  the  l»ostil«  arniy,  nnmhcrlniir  1!».(MH)  men,  advanced  to  at- 
tack the  }M«ition  at  White  Plains.  Under  cover  of  'JO  guns,  tliey  tlirew  a  bridge 
aon)8s  the  Rronx,  end  the  light  infantry  and  Hessian  grenadiers  attacked  Chatter- 
ton's  Hill,  The  American  artillery  ntowed  down  wliob  platoons  of  the  assailnntfl. 
and  tlie  l)elaw«n*s,  Marylnnders,  and  New-Yorkers  held  tho  hill  in  a  hand-to-haud 
ooutliets  At  last  they  were  overwhelmed  by  numl)ei-s,  and  the  militia  were  dis- 
persed by  cavalry  "rue**,  upon  which  the  8on>ly  pressed  Continentals  retired 
wit^  their  wounciou  and  artillej'y  to  the  lines  alwut  White  Plains.  Two  days  of- 
terword,  Washington  fell  Ixtck  to  the  fortihed  heights  of  North  Castle,  and  Howe 
retireil  to  Mmilmttan  Island. 

Station,  Kensico,  between  the  pleasant  highland  towns  of  Mt.  Pleasant 
and  N.  Castle.  Upon  the  heights  of  the  latter  town,  Washington  led  his 
weary  army  in  reti'eat ;  and  on  Mt.  Misery  (in  the  S.  E.)  the  Huguenots 
Aroni  New  Rochelle  cut  off  and  exterminated  a  war  party  of  Indians. 

1  ThomM  P«lne  wm  born  in  Enftlund,  in  17.V,  and  cnmc  to  America  in  1774.  Early  In  1776 
Ii(>  l>ub|iiihed  a  tract  called  "Common  8t>iiar,"  arivo<-aUng  r«>pubUoiin  independence  ;  and  in 
lite.  "  The  Ctitiia  "  waa  imbliahed,  broinninff  with  the  wordo, "  Thesr  arc  the  timei  thnt  try 
nu«n  a  aoula."  Thia  waa  read  at  the  head  or  every  t'cntinciit«d  resiment,  and  arousfd  the 
droo|>ing  apirila  of  the  army  and  people.  Paine  then  mied  Reverat  ofHcea  in  thotl.  H.,  but 
went  to  r>aneo  in  17111,  and  waa  ei«rted  to  the  National  Convention.  After  •  atormy  liJe  in 
Europe,  dnrins  which  he  attacked  Burke  in  "  The  Kighta  of  Man,"  and  advocated  ntheism 
In  «  The  A«eS  Reaaon,"  he  returned  to  New  Rochelle  in  1^,  and  died  there  In  ISW.  10 
year*  later,  Wm.  Cobbett  removed  hia  remaina  to  Fncland. 

9  When  the  train  crosaea  the  Bronx  juet  beyond  Woodlawn,  it  leavei  N.  Y.  Citv,  whoae 
municipality  Inctudea  (since  recent  annexationa)  the  9  former  towna  of  Morriaania.  W. 
Fanna,  and  K'.nna  Brid^,  —  bounded  W.  by  the  Hudson  River,  £.  by  the  Bronx  River, 
uid  N.  by  a  Une  runoinf  due  w.  fiom  the  Brons  above  Woodlawn. 


' 


LAKE  MAHOPAC. 


JtotUe  7,      09 


There  are  mai.y  pretty  lakei  in  North  CoNtle,  and  the  Connecticut  line  is 
quite  near  KunHiuo.  A  piotuntH((uo  rood  IooiIh  B.  W.  to  Tarrytown,  on  the 
IIuilHon.  Tliu  lino  now  luaven  tlie  Dronx  Vulluy  and  ONccndn  li^lit  grades 
to  tlio  lilll-villngus  of  Uiiionvillu  nnd  IMennantviliH  (the  iattor  plocti  in  1  M.  E. 
of  ttio  railroad,  on  tlio  W,  Nlopu  of  Dour  IlidK«))>  I''<>x  lidi  in  pasHe<l  on  the 
1.,  and  tlio  triiiii  HtnpM  at  Clmppitqiin,  a  niral  village  3  M.  S.  B.  of  the  Chap- 
patpia  Sulphur  Bpi  higs.  Near  the  village  in  the  fann  where  Horace  Oreeloy 
wan  wont  to  Moek  ruHt  and  recreation  wlien  worn  down  by  hiw  lalx)re. 

H(»nu!u  Orimloy  wiih  Ixirii  nt  Ariili»rHt,  N,  II.,  in  1811,  nnd  Imimod  tiio  printoKii  art 
at  I'oiiltnuy,  Vt.  butwuvii  IiIh  iritli  ami  lutli  ymnt.  UolhK  W  Now  \»tk  In  IHiil.  ho 
Mtiii'toil  Muvt^ml  nMWi4|)ti|H!n«  (tliu  MonUnn  Pont,  New  Yorknr,  Jejferiumian,  and  Ao//< 
UalUn) ;  nnd  la  lH:il  lio  roundud  tlio  Nnto  York  Tribune,  wliluli  Ijecanitt  urie  of  the 
nioHt  iiowitrfiil  nnd  iiiilrlteil  M  thu  niutnipoliiiin  n<>WN|>u|ton,  It  ntlvricnted  the 
Ahulitlon  of  Mlnvnry,  the  (ilovutlon  of  tliu  lnlMirln}{  (dnitMutt,  and  the  protection  (by 
tnriil')  or  AmurUuui  innntiriufturuii.  Mr.  Urucloy  Konurally  Httpnorted  the  inwiiiures 
of  the  Ucpiililiuuii  purty  front  Itft  orlj^lii  until  18/2,  nithouifh  favoring  n  more  ex* 
ttiiidud  iiiiinoHty  for  thu  Koiitlicrn  Stntott.  In  1872  he  w.-ih  iiontinutoil  im  cnndldnte 
for  thu  l*ruHid(>noy  by  thu  LllMirnl  Convuiitioii  nt  ( 'Imtinnnti,  and  by  tbo  Deinouratio 
Convention  at  Ualtlmoro,  AfUu'  a  loiij^  nnd  bittor  c!uiii|itil|{ii,  Ornnt  wan  re-elu(!to<l ; 
and  noon  nftur,  worn  out  by  toil,  Mr.  (iruuluy  diud  near  New  York.  lie  wuh  eccontrlo 
In  (toMtuino  nnd  innnnorit,  and  loved  the  <pilot  iwidUMioii  of  hiit  fnrm  ut  Chai)]MU{ua. 
liU  i»owerfUl  und  pungent  editorials  inude  iilin  the  furcinuHt  Joumuliet  oi'  his  time. 

Thu  train  now  passes  on  to  Mt.  Kiaco,  a  flourishing  village  just  N.  of 
Kisco  Lake.  From  Bedfonl  station,  a  highway  runs  4  M.  S.  E.  to  Bed- 
ford, an  vnciont  villago  in  a  fertile  vale  under  Aspetong  Hill  (whicii  com- 
mands  iUu  views). 

Bedford  was  founded  by  men  of  Bedfordshire.  England,  and  was  burned  by 
Britiiili  cnvnlry  in  1770.  2  M.  E.  of  Bedford  station  is  ttie  Jay  mansion,  where 
livud  nnd  illed  John  Jny,  grent-grandMon  of  n  fugitive  liuguenot  of  La  Ro';holle, 
and  grandfather  of  the  present  U.  8.  Minister  to  Austria.  He  was  a  prominent 
Revolutionary  leader,  of  "lofty  dlsintereHtediioHS and  unyielding  integrity"  ;  was 
Minister  to  Spain.  1779-81 ;  Secretary  of  State,  1784-9  ;  Chief  Justice  of  the  U. 
8. ;  and  Ouvumor  of  N.  Y.,  1795-1801.    He  died  at  the  homestead  in  1829. 

Station  KaUmah,  a  modem  village  named  after  the  Indian  chief  who 
formerly  rule<l  this  district.  From  OolderCs  Bridge,  a  branch  R.  R.  runs 
7^  M.  N.  E.,  tlirough  Somers,  to  Lake  Mahopao,  a  f.\Vorite  summer  resort. 
"Visitors  are  accommodated  at  tlie  *  Gregory  HouHe;  *'rTiompson'8  Hotel, 
900  guests,  $18-25  a  week;  Lake  House;  and  several  large  boaixling- 
houses,  Wright's,  Carpenter's,  Dean's,  Heroy's,  $  10  - 15  a  week.  The  lake 
is  6-8  M.  in  circumference,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  boulevard,  which 
forms  a  fasliionable  driveway.  Its  shores  are  very  irregular,  and  are 
flanked  by  wooded  Iiills ;  while  several  promontories  make  out  into  the 
water  (notably  Wood  Point,  from  the  S. ).  Petrea  Island  is  nearly  round, 
and  is  in  the  middle  of  the  lake.  Its  abundant  gi'oves  are  a  favorite 
resort  of  boating-parties.  Grand  and  Fairy  Islands  are  also  visited. 
Tlie  water  is  very  clear,  and  affords  good  fishing,  for  which  a  lai^  flotilla 
of  boats  are  kept  at  the  hotels.  The  vicinity  is  thinly  populated  and 
rugged,  and  pleasant  views  of  the  lake  are  gained  from  the  high  hill-tops. 
Kirk  Lake  is  near  by,  in  the  W. ;  and  Wixsom  Hill  and  Pond  are  N. 


60      JtouU  7. 


MILLERTON. 


"The  Bceneiy  around  lookt  hard  and  Connecticnt-Mqne ;  but  the  lake  ti  a  most 
lovely  sheet  of  water,  with  S  wooded  islands  in  its  bosom,  and  the  outline  of  the 
horizon  is  free  and  Ih>M."  (N.  P.  Willis.)  A  road  runs  N.  Ei  4^  M.,  acroMs  the 
Croton  Valley  to  C»rinel«  the  rnpltnl  of  Putnam  County,  the  seut  of  the  Drew 
Heminnry  and  Fciunlc  College  nnd  tlie  Riiymond  Collegiate  Institute,  and  the 
birthplace  of  Daniel  Drew.  Maliopnc  is  one  of  the  chief  of  the  highland  lakes 
which  supply  N.  Y.  City  with  wrttei  by  the  Croton  Aqueduct,  of  which  there  are 
22  within  12  M.  radius.  3  M.  '^oni  Maliopac  is  Lake  Oilead ;  10  M.  S.  W.,  and 
near  PeekskiU,  is  I^ke  Mohegan  ;  6  M.  8.  W.  is  I^ake  Osceola ;  Osoawana  Lake 
Is  about  8  M.  W.,  among  the  rugged  Highlands;  Waccahuo  Lake  is  4  M.  £.  of 
Golden 's  Bridge ;  and  Peach  Lake  is  4-5  M.  E.  of  Croton  Falls.  All  of  these 
lakes  are  provided  with  summer  hotels  and  boarding-houses. 

Beyond  Golden's  Bridge  the  main  line  passes  Purdy's  Station  and  Cro- 
ton Falls,  and  stops  at  Brewster's  Station,  a  prosperous  village  in  a  lake- 
strown  country.  Near  this  place  are  the  works  of  the  Borden  Condensed 
Milk  Company,  and  in  the  vicinity  are  profitable  iron-mines.  Stations, 
Dykeman's,  Towner*8,  Patterson,  and  Paioling  (trains  stop  for  refresh- 
ments), an  important  point  for  shipping  milk.  \  M.  E.  is  Mt.  Tom  ;  and 
8  M.  N.  is  Quaker  Hill,  cron^'ned  by  an  old  Quaker  meeting-house,  which 
was  used  as  a  hospital  in  the  Revolution.  Beyond  S.  Dover  the  train 
reaches  Dover  Plains  {Dover  Plains  Hotel),  in  a  deep  limestone  valley, 
vrhich  has  many  singular  geological  formations  and  picturesque  ravines. 
At  Wassaic  the  scenery  is  fine,  and  is  said  to  resemble  that  of  Harper's 
Ferry.  The  Taghkonic  Mts.  on  the  E.,  and  the  Fishkill  Mts.  on  the  W., 
close  in  over  the  Wassaic  glen.  The  train  now  reaches  Amenia  ( Tuttle 
House),  a  pretty  village  in  which  is  seen  the  Amenia  Seminary  (on  the  1.). 
Amenia  has  4  churches,  and  is  the  centre  of  an  iron-mining  district. 
Sharon  Station  is  3  M.  from  the  village  of  Sharon,  Conn.  At  Killerton 
the  present  route  is  intersected  by  the  Dutchess  and  Columbia,  Pough- 
keepsie  and  Eastern,  and  Conn.  Western  B.  Rs.,  the  latter  of  which  runs 
E.  7  M.  to  the  beautiful  scenery  of  Salisbury  (see  Osgood's  New  £ngland, 
Route  20).  69  M.  S.  E.  by  this  line  is  Hartford,  the  capital  of  Conn. 
The  Harlem  train  now  ascends  among  fine  scenery,  passing  Mt.  Riga  and 
other  Conn,  peaks  dose  at  hand  on  the  r.  Boston  Comer  belonged  to 
Massachusetts,  but  was  separated  from  that  State  by  lofty  mts.,  and  was 
the  scene  of  many  prize-fights  and  other  evils,  to  remedy  which  it  was 
ceded  to  N.  Y.  in  1853.  Mt.  Everett  and  others  of  the  Berkshire  Itills 
(Osgood's  New  England^  Route  23)  are  now  seen  on  the  r.  Copake  is 
near  large  iron-mines,  and  has  a  blast  furnace.  About  5  M.  N.  W.  is 
Copake  Lake;  and  2  M.  E.  is  "that  grand  ravine  and  its  wild  water, 
*  Bash  Bish,"  with  lofty  cascades.  The  train  runs  N.  and  almost  touches 
the  Mass.  boundary,  then  turns  W.  to  Hillsdale,  whence  stages  run  N.  E. 
across  %remont  to  Great  Barrington,  Mass.  Stations,  Craryville,  Mar- 
tindale,  and  Philmont  ( Vanderbilt  House),  a  modem  village,  with  paper, 
woollen,  and  carpet  factories.  Claverack  is  5  M.,  and  Hudson  is  .9  M., 
from  this  point.    Beyond  Philmout  the  line  passes  through  fine  scenery. 


, 


LEBANON  SPRINOa. 


JtouU  7.      61 


and 


overlooking  the  Hoilion  River  Valley  and  the  CatRkill  Mts.  At  the  ham- 
let of  Ohent  the  Hudson  and  Boston  R.  R.  is  seen  on  the  1.,  and  continues 
near  the  present  route  to  the  Junction  of  both  lines  with  the  Boston  and 
Albany  R.  R.  (Oflgn^'l's  /iew  England,  Routes  21  and  22)  at  Chatham 
Four  Comers  The  distance  t>  Boston  is  177  M. ;  and  to  Albany  it  is  24 
M.    The  H  and  B.  R.  R.  runs  B.  W.  to  Hudson  in  17  M. 

The  Harlem  Extension  R.  R.  runs  N.  to  Rutland,  Yt.,  in  114  M. 
Passing  several  obscure  rural  hamlets,  the  train  soon  reaches  Lebanon 
Spring!  (*  Colunibia  HaU,  a  fashionable  and  elegant  summer  hotel ;  and 
several  smaller  houses,  comfortable  and  less  expensive).  The  thermal 
springs  at  New  Lebanon  have  won  an  excellent  reputation  for  their  effi- 
cacy in  diseases  pf  the  skin  and  liver.  There  are  about  24  grains  of  solid 
matter  and  6  cubic  inches  of  gases  to  each  gallon  of  the  water.  The  tem- 
perature is  73*,  and  the  spring  discharges  500  gallons  a  minute.  Th« 
water  is  used  mostly  for  bathing,  and  this  is  the  only  thermal  spring  in 
N.  Y.  or  New  England.  The  village  is  1,000  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  is 
surrounded  with  picturesque  scenery,  and  from  Gilbert  Hill  the  Hudson 
River  and  Catskill  Mts.  may  be  seen.  There  are  many  fine  drives  in  this 
vicinity,  the  best  of  which  is  that  to  Pittsfield  (12-15  M.  E.)  by  a  far- 
viewing  road  which  passes  near  Perry's  Peak.  Shorter  drives  are  those  to 
Queechy  Lake  and  to  the  Shaker  village. 

The  Shaker  Village  is  2  M.  8.  of  the  Springs,  and  contains  5-600  persons,  who  own 
large  tracts  of  land,  and  are  engaged  in  fanning  and  in  making  broonis,  sieves,  and 
baskets.  200,000  lbs.  of  herbs,  seeds,  and  botaiiic  medicines  are  put  up  annually. 
The  village  and  farms  are  of  spotless  neatness.  The  Shakers  originated  fh>m  a 
French  sect  which  went  to  England  in  1700,  and  was  there  Joined  by  Ann  Lee,  the 
wife  of  a  Manchester  blacksmith.  In  1770,  after  emerging  from  a  madhouse  where 
she  was  confined  for  reviling  matrimony,  she  announced,  "  I  am  Ann,  the  Word," 
and  soon  afterward  came  to  America  and  was  made  the  "  Spiritual  Heiid"  of  the 
sect  In  1780  she  converted  many  people  of  New  Lebanon,  and  established  here 
"  the  capital  of  the  Shaker  world,  the  rural  Vatican  wliich  claims  a  more  despotio 
sway  over  the  mind  of  man  than  ever  the  Roman  Pontiff  assumed."  The  Spiritual 
Head  claimed  the  power  of  working  miracles,  and  held  that  Christ's  coming  was 
not  the  fulfilment  of  "  the  deuire  of  all  nations,  but  that  the  second  Divine  advent 
must  naturally  be  manifested  in  that  particular  object,  to  wit,  woman,  which  is 
eminently  the  desire  of  all  nations."  The  commonwealth  covenant  was  accepted 
in  1795,  and  on  Mother  Ann's  death  the  government  was  assumed  by  a  hierarchy 
of  2  elders  and  2  eldresses,  called  the  Holy  Lead.  They  remained  secluded  in  the 
church  at  New  Lebanon,  appointed  the  minor  clerjy>  and  supervise<l  their  Scrip- 
tures, consisting  of  the  "  Holy  Laws  "  and  "  Order  Book,"  which  were  dictated 
by  the  Recording  Angel.  Unlike  other  sects,  the  Shakers  claim  that  men  may 
Join  t)ieir  sect  after  death,  and  among  other  illustrious  posthumous  members, 
they  count  Washington,  Lafayette,  Napoleon,  Tamerlane,  and  Pocahontas.  "  By 
frugality  and  industry  they  give  us  many  useftil  things,  but  they  do  not  produce 
what  the  Republic  most  needs,  -r  men  and  women."  To  the  E.  near  the  Shaker 
village  at  Richmond  Pond  (Mass.),  the  Shakers  formerly  held  weird  night  meet- 
ings on  one  of  the  Berkshire  Hills.  Their  tradition  states  that  here  on  Mt.  Sinai 
they  hunted  Satan  throughout  a  long  summer  night,  and  finally  killed  and  buried 
him.  Over  his  grave,  to  this  day,  Washington  and  Lafayette  keep  guanl,  mounted 
on  wliite  horses,  and  are  seen  on  summer  nights  by  those  of  the  faithful  who 
chance  to  pass  their  ancient  shrine. 


62      Route  8. 


THE  HUDSON  RIVEH. 


Beyond  New  LeVanon  the  train  passes  the  rnral  homlets  of  the  towns 
of  Stephontown,  Berlin,  and  PeterHburgh,  with  the  nigged  Toghkaniuk 
Mts.  on  the  r.  At  Peteraburf/h  Junction  it  croMes  the  Troy  und  Boston 
R.  R.,  and  soon  afterward  enters  the  State  of  Vermont,  near  Bennington 
(Bennington  to  Rutland,  see  Osgood's  New  England,  Route  27). 


8.  The  Hvdion  Biver.   New  Tork  to  Troy. 


i 


Besides  the  8  lines  of  through  steamers,  there  are  many  small  and  eomfbrfoble 
Doais  which  ply  between  New  York  and  tlie  liver-ports  (we  iiage  11 ;  also  the 
lists  and  time-tables  suspended  in  the  hotel-ufflces).  A  pleasant  excumion  may 
be  made  1>y  taking  the  day-boat  as  tur  as  Hudson  (114  M.),  and  returning  to  New 
York  by  the  express-train.  The  great  steamboats  of  the  through  lines  are  the 
most  elegant  river-boats  in  tlie  world,  and  nra  fUruiHiied  witli  every  appliance  for 
the  comfort  of  the  traveller.  Fare,  ii  2  (exclusive  of  meaU,  which  are  well  servctl  at 
fixed  prices) ;  or,  fur  the  trip  to  West  Point,  Cornwall,  or  Newburgh  and  back, 
returning  the  same  day,  91.  Through  tickets  to  Saratoga  by  this  raute,  98.50. 
The  day-boats  (the  C.  Vibbard  oud  Daniel  Dretv)  leave  the  foot  of  Vestry  Ut.,  New 
York,  at  8.30  a.  m.,  and  23d  St.  15  minutes  later.  They  stop  at  Yonkors  at  0.80,  and 
connect  In  the  Tappan  Zee  with  the  ferry-boat  to  /Nyack  and  Tarrytown.  West ' 
Point  Is  reached  at  11.80  ;  Cornwall  at  11.65 ;  Newburgh  at  12.15  p.  M. ;  Milton  at 
12.55  :  Poughkeepsie  at  1.10  ;  Rhinebeck  at  2  ;  Tlvolf  at  2.85 ;  Catsklll  at  8.20  ; 
Hudson  at  8.40  ;  and  Albany  at  6  p.  u. 

The  Hudson  River  Division  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  may  be  preferred  to  the 
boats  in  winter  or  In  stormy  weather.  Trains  leave  the  Grand  Central  Dei)ot, 
and  pass  through  the  lines  of  public  and  charitable  buildings  In  the  up{)er  city, 
with  the  Central  Park  on  the  1.  Beyond  the  Hurleni  River  they  diverge  tVom  the 
Harlem  R.  R.,  and  follow  the  river  and  Bpuyten  Duyvll  Creek  to  tlie  Hudson, 
whose  E.  bank  is  travei-sed  genentlly  all  the  way  to  Albany.  10  - 12  trains  daily 
leave  the  old  station  at  the  comer  of  80th  St.  and  lOtli  Ave.  (i-eached  by  the  Ele- 
vated .Rallwy  fi-om  lower  New  York)  and  run  to  Tarrytown,  passing  the  stations 
of  Manhattan,  152(1  St.,  Fort  Washington,  Inwood,  etc.  The  Montreal,  Chicago, 
and  Pacific  express  trains  (fTom  the  Grand  Central  Depot)  run  at  the  rate  of 
80  -  86  M.  an  hour,  and  make  but  few  stops.  They  are  chiefly  composed  of  draw- 
ing-room  cars  ;  and  passengers  who  secure  seats  on  the  1.  side  will  have  pleasant 
views  of  the  river  and  Its  W.  bank.  Steam-feiiies  connect  the  line  with  the  chief 
towns  on  the  W.  bank. 

Times  and  Fares.  New  York  to  Tarrytown.  1  -  IJ  hrs.,  62c. ;  to  Poughkeepsie, 
2^-3^  hrs.,  $1.83;  to  Hudson.  8^-6  hrs.,  $2.28;  to  Albany,  4^-7^ hrs.,  )||I8.10. 
Stations.  Grand  Central  Depot ;  Spuyten  Duyvll,  11  M. ;  Rlverdale,  12  ;  Mt.  St 
Vincent,  18  ;  Yonkers,  14 J  ;  Hastings,  19 ;  Doblis'  Ferry,  20  ;  Irvington,  22  ; 
Tarrytown  (and  Nyack),  25;  Scarborough,  29  ;  Sing  Sing,  80  ;  Croton,  84  :  Cruger'a, 
87  ;  Montrose,  88 ;  Peekskill,  41 ;  Fort  Montgomery,  45 ;  Garrison's  (West  Point), 
49 ;  Cold  Spring,  52  ;  Cornwall  Station,  54  ;  Dutchess  Junction,  57  :  Fishkill 
(Newburgh),  58  ;  Low  Point,  02  :  New  Hamburgh,  €4 ;  Milton  Ferry,  69  ;  Pough* 
Iceepsie,  73 ;  Hyde  Park,  78  ;  Staatsburgh,  83  ;  Rliinebeck,  88 ;  Barry  town,  94; 
Tivoli,  98 ;  Germantown,  104 ;  Livingston,  107 :  Catsklll  Station,  109 :  Hmlson, 
114  :  Stockport,  118 ;  Coxsackio,  121 ;  Stuyvesant,  123 ;  Bchodack,  129 ;  Castletou. 
183 :  E.  Albany,  141^ ;  Albany,  142 ;  Troy,  148. 

The  Hudson  River  takes  Its  rise  In  a  lofty  mountain-lake,  300  M.  N.  of  N.  Y 
City,  and,  descending  thence  through  the  defiles  uf  the  Adirondacks,  receives  tho 
waters  of  Schroon  Lake,  and  breaks  througli  the  Luzerne  Mts.  in  a  series  of  long 
rapids.  It  passes  through  a  tumultuous  course  until  Ttx>y  is  reached,  where  the 
beean-ildes  are  met.  Below  this  point  the  stream  is  deep  and  quiet,  and  is  the 
avenue  of  an  immense  commerce,  chiefly  in  lumber,  coal,  stone,  ice,  manufafttni'ed 

goods,  and  Western  grain  (In  great  clustei*s  of  freighted  caual-boats,  drawn  by 
jwins-steamei's).  The  passage  of  the  river  through  the  Appalachian  mountain- 
system  ut  the  Higlilnnds  and  the  long  and  lofty  trap-dike  called  the  Palisades  ara 
remarkable  for  their  scenic  effect.    Many  ti'avellera  prefer  *he  Hudson  to  the 


1 


«l 


f 


i     63 

glimptM 
irts ;  but 
the  sen." 
loetM  and 
of  Wniiii 
[tat  ion  of 
•turesquo 
I  Indiana 
0  Dutch 
nco  Mau- 
ih  finally 

affbrded 
!7ity  and 
B  on  the 
le  HUl, 
lien,  the 

m,  adii- 
*reMunr. 

Knee  to 
iclined 
died  80 
to  yean, 

[  below 

^sylum, 
pee  (see 
ly  situ- 
reached 
,ei  are 
a  con- 
The 
sepa- 
Df  the 
isolate 
)uyten 


n  with 
Itooica 
I  swim 
|to  tlie 
fien  he 

raters, 
blast, 


f 


1  Henry  Hndion  win  a  boTfllWWlW  of  Juiifrland  who  lonjr  labored,  hy  Nova  Zembia  and 
the  Siberian  waters,  to  ilnd  a  N.  £.  nsMage  tn  India.  In  ItiOO'he  sailed  w.  in  the  Dutch  East 
India  Companv  ■  vetsel,  the  Half-Moon,  coasted  alonfr  Cape  Cod  and  the  Chesnneake,  and 
ascended  the  Hudson  River  to  the  site  of  Trtty.  In  1010  he  sailed  in  the  hnr1<  Disroverp  to 
Oreenlnnd,  Labrndor  and  Hudsnn's  Bay.  where  he  was  seized  hy  his  inntinnns  crew,  and 
was  set  adrift  In  a  small  shallop,  together  with  his  son  and  7  sailors.  Ue  was  never  heard  of 
afterward. 


.. 


d 


t 

li 
t 
■J 

11 
t 
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r 
1 

c 
D 
1 


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k 


..>  .><^^u  ^..  . .  ^  (3  ucc^^  niiu  ijutcb,  uiiu  la  Hit) 

avenue  of  an  immense  commerce,  chiefly  in  lumber,  coal,  stone,  ice,  nmuufactui'ecl 
goods,  and  Western  grain  (in  great  clusters  of  freighted  canal-boats,  drawn  by 
towin^^-steamers).  The  passage  of  the  river  through  the  Appalachian  mountain- 
system  at  the  Higlilands  and  tlie  long  and  lofty  trap-dike  called  the  Palisades  are 
remarkable  for  their  scenic  elfect.    Many  travellers  prefer  the  Hudson  to  tho 


THE  PALISADES. 


Haute  8.      63 


t 


4 


IJIO 

.u-etl 
I  by 

are 

tiid 


Rhtne ;  and  Geoige  William  Curtis  says  of  it.  "The  Dannbe  has  in  part  glimpses 
of  such  grandeur,  the  Elbe  has  sometimes  such  delicately  I)«ncille'i  efTects  ;  but 
no  European  river  is  so  lordly  in  its  bearing,  none  flows  in  such  state  to  the  sea." 
The  beauties  of  the  Hudson  have  been  a  favorite  theme  of  American  poets  and 
artists  :  and  its  ancient  folk-lore  has  been  illuminated  by  the  genial  wit  of  Willis 
and  the  beautiflil  language  of  Irving.  The  history  of  the  Euroi)ean  occupation  of 
this  valley  covers  285  years,  and  until  within  a  century  H'  abounds  in  picturesque 
incidents.  The  river  was  called  tlie  Sliatemuc  and  tlie  Mohegan  by  the  Indians 
until  its  exploration  by  Hudson,!  in  September,  iU09,  after  which  the  Dutch 
named  it  the  North  River,  and  also  the  Mauritius  (in  compliment  to  Prince  Mau- 
rice). The  French  called  it  Im  Riviere  dcs  Montagnes;  and  the  English  iinally 
applied  the  present  name,  in  honor  of  the  discoverer. 

As  the  great  steamer  passes  out  into  the  stream,  a  fine  view  is  afforded 

of  the  harbor  in  the  distance,  —  the  populous  shores  of  Jersey  City  and 

Hoboken  on  the  W.,  and  the  dense  lines  of  piers  and  warehouses  on  the 

N.  Y.  shore.    Above  Hoboken  are  the  Elysian  Fields  and  Castle  Hill, 

crowned  by  the  Stevens  mansion;  and  still  beyond  is  Weehawken,  the 

scene  of  a  fatal  duel  in  1805. 

Aaron  Burr,  Vice-President  of  the  U.  S.,  challenged  Alexander  Hamilton,  a  dis< 
tinguished  statesman  and  jurist,  and  for  6  years  Secretary  of  the  U.  S.  Treasuiy. 
There  was  no  pretext  but  political  antagonism ;  and  Hamilton,  in  deference  to 
the  public  sentiment  of  the  time,  appeared  on  tlie  duelling-ground,  but  declined 
to  fire.  BuiT  toolc  deliberate  aim,  and  fatally  wounded  Hamilton,  who  died  30 
hours  after,  amid  the  mourning  of  the  nation.  "  Burr  lived  more  than  30  years, 
a  fugitive,  like  Cain,  and  suffering  the  bitter  scorn  of  his  countrymen." 

The  great  Manhattan  Market  is  seen  on  the  r.  (foot  of  34th  St.),  below 
Weehawken;  and  farther  up  (1.)  is  Bull's  Ferry.  At  Manhattanvillflps 
seen  the  Lunatic  Asylum;  and  above  this  is  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum, 
on  the  heights  6f  Fort  Washington.  Opposite  the  latter  is  Fort  Lee  (see 
page  28  );  and  opposite  Inwood  (N.  Y.)  is  the  imposing  and  loftily  situ- 
ated sunmier  hotel,  the  ♦  Palisades  Mountain  House  (300  guests ;  reached 
from  Englewood,  on  the  Northern  R.  R.  of  N.  J.).  The  *  Palisades  are 
250-600  ft.  high,  and  extend  from  Hoboken  to  Piermont,  with  a  con- 
tinuation along  the  Tappan  Zee  to  Haverstraw  and  Point-no-Point.  Tlie 
ridge  is  a  basaltic  trap-dike,  and  is  but  g  M.  wide  in  some  places,  sepa- 
rating the  Hudson  from  the  Hackensack  Valley.  Tlie  summit  of  the 
precipice  is  thickly  wooded;  and  it  looks  almost  as  lonely  and  desolate 
as  the  cliffs  of  the  Saguenay.  Above  Inwood  the  mouth  of  Spuyten 
Dui/vil  Creek  is  seen  on  the  r. 

This  stream  is  named  after  a  legendary  Dutch  trumpeter,  hurrying  down  with 
a  summons  to  arms  when  New  York  was  menaced  by  900  Indians.  *'  He  took  a 
hearty  embrace  of  his  stone  bottle,  swore  most  valnrously  that  he  would  swim 
across  in  spite  of  tlie  Devil  (en  spyt  den  duyvel),  and  daringly  plunged  into  the 
sti-eam.  lAickles  4  Anthony  !  Scarcely  had  he  buffeted  half-way  over,  when  he 
was  observed  to  struggle  violently,  as  if  battling  with  the  spirit  of  the  waters. 
Instinctively  he  put  his  trumpet  to  his  mouth,  and,  giving  a  vehement  blast, 

1  Henry  Hudson  \rnn  n  bold  mariner  of  Enprlnnd  who  lon^  labored,  by  Nova  Zembla  and 
the  Siberian  waters,  to  find  a  N.  E.  passage  to  India.  In  KJOU  he  sailed  W.  in  the  Dutch  East 
India  Company  s  vessel,  the  naif-Moon,  coasted  along  Cape  Cod  and  the  ChesnneaVe,  and 
ascended  the  Hudson  River  to  the  site  of  Troy.  In  1(510  he  sailed  In  the  hark  Dismvcrtf  to 
Grcenliind,  Labriidor  and  Hndson  s  Bay.  where  he  was  seized  hy  his  mutinous  crew,  and 
was  set  adrift  iu  a  anaaU  shallop,  together  witli  his  sou  and  7  Bailora.  Ue  was  never  heard  at 
afterward. 


64      Moute  8. 


YONKEBB. 


sank  forever  to  the  bottom  I  .  .  .  .  Here  an  old  Dutch  bnigher,  femed  for  his 
veracity,  and  who  had  been  a  witness  to  tlie  affair,  related  the  melancholy  atihir. 
with  the  fearful  addition  (to  whi(-h  I  am  slow  in  giving  bolieO  that  he  saw  the 
Duyvel,  in  the  shape  of  a  huge  nioHa-bonkcr  (a  species  of  inferior  fish),  seize  the 
sturdy  Anthony  by  the  leg,  and  drag  him  beiicatli  tlie  waves."  (Irving.)  At  this 
place  tlie  Indians  attacked  Hudson's  vessel  (in  1600),  but  wei-e  repulsed  after  a 
severe  conflict.  The  promontories  of  Spuyten  Duyvil  were  strongly  fortified  by 
the  ]3i'itish  during  the  Revolution,  and  it  formed  the  8.  border  of  the  "  Neuti-nl 
Ground,"  —  a  belt  of  about  30  M.  wide,  that  was  incessantly  swept  by  the  raids 
of  the  moss-troopers  called  Cow  Boys  and  Skinners. 

2J  M.  above  Spuyten  Duyvil  is  Hiverdale,  near  which  are  seen  the 
stately  buildings  of  Mt.  St.  Vincent,  the  Mother  House  of  the  Sisters 
of  CHiarity,  a  Catholic  order  which  has  67  establishments  in  and  near 
New  York.  The  castle  of  Font  Hill  is  of  blue  granite  and  has  6  battle- 
mented  towers.  It  was  built  by  Edwin  Forrest ;  but  after  his  domestic 
troubles  he  sold  it  to  the  Sisters,  whose  clergy  now  occupy  Font  Hill. 
Tlie  spacious  buildings  in  the  rear  were  erected  by  the  Sisterhood,  and 
are  occupied  by  the  nuns  and  their  young  lady  pupils.  1^  M.  from  Mt. 
St.  Vmcent  is  Yonkers  (•  Peabody  House),  a  pleasant  town  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Neperan  River,  with  12,733  inhabitants  (in  1870),  1  daily  and  3 
weekly  papers,  and  9  churches.  There  are  many  fine  villas  in  the  vicin« 
ity,  and  x>leasant  drives.  The  population  is  largely  composed  of  N.  Y.^ 
City  merchants  and  their  families. 

Jfonkera  occupies  the  site  of  the  Indian  village  of  Nappechamak,  off  which 
dson  made  his  second  anchorage,  and  bought  oysters  and  beans  from  the 
natives  ("a  loving  people,  who  attained  great  age"),  who  ccme  out  in  28  canoes. 
It  lay  in  the  domain  of  Coleudonck,  24,000  acres  in  extent,  which  was  ruled  by 
the  Patroou  Van  der  Donck  (1643-55).  Much  of  this  estate  was  afterwards  ac* 
quired  by  the  Philipse  family,  who  erected  a  spacious  stone  Manor  Hall  near 
Yonkers,  in  1682.  Mary  Philipse,  the  beautiful  heii-ess  of  this  estate  (and  the 
heroine  of  Cooper's  novel,  "The  Spy")  was  the  first  love  of  George  Washington 
(1756),  and  although  he  could  not  win  her,  he  always  remembered  her  fondly. 
She  was  attahited  for  treason  after  the  Revolution,  and  her  vast  domains  were 
sequestrated.  The  Manor  House  still  stands  at  Yonkers  (named  from  Ymik 
Heer,  "  a  young  lord  "),  and  preserves  its  baronial  halls,  quaint  carvings,  wain- 
scoting, and  Dutch  tiles.  In  1777  a  naval  battle  was  fought  off  Yonkers  between 
the  British  frigates  Rose  and  Phoenix  and  a  flotilla  of  American  gimboats ;  and  in 
1778  Gist's  Marylanders  were  driven  from  the  place  by  the  royalists  under  Tarleton 
and  Simcoe. 

The  Palisades  opposite  Yonkers  are  400  ft.  high,  and  their  most  pictu- 
resque poio^  is  at  Indian  Head,  4  M.  above,  opposite  Hastings-upon- 
Hudson.  Much  Westchester  marble  is  shipped  from  Hastings.  At  this 
point  Lord  Cornwallis's  British  army  crossed  the  Hudson,  just  before 
Washington's  retreat  through  the  Jerseys.  On  the  heights  above  the 
village  were  2  forts,  whose  cannonading  greatly  annoyed  the  British  ship- 
ping on  the  river.  Near  Hastings  is  the  stately  old  Livingston  mansion, 
which  was  the  head-quarters  of  Washington  and  the  scene  of  the  official 
conferences  about  the  British  evacuation  of  New  York  (1783).  1  M. 
above  Hastings  is  Ddbbs*  Ferry  (the  scene  ot  the  legend  of  Heudrick  and 
Katrina),  an  ancient  village  at  the  mouth  of  Wisquaqua  Creek  and  below 


:  ' 


THE  TAPPAN  ZEE. 


Route  8.      65 


the  Greenburgh  Hills.  It  is  a  summer  home  for  many  citizens,  and  the 
view  up  the  Tappan  Zee  is  very  attractive  (especially  from  near  the  quaint 
Zion  Church).  The  place  is  named  for  one  Dobbs,  a  Delaware  Swede  of 
tlie  17th  century,  who  owned  this  district  and  kept  a  ferry  here ;  and 
some  years  since  a  sharp  controversy  was  raised  by  a  well-sustained  but 
unsuccessful  attempt  to  change  the  name  to  Pauldin^^.  Opposite  tliis 
place  is  Piermont,  where  a  pier  1  M.  long  (just  N.  of  the  line  between 
New  York  and  New  Jersey)  projects  from  the  W.  shore  to  the  deep-water 
channel.  A  branch  of  the  Erie  Railway  runs  thence  to  Suffem,  18  M.  N. 
W. ;  and  the  Northern  R.  R.  of  N.  J.  passes  the  village  on  the  route  from 
N.  Y.  to  Nyack.  2  M.  from  Piermont  is  the  ancient  village  of  Tappan, 
in  the  rich  Hackensack  Valley.  Near  this  place,  in  1778,  Baylor's  regi- 
ment of  American  cavalry  was  surprised  at  night  by  the  British  Gen. 
Gray,  and  two  thirds  of  its  men  were  massacred.  The  house  (built  in 
1700)  which  was  the  head-quarters  of  the  army  in  1780  is  still  shown  ;  and 
at  this  place  Major  Andre  was  executed,  Oct.  2,  1780.  At  Dobbs'  Ferry 
begins  a  beautiful  lake-like  widening  of  the  river,  10  M.  long  and  2-5 
M.  wide,  which  has  been  renowned  for  two  centuries  under  the  name  of 
the  *  Tappan  Zee. 

"  Even  the  Tappan  Sea  in  front  was  said  to  be  haunted.  Often,  in  the  still  twi- 
light of  a  summer  evening,  wlien  the  sea  would  be  as  glass,  and  the  opposite  \Mk% 
would  throw  their  shadow  halt  across  it,  a  low  sound  would  be  heard,  as  of  the 

steady,  vigorous  pull  of  oars,  though  not  a  boat  was  to  be  descried Some  said 

that  it  was  one  of  the  whale-boats  of  the  old  water-guard,  sunk  by  the  British 
sliips  during  the  war,  but  now  permitted  to  haunt  its  old  cruising-grounds  ;  but 
the  prevalent  opinion  connected  it  with  the  awful  fate  of  Rambout  Van  Dam,  of 
graceless  memory.  He  was  a  roistering  Dutchman  of  Spiting  Devil,  who,  in 
times  long  p^al,  nad  navigated  his  boat  alone  one  Saturday  the  whole  length  of 
the  Tappan  Sea,  to  attend  a  quilting  party  at  Kakiat,  on  the  W.  shore.  Here  he 
had  danced  and  drunk  until  midnight,  when  he  entered  his  boat  to  return  home. 
He  was  warned  that  he  was  on  the  verge  of  Sunday  morning ;' but  he  pulled  off 
nevertheless,  swearing  he  would  not  land  until  he  reached  Spiting  l>evil,  if  it 
took  him  a  month  of  Sundays.  He  was  never  seen  afterwards,  but  lu;)/  be  heard 
plying  his  oars,  as  above  mentioned,  being  the  Flying  Dutchman  of  the  Tappan 
Bea,  doomed  to  ply  between  Kakiat  and  Spiting  Devil  until  the  day  of  judgment." 

There  is  a  legend  of  a  stout,  round,  Dutch-built  vessel,  with  high  bow  and 
stem,  and  bearing  Dutch  colors,  sailing  up  tlie  harbor  of  New  Amsterdam  in  the 
teeth  of  wind  and  tide,  and  penetrated  like  a  cloud  by  the  cannon-shot  fi-om  the 
Battery.  She  never  returned  down  the  Hudson,  but  was  often  seen  by  the  Dutch 
skippers.  "Sometimes  near  the  Pallisadoes,  sometimes  off  Croton  Point,  and 
sometimes  in  the  Highlands ;  but  she  was  never  reported  as  having  been  seen 
above  the  Higlilands.  Sometimes  it  was  by  the  flashes  of  a  thunder-storm, 
lighting  up  a  pitchy  night,  and  giving  glimpses  of  her  careering  across  Tap- 
pan  Zee,  or  the  wide  waste  of  Haverstraw  Bay Sf)raetiines,  in  quiet 

moonlight  nights,  she  would  be  seen  under  some  high  bluff  of  the  Highlands,  all 

in  deep  shadow,  excepting  her  topsails  glittering  in  the  moonbeams Her 

apiiearance  was  always  just  after,  or  just  before,  or  just  in  tlie  midst,  of  unruly 
weather ;  and  she  was  known  to  all  the  skippers  and  voyages  of  the  Hudson  by 
the  name  of  the  Storm  Ship."  Some  maintained  that  this  phantom  was  the 
Flying  Dutchman,  passed  from  the  stormy  Cape  of  Good  Hope  to  moi-e  tranquil 
waters.  Others  held  that  it  was  Hendrick  Hudson  and  the  shadowy  crew  of  the 
Half-Moon,  sailing  to  their  weird  revels  in  the  Catskills.  "  It  is  said  that  she 
etill  hauuts  the  Highlands,  and  cruises  about  Foint-no-Foint.    People  who  live 


J:    I 


66      MouU  8. 


SUNNYSIDEL 


along  the  river  insist  that  they  sometimes  see  her  in  summer  moonlteht.  and 
that  in  a  deep,  still  midnight  they  have  heard  the  chant  of  her  crew,  as  if  heaving 
the  lead."    (Irvino.) 

Passing  now  the  classic  portico  of  Nevia,  tlie  home  of  the  Hamiltons 
(from  Nevis,  a  West  India  Island,  where  Alexander  Hamilton  was  bom), 
and  the  Renaissance  mansion  of  Caen  stone,  Nuits,  owned  by  the  Cotti- 
nets,  the  modern  village  of  Irvington  is  seen  on  the  r.  Just  N.  of  this 
place  is  *  Sannyflide,  the  quaintly  beautiful  stono  mansion  where  Irving 
dwelt  and  wrote. 

This  house  was  built  in  the  17th  century  by  Wolfert  Acl;er,  a  world-wearj'  and 
cynical  Dutch  councillor.  He  inscribed  over  its  dour,  "  Luut  in  Bust "  (pleasui*o 
in  quiet),  whence  the  English  settlers  called  it  "WoL'ert's  Roost."  Jacob  Vau 
Tassel,  the  proprietor  duruig  the  Revolution,  was  an  active  American  partisan  ; 
and  the  Roost  was  sacked  and  bunied  by  the  British.  Mr.  Irving  made  many 
additions  and  enrichments  to  it.  and  named  it  "  bwinyside."  "  It  iJ  said,  in  fact, 
to  have  been  modelled  after  the  cocked  liat  of  Peter  the  Headstrong,  as  tlio 
Escurial  was  modelled  after  the  gridiron  of  the  blessed  St.  Lawrence."  The  E. 
front  is  covered  with  ivy,  from  a  slip  which  Sir  Walter  Scott  gave  to  Irving 
at  Abbotsl'ord  ;  and  the  place  is  charmingly  described  in  Irving's  story  of  "  Wol- 
fert's  Roost." 

Washington  Irvino  was  bom  at  N.  Y.  City  in  1783,  and  died  at  Sunnyside  in 
1859.  His  father  was  a  Scotchnian,  and  his  mother  was  English.  He  studied 
law,  but  did  not  practise,  and  began  to  write  iu  his  lOtli  year.  1804-0  he  was  in 
Europe.  In  1807  he  published  "Salmagundi,"  and  in  1808,  "Knickerbocker's 
History  of  N.  Y."  The  failure  of  a  couinicrcird  house  in  which  his  funds  were 
invested  injured  his  pecuniary  position,  and  from  1815  to  1832  he  lived  in  Europe, 
wli^re,  with  the  aid  of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  he  published  "The  Sketch-Book"  and 
several  other  works.  1820-29  he  resided  in  Spain,  writing  "The  Conquest  of 
Granada,"  "  Life  of  Columbus,"  and  "Legends  of  the  Alhambra."  He  was  Sec. 
of  Legation  at  London,  1829-31 ;  and  after  his  retui-n  to  N.  Y.,  he  wrote  several 
books  of  travels.  Prom  1842  to  1846  he  was  Minister  to  Spain,  and,  after  re- 
tui-ning,  revised  his  works,  wrote  biographies  of  Goldsmith  and  Mahomet,  and 
closed  his  labors  by  a  "  Life  of  Washington."  in  5  volumes  (1855-59).  He  was  a 
mem)jer  of  many  European  and  American  learned  societies,  and  was  Doctor  of 
Laws  of  Oxford,  Harvard,  and  Columbia.  He  never  married ;  and  in  1846  he 
bought  the  old  house  of  Wolfert's  Roost,  which  was  altered  and  a  ended  from 
time  to  time  until  the  present  "  Sunnyside  "  was  finished,  and  there  he  received 
many  of  the  eminent  men  of  his  time,  including  Daniel  Webster  and  Louis  Na- 
poleon. He  Avas  a  warm  friend  of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  Tom  Moore,  Campbell,  and 
other  eminent  British  contemporaries.  Scott  said  of  "  The  Sketch-Book,"  "  It  is 
positively  beautiful" ;  Byron  speaks  of  "  Irving,  whose  writings  are  my  delight"  ; 
Louis  Napoleon  said,  "I  admire  him  both  as  a  writer  and  as  a  man";  Brj'ant 
predicts  "for  him  a  deathless  renown"  ;  Miss  Mitford  says,  "Few,  very  few,  can 
show  a  long  succession  of  volumes  so  pure,  so  graceful,  and  so  varied  as  Mr. 
Irving  " ;  and  Everett  (speaking  of  American  literature)  holds  that  "  it  can  never 
be  disputed  that  the  mild  and  beautiful  genius  of  Mr.  Irving  was  the  Morning 
Star  that  led  up  the  march  of  our  heavenly  host." 

Above,  and  near  Sunnyside,  are  the  mansions  of  Bierstadt,  Wm.  E. 
Dodge,  Robert  Hoe,  Cyrus  W.  Field,  and  other  leading  men  of  N.  Y. 
To  the  N.,  near  the  shore,  is  the  pointed  tower  of  Cunningham  Castle, 
beyond  which  is  the  Paulding  Manor,  a  costly  marble  building  in  Eliza- 
bethan architecture;  and  still  farther  N.  is  Tarrytown  {* Cliff  House; 
Irving  House ;  MotVs ;  and  several  large  summer  boarding-houses),  an 
ancient  village,  beautifully  situated  on  a  far-viewing  hillside.  Tliere  are 
many  line  villas  in  and  about  this  place  (especially  the  Erickstan  mau* 


1 


TARRYTOWN. 


JtouUS,      67 


sion),  and  the  views  over  the  Tappan  Zee  are  famed  for  their  breadth  and 
beauty.  But  this  district  has  an  interest  greater  than  that  of  mere  natu- 
ral loveliness,  in  that  it  is  the  land  of  Irving  and  of  Andri.  Here  is 
Christ  Church,  of  which  Irving  was  a  warden  when  he  died.  About  1^ 
M.  to  the  S.  is  SunnysiJe;  and  just  N.  of  the  village  is  the  sequestered 
valley  known  of  old  as  Slaeperigh  Havetij  and  immortalized  by  Irving  in 
**  Tlie  Legend  of  Sleepy  Hollow."  On  a  knoll  in  the  valley  is  the  quaint 
little  Dutch  church,  built  by  Vedryck  Flypsen  (Philipse),  the  lord  of  the 
manor,  in  1699,  with  bricks  imported  from  Holland.  On  its  spire  is  a 
flag-shaped  vane,  bearing  the  monogram  of  Flypsen ;  and  in  the  tower  is 
a  bell,  with  the  inscription,  "  Si.  Deus.  Pro.  Nobis.  Quis.  Contra.  Nos. 
1685."  Beyond  the  ancient  and  mossy  graveyard  is  the  village  cemetery 
(with  the  costly  Delavan  Monument  on  Battle  Hill),  where,  in  an  en- 
closure near  the  receiving-tomb,  is  the  flower-adorned  grave  of  Washing- 
ton Irving,  overlooking  Sleepy  Hollow  and  the  Tappan  Zee. 

In  the  dark  glen  below  the  church  is  a  bridge  over  the  Pocantico,  which  stands 
near  that  on  which  Ichabod  Crane  was  overthrown  by  the  spectre  of  the  headless 
horseman.  From  the  bridge  is  seen  Castle  Philipse,  a  grim  and  homely  old  man- 
sion. The  lands  E.  of  the  Tappan  Zee  pertained  to  the  Indian  Sachem  Goarius, 
and  were  bought  in  1680  by  Frederick  Philipse,  a  descendant  of  the  Viscounts 
Felyps,  ancient  Hussite  nobles  of  Bohemia.  These  lands  were  formed  into  a 
bai'onial  estate,  with  mansions  at  Sleepy  Hollow  and  Yonkers  ;  and  Castle  Philipse 
was  erected  in  1683,  with  lines  of  loopholes  and  artillery,  to  serve  as  a  rallying 
point  for  the  tenantry  in  case  of  Indian  hostilities.  In  1775  the  family  pronounced 
against  the  Colonies  and  in  favor  of  the  Crown,  and  being  attainted  for  treason, 
the  estates  were  confiscated  and  sold  to  tlie  tenantry.  Castle  Philipse  was  held 
by  the  Beekman  family  until  1860.  Above  the  Castle  is  the  cluster  of  modern 
villas  called  Irving  Park. 

1  M.  S.  of  the  old  Dutch  church,  Andre's  Brook  crosses  the  highway,  near  a 
marble  monument  25  ft.  high,  erect€d  by  the  people  of  Westchester  County,  "  as 
well  to  commemorate  a  great  event  as  to  testi  y  tlieir  high  estimation  of  that  in- 
tegrity and  patriotism  which,  rejecting  every  temptation,  rescued  the  United 
States  from  most  imminent  peril,  by  baffling  the  arts  of  a  spy  and  the  plots  of  a 
traitor."  Benedict  Arnold,  a  brilliant  and  ambitious  American  general,  was 
wounded  at  the  Battle  of  Saratoga,  and  afterwardii  (in  1778)  was  made  Military 
Governor  of  Philadelphia.  Here  he  married  Margaret  Shippen,  a  fair  royalist  and 
a  friend  of  the  British  Adj. -Gen.  Andre,  and  lived  in  a  state  of  luxury  and  ex- 
travagance that  was  only  sustained  by  corruption  and  malfeasance  in  ofBce. 
Of  these  charges  he  was  convicted  by  court-martial,  and  was  ivprimanded  by 
Washington.  His  proud  spirit  felt  the  disgrace  so  keenly  that  he  resolved  to  be 
revenged  npon  the  country,  ana  he  opened  a  secret  correspondence  with  Sir 
Henry  Clinton.  Obtaining  the  command  of  the  fortress  of  West  Point,  the  key 
to  the  upper  Hudson,  he  offered  to  surrender  it  to  the  British.  Ma,jor  Andre, 
Adjutant-General  of  the  British  army,  went  up  the  Tappan  Zee  on  the  sloop-of- 
war  VuUtire,  and  landed  by  night  near  Haverstraw,  where  he  arranged  with  Ar- 
nold for  the  surrender.  But  the  Vulture  was  forced  to  retire  by  an  American 
battery  on  Teller's  Point,  and  Andr6,  attempting  to  go  by  land  to  Now  York  (dis- 
guised as  a  citizen),  was  halted  at  this  point  near  Tarrytown  —  in  the  Neutral 
Ground  —  by  a  sqnad  of  irregular  militia.  He  was  searched,  and  the  papers  and 
plans  of  the  surrender  were  found  in  Iris  stockings.  Refusing  the  princely  bribes 
that  he  offered  them  to  release  him,  \  le  militiamen  carried  him  to  head-quarters, 
whence  he  was  removed  io  Tappan,  tried  before  a  court-martial,  convicted,  and 
hung  as  a  spy  (Oct.  2,  1780),  amid  the  mourning  of  both  armies.  John  Andr6  was 
*  young  man  of  noble  character,  an  artist,  poet,  and  chivalric  soldier,  involun- 
tarily a  spy,  and  died  heroically,  his  last  words  being,  "  I  pray  you  to  bear  me 
witness  that  I  meet  my  fate  like  a  brave  man."    He  was  but  29  years  of  age,  of 


II 


68     JtouU  8, 


SING  SINQ. 


Swiss  pamitage  ;  and  In  1831  his  remains  were  removed  from  Tappan  and  bnried 
in  Westniinster  Abbey,  near  the  elegant  mural  monument  which  was  raised  to  his 
memory  by  King  George  III. 

Turrytown  occupies  the  site  of  the  Indian  village  of  AUpeonek  ("  Phice  of  £lms  "), 
and  was  early  settled  by  the  Dutch,  who  called  it  Terwen  Dorp,  or  "  Wheat  Town," 
from  its  large  crops  of  that  cereal.  Tlic  English  conquerors  retained  the  "  Ter- 
wen," and  modulated  it  to  its  present  name,  though  Irving  says:  "The  name 
was  given,  we  are  told,  in  former  days  by  the  good  housewives  of  the  adjacent 
country,  from  the  inveterate  propensity  of  their  husbands  to  linger  about  tne  vil- 
lage taverns  on  market  days. 

A  stage  leaves  Tarrytown  daily  at  2  p.  m.,  and  passes  S.  E.  to  White  Tlains  and 
Fort  Chester.    N.  of  Tarrytown  are  the  mansions  of  Fremont  and  AspinwaJU. 

,  Nearly  opposite  Tarrytown  (steam  ferry  every  half-hour)  is  Nyack-on- 
the-Hitdson,  a  prosperous  village  at  the  foot  of  the  rugged  Nyack  Hills. 
With  a  population  of  3,438,  the  village  has  3  weekly  and  2  monthly 
papers,  and  several  shoe  factories.  Boulevards  ICO  ft.  wide  lead  to  Rock- 
land Lake  on  the  N.  and  Piermont  on  the  S.  Great  quantities  of  milk, 
fruits,  and  vegetables  are  shipped  from  this  point  to  N.  Y.  The  Bock- 
land  Female  Institute  is  a  favorite  academy  located  here,  and  its  large 
brick  building,  situated  on  a  far-viewing  promontory  S.  of  the  village,  is 
used  as  a  summer  boarding-house,  under  the  name  of  the  *  Tappan  Zee 
House.  The  Palmer  (new  in  1873),  Smithsonian,  and  Clarendon  Houses 
are  also  popular  summer  hotels.  Nyack  is  the  N.  terminus  of  the  North- 
em  N.  J.  R.  R.  N.  of  Tarrytown  are  many  fine  river-side  villas,  and  the 
steamer  ascends  the  placid  Tappan  Zee  to  Sing  Sing,  a  large  village, 
beautifully  placed  on  a  long  upward  slope.  It  has  4,696  inhabitants,  5 
chiirches,  and  2  weekly  papers.  There  are  2  large  military  schools  here, 
and  on  Highland  Avenue  are  several  summer  boarding-housed.  Great 
Methodist  camp-meetings  are  held  here  annually.  Sing  Sing  is  an  Indian 
name,  meaning  "  Stone  upon  Stone  "  (or  from  Ossining,  "  a  stony  place  "); 
and  this  portion  of  the  Philipse  Manor  was  settled  in  the  17th  century. 
Over  a  ravine  at  this  point  the  Croton  Aqueduct  is  carried  on  an  elliptical 
arch  of  masonry  of  88  ft  span.  4-5  M.  E.  of  Sing  Sing  are  the  Chap- 
poqna  Sulphur  Springs,  near  the  former  home  of  Horace  Greeley. 

The  Sing  Sing  State  Prison  (1  of  the  8  in  N.  T.  State)  was  founded  about  1826, 
with  a  view  of  employing  the  convicts  in  the  marble  quarries.  The  buildings 
were  erected  by  felons  from  the  Auburn  Prison,  and  stand  at  the  foot  of  the 
marble  ridge  of  Mt.  Pleasant,  J  M.  8.  of  the  village  (near  the  river),  in  grounds 
covering  130  acres.  The  main  prison  is  484  ft.  long,  and  has  1,200  celb,  with  an 
iron  foundry  and  manufactories  of  whips,  saddles,  shoes,  furniture,  etc.,  where 
the  convict  labor  is  utilissed.  The  female  prison  is  to  the  £.  on  higher  ground, 
and  is  built  of  marble  with  a  classic  portico.  It  has  108  cells,  and  the  prisoners 
are  employed  in  making  clothing. 

Opposite  Sing  Sing  (ferry  frequently)  is  Rockland  Lake,  1  M.  from  and 
160  ft.  above  the  river,  and  3  M.  around.  It  is  the  source  of  the  Hacken- 
sack  River,  and  1,000  men  are  engaged  during  the  winter  in  cutting  and 
storing  the  200,000  tons  of  ice  which  are  sent  hence  to  N.  Y.  every  sum- 
mer (by  the  Knickerbocker  Ice  Go.).    There  is  a  large  hamlet  on  its 


STONY  POINT. 


Jl<nUe  8.      69 


mgged  S.  E.  shore,  and  broad  views  are  ei^joyed  from  the  riverward 
heights  (with  Tom  Mt.  on  the  N.  \7.).  Spacious  ice-houses  are  seen 
near  the  river.  Just  above  this  landing  is  Verdrietege  Hook,  or  Point-no- 
Point,  a  bold  rocky  promontory  at  the  E.  end  of  the  Ramapo  Mta.  Abo\'' 
Sing  Sing  is  seen  Croton  Point  (the  Indian  Senasqua ;  the  historic  Teller ^ 
Point),  projecting  2  M.  between  the  Tappan  Zee  and  Haverstruw  Bay, 
and  covered  with  rich  vineyards  and  orchards. 

At  thiB  point  the  Croton  River  enters  the  Hudson.  6  M.  up  this  river  in  the 
famous  Croton  Lake^  from  which  N.  Y.  City  is  supniied  witti  water.  This 
narrow  lalie  is  5  M.  lung,  and  is  formed  by  a  dam  250  ft.  long,  40  ft.  high,  and  70 
ft.  thiulc  at  the  bottom.  The  water  is  conducted  to  N.  Y.  in  an  aciueduct  40.V  M. 
long,  by  16  tunnels  and  2!i  bridges.  The  conduit  is  of  briclc,  8^  ft.  high  and  7^ 
wide,  and  descends  131  inches  to  the  M.  Tliere  are  white  stone  towers  for  venti- 
lation at  every  M..  and  the  daily  cai)acity  of  the  anucduct  is  (>0,OUO,000  gallons. 

Near  Croton  Bay  (where  Hudson  anchored  the  Half-Moon  in  lOOD),  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river,  is  the  ancient  Van  (Jortlandt  Manor  House.  The  Van  Cortlandts  were 
descended  from  the  Russian  Dulces  of  Courland,  and  in  lGi)7  Stephen  of  that  ilk 
founded  a  broad  manor  on  the  Hudson.  The  manor  house  was  built  (about  1710) 
of  heavy  masonry,  with  loopholes,  and  it  looked  out  on  Croton  Bay  as  it  now 
does.  This  family  took  the  American  side  at  the  outbreak  of  the  Revolution,  and 
gave  a  mt^jor-genferal  to  the  army. 

The  Highlands  loom  up  boldly  in  front  as  the  steamer  crosses  the  beau- 
tiful Haverstraw  Bay  to  Haverstraw,  an  important  village  above  Long 
Clove  Mt.,  and  under  a  range  of  high  hills.  N.  of  this  point  is  Treason 
Hill,  where,  at  Smith's  old  stone  house,  Benedict  Arnold  and  John  Andre 
arranged  the  terms  of  the  betrayal  of  the  Republic  (Sept.  22,  1780).  N. 
E.  of  Haverstraw  (by  ferry)  is  Cruger*s,  a  R.  R.  station  and  a  popular 
summer-resort  at  the  head  <of  Haverstraw  Bay.  The  *  Cortlandt  Park 
Hotel  is  a  new  house  for  160  guests,  with  fine  river-views  and  drives. 
Lak^s  Croton,  Mahopac,  and  Oscawana  are  visited  from  tliis  point.  The 
riparian  scenery  now  grows  more  grand  and  striking,  and  the  tall  High- 
lands aie  rapidly  approached.  Above  Haverstraw  is  a  Ihie  of  limestone 
cliffs,  which  have  produced  1,000,000  bushels  of  lime  yearly  ;  and  2  M. 
above  is  Brassy  Point,  the  seat  of  large  brickyards  (50-60,000,000  brick 
are  made  in  this  town  yearly).  1  M.  farther  is  Stony  Point  (W.  bank), 
a  high,  rocky  peninsula,  crowned  with  ruined  mounds  and  a  lighthouse 
(on  the  magazine  of  the  old  fort).  Opposite  Stony  Point  is  the  bluff 
Verplanck's  Point,  with  its  modem  village  and  church. 

Off  the  promontory  called  Meahagh,  Hudson  anchored  his  ship  and  was  visited 
by  crowds  of  astonished  Higliland  Indians.  In  1G83  Meahagh  was  attached  to 
the  Van  Cortlandt  Manor,  whobo  heiress,  Gertrude,  was  married  by  Philip  Ver- 
planck,  in  honor  of  whom  the  point  was  named.  About  1^70  Fort  Fayette  was 
built  on  Verplanck's  Point,  and  Stony  Point  was  also  fortified  in  oixler  to  guard 
the  King's  Ferry  and  the  lower  gate  to  the  Highlands.  June  1, 1779,  Sir  Henry 
Clinton  and  Admiral  Collier  attacked  these  works.  The  slender  garrison  at  Stony 
Point  fell  back  into  the  Highlands  without  fighting,  and  Fort  Fayette  surrendered 
after  being  cannonaded.  Washington  deeply  lamented  the  loss  of  such  a  valuable 
strategic  position  ;  but  Gen.  Wayne  begged  intermission  to  attack  and  recapture 
the  works,  saying,  "General,  I  11  storm  hell  if  you  will  only  plan  it."  Stony 
Point  was  garrisoned  by  the  17th  regiment  and  several  grenadier  companies ; 


70      Route  8. 


THE  DUNDERBERG. 


Fort  Fayett6  had  an  equal  cnrrison  ;  and  several  war-vessels  lay  in  the  river.  At 
mklnigiit  on  July  10,  Imvlng  previounly  cut  utt' the  outer  sentries,  Wayne  advanced 
silently  along  tiie  beach  with  two  small  columns  of  ])icl<e<l  men  (&th  I'enn.  and 
Mass.  Light  Ini'antry).  and  carried  the  I'ort  at  the  point  of  tlie  bayonet,  under  a 
heavy  tire  of  niusl^etry  and  grape-shot.  Wayne  was  shot  in  the  head  at  the  inner 
abatis,  and  shouted  to  his  men,  "  March  on  I  carry  me  into  the  fort,  for  I  will  die 
at  the  head  of  my  column."  13ut  when  the  Penn.  and  Moss,  columns  met  in  the 
centre  of  the  works,  and  the  roll  of  their  cheering  swept  over  tlio  river,  Wayne 
was  strong  enough  to  write  to  Wasliington :  "  The  fort  and  garrison,  witli  Col. 
Johnston,  are  ours.  Our  oftlcers  and  men  behaved  like  men  who  arc  determined 
to  be  free."  The  British  standard  was  struck  bv  Lt.-Col.  do  Floury  (of  the  Mass. 
Light  Infantry,  and  afterwaixls  a  marshal  of  France),  a  descendant  of  Cardiual 
de  Fleury,  Premier  of  France.  He  received  from  Congress  a  vote  of  thanks  and  a 
medal.  The  Americans  lost  98  men  ;  and  the  British  loss  was  63,  besides  643 
prisoners.  Woyne  cannonaded  Verplanck's  Point  all  next  day,  but  Sir  Henry 
Clinton  sent  up  reinforcements ;  and,  in  obedience  to  Washington's  orders,  the 
Stony  Point  fortre»;s  was  desti-oycd  and  abandoned.  The  galley  wlilch  was  con- 
veying the  heav.v  artillery  to  West  Point  was  sunk  by  a  shot  from  the  V%dt\ire. 
•*  The  assault  of  Stony  Point  is  not  only  the  most  brilliant  I  am  acquainted  with 
throughout  the  whole  course  of  the  war,  on  either  side,  but  it  is  the  most  brilliant 
that  I  am  acquainted  with  in  history ;  the  assault  of  Schiveidnitz,  by  Marshal 
Laudon,  I  think  inferior  to  it."    (Oen.  Lee.) 

Passing  now  the  great  lime-kilns  on  the  W.  shore,  at  3  M.  from  Stony 
i'^oint  is  seen  Caldwell's  Landing,  at  the  foot  of  the  abrupt  and  imposing 
*  Dunderberg  (Thnuder  Mt.),  which  was  anciently  believed  to  be  the 
home  of  stormy  imps. 

"  The  captains  of  the  river  craft  talk  of  a  little  bulbous-bottomed  Dutch  goblin, 
in  trunk  hose  and  sugar-loafed  hat,  with  a  speaking-trumpet  in  his  hand,  which, 
they  say,  keeps  the  Bonder  Berg.  They  declare  that  they  have  heard  him  in 
stormy  weather,  in  the  midat  of  the  turmoil,  giving  orders  in  Low  Dutch  for  the 
piping  up  of  a  IVesh  gust  of  wind,  or  the  rattling  off  of  another  thunder-clap. 
That  sometimes  he  has  been  seen  surrounded  by  a  crew  of  little  imps,  in  broad 
breeches  and  short  doublets,  tumbling  head  over  heels  in  the  rack  and  mist,  and 
playing  a  thousand  gambols  in  the  air,  or  buzzing  like  a  swarm  of  flies  vbout 
Anthony's  Nose ;  and  that,  at  such  times,  the  hurry-skurry  of  the  stoni.  vcao 
always  greatestt  ....  Skipper  Daniel  Ouslesticker,  of  Fish  Kill,  who  was  never 
known  to  tpll  a  lie,  declared  that,  in  a  severe  squall,  he  saw  hiin  seated  astride  of 
his  bowsprit,  riding  the  sloop  ashore,  fliU  butt  against  Anthony's  Nose,  and  that 
he  was  exorcised  by  Dominie  Van  Geisen  of  Esopus,  who  happened  to  be  on 
board,  and  who  sang  the  song  of  St.  Nicholas,  whereupon  the  goblin  threw  him- 
self u^)  in  the  air  like  a  ball,  and  went  off  in  a  whirlwind,  cari7ing  away  with  him 
th6  nightcap  of  the  Dominie's  wife,  which  was  discovered  the  next  Sunday 
morning  hanging  on  the  weathercock  of  Esopus  church  steei)le,  at  least  40  M.  off. 
Several  events  of  this  kind  liaving  taken  place,  the  regular  skipjiers  of  the  river 
for  a  long  time  did  not  venture  to  pass  the  Donder  Berg  without  lowerinjr  their 
peaks,  out  of  homage  to  the  Heer  of  the  Mts.  ;  and  it  was  observed  that  all  such 
as  paid  this  tribute  of  respect  were  suffered  to  pass  unmolested."    (luvmo.) 

Some  years  ago  an  iron  cannon  was  found  in  the  river  off  tlic  Dunderberg  (one 
of  the  captured  British  guns  shipped  from  Stony  Point,  and  sunk  on  its  barge  by 
a  shot  from  the  British  sloop-of-war  Vnlture).  On  this  slender  basis,  a  sliarp 
speculator  proclaimed  that  Capt.  Kidd's  pirate-ship  (see  page  65)  was  sunk  at  this 
point  Avith  all  its  treasures  on  board  ;  formed  a  stock  company  and  raised  large 
sums  of  money  (on  the  evidence  of  a  long  auger  which  had  bored  through  the 
deck  and  brought  up  silver  on  its  thread).  A  coffer-dam  and  huge  pumps  worked 
for  months  off^  the  Dunderberg,  and  the  ruins  of  the  works  may  still  l)e  seen. 
The  originator  of  the  scheme  was  enriched  by  it,  but  scores  of  others  made  heavy 
losses. 

Opposite  the  Dunderberg  is  the  bright  village  of  Peekskill  {Continental 
Hotel),  situated  on  an  elevated  and  sheltered  plain  E.  of  Peekskill  Bay.    It 


THE  HIGHLANDS. 


R<mUS. 


1 


•vao 


has  6,560  inhabitants,  2  weekly  papers,  and  a  military  school.  At  ^'  « 
place  is  a  convent  of  Franciscan  Sisters  ;  and  near  the  river  is  the  Acaw 
emy  of  Our  Lady  of  Angels.  To  tlie  E.  is  the  summer  home  of  Henry 
Ward  Beecher.  There  is  a  steam-ferry  to  Caldwell's  Landing,  under  the 
Dnnderberg.  The  village  stands  at  the  mouth  of  the  romantic  Peek's 
Kill  Hollow,  and  affords  many  fine  drives  among  the  hills. 

Some  time  In  the  17th  century  Jan  Peek,  a  Dutch  mariner,  was  sailing  up  the 
Hudson,  and  tailing  the  wrong  (tourse,  entered  and  ascended  abroad  creek,  whose 
fertl!?  banks  so  pleased  hbn  tlmt  he  named  it  Peek's  Kill,  and  settled  there.  On 
the  high  promontory  N.  or  the  village,  Fort  Indci>endence  was  erected  during  the 
Ilevohition,  and  Putnam  made  his  head-<|uart(>ri  tliere.  Large  barruuks  and  sup> 
jtly-depots  were  at  Continental  Village,  3  M.  N.  E.  among  the  hills  ;  and  in  Oct.. 
1777,  it  was  attacked  and  destroyed  by  Emerick's  Hessian  chasseurs.  2  M.  E.  or 
Peekskill  is  a  later  manor-houne  of  tho  Van  Cortlandts,  near  which  is  the  little 
old  Episcopal  Church  of  8t.  Peter  (built  1707),  witli  n  monument  in  its  venerable 

Savoyard  erected  by  N.  Y.  City  to  John  Paulding,  one  of  the  incorruptible  cap- 
rs  of  Andr6.  To  the  N.  is  the  lofty  bare  ridge  of  Gallows  Hill,  which  commands 
a  fine  view  of  Peekskill  nnd  the  river,  the  Hollow,  and  Westchester  County  as  far 
as  Tarrytown.    On  the  N.  is  Continental  Village,  in  the  rich  Canopus  Valley,  be- 

5'ond  which  are  "  the  rough  turrets  of  the  Hifjhland  towers  "  On  the  summit  of 
his  hill  was  executed  Lieut.  Palmer,  a  loyalist  offlner  of  the  royal  army.  He 
was  caught  in  disguise  within  the  American  lines,  and  in  answer  to  the  demands 
of  Sir  Henry  Clinton  for  his  release,  Putnam  wrote  :  "Hir,  —  Edmund  Palmer,  an 
officer  in  the  enemy's  service,  was  taken  as  a  spy,  lurking  within  our  lines.  He 
has  been  tried  as  a  spy,  condemned  as  a  spy,  and  shall  he  executed  as  a  spy ;  and 
the  flag  is  oi'dered  to  depart  accordingly.  P.  S.  He  has  been  accordingly  exe- 
cuted.^ In  March,  1777,  Gallows  Hill  was  held  by  the  retreating  garrison  of 
Peekskill,  when  that  place  was  capfiired  by  12  sail  of  British  vessels,  and  its 
great  depots  of  supplies  were  burnt. 

Bending  to  the  N.  W.  at  Peekskill,  the  Hudson  enters  that  part  of  its 
course  called  the  Race,  and  passes  through  the  beautiful  *  Highlands, 
which  Chateaubriand  likened  to  "  a  large  bouquet  tied  at  its  base  with 
azure  ribbon."  From  Peekskill  to  Newburgh  stretches  a  panorama  of 
river  scenery  unsurpassed  in  the  world.  Dunderberg,  on  the  L,  confronts 
Anthony's  Nose  on  the  r. 

This  bold  promontory  derives  its  name  (according  to  Irving)  from  the  following 
incident :  "  It  must  be  known,  then,  that  the  nose  of  Anthony  the  trumpeter  was 
of  a  very  lusty  size,  strutting  boldly  from  his  countenance  like  a  mountain  of 
Golconda,  lieing  sumptuously  bedecked  with  rubies  and  other  precious  stones,  — 
the  true  regalia  of  a  king  of  good  fellows,  which  jolly  Bacchus  grants  to  all  who 
bouse  it  heartily  at  the  flagon.  Now  thus  it  happened,  that  bright  and  early  in 
the  morning,  the  good  Anthony,  having  washed  his  burly  visage,  was  leaning  over 
the  quarter-railing  of  the  galley,  contemplating  it  in  the  glassy  wave  below.  Just 
at  this  moment  the  illustrious  sun,  breaking  in  all  his  splendor  from  behind  a 
high  bluff  of  the  Highlands,  did  dart  one  of  his  most  pot«nt  beams  full  upon  the 
refulgent  nose  of  the  sounder  of  'brass,  the  reflection  of  which  shot  straightway 
down  hissing  hot  into  the  water,  and  killed  a  mighty  sturgeon  that  was  disporting 
beside  the  vessel.  This  huge  monster,  being  with  infinite  labor  hoisted  on  boaitl, 
furnished  a  luxurious  repast  to  all  the  crew,  l»eing  accounted  of  excellent  flavor 
excepting  about  the  wound,  where  it  smacked  a  little  of  brimstone  ;  and  this,  on 
my  veracity,  was  the  first  time  that  ever  sturgeon  was  eat«n  in  these  parts  by 
Christian  people.  When  this  astonishing  miracle  became  known  to  Peter  Stuy- 
vesant,  and  that  he  tasted  of  the  unknown  fish,  he,  as  may  well  be  supposed,  mar- 
velled exceedingly  ;  and  as  a  monument  thereof,  he  gave  the  name  of  Anthony's 
Nose  to  a  stout  promontory  in  the  neighborhood,  and  it  has  continued  to  be  called 
Anthony's  Nose  ever  since  that  time.' 


72      Houte  8. 


PORT  MONTGOMERY. 


Falling  from  the  slopes  of  Anthony's  Nose  is  the  romant{<  Brocken  Kill ; 

and  near  the  W.  shore  is  the  grape-abounding  lona  Island  (the  N.  limit 

of  the  8ea-breez«»),  under  the  Dunderberg  and  near  the  mouth  of  the  Forest- 

of-Dean  Creek.    Just  above  and  also  on  the  W.  shure  is  the  old  Poplopen 

Kill  (now  Fort  Montgomery  Creek),  whose  deep,  tranquil  current  conducts 

in  i  M.  to  uliff-environed  falls.    Bear  Mt.  is  seen  on  the  W. 

On  the  high  promontories  at  the  mouth  of  this  creek  are  some  remains  of  Forts 
Montgomery  (N.)  and  Clinton  (8.).  In  1776-70,  these  wortcn  were  built,  and  a 
strong  boom  and  an  iron  chain  floated  on  raftH  were  stretched  acroua  the  river  and 
guarded  by  a  flotilla  of  gunboats.  Thin  system  of  defencett  was  deiiigncd  to  close 
the  upper  Hudson  aoainst  the  British  fleet.  In  Oct.,  1777,  Sir  Henry  Clinton  and 
6,000  men  advanced  hitherward,  and  after  some  sharp  skirmishing  in  the  deflles 
and  glens  of  the  Dunderberg  and  about  Lake  Sinnipink,  the  hostile  army  divided 
into  2  c!olumnB,  which  api^eared  before  the  forts  and  demandM  their  surrender. 
The  garrisons  consisted  of  000  militia,  under  Gens.  James  and  Oeoive  Clinton. 
The  British  fleet  opened  upon  the  works  and  gunboats,  and  the  Inna  forces  at- 
tacked with  the  bayonet.  Lord  Rawdon  and  the  Polish  Count  Crabowski  led  the 
assault  on  Fort  Montgomery,  and  the  latter  fell  under  its  walls,  and  is  now  buried 
there.  Putnam's  New-Englanders,  aroused  by  the  roaring  of  the  artillery  amid 
the  Highlands,  were  unable  to  cross  the  river,  and  the  remnant  of  the  over- 
powered garrison  retired  into  tlie  hills  in  the  cloudy  twlli(rlit.  The  fleet  was 
unable  to  escape  by  reason  of  an  advei-so  wind,  and  the  vessels  were  burnt  at  the 
ehevaux  de/Hse.  "  The  flames  suddenly  broke  forth,  and  as  every  sail  was  set,  the 
vessels  soon  liecame  magniflcent  pyramids  of  Are.  The  reflection  on  the  steep 
face  of  the  opposite  mt. ,  and  the  long  train  of  rud^  light  which  shone  upon  the 
water  for  a  prodigious  distance,  had  a  wonderful  efreet,  while  the  ear  was  awfully 
flUed  with  the  continued  echoes  fW)m  the  rocky  shores,  m  the  flames  gradually 
reached  the  loaded  cannons.  Tlie  whole  was  sublimely  terminated  by  the  explo- 
sions, which  left  all  again  in  darkness."  The  British  loss  was  140,  and  the  Amer- 
icans lost  300  men,  100  cannon,  2  fVigates,  and  3  smaller  armed  vessels.  The  next 
morning  the  victors  cleared  away  the  ol>structions  which  had  cost  Congress 
S  250,000,  and  had  a  clear  woy  up  thie  river  (see  Thackeray's  "Virginians,"  Chap. 
XCI.).  Just  8.  W.  of  old  Fort  Clinton  is  Lake  Sinnipink,  a  forest-bound  sheet  of 
crystal  water  (123  ft.  above  the  river),  from  whose  W.  shore  Bear  Mt.  rises  sheer 
to  the  height  of  over  1,000  ft.  Much  severe  fighting  occurred  at  the  strung  abatia 
by  this  lake,  and  the  slain  soldiers  were  throwrn  into  its  calm  depths,  whence  it 
was  long  called  Bloody  Pond.  There  ai-o  considerable  ruins  at  Fort  Montgomery : 
but  Foix  Clinton  has  been  razed.  To  the  W.  is  the  Forest  of  Dean,  and  the  rugged 
mt.  town  of  Monroe,  with  its  many  lakes. 

The  river  now  bends  to  the  N.  E.  Far  in  advance  is  the  ruined  height 
of  Fort  Putnam  ;  and  on  the  r.  front  is  the  symmetrical  cone  of  Sugar- 
Loaf  Mt.  Highland  Falls  are  now  seen  on  the  1.,  a  series  of  wliite 
rapids  on  a  brook  which  falls  100  ft.  to  the  river  (near  which  is  the 
*  Cascade  House).  Here  are  large  flour-mills  ;  and  just  above  is  *  Cozzens* 
Hotel,  a  fashionable  summer  resort,  on  a  high  bluff,  with  pleasant  rambles 
and  drives.  There  is  a  steam-ferry  from  Cozzens'  to  Garrison's;  and  a 
email  village  is  near  the  former. 

♦West  Point 

"  In  this  beuiitifUl  place :  the  fairest  among  the  fair  and  lovely  Highlands  of 
the  North  River :  shut  in  by  deep  green  heights  and  ruined  forts,  and  looking 
down  upon  the  distant  town  of  Nowburgh  along  a  glittering  path  of  sunlit  water, 
with  liere  and  there  a  skiff*  whose  white  sail  often  bends  on  some  new  tack  as 
sudden  flaws  of  wind  come  down  upon  her  from  the  gullies  in  the  hills :  hemmed 
in,  liesides,  all  around  with  memones  of  Washington  and  events  of  the  Revolu- 
tionary War :  is  the  Military  dchooi  of  America."    (Dickens.) 


WEST  POINT. 


JtoukS,      73 


> 


In  1775,  CongreM  ordertHl  ilmt  the  narrow  paaiM  of  the  Hudson  «hould  b« 
fortified,  and  ho  Fort  b'uiiHtittitlon  wan  erected.  u|>})Oftite  Went  I'oint ;  but  being 
connnanded  by  atlJacentliillH,  it  waa  aluindoned  on  Mir  Henry  ClliiUm'a  lulvnnoe 
in  Oct.,  1777.  In  1778 -7U.  WcHt  Point  and  iU  approaches  were  fortiiled  with  4 
forti  and  8  redoubts,  and  h<<canie  "  the  Uihraltnr  o;  Anierlna  " :  and  a  niussive 
iron  chain  and  booin«i  were  stretched  across  the  river  to  Constitution  Island.  It 
was  the  most  iuii>ortaiit  intnt  in  the  Union,  as  keeping  open  transit  t«>  and  fh)m 
New  England,  and  alMo  hh  ciosina  all  chance  of  the  British  in  N.  Y.  City  for 
direct  connuuni(;atiou  witli  I'anada.  The  various  works  were  armed  with  118 
cannon,  and  garrisoned  by  :i,U8<t  men.  In  Mept.,  1780,  when  Arnold's  treason 
culminated  In  failure.  At'i  r  the  war,  the  fortress  was  abandoned,  and  fell  into 
ruin.  In  17 '<3,  and  ngain  in  1798,  Washington  recommende<L  that  a  military 
school  shoulii  l»e  founded  at  West  Point  In  1802  it  was  authorized  by  Congress, 
and  in  181'i  it  went  into  oiMsn^tion.  There  have  been  about  4,04)0  men  educated 
here,  and  they  have  led  the   irniles  of  the  Republic,  in  all  her  later  wars.    The 

fveiii  generals  of  the  Hecessioi^  War,  on  either  side,  were  graduates  of  this  school. 
Ivery  Congressional  dintrict  is  entitled  to  send  here  annually  one  youth  (physi- 
caily  iterl'ect,  and  grounded  in  elementary  education),  who  shall  devote  4  years  to 
arduous  H"a«lemic  and  military  studies,  raceiving  the  pay  of  ^41.tiO  a  month,  and 
one  nition  daily.  The  graduate  enters  upon  the  rank  and  pay  of  a  lid  lieut.  in  the 
U.  8.  Anny.  The  Corps  of  Cadets  has  about  250  ir...>mbers,  who  remain  in  camp 
during  the  summer  (from  July  20).  Various  drills  and  evoluti(ms  are  carried  on 
during  the  day ;  but  the  most  imposing  spectacle  is  the  evening  dress-parade, 
At  sunset.    The  National  Military  Academy  is  &1  M.  fh>m  N.  Y.  City. 

The  buildings  of  the  Academy  occupy  a  plateau  157  ft.  above  the  river 
(W.  bank),  and  are  I'eached  by  a  steep  road  out  along  the  cliff-side  at 
great  expense.  The  Plain  is  a  broad  plateau  wliiuh  is  used  for  the  evolu- 
tions  of  the  artillery,  infantry,  and  cavalry;  and  on  its  verge  are  the 
spacious  buildings  of  the  school.  The  Cadets'  Barracks  and  th^  Academic 
Building  are  fine  stone  structures  in  castellated  architecture ;  the  Library 
Building  has  over  20,000  volumes,  and  in  its  dome  is  an  equatorial  tele- 
scope, while  the  towers  contain  a  mural  circle  and  a  transit  instrument. 
The  Chapel  has  a  large  chancel-picture  by  Prof.  Weir;  on  the  E.  side  are 
memorial  tablets  to  the  officers  o  fell  in  the  Mexican  War,  and  trophy 
cannon  and  colors  taken  in  that  war;  and  on  the  W.  side  are  memorials 
to  the  generals  of  the  Revolution,  the  cannons  given  to  Gen.  Greene,  and 
trophy  flags  captured  from  British  and  German  regiments.  The  *  Museum 
(jff  Ordnance  and  Trophies  •  outains  hundreds  of  models  of  arms  and  am- 
munition,  cannon,  horses,  itc. ;  Rebel  missiles  and  torpedoes;  a  15-inch 
shot  fired  from  the  U.  S.  iron-clads  into  Fort  Sumter,  and  recaptured  by 
the  U.  S.  army  at  Columbia,  S.  C. ;  Indian  trophies;  a  large  model  of  the 
silver-mines  of  Valenciana;  Mexican  flags  taken  in  battle  ;  Aztec  idols  ; 
the  eagle  and  drapery  from  the  hall  of  the  Mexican  Senate;  and  the 
colors  of  the  regular  army  in  the  Shawnee,  British,  Seminole,  Mexican, 
and  Secession  Wars.  Tlie  Picture  Gallery  is  in  the  Acatlemic  Building  ; 
and  on  the  2d  floor  is  a  large  collection  of  mo<lels  of  bridges,  buildings, 
fortifications,  parallels  and  redoubts,  and  of  Fort  Wagner  (near  Charles- 
ton) and  the  fortress  of  San  Juan  d'Ulloa  (at  Vera  Cruz).  Below  the 
Library  is  the  Riding  Hall  (used  from  11  to  1  o'clock) ;  and  near  the  N. 
Wharf  is  the  Sea-Cioast  Battery,  coramauding  the  river  with  an  armament 


74      Jtoute  8. 


WEST  POINT. 


of  immense  guns.  The  Trophy  Battery,  on  the  Plain,  looks  down  througli 
the  Gate  of  the  Highlands ;  and  here  and  in  the  vicinity  are  many  cap- 
tured cannon,  including  the  mortars  taken  by  Wayne  at  Stony  Point; 
British  mortars  from  Saratoga ;  "  Le  Monarque"  a  costly  gun  given  by 
Congress  to  Lafayette  ;  ancient  Mexican  artillery ;  the  fragments  of  a  80- 
pound  Parrott  gun  that  hurled  4,606  shot  into  Charleston,.  S.  C. ;  many 
Bebel  cannon,  including  the  immenbe  Blakely  (English)  guns  from  Hilton 
Head,  Fort  Morean,  Fort  Pulaski,  Fort  Fisher,  And  the  famous  WWtworth 
gnn,  "  Whistling  Dick,"  from  Morris  Id.  Also  a  portion  of  the  iron 
cliain  that  was  stretched  across  the  Hudson  in  1778  ;  and  the  field-piece 
(of  Elder's  Battery)  that  fire<l  the  last  shot  before  Lee's  surrender.  On 
ihe  N.  E.  angle  of  the  Plain  is  Fort  Clinton,  a  restoration  of  that  ancient 
Fort  Arnold  whose  name  was  changed  when  Arnold  became  a  traitor.  In 
this  work  is  a  marble  column  in  honor  of  Kosciuszko;  and  N.  of  the 
Library  is  the  quiet  terrace>garden  where  the  noble  Pole  ^  was  wont  to 
seek  meditative  rest.  Flirtation  Walk  leads  from  the  Garden  to  the 
Plain.  Battery  Knox  is  S.  of  Fort  Clinton  ;  and  the  old  Cliain  Battery 
Walk  leads  thence  around  the  bank  to  Gee's  Point  and  the  N.  Wharf. 
Near  Fort  Clinton  is  a  graceful  monument  to  Major  Dade's  command, 
which  was  attacked  by  the  Seminole  Indians  of  Florida,  while  marching 
to  relieve  Fort  King  (in  1835),  and  out  of  108  soldiers,  105  were  massacred 
at  their  posts  of  duty.  A  bronze  statue  of  Gen.  Sedgwick  has  lately  been 
erected  on  the  parade  ground  ;  and  there  is  to  be  a  memorial  monument 
to  the  officers  who  fell  in  the  Secession  War.  In  the  upper  part  of  the 
grounds  is  a  marble  obelisk  honoring  Lt.-Col.  Wood,  who  fell  in  the  sor- 
tie from  Fort  Erie  (Sept.  17,  1814);  and  near  it  is  the  Siege  Battery. 
The  Cemetery  is  over  Camptown  (soldiers'  quarters),  and  contains  many 
graves  of  officers,  including  Gens.  Winfield  Scott  and  Robert  Anderson. 
The  Cadets'  Monument  is  a  heavy  castellated  column,  surmounted  by  an 
urn  and  trophies.  To  the  S.  is  the  picturesque  Church  of  the  Holy  Inno- 
cents, erected  by  Prof.  Weir  in  memory  of  his  children.  Fort  Putnam  is 
a  gray  ruin  crowning  Mt.  Independence,  596  ft.  above  the  river.  It  was 
built  in  1778  (and  rebuilt  in  1794),  and  from  its  lofty  position  was  deemed 
impregnable.  It  was  flanked  on  lower  ground  by  Forts  Webb  and 
Wyllys,  and  by  3  redoubts  on  Rocky  Hill.  The  ♦views  from  many 
parts  of  West  Point  are  very  beautiful,  but  those  from  Fort  Putnam  are 
the  finest,  including  the  chief  peaks  of  the  Highlands,  the  battery-crowned 

1  KflMiiiiiko  wai  born  in  Poland  in  I7fi6,  and  wai  educated  at  the  mUItarr  academies  of 
IVanaw  and  Pari*.  He  waa  lent  by  franklin  to  Wushington,  who  made  nim  colonel  of 
enitineera  (thouvh  but  au  yeera  old).  Hr  planned  Oatei  a  lortifled  linea  near  Haratoga,  and 
the  fortreaa  of  west  I'oint,  and  remained  in  the  service  until  the  dose  of  the  war.  In  171)8 
he  raised  Poland  in  insurrection,  and  defeated  several  Russian  and  l*russian  armies  ;  Aus- 
tria then  declared  aaainst  him,  and  he  was  u  terly  defeated  by  ia>,<lOO  men  at  Muclejowicc, 
and  fell  covered  with  wounda,  wailin/i,  "  Finis  PolonisB."  The  Empemr  Pnnl  I.  freed  him 
and  olfcred  him  a  sword,  but  he  sadly  declined  it,  saj inir,  **  I  have  no  need  of  a  sword  :  I 
hare  no  country  to  defend."  He  dSed  in  Switserland  in  1(«17,  and  rercived  a  stately-  burtal 
In  Cracow  Cathadral,  In  tiie  royal  vaults  bctWMn  Poniotowski  and  Sobieski. 


GARRISON'S-ON-HUDSON.         RmUeS.      75 


kui- 


trial 


heights  closer  at  hand,  broad  reaches  of  the  bright  river,  and  the  martial 
Iialls  below,  Thi  view  is  also  grand  from  •  Roe's  Hotel,  a  large  sunmier- 
house  (4-500  gnests)  on  the  N.  verge  of  the  Plain,  looking  out  on  Mt 
Taurus  and  Breakneck,  Cold  Spring,  Cro'  Nest,  and  the  city  of  Newburgh 
under  the  Shawangunk  Mts  4  -  5  M.  S.  of  West  Point  (by  a  good  road 
■which  passes  Cozzen's  Hotel)  is  Fort  Montgomerj^;  and  another  road  runs 
S.  W.  14  M.  to  Turner's  Station,  on  the  Erie  Railway,  passing  through  a 
mgged  and  lake-strewn  region  abounding  in  fish.  A  rough  mt.-road  runs 
N.  to  Cornwall  and  Newburgh. 

Oarriaon'a  is  nearly  opposite  West  Point,  and  is  a  station  on  the  Hudson 
R.  R.  R.  It  is  a  summer  resort  of  much  popularity  (♦  Highland  House, 
$3.50  a  day,  $18  a  week;  Cro/t  House,  $10-15  a  week),  and  has  pleas- 
ant drives  back  among  the  hills.  Lake  Oscawana,  5-6  M.  E.,  is  a  pretty 
mountain-pond,  2  M.  long,  and  is  much  visited  in  summer  (several  large 
boarding-houses).  Over  Garrison's  are  the  N.  and  S.  Redoubt  Mts.,  bear- 
ing the  ruins  of  Revolutionary  fortifications.  In  the  adjacent  forest  are 
the  Glen  Falls;  and  1^  M.  N.  are  the  Indian  Falls.  This  station  com- 
mands a  favorable  view  of  West  Point. 

Beverly,  the  mansion  of  Col.  Beverly  Robinson  of  the  Loyalist  Corps,  is  S.  of 
Garrison's,  and  at  the  foot  of  Sugar-Loaf  Mt.  It  is  still  preserved  in  its  ancient 
quaintuesR,  and  is  memorable  as  having  been  the  head-quarters  of  Arnold  when 
his  conspiracy  was  discovered.  He  was  forced  to  abandon  even  his  wife  and 
child,  and  fled  down  tlie  river  in  a  barge  driven  by  0  oarsmen.    He  gained  the 

firotection  of  the  British  frigate  Vultm-e.    Near  Beverly  is  the  mansion  of  Ham- 
Iton  Fish,  Secretai/  of  State  of  the  U.  S.  since  1869. 

As  the  steamer  bends  to  the  N.  W.  about  West  Point,  on  the  r.  are 
Been  the  rugged  shores  of  Constitution  Island,  with  its  mined  forts, 
dating  from  1775,  and  the  mansion  of  "Woo<l  Crag,"  the  home  of  the 
novelist,  Miss  Susan  Warner.  Beyond  this  point  the  steamer  enters 
MaHlaer's  Rack,  or  Martyrs'  Reach,  a  section  of  the  river  extending  far 
to  the  N.,  and  so  named  because  of  its  trying  adverse  winds.  Coldspring 
(E.  shore)  has  over  3,000  inhabitants,  and  6  churches;  and  near  it  is  the 
West  Point  Foundry,  an  immense  establishment,  which  supplied  much 
artillery  to  the  U.  S.  during  the  Secession  War.  It  is  managed  by  Capt. 
Parrott,  and  makes  the  Parrott  guns,  employing  5-700  men.  N.  of 
Coldspring  is  seen  Undercliff,  the  former  home  of  "  America's  best  lyric 
poet,"  George  P.  Morris  (died  1864).  Above  UndercliflF  is  Mt.  Taurus 
(1,586  ft.  high),  the  "Bull. Hill"  of  Irving's  Legend  of  Dolph  Heyliger. 
It  is  said  to  have  been  named  from  a  certain  wild  bull  that  was  once  the 
terror  of  the  country-side,  until  he  was  hunted  out,  and  broke  his  neck 
on  the  next  hill  (N.),  since  called  Breakneck  Hill  (1,187  ft.  high).  On 
the  W.  bank,  just  above  West  Point,  is  Cro'  Neit  (1,418  ft.  high),  whose 
river-front  is  a  precipice  several  hundred  ft.  high,  called  Kidd's  Plug, 
from  a  tradition  of  the  burial  of  treasures  here  by  Capt.  Kidd :  — 


** 


76      R&uUS, 


CORNWALL. 


**  When  Rudion'i  wave  o'tr  illvery  Mndf 
Wind!  thniuffh  the  hiUi  nlur, 
Old  Cro'  Nf (t  like  n  iiioiiartii  itRndi, 
Crowned  with  a  ilnglo  itar."  Morris. 

Tlio  scene  of  J.  Rodman  Drake's  poem  of  "The  Culprit  Fay"  is 
laid  upon  this  mt.  and  its  neighbor  to  the  N.,  the  picturesque  *  Btorm 
Xing  (1,529  ft.  high).  As  seen  from  the  river  on  the  E.,  the  latter  nit.  is 
Bymmetrically  round,  and  suggested  to  the  Dutch  skippers  a  lump  of 
butter,  whence  they  called  it  the  Botorberg,  afterwai-ds  anglicized  into 
Butter  Hill.  Mr.  N.  P.  Willis  rcchristened  it  Storm  King,  and  the  new 
name  has  become  iixed.  It  is  often  ascended  (with  guides)  from  Corn- 
wall, and  gives  a  view  of  10  counties  in  3  States.  To  the  N.  are  the 
Taghkaniuk  and  Catskill  Mts.,  with  Newburgh  and  the  river- villages  as 
far  as  Crom  Elbow,  26  M.  distant ;  and  to  the  S.  are  the  Cro'  Nest  peaks 
and  the  main  summits  of  the  Highlands. 

Traversing  the  narrow  channels  between  Storm  King  and  Breakneck, 
the  steamboat  soon  passes  Pollopell's  Island,  a  rocky  islet  whence  a 
chevava  de  /rise  was  stretched  to  Plum  Point  in  1776.  To  the  W.  are 
now  seen  the  Shawangunk  Mts.,  stretching  N.  to  the  blue  Catskills;  and 
on  the  N.  E.  are  the  Matteawan  Mts.,  of  which  the  New  Beacon  (a 
signal-station  during  the  Revolution)  is  the  chief,  and  commands  a  grand 
*  view,  extending  even  to  N.  Y.  City.  N.  of  Storm  King  is  Cornwall,  a 
hamlet  among  the  vineyards  of  the  Highland  Terrace.  This  is  the  chief 
summer  resort  on  the  river,  and  has  the  *  Luuien  Park  Hotel  (in  17  acres 
of  gi'ounds),  the  Clark,  Olenridge,  and  Elmer  Houses,  and  many  large 
boarding-houses.  During  the  summer  the  hill-roads  are  traversed  by 
brilliant  equipages,  and  the  river  is  furrowed  by  pleasure-boats.  Over 
5,0(X)  summer  visitors  stop  in  and  about  this  place  every  year.  It  lies  at 
the  outlet  of  Moodua  Creek  (formerly  called  Murderer's  Creek,  but  thus 
euphemized  by  Mr.  Willis).  On  the  N.  E.  of  the  Highland  Terrace  is 
Jdlewild,  formerly  the  home  of  Willis. 

Nathaniel  Parker  Willis  was  bom  at  Portland,  Maine,  in  1807,  and  gradu- 
ated at  Ynle  College  in  1827.  He  trn veiled  in  Euruiie  und  the  East  between  1830 
and  1835,  and  orten  afterwards.  From  1846  to  1807  he  was  joint-editor  of  the 
Home  Journal  (N.  Y.  City),  and  became  famous  as  a  writer  of  liuht  and  graceful 
stories,  essays,  and  letters  on  rural  life  and  foreign  travel.  His  poems  have 
much  sweetness  and  beauty,  and  the  impress  of  his  genius  has  been  set  on  all 
tlie  N.  Highland  district.  Pun;hasing  an  "  idle  wild  "  of  rugged  land  at  the  foot 
of  Storm  King,  he  made  there  a  charming  home,  wliere,  in  1867,  he  died. 

Above  the  decadent  village  of  A«to  Windsor  (near  the  ancient  Morton 
House),  the  steamboat  enters  the  broad  expanse  of  Newburgh  Bay, 
Newbargh  {Orange  Hotel;  U.  S.  Hotel;  the  Pavilion,  a  summer  hotel, 
1  M.  N. )  is  a  busy  city  of  17,327  inhabitants,  with  3  daily  papers,  3  banks, 
an  excellent  school  system,  and  expensive  water- works.  There  are  23 
churches,  several  of  which  are  very  attractive.  The  city  lies  upon  the 
steep  slope  of  the  W.  bank,  and  shows  finely  from  the  river.    The  water* 


NEWBURGH. 


JtauU  8.      77 


\t 


front  is  lined  with  warehouses,  and  t  u  city  has  a  considerable  commerce. 
Newburgh  is  famed  for  being  on  .•  of  the  foremost  cities  in  the  mystery 
of  ice-boat  sailing,  and  also  for  its  professional  oarsmen.  On  a  height 
over  the  place  is  the  large  stone  building  of  the  Theological  Seminary  of 
the  United  Presbyterian  Church,  which  in  1870  reported  2  professors  and 

9  students.  The  more  elegant  part  of  the  city  is  on  the  plateau  above  the 
river,  which  is  reached  by  steep  streets.  The  city  has  some  manufactories 
and  a  considerable  country  trade,  while  immense  quantities  of  coal  are 
brought  here  from  Penn.  by  a  branch  of  the  Erie  Railway  running  up  the 
Quassaic  Valley  to  Oreycourt,  19  M.  distant,  and  are  shipped  to  all  parts 
of  the  Hudson  Valley.  The  Newburgh  and  N.  Y.  R.  R.  runs  to  the  Erie 
Railway  near  Tuner's,  and  the  D.  and  C.  R.  R.  runs  from  the  opposite 
shore  into  New  England.  In  the  S.  part  of  the  city  is  "  Washington's 
Head-quarters,"  an  old  stone  mansion  which  is  now  owned  by  the  State,  is 
preserved  in  its  antique  quaintness,  and  has  a  museum  of  historical  relics, 
artillery,  etc.  (open  to  the  public).  Near  the  house  is  a  mausoleum  over 
the  remains  of  Uzal  Knapp,  the  last  of  Washington's  Life-Ouards,  who 
died  in  1856,  aged  97  years.    The  Secretary  of  War  recently  sent  hither 

10  Rebel,  10  Spanish,  and  10  Mexican  cannon. 

This  mansion  was  built  by  the  Hasbrouclca,  a  Huguenot  family,  in  1760,  and 
became  State  property  in  1850.  In  1782-  83  it  woh  the  head-quarters  of  Washing- 
ton while  tlie  national  anny  lay  in  and  above  the  Highlands,  watching  the  British 
at  New  York.  After  peace  had  been  declared,  in  1783,  the  army  grew  discontented 
on  account  of  not  having  been  paid  for  many  months ;  and  certain  of  its  leaders, 
doubting  the  feasibility  of  a  republic,  offered  to  make  Washington  King  of  Amer- 
ica. The  noble  Virginian  spurned  this  proposal ;  but  the  anonymous  "  New- 
burgh Letters  "  were  circulated  among  the  officers.  Inciting  them  to  assemble  and 
enforce  their  rights  at  the  edge  of  the  sword,  if  necessary.  To  counteract  this 
leaven  of  a  military  despotism,  Washingtpon  convened  tlie  officers  of  the  army  at 
the  Temple  (a  large  building  erected  near  the  Square,  for  the  military  masonic 
and  religious  meetings),  and  delivered  an  earnest  address  to  them.  AfUusting  his 
spectacles  before  the  reading,  he  said,  "  You  see,  gentlemen,  that  I  have  not  only 
grown  gray  but  blind  in  your  service."  The  assembly  was  moved  to  tears,  and 
resolved  unanimously,  "  That  the  officers  of  the  American  army  view  with  abhor- 
rence, and  reiect  with  disdain,  the  infamous  propositions  contained  in  a  late 
anonymous  address  to  the  officers  of  the  army,  and  resent  with  indignation  the 
secret  attempts  of  some  unknown  persons  to  collect  the  officers  together  in  a  man- 
ner totally  subversive  of  all  discipline  and  good  order."  A  short  time  afterward 
the  unpaid  Continental  army  was  peacefully  disbanded  at  Newburgh. 

Hudson,  passing  the  site  of  Newburgh  in  1607,  wrote,  "  It  is  as  beautiful  a  land 
as  one  can  tread  upon :  a  very  pleasant  place  to  build  a  town  on."  It  was  then 
occupied  by  a  warlike  clan  of  the  Minsi  (Delaware)  tribe,  which  was  'defeated  by 
the  Dutch  in  the  war  of  1658-60.  Tlie  clan  was  exterminated  in  1603,  and  in  1709 
Newburgh  was  settled  by  a  colony  of  Lutheran  Gennans,  fleeing  from  Louis 
XIV.  desolation  of  the  Palatinate  of  the  Rhine.  It  was  then  called  "the  Pala- 
tinTParish  of  Quassaic  "  :  but  the  Germans  were  slowly  displaced,  and  in  1752  it 
was  named  *'  the  Parish  of  Newbiu-gh,"  from  a  physical  resemldance  to  Newburgh 
in  Scotland  (on  tlie  river  Tay).  Here  was  born  John  £.  Wool  (In  1788),  who  was 
an  officer  of  the  U.  8.  A.  from  1812  until  his  death,  in  1809.    He  was  made  brig.- 

Sen.  for  valuable  services  in  the  War  of  1812  ;  in  1846,  he  marched  3,000  men  900 
f.  to  Saltillo,  and  planned  the  positions  at  Buena  Vista ;  and  in  the  Secession 
War  he  saved  Fortress  Monroe  by  prompt  action,  and  commanded  the  8th  Corps 
of  tlie  army.  Hete  also  were  bom  T.  S.  Arthur,  the  novelist ;  Commodore  Case, 
of  the  U.  S.  Navy ;  A.  J.  Downing,  the  landscape  gardener;  and  George  luness, 
the  ai'tist. 


78      Route  8. 


FISHKILL. 


FtshMU-on-the-Hudaon  is  opposite  Newbui^gh  (steam-feny),  and  is  « 
pleasant  village  with  about  3,000  inhabitants,  l^  M.  from  the  Landing 
is  Matteawan,  a  populous  factory-village  (near  the  Falls  of  Melsingah 
and  thtt  Rocky  Glen) ;  and  2  M.  to  the  N.  is  a  colony  of  African  Metho< 
dists.  5  M.  N.  E.  is  the  ancient  hamlet  of  Fishkill  {Mansion  House)  ia 
a  valley  near  the  Highlands,  with  its  quaint  Dutch  church  1(built  in  1725) 
and  the  old  English  church  (Trinity),  which  was  the  seat  of  the  N.  Y. 
legislature  in  1776,  and  afterwards  became  an  army  hospital.  Fishkill 
was  founded  before  1690,  and  was  the  chief  depot  of  supplies  for  the  Con« 
tinental  army  in  1777  -  80.  In  this  vicinity  are  laid  the  scenes  of  Cooper's 
novel,  "  The  Spy,"  of  which  Enoch  Crosby,  of  Mass.,  was  the  hero.  The 
S.  Beacon  Hill  is  ascended  from  Fishkill-on-the-Hudson  (with  a  guide), 
and  reveals  a  noble  *view.  The  Matteawan  or  Fishkill  Mts.  extend 
along  the  S.  line  of  the  valley,  and  are  penetrated  by  the  Wiccopee  Pass, 
which  was  held  by  Continental  troops  during  the  Revolution  to  prevent 
the  British  from  flanking  the  fortress  of  West  Point.  2  M.  E.  of  Mattea> 
wan  is  Old  Beacon,  1,470  ft.  high,  ^  M.  ^.  of  which  is  the  Grand  Sachem, 
1,680  ft.  high. 

The  Dutchess  and  Columbia  R.  R.  runs  N.  E.  inrom  the  junction,  1  M.  8.  of  Fish- 
kill, to  Millerton  in  69  M.  (3-3^  hrs.).  It  ascends  the  Fishlcill  Valiey,  passing 
Matteawan  an'i  Glenham,  with  the  nigged  Fishlcill  Mts.  on  the  r.  The  train  next 
crosses  the  picturesque  town  of  £.  Fishkill ;  and  near  the  hamlet  of  Hopewell  a 
short  branch  uiveiges  N.  E.  to  Sylvan  Lake.  Beyond  the  rural  stations  among 
the  rolling  uplands  of  La  Grange,  the  line  passes  Verbank,  in  Union  Vale,  and 
crosses  the  town  of  Washington.  At  Stissing,  this  route  is  intersected  by  the 
Poughkeepsie  and  Eastern  U.  B.;  and  the  road  thence  curves  around,  through 
Pine  Phiins,  to  the  terminus  at  Millerton  (see  page  60). 

2  M.  N.  E.  of  Fishkill-on-the-Hudson  is  the  Verplanck  House,  with  dormer-win- 
dows  and  antique  Uutch  architecture.  At  this  house,  when  it  was  the  Baron 
Steuben's  i  heaa-quar''.ers  (1783),  the  oflicers  of  the  American  army  (then  about  to 
be  disbanded)  organized  the  Society  of  the  Cincinnati,  to  perpetuate  the  memories 
and  iriendships  of  the  Revolutionary  struggle,  "  to  preserve  inviolate  the  rights 
and  liberties  of  human  nature,"  to  jpromote  union  between  the  Str.tes,  and  to 
assist  distressed  officers  and  their  families.  This  patrician  militaiy  order  adopted 
an  elegant  badge  (a  golden  eagle,  suspended  from  a.  blue  and  white  silk  ribbon), 
and  its  meetings  were  for  many  years  attended  by  the  chief  men  of  the  nation. 
The  society  was  foimded  by  Knox,  its  first  president  was  Washington,  and  it  still 
exists  among  the  gentlemen  of  the  old  school. 

The  steamboat  now  enters  the  Long  Beach  (from  Newburgh  to  Crom 
Elbow),  and  soon  passes,  on  the  W  ,  opposite  Low  Point,  a  rocky  plat- 
forrti  which  was  named*" the  Devil's  Dance-Chamber"  by  Hendrick 
Hudson,  after  seeing  there  a  midnight  pow-wow  of  painted  Indians. 

But  Knickerbocker  virving),  describing  Gov.  Stuyvesant's  voyage,  says,  "  Even 
now  I  have  it  on  the  point  of  my  pen  to  relate  how  his  crew  was  most  horribly 
frightened,  on  going  on  shore  alcove  the  Highlands,  by  a  gang  of  merry,  roister- 
ing devils,  frisking  and  curvetting  on  a  huge  flat  rock  which  projected  into  the 
river,  and  which  is  called  the  Duyvell'a  Dans-Kamer  to  this  very  day." 

1  The  Baron  Steuben,  an  officer  of  Frederick  the  Qreat,  came  to  America  in  1777,  was 
made  a  Mai.-Uen.,  and  introduced  thorough  diicipline  into  the  army.  He  was  one  oi  the 
mostuiefui  offlceraof  the  forcei,  and  alter  1783  he  retired  to  Steubenville,  an  crtate  of 
16,000  acres,  given  hhn  by  M.  Y.  State,  where  he  died,  in  17M. 


POUGHKEEPSIE. 


Haute  8.      79 


ff 


The  course  is  now  to  the  N.  E.,  through  a  less  interesting  country, 
rich,  however,  in  agricultural  wealth.  A^ew  Hamburgh  (E.  bank)  is  at 
the  mouth  of  Wappinger's  Creek,  and  has  a  steam-ferry  to  Marlborough; 
a  few  M.  N.  of  which  is  Milton,  standing  in  a  rocky  gorge  opr-ning  on  the 
river,  and  coiinected  with  the  E.  shore  by  a  ferry.  These  'J  hamlets  are 
in  a  rich  rural  town  (famed  for  its  immense  crops  of  raspberries),  on 
whose  W.  border  are  the  Marlborough  Mts. 

PoQglikeepsie  (*  Morgan  House,  $  3  a  day)  is  a  city  of  over  20,000 
inhabitants,  with  6  banks,  3  daily  and  3  weekly  newspapers,  and  24 
churches.  The  larger  part  of  the  city  is  built  on  a  plateau  nearly  200  ft. 
above  the  river,  back  of  which  are  high  hills.  On  this  commanding  site 
is  laid  the  ground-plan  of  a  great  city,  with  pleasantly  shaded  streets,  of 
which  Main  St.  is  1^  M.  long.  The  manufacturing  interests  are  exten- 
sive and  varied,  and  a  lucrative  trade  is  carried  on  with  the  adjacent  rural 
towns  of  Dutchess  County.  But  Poughkeepsie  is  chiefly  famous  as  an 
academic  city,  and  is  the  seat  of  Vassar  College,  the  Poughkeepsie 
Female  Academy,  the  Poughkeepsie  Collegiate  Institute,  the  Military 
Institute,  Riveryiew  Military  Academy,  Cottage  Hill  Seminary,  East- 
man's National  Business  College,  and  St.  Peter's  Academies.  There  is  a 
proudly  conspicuous  building,  in  the  style  of  the  Parthenon,  overlooking 
2,500  sq.  M.  of  coimtry  from  the  summit  of  College  Hill,  600  ft.  high, 
and  I  M.  E.  of  the  city.  The  CoUingwood  Opera-House  has  an  elegant 
hall;  the  mansion  of  Mayor  Eastman  is  one  of  the  finest  on  the  Hudson ; 
and  the  Memorial  Fountain,  erected  "  To  the  Patriot  Dead  of  Dutchess 
County,"  is  worthy  of  notice.  Near  the  river  is  the  manufactory  of  the 
Buckeye  Mowers.  2  M.  N.  of  the  city,  on  an  eminence  which  overlooks 
the  Hudson,  are  the  immense  and  imposing  buildings  of  the  *  Hudson 
Biver  State  Hospital  for  the  Insane,.  It  has  300  acres  of  land  connected, 
and  was  built  in  1867-71,  at  a  cost  of  $7-800,000.  The  Poughkeepsie 
and  Eastern  R.  R.  runs  N.  E.  43  M.,  across  Dutchess  County,  to  Miller- 
ton  (see  page  60),  where  it  connects  for  Hartford  and  the  E. 

*  Vassar  College  is  about  2  M.  E.  of  Poughkeepsie  (horse-cars),  in  a 
quiet  rural  vicinage.  The  main  building  is  500  ft.  long,  with  wings  and 
pavilions,  and  is  modelled  after  the  Tuileries  palace.  It  is  5  stories  (92 
ft.)  high,  has  242  bedrooms  and  100  parlors,  and  is  divided  by  5  fire-proof 
walls.  The  porter's  lodge,  gymnasium,  and  other  structures  in  the  park 
are  of  harmonious  architecture.  The  college  was  founded  in  1861  by 
Matthew  Vassar,  a  wealthy  Poughkeepsie  brewer,  who  endowed  it  with 
$400,000,  and  made  subsequent  munificent  gifts.  It  is  the  foremost 
college  for  women  in  the  world,  and  has  about  400  students. 

There  is  a  large  equatorial  reflractor  in  the  Observatory,  and  the  mineral  cabinets 
are  well  supplied.  The  collection  of  American  birds  is  the  finest  in  the  world. 
The  ^Art  Gallery  (3d  story)  contains  a  bust  and  picture  of  Vassar,  ancient  weapons 


80      JtouU  8. 


VASSAB  COLLEGE. 


and  armor,  the  halberd  of  Francis  I.,  and  1,000  volumes  on  art.  Here  is  the  heat 
collection  of  water-colors  in  America,  including  187  firitish  views  (castles,  cathe- 
drals, etc.X  by  Pngin,  Ja  Keux,  Ma4;kenzie,  and  otliers ;  pictures  of  Normandy, 
Venice,  and  Rome ;  Hart's  White  Mt.  slvetclies ;  and  several  by  Turner,  one  of 
which  —  tlie  Pass  of  St.  Beniard  —  includes  a  dead  body  in  tlie  snow  by 
Stothart,  and  a  dog  by  Landseer.  There  are  133  oil-paintings,  including  ifunrise 
on  Bernese  Alps,  iShrine  of  Shaltespeare,  Lake  Maggiore,  and  the  Roman  Cam- 
pagna,  by  Gifford;  Summer  in  8.  America,  Autunui  in  N.  America,  and  Evening 
in  Vermont,  by  Church;  Chocorua,  Lancaster  (N.  H.),  Sunset  on  Mole  Mt.,  the 
Upper  Conn.,  Bethel  (Me.),  and  Mt.  Washington,  Slutttuck;  Nantaslcet  Beach  and 
Henr  Coiiasset,  Gay  ;  Home  Again  and  N.  Y.  Marlcet  Scene,  Gignoux ;  Eveniiig  at 
Paestum,  Coast  of  Sicily,  and  Genevieve,  Cropsey ;  Lalve  George,  Casilear;  and 
pictures  by  Boughton,  Wust,  Huntington,  Beard,  Champney,  Kensett,  Bellows, 
Richards,  Weir,  Martin,  Mount,  McEntee,  Inness.  B.  West,  D.  Willcie,  and  others. 

In  tliis  city  resides  A.  J.  Davis  (sometimes  called  "Tlie  Poughkeepsie  Seer"X 
one  of  the  founders  and  the  most  al)le  writer  of  the  sect  of  the  Spiritualists  ;  and 
on  the  beautiful  estate  of  Locust  Grove,  2  M.  S.,  lived  Prof.  S.  F.  B.  Morse,  one  of 
the  originators  of  the  electric  telegraph.  Alter  et^ying  the  honors  and  emolu- 
ments of  tlie  principal  nations  of  Christendom,  he  died  in  1872  at  the  age  of  81. 
1  M.  below  Poughkeepsie  is  the  Livingston  mansion,  a  stately  house  amid  ancient 
trees  overlooking  the  Hudson.  It  was  built  by  Henry  Livingston  in  1714,  and 
was  cannonaded  by  a  British  frigate  in  1777.  Poughkeepsie  was  the  birthplace 
of  J.  H.  Livingston.  D.  !>.,  18  yrs.  President  of  the  College  at  New  Brunswick  ; 
Fitzhugh  Ludlow,  the  magazinist ;  and  Elijah  Hedding,  the  famous  bishop  of  the 
Methodist  Church.  Late  in  1873  there  was  laid  at  tliis  point,  with  imposing  cere- 
monies, tlie  comer-stone  of  a  new  railroad  bridge  across  the  Hudson.  The  bridge 
is  to  be  1  M.  long  and  194  ft.  above  the  water,  M'ith  5  spans  of  500  ft.  each  over 
the  channel.  It  is  to  cost  9  2,600,000,  and  is  meant  to  aftbrd  direct  and  unbroken: 
i*ailroad  communication  between  the  New  England  coast  and  the  Peun.  coal- 
region  and  Western  grain-fields. 

Poughkeepsie  is  spelt  in  42  different  ways  on  the  old  n.  '^ords  and  maps.  It  is 
derived  trom  the  Mohegan  Apo-keep-sinck  (["  safe  harbor"),  which  commemorates 
a  legendary  achievement  of  the  ancient  Indian  wars.  A  young  chief  of  the  Pequots 
and  his  betrothed  escai)ed  from  perilous  captivities  among  the  Delawares  and 
Hurons,  and  fled  by  niglit  to  the  bay  before  the  present  site  of  the  city,  where 
they  moored  their  canoe  and,  with  the  help  of  gathering  fliends,  beat  ofT  the 
tierce  pursuers.  It  was  settled  by  the  Dutch  about  1698,  about  the  mouth  of  the 
Winnt^kee  Creek,  which  they  named  the  Fall  Kill.  Its  N.  promontory  was  called 
Slonge  Klippe  ("Adder  Cliff"),  from  the  many  snakes  found  there;  and  the  far- 
viewing  8.  point  was  Call  Rock,  because  ft-om  thence  the  villagers  were  accustomed 
to  hail  passing  vessels.  2  sessions  of  the  State  legislature  were  held  here  during 
the  troublous  times  of  the  triple  invasion  of  1777-78  :  and  the  Federal  Constitu- 
tion was  ratified  by  the  State  Convention  here  assembled  in  1788. 

New  Paltz  Landing  is  opposite  Poughkeepsie  (steam-ferry) ;  and  6  M. 
above  is  the  handsome  village  of  Hyde  Park,  with  its  4  churches,  situated 
on  a  hill  ^  M.  from  the  K  bank  of  the  river  (which  is  here  valuable  for  its 
sturgeon-fisheries).  It  was  named  in  honor  of  Sir  Edward  Hyde,  an  early- 
colonial  governor  of  N.  Y.,  by  his  private  secretary,  who  bought  the  land 
on  which  it  was  founded.  Near  this  point  the  Hudson  bends  and  nar- 
rows between  high  rocky  bluffs.  This  curve  was  called  by  the  Dutch 
Krom  Elleboge  (crooked  elbow),  and  still  retains  the  name  of  Crom  Elbow. 
1  M.  above  is  Placentia,  the  former  home  of  James  K.  Paulding,  the  es- 
sayist, satirist,  and  friend  of  Irving,  who  was  Secretary  of  the  U.  S.  Navy, 
1839-41.  Opposite  is  the  great  Pell  farm,  famous  for  its  apples  (many 
of  which  are  sent  to  Europe).  The  river-banks  are  now  and  hereafter  low 
and  uninteresting,  but  an  air  of  rich  rural  peace  pervades  the  country* 


i 


OVERLOOK  MT.   HOUSE. 


RmtU  8.      81 


side,  and  stately  old  mansions  and  ueat  modern  villas  are  seen  on  either 
hand.  Passing  Staatsburg  and  Esopus  Island  and  Meadows  (on  and  near 
the  E.  sliore)  the  majestic  blue  peaks  of  the  Catskills  ara  seen  drawing 
nearer  on  the  N.  W.  Beyond  Port  Ewen  is  Bondout  (Mansion  House), 
at  the  mouth  of  Rondout  Creek  and  the  N.  E.  terminus  of  the  Delaware 
and  Hudson  Canal.  These  villaget  have  large  foreign  populations  engaged 
in  the  manufacture  of  cement  aid  the  trans  shipment  of  coal,  wliicli  is 
brought  up  over  the  canal  in  immense  quantities,  and  is  thence  dis- 
tributed over  the  upper  Hudson  valley.  Kingston  is  an  ancient  vil- 
lage on  an  elevated  plain  1^  M.  from  Rondout  (horse-cars).  It  is  the 
capital  of  Ulster  County,  and  has  6,315  iuhabitantsj,  4  newspapers,  and 
3  banks. 

This  site  ^as  settled  by  the  Dutch  in  1063,  and  was  named  Wiltwyck.  A  redoubt 
was  built  near  Rondoui;  Creek,  but  the  place  was  attacked  by  the  Esopus  Indians 
soo'i  riiter,  and  65  pei'sons  were  killed  or  captured.  The  Indians  besieged  the 
redoubt  until  it  was  relieved  by  Dutch  troops  from  N.  Y.  The  soldiers  then  made 
a  summer  campaign  among  the  hill  fastnesses,  destroyed  the  Indian  forts  and 
magazines,  killed  many  warriors,  and  forced  the  tribe  to  sue  for  peace.  Soon 
afterwards  the  colony  was  augmented  by  a  company  of  Huguenots.  In  1777  the 
N.  Y.  legislature  met  here  and  framed  the  State  Constitution  ;  and  in  Octol>er  of 
that  year  Sir  James  Wallace,  with  a  flying  squadron  of  light  frigates,  ascended 
the  Hudson  and  anchored  off  the  nioutli  of  Rondout  Creek.  3,600  British  soldiers 
landed  and  marched  on  Kingston,  then  a  large  and  wealthy  place.  There  were 
no  troops  there,  and  the  invadera  burnt  the  entire  village.  While  their  homes 
were  in  flames  the  fugitive  citizens  tried  and  hung  a  spy,  who  had  been  seen  to 
cast  something  into  his  mouth  when  he  was  captured.  A  strung  emetic  caused 
him  to  throw  up  a  hollow  silver  bullet,  in  which  was  a  despatch  from  Sir  Henry 
Clinton  to  Gen.  Burgoyne. 

The  IFalkill  Valley  R.  R.  runs  S.  W.  from  Rondout  to  Goshen  (en  the  Erie  Railway) 
in  102  M.  The  N.  V.,  Kingston,  and  Syracuse  R.  R.  is  now  finished  from  Rondout 
to  Stamford  (74  M.  ;  trains  in  4^-5  hrs.  ;  fare,  $2.70).  The  train  passes  from 
Rondout  to  Kinfrstoa  and  crosses  Esopus  Creek.  From  W.  Hurley  stotion  stages 
run  N.  to  the  *  Overlook  Mt*  House  (500  guests),  which  is  situated  on  one  of 
the  Catskill  Mts.,  and  commands  an  Immense  view.  Lake  View  Rock  overlooks 
the  lonely  tarn  called  Shue's  Lake  ;  and  Grant  Rock  is  a  favorite  view-point,  from 
which  are  seen  the  Hudson  and  Esopus  Valleys,  the  Berkshire  Hills,  and  the 
Green  Mts.  The  Pilgrim's  Pass,  Overlook  Roclc,  Poet's  Glen,  Pulpit  Rock,  and 
tlie  Lovers'  Retreat  ai*e  places  of  intertst  in  the  vicinity.  Beyond  W.  Hurley  the 
line  crosses  the  rugged  town  >f  Olive,  and  ascends  the  Esopus  Valley  to  Phcenicia, 
whence  stages  run  N.  E.  into  the  lofty  mountain-town  of  Hunter.  Traversing 
the  defiles  of  Shandaken,  Dean's  Comers  is  reached,  fi>om  which  daily  stages  run 
down  the  Delaware  Valley  to  Margaretville,  Andes,  and  Delhi.  Passing  several 
mountain-hamlets  on  the  great  W.  plateau  of  the  Catskills,  the  train  reaches 
Moresville,  whence  stages  ascend  the  mts.  to  Gillx)a,  Prattsville,  and  Windham. 
(The  Overlook  Mt  House  was  burnt  in  1875,  but  is  to  be  rebuilt) 

On  the  E.  bank  of  the  Hudson  is  WUdercliff,  the  former  home  of  a 
Maryland  Episcopalian,  who  entered  the  first  Methodist  movement, 
preached  widely,  converted  and  married  Chancellor  Livingston's  sister, 
and  built  this  mansion  (afterward  a  famous  Methodist  head-quarters)  in 
1799.  1  M.  above  Wildercliff  is  JSllerslie,  the  estate  of  the  Hon.  Wm. 
Kelly,  with  a  river-front  of  1^  M.,  a  finely  cultivated  park,  and  a  villa 
200  ft.  above  the  river.  Opposite  Rondout  (steam-ferry)  is  Rhinebeck-on- 
the-Hudson  (Rhine  Cliff  Hinuie  j  Exchange),  near  which,  ou  a  high  bluff, 


82      JtouU  8. 


CLERMONT. 


.  Is  the  fortress-mansion  of  the  Beekman  family,  now  nearly  200  years  old. 
2  M.  inland  is  Ehinebeck,  which  was  founded  by  Wm.  Beekman  in  1647| 
and  was  named  for  himself  and  the  river  of  his  home-land  (Rhine-Beek). 
Above  Rhinebeck  is  Rokeby,  the  estate  of  Wm.  B.  Astor.  The  mansion 
was  built  by  his  father-in-law,  John  Armstrong,  an  officer  in  the  Conti- 
nental army,  1775  -  83 ;  author  of  the  "  Newburgh  Letters  ";  Sec.  of  State 
of  Penn.  (1784-85) ;  U.  8.  Senator  from  N.  Y.  (1800-2  and  1803-4) ; 
Minister  to  France  (1804  - 10) ;  and  Sec.  of  War  (1813  - 14).  He  di6d  at 
Rokeby  in  1843.  Barry  town  is  a  river-side  hamlet,  from  which  a  road 
runs  E.  to  Red  Hook,  a  quiet  and  sequestered  old  Dutch  village.  Above 
Barrytown  is  Montgomery  PUice,  an  elegant  villa  in  a  costly  park,  birilt 
by  the  widovr  of  Geu.  Montgomery,  who  fell  in  the  assault  on  Quebec  in 
1775.  She  was  a  Livingston,  and  died  after  50  years  of  widowhood,  leav- 
ing the  estate  to  Edward  of  that  ilk,  M.  C.  from  N.  Y.,  1795-1801;  U. 
3.  Dist. -Attorney,  1801  -3  ;  M.  C.  from  Louisiana,  1823-29;  U.  S.  Sena- 
tor, 1829-31;  Sec.  of  State,  1831-33  ;  Minister  to  France,  1833-35  ; 
author  of  the  Penal  Code  of  Louisiana  ;  and  member  of  the  Academy  of 
France.  N.  of  Montgomery  Place  is  Annandale,  the  villa  of  John  Bard, 
who  has  also  erected  and  endowed  on  his  estate  the  fine  English  Gothio 
building  of  St.  Stephon'f  College,  and  the  graceful  stone  Church  of  the 
Holy  Innocents.  The  college  is  for  educating  young  men  for  the  Episco- 
pal ministry,  and  has  7  instructors  and  60-70  students.  2  M.  above 
Barrytown,  near  the  E.  shore,  is  Cruger's  Island,  on  whose  S.  end  stands 
an  ancient  Italian  ruin,  which  was  imported  from  the  Mediterranean  at 
great  expense.  Nef.r  by  is  the  villa  of  the  owner  of  the  island.  5  M. 
above  Annandale  is  Tivoli^  near  the  old  De  Peyster  mansion,  whose  owner 
(a  Livingston)  saved  it  from  the  British  torch  in  1777,  by  a  liberal  dispen- 
sation of  choice  wines  from  his  cellar.  To  the  E.  is  the  antiquated  village 
of  Upper  Red  Hook ;  and  1  M.  N.  is  Madalin-ou-Hudson.  Opposite  Tivoli 
(steam-ferry)  is  Saugertiea,  a  factory-village  of  3,731  inhabitants,  at  the 
mouth  of  Eaopus  Cresn:  (100  M.  from  New  York),  which  flows  from  the 
S.  through  scenes  of  placid  beauty.  Saugerties  is  from  the  Dutch  Zaeger'a 
Kill  (Sawyer's  Creek,  from  an  ancient  saw-mill  here).  The  impending 
peaks  of  the  Catskills  are  now  seen  in  the  near  W.  2  M.  above  Sauger- 
ties (W.  shore)  is  Maiden,  the  head-quarters  of  the  Bigelow  Blue'  Stone 
Company,  which  employs  3,500  men  and  35  vessels,  and  delivers  annually 
to  the  cities  170- 200,000  tons  of  flagging-stone,  valued  at  $1,500,000. 
Nearly  opposite  Maiden  is  Clermont^  which  was  founded  by  Chancellor 
Livingston. 

Robert  Livingston,  a  Scottish  gentleman  of  the  family  of  the  Earls  of  Lhilithgov^ 
came  to  America  in  1672,  and  married  a  lady  of  the  Schuyler  family,  the  widow  of 
a  Van  Rensselaer.  He  lived  at  Albany,  and  bought  of  the  Indians  great  tracts  on 
the  Hudson,  which  were  consolidated  in  1710  by  the  royal  governor  into  a  manorial 
estate  of  162,000  acres.    He  erected  a  mansion  near  the  present  Linlithgo,  and 


HUDSON. 


JlouUS*      83 


his  son  built  the  lower  manor-house  at  Clermont.  The  third  in  the  line  was 
Robert  R.  Livingston,  born  1747,  a  signer  of  the  Declaration  of  Inde^iendence ; 
M.  C,  1776-77  and  1770-81 ;  Sec.  of  Foreign  Affairs,  1781  -83  ;  Clianccllor  of  N.  Y. 
State,  1777-1801  ;  and  Minister  to  France,  1801-4  (itrocming  tlio  cession  of 
Louisiana).  He  introduced  ttie  merino  sheep  into  America,  and  was  early  Inter* 
ested  in  steam  navigation.  In  1797  lie  and  Nesbit  bnilt  a  small  steamer  at  Tivoli, 
but  it  would  not  work,  althousli  Brunei  was  its  engineer.  Whi'.o  at  Paris  (where 
Napoleon  presented  him  with  his  miniature  an-^  a  gold  snuff-box)  he  met  Robert 
Fulton,  and  in  August,  1807,  tliese  2  gentle  .x,u  had  a  steamboat  built  at  New 
Yorlc.  It  was  named  the  Clermont,  and  was  popularly  known  as  Fulton's  Folly  ; 
bnt  the  derision  was  changed  to  amazement  and  applause  when  she  swung  out 
from  her  dock  and  ascended  to  Albany  against  a  head  wind  in  32  hours.  In  1787 
Jolm  Fitch  built  and  worked  a  steamboat  at  Piiilndelphia  ;  and  in  1789  one  had 
been  operated  on  tlie  Clyde  (near  Glasgow),  but  both  inventors  had  given  up  the 
idea  of  tlie  feasibility  ttt  steam  navigation.  In  1777  a  raiding  party  from  the 
British  army  at  Kingston  was  sent  up  and  destroyed  the  Clermont  manor-houses, 
but  they  were  soon  rebuilt  by  the  family. 

Passing  N.  between  the  high  bluffs  that  shelter  the  old  Palatine  villages 
of  East  and  West  (Tamp,  the  noble  *  Catskills  are  seen  on  the  1.  and  the 
lofty  Taghkanick  Mts.  are  in  the  remote  K  The  Catskill  Mountain 
House  is  seen  far  up  on  South  Mt.,  as  the  steamboat  passes  Catskill  land- 
ing. (The  Catskill  Mts.,  see  Route  9.)  The  Prospect  Park  Hotel  is  on 
the  1. ;  and  on  the  E.  is  the  picturesque  villa  of  F.  £.  Church,  the  artist, 
Vfho  is  famous  for  his  landscapes  painted  among  the  Andes. 

Hudson  {Worth  Hottse,  $3  a  day,  on  Warren  St.;  Waldron  Hoiue)^ 
the  capital  of  Columbia  County,  is  finely  situated  on  a  sharply  defined 
plateau  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Hudson  and  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation. 
It  is  made  a  promontory  by  the  bro^  and  shallow  N.  and  S.  Bays. 
Warren  St.  is  the  principal  thoroughfare,  and  extends  IJ^  M.  from  the 
Promenade  —  a  small  park  on  the  crest  of  the  bluff  near  the  business 
part  of  the  city,  and  overlooking  the  river  for  a  great  distance  and  the 
defiles  of  the  Catskills  and  Helderbergs  (10-12  M.  distant)  — to  Prospect 
HUl,  a  high  rounded  eminence  500  ft.  above  the  river.  Hudson  has  8,615 
inhabitants,-  with  3  banks,  2  daily  and  4  weekly  papers,  13  churches,  a; 
(jray  Nunnery  with  250  pupils,  7  reputable  private  schools,  and  2  public 
libraries.  The  Court  House  has  a  marble  Ionic  front;  and  near  it  is 
Christ  CJhurch,  a  tall  Gothic  structure  of  brown-stone.  The  Presbyterian 
church  on  Warren  St.  has  a  massive  Saxon  tower ;  and  the  Hudson  Acad- 
emy is  on  Academy  Hill.  A  short,  distance  S.  of  Hudson  is  ML  Merino, 
from  which  may  be  seen  the  Highlands,  Helderbergs,  Shawangunks, 
Matteawans,  Catskills,  Taghkanicks,  the  Green  Mts.,  the  Luzerne  Mts. 
at  Lake  George,  and  many  leagues  of  the  Hudson.  4  M.  N.  E.  of  Hudson, 
in  the  Claverack  Valley,  are  the  Colnmhin  Springs  (Spring  House),  situ- 
ated amid  pleasant  rural  scenery.  The  Hudson  and  Chatham  Branch  R. 
R.  runs  from  Hudson  to  Chatham  Four  Comers  (see  page  f  1),  17  M.  N. 
K  This  line  passes  (4  M.  S.  E.  of  Hudson)  the  hamlet  of  Claverack^ 
the  seat  of  the  Hudson  River  Institute  (5-600  pitpils),  which  is  situated 
on  a  far-viewing  hill,  and  is  used  in  summer  as  a  boarding-houstt* 


84      JtmUeS, 


ATHENS. 


\ 


1 1 
I 


In  1788  a  nmnber  of  merchants  and  lea-offlcen  of  Providence  and  Kantnelcet, 
daring  the  decadence  of  commerce  which  followed  the  Revolution,  resolved  to 
emigrate  to  the  upper  Hudson  country.  They  fni-nied  an  association  and  sent  out 
a  committee,  who  examined  vurious  places  on  the  river,  and  Anally  chose  and 

{urchased  the  present  site  of  Hudson  (so  named  in  1784).  It  was  made  a  city  in 
785  :  in  1800  it  had  4,048  inhabitants  ;  and  in  1806  it  became  the  county-seat. 
The  immigration  fh>m  Nantnclcet  was  x-ery  large,  and  as  a  consequence,  in  1786 
Hudson  owned  25  vessels  (with  more  tonnage  thnn  N.  Y.  City  then  had).  In  1790 
it  became  a  port  of  ehtrv,  and  2,800  laden  "'.oighs  have  entered  the  city,  and  15 
freighted  vessels  have  cleared  in  a  single  day.  6  vessels  were  kept  in  the  8.  At- 
lantic seal-fishery  ;  others  were  in  the  whale-fishery,  and  in  1797  the  American 
Hero  brouffht  here  Arom  the  Pacific  the  largest  cargo  of  sperm  oil  that  had  ever 
entered  a  U.  8.  poi-t.  The  action  of  the  Napoleonic  wars  and  the  embargo  swept 
away  the  Hudson  fleet,  and  produced  great  distress  in  the  city.  A  well-sustained 
attempt  to  revive  the  whale-flshery  resulted  in  a  fleet  of  14  ships  owned  and 
equipped  here ;  but  the  last  one  was  sold  in  1845,  and  since  that  time  Hudson  has 
been  called  "  a  finished  city."  At  present  it  is  the  seat  of  extensive  manufactures, 
which  include  3  blast  furnaces  (bv  the  river-side),  a  steam  Are-engine  factory, 
paper  car-wheel  works,  R.  R.  repair-shops,  carriage  factories,  etc.  The  Hudson 
aiul  Boston  R.  R.  runs  E.  to  Chatham ;  and  a  daily  line  of  steamers  descends  the 
river  to  N.  Y.  Hudson  was  the  birthplace  of  Wm.  J.  Worth  (in  1794),  an  officer 
of'the  War  of  1812  ;  commandant  at  West  Point,  1820  -  8  ;  general-in-chief  of  the 
forces  in  the  Floilda  War  (1840  -  42) ;  and  a  leading  officer  in  the  Mexican  War 
(1846  -48).  He  received  4  swords  of  honor.  "  Brave,  chivalrous,  and  a  good  tacti- 
cian, his  manners  were  popular,  and  his  presence  imposing."  Here  were  also 
born  B.  M.  Norman  and  Alice  B.  Haven,  autliors ;  Judge  J.  W.  Edmonds,  the 
Spiritualist  polemic  ;  and  F.  W.  Edmonds,  .the  artist. 

Opposite  Hudson  (steam-ferry  hourly)  is  Atheus  (Roi^na  House),  with 
an  immense  terminal  freight-depot  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  This 
town  exports  much  hay,  brick,  lime,  and  ice,  and  is  bounded  on  the  W. 
by  the  rugged  Potick  Hills.  Beyond  the  Four  Mile  Pojbiit  lighthouse  is 
Coxaackie  (from  the  Iroquois  Kuxakee,  or  ''Cut  Banks"),  a  long  and 
rambling  village  on  the  W.  shore  opposite  the  headland  of  Newtown 
Hook,  and  famous  for  its  shad-fisheries.  Coxsackie  has  6  churches,  a 
daily  paper,  and  several  factories. 

Stuyvesant  Landing  (E.  shore)  is  5  M.  from  the  ancient  Dutch  inland  hamlet  of 
Kinderhook  (a  Dutch  word  meaning  "  Children's  Point,"  and  said  to  have  been 
given  by  Hendrick  Hudson  on  seeing  crowds  of  Indian  children  watching  him 
from  the  banks).  Martin  Van  Buren,  8th  President  of  the  U.-8.,  was  bom  at 
Kinderhook  in  1782.  He  was  Gov.  of  N.  Y.  in  1828;  Sec.  of  8tate.  1829-81 ; 
Vice-Pres.,  1833-87  :  and  President,  1837-41.  In  1841  and  1848  he  was  defeated 
in  the  Itesidential  contests ;  and  he  died  in  1862,  having  siient  the  evening  of 
life  on  his  estate  of  Lindenwold,  at  Kinderhook.  He  opposed  slavery,  and  ad- 
vocated the  integrity  of  the  Republic. 

New  Baltimore  is  opposite  the  middle  of  Schodack  Island,  which  is  3 
M.  long  and  is  covered  with  broom-corn.  Here  begin  the  national  dikes 
for  the  improvement  of  navigation.  Above  New  Baltimore  (W.  bank)  is 
Beeren  Island,  on  whose  rocky  summit  once  stood  the  castle  of  Rensse- 
laerstein,  pertaining  to  Killian  Van  Renssvlaer,  the  Patroon  of  Albany, 
and  erected  in  1643.  The  counties  of  Columbia,  Rensselaer,  Albany,  and 
Greene  comer  on  this  island.  The  steamboat  next  passes  the  hamlets  of 
Coe]rmans.(W.)  and  Schodack  (E.),  and  approaches  Castleton.  Hudson 
anchored  on  this  reach  in  1609. 


ALBANY. 


JtouU  8,      85 


'*  One  day  more  wafts  him  np  between  Schodaek  and  Cattleton ;  and  here  he 
landed  and  jmiised  a  iltiy  with  the  natives,  greeted  with  all  sortti  of  barbamiis 
hoHpitality  ;  the  land  '  the  finest  for  cultivation  he  ever  set  foot  on ' ;  the  natives 
so  kind  and  gentle,  that  wlien  they  found  he  would  not  remain  with  them  over 
night,  and  feared  that  he  lelt  them  — itoor  children  of  nature  !  — because  he  was 
afVnid  of  their  weaiN»is— he  whose  quarter-denl<  was  heavy  with  ordnance!  — 
thpy  brol<e  tlieir  arrows  in  piet  es,  and  threw  them  in  the  tire."  (Edward  Eveb* 
rrr.)  Schodaek  is  from  Is-cho-dii,  "a  fire-plain,"  and  was  the  council-ground  of 
the  Moheuans.  Here  their  great  Saclieni  Acpgin  sold  his  dominions  on  the  B. 
bank  of  tne  Hudson  to  Killian  Van  Rensselaer  (in  1680).  The  Mohegans  origi- 
nally  occupied  the  E.  bank  of  the  Hudson  fh)m  Oermantown  to  its  head-waters, 
and  the  W.  bank  flrom  Cohoes  to  Catslcill.  They  suffered  flrom  the  attacks  of  tlie 
Mohawks  and  the  earlv  encroachments  of  the  Dutch,  and  moved  E.  into  Massa- 
chusetts, and  afterwards  went  to  Wisconsin. 

The  Helderberg  Mts.  are  seen  on  the  1.  as  the  steamer  passes  StaatA 
Island  (with  the  Staats  mansion,  about  200  years  old),  the  Overslaugh 
bar,  and  the  costly  stone  dikes  built  by  the  U.  S.  government  to  improve 
the  navigation  at  this  point.  The  immense  Catholic  Academy  of  {he 
Sacred  Heart  is  seen  on  the  I.,  on  the  hills  over  Kenwood,  at  the  mouth 
of  Norman's  Kill  (the  Indian  Tatocuentha,  "place  of  many  dead") ;  and 
the  populous  heights  of  Albany  draw  near,  crowned  by  the  Capitol,  the 
Cathedral,  and  the  City  Hall. 


and 


Albany. 

Hotels*  — *Delavan  House,  on  Broadway,  near  the  B.  R.  station,  $4.50  a 
day:  *  Congress  HnM,  near  the  Capitol;  *8tanwix  Hall,'  alongside  the  stotion, 
fhmting  Broadway,  ;ii'  H  a  day ;  American  ;  City. 

BeadinB-Ilooins.~The  *Utate  Library,  at  the  Capitol ;  the  Toung  Men's 
Association,  on  8.  Pearl  St. ;  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  40  State  St.,  near  Broadway. 

Borae-Cars*  —  On  State  St.,  Washington  Ave.,  and  the  Bower}'  to  W.  Al- 
bany :  on  Pearl  St.  S.  to  Kenwood ;  fnnn  S.  Ferry  St.,  along  Broadway,  to  W. 
Troy,  7\  M.    Ferry-boattt  run  to  Greenbush. 

Kallroada.  —  The  N.  Y.  Central  and  Hudson  River,  to  New  York,  142  M. ; 
to  Biitt'alo,  298  M.;  the  Boston  and  Albany,  to  Boston,  201  M.  (Osgood's  New 
England,  Routes  21  and  22) ;  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga,  to  Rutland,  94  M. ; 
the  Albany  and  Susquehanna,  to  Bingliampton,  142  M.  Trains  on  the  R.  and  8. 
and  the  N.  Y.  Central  lines  leave  for  Troy  almost  half-hourly  during  the  day. 

BteamboatB  leave  Albany  for  the  Hudson  River  ports  and  ^.  Y.  City  morn- 
ing and  evening  during  the  seastm  of  navigation. 

Albant,  the  capital  of  the  State  of  New  York,  occupies  a  picturesque 
and  commanding  position  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Hudson  River,  144  M. 
from  N.  Y.  City.  It  has  about  80,000  inhabitants,  62  churches,  9  banks 
and  6  savings-banks,  8  daily  papers,  and  17  masonic  societies.  The  city 
has  many  manufactories ;  and  its  commerce  is  large  and  lucrative,  by 
reason  of  the  convergence  of  important  railroad  and  canal  systems  he  *e 
at  tide- water.  Vast  quantities  of  Western  produce  pass  to  and  through 
Albany  by  means  of  the  Eiie  Canal,  which  has  here  a  great  terminal 
basin,  shielded  by  a  pier  80  ft.  wide  and  4,300  ft.  long.  The  river  is 
spanned  by  a  railroad-bridge  of  stone  and  iron,  erected  at  a  cost  of 
$1,150,000.  The  city  receives  its  water-supply  from  Rensselaer  Lake 
(5  M.  W.)  by  a  fine  system  of  works  which  cost  over  $1,0OO,000l 


86     JH»uU  8, 


ALBANY. 


Broadway  is  a  wide  business  street  near  the  river;  and  the  parallel 
streets,  Pearl  and  Green,  are  also  devoted  to  trade.  State  St.  runs  from 
Broadway,  tip  a  steep  hill,  to  the  Capitol  Square,  on  the  plateau  W.  of 
the  city.  The  Old  State  House  is  a  plain  freestone  building,  which  dates 
from  1807,  and  fronts  on  a  park  of  3  acres.  Farther  back  is  the  *  State 
Library,  occupying  a  neat  flre-proof  building.  There  are  here  about 
85,000  volumes  (especially  rich  in  early  American  history),  many  pictures 
(of  historic  rather  than  artistic  value),  and  a  collection  of  curiosities 
which  includes  the  original  Andr^  papers,  the  MSS.  of  Sir  Wm.  John- 
son  and  Gov.  George  Clinton,  the  original  of  President  Lincoln's  Eman- 
cipation Proclamation,  bronze  medallions  of  74  French  monarchs  (pre- 
sented by  Napoleon  III. ),  the  dress-sword  of  Washington  (presented  to 
him  by  Frederick  William  of  Prussia),  his  pistol,  rolls  of  family  ex- 
pc  ises,  drawing  and  surveying  instruments,  and  the  draft  of  his  Farewell 
Address. 

The  •  Hew  Capitol  is  W.  of  the  Old  State  House,  and  is  being  slowly 
advanced  at  enormous  expense.  It  is  of  light-colored  stone,  in  Renaissance 
architecture,  with  certain  features  adapted  from  the  Louvre  Palace,  the. 
Paris  Hotel  de  Ville,  and  the  Maison  de' Commerce  at  Lyons.  Tlieru  will 
be  a  grand  terrace  on  the  E.,  whence  bold  stairways  will  lead  to  the 
loggia.  The  inner  court  is  137  by  92  ft.,  and  the  tower  is  to  be  820  ft. 
high.  Tlie  building  is  flre-proof,  and  occupies  the  highest  ground  in  the 
city,  170  ft.  above  the  Hudson.  It  will  be  visible  for  many  leagues.  The 
*  State  Hall  is  an  elegant  building  of  Sing  Sing  marble,  with  an  Ionic 
I>ortico  and  a  dome.  It  was  completed  in  1842,  at  a  cost  of  $  300,000, 
and  contains  several  important  offices  of  the  State.  Near  by  is  the  City 
Hall,  in  classic  architecture,  and  built  of  marble,  with  a  recessed  lonio 
portico  above  the  first  story.  Nearly  opposite  is  the  red  sandstone  build-: 
ing  (in  Italian  architecture)  of  the  old  and  famous  Albany  Academy.  At 
the  Bureau  of  Military  Statistics  (219  State  St. ;  open  daily  to  visitors) 
are  many  memorials  of  war,  and  also  an  interesting  collection  of  the  colors 
of  the  N.  Y.  soldiers  of  the  Republic  in  the  Secession  War.  The  State 
Geological  and  Agricultural  Hall  is  on  State  St.,  and  contains  vast  and 
valuable  *  collections  in  all  departments  of  natural  history,  agricultural 
products  and  implements,  ancient  relics  of  the  Indians,  and  the  skeleton 
of  the  Cohoes  mammoth. 

At  the  foot  of  State  St.  is  the  massive  Exchange  ;  and  to  the  S.  on  S. 
Pearl  St.  are  the  new  City  Buildings,  in  Florentine  architecture,  near  the 
Young  Men's  Association  Hall.  The  State  Arsenal  is  a  massive  castellated 
building  in  the  valley  at  the  comer  of  Eagle  and  Hudson  Sts.,  and  the 
State  Normal  School  is  at  Lodge  and  Howard  Sts.  The  Albany  Medical 
College  is  an  old  and  reputable  institution  (Eagle  and  Jay  Sts. ),  with 
lai|;e  anatomical  and  pathological  museums.    The  Law  School  is  near  the 


ALBANY. 


MimUS.      87 


irallel     * 
sfrom 
W.  of 
i  dates 
»8tot6 

abovit 
ilctures 
ioslties 
.  John- 

Email- 
is  (pre- 
inted  to 
nily  ex* 
farewell 

5  slowly 
laissanco 
lace,  the 
liere  will 
i  to  the 
3  820  ft. 
id  in  the 
les.  The 
an  Ionic 

300,000, 
the  City 
sed  lonio 
ne  buiUU 
imy.    At 

visitors) 
the  colors 

^e  State 

vast  and 
ricultural 
^skeleton 

e  S.  on  S. 
^  near  the 
lastellated 
,  and  the 
y  Medical 
Jts.),  with 
,s  near  the 


Medical  College,  and  is  one  of  the  most  famous  legal  Institutions  in  the 
Republic.  1}  M.  S.  W.  of  the  city  are  the  buildings  of  the  Almshouse, 
Insane  and  Fever  Hospitals,  and  Industrial  Schools,  all  on  one  large  farm. 
There  are  several  other  charitable  institutions  about  Albany,  and  numerous 
public  and  private  schools  of  high  grade.  On  a  hill  in  the  N.  part  of  the 
city  is  the  Dudley  Observatory,  richly  endowed  by  Mrs.  Dudley,  and  fur- 
nished with  a  costly  collection  of  astronomical  instruments  and  books. 
The  Catholic  *  Cathedral  qf  the  ImmaciUate  Conception  is  a  well-finished 
and  costly  building  on  Eagle  St.,  with  far-famed  windows  of  stained  glass t 
and  the  spacious  and  lofty  Gothic  *  Church  of  St.  Joseph,  on  Ten  Broeck 
St.,  is  worthy  of  inspection.  St.  Peter's  Episcopal  Church  (comer  of 
Lodge  and  State  Sts. )  is  an  elegant  Gothic  building,  wit\i  a  service  of 
communion-plate  which  was  given  by  Queen  Anne  to  the  Onondaga  In- 
dians. At  the  S.  W.  corner  of  the  church  is  buried  Lord  Howe,  who  was 
killed  at  Ticonderoga  in  1758.  Several  of  the  other  churches  of  the  city 
are  notable  either  for  quaintness  or  beauty.  To  the  N.,  near  Broadway, 
is  the  *  Van  Rensselaer  Manor  House  and  park,  an  interesting  old  build- 
ing on  the  site  first  occupied  by  Killian  Van  Rensselaer.  This  gentleman 
received  from  the  Dutch  king,  in  1637,  a  grant  of  1,150  square  M.,  em- 
bracing most  of  the  present  counties  of  Albany,  Rensselaer,  and  Columbia, 
and  here  he  ruled  in  feudal  state.  After  over  200  years  of  this  govern- 
ment, the  tenants  became  insurrectionary,  and  were  repressed  by  the 
State  troops.  The  anti-rent  troubles  in  1846  led  to  a  curtailment  of  the 
prerogatives  of  the  family,  but  the  Van  Rensselaers  still  remain  powerful 
and  wealthy.  The  old  Schuyler  mansion  was  built  in  1760,  and  stands  on 
Schuyler  St.,  near  S.  Pearl  St.  It  was  the  home  of  Gen.  Philip  Schuyler, 
and  was  visited  by  Lafayette,  Steuben,  Rochambeau,  Reidesel,  and  many 
other  eminent  officers.  The  Albany  Rural  Cemetery  is  N.  of  the  city, 
near  W.  Troy.  To  the  E.,  across  the  Hudson,  is  Oreenbush,  a  busy  rail- 
road suburb,  back  of  which  is  the  Mother  House  of  the  Sisters  of  Mercy. 

Albany  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient  Mohawk  village  of  Scaghneghtada 

i"  beyond  the  pine-woods ").  wltich  was  visited  by  Hudson  in  1609.  In  1612  a 
)utch  trading-i)08t  was  founded  here  ;  and  Albany  is  therefore  the  oldest  Euro- 
pean settlement  (still  inhabited)  within  the  13  original  States.  It  was  fortified  in 
1014,  and  was  named  Beaverwyck,  from  the  niunbers  of  beavers  found  there.  In 
1610  a  trading-post  and  13-gun  fort  was  built  by  Conitiaensen  on  the  island  off 
Mt.  Hope,  and  was  called  Fort  Nassau,  or  the  KasteeL  This  work  was  damaged 
by  a  flood,  and  in  1623  the  Dutch  W.  India  Co.  built  Ft  Orange  on  the  site  of 
Albany,  and  settled  the  place  with  Walloons.  The  garrison  was  worsted  in  med- 
dling in  a  civil  war  among  the  Indians,  and  the  new  colony  was  partly  abandoned. 
After  their  Admiral  Heyn  had  captured  the  Spanish  "Silver  Fleet,"  the  enriched 
W.  India  Co.  resolved  to  extend  their  limits  in  America,  and  established  the 
feudal  oi*der  of  Pcbtroons.  Broad  domains,  monopolies,  and  powers  were  granted 
to  such  of.  the  Comjiany  as  would  found  here  a  colonic  of  60  vassals ;  and  to  them 
was  given  the  title  of  patroon.  in  1637,  Killian  Van  Rensselaer,  a  peari- 
inerchant  of  Amsterdam,  founded  and  populated  about  Albany  the  domain  of 
Rensselaerwyck,  48  x  24  M.  in  area.  In  1643,  Rev.  Johannos  Megapolensis  erected 
a  church  (on  Church  St.) ;  and  in  1647  2  large  whales  ascended  to  the  Mohawk,  and 


88     JtouUS. 


TROY. 


terrified  the  burghers.  In  1652,  Gov.  Btuyvesant  came  up  with  Dutch  troops 
fh)ni  N.  Y.,  and  took  down  the  feudal  flag  of  Van  Renoselaer.  Meanwhile  tlie 
colony  had  become  the  chief  centre  of  the  American  fur-trude,  and  bands  of 
Indian  huntera  fi'uia  the  remotest  foroHta  brought  here  the  imtductH  of  the  chase. 
Sept.  10,  10(14,  after  the  full  of  New  Amstei-dani,  Carteret  occupied  Beaverwyck 
with  a  British  force  ;  and  it  waa  then  named  Albanv,  in  honor  of  James,  Duke 
of  York  and  Albany  (afterwards  King  James  II.),  ihe  pro^irietor  of  N.  Y.  In 
l(i90  it  had  GOO  inhabitants,  on  3  streets  (the  present  State  and  Pearl  8ts.  and 
Broad  way  )t  and  was  surrounded  >)y  palisades  dependent  on  a  citadel.  This  work 
had  4  bastions,  0  guns,  and  l&O  soldiers,  and  occupied  the  site  of  St.  Peter's 
Church  (State  St.).  The  early  government  was  a  military  despotism,  and  the 
great  councils  with  the  Indian  tribes  were  held  here  for  many  years.  The 
burghers  were  plain  and  fiugal  in  tlieir  habits,  and  lived  in  quaint  Netherlandish 
houses,  whose  gables  faced  tlie  street.  The  Dutch  language  was  predominant 
here  for  a  century  after  the  Knglish  conquest. 

In  ItiSO  Albany  was  made  a  city,  and  in  1708  it  became  the  capital  of  the  State. 
An  inter-provincial  Congress  wliiith  nuit  here  in  1754  formed  such. a  plan  of  union 
for  the  colonies  that  coiuierted  at^tion  was  possible  wlien  later  events  required  it. 
It  was  tlie  centre  of  Revolutionai^  power  in  N.  Y.  alter  1770,  was  the  head> 
quai*ter8  of  the  army  in  1812,  and  had  great  camps  during  the  SecesHion  War  (at 
Ureenbush,  across  the  river).  Since  the  comi)letion  of  tlie  Erie  and  Clmm)ilain 
Canals  and  the  extensive  systems  of  railrotids  which  converge  here,  Albany  has 
continued  to  increase  in  wealth  and  prosperity.  It  is  noted  for  its  stove-foundries, 
the  N.  Y.  Central  Railroad  worksiiops,  great  cattle-yards,  and  lumber  markets  (&7 
firms  engaged,  receiving,  in  1870. 4i>2,3G8,U00  ft.  of  boards,  21,&88,000  shingles,  and 
17,760,100  lbs.  of  staves).  There  are  immense  breweries  here,  and  the  Albany  ale 
Is  fiuned  for  its  excellence.  The  new  State  Capitol  will  be  one  of  the  finest  Re- 
naissant^e  buildings  in  the  world,  and  will  probably  cost  i$  15,000,000. 

Among  the  natives  of  Albany  were  Ileury  B^irclay,  the  missionary  to  the 
Mohawks  ;  Gen.  Lewis  Benedict,  who  was  killed  at  the  Battle  of  Pleasant  Ilill, 
La.,  in  1864;  A.  W.  Bradfoitl,  the  jurist;  Wm.  A.  Butler,  tlie  author;  Gen.  J.  B. 
Carr,  Senator  Roscoe  Conkling.  Sir  Cornelius  Cuyler  of  tlie  British  Anny,  Gen. 
Peter  Gtuisevoort ;  Francis  Bret  Ilarte,  the  poet  and  humorist ;  Prof  Joseph 
Henry,  tl>e  scientist;  Wm.  and  Philip  Livingston,  the  Revolutionary  statesmen  ; 
Wm.  Page,  the  artist ;  Peter  and  Philip  Schuyler,  Gozen  Van  Schaick,  Abraham 
Ten  Broeck,  and  tlie  Van  Rensselaers,  all  eminent  military  officers  in  the  earlier 
wars. 

Tht  Boston  and  Albany  R.  B.  runs  S.  E.  ft'om  Albany  to  the  frontier  of  Mass. 
in  about  40  M.  (and  to  Boston,  201  M.,  in  8  -  9  hrs.).  The  line  crosses  tlie  Hudson 
on  a  new  and  costly  bridge,  and  passes  S.  tlirough  the  town  of  Greenbush  and 
near  the  river.  Schodack  station  is  2  M.  E.  of  Castleton  landing  :  and  on  the  E. 
Bunker  Hill  is  seen.  The  train  descends  to  Kinderhook  (village  of  Niverville),  at 
the  outlet  of  Kinderhook  Lake,  wliich  is  4  M.  around.  Beyond  Chatliam  Centre 
tlie  train  reaches  Chatham  Four  Comers,  whence  the  Harlem  (Route  7).  Harlem 
Extension,  and  Hudson  &  Boston  Railroads  diverge.  The  line  runs  thence  to  the 
N.  E.  by  £.  Chatham  and  Canaan  (near  Queechy  Lake  and  Lebanon  Springs),  and 
at  State  Line  station  entera  the  State  of  Mass.  (State  Line  to  Boston,  see  Osgood's 
New  England,  Routes  21  and  22). 

Troy. 

Hotels.  — *  Mansion  House,  on  Washington  Square;  Troy  House,  comer  of 
River  and  1st  St.  ;  American,  comer  of  Fulton  and  3d  St. ;  and  several  smaller 
and  less  expensive  houses  near  the  R.  R.  station. 

BeadinsxRooms*  —  The  Young  Men's  Association,  in  the  Athenaium ;  the 
Catholic  Library  Association,  68  Congress  St.  ArnvsementB  at  the  Opera  and  the 
new  Music  Hall. 

Horse-Car g  on  Congress  St.  and  Pawling  Ave.  to  the  suburb  of  Albia  ;  fh)m 
River  St.  through  Greenbush  to  Cohoes  ;  ft-om  the  Troy  Iron  Works  on  Wynant's 
Kill,  by  2d,  Adams,  and  River  Sts.  to  Lansingburgh.  A  steam-ferry  crosses  the 
Hudson  at  the  foot  of  Ferry  St. ;  and  there  are  skiflT-ferries  at  Broadway  and 
Washington  St. 

Steamboata  leave  for  New  York  morning  and  evening,  stopping  at  Albany 
and  several  of  the  river  p^fts. 


TROY. 


It&uU  8.      89 


h  troops 
vhile  tiie 
bands  of 
tio  chase, 
iivcrwyck 
les,  Duke 
«.  Y.    In 
8ta.  and 
I'hiH  work 
t.  Peter's 
,  and  the 
ars.    The 
lerlandish 
iduniinaut 

the  State. 
1  of  union 
jquired  it. 
tno  head- 
on  Wor  (at 
Uhamplain 
Albany  lias 
-foundries, 
iiarkots  (&7 
ingles,  and 
Albany  ale 
i  finest  Re- 

ary  to  the 
asant  Hill. 
Uen.  J.  B. 
A.nny,  Gen. 
lof.  Joseph 
statesmen ; 
c,  Abraham 
\  the  earlier 

ir  of  Mass. 
the  Hudson 
liubush  and 
on  the  £. 
verville),  at 
liam  Centre 
7),  Harlem 
lence  to  the 
prings).  and 
lee  Osgood's 


B,  comer  of 
reral  smaller 

enceum ;  the 
>era  and  the 

Albia ;  from 
on  Wynant's 

Y  crosses  the 
•oadway  and 

ig  at  Albany 


)  * 


Ballroadt— fh>m  the  '  nion  Depot.  V.  T.  Central  &  Hudson  River,  for 
Oroenbush,  Albany,  New  York,  and  the  West :  the  Rensselaer  h  Saratoga,  for 
Albany,  Saratoga,  and  Rutland ;  the  Troy  &  Boston,  lor  Vermont,  the  Uoosao 
Tunnel,  aud  Boston. 

Trot,  the  capital  of  Rensselaer  County,  is  situated  at  the  head  of  navi- 
gation on  the  Hudson  River,  and  is  famous  for  its  extensive  manufactures. 
The  greater  portion  of  the  city  is  ofi  the  alluvial  plain  near  the  river,  and 
is  crossed  by  the  streams  called  Poesten's  Kill  and  Wynant's  Kill,  vrhich  de- 
scend from  the  high  bluffs  to  the  E.  The  hill  on  the  E.  ir  illed  ML  Ida  (the 
source  of  several  destructive  land-slides) ;  and  that  to  the  N.  £.  is  Mt.  Olym- 
pus. The  city  proper  has  46,465  inhabitants,  and  the  suburb  of  W.  Troy 
has  10,693.  It  has  9  banks,  5  savings-banks,  3  daily  and  6  weekly  papers, 
and  45  churches.  The  iron-works  here  are  of  groat  magnitude,  making 
spikes,  horseshoes,  nails,  stoves,  engines,  safes,  etc. ;  the  Meneely  foun- 
dry (at  W.  'iToy)  is  famous  for  its  bells;  and  in  the  S.  part  of  the  city  are 
extensive  Bessemer  ^teel  works.  The  car-works  are  the  largest  in  the 
State,  and  there  are  manufactories  of  cotton  and  woollen  goods,  collars, 
hosiery,  boots  and  shoes,  paper,  flour,  beer,  and  marbleized  slate.  River 
St»  is  the  chief  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  and  runs  parallel  with  the  Hud- 
son. The  new  buildings  on  Washington  Square  and  the  Savings-Bank  on 
State  St.  are  worthy  of  notice.  On  Seminary  Park  (Congress  St.)  are  the 
classic  porticos  of  the  1st  Presbyterian  Church  and  the  County  Court 
House,  between  which  is  the  building  of  the  old  Troy  Female  Seminary, 
founded  by  Mrs.  Emma  Willard  in  1821,  and  for  many  years  the  leading 
school  of  its  class  in  the  country  (having  7,000  alumnae).  The  Rensselaer 
Polytechnic  Institute  was  founded  by  Patroon  Van  Rensselaer  in  1824, 
and  is  a  well-known  school  of  mathematics  and  the  useful  arts.  Its 
buildings  are  near  8th  St.,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Troy  Hospital  (Sisters  of 
Charity)  and  the  Mary  Warren  Free  Institute.  E.  of  the  city  on  Mt.  Ida 
is  *  St.  Joseph^ a  Theological  Seminary  of  the  Province  of  N.  Y.,  a  Roman 
Catholic  institution  occupying  the  great  buildings  (in  Byzantine  architect- 
ure) which  were  originally  erected  for  the  Troy  University  (Methodist). 
The  tall  round  towers  of  the  Seminary  are  visible  for  miles;  and  the 
♦view from  the  Park,  or  from  the  Polytechnic  Institute  (above  the  Union 
Depot),  embraces  many  leagues  of  the  populous  Hudson  Valley,  with  Troy 
outspread  below.  Horse-cars  run  S.  E.  from  the  Seminary  near  Marshall's 
Infirmary  and  Ida  Lake  to  the  factory-village  of  Albia.  The  Catholic 
Orphan  Asylums  are  large  buildings  in  the  S.  part  of  the  city.  There  are 
several  other  charitable  institutions  here ;  and  the  educational  facilities 
are  very  good.  Near  1st,  2d,  and  3d  Scs.  are  the  best  houses  and  the  finest 
churches  of  the  city.  The  cemetery  has  pleasant  grounds,  and  the  Gris- 
wold  monument  is  worthy  of  notice. 

W.  Troy  has  42  manufactories,  aud  is  the  seat  of  the  Watervliet  Arse- 
nal,  a  first-class  national  institation  for  the  manufacture,  storage,  and 


tir 


90      It<mie9.       THE  CATSKILL  MOUNTAINS.  \ 

Bepair  of  war  materiel  and  military  equipage.  During  the  Secession  War^ 
1,600  persons  were  employed  here  day  and  night.  There  are  40  buildings, 
on  a  park  of  105  acres.  The  grounds  are  kept  very  neatly,  and  are 
adorned  with  trophy-batteries  captured  at  Yorktown,  Stony  Point,  Sara- 
toga,  and  other  battle-fields.^ 

Troy  occupies  an  estate  which  was  leased  in  1720  fTom  the  Van  Rensselaer 
Manor  by  Derick  Vanderlieyden.  In  1786  the  farm  was  laid  out  as  a  town  at  the 
Instance  of  a  company  of  New-Englanders.  by  whom  it  was  settled.  In  1789  it 
contained  12  dwellings,  and  received  f^om  its  freeholders  the  name  of  Troy,  dis- 

S lacing  the  Patroon's  name  of  Paanpaack  ("  a  Field  of  Com  "\  The  completion  of 
iie  Erie  Canal  gave  a  great  impetus  to  the  Trojan  prosperity,  and  the  city  has 
continued  to  grow  in  spite  of  several  disastrous  fires.  The  population  in  1810  was 
8,895 :  in  1830, 11,666 ;  in  1860,  28,786  ;  and  in  1870,  46,486. 


9.  The  Catskill  Hoimtains. 

The  usual  avenue  of  approach  is  by  the  Hudson  River.  The  steamboat  which 
leaves  N.  Y.  (Pier  40)  at  8.30  a.  m.,  arrives  at  Catskill  at  8.20  p.  M.  ;  and  the  boat 
leaving  Albany  at  8.30  a.  h.  arrives  at  11  a.  m.  Boats  leave  N.  Y.  (firom  the  foot 
of  Franklin  St.)  at  6  p.  M. ;  and  minor  lines  run  ttom  Catskill  to  Albany  and  New- 
buigh.  Several  trains  daily  on  tlie  Hud.<<on  River  R.  R.  (see  page  62)  stop  at 
Catskill  Station,  whence  a  ferry-boat  crosses  to  Catskill.  Stages  run  f^om  the 
landing  to  the  village.  Stages  leave  Catskill  daily  for  the  chief  hotels  among  the 
mts.  (to  the  Catskill  Mt.  House,  12  M. ;  fare,  $2.50).  The  mts.  are  sometimes 
entered  by  way  of  Rondout  and  the  Overlook  Mt.  House  (see  page  81). 

Catskill  (Irving  House,  new  and  comfortable;  GunrCa  Hotel,  neat  and 
inexpensive)  is  about  \  M.  from  the  river,  and  is  the  capital  of  Greene 
County.  It  has  3,791  inhabitants,  5  churches,  2  banks,  and  2  newspapers, 
and  is  the  seat  of  a  large  country  trade.  ^  M.  N.  is  the  *  Prospect  Park 
Hotel,  a  new  and  elegant  summer  hotel,  situated  among  extensive  grounds 
on  a  plateau  which  commands  a  pleasing  view.  \  M.  W.  of  Catskill  is 
the  *  Grant  House,  on  a  promontory  over  the  valley,  and  looking  across 
to  the  mts.  The  Catskill  Creek  flows  N.  W.  through  charming  rural 
scenery,  and  the  Cauterskill  Valley  extends  to  the  S.  near  the  old  King's 
Boad,  to  the  High  Falls,  9  M.  distant.  In  a  family  mansion  near  the 
village  lived  Thon\as  Cole,  the  artist,  who  painted  the  celebrated  series 
called  "  The  Voyage  of  Life,"  and  "  The  Course  of  Empire."  At  the 
time  of  his  death  he  had  on  the  easel  a  new  scries,  entitled  "The  Cross 
and  the  World."  The  shores  of  Catskill  were  first  discovered  by  Hu4son, 
in  1609,  and  here  he  was  visited  by  many  peaceable  Indians  bearing  fruits 
and  game,  but  the  merry  Dutch  mariners  amused  themselves  by  getting 
the  natives  drunk. 

The  Catskill  Mts.)  or  Katzbergs,  were  so  named  by  the  Dutch  on  account  of 
the  catamounts  with  which  they  were  infested.  The  Indians  called  them  the  Onti- 
uras,  or  Mts.  of  the  Sky,  by  reason  of  their  cloud-like  appearance.  Their  traditions 
held  that  among  tliese  iieaks  was  tlie  treasury  of  storms  and  supsliine  for  tlie 
Hudson  Valley,  guarded  by  a  powerful  spirit,  who  made  clouds  and  thunder- 
storms, and  kept  the  day  and  the  night  imx>risoned,  letting  out  one  a'»  a  time.' 

1  In  March,  I8r4.  th!i  artillery  was  advertiied  u  about  to  be  aold  at  auction  /.or  old  lion. 
Such  a  diapMwd  of  trophiM  of  victoiy  muat  be  tticmatistd  af  almoat  MWiikfioor. 


ion  War' 
lUdings, 
and  are 
atf  Sara- 

lensselaer 
wn  at  tlie 
[n  1789  it 
Troy,  dis- 
pletion  of 
le  city  has 
n  1810  was 


boat  wWch 
ad  the  boat 
om  the  foot 
lyandNew- 
62)  stop  at 
in  from  the 
}  among  the 
)  sometime 

)l,  neat  and 
.  of  Greene 
lewspapers, 
Bpect  Park 
ive  grounds 
■  Catskill  is 
king  across 
rming  rural 
old  King's 
jn  near  the 
|rated  series 
At  the 
<TTie  Cross 
by  Hudson, 
saaring  fruits 
by  getting 


Ion  account  of 
Ihenithe  Oiitl- 
lieiv  traditions 
Isliine  lor  tlie 
land  thunder- 
Ine  a'.,  a  time.' 


1.  MouTitain  Houat 

2.  Laurtl  Bouse. 
8.  Haines  House. 
4  Clifton  House. 


6.  CautersklU  Clove. 

6.  PlaUeHll  Clove. 

7.  Stony  Clove. 

8.  Grand  View  Hotel 


lion  lor  old  Itoa* 


\ 


THE  GATSKILL  MOUNTAINS.       JRouteS,      91 


•    ^ 


She  made  the  new  moons,  and  cut  up  the  old  ones  into  stars.  Many  mischievous 
imps  haunted  the  forests  and  dells,  and  lured  the  Indian  hunters  to  jdaces  of  ez- 
ti-eme  peril.  The  Dutch  sent  several  expeditions  to  these  mts.  in  search  of  gold 
and  silver,  in  which  quest  they  met  with  some  success.  The  mountaineers  of  the 
present  day  are  paruy  descended  trom  the  old  Dutch  settlers,  and  partly  tram 
the  insurgents  who  fled  ftom  Mass.  after  Shays's  rebellion.  The  highland  towns 
of  Greene  and  Ulster  Counties  have  hundreds  of  small  boarding-houses,  which  are 
usually  well  filled  in  summer,  and  the  district  affords  a  favorite  field  for  pedestrian 
and  artistic  tours.  Travellers  who  propose  to  make  a  long  sojourn  here  would  do 
well  to  buy  Rockwell's  '*  The  Catskill  fits." 

The  main  road  from  Catskill  to  the  mts.  leads  out  over  the  fair  valley 
and  crosses  the  Catskill  Creek.  6  M.  from  the  village  the  Mt.  Retreat,  or 
Half-Way  House,  is  passed,  and  the  ancient  Dutch  hamlet  of  Kiskatom 
is  seen  on  the  r.  The  boarding-houses  of  the  Saxes  and  others  are  near 
the  N.  slope,  and  the  road  soon  traverses  the  narrow  glen  which  has  been 
immortalized  by  Irving's  legend  of  "  Rip  Van  "Winkle."  The  well-con- 
structed road  thence  ascends  the  mt.  by  many  curves  and  galleries,  Bvix- 
rounded  by  trees  and  cliffs.  At  the  Rip  Van  Winkle  House,  in  Sleepy 
Hollow,  the  road  turns  to  the  1.  and  soon  leads  within  sight  of  the  white 
colonnades  of  the  Mt.  House.  The  *  Catskill  Mt  House  accommodates 
600  guests  ($4.50  a  day;  $25-30  a  week),  and  is  situated  on  a  broad 
reck  platform  on  Pine  Orchard  Mt.,  2,212  ft.  above  the  nver. 

The  **viewflrom  this  point  includes  an  area  of  10,000  square  M.,  in  4  States. 
"  A  line  drawn  from  N.  to  S.  through  the  ephere  of  vision  cuvides  it  into  2  equal 
parts.    The  W.  half  is  mountain,  falling  off  in  a  line  of  rock  parapet ;  the  E.  is  a 

vast  semicircle  of  blue  landscape,  i  M.  lower On  the  horizon  the  Hudson 

Highlands,  the  Berkshire  and  Green  Mts.,  unite  their  chains,  forming  a  continuous 
line  of  misty  blue."  The  Hudson  and  iia  broad  valley,  studded  with  white  vil- 
lages, are  outstretched  below  for  many  leagues.  This  Aiew  has  been  enthusiasti- 
cally described  bv  some  of  the  best  American  authors,  and  Harriet  Martineau  waa 
more  moved  by  it  than  by  Niagara  itself.  The  mirage,  or  spectral  cloud  reflec- 
tions, Uie  sunrise  over  the  Taghkanicks,  and  the  raging  of  a  tliunder-storm,  are 
objects  of  special  interest  here. 

The  North  Mt.  commands  a  still  broader  prospect,  and  is  often  visited 
from  Jhe  hotel  by  a  path  which  passes  the  cavern  called  the  Bear's  Den. 
The  South  Mt.  is  ascended  by  a  pleasant  path  that  leads  up  by  Pudding- 
Stone  Hall  anJ  the  Fairy  Spring;  and  the  view  is  over  a  vast  area,  includ- 
ing also  certain  peaks  of  N.  J.    A  short  distance  back  of  the  Mt.  House 
are  the  two  CauterskiU  Lakes  {jQWiYi  1^  M.  around,  and  abounding  in  fish), : 
between  which  the  road  passes.    An  old  road  leads  S.  from  the  hotel  to 
Moses  Rock  and  the  Grand  View  House.     1^-2^  M.  distant  (by  path  or 
road)  is  *  SckutVs  Laurel  House  (200  guests ;  $  15  -  25  a  week),  situated " 
at  the  head  of  a  deep  and  well-wooded  ravine.    Just  below  the  house  are 
the  lovely  *  Cauterskill  Falls,  where  the  outlet  of  the  lakes  springs  over.i 
the  cliffs  in  two  leaps,  the  first  being  175  ft.  high,  and  the  second  80  ft. 
The  natural  flow  of  water  being  insufficient  (especially  in  summer)  to  dis- 
play the  best  effect  of  the  Falls,  a  dam  has  been  built  at  the  verge  of  the 
cliff,  and  the  water  is  turned  on  at  certain  times  and  after  the  payment  of 
a  small  fee.    Long  stairways  descend  to  the  foot  of  the  FiJls,  and  some 


■■Mnnnpivpawi 


92     lUmU9. 


niLENVILLE. 


fine  rouged  scenery  (including  the  *  Bastion  Falls,  ^  M.  below  tbe  second 
ffdl)  may  be  seen  by  scrambling  down  the  ravine  to  the  road  in  the  Cauter- 
skill  Clove  (1  M.  from  the  upper  fall).  Sunset  Rock  is  1^  M.  from  the 
Laurel  House  (by  a  well-defined  forest-path),  and  overlooks  the  resound- 
ing ravine,  High  Peak  and  Round  Top,  the  Hudson  River  and  Valley,  and 
fhe  hamlet  of  PalensvUle.  Prospect  Rock  is  reached  by  a  pleasant  path 
leading  W.  1  M.  from  the  Laurel  House. 

PalenTille  is  10  M.  from  Catskill  and  4-5.M.  from  the  Mt.  House. 
It  is  a  pleasant  hamlet  at  the  mouth  of  the  Cauterskill  Clove,  and  is  the 
favorite  resort  of  artists.  There  are  several  large  boarding-houses  here, 
and  the  prices  are  $  8  - 15  a  week  (Cass ;  Ooodwin ;  Hawver ;  Ward ;  Peck ; 
Winantz ;  Crapsey,  and  others).  Over  Palenville,  on  a  sharp  projecting 
spur  of  S.  Mt.,  is  the  Grand  View  House,  visible  far  over  the  valley. 
From  the  hamlet  the  wide  ravine  called  the  CautersviUe  Clove  runs  W. 
into  the  mts.,  and  is  traversed  by  the  Hunter  Turnpike.  The  Clove  leads 
upward  for  3  M.  to  the  lofty  plateau,  and  passes  very  pretty  bits  of  brook 
scenery.  The  High  Rocks  and  the  *  Fawn's  Leap  Falls  (fee,  25c)  are  in 
this  ravine;  and  near  the  head  is  the  Haines  House,  where  is  the  entrance 
to  *  Haines's  FeUls  (fee,  25c.),  a  fine  cascade  150  ft.  high,  with  several 
minor  falls  above  and  below.  Near  the  bridge  where  the  Clove  road 
crosses  the  brook  down  in  the  glen  is  the  peculiar  rock  which  assumes  the 
form  of  Washington's  profile.  There  are  several  graceful  cascades  on  the 
slopes  of  High  Peak  (1.  of  the  road) ;  and  the  Cauterskill  may  be  followed 
to  the  r.  from  the  road  by  the  Bastion  and  Cauterskill  Falls  to  the  Laurel 
House.  On  the  plateau  near  the  head  of  the  Clove  are  several  laiige 
boarding-houses  (Haines's ;  Scribner's;  the  Clifton,  etc.).  The  road 
passes  on  to  the  hamlets  of  Tannersville  (Rogen's  Hotel ;  Mt.  Home)  and 
Hunter  {Breeze  Lawn  Hoiise);  and  near  Hunter  a  road  diverges  to  the  S. 
W.  and  passes  down  to  the  E^opus  Valley,  through  Stony  Clove,  which 
abounds  in  trout.  Hunter  is  in  a  narrow  glen  which  was  settled  by  Cow 
Boys  (an  order  of  border  banditti)  after  the  Revolution.  Near  it  is 
Hunter  Mt.  (4,082  ft.  high),  and  also  the  sharp  peak  called  the  Colonel's 
Chair.  Stony  Clove  is  2  M.  from  the  hamlet,  and  within  its  sunless 
depths  ice  remains  throughout  the  year.  The  Devil's  Tombstone  is  a 
lofty  rock  in  this  defile.  Near  the  Clove  is  the  sportsman's  resort  known 
as  Oray's  Hotel.  Hunter  is  20  M.  from  Catskill  and  4  M.  beyond  Tan- 
nersville. Farther  W.  are  the  profound  glens  of  Lexington  ;  and  86  M. 
W.  of  Catskill  is  the  thriving  village  of  Prattsville  (2  inns),  near  the  far^ 
viewing  Pratt's  Rocks  (on  which  are  cut  busts  of  the  Pratts,  who  founded 
the  town).  A  road  leads  up  the  valley  from  Catskill  to  Cairo  (10  M. ),  and 
S.  Durham  (16  M.),  and  then  crosses  the  mts.  to  Windham  (26  M.),  a  lofty 
town  whose  hamlets  receive  many  summer  visitors. 

The  PlattehUll  Clove  is  6  M.  a  of  the  Cauterskill  Qove,  and  may  bo- 


ALBAHY  TO  MONTREAL.         MoiiU  JO,      93 


>  second 
Cauter- 
rom  the 
resonnd- 
[ley,  and 
knt  path 

,  House, 
id  is  the 
ses  here, 
I ;  Peck ; 
rojecting 
e  valley, 
runs  W. 
ove  leads 
of  brook 
c)  are  in 
I  entrance 
;h  several 
love  road 
mmes  the 
les  on  the 
s  followed 
he  Laurel 
eral  large 
The  road 
'^ome)  and 
to  the  3. 
[ve,  "which 
by  Cow 
ear  it  is 
Colonel's 
;s  sunless 
itone  is  a 
irt  known 
ond  Tan* 
tnd  86M. 
ir  the  far- 
founded 
M.),  and 
.),alofty 


entered  from  the  plains  of  Sangerties  by  a  road  running  along  the  foot  of 
the  mts.  from  Paleaville,  or  from  the  plateau  near  Tannenville.  It  is  a 
deep  descending  gorge  between  massive  cliffs,  and  is  traversed  by  a  falling 
brook  and  a  rugged  road.  On  the  N.  are  High  Peak  and  Bound  Top ; 
and  on  the  S.  is  the  Overlook  Mt.  (see  page  81).  Dibble's  House  is  in 
this  Clove,  S  M.  from  Hunter,  and  is  near  the  Black  Chasm  Falls,  which 
are  300  ft.  high. 

*  High  Peak  is  the  most  prominent  object  in  all  this  region,  and  is 
often  ascended,  even  by  ladies.  The  path  is  rugged  and  long,  and  begins 
near  Haines's  Falls.  The  *  view  from  the  summit  (3,804  ft.  high)  is  said 
to  be  the  most  extensive  in  this  region.  Next  S.  K  of  High  Peak  is  the 
symmetrical  Round  Top  (3,718  ft.  high) ;  and  these  two  summits  are  isolated 
from  the  others  of  the  range  by  the  detp  passes  of  the  Cauterskill  and 
Plattekill  Cloves.  Blackhead  is  a  steep  and  symmetrical  peak  5-6  M.  N. 
of  the  Mt.  House.  There  remain  several  hundred  square  miles  in  Ulster 
and  Greene  Counties,  explored  but  unchronicled,  thinly  inhabited,  and 
coveied  with  tall  and  nameless  mts. ;  adorned  with  lofty  cascades,  clothed 
with  primeval  forests,  and  traversed  by  many  picturesque  trout-streams. 

• 

10.   Albany  to  HontreaL 

The  most  direct  route  is  by  the  Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  R.  R.  to  Rutland,  and 
thence  N.  by  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R.  Drawing-room  and  sleeping  cars  are 
attached  to  the  through  trains,  and  the  line  traverses  an  interesting  and  pictur* 
esque  country.  tSumnftr  tourists,  to  whom  time  is  no  ottject,  will  prefer  the  way 
by  Lal<es  George  and  Chainplain  (Routes  11  and  12),  or  by  Lake  Champlain  alone, 
taking  the  steamer  at  Whitehall.  (A  new  railroad  is  being  built  flrom  Whitehall 
along  the  W.  shore  of  Lalce  Champlain  to  Montreal,  and  will  probably  be  opened 
to  travel  in  1875).  Fares,  Albany  to  Saratoga,  $1.10  :  to  Lake  Champlain  (White- 
hall), $2.45  ;  to  Rutland,  $3.65. 

Stations,  Albany ;  Cemetery,  4  M. ;  W.  Troy,  6 ;  Cohoes,  9  ;  Waterfbid,  11 : 
Junction,  12  (here  the  Albany  Division  joins  the  main  line,  coming  from  lYoy,  6 


I 


hall  (Junction,  77  ;  liake  Champlain,  79) :  Fuirhaven,  85 ;  Hydeville,  88 ;  Castle- 
ton,  96 ;  W.  Rutland,  102  ;  Centre  Rutland,  104  ;  Rutland,  106.  Stations  ox  the 
Central  Vermont  R.  R.  Rutland,  106  M.  from  Albany  ;  Sutherland  Falls,  11.3  ; 
Pittsford,  110 ;  Brandon,  123  ;  Leicester  Junction,  128 ;  Salisbury,  133  ;  Middle- 
bunr,  139 ;  Brooksville,  143  ;  New  Haven,  147  :  Vei^gennes,  153  ;  Ferrisburgb,  165  ; 
N.  Ferrisburgli,  168  ;  Charlotte,  102  ;  Slielbunie,  167  ;  Burlington,  174  ;  Winooski, 
177 ;  Essex  June  ion,  182 ;  Colchester,  180 ;  Milton,  193 ;  Georgia,  197 ;  St.  Albans. 
207 ;  St.  Johns,  250  ;  Montreal,  277. 

The  S.  terminus  of  the  R.  &  S.  R.  R.  is  at  Troy,  and  trains  from  Al- 
bany connect  with  the  main  line  at  Albany  Junction.  The  line  passes 
the  large  lumber  docks  near  the  outlet  of  the  Erie  Canal,  and  then  runs 
N.  by  the  beautiful  Albany  Rural  Cemetery  to  W.  Troy^  with  the  great 
city  of  Troy  on  the  E.,  over  which  are  the  towers  of  St.  Joseph's  Semi- 
nary (see  page  89).  Tlie  Mohawk  River  is  crossed  at  CohoM,  a  prosperous 
manufacturing  city  at  Cohoes  Falls,  with  16,357  inhabitants,  7  churches. 


94      RmUelO.         ^     BALLSTON  SPA. 


h 


H 


and  2  weekly  pipers.  On  the  immense  water-power  derived  by  hydraulio 
canals  fronv»bove  the  long  dam  are  large  factories  for  making  paper, 
foruiture^  cotton  goods,  axes,  bar-iron,  hardware,,  etc.,  aggregating 
$10,000,000  annually.  Near  Cohoes  is  the  new  and  costly  State  Dam; 
and  3  M.  above,  the  Erie  Canal  crosses  the  river  in  a  stone  aqueduct 
1,:L37  ft.  long,  resting  on  26  piers.  The  falls  at  Cohoes  are  900  ft.  wide, 
amid  rocky  ledges  and  cliffs,  and  fall  78  ft.  (40  of  which  are  perpendicu- 
lar). The  train  passes  on  to  the  large  factory-village  of  WaUrfcn-d,  on  the 
Hudson;  runs  by  the  Albany  Junction,  and  traverses  a  long  intervale 
between  the  Hudson  River  and  the  Champlain  Canal,  Tlie  line  then 
deflects  to  the  W.  and  passes  the  thread-factories  of  Mechanicsville  and 
Bound  Lake  (near  the  celebrated  Methodist  camp-ground).  Station, 
Boliston  Spa  (*  Sans  Souci  Hotel;  BaMston  Houae^  and  others),  the  capi- 
tal of  Saratoga  County,  with  6,000  inhabitants  and  several  factories.  The 
Spa  was  widely  renowned  as  a  summer  resort  many  ^ears  ago,  and  still 
has  many  visitors.  The  Artesian  Lithia  Spring  was  discovered  in  1868, 
and  flows  from  a  depth  of  650  ft.  It  is  recommended  for  the  cure  of 
rheumatism,  gout,  gravel,  and  several  other  maladies,  and  contains  1,233^  ^ 
grains  of  mineral  matter  to  each  gallon,  of  which  nearly  8  grains  are  of  the 
bi-carbonate  of  lithia.  The  Sans  Souci  Spouting  Spring  contains  986^ 
grains  of  mineral  matter  to  each  gallon,  of  which  572  are  of  chloride  of 
sodiiim,  and  274  are  of  the  bi-carbonates  of  lime  and  maj^iesia.  It  is  on 
the  grounds  of  the  Sans  Souci  Hotel,  a  large  building  which  was  erected 
in  1804.  Tliere  are  other  deep  springs  in  the  village  A  branch  B.  R. 
runs  S.  W.  from  Ballston  to  Schenectady,  in  17  M.  7  M.  beyond  the  Spa 
the  train  passes  (on  the  r. )  the  great  hotels  of 

Saratoga  Springs. 

Hotels. — *  Congress  Hall,  alongside  of  Cougress  Park,  has  1,016  ft.  of  frontage 
(on  3  streets),  with  broad  piazzas,  roof  promenades,  and  fine  parlors.  It  was 
built  in  1868,  and  is  of  an  imposing  form  of  architecture  (1,200  guests).  The 
*  Grand  Union  Hotel  is  opposite  Congress  Hall,  and  has  a  frontage  (on  Broadway) 
of  1,364  ft,  with  1  M.  of  piazzas,  2  M.  of  halls,  13  acres  of  carpets  and  marble 
flooring,  and  824  rooms  (from  $  21  to  $  28  a  week).  The  office  is  adorned  with  mar- 
ble columns  and  frescos .  The  •  Grand  Hotel,  opposite  Congress  Park .  is  richly  fur- 
nished and  decorated,  and  cares  for  1,000  guests.  The  New  ♦  United  States  Hotel 
is  solidly  built  of  brick,  with  1,100  rooms,  at  a  cjst  of  over  *  1,000,000.  It  fronts 
on  Broadway  and  Division  Sts.  for  900  ft.,  and  has  immense  parlors  and  dinin;;- 
halls,  and  airy  colonnades.  The  *  Clarendon  is  an  aristocratic  resort  (500 
^ests),  amid  stately  elm  groves,  opposite  Congress  Park  ;  and  the  Everett  House, 
m  the  same  vicinity,  accoramt  dates  200  guests.  The  Ameiican  (on  Broadway) 
acconunodates  450  guests  ;  the  Marvin  House  (corner  of  Broadway  and  Division 
Sts.),  250 ;  the  Columbian,  200 ;  and  the  Continental  (on  Washington  8t.),  200. 
Besides  those  above  named,  there  arc  42  hotels  in  and  near  the  village,  together 
with  several  great  water-cure  establishments  under  the  care  of  experienced  doc- 
tors, and  many  quiet  and  inexi)en8ive  boarding-houses.  The  chargjes  at  the  prin- 
cipal hotels  are  ^5  a  day,  $  25  -  85  a  week,  while  every  variety  of  price  and  accom- 
modation may  be  found  among  the  smaller  hotels.  Pleasant  quarters  may  be  found 
in  the  boarding-houses  for  ;jjs  8  -  20  a  week.  (Lists  of  hotels  and  boarding-houses, 
with  locations  and  prices,  in  Dearborn's  "  Saratoga,"  25c. ;  Allen's  "  Handbook  " 
is  scientific  and  medical,  76c.)  The  Windsor  (400  guesto)  is  a  new  flrst-clas8 
hotel,  opposite  the  Clarendon. 


^dnralio 
;  paper, 
regaling 
;e  Dam ; 
queduct 
't.  wide, 
pendicu- 
{,  on  the 
nten'ale 
ine  then 
rille  and 
Station, 
the  capi- 
es.    The 
and  still 
in  1868, 
cvire  of  ^ 
as  l,233i 
ire  of  the 
tins  986| 
loride  of 
I  It  is  on 
3  erected 
ich  R.  R. 
I  the  Spa 


f  frontage 
I.    It  was 
sts).    The 
Jroadway) 
id  marble 
with  mar- 
richly  fur- 
ites  Hotel 
It  fronts 
id  dining- 
jsort  (500 
jtt  House, 
roadway) 
Division 
St.),  5200. 
,  together 
need  doc- 
the  prin- 
nd  accom- 
y  be  found 
g-houses, 
and  book  " 
first-class 


V 


/^^ 


SABATOOA  SPRINGS. 


AoiUt  JO,      95 


GttnrlacM* "-  ^^^  **cl*  pasienger  for  a  noune  within  th«  vUlage  limits  (b«ff* 
sage  extra).  Omnibutes  run  fhiqueiitly  to  the  springs  beyond  tlie  village,  and  to 
Baratoga  Lake.  A  small  steamer  plies  on  the  lake.  SUigtM  ran  daily  to  Schuyler* 
vllle  (1*2  M.  £.)  and  the  river  vilUges. 

Amusements*  —  There  are  niglitly  hops  in  the  ball-rooms  of  the  laive  hotels, 
and  grand  balls  once  a  week  at  each  of  these  liouses.  Guests  pay  (l  for  admis- 
sion to  the  balls,  which  are  very  brilliant  Musio  is  discoursed  by  the  bands 
connected  with  the  hotels  several  times  dailv,  and  promenades  take  place  in  the 

Imrks,  parlors,  and  piazzas.    Djramatio  and  liternry  entertainments  in  the  village. 
lalL    The  raees  come  otT  in  July  and  August  (second  week)  on  one  of  the  best  of 
the  American  race-courses  (1  M.  from  Congress  Pari'.).    The  swiftesLhorses  are 
entered  at  these  famous  contests,  and  some  of  the  mo3t  remarkable  nu^  of  the 
past  decade  have  taken  place  thera.    Aquatic  sports  on  Saratoga  Lake. 

Churches*  —  The  Methodist  and  the  Episcopal  societies  Tiave  fine  buildings 
on  Wasliiiii^on  St.,  neur  the  Grand  Union.  The  Baptist  Church  is  on  the  same 
street,  and  the  Psasbyterlan  Church  is  on  Upper  Broadway.  The  Catholics  meet 
at  tlioir  church  on  8.  Broadway  (nenr  the  Clarendon),  and  the  Congregationalists 
on  Pliila  St.  (over  the  Post-Offlce).  The  Y.  M.  G.  A.  parlors  and  readlug-room  are 
in  the  Town  Hall  (comer  Broadwiy  and  Church  St.). 

Rnllroadt*  —  To  New  York,  l)y  tiirough  express  (without  change'  on  the  Hud- 
son Itiver  R.  R.,  in  5J  hrs.  (186  M.),  or  to  Albany  by  train,  and  thence  to  New  York 
by  tlie  river-steamers.  To  Philadelphia  (page  819)  byway  of  Schenectady  and 
Binghamton.  Tc^  Boston,  by  the  Iloosac  Tunnel,  by  Rutland  .  230  M.  in  9  hrs., 
without  change),  or  by  the  Boston  and  Albany  R.  II.  To  Chicago  (841  M.),  by 
Schenectady,  and  thence 'by  the  N.  Y.  Central  and  its  Western  connections. 
Saratoga  is  38  M.  from  Albany,  45  M.  from  Lake  George,  202  M.  from  Montreal, 
811  M.  ft-om  Niagara  Falls,  237  M.  fh>iii  the  White  Mts.,  nnd  412  M.  fn>m  Wash- 
ington.   The  Adirondack  Railroad  runs  from  Saratoga  to  North  Creek  (67  M.). 

Saratoga  Springs,  one  of  the  foremost  summer  resort»  of  America 
and  of  the  world,  is  situated  in  Eastern  New  York,  about  midway  be- 
tween N.  Y.  City  and  Montreal.  Like  Newport  by  the  sea,  it  is  often 
called  "  the  Queen  of  American  watering-places " ;  and  this  dual  sover- 
eignty is  generally  acknowledged.  The  village  is  situated  on  a  plateau 
10-12  M.  W.  of  the  Hudson  River,  aDd  lias  a  resident  population  of 
about  9,000.  The  hotel  system  of  Saratoga  is  unequalled  elsewhere  m 
the  world,  and,  although  equal  to  the  accommodation  of  15-18,000 
guests,  it  is  taxed  to  its  utmost  capacity  during  the  mouth  of  August 
(the  season  opens  early  in  June).  Broadway  is  the  main  street,  and  ex- 
tends fur  several  miles  N.  and  S.,  with  the  chief  hotels  near  its  centre,  and 
a  succession  of  villas  beyond.  Circular  St.  and  Lake  Avenue  are  also 
famed  for  their  elegant  summer  residences,  -While  large  medical  establish- 
ments and  boarding-houses  are  found  on  the  quieter  side-streets.  The 
village  is  at  its  brightest  in  August,  when  it  is  thronged  by  visitors  Arom 
all  parts  of  the  Republic  and  from  Europe ;  while  over  3,000  private 
carriages,  together  with  the  cavalcades  from  the  public  livery-stables, 
join  in  the  parade  of  fashion  on  Broadway  and  the  Boulevani  Although 
the  greater  part  of  the  visitors  come  from  the  central  Atlantic  States,  yet 
the  number  from  beyond  that  district  is  so  great  as  to  give  a  continental, 
or  even  a  cosmopolitan,  flavor  to  the  summer  society.  The  merry  music 
of  the  bands,  the  regular  processions  of  elegant  carriages  on  the  fashion- 
able drives,  the  crowds  gathering  about  the  springs  at  the  hours  for 
drinking,  the  brilliant  hops  and  the  world-nnowned  balk  at  the  grand 


96      RfmUJO. 


8ARAT00A  SPRINOa 


hotels,  and  the  surging  of  the  multitnde  toward  the  railroad-station  at 
the  time  of  the  incoming  trains,  furnish  endless  resources  for  observation 
and  amusement. 

OongroM  Park  is  a  pleasant  ground  for  »  ramble,  and  consists  of  a 
low  ridge  sweeping  around  the  Congress  and  Columbian  Springs.  It  is 
opposite  the  chief  hotels,  and  is  well  laid  out  in  paths,  with  a  lake,  a  line 
of  cottages,  and  many  other  neat  embellisltnients  which  were  added 
in  1876.  4S.  of  the  Park  is  the  Indian  Camp,  where  a  band  of  French 
half-breeds  and  Indians  sojourn  during  the  summer,  carrying  on  a 
lucrative  trade  in  bead-work,  baskets,  moccasins,  and  other  small  wares. 
Tho  Circular  Railway  is  near  the  camp,  and  is  supposed  to  afford  visitors 
a  beneficial  exercise.  A  little  way  N.  of  the  camp  (on  the  r.  side  of 
Circular  St. )  is  the  Temple  Grove  Seminary,  whose  fine  building  is  used 
during  the  summer  as  a  boarding-house  for  families.  On  the  same  street, 
just  beyond  the  Seminary,  is  the  Drs.  Strong's  Institute  (200  guests),  for 
the  practice  of  the  water,  vacuum,  and  movement  cure*.  1^  M.  N.  of 
the  Park  are  the  hotel  and  driving-park  at  OUn  Mitchell,  with  finely  ar- 
ranged grounds  and  shady  groves.  \ 

The  mineral  springs  rise  in  a  stratum  of  Potsdam  sandstone,  near'a  great  break, 
or  displacement,  of  tlie  strata  underlying  the  Saratoga  Valley,  and  reach  the  sur- 
face by  passing  through  a  bed  of  blue  clay.  Most  of  tiie  springs  are  owned  by 
stock  companies,  one  of  which  has  a  capital  of  91,000.000,  and  controls  the  Con- 

Eess,  Columbian,  and  Empire  Springs.  The  process  of  boring  artesian  wells  has 
en  introduced  with  much  profit,  and  some  of  the  most  valuable  of  the  new 
sources  have  been  discovered  in  that  way  (8175,000  has  been  offered  for  the 
Geyser  Spring).  Immense  quantities  of  the  waters  are  sent  away  to  all  parts  of 
the  United  States,  for  the  treatment  of  invalids  at  home,  though  the  processes  of 
bottling  and  packing  are  difficult  and  costly.  In  the  year  1866,  800,000  bottles 
were  sent  away  fTom  the  Empire  Spring  alone.  Great  quantities  of  artificial  imi- 
tations of  the  waters  are  also  sold  in  the  American  cities.  The  principal  higre- 
dients  are  carbonic  acid  and  salt,  with  bi-carbonates  of  lime,  magnesia,  soda, 
iron,  and  lithia,  whose  varying  pn)portions  cause  the  pecuUar  properties  of  the 
different  sources.  The  visitor  may  freely  drink  at  any  of  the  springs,  the  water 
being  dipped  up  by  boys  (to  whom  a  small  gratuity  is  sometimes  given).  The 
cathartic  waters  should  be  taken  before  breakfast  (3  glasses  being  a  fair  quantity)  ; 
the  alterative  waters  are  taken  in  small  quantities  throughout  the  day ;  the  tonic 
(hron)  waters  after  midday ;  and  the  diuretic  waters  before  each  meaL 

The  Congress  Spring  is  near  the  new  cottages  in  Congress  Park.  It 
was  found  by  a  party  of  hunters  in  1792,  and  was  so  named  because  there 
was  a  Congressman  among  their  number.  The  exportation  of  the  water 
began  in  1823,  and  it  has  now  a  continental  fame,  and  is  also  sold  in 
Europe.  Each  gallon  contains  400  grains  of  chloride  of  sodium  (salt), 
143  of  bi-carbonate  of  lime,  122  of  bi-carbonate  of  magnesia,  and  36  of  other 
elements,  with  392  cubic  inches  of  carbonic-acid  gas.  Tliis  water  is 
cathartic  and  alterative,  and  is  beneficial  in  diseases  of  the  liver  and  kid- 
neys, dyspepsia,  and  gout.  More  of  it  is  drank  than  of  the  water  of  any 
other  American  spring,  and  its  vicinity  is  thronged  every  bright  summer 
moxning  with  health-seekers  from  the  hotels. 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


JlouU  JO.      97 


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The  Oolnmbiui  Spring  is  prettily  sheltered  in  Congress  Park.  It 
was  discovered  in  1806,  and  is  the  favorite  oaiong  the  residents  of  the 
village.  It  is  a  ferruginous  water,  containing  much  carhonic-acid  gas, 
and  should  be  taken  in  small  quantities.  It  is  a  decided  tonic  and  diuretic, 
and  its  use  strengthens  the  digestive  organs  and  lucres  iCS  the  iron  in  the 
blood.  Each  gallon  contains  2&1  grains  of  chloride  of  sodium,  90  of  car- 
bonate of  lime,  40  of  carbonate  of  magnesia,  6  of  carbonate  of  iron,  and 
457  cubic  inches  of  carbonic-acid  gas. 

The  WMhington  Spring  is  in  the  grounds  of  the  Clarendon  Hotel 
(across  Broadway,  and  600  ft.  from  the  Congress).  It  was  opened  in 
1806,  and  while  being  renovated  and  shafted  in  1858,  a  torrent  of  water 
and  gas  burst  into  the  subterranean  tunnel  and  forced  the  workmen  to 
flee  for  their  lives.  This  is  the  pleasantest  water  in  the  valley,  and  has  a 
taste  of  iron,  with  strong  tonic  properties.  It  is  sometir  38  called  '*  the 
Champagne  Spring,"  and  is  situated  amid  stately  pine  groves. 

The  Hathorn  Spring  is  on  Spring  St.,  opposite  Congress  Hall.  It  '7a8 
discovere<l  in  1868,  and  is  a  very  powerful  cathartic,  especib."y  effict  lous 
in  disorders  of  the  stomach  and  kidneys,  and^  giving  tone  and  strength 
to  exhausted  systemM.  Each  gallon  contains  510  grains  of  chloride  of 
sodium,  176  of  bi-carbonate  of  magnesia,  171  of  bi-carbonate  of  lin-  9nd 
an  extraordinary  quantity  of  lithia.  It  is  pleasant  to  the  taste,  a  id  8c>t8 
also  as  a  diuretic.  It  was  tubed  at  a  cost  of  $  15,000,  and  is  40  ft.  deep. 
300  dozen  bottles  (93  a  dozen)  are  put  up  daily.  The  Hamilton  Spring 
U  near  the  Hathorn,  and  back  of  Congress  Hall  (comer  of  Spring  and 
Putnam  Sts.).  It  is  alterative  and  diuretic;  also  mildly  cathartic,  and  is 
chiefly  used  for  diseases  of  the  kidneys.  The  Putnam  Spring  is  on  Phila 
St.  (near  Putnam),  and  is  a  chalybeate  water.  It  is  mostly  used  for  bath- 
ing, for  which  there  are  conveniences  on  the  premises.  The  Crystal 
Spring  is  under  the  Grand  Hotel,  and  was  opened  in  1870.  It  is  tainted 
with  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  and  is  alterative  in  its  effect. 

The  Pavilion  Spring  is  in  a  pretty  park  on  Lake  A '^nne,  near  Broad- 
way. It  was  tubed  u.  1839  (re-tubed  in  1869),  and  hb:-  r  v;ide  reputation 
for  its  cathartic  properties  and  its  efficacy  in  dyspepsia  and  bilious  com- 
plaints. Of  late  years  it  has  improved  in  quality  and  popularity,  and 
great  quantities  are  sent  away  every  year.  The  United  States  Spring  is 
under  the  same  graceful  colonnade,  and  is  tonic  and  alterative  in  its 
properties,  while  from  its  sparkling  character  it  is  used  for  giving  life  and 
flavor  to  still  wines.  Each  gallon  (;ontains  142  grains  of  chloride  of 
sodium,  93  of  bi-carbonate  of  lime,  73  of  bi-carbonate  of  magnesia,  and  245 
cubic  inches  of  carbonic  acid. 

The  sources  previously  mentioned  are  near  each  other  in  the  centre  of 
the  village.  The  Seltzer,  High  Rock,  Star,  Red,  and  "  A  "  Spiings  are  in 
a  lin«)  in  the  N.  part.of  the  village.    The  Seltser  is  a  short  distance  N. 

5  Q 


i. 

'J 


98      Jtoute  10. 


SABAT06A  SPBINGa 


of  the  Pavilion,  near  Spring  Avenue.  The  water  wells  iip  through  an 
exposed  glass  tube  3  ft.  high  and  15  inches  in  diameter,  in  which  the  free 
gas  causes  frequent  ebullitions.  It  is  the  least  saline  of  the  Saratoga 
waters,  and  is  said  to  resemble  the  Nassau  Spring  iu  Germany.  It  is  a 
pleasant  and  invigorating  beverage. 

The  High  Book  Spring  is  just  N.  of  the  Seltzer,  and  is  the  greatest 
curiosity  of  Saratoga.  It  flows  from  a  crater-like  opening  in  a  dome- 
shaped  mass  of  tufa-rock  nearly  4  ft.  high,  whiqh  has  been  formed  by  the 
precipitation  of  carbonate  of  lime  formerly  held  in  solution  in  the  water. 
This  rock  has  been  lifted  off  once,  in  order  to  allow  of  the  removal  of  the 
underlying  logs  and  mud.  A  graceful  Saracenic  canopy  has  been  built 
over  it.  The  water  is  tonic  and  cathartic,  ami  is  actively  beneficial  in  a 
large  number  of  diseases.  It  is  decidedly  saline  to  the  taste,  containing 
in  each  gallon,  390  grains  of  chloride  of  sodium,  31  of  bi-carbonate  of  lime, 
and  55  of  b' -carbonate  of  magnesia. 

The  Star  Spring  is  near  the  High  Bock,  and  was  formerly  called  "  the 
President  "  and  'Hhe  Iodine."  A  large  bottling-house  is  situated  here, 
and  immense  quantities  of  f!l^e  water  are  shipped  thence  to  New  England, 
where  It  is  the  favorite  spring.  It  is  also  put  up  in  barrels  and  kegs  hucd 
with  tin  or  porcelain.  It  is  mildly  cathartic  in  its  effect,  and  pleasantly 
acid  to  the  taste,  and  is  beneficial  for  rheumatism  and  cutaneous  diseases. 

The  Empire  Spring  is  just  E.  of  the  Star,  at  the  foot  of  a  detached 
bluff  of  Mohawk  limestone.  It  was  opened  in  1846,  has  pleasant  sur* 
roundings,  and  is  provided  with  a  large  bottling-house.  It  is  ver}'  similar 
iu  its  ingredients  and  effects  to  the  Congress  water.  Near  this  is  the 
Med  Spring,  a  strong  ferruginoiis  water  which  is  of  much  efficacy  in  cases 
of  dyspepsia  and  skin  diseases,  also  in  improving  the  blood.  It  is  prin- 
cipally used  for  bathing.  The  "  A  "  Spring  is  near  by  (on  Spring  Ave- 
nue), and  is  a  valuable  cathartic  remedy.  It  is  pleasant  to  the  taste,  and 
is  exported  in  large  quantities. 

The  Ezoelsior  Spring  is  about  1^  M.  N.  K  of  Congress  Park,  and  is 
reached  by  Spring  Avenue,  or  by  a  forest-path  turning  off  near  the  cross- 
ing of  Lake  and  East  Avenues.  It  is  in  Excelsior  Park,  which  has  been 
laid  out  for  a  suburb  of  villas,  and  near  Excelsior  Lake,  whence  the 
village  gets  its  water-supply.  This  spring  is  pleasant  to  the  taste,  and 
mildly  cathartic  in  operation.  Great  quantities  of  it  are  shipped  to  the 
cities.  Near  this  place  are  the  Minnehaha,  Union,  and  other  sources, 
forming  a  group  known  as  the  Ten  Springs.  The  Mansion  House  ($10- 
20  a  week)  is  situated  in  this  vicinity.  Tlie  Eureka  Spring  is  reached 
by  following  the  park-like  valley  for  a  few  rods  beyond  the  Excelsior.  It 
is  situated  amid  charming  forest  scenery,  and  is  gaining  popularity  as  a 
cathartic  agent,  beneficial  for  cases  of  dyspepsia  and  for  diseases  of  the 
digestive  oigans.    Near  this  place  is  the  Eureka  White-Suijphur  Spring, 


SARATOGA  SPRINGS. 


JtmUe  10,      99 


having  a  copioiis  flow  of  water  charged  with  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  This 
is  one  of  the  best  hepatic  spiings  in  the  State,  and  is  efficient  in  many 
diseases  of  the  glands,  skin,  and  stomach.  It  is  taken  internally  and 
externally,  —  the  latter  at  the  bath-houses  (50c.  a  bath)'  in  the  vicinity. 
Stages  nm  hourly  from  the  great  hotels  to  the  Eureka  Spring*}  (20c. ). 

The  Geyser  Spouting  Spring  is  1^  M.  S.  W.  of  the  village,  on  the 
Ballston  Road  (omnibus  fare,  20c.).  A  shaft  was  bored  (in  1870)  to  the 
depth  of  140  ft.,  where  it  stnick  a  vein  of  water,  which  has  since  con- 
tinued to  flow  copiously.  It  rises  through  ft  pipe  of  block-tin,  and  forms 
a  jet  25  ft.  high,  agitateJ.  by  carbonic-acid  gas.  This  is  the  coldest  of  the 
waters  of  Saratoga,  and  has  a  larger  amount  of  mineral  matter  than  any 
other.  It  is  strongly  cathartic,  and  is  lively  and  pleasant  to  the  taste.  A 
pretty  little  park  is  being  made  in  this  vicinity. 

The  Glacier  Spouting  Spring  is  near  the  Geyser,  and  was  opened,  in 
1871,  by  sinking  an  artesian  well  to  the  depth  of  300  ft.  in  the  Trenton 
limestone.  The  water  spouts  to  a  considerable  height,  and  has  a  large 
proportion  of  mineral  matter.  It  is  a  powerful  cathartic,  and  is  bene- 
ficial in  diseases  of  the  Uver  and  kidneys.  The  uEtna,  Triton,  and  EUia 
Springs  are  also  in  this  vicinity. 

Saratoga  Lake  is  4  M.  from  the  village,  and  is  reached  by  the  favorite 
drive  called  the  Boulevard  (entered  between  Congress  Hall  and  the  Park; 
omnibuses  out  and  back,  75c.).  The  Boulevard  is  100  ft.  wide,  is  lined 
with  trees  on  the  sides  and  in  the  centre,  and  commands  distant  views  of 
the  Green  Mts.  It  passes  near  the  race-course  and  the  trout-ponds. 
*  Moon's  Lake  House  is  the  favorite  of  the  lake-hotels,  and  furnishes  rare 
dinners  of  fish  and  game,  at  high  prices.  The  fried  potatoes  of  this 
house  are  considered  a  great  delicacy.  Boats  and  fishing-tackle  may  be 
obtained  here.  The  lake  was  called  Kayaderoga  by  the  Indians,  and  is 
8  M.  long  by  2J  M.  wide.  The  scenery  is  quiet,  although  the  views  from 
Chapman's  Hill  (1  M.  from  the  Lake  House)  and  Wagman's  Hill  (4  M.) 
are  pleasing,  and  embrace  the  panorama  of  the  Kayaderosseras  Mts.  On 
the  shore  is  Frank  Leslie's  elegant  villa  of  Interlachen.  Lake  Lovely  is  a 
sequestered  pond  among  the  hills  near  the  Boulevard.  It  is  a  favorite 
resort  for  picnics,  and  has  some  fine  woodland  scenery.  The  Greenfield 
Hills,  the  falls  at  Corinth,  Waring  Hill,  and  Lake  Luzerne  are  visited 
from  Saratoga. 

Saratoga  is  an  Iroquois  word  which  means  "place  of  herrings  "  (applied  to  the 
stream  now  called  Fish  Creek).  The  mineral  waters  were  used  by  the  Indians 
centuries  ago,  and  were  regarded  with  peculiar  veneration.  In  August,  1767, 
while  Sir  William  Johnson,  the  friend  and  whilom  leader  of  the  Mohawks,  was 
suffnring  from  disease  induced  by  a  bad  wound  received  at  the  Battle  of  Lake 
George,  the  tribe  held  a  solen  n  council  and  determined  to  conduct  him  to  "the 
medicine  Spring  of  the  Great  Spirit."  He  was  borne  on  a  litter  to  the  High  Bock 
Spring,  and  was  its  first  white  visitor.  In  4  days  his  strength  returned  rapidly, 
and  he  wrote  to  Gen.  Schuyler :  "  My  dear  Schuyler,  I  have  just  returned  fh)m  a 
most  amazing  spiing  which  almost  effected  my  cure."   The  tidings  soon  spread 


«  7T 


11    '4 


100    JtoutelO.    THE  BATTLES  OF  STILLWATEa 


11   ! 


j 


wnong  the  coloniflts,  and  the  Spring  began  to  be  visited  by  the  forest-trails.  In 
1773,  Dirick  Scowton  built  a  small  lofj-tavem  near  the  High  Rock,  but  the  Indians 
drove  him  away,  and  it  was  opened  m  1774  by  a  Rhode-Islander.  The  land  was 
on  Rip  Van  Dam's  section  of  the  Kayaderosseras  Patent.  From  1776  until  1783 
no  one  lived  there,  although  the  officers  of  Gates's  army  frequently  visited  the 
place.  Norton  came  in  1783,  and  in  1789  came  Gideon  Putnam,  who  erected  the 
first  hotel.  Gen.  Schuyler  spent  the  sunmer  of  1788  in  a  tent  near  the  High 
Rock,  and  built  a  house  where  he  dwelt  in  subsequent  summers.  Large  hotels 
were  erected  after  1816,  and  new  springs  were  opened  and  made  available.  Several 
destructive  fires  have  swept  through  the  village ;  and  the  great  hotels  of  the 
present  day  are  of  late  construction. 

The  Battles  of  Stillwater 

were  fought  about  15  M.  S.  E.  of  Saratoga  Springs.  In  June,  1777,  Gen.  Burgoyne 
marched  S.  from  Canada  with  a  large  and  well-appointed  British  army,  sti-ength- 
«ned  by  German,  Canadian,  and  Indian  auxiliaries.  This  force  was  to  meet  an- 
other British  army  advancing  from  New  York,  somewhere  on  the  line  of  the 
Hudson  River,  and  thus  cut  the  rebellious  colonies  in  two,  to  be  subjugated  in 
detail.  Bui-goyne  took  Fort  Ticonderoga,  July  6 ;  defeated  St.  Clair's  army  ;  and 
lost  a  large  detachment  of  his  best  German  troops,  who  were  cut  off"  by  the  Ver- 
monters  at  Bennington,  Aug.  16.  On  Sept.  14  the  British  army  crossed  the  Hud- 
son and  encan)ped  at  Saratoga,  near  the  American  works,  wliere  lay  a  strong 
force  under  Gen.  Gates.  Sept.  19,  Burgoyne  attacked  Gates  in  3  divisions,  at  the 
point  of  the  bayonet.  Morgan's  Virginians  and  Dearborn's  New  Hampshire  men 
checked  the  Canadians,  after  a  furious  fight  in  the  forest.  Near  the  Middle 
Ravine  occurred  the  most  serious  fighting  of  the  day,  when  Arnold  attacked  the 
enemy  with  the  Ist  and  2d  N.  Y.  troops,  the  2d,  8th,  and  9th  Mass.  regiments,  the 
1st,  2d,  and  3d  N.  H.,  and  Morgan's  Virginians.  The  British  9th,  20th,  21st,  24th, 
62d,  and  grenadier  regiments,  with  a  swarm  of  Germans  and  Indians,  pressed 
forward  with  the  bayonet ;  but  "  Arnold  led  the  van  of  his  men,  and  fell  upon  the 
foe  with  the  fury  and  impetuosity  of  a  tiger."  The  British  leaders,  fresh  from  the 
wars  of  Flanders,  said  that  they  had  never  known  so  long  and  hot  a  fire.  At 
nightfall  the  enemy  held  the  field,  though  they  had  lost  over  600  men.  The 
American  loss  was  319.  The  armies  now  began  to  throw  up  fortifications,  within 
caimon-shot  of  each  other,  and,  on  Oct.  7,  Burgoyne  made  another  attack  on  the 
Republican  lines.  But  the  Americans  left  their  works  and  charged  upon  the 
hostile  field-batteries ;  while  Morgan  routed  the  British  r.  wing.  The  German 
troops  who  formed  the  centre  stood  firm  in  the  swash  of  the  rout  until  Arnold 
fell  upon  them  with  his  brigade  of  New-Englanders.  Gen".  Fraser,  tVe  life  of  the 
British  army,  was  mortally  wounded  ;  and  Gen.  Ten  Broeck  brought  3,000  fi^sh 
N.  Y.  troops  into  action.  A  panic  now  seized  the  royalists,  and  they  fled  to  their 
fortified  camps,  closely  pursued  by  the  victors,  who,  under  Arnold's  lead,  stormed 
the  works  in  several  places  under  a  heavy  fire  of  grape-shot.  Night  then  settled 
upon  the  field ;  and  the  enemy,  having  lost  700  men  in  the  action,  sullenly  re- 
treated, leaving  their  trains  and  hospitals.  The  fords  of  the  Hudson  were  guarded 
by  Fellows's  New  England  brigade  and  batteries ;  and  Burgoyne  was  forced  to 
encamp  at  Schuylorville.  Here  he  was  confronted  by  9,000  Continental  troops 
and  4,000  N.  Y.  and  Eastern  militia  ;  his  Indian  and  Canadian  auxiliaries  deserted 
en  masse;  the  camp  was  incessantly  cannonaded  by  the  American  batteries ;  and 

{►rovisions  gave  out  entirely.  Oct.  17,  Burgoyne's  army  (consisting  of  3,379 
Tritons  and  2,412  Germans)  laid  down  their  arms.  The  artillery  train  consisted 
of  42  pieces  ;  and  among  tlie  captive  officers  were  6  members  of  Parliament.  The 
army  was  held  in  captivity  until  the  close  of  the  war  (over  6  years) ;  first  at 
Cambridge,  Mass.,  ana  afterwards  at  Charlottesville,  Va.  As  a  result  of  this  vic- 
torious campaign.  Continental  money  rose  20  per  cent ;  the  militia  hastened  to 
the  camps  ;  Chatham  and  Burke  denounced  the  war,  in  the  British  Parliament ; 
Spain,  Holland,  Russia,  and  Rome  spoke  cheering  words  to  America  ;  and  France 
acknowledged  the  independence  of  the  United  States.  Large  sums  of  money 
have  recently  been  raised  for  a  monument  to  be  erected  on  the  surrender-ground  ; 
and  it  is  hoped  that  it  may  be  dedicated  in  1876. 

Sehaylerrlll*  {*  Goldsmith  House)  is  12  M.  E.  of  Saratoga  Springs  (daily 
BtageX  at  the  confluence  of  Fish  Creek  and  the  Hudson  Blver.   It  is  a  pleasant 


■m 


'm 


4 
m. 

'■}■ 


FORT  EDWARD. 


R.,.^10.    101 


est-trails.  In 
ut  the  Indianv 

The  land  was 
L776  until  1788 
tly  visited  the 
ho  erected  the 
near  the  High 
Large  hotels 
lable.    Several 

hotels  of  the 


Gen.  Burgoyn* 
imiy,  strength- 
as  to  meet  an- 
the  line  of  the 
e  subjugated  in 
lir's  army ;  and 
,  off  by  the  Ver- 
•ossed  the  Hud- 
re  lay  a  strong 
livisions,  at  the 
Hampshire  men 
ear  the  Middle 
>ld  attacked  the 
I.  regiments,  the 
20th,  2l8t,  24th, 
[iidians,  pressed 
nd  fell  upon  the 
3,  fresh  from  the 
hot  a  fire.    At 
500  men.    The 
flcations,  within 
er  attack  on  the 
arged  upon  the 
f.    The  German 
ut  until  Arnold 
r,  the  life  of  the 
ight  3,000  fVesh 
hey  fled  to  their 
's  lead,  stormed 
ght  then  settled 
ion,  sullenly  re- 
on  were  guarded 
e  was  forced  to 
itinental  troops 
iliaries  deserted 
I  batteries;  and 
siBting  of  3,879 
train  consisted 
arliament.    The 
years);  first  at 
irisultofthisvlc- 
itia  hastened  to 
ish  Parliament; 
ica :  and  France 
sums  of  money 
rrender-ground ; 

_  Springs  (daily 
It  is  A  pleasant 


village  on  the  line  of  the  projected  Troy  h  Whitehall  R.  R.  ;  and  has  4  churches, 
the  old  Schuyler  mansion,  and  the  sites  of  several  ancient  forts.  A  strong  redoubt 
was  erected  here  by  the  French  army  of  the  Baron  Dieskau,  in  17iJ'5  ;  and  near 
this  fort  Burgoyne's  troops  laid  down  their  arms  in  1777,  after  a  campaign  which 
"  left  the  country  stripped  of  nearly  every  evidence  of  civilized  occujiatlon  and 
culminatefl  in  one  of  tlie  16  decisive  battles  of  the  world."  A  bridge  800  ft.  long 
crosses  from  Schuylerville  to  Galesville,  near  wliich  is  an  ancient  hill-fort  dating 
from  1709  ;  and  also  the  *  Dionondahowa  Falls,  on  the  Batten  Kill.  A  pleasant 
river-road  runs  12  M.  N.  to  Fort  Edward,  passing  Fort  Miller  («  M.),  which  was 
built  by  Sir  Wm.  Johnson  in  1755.  Once,  when  pursued  by  a  party  of  Indians, 
Putnam  escaped  by  boldly  steering  his  boat  down  the  white  whirl  of  the  Fort 
Miller  Foils. 


The  Montreal  train  passes  N.  E.  from  Saratoga  Springs  across  the  thinly 
populated  town  of  Wilton,  with  the  Palmertown  Mts.  on  the  1.  Stations, 
Gansevoort  and  Moreau,  beyond  which  the  Hudson  River  is  crossed  at 
Fort  Edward  {Eldridge^s  ;  St.  James  Hotel),  a  village  of  3,492  inhabi- 
tants, with  two  banks  and  several  paper-mills  and  blast-furnaces.  The 
spacious  buildings  of  the  Collegiate  Institute  are  seen  on  the  1.  Lake 
George  is  reached  by  a  branch  R.  R.  diverging  here  (see  Route  11). 

In  1690  Gen.  Winthrop  encamped  here  with  a  colonial  army  on  the  march  to 
attack  Montreal ;  and  in  1709  Schuyler  fortified  the  place  and  garrisoned  it  with 
450  British  regulars.  It  becam«j  an  important  point  on  the  great  milifciry  route 
between  the  French  and  English  colonies,  since  here  began  a  land  transit  between 
the  water-ways  of  the  Hudson  River  and  Lake  Champlain.  In  1744  Lydius,  the 
Indian  fur-trader,  built  here  a  fortified  jwst,  which  was  soon  destroyed  by  tlie 
French  ;  and  in  1755  Fort  Lyman  (afterwards  called  Fort  Edward)  was  built  at 
the  confluence  of  a  broad  creek  and  the  Hudson  River.  The  rarapai-ts  were  16  ft. 
high  and  22  ft.  thick,  were  flanked  by  4  bastions,  and  were  boi-dered  by  a  broad 
wet  ditch.  Putnam  repulsed  an  attack  of  the  Indians  on  this  post ;  and  in  1759 
Lord  Amherst  organized  here  the  grand  army  of  11,000  men,  with  which  the  Con- 
quest of  Canada  was  effected,  terminating  that  Seven  Years'  War  which  cost 
Great  Britain  $560,000,000,  "and  laid  one  of  the  largest  foundation-stones  of  that 
national  debt  under  which  she  now  groans."  In  1777  the  fort  was  held  by  5,500 
Americans,  who  retired  before  the  advance  of  Burgoyne ;  and  the  beautiful  Jane 
M'Crea  was  murdered  by  Indians,  near  the  village,  under  circumstances  which 
have  caused  her  story  to  become  one  of  the  saddest  in  the  New  World  history. 

Fort  Ann  was  erected  in  1757  at  the  N.  B.  end  of  the  tram-way  and  portage 
fW>in  Fort  Edward  ;  and  Wood  Creek  was  navigable  thence  to  Lake  Champlain. 
1  M.  N.  W.  Putnam  and  500  Rangers  were  ambushed  and  defeated  by  the  French 
partisan  chief  Molang,  with  a  large  force  of  French  and  Indians  (Aug.,  1758).  The 
Rangers  suffered  fearfidly,  and  Putnam  was  captured,  and  was  being  burnt  at  the 
stake  when  Molang  rescued  him  from  the  savages.  |  M.  N.  of  Fort  Ann  the  R. 
R.  traverses  the  rocky  defile  where  the  garrison  of  the  fort  attacked  the  9th 
British  regiment  (July  8, 1777).  After  a  long  and  obstinate  conflict,  the  Ameri- 
cans were  forced  to  retreat. 

.  Tlie  train  runs  N.  E.  fh)m  Fort  Edward,  near  the  Clhamplain  Canal  to 
Fort  Ann,  whence  it  descends  the  valley  of  Wood  Creek.  On  the  r.  are 
the  Cossayuna  highlands,  and  on  the  1.  are  the  uninhabited  defiles  of  the 
Palmertown  and  Fort  Ann  Mts.  Station,  Whitehall  {Hall's  Hotel),  an 
important  lumbering-village  with  4,322  inhabitants.  It  is  picturesquely 
situated  in  a  deep  and  rugged  ravine  at  the  foot  of  Skene's  Mt.  The  rail- 
road to  Montreal  connects  here. 


102    RwUlO. 


RUTLAND. 


It  was  fortifled  at  an  early  date,  and  In  1763  a  colony  was  established  here  hy 
Col.  Skene  (a  veteran  of  Cartagena,  Fontenoy,  Culloden,  Ticonderoga,  and  Hava- 
na). The  Indian  name  KahclMquana  was  supplanted  by  Skeneslsorough,  and  a 
large  stone  mansion  and  military  works  were  erected.  It  was  captured  by  Her- 
rii;K  and  the  Qreen  Mt.  Boys  in  1775 ;  and  in  1779  was  confiscated  by  the  State  of 
New  fork  on  account  of  Skene's  adhesion  to  the  king.  July  7,  1777,  the  British 
fleet  here  engaged  the  Americans  fleeing  ttom  Ticonderoga,  destroyed  several  gal- 
leys, and  took  12S  cannon  and  a  vast  ^linount  of  supplies.  Burgoyne's  army  re- 
mained  here  3  weeks,  and  the  ruins  of  his  military  works  are  to  be  seen  on  the 
heights.  Benedict  Arnold's  fleet  was  built  in  this  harbor ;  and  hither  retired 
Macdonongh's  victorious  fleet  with  the  captured  British  squadron  (1814).  The 
flag-ships  Saratoga  and  Confiance  sank  at  their  moorings. 

The  train  runs  N.  E.  from  Whitehall  across  Low  Hampton;  then  pascis 
the  Poultney  River,  and  entera  tie  ';ate  of  Vermont.  A  richly  pro- 
ductive slate  region  is  now  trave.  ^ed,  and  the  line  passes  Fairhaven  and 
Hy^viUe  (at  the  foot  of  Lake  Bomaseen,  which  is  8  M.  long,  and  is  lined 
with  quarries  of  marble  and  slate).  Castieton  {Sanford  House)  is  a 
pretty  village,  which  contains  the  State  Normal  School  and  5  churches. 
3(X),000,000  white  soapstone  slate-pencils,  1,000  billiard-beds,  2,000  slate 
mantels,  and  vast  amounts  of  marble,  slate,  and  marbleized  slate  are 
turned  out  here  yeaiiy.  7  M.  N.  is  Hubbardton,  where  Eraser's  light 
infantry  routed  the  American  rear-guard  retreating  from  Ticonderoga, 
507  men  being  lost  on  both  sides.  Passing  now  the  great  marble-quarries 
at  W.  Rutland  (stages  to  Clarendon  Springs),  the  train  soon  enters 
Rutland.  The  Central  Vermont  R.  R.  is  now  taken  from  Rutland  to 
Burlington  (68  M. ),  with  fine  views  of  the  Green  Mts.  on  the  r.  Bat- 
land  (*  Bates  House  ;  Bardwell)  is  a  well-situated  and  prosperous  town 
of  10,000  inhabitants,  with  extensive  marble-works  and  a  lucrative 
country  trade.  The  marble  sells  at  the  quarriei^  for  a  higher  price  than 
does  Italian  marble  delivered  iii  New  York.  There  are  several  fine 
churches  here ;  and  the  Court-House  and  Post-Office  are  worthy  of 
notice.  Pleasant  excursions  may  be  made  to  the  Clarendon  Springs  (6 
M.  S.;  large  summer  hotel),  TCillington  Peak  (9  M.  E.),  and  Sutherland 
Falls  (6  M.  N.).  The  Montreal  train  passes  the  quarries  of  statuary- 
marble  neav  the  graceful  Sutherland  Falls ;  Brandon,  with  its  great 
quarries,  kaolin  paint-works,  and  Howe's  scales-factory ;  Leicester  June- 
Ucrn,  with  a  branch  R.  R.  to  Ticonderoga  and  Port  Henry ;  Salisbury, 
near  the  favorite  summer-resort  at  Lake  Dunmore;  marble-producing 
Middlebury  {Addison  House),  the  seat  of  Middlebury  College;  and  the 
little  city  of  Vergennes  {Stevens  House),  beautifully  situated  at  the 
falls  on  Otter  Creek,  viewing  the  Green  and  Adirondack  Mts.,  and 
near  the  summer  resorts  of  Elgin  Spring  and  the  Fort  Cassin  House. 
From  Burlington,  the  train  runs  to  Montreal  in  103  M.,  passing  Es- 
sex Junction;  St.  Albans  (*  Weldon  House),  a  pretty  village  of  6,000 
inhabitants,  the  chief  dairy-market  of  New  England,  with  fine  public 
buildings  and  immense  R.  R.  workshops;  High^te  Springs  {*  Franklin 


RUTLAND. 


RtMtelO.      103 


JTbuse),  a  favorite  resort  near  Missisquoi  Bay  and  the  Missisqnoi  and 
Sheldon  Springs ;  and  the  Canadian  town  of  St.  John%  on  the  Richelieu 
River.  (For  a  more  detailed  description  of  the  route  from  Whitehall  to. 
Montreal,  see  Osgood's  New  EngJ^md,  Routes  28,  26,  and  29.) 


The  Troy  (i'nd  BosUm  R.  R.  runs  ftom  Troy  to  N,  Adams,  Mas&  (48  M.),  whe»e  it 
Joins  the  Hoosac  Tunnel  lines  from  tlie  E.  Stations :  Lansingburgh  (Park  Hotel), 
a  prosperous  manufacturing  village,  with  6,872  inhabitants ;  Melrose :  Sohaghti- 
coke ;  Pittstown,  where  the  line  enters  the  Hoosick  Valley ;  and  JohrmnvilU, 
whence  a  branch  R.  B.  runs  N.  15  M. ,  across  Cambridge  and  Easton,  to  Greets 
mch,  a  prosperous  factory- village  on  the  Batten  Kill,  7-8  M.  E.  of  Schuylerville 
(see  page  101).  At  Eagle  Brldsa  (DaMon  House),  a  R  R  diverges  to  Rutland ; 
and  from  near  the  uiauufacturing  village  of  Hoosick  Falls,  a  branch  line  runs  to 
Bennington.  In  the  town  of  Hoosick,  near  the  WaUoomsac  River,  was  fought 
the  Battle  of  Bennington  (Aug.  16, 1777),  when  Gen.  Stark,  with  1,800  men  of 
New  England,  defeated  Baume  and  Breyman,  who  were  leading  a  force  of  Ger- 
mans, Canadians,  and  Indians  on  a  raid  into  Vermont.  The  battle  was  long  and 
obstinate,  and  the  enemy  lost  937  men  and  4  cannon.  The  16tb  of  August  has 
been  observed  as  a  holiday  in  Bennington  ever  since  the  battle.  The  train  runs 
S.  E.  fW)m  Hoosick  Falls,  intersects  the  Harlem  Extension  R.  R  (see  page  62) 
at  Petersburgh  Junction,  crosses  Pownal,  in  the  8.  W.  corner  of  Vermont,  ana 
passes  IVilliamstmvn,  Mass. ,  the  seat  of  Williams  College,  near  the  summer  resort 
of  ♦Greylock  Hall,  at  the  Sand  Springs.  Thence  it  jtasses  up  the  Hoosac  Valley 
to  N.  Adams  (*  Wilscm  House),  a  busy  manufacturing  place  among  the  Berk- 
shire Hills,  and  2  M.  from  the  entrance  do  the  ^Hoosac  Tunnel  (see  Osgood's  Neno 
Englandj  Route  23). 

Tro^  to  Rutland. 

By  the  Rutland  an^!  Washington  R.  R.,  in  f!*  M.  The  Troy  and  Boston  R.  R. 
is  taken  for  23^  M.  to  Ea^le  Bridge,  whence  the  R.  and  W..  train  diverges  to  the 
N.,  up  the  Owl  Kill  Valley  ai\d  across  the  town  of  Cambridge,  famous  for  its 
growth  of  flax.  Station,  Cambridge  (FenUn*  Hotel),  near  the  picturesque  valley 
of  Owl  Kill  Passing  through  the  lake-studded  Taghkanick  Hills,  the  train 
enters  the  valley  of  the  Batten  Kill ;  and  beyond  Shushan  it  reaches  Saiem,  a 
pleasant  village  and  semi-capital  of  Washington  County.  To  the  E.  are  Mts. 
Iki'iinox  and  .^k>luH,  near  Manchester,  Vt. ;  and  a  few  M.  W.  is  Cossaynna  Lake, 
a  beautiful  sheet  3  M.  long,  surrounded  with  high  hills  and  dotted  with  green 
islands.  High  up  among  the  Cosaayuna  highlands  is  Argyle  Lake.  The  train 
now  enters  Verm«>nt,  and  passes  the  rur?'  sts^tions  of  Rupeit  and  Pawlet  (famous 
for  large  potato  crops).  Bendihg  back  into  N.  Y.  Stato,  do\vn  the  valley  of  the 
turbulent  Pawlet  River,  rich  intervales  are  traversed,  V>y  raial  stations,  and  the 
line  re-enters  Vermont,  and  passes  Poaltney  (2  hotels).  This  is  a  pleasant 
Tillage,,  where  Horace  Greeley  learnt  tke  printer  s  art,  and  Jared  Sparks  mastered 
the  carpenter's  trade.  The  old  Ripley  Female  College  is  now  used  as  a  summer 
boarding-house  (250  guests,  $10-12  a  week)  Excursions  are  made  to  Lake 
Bomaseen,  Carter's  Palls,  and  *  lake  St.  Catharine  (St.  Catharine  Hotel),  which 
is  5  M.  long,  and  stands  amoD'i  flne  hill-scenery.  8  M.  E.  of  Poultney  are  the 
MiddUtown  Springs  (*Montv'jrt  Hotel,  300  guests).  The  line  now  traverses  a 
region  of  slate-quarries  and  rolling  hills,  and  reaches  Castleton  station. 


! 


I 


103  a.    Route  10  a.     LAKE  CHAMPLAIN. 


10  J.    Albany  to  MontreaL 

By  the  Champlain  Division  of  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Company's  RaiU 
roads,  in  10  - 11  hours.  Wagner's  palace-cars  are  run  on  this  route.  Cars  are 
changed  at  Rouse's  Point  The  track  of  the  t^a^toga  Division  is  I'ollo'.veil  frrtm 
Albany  by  Saratoga  to  Whit«>,liall  (see  Route  10),  wliere  the  Cliamplain  Division 
Is  entered.  Ueats  on  tlie  r.  bide  of  tlie  trzin  are  preferable,  as  giving  nnmy  i^haa- 
ant  views  of  Iiake  Champlain. 

StatloBB.— Albany  to  Whitehall,  71  M. ;  Chubb's  T)oek,  78;  Drtsdeu,  ¥1 : 
Putnam,  80;  Patterson,  91;  AfMlson  Junction,  95;  Crown  Point,  1<:3:  Port 
Henry,  111;  Westport,  122;  Wuuiiam's  Mills,  125;  Wlmllomtbuig,  l?y ;  WiU» 
borough;  Port  Kent,  148;  Vnlcour,  155;  Plattsbur^jh.  ICl;  BiUiikmantown,  166; 
Chazy,  171;  Sciota,  176;  Mooer's  Junction,  172 ;  ChampiaiU,  170  ;  Rouse's  Point, 
188 ;  Montreal,  233.  The  express-trains  ruu  frtnn  Whitelial'  to  Port  Hem-y  in  IJ 
hrs.,  to  Plattsbui^h  in  31  hro.,  and  to  Rouse's  Point  Ic  5  hrs.  The  line  now 
uses  the  rails  of  the  Ogdensburg  &  Lake  Cliamplain  K.  R  (Central  Ve.'n.nnt) 
from  Moo«3i  's  to  Rouse's  Point ;  but  will  soon  construct  a  uew  railroad  from 
Chazy  t«}  Rouse's  Point 

On  leavii:.g  Whitehall  the  train  passes  to  the  N.,  and  rooii  crosses  the 
outlet  of  South  Bay,  with  the  Whitehall  Narrows  on  the  r.  For  ovei  an 
hour  the  track  is  foKc-wed  to  the  N  ,  bending  frequently  around  bold 
ridges  and  curving  along  lite  inhere  of  the  narrow  lake.  The  highlands  of 
Dresden  and  Putnam  are  « i;  iiie  1.,  and  on  the  r.  are  the  hills  of  Vermont, 
across  the  water.  At  Fu'ierson  a  branch  railroad  diverges  to  the  W., 
which  soun  crosses  the  outlet  of  Lake  George  (near  Ticonderoga),  and 
sweeps  around  Mt.  Defiance  to  Baldwin,  the  landing-place  of  the  Lake- 
George  steamboats.  The  branch  is  5  M.  longf  and  the  fare  is  75c.  About 
10  minutes'  walk  from  Baldwin  is  the  Bogers-Sook  Honse  ($S  a  day, 
$li  a  week),  anew  summer-hotel  on  a  beautiful  and  far-viewing  promon- 
tory between  two  quiet  bays,  near  the  foot  of  Rogers's  Slide. 

The  Montreal  train  next  crosses  the  broad  bay  under  Mt.  Defiance, 
with  view's  of  Fort  Ticonderoga.  At  Addison  Junction,  2  M.  from  Ticon- 
deroga  village,  the  line  meets  the  railroad  which  diverges  from  .the  Cen- 
tral Vermont  line  at. Z«ices<er /unction. 

Arrangements  have  recently  oeen  made  by  which  travellers  can  go  fhim  Lake 
George  to  the  White  Mountaiufi  in  a  day.  Morning  stages  leave  the  Rogers-Rock 
House  for  Addison  Junction,  where  the  train  is  taken.  Time  for  dinner  is  given 
at  Burlington,  whence  the  traveller  reaches  the  mountains  (at  su()per-tiqie)  by 
way  of  Moutpelier,  and  the  Montpelier  &  Wells-River  R.  R.  Going  in  the  op{)o- 
site  direction  the  tourist  dines  at  Montpelier,  and  reaches  Addison  Junction  in 
time  to  be  carried  on  the  stage  (5  M. ;  75c.)  to  tlie  Rogers-Rock  House  to  supper. 

The  train  now  runs  to  the  N.  over  a  comparatively  level  and  thinly  popu- 
lated country,  with  frequent  views  over  Lake  Champlain.  Beyond  the 
hamlet  and  station  of  Crovm  Point  it  closely  approaches  ^he  lake,  and 
then  bends  to  the  1.,  with  the  ruined  fortress  of  Crown  Point  on  the  r. 
(scarcely  visible),  crosses  Bulwagga  Bay  on  a  long  bridge,  and  reaches  the 
iron-manufacturing  village  of  Port  Henry,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Kaya- 
derosseras  Mts.    Fine  views  of  the  lake  are  now  afforded  on  the  r.,  as  the 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


Route  11.    103  (, 


mpany'8  RaiU 
lite.  Cars  are 
loUo'ive<I  fi'Ma 
plain  Division 
ig  luuiiy  I'Ihm- 

Drfc?:dcu,  t'l : 
lit,  1*3:  Port 
i,  1-^S;-  VfWhiT 
aantown,  166; 
Rouse' 4  Point, 
rt  Henry  in  1^ 
The  Hue  now 
tral  Verrrjont) 
railroad  from 


a  crosseiA  the 

For  over  an 

aro\ind  bold 

highlands  of 

i  of  Vermont, 

s  to  the  W., 

ideroga),  and 

of  the  Lake- 

75c.    About 

$  S  a  day, 

ring  promon- 

It.  Defiance, 

from  Ticon- 

om.the  Cen- 

go  from  Lake 

Rogers-Rock 

inner  is  given 

.jper-tiipe)  by 

in  the  opi>o- 

II  Junction  in 

ise  to  supper. 

hinly  popu- 
Beyond  the 
le  lake,  and 
it  on  the  r. 
reaches  the 
the  Kaya- 
■le  r.,  as  the 


'W 


great  iron-works  N.  of  Port  Henry  are  passed.  The  line  soon  turns  far* 
ther  inland,  and  runs  through  a  thinly  settled  region  to  Westp&rt  station, 
which  is  about  1  M.  from  the  pretty  lake-port  of  the  same  name,  on 
Northwest  Bay.  Beyond  this  point  the  lake  is  long  hidden  by  the  huge 
mass  of  Split-Bock  Mt.,  which  is  left  on  the  E.  Near  WfuilloTieburg  the 
Boquet  River  is  crossed  twice,  and  the  line  follows  its  course  to  Wills- 
borough,  where  it  crossc  s  yet  again,  and  soon  approaches  the  broad  waters 
of  Willsborough,  or  Peru,  Bay.  The  scenery  on  this  section  is  of  a  high 
irder  of  beauty  and  impressiveness,  as  the  train  swings  around  the  Trem- 
bleau  Mts.  and  their  connected  ranges,  on  high  grades,  and  often  on  ter- 
races which  are  built  out  on  the  sharp  slopes  of  the  ridges.  There  are 
several  tunnels  and  deep  rock-cuttings,  but  generally  the  lake  is  open  to 
dew,  and  affords  a  series  of  beautiful  prospects,  bounded  by  the  long 
line  of  the  Vermont  mountains.  This  section  of  the  route  is  remarkable 
for  its  bold  and  imposing  scenery,  and  daring  engineering.  21  M.  of  the 
railroad  in  this  region  cost  $3,000,000,  a  very  heavy  expenditure  for 
Eastern  railroad  work.  Above  Port  Douglas  the  broad  expanse  of  Cor- 
laer's  Bay  is  overlooked,  and  islands  are  seen  out  in  the  lake.  Swinging 
around  the  N.  end  of  the  Trembleau  Mts.,  the  line  soon  reaches  Port 
Kent,  whence  a  ferry-boat  runs  to  the  city  of  Burlington,  on  the  Ver- 
mont shore.  Port  Kent  is  the  point  of  departure  for  the  Ausable  Chasm 
(2-3  M.  W.),  and  also  for  the  Saranac  Lakes. 

From  Port  Kent  to  Plattsburgh  the  course  is  over  a  level  and  sandy 
country,  with  occasional  fine  views  of  the  distant  mountains  Soon  after 
crossing  the  Ausable  river  twice,  near  its  mouth,  and  the  Little  Ausable 
River,  the  train  passes  Valcourf  near  the  island  of  the  same  nanie^  off 
which  Arnold  was  defeated  in  a  naval  battle.  The  line  now  lies  nearer 
the  4ake,  crosses  the  Salmon  River,  and  soon  reaches  the  large  and  pros- 
perous village  of  Flattsbnrgli  (see  page  118).  From  this  point  the 
ncenery  is  less  interesting,  as  the  train  leaves  the  vicinity  of  the  lake,  and 
passes  through  the  district  across  which  Sir  George  Ptevost's  army  ad- 
vanced to  its  disastrous  defeat,  in  1814.  At  Mooer'a  Junction  the  train 
is  switched  on  to  the  Central  Vermont  track,  and  nins  thence  E.  to. 
Bonie's  Point  (see  pi^e  120).  The  route  from  Rouse's  Point  to  Mon- 
treal is  described  on  page  121. 

11.  Lake  Oeorge. 

Fort  Edward  is  55  M.  N.  of  Albany  (see  Route  10),  and  is  the  point  at 
which  the  route  to  Lake  George  diverges  from  the  Saratoga  Division 
R.  R.  A  short  branch  railroad  follows  the  Hudson  River  N.  W.  by  the 
prosperous  village  of  Sandy  Hill  (near  Baker's  Falls)  to  Olen'f  FalU 
(*  Rockwell  House,  $  3  a  day,  $  14-  21  a  week  ;  American  House).    This 


104    RmtUlh 


LAKE  GEOEGR 


r 


town  has  8,000  inhabitants,  2  weekly  newspapers,  an  opera-honse,  an  acad> 
emy,  and  a  seminary.  The  *  Soldiers'  Monument  is  a  fine  work  in  Dor- 
Chester  sandstone,  46  ft.  high,  surmounted  by  an  eagle,  and  flanked  by 
life-size  statues  of  soldiers.  The  village  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1864, 
but  has  already  more  than  recovered  its  losses.  Large  saw-mills  and 
paper-mills  are  located  here;  and  immense  quantities  of  black  marble  are 
quarried  for  exportation.  The  jointa  lime  which  is  shipped  from  this 
point  has  a  high  reputation.  The  falls  of  the  Hudson  are  about  50  ft. 
high,  and  are  well  seen  from  the  bridge  below.  This  bridge  rests  at  mid- 
stream  on  a  rocky  islet,  on  which  is  a  cave,  where  "  amid  the  roar  of  this 
very  cataract,  if  romance  may  be  believed,  the  voice  of  Uncas,  the  last  of' 
the  Mohicans,  was  heard  and  heeded;  here  Hawk  Eye  kept  his  vigils; 
here  David  breathed  his  nasal  melody;  and  here  Durban  Heyward,  with 
his  lovely  and  precious  wards,  Alice  and  Cora  Monrr>e,  fell  into  the  hands 
of  the  dark  and  bitter  Mingo  chief."  The  scene  of  Cooper's  novel,  **  The 
Last  of  the  Mohicans,"  was  laid  here.  The  black  marble  cliffs  on  either 
side  contain  many  trilobites  and  other  fossils.  2  M.  above  Olens  Falls  is 
the  great  State  Dam  whence  the  summit  level  of  the  Champlain  Canal  is 
fed,  and  a  mgged  road  leads  through  the  Luzerne  Mts.  to  Lake  Luzerne, 
10-12  M.W. 

Morning  and  evening  stages  leave  Olens  Falls  for  Caldwell,  9  M.  N.  on 
Lake  George.  The  plank-road  runs  across  the  Pine  Plains,  with  glimpses 
of  the  Luzerne  Mts.  on  the  L,  and  the  Palmertown  and  Fort  Ann  Mts.  on 
the  r.  Near  the  HaHf-Way  House  are  the  remains  of  several  ancient  re- 
doubts ;  and  in  this  vicinity  the  daring  French  partisan.  La  Come,  attacked 
a  commissary  train,  burnt  the  wagons,  killed  110  persons,  and  carried  off 
84  prisoners.  Beyond  the  toll-gate  is  Williams's  Bock,  with  a  monument 
erected  by  the  students  of  Williams  College,  to  the  memory  of  Col.  Wil- 
liams, who  fell  here  during  "  the  Bloody  Morning  Scout "  (see  below). 
Near  this  point  is  the  weird  and  sequestered  Bloody  Pond,  into  which  the 
slain  men  of  Williams's  command  were  thrown,  and  there  is  a  legend  that 
its  waters  bore  a  sanguine  hue  for  many  years.  The  road  now  rises  to  a 
point  which  commands  a  fine  *  view  of  Lake  George,  and  the  stage  soon 
reaches  Caldwell^  a  dull  village  at  the  S.  end  of  Lake  George;  which  en- 
joys a  slight  local  distinction  from  the  fact  of  its  beii  g  the  shire-town  of 
Warren  County.  The  *  Fort  WUliam  Henry  Hotel  is  an  imposing  struc- 
ture, situated  on  the  old  garrison  garden  and  fronting  the  lake  (1,200 
guests;  $5a  day  for  transient  visitors).  The  *  Lake  House  is  by  the 
water-side,  on  the  site  of  Montcalm's  siege-batteries  (200  gue»ts ;  $  3.50  a 
day ;  $17-  21  a  week).  There  are  2  village  inns  and  several  boarding- 
houses.-  Stages  run  2-3  times  daily  to  Glens  Falls  ($1.25);  and  to 
Thunnan,  on  the  Adirondack  B.  B.  (9  M.  ;  $1.25).  Hailroads  from  Lu- 
zerne and  Glen's  Falls  have  been  chartered  ;  the  latter  is  not  likely  to  be 


LAKE  GEORGE. 


nouU  U.      105 


bnilt.  Steamers  run  down  the  lake  thrice  daily;  an  hourly  ferry  crosses 
to  Crosbyside.  Row-boats,  60c.  an  hour,  $  1.60-2.00  a  day ;  with  fish- 
erman and  tackle,  $  3  -  4  a  day. 

Rattlejsnake  Cobble  is  near  the  village,  and  commands  a  broad  view 
down  the  lake.  Prospect  and  French  Mts.  are  also  ascended  thence,  and 
afford  superb  Views  of  the  lake  and  its  shores.  Bloody  Pond  (2  M.)  and 
Williams's  Kock  (3i  M.)  are  often  visited.  Nearly  1  M.  S.  E.  is  Fort 
George,  which  was  built  by  Amherst  in  1759.  Much  of  its  stone-work 
has  been  carried  away  and  made  into  lime,  but  'the  embankinents  of  the 
old  lines  still  stretch  through  the  forest.  Fort  Gage  is  J  M.  distant,  and 
th«  remains  of  other  colonial  works  are  found  in  the  vicinity.  The  ruins 
of  Fort  William  Henry  are  just  to  the  K  of  the  great  hotel,  and  are  in 
fair  preservation. 

Lake  George 

vas  flrst  visited  by  Father  Jogaes,  a  French  Jesuit  missionary,  whose  canoe 
entered  ita  quiet  waters  on  the  eve  of  the  festival  of  Corpus  Christi,  1046.  In 
honor  of  that  sacred  anniversary  he  named  these  bright  waters  Le  Lao  du  St. 
Sacrement  ('  *  The  Lalte  of  the  Blessed  Sacrament "),  and  then  passed  on  to  his  he- 
roic martyrdom  at  the  hands  of  the  Mohawks,  fulfilling  the  prophecy  which  he 
made  on  leaving  Montreal,  "  Ibo,  nee  redibo.'*  For  over  a  century  the  lake  was 
known  in  the  border  chronicles  as  the  path  of  hostile  incursions  or  of  religious 
devotees  passing  to  the  land  of  the  tierce  heathen  Mohawks.  Courcelles,  Tracey, 
Schuyler,  Menteth,  —  French,  Dutch,  Indians,  English, — diversified  the  record. 
In  1098  the  Count  de  Frontenac  led  down  the  lake  450  soldiers  of  France  and  200 
Indians,  and  destroyed  the  Mohawk  castles  in  Central  N.  Y.  He  was  hotly  pur- 
sued to  these  shores,  but  escaped  on  the  ice  with  his  plunder  and  captives.  At 
tlie  flrst  American  Congress  (held  at  Albany,  June  19,  1754)  it  was  decided  that 
the  Lakes  Champlain  and  George  should  be  delivered  f^m  and  fortified  against 
the  French  aggressions.  William  Johnson  was  put  in  command  of  the  colonial 
army,  and  a  train  of  artillery  was  procured.  (These  cannon  were  all  captured  by 
the  French  at  Fort  William  Henry ;  retaken  by  the  English  at  Ticonderoga ;  fell 
into  the  hands  of  the  Vermonters  when  Ticonderoga  surrendered  ;  v^ere  dravm  to 
Cambridge  on  sledges,  and  did  notable  service  in  the  American  bombardment  of 
Boston.)  Having  concluded  a  league  witli  the  Six  Nations,  Johnson  advanced  his 
forces  to  St.  Sacrement,  which  he  named  Lake  George,  "  not  only  in  honor  of 
his  M^esty,  but  to  ascertain  his  undoubted  dominion  "  (1755).  The  Baron  de 
Dieskau  (formerly  a  cavalry  officer  under  Marshal  Saxe)  then  commanded  tlie 
French  forces  on  Lake  Champlain,  and  marched  against  Johnson  with  1,600  men. 
His  approach  being  suspected,  Johnson  sent  out  a  scouting  party  of  1,200  men 
(the  3d  Mass.,  2d  Conn.,  and  200  Mohawks),  although  the  Mohawk  Chief  Hen- 
drick  protested  tliat  they  w^ere  too  few  to  succeed  and  too  many  to  be  slaughtered. 
The  object  was  to  engage  and  check  the  enemy's  vanguard  while  Johnson  com- 
pleted his  hasty  fortifications.  But  the  detachment  advanced  into  the  very 
centre  of  the  hostile  army  (which  was  marching  in  a  great  hidf-moon  curve 
through  the  forest)  and  was  speedily  enveloi)ed  and  crushed.  A  terrible  massacre 
ensued  (in  the  ravine  Avhich  is  still  known  as  the  Bloody  Defile),  and  CoL  Williams 
(of  the'  3d  Mass. ;  founder  of  Williams  College)  and  Hendrick,  the  white-haired 
Mohawk  chief,  were  killed  while  foremost  flghthig.  Dieskau  pursued  hard  after 
the  fugitive  sui'vivors,  whose  retreat  was  covered  by  the  1st  Rhode  Island.  This 
action  was  called  "the  Bloody  Morning  Scout."  The  French  now  moved  on 
Johnson's  rude  defences  of  earthworks  and  abatia,  and  the  regiments  of  La  Heine 
and  Languedoc,  halting  before  the  American  centi-e,  opened  and  continued  pla- 
toon-firing until  they  were  nearly  annihilated  by  the  artillery.  They  then  swung 
around  and  joined  the  Canadian  and  Huron  auxiliaries  in  a  sharp  attack  on  the 
American  right  (1st  2d,  and  remnant  of  8d  Mass.).  They  were  repulsed  there, 
and  the  Chevalier  de  Montreuil  led  off  the  beaten  army,  Dieskau  being  wounded 

6« 


106     M(mU  It 


LAKE  GEOROB. 


and  a  prinoner,  and  St.  Pieire  (who  had  defeated  Waahington  on  the  Ohio)  harlng 
been  killed.  Uetaohnients  fhiin  tlie  1st  N.  H.  ami  lat  N.  Y.  were  sent  ftrom  Fort 
Lyman,  and  gained  anotlier  victory  over  the  French  rear-guard.  The  attack  on 
Johnson's  position  lasted  ttom  noon  until  4  o'clock,  and  cost  the  asaailanta  400 
men.  Johnson  was  Iwdly  wounded  early  in  the  action,  and  Gen.  Lynian  succeed- 
ed to  the  coniniand  ;  but  the  funner  was  rewanled  with  a  baronetcy.  The  great- 
grandfather of  President  Grant  (an  olUoer  uf  tlie  Conn,  line)  was  killed  in  thhi 
action  (Sept  8, 1755).  A  large  fort  was  built  after  the  battle,  and  was  namcMl 
Fort  William  Henry,  in  honor  of  the  Duke  of  Cumberland  (brother  of  George  III., 
and  merciless  victor  at  CuUodenX  The  French  held  Fort  Carillon  (Tlconderogai 
at  the  foot  of  the  lake,  and  there  were  ft«quent  skirmishes  and  hdds  for  the  next 
8  years.  The  American  rangers,  Rogers  and  l*utnam,  were  foremost  in  this  parti- 
san warfare,  which  took  place  among  the  islands  and  bays.  In  March,  1767» 
Iligaud  de  Vaudreuil  menaced  Fort  William  Henry  with  1500  picked  men,  and  de- 
•troyed  300  batteaux,  4  armed  sloops,  and  all  tlie  outworks.  In  July,  the  Cheva- 
lier La  Come  led  700  men  around  the  f9rt  and  captured  a  large  supply-train,  but 
was  attacked  by  Putnam  with  gunboats,  near  Babbath  Day  Point,  and  sufl'ered 
heavy  losses.  2  days  later  a  Huron-Canadian  force  drove  the  provincials  fh>m 
the  islands,  and  killed  54  men  near  the  fort.    During  the  same  summer  the  Mar- 

?uis  de  Montcalm  (Commander  of  the  Order  of  St  Louis,  and  a  veteran  of  the 
talian  campaigns)  advanced  up  the  lake  after  the  fall  of  Oswego,  with  1,800 
warriors  from  18  Indian  tribes  (fh)m  Nova  Scotia  to  Michigan),  8,000  Canadian 
troops,  and  3,081  regulars.  The  Chevalier  de  Levi  advanced  along  the  W.  shore 
witii  4  regiments,  while  Montcalm,  with  the  main  liody,  passed  up  the  lake  in  460 
boats.  The  fort  was  garrisoned  by  2,100  men,  and  the  Frencn  troops  swimg 
around  on  the  Fort  Edward  road  to  Keep  off  reinforcements,  while  siege-batteries 
were  opened  within  700  yards  of  the  works.  Parallels  and  covered  ways  were 
made,  and  a  heavy  cannonade  was  opened  flrom  82  guns.  A  spirited  Are  was  kept 
up  flrom  the  English  batteries,  and  sitveral  sorties  were  niti.ie,  but,  after  6  days* 
bombardment,  the  cowardly  Gen.  Webb  refusing  to  send  reinforcements  flrom 
Fort  Edward,  and  the  French  parallels  being  near  the  battered  ramparts,  CoL 
Monroe  surrendered  the  fort,  having  j)ermissTon  to  march  to  Fort  Edward  with 
arms,  colors,  and  one  field-piece.  The  capitulation  took  place  at  noon,  and  the 
English  set  out  for  Fort  Edward  the  next  morning.  But  the  Indians  had  spent  the 
night  in  drinking  and  martial  rites,  and  (headed  by  a  Nova  Scotia  tribe)  fell  upon 
the  rear  of  the  retreat  with  great  fury,  inspiring  a  panic  in  the  English,  who 
threw  down  their  arms  and  scattered.  Montcalm  ordered  up  his  troops  and  en- 
deavored to  restrain  his  truculent  allies,  but  a  large  number  of  the  English  sol* 
diers  were  killed  before  the  massacre  was  stopped.  The  garrison  was  then  sent 
to  Fort  Edward  under  escort  of  the  Royal  Roussilon  regiment ;  Montcalm  removed 
the  34  captured  cannon  and  immense  supplies  ;  destroyed  th&  works,  and  retired 

to  Ticonderoga.    "  The  foit  was  entirely  demolished Dead  bodies,  mangled 

with  scalping-knives  and  tomahawks  in  all  the  wantonness  of  Indian  fierceness 
and  barbarity,  were  everywhere  to  be  seen.  More  than  ICO  women,  butchered  and 
shockingly  mangled,  lay  upon  the  ground,  still  welteriui  in  their  gore."  (Putnam.) 
Tlie  most  imposing  spectacles  which  this  or  any  other  American  lake  has  seen 
occurred  in  1758  -  59.  July  5,  1758,  Gen.  Abercrombie  advanced  down  the  lake 
with  16,000  men,  in  900  batteaux  and  135  whale-boats,  convoyed  by  gunboats  and 
grouped  around  2  huge  floating  castles,  brilliant  with  rich  uniforms  and  waving 
banners,  while  the  music  of  many  bands  echoed  among  the  hills.  (This  pageant 
is  flnely  described  by  Cooper,  in  "Satunstoe,"  Chapters  XXII. -XXV.)  A  few 
days  later  the  shattered  and  defeated  army  passed  up  the  lake  to  Fort  William 
Henry,  having  left  over  2,000  of  their  number  dead  and  dying  under  the  walls  of 
Fort  Carillon  (Ticonderoga).  In  175S  Gen.  Amherst  led  11,000  men  down  the . 
lake  in  another  grand  martial  procession  which  resulted  in  the  Conquest  of 
Canada.  In  1775  the  abandoned  Forts  George  and  Gage  (at  CaldwellVwere  occu- 
pied by  the  troops  of  N.  Y.  and  Conn. ;  and,  in  the  summer  of  1777,  rort  George 
was  chosen  for  the  army  hospital  (on  account  of  the  salubrity  of  tlie  air),  and 
8,000  sick  men  were  sent  there,  of  whom  hundreds  died  of  the  small-pox  and 
typhus-fe'^er.  In  1777,  after  the  fall  of  Ticonderoga,  Fort  George  and  the  lake 
were  aban  loned  by  the  Americans,  but  were  reoccupied  after  Burgoyne's  surrender. 
In  Oct,  1780,  the  garrison  of  Fort  George  was  defeated  and  cut  to  pieces  near 
Bloody  Pond,  and  the  fort  and  the  fleet  on  the  lake  were  taken  by  the  British. 
Sinee  that  day  unbroken  peace  has  dwelt  on  these  tranquil  waters. 


DIAMOND  ISLAND. 


Rouien.      107 


Ohio)  havtaif 
nt  ttom  Fort 
"he  attack  on 
iBsailaoti  400 
iian  iucceed< 
Thegreat- 
liUed  in  this 

was  named 
r  George  III., 
nconderogai 

for  the  nexi 
in  tills  parti* 
March,  1767, 
men,  and  de* 
y,  the  Cheva* 
)ly-train,  but 
and  suffered 
rincials  from 
ner  the  Mar- 
toran  of  the 
>.  with  1,800 

00  Canadian 
the  W.  shor« 
e  lake  in  460 
roops  swung 
ege-batteriea 

1  ways  were 
Arc  was  kept 
after  6  days' 
ements  from 
imparts,  CoL 
Sdward  with 
oon,  and  the 
ad  spent  the 
be)  fell  upon 
inglish,  who 
3ops  and  en« 
English  sol* 
18  then  sent 
ilni  removed 

and  retired 
.69,  mangled 
m  fierceness 
tchered  and 

(Putnam.) 
ke  has  seen 
wn  tlie  lake 
nhoats  and 
ind  waving 
Ills  pageant 
:V.)  A  few 
ort  William 

e  walls  of 

down  the. 
'onquest  of 

were  occu- 

'ort  George 
jie  air),  and 

11-pox  and 
the  lake 

surrender. 
|>iece8  near 

le  British. 


Lakv  OiOROi,  "  the  Como  of  Ameri  "  is  litnated  in  NoTtheastcnl 
New  York,  near  the  Adirondack  Mts.,  and  is  about  800  ft.  above  the  sea. 
It  is  86  M.  long,  and  1-4  M.  wide ;  and  its  shores  are  generally  sterile; 
and  bordered  by  the  lofty  and  abrupt  hills  of  the  Luzerne  and  Kayade- 
rosseras  Ranges.  There  are  but  3  petty  villages  on  the  lake ;  and  a  high- 
way passes  through  them  on  the  W.  shore,  connecting  Caldwell  with 
Bolton,  Hague,  and  Ticonderoga.  The  vicinity  of  frowning  nits.,  the 
great  number  of  islands,  the  transparency  of  the  waters,  and  the  bracing 
purity  of  the  air  of  the  highlands,  unite  to  establish  the  claims  of  Lake 
George  as  a  summer  resort;  while  its  scenery  has  been  likened,  not  only 
to  that  of  Coroo,  but  also  to  Lake  Windermere  and  Loch  Katrine. 

The  steamer  Minnehaha  leaves  Caldwell  every  morning  at  7.46,  reaches  the  N. 
end  of  the  lake  at  11,  and  gets  back  to  Caldwell  at  7  p.  m.  (faro,  82 ;  to  go  and 
return,  ^3).  Tourists  can  visit  Fort  Ticonderoga,  and  return  the  same  day.  The 
Ganouskie  and  Lillie  M.  Price  go  down  to  the  Narrows  and  14-Mile  Island  morning 
and  afternoon  {k  1.60  for  the  round  trip).  . 

The  steamer  leaves  the  pier  near  the  great  hotel,  and  crosses  to  Crotiby' 
side,  1  M.  distant  on  the  R  shore,  with  a  spacious  summer  hotel  and 
cottages  situated  in  pleasant  groves  by  the  shore,  and  looking  across  to 
Caldwell  (200  guests,  $  15  -  25  a  week).    The  forest-covered  French  Mt. 
is  seen  towering  on  the  E.;  and  1  M.  N.,  on  the  shore,  is  a  convent  of 
the  Paulist  Order  (on  a  domain  given'  by  Charles  O'Connor).     Tea  Island 
(so  named  from  a  tea-house,  or  arbor,  erected  in  1828)  is  next  passed ; 
and  the  summer-house  oi  Randolph,  the  publisher,  is  seen  on  the  W., 
above  which  is  Col.  Price's  stately  villa.    Diamond  Island  (3  M.  from 
Caldwell)  was  held  by  400  of  Abercrombie's  men  after  the  great.defeat ; 
and  was  fortified  by  Burgoyne  as  a  depot  of  supplies  (1777),  and  garri- 
soned by  part  of  the  47th  line  regiment,  under  Capt.  Aubrey.     It  was 
attacked  by  Col.  John  Brown,  with  the  New  England  militia  who  had 
swept  the  outworks  of  Ticonderoga ;  but  Aubrey  repulsed  the  Americans 
with  artillery,  and  then  drove  them  away  (''with  great  loss")  by  an 
attack  with  his  gunboats.    Brown  lost  all  his  vessels  and  cannon,  and 
many  men.     ^The  name  of  the  island  is  derived  from  the  f  ue  quartz 
crystals  which  are  found  there ;  and  the  place  was  inhabited  iu  tlte  early 
part  of  this  century,  the  mistress  of  the  family  being  generally  known  as 
"  the  Lady  of  the  Lake."    Near  Diamond  Point  (W.  shore)  is  Coolidge's 
Hotel  ($10-12  a  week).    Above  Montcalm's  Bay  (E.  shore)  are  the 
Trout  Pavilion  and  the  Kattskill  House,  two  sequestered  hotels  under  the 
shadow  of  the  mts.,  and  near  good  fishing-grounds  (80  guests  each,  $10- 
15  a  week).    4  M.  from  Caldwell  is  Long  Island,  with  the  Three  Sisters 
on  the  W.,  and  on  the  E.  two  promontories,  which  afford  favorite  camp- 
grounds.   The  Fort  Ann  Mts.  loom  up  darkly  on  the  E.  as  the  steamer 
crosses  the  lake,  with  the  Three  Brothers  on  the  W.,  and  Dome  and 
Recluse  Islands  on  the  N.    Buck  and  Pilot  Mts.  are  seen  on  the  N.  K, 


I 


Bl 


108     Haute  12. 


BOLTON. 


and  the  Narrows  open  away  beyond.  Thia  is  the  widest  part  of  the  L'  t*, 
and  affords  views  of  rare  beauty,  with  the  graceful  *  Dome  Island  (whUn 
resembles  Ellen's  Isle,  on  Loch  Katrine)  prominently  seen.  MeelvM 
Idand  is  a  beautiful  islet  just  W.  of  the  Dome,  with  a  picturesque  villa 
embowered  among  the  trees.  Recluse  has  the  remains  of  fortifications 
which  were  built  by  Abercrombie's  army  in  1758,  and  the  views  from  its 
8.  and  £.  shores  are  very  beautiful.  The  steamer  now  rounds  in  at 
Bolton,  a  small  village,  with  a  noble  outlook  over  the  broadest  expanse 
of  the  lake  (Mohican,  and  Bolton  Houses,  $12-18  a  week;  Wells', 
Braley's,  and  other  boarding-houses,  $8-15  a  week).  In  the  environs 
of  the  village  is  the  quaint  little  stone  Church  of  St.  Sacrament.  There 
are  several  pleasant  drives  in  this  vicinity, — to  Caldwell,  by  the  lake* 
side  (10  M.),  and  to  Hague,  over  the  hiUs.  On  the  lofty  plateau  to  the 
W.  (1,000  ft.  above  Lake  George)  are  several  crystal  lakes,  the  chief  of 
which  are  Trout  Lake  and  Edgecomb  Pond.  Prospect  Mt.  is  back  of  the 
village,  and  commands  a  broad  and  delightful  *view,  embracing  the 
widest  part  of  the  lake,  Montcalm's  and  Oanoxiskie  (Northwest)  Bays, 
Becluse,  Dome,  and  Green  Islands,  and  the  Narrows,  with  Tongue  and 
Black  Mts.,  in  the  N.  and  N.  E.  Oanouskie  Bay  extends  for  6  M.  to 
the  N.  above  Bolton,  being  separated  from  the  lake  by  the  lofty  prom- 
ontory of  Tongue  Mt.  (called  by  the  Indians  Atalapoaa,  "a,  sliding- 
place  "),  where  deer  are  found  in  the  late  fall  and  winter,  and  eagles  build 
their  lofty  eyries.  The  steamer  runs  N.  E.  froni  Bolton,  passing  Parodi 
(or  Sloop)  Island,  wliich  was  named  for  the  singer,  Signora  Parodi,  who 
erected  a  cross  here  in  1851.  Ou  the  1.  are  Green  and  Crown  Islands, 
closing  the  entrance  to  Ganouskie  Bay;  while  Tongue  Mt.  is  on  the  W., 
and  Buck  Mt.  on  the  E.,  as  the  steamer  crosses  towards  the  lofty  pal- 
isades called  Shelving  Rock,  with  the  innumerable  islands  of  the  Narrows 
on  the  1.  A  stop .  is  made  at  14-Mile  Island,  with  its  twelve  forest- 
covered  acres,  lying  at  the  entrance  of  the  Narrows,  and  near  the  fishing- 
grounds  (14-Mile  Island  House,  $10-14  a  week).  On  the  S.  are  the 
Hen  and  Chickens  islets;  and  about  1  M.  S.,  on  the  mainland,  are  the 
pretty  Shelving  Bock  Falls.  The  steamer  now  enters  *  Tlie  Harrowi, 
where  the  lake  is  compressed  between  high  mts.,  and  a  fleet  of  small 
islands  is  anchored  in  the  channel.  These  islets  were  the  scene  of  nu- 
merous partisan  combats  in  the  colonial  days,  but  are  now  deserted,  save 
for  the  visits  of  sportsmen,  who  find  large  trout  in  their  cool  shadows. 
Steaming  down  between  Tongue  Mt.  and  Black  Mt.  (2,878  ft.  high; 
sometimes  ascended  with  guides  from  Hulett's  Landing,'for  the  sake  of 
its  broad  overview),  the  Minnefuiha  passes  the  Hatchet,  Half- Way,  and 
other  groups  of  islets.  Just  N.  of  the  Floating  Battery  group  are  the 
Harbor  group  and  Vicar's  Islands,  with  the  lofty  palisades  of  Buck  Mt. 
on  the  W.,  and  the  hamlet  of  Dresden,  down  Bosom  Bay,  on  the  E.    To 


SABBATH  DAY  POINT.        JlouUJJ.      109 


the  S.  E.  are  the  upper  peaks  of  Black  Mt.,  called,  from  their  form,  the 
Elephant  Ridge,  with  Sugnr-Loaf  Mt.  beyond.  There  are  8  seqnefltejed 
farm-houses  in  Bosom  Bay,  where  boarders  are  taken  for  98  a  week. 
SoMmth  Day  Point  is  soon  approached  (on  the  W.),  a  long  low  prom- 
ontory running  out  from  the  rich  meadows  under  Bloomer  and  Deer's 
Leap  Mts.,  and  still  retaining  the  air  of  peace  and  restfulness  which  won 
it  the  name  it  bears. 

In  1757  a  sharp  skirmish  occurred  off  this  point,  and  in  July  of  that  year  the 
Ist  N.  J.  Regiment  was  sent  down  the  lalce  scouting.  While  drifting  by  tlie 
Hnrbor  Islands  (Juat  above  the  point),  in  the  gray  of  the  nioruing,  they  were 
■tiddenly  attaciced  by  800  Ottawa  Indians  and  50  Frenclimen.  Although  tlie 
Jersey  Blueii  were  superior  in  numbers,  they  were  so  daunted  by  the  fury  of  the 
enemy  and  the/earful  whooping  of  the  savages,  that  they  fled  in  panic.  But  the 
swift  Indian  canoes  quicldy  overtoolc  their  heavy  barges,  and  only  12  men  es- 
caped,—131  being  Icfllod,  and  the  rest  made  prisoners.  Some  of  them  were 
tortured  to  death,  and  tlie  Ottawas  feasted  during  the  following  night  on  human 
flesh.  On  July  5, 1758,  the  vanguard  and  centre  of  Abercromi>ie's  grand  army 
(light  infantry  and  regulars)  rested  here  fh)m  sunset  until  nearly  midnight, 
waiting  for  the  3  brigades  of  provincials  and  the  artillery.  In  1750  Amlierst's 
army  rested  on  the  point ;  and  in  1777  a  sharp  action  was  fought  here  between 
American  militia  and  Tory  refugees.  The  present  commonplace  farm-buildings 
detract  from  the  natural  beauty  of  the  place  (20  summer  boarders  are  talceu  here, 
98  a  week). 

The  vast  bulk  of  Black  Mt.  is  prominent  in  the  S.  E.,  as  the  Minne' 
haha  runs  N.  to  the  village  of  Hague,  situated  on  a  widening  of  the  lake, 
where  it  is  4  M.  across.  (The  Phcenix  Hotel  and  Trout  House  charge 
$  8-12  a  week.)  Parties  go  from  this  point  to  the  lakes  (abounding  in 
fish)  of  Phturaoh,  Brant,  and  Schroon.  As  the  steamer  regains  the  middle 
of  the  lake,  the  prospect  of  the  pass  between  Rogers'  Slide  and  Anthony's 
Nose,  and  the  retrospect  of  the  Narrows  and  its  archipelago,  afford  de- 
lightful views.  Friend's  Point  and  the  Waltonian  Isle  are  next  passed, 
and  then  Anthoni/'s  Nose  (on  the  N.  E.)  pushes  out  its  rocky  ledges  over 
the  deepest  water  in  the  lake  (400  ft. ).  Rogers'  Slide  is  a  lofty  palisade 
on  the  W.,  at  whose  foot  is  the  Rogers-Rock  House  (see  page  103  a). 

On  March  13, 1753,  while  Miyjor  Rogers  (afterwards  a  dangerous  Tory  officer) 
was  scouting  near  Ticonderojia,  with  200  Rangers,  he  was  surprised  by  the  Sieur 
de  Langy  and  200  soldiers  of  the  regiment  La  Reiiie.  144  of  the  Rangers  -were 
killed  on  the  field,  and  17  escai;)ed.  The  border  legend  states  that  Rogers  was 
pursued  by  the  Indians  to  the  verge  of  this  cliff.  Suddenly  reversing  his  snow- 
shoes  and  throwing  his  haversack  down  on  the  ice-bound  lake  beh)w,  he  retraced 
his  tracks  and  got  away  down  an  adjacent  ravine  before  his  pursuers  arrived. 
The  Indians  followed  the  tracks  to  the  precipice,  and  saw  none  leading  away, 
whence  they  concluded  that  he  had  cast  himself  over  :  aud  when,  a  few  minutes 
later,  they  saw  him  skimming  away  over  the  ice  towai-d  Fort  William  Henry  they 
attributed  his  eocape  to  tlie  protection  of  the  Great  Spirit 

Near  the  landing.  Prisoners'  Isle  is  passed  on  the  1.  The  prisoners  of 
the  Beam  raiment,  taken  in  Abercrombie's  forest-fight  near  Ticonderoga, 
were  put  upon  this  islet  and  guarded  by  Mass.  troops.  But  during  the 
hight  many  of  them  walked  to  the  shore  on  a  ledge  about  18  inches  below 
the  water>  and,  "  as  Montcalm  dryly  remarked, '  they  took  French  leave.' " 


i 


•J 


110     MouUlf^, 


LAKE  CHAMFLAIN. 


If  f'l 


('■i 


Od  the  1.  is  Lord  Howe's  Point.  From  the  landing  railroad  trains  run 
to  Ticonderoga  and  around  Mt.  Defiance,  meeting  the  Champlain  Division 
B.  R.  5  M.  distant  (see  page  103  a). 

12.  Lake  Champlain.    Whitehall  to  Hontreal 

The  Vennonl  railroad  lines  touch  the  lake  at  Burlington,  on  the  E. ;  and  the 
N.  Y.  &  Canada  i».  B.  sicirts  it  on  the  W.  The  favorite  route  of  tourist-travel 
enters  at  Ticondei-oya,  by  way  of  Lake  George.  The  most  direct  way  of  coming 
ft-om  New  York  is  by  Routes  8  and  10  (221  M.);  and  from  Philadelphia  by  the 
N.  Penu.  and  Albany  &  Susquehanna  R.  Rs.  There  are  four  large  steamboats 
plying  on  the  lake.  They  leave  Plattsburgh  at  7  a.  m.,  and  Ticonderoga  at  noon 
(reaching  Plattsburgh  at  ti.30  p.  M.).  An  excellent  dinner  is  served  on  the  boats 
A<91;;  and  staterooms  may  also  be  obtainetl.  Travellers  leaving  Caldwell  on  the 
morning  boat  meet  the  noon  boat  at  Ticonderoga.  The  steamers  formerly  ran  be- 
tween Wliitehall,  on  the  S.,  and  Rouse's  Point,  on  the  N.,  but  tlieir  voyages  are 
now  nmi;h  shorter.  The  descriptions  of  those  portions  of  the  lake  are  still  re- 
tained, for  the  use  of  boatmen. 

Lamiings  —  Fort  Ticonderoga  (24  M.  ftrom  Whitehall) ;  Larrabee's  Point,  2  M. ; 
Crown  Point,  11 :  Port  Henry,  18 :  Westport,  28 ;  Essex,  40 ;  Burlington.  61 : 
PortKent,  66;  Plattsburgh,  81.  ? 

Lake  Champlain  is  a  large  and  picturesque  sheet  of  water,  running 
nearly  N .  and  S.  ibr  126  M. ,  with  a  breadth  of  from  1  furlong  to  13  M.  Its 
waters  are  clear,  and  abound  in  bass,  pickerel,  salmon-trout,  and  other 
fish,  while  the  depth  varies  from  9  to  47  fathoms.  There  are  many  islands, 
the  largest  of  which  covers  an  area  of  18,600  acres,  and  has  a  population 
of  1,300.  Besides  numerous  pleasant  villages  and  towns,  there  is  one  city 
on  the  shores,  and  the  ileets  used  in  commerce  here  number  many  thou- 
sands of  tons.  Tliere  is  a  large  trade  between  the  rivers,  the  Hudson  being 
joined  to  the  lake  by  a  canal  64  M.  long  (to  Watervliet),  while  the  Riche- 
lieu River  affords  an  outlet  to  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  scenery  of  the  Ver- 
mont shore  is  that  of  a  quiet  pastoral  country,  with  the  Green  Mts.  rising 
in  the  distant  E.  The  New  York  shore  presents  a  continual  succession 
of  barren  and  mountainous  scenery,  with  occasional  foot-hills  of  the 
Adirondacks  pushed  out  in  promontories,  and  the  parent  peaks  looming 
blue  in  the  distance. 

liake  Champlain  was  called  by  the  Iroquois  Indians  Caniaderi  Gvnranti 
C'  The  Gate  of  the  Country  "),  and  the  Abenaquis  called  it  Petoubouque  {"  The 
Waters  that  lie  between,"  i.  e.  between  their  land  and  that  of  the  Iroquois).  The 
French  gave  the  name  La  Mkre  des  Iroquois ;  but  for  nearly  half  a  century  the 
English  and  Dut(!h  called  it  Corlear's  Lake,  in  memory  of  a  Dutch  officer  who  was 
drowned  there.  In  the  summer  of  1609  a  small  exploring  party  set  out  from  Que- 
bec under  Samuel  de  Champlain,i  the  Governor  of  Canada,  and  ascended  the  St 

1  Ctiamplain  was  bom  of  a  good  family  of  the  provinco  of  Saintonge,  In  1570.  He  bccamo 
R  navol  offlcer,  and  was  afterwards  attached  to  tho  persoa  of  King  Henri  IV.  In  1003  ho 
ascended  tho  St.  Lawrence  Riv  er  to  the  St.  Louis  Rapids,  and  thcnco  until  his  death  (in 
16S6)  he  explored  the  country  from  Nantucket  to  tho  head-waters  of  the  Ottawa.  He  was  a 
brave,  merciful,  and  zealous  chief,  and  held  that  "  the  salvation  of  one  soul  is  of  more  im- 

etrtance  than  the  founding  of  a  new  empire."    Ho  established  strong  miMlons  among  the 
urons,  fought  the  Iroquois,  and  founded  Quebec. 


FORT  TICONDEROGA.  RtmU It.      Ill 


Lawrence  and  Richelieu  Rivers  to  the  Chambly  Rapids,  where  they  met  a  war 
party  of  Hurons.  All  the  Frenchmen,  excjept  Champlain  and  two  others,  were 
sent  back  to  Quebec,  and  theHe  three  joined  the  Indian  band.  July  4,  1(509,  they 
entei-ed  the  lake,  and  on  the  following  day  tliey  defeated  200  Iroquois  at  Crown 
Point,  Champlain  liaving  sliot  tlieir  clilef  with  his  arquebus.  The  Hurons  re- 
turned In  triumph,  bearing  60  8cali»8,  and  the  valiant  Frenchmen,  having  found 
the  way  to  the  lake,  were  left  to  make  subsequent  explorations  and  campaigns 
thereon.  A  series  of  war  parties  traversed  tliis  route  for  nearly  two  centuries,  and 
the  lake  became  the  scene  of  long  campaigns  and  des^ierate  battles. 

In  Jan.,  1666,  Gov.  de  CourceUes  ascended  tlie  lake  with  600  men,  in  a  ftnitless 
raid  on  the  Moliawk  Valley ;  and  later  in  the  same  year,  De  Tracey,  witli  600 
Franco-Canadians,  took  this  route  on  his  destructive  foray  on  Central  N.  Y.  In 
1687  a  war  party  of  N.  T.  Moliawks  passed  down  and  destroyed  the  French  settle- 
ment at  Chambly  with  its  people,  and  in  1689  the  same  route  was  traversed  by 
900  Mohawks,  who  destroyed  Montreal.  In  1690,  210  French  regulars  and  a  swarm 
of  Indians  passed  up  in  canoes  and  marched  to  Schenectady,  wliich  they  reduced 
to  ruins,  killing  60  of  its  people  and  carrying  oif  a  great  amount  of  plunder.  In 
August,  1690,  Capt.  Schuyler,  with  53  Christians  and  125  savages,  went  down  in 
boats  to  Ija  Prairie,  where  they  killed  and  captured  31  persons,  and  burnt  the 
village.  In  1691  Peter  Schuyler,  with  350  men,  attacked  tlie  same  place,  but  was 
beaten  off  with  a  loss  of  46  men.  In  1695  the  chivalrous  Count  de  Frontenac  (a 
relative  of  Madame  de  Maintenon)  launched  a  fleet  of  small  craf£,  and  passed  up 
with  400  Frenchmen  and  250  Algonquins,  witli  wliom  he  laid  waste  the  Mohawk 
country.  After  a  daring  foray,  winch  reached  almost  to  the  forts  at  Albany,  he 
retired  in  safety,  and  laden  with  plunder  and  prisoners,  although  pursued  by 
Schuyler  and  the  Hudson  Valley  people.  The  lake  was  held  by  the  French,  and 
connnanded  by  their  fortifications  until  1759.  In  1745  Marin  led  300  Canadians 
in  a  fleet  of  canoes  up  the  lake,  whence  he  marched  on  Saratoga  and  destroyed  it, 
and  scores  of  marauding  parties  followed  this  route  in  tlieir  forays  on  the  Hudson 
and  Conn.  River  towns.  In  1759  Lord  Amherst  built  a  flotilla  in  South  Bay, 
with  a  flagship  mounting  18  guns,  in  which  Capt.  Loring  swept  and  won  this 
inland  sea.  Tlie  military  and  naval  operations  around  the  lake  will  be  considered 
in  connection  with  the  points  of  action. 

The  old  and  deserted  steamboat-pier  is  1  M.  from  Whitehall,  and 
near  the  submerged  hulks  of  the  British  and  American  frigates  which 
fought  at  Plattsburgh.  Near  this  point  is  Put's  Rock,  where  Israel  Put- 
nam and  his  rangers  ambushed  and  defeated  the  Franco-Indian  forces  of 
Marin.  Soon  after  leaving  the  pier.  Smith  Bay  is  seen  on  the  1.,  over- 
looked by  Saddle  Mt.  and  Diameter  Rock  (N.  shore  ;  1,300  ft.  high). 
From  Whitehall  to  Ticonderoga  (24  M. ),  and  even  to  Crown  Point,  the 
lake  is  very  narrow,  and  appears  like  a  river.  The  grades  and  deep  cut- 
tings of  the  N.  Y.  and  Canada  R.  R.  are  visible  on  the  W.  shore,  beyond 
which  are  the  bold  hills  of  Dresden,  with  Black  Mt.  as  their  chief.  The 
marshy  shores  of  Dresden  were  named  Le  Grand  Marais  by  the  French, 
and  are  now  known  as  the  Drowned  Lauds. 

Fort  Tioonderoga. 

Fort-Tfconderoga  Hotel,  83  a  day,  an  ani'ient  mansion-hnnse  near  the  landing. 
Steamboats  Irsave  for  Burlington  and  Pljittsbnrgh  about  noon,  daily,  making  the 
run  in  6-7  hra.     The  old  and  inconvenient  stajre-ronte  to  Lake  George  (4  M.  ;  see 

{•age  110)  has  lieen  replaced  by  a  railrond.  The  Chamnlain  R  R.  passes  near 
he  fort,  on  the  W.  There  is  also  a  station  ahont  1  M.  N.  of  the  f«rt,  j)er- 
taining  to  a  braneh  of  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R. ,  which  diverges  from  the  main 
line  at  Leicester  Junction. 


^1 


iffi  ' 


i 


112      Route  12.  FORT  TICONDEROGA. 

The  picturesque  ruins  of  the  fort  crown  the  high  hill  near  the  steam- 
boat pier,  and  command  extensive  lake-views.  It  is  on  a  high  and  rocky 
peninsula,  500  acres  in  extent,  surrounded  on  three  aides  by  water,  and 
bounded  on  the  W.  by  a  swamp.  The  sally-port  where  the  Green  Mt. 
Boys  entered,  the  old  well,  the  crumbling  walls  of  the  barracks  surround- 
ing the  parade,  and  the  well-defined  dry  ditches  beyond  the  ramparts, 
may  easily  be  recognized.  In  one  of  the  E.  bastions  is  a  deep  and  cavern- 
ous vault,  which  it  is  surmised  was  the  garrison  bakery.  On  the  high 
point  to  the  S.  E.  is  the  well-preserved  Grenadurs'  Battery y  erected  to 
command  the  landing-place,  and  to  defend  the  long  bridge  to  Mt.  Inde- 
pendence. There  is  another  small  battery  surrounded  by  a  wet  ditch,  on 
tlie  plain  to  the  N.;  and  the  forests  to  the  S.  and  W.  are  furrowed  with 
intrenchments  and  redoubts.  From  the  ramparts  of  the  fort  Mt  Inde- 
pendence is  seen  to  the  S.  E.  across  the  lake,  and  Mt.  Beflanoe  is  to  the 
S.  W.  across  the  widenings  of  the  outlet  of  Lake  George.  The  latter 
summit  is  800  ft.  above  the  lake,  and  is  best  ascended  by  following  the 
nearly  obliterated  military  road  of  Burgoyne  from  Ticonderoga  village  (3 
M.  from  the  fort  to  the  summit).  Others,  who  avail  themselves  of  the 
fine  rowing  which  is  obtained  here,  cross  the  bay  in  a  boat  and  scramble 
up  through  the  forest.  "  =  m  this  height  the  eye  takes  in  a  range  along 
the  lake  of  more  than  30  ^  ,  and  a  more  beautiful  rural  panorama  can- 
not often  be  found."  The  view  includes  the  rich  plains  of  Vermont,  the 
Green  and  Adirondack  Mts.,  and  the  gray  ruins  below.  Roads  run 
from  Ticonderoga  S.  E.  10  - 12  M.  to  Hague,  on  Lake  George,  and  to 
Paradox  Lake  (13  M.)  and  Schroon  Lake  (22  M.)  in  the  W. 

TicoNDEEOOA  is  a  modification  of  Cheoiiderogo,  the  old  Iroquois  name  for  this 
locality.  It  meant  "  sounding  waters,"  and  applied  especially  to  the  falls  on  the 
outlet  of  Lake  George.  The  point  was  occupied  in  1690  by  Capt.  Glen,  with  a 
picket  of  33  men,  and  defensive  works  were  built.  In  the  following  year  the 
Christian  and  Mohawk  forces  of  Maj.  Schuyler  united  here  and  advanced  to  their 
defeat  at  La  Prairie.  The  place  was  then  deserted  for  many  years,  until  Baron  de 
Dieskau  oc(!upied  it  in  1754,  and  in  1755  Montcalm  moved  up  to  it  with  a  lai-ge 
French  army,  and  built  extensive  works,  which  he  named  Fort  Carillon!  ("chime 
of  bells  "),  in  allusion  to  the  musical  cascades  in  the  vicinity.  Daring  deeds  of 
partisan  warfare  became  frequent  in  the  vicinity,  and  American  rangers  engaged 
the  Canadian  hunters  and  French  infantry  among  the  deliles  and  islands.  In 
July,  1758,  Gen.  Abercrombie  advanced  to  attack  the  fort  at  the  head  of  7,000 
regulars  and  9,000  provincial  troops.  The  English  engineers  reported  that  the 
works  were  weak,  and  could  be  carried  by  storm,  and  large  reinforcements  were 
hastening  to  join  the  garrisou,  so  Abercrombie  ordered  that  an  assault  in  column 
should  be  made  upon  the  fort.  In  advancing  through  the  forest  the  Beam  regi- 
ment boldly  engaged  and  checked  the  vanguard  (comiiosed  of  the  1st  N.  Y.  and 
1st  and  3d  Conn.).  Israel  Putnam  and  Lord  Howe  hurried  to  the  front,  and  the 
gallant  young  Howe  was  almost  instantly  killed.  "His  manners  and  his  virtues 
made  hiin  the  idol  of  the  army,"  and  "  in  Mm  the  soul  of  the  army  seemed  to  ex- 

8 ire."    (He  is  buried  at  the  8.  W.  Comer  of  St.  Peter's  Church  in  Albany,  and 
[assachusetts  erected  a  monument  to  him  in  Westminster  Abbey.)    The  French 
detachment  was  exterminated  (200  killed,  148  prisoners),  but  tlie  Anglo-American 


1  "  L«  Drapeau  de  Carillon 
Lower  St.  Lawrence. 


'  it  an  old  Canadian  song,  which  may  atill  be  heard  on  tha 


I? 


i 


idlu 


J^ 


FORT  TICONDEROGA.  JRouie  12.      113 


heard  on  th» 


troops  became  entangled  In  the  forest  and  began  to  fire  on  each  other,  until  they 
were  withdrawn.  At  1  p.  M.,  July  8,  1758,  Abercrombie  ordered  out  6,000  chosen 
troops  to  storm  the  Frencli  works,  which  consisted  of  a  line  of  breastworks  8  ft. 
hiyli,  fronted  by  a  belt  of  abatis  300  ft.  broad,  and  defended  by  batteries  at  each 
end  (near  the  water).  3,250  French  regulars  formed  the  garrison,  composed  of  the 
regiments  of  Lauj,'uedoc,  La  Sarre,  Royal  Roussillon,  Berri,  La  Reiae,  Guyenne, 
and  the  remnant  of  Beam.  The  English  combatants  were  the  27th  Enniskillen, 
42(1  Highlanders,  44th,  46th,  55th,  00th  Royal  Americans,  and  80tl»;  and  the  Pro- 
vincials had  tlie  1st  and  2d  N.  J.,  1st,  2d,  and  3d  Conn.,  and  regiments  from  N.  Y., 
Mass.,  and  R.  L  (also  500  Mohawks).  The  rangers,  light  infantry,  and  Royal 
Americans  drew  the  first  fire  of  the  enemy,  and  were  followed  by  the  55th  and 
Lord  John  Murray's  Highlanders  (the  '*  Black  Watch,"  renowned  for  its  conduct 
at  Fontenoy,  and  composed  mostly  of  Campbells  and  MacGregors).  The  High- 
land charge  was  superb,  and  crossed  the  abatis  and  ramparts  under  a  heavy  ar- 
tillery fire,  but  the  little  forlorn  hope  of  Campbells  were  bayoneted  as  soon  as 
they  entered  tlie  works,  dying  on  the  verge  of  victory.  For  4  hours  there  ensued 
a  succession  of  fearless  charges  and  bloody  reptdses,  "  and  upon  that  rude  barrier, 
which  the  simplest  manoeuvre  would  have  avoided,  or  one  hour  of  well-plied 
artillery  would  have  swept  away,  the  flower  of  British  chivalry  was  crushed  and 
broken."  At  7  in  the  evening,  after  two  final  and  disastrous  failures  in  attacks 
on  the  positions  of  the  Guyenne  and  Royal  Rousillon  regiments,  a  panic  seized 
the  army,  which  broke  up  and  fled  in  wild  confusion  (though  unpursued)  to  Lake 
George.  The  French  lost  380  men  in  the  action,  while  several  English  vessels 
were  sunk  in  the  lake  by  the  artillery  of  the  fort,  and  1,942  men  (including  647 
Highlanders  and  25  Scottish  officers)  of  the  Anglo-American  army  lay  dead  and 
wounded  on  the  plain.  The  victors  raised  over  the  battle-field  a  lofty  cross  bear- 
ing an  inscription  on  brass,  "  Pone  principes eorum slcut  Oreb  et  Zeeb  et  Zalmunna" 
(.Judges  vii.  25  and  viii.  12).  In  July,  1759,  Lord  Amherst  advanced  on  Ticon- 
deroga  with  11,000  men  and  54  cannon,  and  the  French  garrison,  weakened  by  the 
necessity  of  meeting  Wolfe  before  Quebec,  evacuated  the  place  after  burning  the 
barracks  and  exi)loding  the  magazine. 

At  dawn,  May  10,  1775,  the  fort  was  surprised  and  taken  by  85  New  England 
men,  who  had  crossed  the  lake  on  the  previous  evening.  They  were  commanded 
by  Ethan  Allen  and  Benedict  Arnold,  who  led  them  through  the  sally-port  and 
out  on  the  parade,  when  (it  is  said)  Allen  aroused  Capt.  Delaplace,  the  com- 
mandant, and  demanded  the  suiTendev  of  the  fort  "  in  the  name  of  the  Great 
Jehovah  and  the  Continental  Congress."  48  soldiers  laid  down  their  arms,  and 
174  cannon  and  vast  supplies  of  anmiunition  were  taken  by  the  bold  patriots. 
When  Burgoyne  advanced  from  Canada,  in  the  summer  of  1777,  und  Arnold's  fleet 
had  been  defeated  on  the  lake,  Ma,i.-Gen.  Arthur  St.  Clair  held  tl'  ♦"«  rt  with  2,646 
Continentals,  900  militia,  and  47  fortress  cannon.  He  dismantle  .'  ^-he  works  to- 
ward Lake  George,  and  strongly  fortified  Mt.  Independence  (remnants  of  the  star- 
fort  and  graves  of  hundreds  who  died  of  camp-distemper  arc  now  found  in  the 
forest  on  the  mt. ).  The  bridge  to  Mt.  Independence  was?  a  strong  floating  struc- 
ture, supjiorted  by  22  sunken  piers  and  many  floats.  Bui^oyue's  fleet  was  can- 
nonaded and  forced  to  keep  out  of  gunshot,  but  the  Briti-  'ucceeded  in  getting 
heavy  guns  upon  Mt.  Defiance,  from  which  a  plunging  tire  was  opened  on  tlie 
fort.  On  the  night  of  July  Cth,  St.  Clair  evacuated  the  now  untenable  position, 
and  would  have  escaped  scathless,  but  that  Gen.  de  Fermoy  set  fire  to  his  quar- 
ters on  Mt.  Independence.  The  aroused  enemy  made  rapid  pursuit,  defeated  the 
American  rear-guai-d  at  Hubbardton,  and  took  the  artillery  and  stores  at  White- 
hall, with  200  batteaux  and  the  remnant  of  Arnold's  fleet.  10  weeks  later.  Col. 
Brown,  of  Mass.,  witli  1,000  men  of  New  England,  captured  the  outworks  of 
Ticonderoga,  witli  200  batteaux,  a  war  vessel,  5  cannon,  and  293  prisoners;,  and 
delivered  100  American  prisoners  and  a  Continental  flag.  The  fort  was  dismantled 
a  few  weeks  later,  and  in  1780  was  reoccupicd  by  Gen.  HaMimand  with  trjvjps 
from  Montreal.  Since  that  time  Ticonderoga  has  been  deserted,  and  ifcs  well- 
cut  stone  and  brick  have  been  carried  away  by  vessel-loads  to  the  rising  villages 
on  the  lake.  It  is  now  sealed  against  such  invasions,  and  is  recognized  as  one  of 
the  classic  grounds  of  American  history.  July  18,  1872,  the  Vermont  Historical 
Society  had  a  field -day  here,  and  there  were  10,000  people  present.  "There  the 
first  trophy  of  our  war  for  independence  was  won,  and  there  a  soldier  of  the  Brit- 
ish realm  first  stooped  a  prisoner  to  the  aroused  colonists,  driven  to  rebeltiou  by 
uuuatural  oppression."    (LoaiiNU.) 


114     RmiielS. 


CROWN  POINT. 


I   ''«! 


After  leaving  Ticonderoga  the  steamer  passes  through  the  long  railway- 
bridge  and  runs  N.  to  Larrabee's  Landing,  in  the  Vermont  town  of  Shore 
ham.  Fine  views  of  the  mts.  on  either  side  are  now  gained.  The  next 
landing  is  at  Crovm  Point,  with  its  summer  hotel  (Gunnison's)  facing 
down  the  lake.  6  M.  N.  is  the  ancient  fortress,  and  Ticonderoga  is  9  M. 
S.  A  road  leads  S.  W.  to  Paradox  and  Schroon  Lakes;  and  the  old 
State  road  runs  W.  to  Schroon  Eiver  {Root's  Inn;  18  M.)and  the  S. 
Adirondacks  (to  Long  Lake,  60  M. ;  see  Route  17).  A  short  distance  be- 
yond this  landing  the  steamer  passes  through  the  Narrows  between  Chim- 
ney Point  (on  the  E. )  and 

Crown  Point. 

The  ruins  of  the  fortress  of  Crown  Point  occupy  the  promontory  be- 
tween Lake  Champlain  and  the  broad  Bulwagga  Bay.  They  may  be 
reached  either  by  boat  from  Port  Henry,  or  by  carriage  around  the  bot- 
tom of  the  bay.  There  is  a  ligh+,house  on  the  outer  point,  but  otherwise 
it  is  abandoned  to  its  ancient  remains  of  strength  and  pride.  Tlie  penin- 
sula is  1  M.  wide,  and. has  only  a  thin  robe  of  earth  over  limestone  ledges, 
whose  cutting  away  cost  enormously  during  the  erection  of  the  fortress. 
The  ramparts  (^  M.  around,  25  ft.  high,  and  25  ft.  thick,  faced  with 
stone)  and  ditches  of  the  fort,  its  broad  parade,  and  the  massive  walls  of 
the  ruined  barracks,  are  worthy  of  inspection  ;  while  from  the  northern 
bastions  are  gained  beautiful  *  views  of  the  Green  Mts.  in  the  E.  and  the 
rugged  foot-hills  of  the  Adirondacks  in  the  W.,  with  the  lake  stretching 
away  for  many  leagues  in  the  N.  Tlie  main  gate  was  in  the  N.  curtain, 
and  a  covered  way  led  to  the  lake  from  the  N.  E.  bastion,  in  which  was  a 
deep  well  cut  in  the  rock  (8  ft.  in  diameter  and  90  ft.  deep).  Tradition 
affirmed  that  vast  treasures  had  been  concealed  in  this  well,  and  it  was 
cleared  out  in  1824  by  a  company  of  50  men.  There  have  been  many 
other  excavations  in  this  vicinity  in  hope  of  recovering  French  treasure  ; 
but  only  iron  and  lead  have  yet  been  found.  Tlie  ramparts  are  brilliant 
with  blood-red  thorn-apples  (in  their  season)  on  dense  thickets  of  bushes. 
These  peculiar  shrubs  are  found  nowhere  else  in  the  State,  and  are  said  to 
have  been  brought  from  France.  200  yards  N.  E.  of  the  great  British 
fort,  and  on  the  steep  bank  of  the  lake,  are  the  ruins  of  the  older  French 
work.  Fort  St.  Frederic,  a  pentagonal  star-fort,  with  bastioned  angles. 

In  July,  1609,  Champlain,  2  Frenchmen,  and  60  Hurons  came  up  to  this  point 
in  24  bark  canoes,  and  here  they  landed  and  defeated  the  Iroquois,  after  passing 
the  night  in  martial  rites  and  in  singing  war-songs.  This  was  2  months  befora 
Hendrick  Hudson  discovered  tlie  noble  river  which  bears  his  name.  In  1031  the 
French  occupied  Point  a  la  Clievelure,  (opposite  this  place),  where  they  buili  a 
stone  fort  with  5  cannon  and  established  a  farming  community.  In  1666  De 
Courcelles  ascended  by  boats  (with  600  men)  to  Crown  Point,  whence  ho  marched 
into  the  Mohawk  country,  and,  on  his  subsequent  retreat,  the  force  was  halted 
here  for  several  days  to  enable  the  stragglers  to  come  up.  The  destroyers  of 
Schenectady  were  pursued  to  Crown  Point  (in  the  winter  of  1690),  but  hero  they 


" :% 


SPLIT  ROCK. 


Route  1^.      115 


put  on  skates  and  escaped.  In  1781  Louis  XV.  of  Prance  caused  Point  de  la 
Couronne  to  be  fortified,  to  close  the  route  to  Montreal  and  to  afford  a  base  of 
supplies  and  ^  menacing  fortress  on  the  Anglo- American  frontier.  The  works 
were  named  Fort  St.  Frederic,  in  honor  of  Frederic  Maurepas,  Premier  of  France, 
and  consisted  of  a  wall  of  limestone,  high  and  thick,  enclosing  stone  barracks,  a 
church,  and  a  tall  bomb-proof  tower,  —  the  armament  consisting  of  62  small  can- 
non. The  shores  were  then  much  more  thickly  settled  than  now,  a  town  of  1,500 
inhabitants  being  near  the  fort,  with  gardens  and  vineyards,  stores  futd  paved 
streets.  The  French  project  was  to  establish  a  new  Canadian  province,  extending 
from  the  Connecticut  River  to  Lake  Ontario,  with  Crown  Point  as  its  capital,  and 
the  seignorites  of  Aliana  and  Hocquart  liad  already  been  surveyed  and  settled. 
Scores  of  marauding  parties  marched  from  this  fortress  to  carry  (ire  and  sword 
upon  the  English  settlements  ;  but  in  1759,  after  the  fall  of  Ticondoroga,  the 

{)lace  was  evacuated.  Lord  Amherst  then  executed  the  orders  of  Pitt  to  erect 
lere  a  fortress  of  the  first  class,  to  "  cover  the  whole  country  and  insure  its  quiet 
and  peaceable  possession."  The  enormous  works  then  constructed  cost  the 
British  government  ^10,000,000.  In  1773  the  barracks  took  fire  and  the  powder- 
magazine  blew  up,  partially  demolishing  the  works  ;  and  in  1775  Warner's  Green 
Mt.  Boys  captured  the  fort  with  its  armament  of  114  guns,  7,000  Americans  re- 
treated here  from  Canada  in  1776,  and  hundreds  died  irom  the  small-pox.  In  1777 
Burgoyne  made  the  fort  his  main  depot  of  supplies  in  the  advance  on  Albany. 

Rounding  Crown  Point,  the  steamer  reaches  Port  Henry  (2  inns),  which 
is  picturesquely  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Bulwagga  Bay,  near  Mt.  Bul- 
wagga  (the  N.  end  of  the  Kayaderosseras  Mts.).  Tliere  are  large  iron- 
works here,  with  an  annual  exportation  of  300,000  tons  of  ore,  which  is 
mostly  manufactured  elsewhere.  There  are  inexhaustible  supplies  of  mag- 
netic ore  in  the  hills  to  the  W.,  and  several  mines  are  being  profitably 
worked  (a  R.  R.  runs  7  M.  N.  W.  to  Moriah,  at  the  mines).  After  leav- 
ing Port  Henry,  the  Adirondacks  are  seen  looming  in  the  W.,  Di.x's  Peak 
and  the  Giant  of  the  Valley  being  foremost ;  while  near  the  lake  is  Bald 
Peak.  The  steamer  next  touches  at  Westport  {Person's  Hotel),  on 
Northwest  Bay,  whence  mail-stages  run  W.  to  Elizabethtown,  Keene,  and 
the  Saranac  Lakes  (see  Route  20).  Soon  afterward  the  spires  of  the  city 
of  Vergennes  are  seen  on  the  E.  shore,  and  the  ruins  of  Fort  Cassin, 
where  Lieut.  Cassin  of  the  U.  S.  Navy  repelled  an  attack  on  Macdonough's 
fleet,  which  was  being  fitted  out  at  Vergennes.  Split  Book  is  soon 
reached  on  the  W.  shore,  and  is  a  rock  ^  acre  in  extent  and  30  ft.  high, 
which  is  separated  from  the  mt.  (the  northernmost  of  the  Schroon  range) 
by  a  deep  cleft  12  ft.  wide. 

This  remarkable  cliff  was  anciently  called  Regiochne,  or  the  Rock  Regio,  from 
an  eminent  Indian  chief  who  was  drowned  here.  It  was  the  boundary  between 
the  Mohawks  and  the  Algonquins,  whose  territories  vere  respectively  occupied 
by  the  English  and  French  ;  and  in  1710  it  wius  acknowledged  as  the  limit  of  the 
English  dominions  (Treaty  of  Utreclit).  In  1760  the  Rock  Regio  was  fixed  as  the 
boundary  between  New  York  and  Canada,  leaving  the  jjresent  sites  of  Burlington, 
St  Albans,  Plattsbnrgh,  Ogdensburgh,  etc.,  to  the  latter  province.  This  limit  was 
officially  acknowledged  as  late  as  1774  ;  but  in  the  following  years  the  Americans 
passed  it  under  arms,  and  won,  and  still  hold,  the  tenitorv  for  77  M.  to  the  N. 

Rounding  Split  Rock,  the  steamer  soon  reaches  the  landing  at  Essex  {Royce's 
Hotel),  a  pleasant  village  under  the  hills.  5-6  M.  N..  near  the  mouth  of  the 
Boquet  River,  a  colony  was  planted  by  the  pioneer,  Gilliland.  in  1765.  Tlie  set- 
tlers aide-i  Montgomery's  army  in  its  march,  and  for  this  they  were  driven  away 
by  Gen.  Burgoyne.    The  British  army  encamped  here  for  6  days,  duruig  which 


■i 


116      Route  1ft. 


BURLINGTON. 


-.     'I 
3    'tt 


! 


BuTwyne  made  that  celebrated  speech  to  the  Indian  auxiliaries  which  Edmund 
Burke  denounced  in  Parliament.  The  rear  division  of  the  retrciiting  British 
garrison  of  Crown  Point  was  captured  here  by  the  Vcrmonters. 

Near  the  middle  of  the  lake  is  the  dark  clifT  called  Rock  Dunder, 
which  was  once  cannonaded  by  a  British  war-vessel.  It  was  suspected 
of  being  a  Yankee  infernal  machine.  Shelhume  Bay  is  now  seen  opening 
on  the  Vermont  shore.  It  is  4  M.  long,  and  is  the  winter  quarters  and 
ship-yard  of  the  Champlain  steamers.  Camel's  Hump  Mt.  looms  up  due 
E. ;  and  the  islets  called  the  Four  Brothers  (and  by  the  French,  Les  Isles 
des  Quatres  Vents)  are  passed  in  the  middle  of  the  lake.  On  the  W.  are 
the  Boquet  Mts.,  terminating  in  the  lofty  cliffs  about  Perou  Bay. 
Passing  on  into  the  widest  part  of  the  lake,  a  white  city  is  seen  on  the 
N.  E.,  ar  1  t^e  steamer  soon  reaches 


square.  ,Vti. 
dauy  !  Pur 
282  ¥     i^.  t. 


Burlington. 

-American  House,  $3  a  day  ;  Van  Ness  House  ;  both  on  the  public 
'ters  twice  daily  up  or  down  Lalic  Champlain  ;  also  steam-feny  twico 
Kent  and  Plattsburgh.  Railroads  to  New  York,  310  M. ;  to  iJost(>n, 
e  White  Mts..  165  M.;  to  Sanitogu,  130  M.;  to  St.  Albans,  32  M.;  to 
M.  (see  Osgood's  New  England). 


Montu! 

BuRr  -K'N,  "the  Queen  City  of  Vermont,"  is  beautifully  situated  on 
a  long  sloping  hill  on  the  E.  shore  of  Biirlington  Bay,  It  is  the  largest 
city  in  the  State,  and  has  a  population  of  15,000,  with  15  churches  and  2 
banks.  In  1798  Burlington  had  815  iuliabitants,  and  between  1860  and 
1870  the  gain  in  population  was  105  per  cent.  It  became  a  city  in  1865, 
and  is  now  the  third  lumber-mart  in  America.  Most  of  the  lumber  is 
brought  from  the  Canadian  forests,  and  is  assorted  and  planed  hero;  after 
which  it  is  sent  by  rail  to  Boston  and  other  Eastern  cities,  immense 
quantities  are  loaded  directly  from  the  cars  to  the  vessels  (in  Boston) 
which  convey  them  to  distant  ports.  40-50,000,000  ft,  of  lumber  are 
sent  away  from  Burlington  yearly.  'Hie  wharves  and  grounds  about  the 
freight-station  are  usually  covered  with  piles  of  plank  and  boards.  Sev- 
eral of  the  churches  are  fine  buildings,  especially  the  *  Cathedral  of  St. 
Mary,  a  large  and  picturesquely  irregular  structure.  St.  Paul's  Episcopal 
Church  is  an  old  Gothic  building  of  i  lue  T  riestone,  v/ith  stained  windows. 
This  is  the  ch\irch  of  the  bishop,  whose  diocese  (the  State  of  Vt.)  has  27 
priests  and  2,655  communicants.  T^  ere  are  also  hanujome  Congregational 
and  Methodist  churches,  built  of  Builington  stone.  Near  the  square,  in  the 
centre  of  the  city,  is  a  neat  government  building  (Poat-OfFice  and  Cusloni- 
House),  and  the  elegant  Court-House  of  Chittenden  County. 

The  University  of  Vermont  occupies  an  eligible  situation  on  the  summit 
of  Burlington  Hill,  1  M.  from  the  Bay,  and  367  ft,  above  it.  This  insti- 
tution was  incorporatefl  in  1791,  and  began  operations  in  1800,  the  Pres- 
ident being  the  only  instnictor  for  the  first  6  years,  when  there  were 
about  30  students.    Its  connection  with  the  State  is  but  nominal,  and 


BURLINGTON. 


RouU12.      117 


Ich  Edmund 
Liug  British 


situated  on 
the  largest 
:hes  and  2 
II 1860  and 
;y  in  1865, 

lumber  is 
aero;  after 

immense 
ti  Boston) 
umber  are 

about  the 
rds.  Sev- 
Iral  of  St. 

Episcopal 
[  windows. 
^)has  27 
;regational 
are,  in  the 
d  Custom- 

ae  summit 
rhis  insti- 
the  Pres- 
here  were 
ninal,  and 


has  brought  it  no  emoltiment  since  its  foundation,  when  Vermont  en- 
dowed it  with  a  grant  of  29,000  acres  of  land.  In  1813  the  building  was 
taken  by  the  United  States,  and  was  used  throughout  the  war  for  an 
arsenal  and  barracks.  In  1824  the  buildings  were  burnt,  and  were  re- 
built in  1825,  the  comer-stone  bemg  laid  by  the  Marquis  de  Lafayette. 
In  1871  the  Uuiv^ity  had  16  instructors,  114  students,  and  900  alumni, 
and  the  Medical  School  hail  5  instructors  and  25  students.  In  1865  the 
State  Agricultural  College  was  united  with  the  University,  and  has  able 
instructors  and  costly  instruments,  but  wants  a  student.  There  are 
50,000  specimens  in  the  natural-history  cabinets,  and  15,000  volumes 
in  the  library.  The  3  halls  of  the  University  have  been  joined  in  one 
building,  which  is  sumioimted  by  a  bright  tin-covered  dome,  whence  is 
gained  a  superb  *  view. 

On  the  W.,  Lake  Champlain  is  seen  from  below  Crown  Point  on  the  8.  to 
Plattsburgh  on  tlie  N.,  with  numerous  islands  surrounded  by  tlie  bright  ';irater8 
which  Imve  become  ohibsic  in  American  history.  Tlie  lake  is  10  M.  wide  here, 
and  near  the  middle  are  the  Four  Brothera  islets.  Beyond  the  lake  tlie  ancient 
blue  Adirondacks  lill  the  horizon,  over  60  peaks  being  visible  on  a  clear  day, 
prominent  among  wliich  are  Mclutyre,  Whiteface,  and  Marcy,  tlie  latter  being 
the  highest  peak  between  the  White  and  tlie  Alleghany  Mts.  The  plains  of 
Chittenden  County  are  seen  in  the  N.  E.,  over  the  village  of  Winooski ;  and  in 
the  E.  are  the  stately  Green  Mts.,  tlie  Verts  Monts  for  which  the  State  was  named. 
Mt.  Mansfield,  Camel's  Hump,  and  other  well-known  peaks  are  plainly  visible, 
with  a  vast  expanse  of  farm-lands  tilling  the  foreground.  Burlington  City  is 
overlooked  on  the  VV.,  stretching  down  to  the  shores  of  its  bay.  The  *  sunset 
over  the  lake  and  the  A<lirondat;ks,  when  seen  from  this  dome,  or  ftom  the  little 
park  N.  W.  of  the  central  scpiare,  is  fuU  of  beauty.  "  Splendor  of  landscape  is 
the  peculiar  boast  of  Burlington,"  said  President  Dwight,  in  1798  ;  and  Fredrika 
Bremer  speaks  of  the  distant  "  mountain  forms,  picturesquely  combined  with  a 
certain  degree  of  grautleur  and  boldness."  The  view  looking  W.  toward  the 
Adirondacks  she  pronounced  superior  to  any  lake-view  which  she  had  ever  seen, 
excepting  only  one  on  Lake  Geneva. 

Near  the  University  is  the  Green  Mt.  Cemetery,  where  Ethan  Allen  is 
buried  under  a  Tuscan  column  42  ft.  high,  which  is  surmounted  by  a 
statue  of  the  brave  chieftain.  The  village  of  Winoosid  is  at  the  lower 
falls  on  the  Winooski  River,  near  tlie  romantic  ravine  at  the  High  Bridge, 
where  the  impetuous  stream  has  cut  a  gorge  through  the  solid  rock,  90 
ft.  deep  and  70  ft.  wide. 

Burlington  is  an  academic  city,  having,  besides  the  University,  several  fine 
schools,  among  which  is  the  Female  Seminary  (founded  in  1835),  which  has  900 
alumnsB.  The  Vermont  Episcopal  Institute  is  on  Roijk  Point,  2-3  M. 
from  the  city,  and  near  the  laiie.  It  has  a  tine  marble  building  in  collegiate 
Gothic  architecture,  with  a  small  but  elegant  chapel,  a  massive  tower,  and  a 
library  which  is  ricli  in  i)atristic  literature.  The  theological  department  has  5 
professors  and  .">G  students,  with  231  alamni,  and  is  said  to  be  the  most  expensive 
divinity-school  in  the  Union.  About  2  M.  S.  of  the  city  is  the  U.  S.  Marine 
Hospital,  fronting  on  the  lake. 

Burlington  was  settled  about  1775,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  the  Burling 
family  (of  New  York),  who  were  among  the  grantees.  It  lay  on  the  route  by  the 
Winooski  valley,  which  had  been  so  often  traversed  by  the  Northern  Indians  in 
their  forays  on  Mass.  It  was  Ibrtilied  and  garrisoned  by  4,000  troop.-!  in  the  War 
of  1812,  and  in  the  Wai*  of  1801-65  sent  many  soldiers  to  the  national  armies. 


118     Moutelt 


AUSABLE  CHASM. 


,     it: 


'  '1 


m 


Leaving  Burlington,  Juniper  Island  is  passed  on  the  1.,  and  Rock  Point 
on  the  r.,  and  the  steamer  runs  N.  W.  across  the  lake  to  Port  Kent,  an 
iron-exporting  station  under  Mt.  Trembleau.  The  old  Watson  mansion 
is  seen  on  a  hill  over  the  village.  Stages  run  from  Port  Kent  (leaving 
early)  to  the  Adirondacks  and  Sarauac  Lakes  (see  Route  19) ;  also  to 
Keeseville  {Au  Sable  House;  Adirondack),  6  M.  distant.  2-3  M.  W., 
on  the  Keeseville  road,  is  the  *  Ausable  ChAsm.  Near  Keeseville,  the 
Ausable  River  flows  between  high  banks  of  sandstone  to  a  fall  over  20  ft. 
high,  beyond  which  it  descends  a  line  of  white  rapids  to  the  *  Birming- 
ham Falls  {Chasm  House,  in  the  adjacent  hamlet).  The  river  here 
plunges  over  a  precipice  60  ft.  high,  and  enters  a  profoimd  and  narrow 
chasm  which  is  bordered  by  vertical  walls  of  Potsdam  sandstone,  70-150 
ft.  high.  The  river  is  'compressed  into  the  width  of  8-30  ft.,  and  rushes 
dawn  with  great  velocity.  Lower  down,  the  walls  are  about  60  ft.  apart 
and  100  ft.  high,  and  extend  for  ^  M.  like  great  piers  of  artificial 
masonry.  The  length  of  the  chasm  is  nearly  2  M.;  and  its  sides  and  top 
are  fringed  with  cedars,  and  are  cut  by  lateral  fissures.  Fredrika  Bremer 
said  that  "  a  visit  to  the  chasm  would  reward  a  voyage  from  Europe "  ; 
and  it  is  claimed  that  it"  successfully.rivals  the  famous  Swiss  Gorge  du 
Trient.  A  bridge  crosses  the  river  in  tlie  spray  of  the  Falls,  and  a  long 
stairway  descends  (in  212  steps)  to  the  Table  Rock  and  the  bottom  of  the 
gorge.  Railings,  walks,  and  stairways  have  lately  been  made  there,  and 
the  numerous  interesting  points  in  the  chasm  may  be  visited  with  ease. 
The  new  and  first-class  Lake  View  Hotel  is  near  the  entrance. 

6-8  M.  N.  of  Port  Kent,  the  steamer  traverses  the  narrow  channel  between 
Valcour  Island  and  the  mainland,  where  Arnold's  fleet  of  15  small  vessels  was 
attacked  by  a  powerful  British  squadron.  After  a  hot  day's  battle,  in  which  5 
vessels  were  sunk,  the  Americans  attempted  to  retreat  by  ni^ht,  but  were  elosely 
pursued.  The  flag-ship  Congress  was  surrounded  by  hostile  ships,  and  fought 
desperately  for  4  hours,  until  the  van  and  centi'e  of  the  fleet  had  escaped,  when 
Arnold  ran  her  atthore  and  blew  her  up. 

Grand  Isle,  or  South  Hero,  is  now  seen  on  the  N.  E.,  and  the  steamer 
enters  Cumberland  Bay,  passes  the  long  mole,  with  its  lighthouses,  and 
stops  at  Flattsburgh  (*  Fouquefs  Hotel,  a  summer  house,  with  spacious 
gardens  overlooking  the  lake;  Cumberland  House,  $2.50  a  day;  Witfier- 
ell's  Hotel),  P\  ttsburgh,  the  capital  of  Clinton  County,  is  a  flourishing 
town  of  about  6,000  inhabitants,  situated  at  the  mouth  of  tlie  Saranac 
River,  and  benefited  by  a  large  water-power,  on  which  are  located  lumber 
and  flour  mills.  Trinity  Church  and  the  Clinton  County  buildings  front 
on  the  Park,  near  Margaret  St.;  and  farther  S.  on  that  street  is  the  fine 
building  of  the  U.  S.  Custom-House  and  Post-Office.  On  Cornelia  St.  is 
St.  Peter's  R.  C.  Church  (Oblate  Fathers),  near  which  is  a  quaint  old 
French  nunnery.  Near  the  Post-Office  is  the  fine  stone  Presbyterian 
Church,  also  the  new  Catholic  Church  of  St.  John.    On  a  sandy  plaiu 


PLATTSBURQH. 


Haute  li.      119 


and 


1  M.  S.  of  the  village  are  the  extensive  U.  S.  Barracks^  a  frontier  military 
post  of  some  importance. 

In  Sept.,  1814,  after  Izard's  army  had  marched  to  Sackett's  Harbor,  Gen. 
Macomb  was  left  in  command  at  Plattsburgh  with  3,500  men  (Including  militia, 
broken  detachments,  ai)d  invalids).  Sir  George  Prevost,  with  14,000  veteraa 
troops,  advanced  rapidly  against  this  small  force,  designing  to  occupy  the  country 
as  far  down  as  Ticonderoga.  The  British  vanguard  was  badly  cut  up  by  several 
attaclts  of  the  militia,  on  tlie  advance  from  Cliazy,  while  Macomb  erected  3  forts 
to  cover  the  village  on  the  peninsula  between  the  Saranac  River  and  Lake  Cham- 
plain.  Over  200  British  were  killed  and  wounded  on  the  advance,  and  their  first 
slege-batterj'  was  destroyed  by  a  bold  sortie.  On  the  raomiug  of  Sept.  13,  1814, 
Prevost  opened  a  heavy  fire  from  his  artillery,  under  whose  protection  8  col- 
umns of  choice  troops  attempted  to  cross  the  Saranac  River  to  storm  the 
American  works.  Tliree  of  these  assaults  were  repulsed  by  the  riflemen  and  the 
cannonade  from  the  forts ;  but  the  third  column  crossed  at  the  upper  ford, 
driving  back  the  militia  of  Essex  County.  A  strong  force  of  Vermonters  was 
moved  up  to  the  support  of  tlie  latter  corps,  and  a  sanguinary  action  was  immi- 
nent, when  suddenly  tlie  British  force  was  recalled  across  the  Saranac.  The  de- 
feat of  the  royal  fleet  on  tlie  lake  had  caused  Prevost  to  suspend  the  attack.  The 
Americans  fought  the  battle  with  1.600  regulars,  700  N.  Y.  militia,  and  2,500  men 
of  Vermont  Tlie  N.  Y.  and  Vt.  militia  were  now  rapidly  converging  on  Platts- 
bargh,  and  a  letter  prepared  by  Rev.  Eleazer  Williams  ("  The  Lost  Bourbon 
Prince,"— then  in  the  American  sei-vice)and  sent  so  as  to  be  captured  by  Prevost, 
gave  the  false  Information  that  10,000  Vermonters  and  9,000  N.  Y.  militia  were 
advancing  on  the  British  line  of  retreat.  Dispirited  by  the  loss  of  the  fleet, 
alarmed  at  the  gathering  of  the  Siflte  troops,  and  apprehensive  of  a  second  Bur- 
goyne's  surrender,  Prevost  withdrew  his  splendid  anny  during  the  night,  leaving 
his  hospitals  and  army  stores.  The  British  lost  2,000  men  In  this  brief  campaign, 
while  the  American  loss  was  less  than  150.  The  lucomi)etency  of  Sir  George 
Prevost  was  bitterly  censured  in  Caiiada.  and  procured  his  disgrace  by  the  home 
government ;  while  Gen.  Macomb  received  the  proudest  hitnors  of  the  Republic, 
and  was  general-in-chief  of  its  armies  from  1836  until  his  death  in  1841. 

At  8  o'clock  In  the  morning  of  Sept.  8,  when  the  royal  troops  were  advancing 
on  the  Saranac  fords,  the  British  fleet  rounded  Cumberland  Head.  It  was  led  by 
Coimnodore  Downie,  and  consisted  of  the  Confiance,  38,  the  Linnet,  16,  the  Chub 
and  the  Finch,  11  guns  each,  and  12  gunboats.  The  American  fleet,  anchored  in  a 
double  line  between  Crab  Island  and  Cumberland  Head,  was  commanded  by  Com- 
modore Macdonough,  and  consisted  of  the  Saratoga,  26,  Eagle,  20,  Ticonderoga, 
17,  Preble,  7,  and  ten  gunboats.  The  British  had  95  guns  and  1,095  men,  and  the 
Americans  had  86  guns  and  852  men  :  the  ordnance,  on  both  sides,  being  unusually 
heavy.  Macdonough,  with  his  ships  cleared  for  action,  knelt  on  the  deck  of 
the  Saratoga,  surrounded  by  his  officei's  and  men,  and  Invoked  the  Divine  blessing 
on  tlie  issue  of  the  fight.  The  Eagle  and  Saratoga  commenced  the  action,  and 
Downie's  flag-ship,  the  Confiance,  moved  up  close  to  the  Saratoga,  and,  with  one 
tremendous  point-blank  broadside  from  her  16  double-shotted  24-pounder8,  dls- 
■  abled  40  of  the  Saratoga's  men,  and  covered  her  trembling  decks  with  ruin.  The 
Llnne',  raked  her  ft-om  bow  to  stern,  but  still  her  fire  was  kept  up,  until  the  whole 
starboard  battery  was  useless.  By  a  skilful  manoeuvre  she  was  quickly  wound 
around  so  that  her  uninjured  larboard  broadside  bore  on  the  Confiance,  which 
was  soon  compelled  to  surrender  under  its  teirible  fire.  Then,  after  a  pounding 
of  15  minutes,  tlie  Linnet  also  struck  her  colors  ;  while  the  Chub  had  yielded  to 
the  Eagle,  and  the  Finch  had  been  disabled  by  the  Ticonderoga,  and  had  surren- 
dered to  the  battery  on  Crab  Island  (manned  by  in>-alids  from  the  hospital). 
Meantime  the  British  gunboats  had  driven  the  Preble  in  sh(ire,  and  assailed  the 
Ticonderoga  on  all  sides.  The  galleys  came  up  valiantly,  but  were  swept  by  her 
cannon  until  they  were  forced  to  flee  to  Cumberland  Head.  After  2^  hours  of 
incessant  cannonading,  the  whole  British  fleet  surrendered,  although  the  royal 
gunboats  afterwards  escaped,  the  vitttorious  vessels  being  too  much  crippled  to 
follow  them.  The  American  loss  was  104  (49  killed),  and  the  British  loss  was 
about  166.  Com.  Downie  was  killed  early  in  the  action  by  being  struck  in  the 
gi'oin  by  a  24-pounder  cannon  which  had  been  dismounted  by  a  ball  and. 
hurled  in-board.    Macdonough  was  crushed  to  the  deck  by  the  fall  of  a  beavy 


120     JtauUlt, 


ROUSE'S  POINT. 


D  I  'I 


I   i< 


boom,  which  had  been  cut  off  by  a  cannon-ball,  and  goon  afterward  he  was 
■tunned  by  being  lilt  by  the  flying  head  of  one  of  his  sub-offlcora.  Medals,  nonors. 
and  estates  were  showered  upon  him  after  the  victuiy;  insomuch  thut  heBaid, 
"  la  one  month,  from  a  poor  lieutenant  I  became  a  rich  man."  Downie  and  lo 
other  offlceni  of  the  contending  l(  rcrs  rest  in  the  Plattsburgh  Cemetery;  and  the 
men  of  the  fleets  who  fell  in  the  batti<^  were  buried  on  Crab  Iilpnd. 

Daily  stages  run  N.  W.  16  M.  from  Plattsburgh  over  a  plank  road  'o 
Dannemora  (Clinton  House),  a  small  and  straggling  hamlet  which  has 
grown  up  around  the  Clinton  State  Prison.  A  long  and  gradual  ascent 
leads  to  this  place,  which  is  1,700  ft.  above  the  sea  and  commands  a  pleas- 
ing view  of  the  Green  and  Adirondack  Mts.  The  prison  contains  about 
500  convicts,  who  are  employed  in  making  iron  and  nails  on  State  account ; 
and  the  stone  buildings  and  forges  are  surrounded  by  a  high  stockade. 
5  M.  from  Dannemora  is  Chaiy  Lake  {Meader  House),  a  trout-abounding 
sheet,  4  by  1 J  M.,  under  the  shadow  of  Mt.  Lion.  The  usual  way  of  en- 
trance to  the  Adirondack  Mts,  and  the  Saranac  Lakes  is  by  Plattsburgh 
(see  Route  18). 

The  Montreal  and  Plattsburgh  A  R.  rtms  N.  to  Montreal  in  63  M.  (connections 
unfavorable  for  rapid  transit).  Passing  the  unimportant  stations,  Beel<mantown, 
Chazy,  and  Sciota,  it  crosses  the  Ogdensburgh  R.  R.  at  Mooc  i  .i  Junction,  and  (!on- 
nects  with  a  branch  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  at  Province  Line.  The  train 
now  passes  the  Canadian  stations  of  Henmiingford,  La  Plgeoniere,  8t.  Remi,  and 
Bt.  Isidore,  and  reaches  the  St.  Lawrence  at  the  ancient  Indian  village  of  Caugh- 
nawaga.  Crossing  by  ferry,  the  cars  are  taken  at  Lachine,  whence  Montreal  is 
reached  in  8  M. 

Beyond  Pl&ttsburgh,  Cumberland  Head  is  rounded  on  the  1.,  and  a  N. 
course  is  taken  between  GrniiJ  Isle  and  the  shores  of  Clinton  Co.,  N.  Y. 
Beyond  Point  au  Roche  hUe  La  Mottc  is  approached  on  the  r.  The  shores 
new  become  more  i  v/el,  aud  the  mts.  are  only  seen  in  retrospective  views. 
Point  au  Fer  is  passed  on  the  1.,  and  the  peninsula  of  Alburgh  (which 
shelters  the  beautifiU  Missisquoi  Bay)  is  on  the  r.  25  M.  N.  of  Platts- 
burgh the  lake  is  ended  at  Rouse's  Point  {Massachusetts  House),  a 
dingy  village  with  about  1,200  inhabitants.  Fort  Montgomery  is  1  M.  N 
of  the  place,  and  commands  the  Richelieu  River,  with  164  guns.  After 
the  works  on  this  fort  had  gone  on  for  some  time,  it  was  found  to 
be  in  British  territory,  and  was  abandoned  and  named  "  Fort  Blunder." 
A.  generous  change  of  boundary  gave  the  land  to  the  U.  S.,  and  the  fort 
was  completed  at  a  cost  of  $600,000.  The  Ogdensburgh  R.  R.  (Route  14) 
crosses  the  efflux  of  the  Richelieu  River  on  a  bridge  1 M.  long,  with  a  float- 
ing draw  300  ft.  long. 

Alburgh  SVlVin^%{*AlhM,rgh  Springs  House)  are  a  few  miles  E.  of  Rouse's 
Point,  and  near  Missisquoi  Bay.  The  waters  are  impregnated  with  sulphur  and 
lithia,  and  are  much  used  for  cutaneous  complaints.  The  King  of  Prance  granted 
the  peninsula  of  Alburgh  as  a  feudal  seigniory  to  Councillor  Foucault,  under  wliose 
onlers  it  was  settled  in  1731.  It  was  colonized  by  loyalist  refugees  late  in  the 
Revolutionary  era  ;  and  in  1837  it  was  one  of  the  frontier  towTis  from  which  the 
insurgents  in  the  "  Patriot  War"  made  their  raids  into  Canada.  A  few  miles  E. 
of  Alburgh  are  the  popular  Highgate,  Sheldon,  and  Missisquoi  Springs  (see  Os- 
good's New  England), 


rrl  he  was 
Is.nonors, 
it  ht)  Bai<f 
nle  and  1  j 
If ;  and  the 

ik  roftii  to 
vhich  has 
aal  AScent 
Is  a  pleas- 
ains  about 
e  account ; 
stockade, 
abounding 
way  of  en- 
lattsburgh 


connections 
skmantown, 
on,  and  cou- 
.  The  train 
;.  Remi,  and 
je  of  Caugh- 
Montreal  is 


•> 


and  a  N. 

Co.,  N.  Y. 

The  shores 

itive  views. 

[rgh  (which 
of  Platts- 
Hoiise),  a 
is  1  M.  N 

ins.  After 
found  to 
Blunder." 
id  the  fort 
(Route  14) 
ith  a  float- 


of  Rouse's 

julphur  and 

liice  granted 

Tinder  whose 

[late  in  the 

wliich  tlie 

pw  miles  E. 

(see  Os- 


"1 ; 

MONTREAL. 


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WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)872-4503 


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ST.  JOHNS. 


Route  IS,      121 


The  Orand  Trunk  Railway  (branch  line)  rons  from  Rouse's  Point  to 
Molltreal  in  50  M.,  passing  near  Fort  Montgomery,  and  following  the 
level  1.  bank  of  the  Richelieu  River  to  St.  Jolma,  a  quaint  and  antiquated 
village  near  the  head  of  the  Chambly  Rapids.  It  is  situated  on  a  level 
plain,  and  is  connected  with  the  suburb  of  St,  Athanase  by  a  fine  bridge 
over  the  Richelieu.  Near  the  military  barracks  is  a  large  trophy-cannon 
from  Sebastopol.  Visitors  at  this  quiet  old  town  usually  ride  down  the 
river-road  to  Charnblj/,  a  pleasant  village  12  M.  N.  K,  on  a  lake-like  ex- 
pansion of  the  Richelieu,  called  Chambly  Basin.  The  Richelieu  flows 
toward  the  N.  E.  almost  parallel  with  the  St.  Lawi'ence,  which  it  joins  at 
Lake  St.  Peter,  70  M.  distant. 

The  Marquis  de  Moutcalm  built  a  fort  at  St  Johns,  which  was  strengthened  by 
Gov.  Oarleton,  Benedict  Arnold's  American  fleet  was  repulsed  in  an  attack  in 
1775,  but  the  fort  was  afterwards  besieged  by  Gen.  Montgomery,  and  after  six 
weeks  of  blockade  and  cannonade  it  surrendei«d,  with  600  British  regulars  and  48 
heavy  cannon.  It  was  stripped  and  abandoned  on  the  advance  of  Burgoyne. 
Chambly  was  fortified  by  tlie  French  hi  1711,  and  in  1775  it  hod  a  strong  stone 
fort  built  by  the  British,  with  massive  towers  at  its  angles.  Large  supplies  were 
stored  here,  but  the  commander  was  inefQcient,  and  the  works  were  captured  by 
the  Americans  in  October,  1775.  It  was  retaken  by  Burgoyne,  and  served  as  an 
exercising  ground  for  the  Montreal  garrison  until  the  English  military  evacuation 
of  Canada.  In  the  crypt  uf  the  Cauiolic  Church  is  buried  De  Halabeny,  Seigneur 
de  Chambly,  who  resisted  the  Americans  with  such  valor  and  success  at  the  battle 
of  Chateaugay,  that  he  ever  after  bore  the  title  of  "  the  Canadian  Leonidas."  12 
H.  fh)m  Chambly  is  Belceil  Mt.  Other  excursions  from  St.  Johns  are  to  Scotch 
Mt.  (6  M.  over  a  good  road),  which  commands  a  view  of  the  Green  Mtfl.  and  the 
border  counties,  and  to  the  Chambly  Rapids  on  the  Richelieu.  St.  Johns  is  the 
N.  terminus  of  the  Central  Vermont  R.  B.  to  St.  Albans,  Lowell,  and  Boston  (see 
Osgood's  New  England ;  Route  29). 

From  St.  Johns  the  line  runs  N.  W.  across  the  fair  and  fertile  plains  of 
the  parish  of  La  Prairie  to  St.  Lambert,  crossing  the  Montreal  River  at 
Lacadie.  At  St  Lambert  the  train  crosses  the  St.  Lawrence  River  on  the 
wonderful  *  Victoria  Bridge,  and  then  stops  at  Montreal. 

"  The  sun  suddenly  shone  out,  gilding  the  lofty  towers  of  the  cathedral, 
the  tall  spires  of  the  churches,  the  domes  and  tinned  roofs  that  stretched 
along  the  river  for  more  than  1^  M.,  to  which  the  bold  wooded  mt  on  the 
rear  formed  a  majestic  background.  I  was  at  once  reminded  of  Auxerre, 
Montreuil,  and  other  old  provincial  cities  of  France."  (Batard  Tatlob.) 


13.  HontreaL 

Hotels* — St.  Lawrence  Hall,  on  Great  St  James  St ,  9  4. 50  (Canadian )  a  day  j 
Ottawa  House ;  St  James ;  Montreal  House  :  Donnegana  Hotel,  Notre  Dame  St : 
Albion.    The  new  •  Windsor  is  the  best  hotel  in  Canada. 

Sliops.— The  most  attractive  are  on  Great  St.  James  and  Notre  Dame  St& 
American  money  is  usually  received  at  the  reigning  rates  of  exchange,  but  it  hi 
advisable  to  purchase  sumcieut  Canadian  money  for  the  tour  at  one  of  the  banks 
on  the  Place  d'Armes  or  St.  James  St. 

CarrlaKes.— One-horse  carriages,  for  1-2  persons,  25c.  a  course  (within  the 
city),  50c.  an  hour;  for  3-4  persons,  40c.  a  course,  70c.  an  hour.  Two-horse 
carriages,  lor  1  - 2 persons,  40c.  a  course,  75c.  an  hour;  for  3-4  persons,  60c. a 
course,  #1.00  an  hour.    HorK-cars  traverse  the  city  on  Craig,  Bleury,  and  St 


122     Jt&uU  IS, 


MONTREAL. 


if' 


CathMrine  Bta. ;  also  on  St.  Mary,  Notre  Dame,  and  St.  Joeeph  Sts. ;  and  out  St 
Lawrence  Main  St.  8tage$  run  to  all  the  adjacent  viUages,  and  to  Chambly,  St. 
Sauveur,  and  8t.  Canut. 

Hallways.— To  New  York,  by  Rutland  and  Albany,  420  M.  (by  Lake  Cham- 
plain,  390  M.) ;  to  Rouse's  Point,  50  M. ;  to  Toronto,  883  M.  (14-15  hrs.) ;  to  De> 
troit,  564  M.  ;  to  Chicago.  848  M. ;  to  Ottawa,  166  M. ;  to  Quebec,  178  M;  (in  7  -9 
hrs.) :  to  Boston,  884  M.  (by  Lowell),  or  844  M.  by  Fitchburg.  Also  to  Newport. 
Yt.,  by  the  S.  E.  RaUway,  79  M. ;  to  Waterloo,  70  M. ;  to  Chambly  and  W.  F^' 
ham  (35  M.). 

Stoamers.  —  The  Dominion  Line  steamships  leave  weekly  (in,  summer)  for 
Liverpuoi ;  vessels  of  the  Oulf  ii'orts  S.  B.  Lhie  to  Quebec,  FaUier  Point, Charlotte- 
town,  Bhediac,  and  Pictou,  weekly ;  Canad.  Navig.  Co.  boats  daily  to  the  river-ports 
to  the  W.,  Kbigston,  Toronto,  and  Hamilton  (see  Route  28) ;  daily  from  Lachine  to 
the  Ottawa  river-ports  and  Ottawa  city  ;  local  lines  to  the  smaller  river-vilUurea 
as  far  as  Cornwall,  and  also  to  the  Bay  of  Quints.  Steamers  of  the  RichelieuCo. 
run  E.  daily  to  Sorel,  Three  Rivers,  Batisi^an,  and  Quebec ;  also  to  Boucherville, 
Vareuues,  Bout  de  I'lsle,  Lachenaie,  L'Assomption,  and  Tenvbuime.  Semi-weekly 
•teamers  ascend  the  Richelieu  River  by  Beloeil  to  Chambly. 

In  the  year  1535  Jaques  Cartier  visited  the  triple-walled  Indian  village  of  Hoch- 
elaga,  and  ascended  the  lofty  hill  behind  it,  which,  ftrom  the  beauty  of  its  view, 
he  named  Mount  Royal.  The  place  was  visited  by  Champlain  in  1608,  and  was 
settled  by  a  small  French  colony.  A  tax-gatherer  of  AnJou  and  a  priest  of  Paris 
heard  (j^lestial  voices,  bidding  them  to  found  a  hospital  (H6tel  Dieu)  and  a  college 
of  priests  at  Mount  Royal,  and  the  voices  were  followed  by  apparitions  of  the 
Vii^iu  and  the  Saviour.  Filisd  with  sacred  zeal,  and  brought  together  by  a  singu- 
lar accident,  these  men  won  several  nobles  of  France  to  aid  tiieir  cause,  then 
bought  the  Isle  of  Mount  Royal  and  formed  the  Society  of  Notre  Dame  de  Mon- 
treal. With  the  Lord  of  Maissonneuve  and  45  associates,  in  a  solemn  service  held 
in  the  Cathedral  of  Notnn  Dame  de  Paris,  they  consecrated  the  island  to  the  Holy 
Family  under  the  name  of  ViUe  Marie  de  Montreal  (Feb.,  1641).  May  18, 1642, 
Maissonneuve  and  his  people  landed  at  Montreal  and  raised  an  altar,  before  which, 
when  high  mass  was  concluded,  the  priest  said,  "  You  are  a  grain  of  mustard-seed 
that  ahsSl  arise  and  grow  until  its  branches  overshadow  the  land.  You  are  few, 
but  your  work  is  the  work  of  God.  His  smile  is  on  you,  and  your  children  shall 
fill  the  land."  The  Hdtel  Dieu  was  founded  in  1647,  and  in  1657  the  Sulpicians  of 
Paris  established  a  seminary  here.  In  1689,  1,400  Iroquois  Indians  (Mohawks) 
stormed  the  W.  suburb,  and  killed  200  citizens ;  and  soon  afterward  Col.  Schuyler 
destroyed  Montreal  with  troops  firom  New  York,  leaving  only  the  citadel,  which 
his  utmost  efforts  failed  to  reduce.  In  1760  Lord  Amherst  and  17,000  men  cap- 
tured the  city,  which  then  had  4,000  inhabitants,  and  was  surrounded  by  a  wall 
with  11  redoubts  and  a  citadel.  In  1775  Ethan  Allan  attacked  Montreal  with  a 
handful  of  Vermonters,  and  was  defeated  land  captured  with  100  of  his  men.  Gen. 
Ftescott  sent  them  to  England  as  "  banditti,"  and  Allen  was  imprisoned  in  Pen- 
dennis  Castle.  In  the  fall  of  1775  the  city  was  taken  by  the  American  ai-my  under 
Gen.  Montgomery.  With  the  close  of  the  War  of  1812,  a  brisk  commerce  set  in, 
and  the  city  grew  rapidly,  having,  in  1821, 18,767  inhabitants.  The  completion 
of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  greatly  benefited  the  place,  and  its  increase  has  for 
many  years  been  steady,  substantial,  and  rapid. 

Montreal,  the  metropolia  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  and  "  the  (^ueen 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,"  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  cities  on  the  continent. 
It  is  sitacted  on  an  island  (at  the  confluence  of  the  Ottawa  and  St.  Law- 
rence Rivers)  containing  197  squftre  M.,  which,  from  its  fertility,  has  been 
called  the  garden  of  Canada.  The  city  has  107,225  inhabitants  (censns  of 
1871),  with  60  churches,  20  banks,  7  daily  and  86  other  papers,  ^d  re- 
turns 3  members  to  the  House  of  Commons.  In  1872  there  airived  here 
872  vessels  from  the  ocean,  aggr^ating  696,795  tons,  bringing  $  40,088,665 
of  imports,  and  carrying  away  $  18,171,38i  of  exports.    The  St  Law- 


MONTREAL. 


BmtUlS,      123 


tence  is  1)  M.  wide  at  thia  point,  and  the  entire  river-fipont  is  lined  with 
lofty  and  massive  walls,  quays,  and  terraces  of  gray  limestone,  nueqoalled 
elsewhere  in  the  world,  eccept  at  Liverpool,  Paris,  and  St.  Petershurg. 
The  commercial  buildings  are  generally  of  stone  and  in  plain  and  9}ibstan> 
tial  architecture,  while  the  number  of  fine  public  buildings  is  very  large. 
2  of  the  population  are  Catholics,  many  of  whom  are  French,  while  the 
bright  suburban  villages  are  almost  entirely  inhabited  by  the  French 
Canadians.  Although  Montreal  is  800  M.  from  the  sea,  it  is  the  port 
which  receives  the  larger  part  of  the  importations  to  Canada,  and  its 
manufacturing  interests  are  of  great  extent  and  importance. 

Tlie  Yiotoria  S<\iiare  is  a  public  ground  at  the  intersection  of  McGili 
and  St.  James  Sts.;  in  which  a  statue  of  the  Queen  has  bee^  placed.  The 
Catliedral  Buildings,  St.  James  Hotel,  Y.  M.  C.  A.  Building,  and  St 
Patrick's  Hall  front  on  this  square.  Going  E.  on  Great  St.  James  St., 
some  fine  bi^ks,  insurance  and  commercial  buildings  are  passed,  and  op- 
posite the  Corinthian  colonnade  of  the  Bank  of  Montreal  (beyond  St. 
Francis  Xavier  St.,  the  Canadian  Wall  St.)  the  Place  d'Armes  is  seen. 
Here  is  the  lofty  fa9ade  of  the  *  Church  of  Notre  Dame  (the  largest 
church  on  the  continent),  which  has  seats  for  10,000  persons.  It  is  255^ 
ft.  long  and  144^  ft.  wide,  and  has  a  chancel-window  64  X  32  ft.  in  area. 
The  interior  is  not  interesting,  and  the  pictures  are  poor.  One  tower  has 
a  chime  of  bells,  and  in  the  other  hangs  "  Oros  Bourdon"  the  largest  bell 
in  America,  weighing  15  ions.  The  towers  are  220  ft.  high,  and  are  gen- 
erally open  to  visitors  (small  fee  to  the  door-keeper).  From  their  top  is 
gained  a  panoramic  view  of  the  city  and  river,  the  Victoria  Bridge  and 
the  islands.  Alongside  of  the  church  is  the  ancient  Seminary  of  St. 
Sulpice,  on  the  site  of  the  Seminary  of  1657,  as  the  church  is  near  the 
site  of  the  Notre  Dame  of  1671.  The  present  Notre  Dame  was  built  in 
1824  -  29,  and  was  consecrated  by  the  Bishop  of  Telmease  in  partibus. 
Fronting  on  the  Place  d'Armes  is  the  elegant  Ontario  Bank  and  the  hall 
of  the  Canadian  Grand  Lodge  of  Masons.  A  short  distance  to  the  E.  (on 
Notre  Dame  St.),  an  archway  on  the  r.  conducts  to  the  extensive  and 
secluded  Convent  of  the  Black  Nuns.  Farther  on,  the  *  Court  Houie  is 
seen  on  the  1.,  — a  stately  stone  building  (300  X  125  ft.)  in  Ionic  archi- 
tecture, back  of  which  is  the  Champ  de  Alars,  or  Parade  Gromid,  an  open 
space  covering  50,000  square  yards,  and  fronted  by  the  Dominion  Military 
School.  Just  beyond  the  Court  House,  the  Jaques  Cartier  Square  opens 
off  Notre  Dame  St.,  and  is  encumbered  by  a  dilapidated  monument  to 
Admiral  Nelson.  The  Jaques  Cartier  Normal  School  (in  the  ancient 
French  Government  building)  and  the  Institut  Canadien  (with  a  fine 
library)  front  en  the  Government  Garden,  at  the  head  of  this  square.  By 
the  next  side-street  (St.  Claude)  to  the  r.,  the  Bonieoours  Karket  may 
be  visited.    This  market  is  unrivalled  in  America,  and  is  built  of  stone. 


124     JtmOe  1$. 


MONTREAL. 


at  a  cost  of  $  S00,000.  It  is  3  stories  higb,  is  snnnotmted  by  a  dome,  and 
presents  an  imposing  fh>nt  to  the  river.  The  curious  French  costumes 
and  langn^age  of  the  country-people  who  congregate  here  on  market-dnys, 
as  well  as  some  peculiuribl<!S  of  the  wares  offered  for  sale,  render  a  visit 
very  interesting.  Alongside  the  market' is  the  Bonsecours  Church  (accom- 
modating 2,000)  which  was  built  in  1658.  A  short  distance  beyond  is  the 
Quebec  Gate  Barrack,  on  Dalhousie  Square;  and  the  VictAria  Pier  makes 
out  into  the  stream  toward  ^.  Helen's  Isle  (a  fortified  depot  of  ammuni- 
tion and  war  materiel).  To  the  N.,  on  Craig  St.,  is  the  attractive  Viger 
Garden,  with  fountains  and  a  conservatory,  near  which  is  Trinity  Church 
(Episcopal),  built  of  Montreal  stone  in  the  early  English  Gk>thic  style  and 
accommodating  4,000  persons.  N.  of  Trinity  and  also  on  St.  Denis  St. 
is  St.  James  Church  (Catholic),  in  the  pointed  Gothic  style,  with  rich 
stained  glass.  Some  distance  E.  of  Dalhousie  Square,  on  St.  Mary  St, 
is  Molson's  College  (abandoned)  and  St.  Thomas  Church  (Episcopal), 
with  the  Papineau  Market  and  Square  and  the  great  buildings  of  Molson^s 
brewery.  I 

XoOill  St.  is  an  important  thoroughfare  leading  S.  from  Victoriit 
Square  to  the  river.  Considerable  wholesale  trade  is  done  here  and  in  the 
intersecting  St.  Paul  St.  The  Dominion  and  Albert  Buildings  are^  rich 
and  massive,  while  just  beyond  is  St.  Ann's  Market,  on  the  site  of  the  old 
Parliament  House.  In  1849  the  Earl  of  Elgin  signed  the  obnoxious  Re- 
bellion Bill,  upon  which  he  was  attacked  and  insulted  by  a  mob,  who 
also  drove  the  Assembly  from  the  Parliament  House,  and  burnt  the  build- 
ing. On  account  of  these  riots,  Montreal  was  decapitalized  the  same 
year.  Commissioners'  St.  leads  E.  by  St.  Ann's  Market  and  the  elegant 
Custom  House  to  the  broad  promenades  on  the  river-walls.  Ottawa  St. 
leads  W.  to  the  heavy  masonry  of  the  Lachine  Canal  Basins  and  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  Victoria  Bridge. 

Radegonde  St.  and  Beaver  Hall  Hill  run  N.  from  Victoria  Square, 
passing  Zion  Church,  where  the  Gavazzi  riots  took  place  in  1853.  The 
armed  congregation  repulsed  the  Catholic  assailants  twice,  and  then  the 
troops  restored  order,  40  men  having  been  killed  or  badly  wounded.  Just 
above  is  the  Baptist  (Thurch,  overlooked  by  the  tall  C!hurch  of  the  Messiah 
(Unitarian),  with  St  Andrew's  Presbyterian  CJlmrch  on  the  r.  A  few 
steps  to  the  r.,  Lagaucheti^re  St  leads  to  St.  Patrick's  Church,  a  stately 
Gothic  building,  240  x  90  ft.,  accommodating  5,000  persons,  and  adorned 
with  a  spire  225  ft.  high.  The  nave  is  very  lofty,  and  the  narrow  lancet- 
windows  are  filled  with  stained  glass.  Near  by,  on  Bleury  St,  are  the 
massive  stone  buildings  of  St.  Mary's  College  (Jesuit)  and  the  *  CJIiiiroh  of 
the  Oestl.  The  nave  of  the  church  (76  ft  high)  is  bounded  by  rich  com- 
posite columns ;  and  the  transepts  are  144  ft.  long,  and  adorned  with  fine 
frescos  in  chiaroscuro. 


MONTREAL. 


MmiU  IS,      125 


Over  the  high  altar  is  the  Crociflxion  and  the  Adoration  of  the  Spotlaas  Lamb, 
above  which  Is  the  Nativity.  Bv  the  columns  at  the  intersection  of  the  nave 
and  transepts  are  statues  of  St.  Mark  with  a  lion,  St.  Matthew  with  ai^  ox,  St. 
Luke  with  a  child,  and  St.  John  with  an  eagle.  On  the  ceiling  of  the  nave  are 
firescos  of  St  Thonias  Repentant,  the  Bleeding  Lamb,  and  the  Virgin  and  Cliild 
amid  angelic  chotars.  8  medallions  along  the  nave  contain  portraits  of  saints  of 
th;  Order  of  Jesus.  Over  the  Altar  of  the  Virgin,  in  the  L  transept,  is  a  firesco 
of  the  Trinity ;  near  which  is  a  painting  of  St.  Aloysius  Ooniaga  receiving  his 
first  communion  from  St.  Charles  Borromeo,  Cardinal  Archbishop  of  Milan.  To 
the  r.  is  a  firesco  of  St.  Ignatius  Loyola  in  the  grotto  of  Manresa ;  and  on  the  L 
is  Christ's  appearance  to  him  near  Rome,  while  above  is  Christ  blessing  little 
children.  Over  St.  Joseph's  Altar  (r.  transept)  is  a  painting  of  the  Eternal 
Father,  on  whose  r.  is  St.  Stanislaus  Kostka,  receiving  the  communion  firom 
angels.  On  the  1.  is  the  Martyrdom  of  the  Jesuits  at  JSTasasaki.  on  the  r.  is  the 
Martyrdom  of  St.  Andrew  Bobola,  in  Poland,  and  above  is  the  Raising  of  Lazarus. 
On  ihe  ceiling  is  a  large  Aresoo  of  the  Holy  Family  at  Work. 

St.  Catharine  St.  leads  W.  to  ^Chriit  Chnroh  Catbednl,  the  best 
specimen  of  English  Gothic  architecture  in  America.  It  is  built  of  Caen 
and  Montreal  stone/ is  cruciform,  and  a  stone  spire  224  ft.  high  springs 
from  the  centre  of  the  cross.  The  chancel  has  a  fine  window  and  carved 
choir-stalls,  and  is  laid  with  encaustic  tiles;  and  the  pointed  roof  of  the 
nave  (67  ft.  high)  is  sustained  by  columns  whose  capitals  are  carved  in 
imitation  of  Canadian  plants.  Near  the  Cathedral  is  a  quaint  octagonal 
chapter-house,  used  also  for  the  diocesan  library;  and  the  house  of  the 
Lord  Bishop  (and  Metropolitan  of  Canada)  is  in  the  same  vicinity.  To  the 
N.  is  MoOill  College,  which  was  endowed  in  1814,  and  opened  in  1828. 
It  is  below  the  reservoir  on  Mount  Royal,  whence  a  charming  *  view  of 
the  city  and  river  may  be  gained.  Some  distance  W.  of  the  coll^,  and 
fronting  on  the  same  street  (Sherbrooke),  is  the  great  Seminary  of  St. 
Sulpice,  for  the  education  of  Roman  Catholic  priests.  On  St.  Catharine, 
near  St.  George  St.,  is  the  Asylum  for  the  Blind,  with  a  richly  frescoed 
chapel,  in  light  and  delicate  Romanesque  architecture.  W.  of  the  Cathe- 
dral is  the  Erskine  Church  (Presbyterian);  also  the  Church  of  St.  James 
the  Apostle,  a  €k)thic  1  uilding,  with  a  graceful  tower  and  spire.  Near 
the  old  cemetery,  on  Lt;i  Jiester  St.,  are  several  churches,  — the  Wesleyan 
Methodist,  in  the  English  Gothic  style;  the  American  Presbyterian,  an 
exact  copy  of  the  Park  Church,  in  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.;  and  the  Episcopal 
Church  of  St.  George,  in  decorated  Uolhic  architecture,  with  deep  tran- 
septs, costly  stained  windows, 'a  timber  roof,  and  fine  school-buildings. 
On  the  E.  side  of  this  square  is  the  Bishop's  Palace,  near  the  slowly 
rising  walls  of  the  new  Catholic  Cathedral,  which  is  to  be  built  on  the 
model  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome  (though  smaller).  Farther  to  the  W.,  on 
Dorchester  St.,  on  the  r.,  is  the  great  cruciform  building  of  the  Gray 
Nunnery  (founded  1692),  with  a  foundling  hospital  and  a  refuge  for  the 
infirm.  Mt,  ^e.  Mane  is  the  large  edifice  across  Dorchester  St.,  which 
was  built  for  a  Baptist  College,  but  is  now  a  ladies'  boarding-school,  con- 
ducted by  the  Black  Nuns,  who  have  67  schools  and  12,(X)0  pupils  in 
Montreal.    The  order  vas  founded  by  Marguerite  Bourgeoys  in  1659. 


126     RoiOeJl 


CHATEAUOAT. 


\i 


Farther  E.  «re  the  St  P»iil  and  the  Knoz  Chnrohes.  There  are  many 
other  notable  churches  and  public  buildings  in  the  city,  and  the  streets 
toward  Mount  Royal  are  lined  with  villas. 

There  are  pleasant  excursions  from  Montreal  to  Monklands  and  the 
Isle  Jesus;  to  Hochelaga,  the  vast  Convent  of  the  Holy  Name  of  Mary, 
and  Longue  Point;  to  the  Tanneries,  Cote  St.  Paul,  and  Lachine,  by 
carriage;  but  the  favorite  trips  are  to  the  mt.  and  the  rapids.  "Around 
the  Mountain,"  it  is  9  M.  by  going  out  St.  Lawrence  Main  St.,  by  the 
immense  Hotel  Dieu,  and  up  the  slopes  to  the  pretty  village  of  Cote  des 
Neiges.  Ascending  thence,  a  fine  view  is  soon  revealed,  including  the 
city,  a  broad  expanse  of  the  river,  with  the  bridge,  St.  Helen's  Isle,  and 
Longueuil,  and  the  blue  peaks  of  Vermont  in  the  S.  On  the  slope  of 
Mount  Royal  is  the  Cemetery,  which  is  entered  by  stately  portals,  and 
shows  some  creditable  monuments,  especially  those  of  the  Molson  family. 
The  Laohint  Bapida  (see  Route  28,  adfinem)  are  visited  by  taking  the  7 
A.M.  train  (at  the  Bonaventure  station)  to  Lachine,  whence  the  tourist 
desddnds  the  rapids  in  a  steamer,  and  reaches  Montreal  about  9  a.m.       '. 

The  *  Victoria  Bridge  is  the  longest  and  costliest  in  the  world.  It  consists 
of  23  spans  ot  242  ft.  eaclt  (the  central  one,  880  ft.)  resting  on  24  piers  of  blue  lime- 
stone masonry,  cemented  aud  iron-riveted,  with  sharp  wedge-faces  to  the  down 
current  The  tubes  containing  the  track  are  10  X  16  ft.,  and  the  bridge  is  ap- 
proached by  abutments  2,600  ft.  long  and  90  ft.  wide,  which,  with  the  6,694  ft.  of 
iron  tubing,  makes  a  total  length  of  0,194  ft.  ftom  grade  to  grade  and  over  1^  M. 
from  shore  to  shore.  The  bridge  was  begun  In  1854,  and  finished  in  1859 ;  it  con- 
tains 250,000  tons  of  stone  and  8,000  tons  of  iron,  and  cost  $  6,800,000.  There  is  a 
beautiftil  view  of  the  city  ftom  this  point. 

Ottawa  and  the  routes  thereto,  see  page  128. 


14.  lake  Champlain  to  Ogdensbnrg. 

By  the  Central  Vermont  R.  R  in  118  M.  (5-11  hrs.).  Stations,  Rouse's  Point : 
Champlain,  4  M. ;  Perry's  Mills,  7 ;  Mooer's,  12  (crossing  of  the  Montreal  and 
Plattsbnigh  R.  R.) ;  Mooer's  Forks,  15 ;  Wood's  Falls,  18 ;  Altona,  21 ;  Irona.  23 ; 
Forest,  26  ;  Dannemora,  28  ;  Ellenburgh,  29  ;  Brandy  Brook,  80 ;  Clinton  Mills, 
85 ;  Cherabusco,  87  ;  Chateausniy,  45 ;  Burke,  49 ;  Malone,  57 ;  Bangor,  63 ; 
Brush's  Mills,  68 :  Moira,  71 ;  Lawrence,  77 :  Brasher  Falls,  82 ;  Knapp's,  90 ; 
Potsdam,  93  (crossing  of  Rome,  Watertown  &  Ogdensbuig  R.  R.) }  Madnd,  101 ; 
Lisbon,  109 ;  Ogdensburg,  118. 

Soon  after  leaving  Rouse*s  Point  the  train  reaches  Champlain  (Mansion 
Houae),  a  prosperous  factory-village  on  the  Great  CThazy  River.  8  M.  be- 
yond is  Mooer's  Junction  (restaurant  in  station),  where  the  line  is  crossed 
by  the  Montreal  and  Plattsburgh  R.  R.  The  line  now  traverses  the 
extensive  and  desolate  Chateaugay  (pronounced  Shattagee)  Woods,  with 
occasional  glimpses  of  the  highlands  on  either  side.  The  soil  is^light  and 
the  settlements  are  small  and  rude.  This  wilderness  was  called  Oaarhe- 
hon  by  the  Indians.  At  Chateaugay  (Roberta  Home  ;  Union  Hotel)  the 
Chatvaugay  River  flows  through  a  gorge  nearly  200  ft.  deep,  which  is 
crossed  by  a  railway  viaduct  160  ft.  high  and  800  ft.  long. 


MALONB. 


Roi»U14,      127 


S  M.  8.  la  the  louwr  ChatmugoM  Lah$  (Bellows'  Hotel :  where  bonte  tod  gntdet 
may  be  obUined),  which  ii  24  M.  long,  and  haa  lofty  and  rugged  ahorea.  The 
Upper  Chateaugay  Lake  ta  5  If.  long  by  2  M.  wide,  and  ia  connected  with  the 
lower  lake  by  a  navigable  atream  called  the  Marrowa  (4  M.  long).  Rook  Island  is 
near  the  middle  of  thia  Uke,  and  Mt.  Lion  ia  on  the  8.  ahore.  The  Chazy  and 
Ragged  Lakea  and  aeveral  foreat-ponds  are  visited  fhtm  this  point,  and  the  hunt- 
ing and  Ashing  are  good.  Several  summer-villas  and  boarding-houses  are  aituated 
on  the  shores ;  also  Collins'a  Sporting  Lodge  and  the  spacloua  new  Adiromdouk 
JiouM.    A  email  ateamer  pliea  on  the  Lower  and  Upper  Lakea  and  the  Narrows. 

The  train  now  paSses  on  by  Burke  Hollow  and  traverses  extensive  pine- 
plains.  Station :  Xftlone  (*  Ferguson  House  ;  HogU  Houee),  the  capital 
of  Franklin  Co.,  a  thriving  manufacturing  village  of  4,000  inhabitants, 
situated  on  the  Salmon  River  nearly  midway  between  Rouse's  Point  and 
Ogdensburgh.  It  was  founded  by  men  of  Vermont  about  the  year  1800, 
and  was  plundered  by  the  British  in  1813  - 14.  This  village  has  become  a 
favorite  resort  for  sportsmen  on  account  of  the  fishing  which  is  found 
in  the  neighboring  ponds  and  streams. 

MaJUmt  to  Paul  Smith's  {St.  Regie  Lake). 

This  has  long  been  a  favorite  for  Western  and  Northern  tourists  entering  the 
wilderness.  The  distance  is  37  M.  (Parties  of  4  -  5  con  hire  a  carriage  at  Maluue 
at  reasonable  rates.) 

Nearly  1  M.  S.  of  the  village  the  road  passes  the  Springdale  Fish 
Farms,  where  great  numbers  of  trout  are  propagated.  About  8  M.  S.  is 
the  hamlet  of  Titusville,  at  the  Qreat  Falls  of  the  Salmon  River,  near 
which  is  the  State  Dam  (13  M.  from  Malone)  which  backs  up  the  Salmon 
River  in  the  spring-time,  to  afford  a  sufficient  h6ad  of  water  to  run  the 
logs  down  to  the  Malone  lumber-mills.  The  small  Sta^  Dam  House  is 
located  here ;  and  1  M.  distant  is  Round  Pond  (3x2  M.),  a  famous 
trouting-place,  amid  forest  scenery.  The  Deer  Fly,  Wolf,  Plumadore, 
and  Charley  Ponds  are  near  this  inn ;  and  5-6  M.  S.  E.  is  Ragged  Lake 
(sportsmen's  inn),  a  narrow  and  irregular  sheet  9  M.  long.  Mt  Lion  is 
seen  conspicuously  on  the  S.  shore;  and  many  trout  are  found  in  the 
clear  waters.  The  Chateaugay  Lake  is  4  M.  from  this  point  (by  forest- 
trail).  2  M.  S.  of  Titusville  is  the  Great  Bend  in  Salmon  River  (Myrtle 
Bower  House)  amid  pleasant  woodland  scenery.  The  old  mail-route  from 
Malone  to  Ausable  Forks  (52  M.)  diveiges  from  the  present  sub-route  at 
Duane,  and  rims  S  E.  by  the  Hunter's  Home  inn  (31  M.  from  Malone). 

Meaoham  Lake  is  reached  in  25  M.  from  Malone.  It  is  4  M.  long  by 
2  M.  wide,  and  is  dotted  with  pretty  islands.  Several  lines  of  lofty 
heights  environ  its  placid  waters,  and  a  beautiful  view  is  afforded  from 
Carpenter's  Hill,  a  moderate  elevation  in  the  vicinity.  The  De  Bar  and 
St.  Regis  Mts.  are  prominent;  and  there  are  several  sand-beaches  on  the 
borders.  On  the  N.  shore  is  situated  the  Meacham  Lake  House,  a  small 
hotel  where  guides  and  boats  may  be  secured.  Several  trout-abounding 
ponds  are  found  in  this  vicinity;  and  sportsmen  sometimes  visit  Paid 


128     MouUJS. 


If  A8SBNA  8PIUN0& 


Smith's  bj  a  water-roata  of  80  M.  (2  M.  of  curiu),  which  puiei  through 
the  Folingsbj,  Jr.,  Pond  and  St.  R«gii  River.  The  road  panes  on 
among  the  trees,  leaves  the  Chain  Ponds  and  Bice  Mt.  on  the  r.,  rounds 
Osgood  Pond  on  the  r.,  and  12  M.  beyond  Meaoham  Lake  reaches  Patd 
Smith's  (see  Route  18). .        

fieyond  Malone  the  train  passes  by  Brush's  Mills  to  M oira,  |  M.  N.  of 
Moira  village  (small  hotel).  Daily  Stages  run  S.  12  M.  to  Lincolnson 
(f  1),  whence  a  road  leads  to  the  Spring  Cow  Houae  (9  M.),  a  forest-inn 
at  the  9  M.  I>vel  on  the  St.  R^  River.  Trout  and  deer  are  found  in 
this  vicinity.  From  Braaher  Falls  station  (2  inns)  daily  stages  run  to  St 
R«gi8. 

Stages  mn  firom  Brasher  VaXlM  in  10  M.  (also  from  Potsdam  Jimctfcm  In  14  If.) 
to  Maseena  BprinwBiHarrowgate;  Hatfield  Houm),  whose  waten  are  saline- 
sulphurous,  and  are  beneficial  in  cases  of  cutaneous  diseases  and  gravel.  Thej 
resemble  the  celebrated  Eilsen  watera  of  Germany ;  and  but  8-4  tumblera  per 
day  should  be  talcen.  The  springs  aro  near  the  Raquette  River,  amid  very  pleas- 
«at  scenery,  and  are  12  M.  from  St.  Regis. 

The  train  now  passes  W.  to  Potadam,  where  the  Rome,  W.  fc  0.  R.  R. 
comes  in  from  the  8.  W.  Crossing  the  Raquette,  the  line  soon  reaches 
Madrid,  on  the  Grass  River,  beyond  which  the  level  town  of  Lisbon  is 
traversedi  and  the  train  enters  Ogdeiubarg  (see  Route  28). 


15.  Ogdensburg  to  Ottawa. 

Railroad-^ferry-boats  cross  from  the  Ogdensburg  station  to  Prescott  on 
the  arrival  of  trains,  and  local  boats  run  r^ularly  every  16  min.  The 
baggage  is  inspected  by  Canadian  customs-ofBcers  at  the  landing.  The 
St  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  Railway  runs  from  Prescott  to  Ottawa  iu  54  M. 
Time,  2^  hrs. ;  fare,  $2  (Canadian).  The  view  from  the  train  is  very 
tminteresting,  consisting  mainly  of  tangled  forests  and  occasional  cold  and 
rough  clearings.  The  counties  of  Grenville  and  Carleton  are  traversed, 
but  the  villages  of  Oxford,  Kemptville,  and  Manotick  are  all  remote  from 
their  stations.  From  Chaudi^re  Junction  a  branch  track  diverges  to  the 
great  saw-mills  above  the  Chaudi^re  Falls.  The  valley  of  the  Rideau  is 
soon  entered,  and  the  great  clusters  of  towers  and  pinnacles  qver  the  Par- 
liament Buildings  are  seen  on  the  L  The  station  is  over  1  M.,from  the 
Upper  Town. 

Ottawa. 

Hotels. —The  Russell  House,  02. 60  -  3,  near  the  Parliament  Buildings :  Daniel's 
Hotel,  Metcalfe  St.,  Upper  Town,  92 :  Albion  Hotel,  on  Court  House  Square. 

Sliope. — The  best  are  found  on  Sparks  St.,  but  goods  are  here  much  more  ex- 
pensive and  in  less  variety  than  in  MontreaL  Fun  are  a  specialty  of  this  city, 
and  gloves  may  be  bought  to  advantage. 

Horee-Cara  traverse  the  Upper,  Centre,  and  Lower  Towns,  fh)m  the  Chau- 
di6re  Falls  to  the  Rideau  Falls  and  New  Edinburgh  (on  Sparks,  Sussex,  and  Met- 
ealfe  Sts.).    Distance,  8  M. ;  fan,  6c. 


through 
Rd  ]MM«e8  on 
the  r.,  rounds 
treftohes  Paul 


ra,|M.  N.  of 
to  Lincolnson 
.),  a  forest-inn 
r  are  found  in 
iges  ran  to  St 

action  tn  14  M.) 
iters  are  saline- 
d  gravel.  They 
-4  tumblers  per 
anid  very  pleas- 

W.  k  0.  R.  R. 

)  soon  reaches 
I  of  Lisbon  is 


to  Prescotton 
16  min.  The 
landing.  The 
btawa  in  54  M. 
)  train  is  very 
jional  cold  and 
are  traversed, 
11  remote  from 
iiverges  to  the 
the  Rideau  is 
9  c^er  the  Par- 
1  M.ifrom  the 


I 

> 


!     1 


lldings ;  Daniel's 
[ouse  Square, 
r  much  more  ez- 
Ity  of  this  city, 

ftom  the  Chan- 
Ittssez,  and  Met- 


I.  Jliir-iiiij];  ffai'M-'ur I.*. 

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OTTAWA. 


Itouie  15,      129 


RaU^msrt. — The  Si  Lawrence  and  Ottawa,  to  Prescott  in  54  M.  The  Canada 
Central  to  Carleton  Place  (28  M.).  whence  the  Brockville.  and  Ottawa  mns  S.  to 
Brookville  (46  M.).  and  N.  to  Benfkew  (41  M.X  Other  lines  are  projected,  ea> 
pecially  two  to  Montreal. 

Steamboats* — The  Royal  Mail  Line  for  Montreal,  morning  and  evening  boats. 
The  Union  Forwarding  Co.'s  steamers  leave  Aylmer  for  Amprior,  Femliroke,  and 
Deux  Rivieres,  188  M.  N.  W.  (see  page  182X 

In  1613  Champlain  and  8  Frenchmen  ascended  the  Ottawa  for  above  Lalce 
Couionge  and  Isle  des  Alumettes,  passing  where,  "  on  their  L,  the  falling  cur- 
tain of  the  Bideau  shone  lilce  silver  between  its  bordering  woods,  and  in  firant, 
white  as  a  snow-drift,  the  cataracts  of  the  Chandiire  barred  their  way.  .... 
Here,  while  New  England  was  a  solitude,  and  the  settlers  of  Virginia  scarcely 
dared  venture  inland  beyond  the  sound  of  cannon-shot,  Champlam  was  plant- 
ing on  the  shores  and  islands  the  emblems  of  his  faith."  (Pabkman.)  In 
17(59  Philemon  Wright,  of  Wobum,  Mass.,  came  into  this  remote  wilderness  in 
search  of  a  new  home,  and  in  1798-99  he  made  other  explorations  here.  In 
1800  he  left  Wobum  with  25  men,  5  families,  14  horses,  8  oxen,  and  supplies,  and 
advanced  from  the  St.  Lawrence  to  the  Chaudiire  Falls  by  roads  of  his  own  cut- 
ting and  upon  the  frozen  river.  He  settled  at  the  foot  of  uie  great  portage  around 
the  falls,  and  b^^  an  energetic  campaign  against  the  forest.  By  1824  he  had 
cleared  3.000  acres,  made  a  road  120  M.  long,  and  built  a  village  which  had  a  popu- 
lation of  1,000  (mostly  New-EnglandersX  This  settlement  was  on  the  site  of  the 
present  villas  of  Hull,  while  the  chief  of  the  Highland  clan  of  McNab,  with  a 
krge  number  of  his  clansmen,  had  located  above.  But  Mr.  Wright's  capital  was 
limited,  and  at  one  time  he  owed  an  Irish  teamster  named  Sparks  for  arrears  of 
wages.  Having  no  money,  he  oflTered  him  the  tall  hills  beyond  the  river  in  pay- 
ment of  his  claim.  This  Sparlcs  contemptuously  refused,  but  afterwards,  conclud- 
ing that  the  hills  were  better  than  nothing,  he  took  them  in  lieu  of  $200.  It  was 
but  a  few  years,  however,  before  this  point  1>ecame  the  terminus  of  the  Rideau 
Canal,  and  Sir  John  Franklin,  in  an  address  at  the  foundation  of  the  canal-locks 
(in  1827),  predicted  that  the  Capital  of  Canada  would  be  here.  The  town  which 
soon  arose  from  the  canal-trade  and  the  lumber  business  on  the  river  was  named 
Bytown,  for  Col.  By,  of  the  Royal  Engineers,  who  surveyed  the  canal-route.  In 
1851  there  were  8,000  inhabitants  here,  living  in  a  very  crude  and  lawless  condi- 
tion. Some  years  later  it  was  deemed  best  that  Canada  should  have  but  one  capi- 
tal, and  the  ancient  provincial  capitals,  Quebec,  Montreal,  Kingston,  and  Toronto, 
strove  earnestly  for  the  honor.  The  contest  became  so  bitter,  and  so  little  clumce 
was  there  of  a  settlement,  that  the  question  was  referred  by  the  (Canadian  PsxUa- 
ment  to  Queen  Victoria  for  her  arbitration.  The  surprise  was  great  yrhea  she 
chose  Ottawa,  and  one  provincial  statesman  proclaimed  in  Parliament  "  I  tell 
you  candidly,  gentlemen,  you  might  as  well  send  the  seat  of  Government  to  Lab- 
rador." This  was  in  1858,  and  the  first  session  of  Parliament  here  was  in  1865, 
since  which  the  city  has  grown  rapidly  in  population,  cnltuie,  and  beauty. 

Ottawa,  the  capital  of  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  occupies  a  fine  sitna^ 
tion  at  the  confluence  of  the  Ottawa  and  Bideau  Biversi  It  is  divided 
into  three'sections,  known  as  the  Lower,  Centre,  and  Upper  Towns,  and 
is  connected  by  bridges  with  the  manufacturing  suburbs  of  Hulf  and  New 
Edinburgh.  The  city  is  now  in  a  very  unfinished  condition,  but  improve- 
ments are  rapidly  go\ng  on.  There  are  21,545  inhabitants,  many  of  whom 
are  connected  with  the  lumber  business,  and  over  8,000  are  French  Cana- 
dians. There  are  17  churches,  5  daily  paperst  and  7  banks.  Besides  the 
immense  lumber-mills  there  are  several  iron- works,  two  large  breweries, 
and  a  match-factory  employing  700  hands,  and  making  1,000  gross  daily. 

*  *  The  Parliament  Buildingi  are  situated  on  the  highest  land  in  the 
city,  and  occupy  a  plateau  of  30  aores,  160  ft  above  the  Ottawa  Biver. 
They  are  in  the  13th-century  Italian  Gtothic  architecture,  and  are  probably 
«♦  I 


130     Jtoute  tS» 


OTTAWAi 


M 


ilio  best  example  of  that  style  in  America  or  the  world.  The  material 
is  cream-oolored  Potsdam  sandstone  (from  Nepean),  with  trimmings  of 
Ohio  stone  and  Amprior  marble.  There  are  8  buildings,  forming  8  widely 
detached  sides  of  a  quadrangle,  and  fronting  toward  Wellington  St.  The 
central  building,  or  Parliament  House,  is  472  ft.  long  and  670  ft.  deep, 
and  covers  an  area  of  82,866  square  ft  With  its  long  lines  of  pointed 
windows,  its  massive  buttresses,  and  the  18  towers  and  many  pinnacles, 
it  is  only  excelled  in  majestic  beauty  by  the  Capitol  at  Washington.  In 
the  centre  of  the  front  is  a  noble  Victoria  towor  180  ft.  high,  very  massive 
and  well  ornamented,  and  surmounted  by  a  great  iron  crown.  The  main 
entrtece  is  through  the  broad  arches  under  this  tower,  and  the  quaint 
•qd  delicate  carvings  on  and  about  the  capitals  of  the  inner  columns  should 
]>e  noticed;  also  the  imperial  arms  above  the  doorway.  A  bare  and  spa> 
cious  lobby  is  entered  from  this  point,  wj^  a  line  of  pointed  arches  npr 
held  by  marble  columns.  The  front  of  the  building  is  occupied  by  com- 
mittee-rooms and  offices,  and  the  Parliament  Halls  are  in  two  lofty  wings 
extending  to  the  N.  Ascending  the  stairs  and  turning  to  the  1.  from  tke 
entrance  the  Chamber  of  Commons  is  soon  reached.  Tffe  hall  is  82  X  45 
1^,  and  50  ft.  high,  and  is  richly  furnished.  It  is  surrotmded  by  pilasters 
pt  gray  marble  from  Portage  du  Fort,  supplemented  along  the  galleries  by 
dusters  of  smi^l  columns  of  dark  Amprior  marble,  which  sustain  pointed 
lurches  of  gray  marble.  Above  the  galleries  (which  seat  1,000  persons)  arQ 
lines  of  long  lancet-windows  filled  with  stained  glass.  The  roof  is  of  glass 
inct  stained  wood,  and  is  provided  with  gas-jets  and  refleotors  for  nlgh| 
sessions.  The  lobbies  of  the  Chamber  of  Commons  and  of  the  Senate  are 
lined  with  portraits  of  Canadian  statesmen,  some  of  which  possess  much 
artistic  merit.  The  Senate  Hall  is  reached  to  the  r.  from  the  entrance, 
i^nd  is  of  the  same  size  as  the  Commons.  .  At  the  upper  end  of  this  hall  is 
the  vice-n^  throne  and  canopy,  flauked  by  busts  of  the  Princess  Alex- 
andra and  the  Prince  of  Wales.  At  the  opposite  end  is  a  marble  statu^ 
vi  Queen  Victoria  (by  Wood),  above  which  is  a  portrait  of  that  lady  at 
the  time  of  her  coronation.  At  the  same  side  are  full-length*  portraits 
of  Kilig  Gteorge  III.  and  Queen  Charlotte,  both  by  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds. 
On  the  !^.  ttont  of  the  buUding  a  unique  and  imposing  structure  has  been 
built  for  the  Library.  It  is  a  16-sided  polygon,  90  ft.  in  diameter,  with 
enormous  buttresses  and  a  lofty  conical  roof.  The  library  (30  -  40,000 
Tol'umes)  is  to  be  removed  here  from  its  present  cramped  quarters.  The 
irr^ular  and  picturesque  stone  buildings  on  the  E.  and  W.  of  the  qiiad- 
rangle  are  used  by  the  various  departments  and  bureaux  cf  the  Govern- 
ment. The  E.  block  (318  x  258  ft. )  is  over  the  defile  of  the  Rideau  Canal, 
and  contains  the  offices  of  the  GU>vemor-(3eneral,  the  Secretary  of  State, 
the  Privy  Council,  the  R^istrar,  Reoeiver-Qeneral,  and  Minister  of  the 
Militia,  and  the  Departments  of  Costomsi  Inland  Revenue,  and  JusjUcsu 


OTTAWA. 


JtouUlS.      131 


The  W.  block  (277  x  211)  contains  the  Departments  of  Pnbliq  Works, 
Post-Office,  Militia,  and  Marine  and  Fisheries,  with  the  Bureau  of  Agri< 
culture  and  the  Model-room  of  the  Patent  Department.  From  the  W. 
side  of  this  building  (or  of  the  Parliament  House)  is  afforded  a  fine  *  view 
over  and  far  up  the  river,  with  vast  lumber-yards  lining  the  shores  and 
the  bright  Ghaudi^re  Falls  in  sight.  The  quadrangle  is  being  terrace<l 
and  planted  with  trees,  and  the  front  is  lined  with  a  costly  stone-wall. 
A  pleasant  ramble  has  been  arranged  along  the  cliffs  which  descend  sheer 
from  the  plateau  to  the  river,  and  an  iron  bridge  has  l)eeu  thrown  a.'^ross 
the  Rldeau  Canal  n^r  the  buildings.  The  comer-stone  of  the  Parlia- 
ment House  was  laid  by  the  Prince  of  Wales  in  1860,  and  the  total  cost 
of  the  buildings  has  been  $4,000,000.  The  oflSoial  residence  of  the  Gov- 
enior-General  (theMarquisofLome)isatiRtd^u  ffeill,  in  New  Edinburgh. 

Tliere  are  some  fine  commercial  buildings  on  the  trro  main  streets,  — 
Sparks  and  Sussex, — and  the  Churches  of  St.  Patrick  (Cath.),  St.  Andrew 
(Pres.),  and  Christ  (Epis.)  are  handsome  stone  structures.  The  Cathedral 
de  Notre  Dame  is  a  lofty  and  spacious  building,  with  openworked  twin- 
spires  (200  ft.  high)  and  a  light  interior,  containing  a  picture,  *'  The  Flight 
into  Egypt,"  which  is  attributed  to  Mifrillo.  The  hall  of  the  InstittU 
Canadien-Frangais  (300  members;  6,000  volumes  in  library)  is  opposite 
the  Cathedral,  and  the  Bishop's  Palace  is  alongside.  The  Gray  Nunnery 
(the  Mother-House  of  the  Province  of  Ontario)  is  a  large  stone  building 
at  the  comer  of  Bolton  and  Sussex  Sts.  There  are  150  nuns,  who  care 
for  5  hospitals  and  asylums  in  the  city.  The  Black  Nunnery  (Congrega- 
tion de  Notre;  Dame)  have  buildings  near  Cartier  Square.  The  Convents 
of  Bon  Pasteur  and  the  Fr^res  Oblats  are  also  substantial  buildings.  The 
Ottatoa  University  (on  Wilbrod  St.)  is  a  Catholic  institution;  and  the 
large  building  of  the  Protestant  Ladies'  College  stands  on  Albert  St 
The  City  Hall  and  the  Custom-House  are  in  process  of  erection,  and 
water-works  are  being  preparf  d  at  a  cost  of  $1,000,000.  In  the  ravine. 
R  of  the  Parliament  Buildings  are  the  8  massive  locks  of  the  Bideaa 
Canal,  which  was  built  in  1827-31,  from  Ottawa  to  Kingston  (126  M.), 
at  a  cost  of  $  2,600,000.  It  was  destined  for  transporting  troops  and 
supplies  in  case  of  a  war  with  the  U.  S.,  when  the  St.  Lawrence  might 
be  made  impassable;  and  is  now  used  for  freight  and  inland  commerce. 

The  *  *  Chanditoe  Falli  are  about  1 M.  from  the  Parliament  Buildings 
(horse-cars  in  15  min. ),  and  are  often  ranked  next  to  Niagara.  The  Ottawa 
River  (after  passing  the  Rapides  des  Chines)  is  here  narrowed  to  200  ft., 
and  plunges  down  40  ft.  over  an  uneven  ledge,  producing  an  incessant 
roaring,  and  sending  off  clouds  of  misty  spray.  The  N.  channel  leaps 
down  the  Little  Chaudi^re  Fall  and  disappears,  emerging  again  ^  M. 
below.  The  falls  are  seen  to  advantage  from  the  graceful  suspension- 
bridge  which  connects  Ottawa  and  Hull  and  the  two  provinces;  for  tha 
Ottawa  River  is  the  boundary  between  Ontario  and  Qoebeo. 


132     BmUlB,         THE  OTTAWA  RIVER.  ^ 

To  obviffite  the  dettaraotion  of  timber  in  plunging  over  the  fUls,  a  series  of  slides 
has  been  constructed  by  a  canal  |  M.  long  around  the  Chaudi^.  40,000,000  ft 
of  timber  descend  here  yearly,  and  tourists  sometimes  make  the  exciting  passage 
of  the  slides  (by  permission  m>m  the  raftsmen).  Ottawa  is  the  chief  lumber-mart 
of  Canada,  and  in  the  7  mills  about  the  falls  4,500  men  are  employed,  producing 
yearly  about  200,000,000  ft.  of  pine  lumber,  of  which  46-55,000,000  ft.  is  kept 

Jiled  near  the  mills.  270,000  gross  of  matches,  600,000  pails,  45,000  tubs,  and 
2,000  zinc  wash-boards  are  made  here  yearly.  16,000  men  are  employed  in  the 
vast  forests  o ;'  the  Ottawa  and  its  tributaries, — the  Oatineau,  Madawfaka,  Conlonge, 
Black,  Fetewawa,  and  Riviere  du  Moine,  — 10,000  men  are  in  the  river-miUs,  and 
17,000  sailors  man  the  1,200  vessels  which  carry  away  the  timber. 

The  *  Bideau  Falli  are  worthy  of  a  visit  They  are  reached  by  the 
horse-cars  running  E.  from  the  Upper  Town.  The  Rideau  River,  when 
within  a  few  rods  of  its  conflup  vie  with  the  Ottawa,  here  falls  over  a  preci- 
pice of  smooth  rock  50-60  ft.  deep.  The  falls  are  surrounded  by  mills, 
but  may  be  visited  by  leaving  the  street  at  the  E.  end  of  the  bridge. 

The  Upper  Ottawa  River. 

The  Ottawa  River  is  navirated  for  188  M.  al^ve  Ottawa  by  the  14  steamers  of 
the  Union  Navigation  Co.  The  portages  are  somewhat  troublesome,  but  toiirists 
fluently  take  this  route  to  visit  the  outposts  of  civilization,  or  to  reach  the  If. 
sporting-grounds.  Stages  run  tram  Ottawa  to  Aylmer  {Holt'$  Hotel),  a  largto 
village  with  4  churches,  whence  the  steamer  Jessie  vassels  starts  on  the  first  reach 
of  the  river  (early  in  the  morning).  As  the  pier  is  left,  the  range  of  the  Eauxlley 
Hills  is  seen  in  the  distance  l)eyond  Aylmer  Bay.  Long  lines  of  lumber-booms 
are  found  on  this  reach ;  and  the  steamer  passes  timber-rafts  beuring  low  square 
sails  and  numerous  huts,  and  great  islands  of  logs  drifting  down  to  the  Ottawa 
saw-mills.  These  rafts  are  managed  by  French 'Canadians  and  Indian  half-breeds, 
— hardy,  powerf^il,  and  semi-civilized  men,  who  still  chant  the  old  Norman  boat- 
songs  amid  these  wild  forests.  After  passing  several  landings,  the  steamer  stops 
at  noon  at  Pontiac  (36  M.  from  Ottawa),  where  the  river  sweeps  down  the  Chats 
Bapids  through  an  archipeliu;o  of  picturesque  islets.  From  this  point  horse-cars 
run  on  a  trestle-work  3  M.  long  (in  20  min.)  to  Union  Village,  whence  the  FYince 
Arthur  passes  out  on  the  Chats  Lake  (a  widening  of  the  Ottawa,  3  M.  broad  and 
25  M.  long).  The  steamer  stops  i^  Amprior  (2  inns),  a  prosperous  village  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Madawaska  River,  near  quairies  or  colored  marble  (auo  a 
station  on  the  Canada  Central  Railway,  69  M.  tiom  Brockville).  At  the  end  of 
the  lake,  the  Cheneaux  Rapids  are  slowly  ascended ;  and  at  5  p.  u.  the  tourist 
lands  at  Gould's,  and  rides  in  an  omnibus  over  a  wearisome  forest-road  18  M. 
long  (the  Grand  Portage).  From  Cobden,  the  Jason  GotiM  steams  out  on  Musk- 
rat  Lake,  and  runs  through  a  narrow  and  tortuous  channel  among  the  islands  to 
Pembroke (8.80 P.M.).  The  night  is  spent  at  this  place,  which  is  the  most 
important  village  N.  of  Ottawa,  and  is  also  a  supply-depot  for  the  remote  luml^er- 
camps.  The  Pontiac  leaves  Pembroke  at  7  a.  M.,  and  passes  through  the  dark 
and  cliff-lined  reach  called  Deep  River,  reaching  the  Des  Joachim  portage  at 
noon.  Beyond  this  point  the  Rocker  Capitaine  runs  for  20  M.;  and  thence  the 
Deiux  Rivims  passes  to  the  end  of  the  route,  188  M.  N.  W.  of  Ottawal  Steamers 
have  lately  begun  to  run  to  Mattawa,  a  remote  forest-hamlet  (and  a  post  of  the 
Hudson's  Bay  Company)  due  E.  of  Lake  Nipissing,  beyond  which  the  unexplored 
Ottawa  extends  toward  Hudson'^  Bay. 

The  Lower  Ottawa  River.  —  Ottawa  to  Montrecd. 

The  day-boats  leave  at  6.80  A.  m.,  and  reach  Lachine  at  4.20  p.  h.  (Montreal  at 
'  5  p.  M.).  The  Rideau  Falls  are  soon  passed  on  the  r. ;  and  1  M.  below  the  city 
the  Gatineau  River  comes  in  on  the  1.,  after  a  course  of  850  M.  The  boat  stops 
at  Buckingham  (plumbago  mines),  Thurso,  and  L'Orignal,  which  is  9  M.  from  the 
Caledonia  Springs  QaxQ^  summer  hotel).  "  The  Canadian  Hai^wgate  "  is 
crowded  with  visitors  in  August ;  and  its  waters  are  iodo-bromated  and  saline, 
beneficial  in  cases  of  gout,  rheumatism,  and  scroAila.  The  Intermittent  Spring 
Is  2  M.  from  the  hotel.    At  GfenviUe  the  traveller  tak«s  the  cars  aiound  the  Long 


LUZERNB  LAKR 


Jt(miel6.    133 


Saalt  ana  CarlUon  Rkpidi  to  CarUlon  (13  M.\  whence  another  xona  to  Bigaud, 
the  seat  of  the  Convout  of  St.  Anne.  Beyond  the  landings  of  Pointe•^RUX> 
Anglaia  and  Hudson  ie  Como,  at  the  head  of  the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mountains. 
On  the  1.  is  seen  the  Indian  vilLigp  of  Oka,  near  two  tall  hills,  the  highert  of 
which  is  called  Calvary,  and  is  h»ld  as  sacred  by  the  Indians.  The  Island  of 
Montreal  is  now  approached ;  and  at  St*  Axme  a  canal  is  entered,  and  the  Iwat 
thus  avoids  the  mpids,  and  passes  under  ttie  great  railway-bridge.  It  tljen 
traverses  Lake  St.  Louis  to  Lachine,  whence  the  railway  is  taken  to  MoatreaL 
In  the  quaint  old  village  of  St.  Anne,  Tom  Moore  wrote  his  Canadian  Boat-Song, 

hwinning,— 

*'  Faintly  u  tolla  the  cTenlng  chime. 
Our  voices  keep  tune,  and  our  oam  keep  time. 
8oon  M  the  woods  on  ehore  look  dim. 
We  'II  ting  at  St.  Anne'a  our  evening  hyinn. 
Row.hrothen,  row,  the  ■treun  rum  tut. 
The  Bapids  are  near,  and  the  daylight  %  past 

"Uttf.wae'  tide  I  thli  trembling  moon 
Shall  we  ui  float  o'er  thy  ■nrees  loon. 
tiWnt  of  this  green  Isle  I  hear  our  prayers  t 
O,  grant  us  cool  heavens  and  fiivoring  airs  I 
^low,  breezes,  blow,  the  stream  runs  tut. 
The  Bapida  are  near,  and  the  daylight  '•  poat" 

16.  Saratoga  to  the  Schroon  and  Baqnette  lakes. 

By  the  Adirondack  Railroad  to  North  Creek  (57  M.),  and  thence  by  stage  to  Bluet 
Mt  Lake  in  9- 12  hrs.  (27  M.l  Passengers  leaving  Albany  or  Saratoga  by  early 
trains  can  reach  Blue  Mt.  Lake  the  same  night  fure  to  Hadley  (Luzerne),  91 ; 
to  Thumum,  $1.75;  to  Aiverside,  $2.25.  The  Adirondack  Railroad  is  being 
made  for  the  purpose  of  opening  the  great  forest  of  N.  New  York,  which  it  will 
cross  diagonally  to  Ogdemiourg  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  rich  deposits  of  iron 
about  Mt.  Marcy  will  theit  be  utilized,  and  a  new  route  will  be  made  for  Western 
grain  moving  to  the  seabourd.  The  line  was  first  projected  in  1854,  and  500,000 
acres  of  land  were  acquired  by  grant  and  purchase.  The  57  M.  of  track  already 
laid  (with  its  equipments)  ^ostl  2,000,000. 

Statioru,  Sarat(wa ;  Grbenfield,  6  M.  ;  King's,  10 ;  S.  Corinth,  IS ;  Jessup's 
Landing.  17  :  Hadley,  22  ;  Stony  Creek,  80  ;  Thurman,  36 ;  The  Glen,  44 ;  Wash- 
bum's  Eddy,  47  ;  Riverside,  50 ;  North  Creek,  57. 

The  tmn  leaves  the  B.  &  S.  station  at  Saratoga  and  soon  enters  the 

Eayaderosseras  Valley,  —  a  belt  of  fertile  land  devoted  to  dairy-farms  and 

apple-orchards.    It  is  6  M.  wiae,  and  is  bounded  by  the  Palmertown  and 

Eayaderosseras  Ranges  of  mts.    Station,  Qreenjield,  near  which  Schuyler 

and  600  Dutchmen  and  Mohawks  defeated  625  Frenchmen  and  Algon- 

quins  while  on  theli*  retreat  from  a  foray  against  the  Mohawk  castles. 

The  French  lost  60  men,  and  then  retreated  rapidly  with  their  dog-sledge 

provision-trains,  crossing  the  Hudson  on  a  bridge  of  ice.     The  train  passes 

along  the  ba&e  of  Mt.  Anthony,  crosses  the  Sacandaga  on  a  lofty  bridge, 

and  stops  at  Hadley  {Cascade  ffotise,  $  12- 15  a  week),  a  small  hamlet  at 

the  confluence  of  the  Hudson  and  Sacandaga  Rivers.    On  the  opposite 

bank  of  the  Hudson  is  the  mt.  village  of  Laxeme  {*Waj/3ide  Hotel, 

$3.50  a  day;  * RockfwelVa  Hotel,  $3  a  day,  $14-21  a  week;  Wilcox 

House,  $  14  - 18  a  week).    The  lofty  hemispherical  hill  called  the  Potash 

is  near  the  village,  and  overlooks  the  cluster  of  mts.  about  the  glen. 

Jessup's  Little  Falls  are  near  Luzerne,  where  the  Hudson  dashes  tlirough 

a  narrow  gorge  and  falls  between  high  cMs.    Phelps'  Bay  (Tiserando, 

"the  meeting  of  the  waters")  is  at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers,  and 


134     RwU  16, 


SGHBOON  LAKB. 


«fforda  abundant  pickerel  and  bass  fishing.  Lmeme  Lake  Is  a  small  bodj 
of  water  near  the  village,  700  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  rich  in  quiet  beauty. 
Several  small  boats  are  kept  here  for  visiting  parties.  Jessup's  Landing 
is  5  M.  S.  by  a  pleasant  river>road;  Conklingville  is  6  M.  W.,  up  the  Sa- 
tjandaga  Valley ;  and  Lake  George  is  10  M.  N.  £.  by  a  road  which  passes 
through  pleasant  scenery. 

The  Mohawka  bad  a  favorite  rendezvous  on  the  W.  shore  of  the  lake,  and  here 
King  Hendrick  and  his  men  encamped  while  marching  to  their  destruction  at  the 
battle  of  Lake  George.  Sir  John  Johnson  led  a  force  by  this  point  in  1781,  and 
occupied  his  old  mansion  lohg  enough  to  i-emove  the  fiamUy  plate  t  >  Canada.  The 
name  of  the  lake  was  given  in  honor  of  the  Chevalier  de  hi  Luzerne,  French  Am- 
bassador to  the  U.  S.  from  1778  to  1789.  The  village  is  much  visited  in  summer 
on  account  of  its  scenery,  the  facilitieci  for  fishing,  and  the  pure  air  of  its  lofty 
pine-plains.    Fare  from  New  Tork  to  Lake  Luzerne,  1 6.16. 

WoJf  Creek  station  is  situated  near  Isii^  quarries  of  red,  gray,  and 
green  granite.  Stoivy  Creek  is  2  M.  E.  of  the  mt.  hamlet  of  Creek  Centre 
(2  inns).  Thurrfutn  station  is  1  M.  from  Athol  and  6  M.  from  the  large 
marble  and  verd-antique  quarries  ({tboundiug  in  Efxtoon  Canadense)  at 
Kenyontown.  Stages  leave  ThurmaLr  semi-daily  (in  summer)  for  Lako' 
.Geoige,  9  M.  S.  E.  By  this  road  the  Schroon  River  is  followed  to  War- 
renaburgh  (Adirondack  House),  a  manufacturing  village  on  a  lofty  plateau 
surrounded  by  hills.  Beyond  this  point  the  plank  roa<i  passes  through  a 
hill-gap,  and  descends  to  the  plains  of  Caldwdl  (see  pai»  104). '  The  train 
now  enters  Johnsbuigh,  with  the  Kayaderosseras  Mts.  on  the  L  Their 
chief  peak  ia  CTrane  Mt.,  3,500  ft.  high,  near  whose  summit  is  a  pond 
.which  is  frequented  by  cranes.  The  profile  of  this  mt.  as  seen  from  War- 
rensburgh  (11  M.  S.  E.)  resembles  that  of  the  human  face.  The  Olen 
station  is  5  M.  S.  W.  of  Chestertown  (Cheater  House)^  which  is  near 
Friend's  and  Loon  Lakes.  To  the  N.  E.  is  the  wildeiness-town  of  Hori- 
con,  dotted  with  ponds,  the  chief  of  which  is  Brant  Lake  (10  M.  long), 
surrounded  by  the  rocky  peaks  of  the  Kayaderosseras  range.  At  the 
Hiverside  station  is  a  long  suspension  bridge  over  the  Hudson,  and  here 
stages  connect  for  Schroon  Lake  (fare$l)  and  Chester.  By  this  road 
PottersvUle  is  reached  6  M.  from  Riverside.  A  short  distance  N.  is  a 
rapid  stream  which  falls  into  a  basin  and  thence  enters  a  snow-white 
natural  arch  40  ft.  high,  where  it  flows  for  247  ft.  Stages  leave  l^otters* 
ville  for  Minerva  and  CSiester. 

'  Bokroon  Lake  is  1  M.  from  PottersvUle  (steamers  up  the  lake  semi- 
daily  ;  75c. ).  It  is  10  M.  long  by  2  M.  wide,  and  is  surrounded  by 
Wooded  hills  and  mts.  It  was  a  part  of  the  French  seigniory  of  D'Alain- 
ville  granted  to  De  Lotbiniere  in  1758,  and  was  afterwards  included  in  the 
great  baronial  estate  of  Gilliland.  Some  authorities  claim  that  its  name 
is  derived  from  a  Saranac  Indian  word  meaning  "daughter  of  the  moun- 
tain " ;  but  there  is  a  border  tradition  that  it  was  visited  by  a  party  of 
French  ofiicers  before  the  Conquest  of  Canada,  and  was  named  in  honor 


LONG  UJOL 


JbmUJg,      139 


of  Madame  Scarron  (Maintenon),  the  wife  of  Louis  XIV.  of  Fnmoe.  The 
Bccnery  about  the  foot  of  the  lake  is  of  little  intereat,  and  the  steamer 
passes  on  to  Mill  Creek  (E.  shore),  where  the  new  WelU  Houh  (open  only 
in  summer)  is  situated.  Glimpses  are  now  gained  of  Diz  Peak,  the  Boreai 
Spires,  and  othdr  lofty  summits  of  the  Adirondacks.  The  shores  grow 
more  rugged  and  picturesque,  and  Mt.  Pharaoh  is  seen  on  the  r.  ftront 
The  steamer  stops  on  the  W.  shore  at  Schroon  Lake  Village  (*  Lekmd 
BouMf  on  a  bluff  overlooking  the  lake  for  5  M. ;  Ondaioa  Hotel;  Taylor 
MofUM  ;  and  several  summer  boarding-houses).  Boats  and  guides  for  ex- 
eursions  on  the  lake  or  into  the  forest  may  be  obtained  here.  The  most 
beautiful  spot  on  the  lake  is  Uola  Bella,  with  its  villa  and  gardens.  Sev- 
ern Mt.  is  2  M.  N.  and  is  often  ascended  by  a  wagon-road  (3,000  ft)  for 
its  extensive  over-view.  Mt.  Pharaoh  (4,000  ft  high)  is  across  the  lake,' 
and  may  be  ascended  with  guides.  At  its  E.  base  is  the  trout-abounding 
Pharaoh  Lake  (7  M.  long),  which  is  also  visited  from  Hague,  on  Laka 
George.    Paradox  Lake  is  also  much  visited  (see  i>age  136). 

Beyond  Riverside  the  raUroad  runs  N.  W.  to  its  present  terminus  at 
North  Creek  {Adirondack  Home  ;  Rogers  Hotel),  Strenuous  efforts  are 
being  made  to  carry  the  line  forward  by  the  Adirondack  Iron  Worics  and 
Long  and  Tupper  Lakes,  to  its  objective  point  at  Ogdensbnrg.  Daily 
stages  run  to  Minerva  (Alpine  House  ;  8  M. ;  fare,  $  1)  in  a  forest-covoed 
town  between  the  Schroon  and  Boquet  ranges. 

;  Long  Lake  is  reached  by  maikitages  leaving  Minerva  every  Wednesday 
at  7  A.  M.  (fare,  %  5),  ai^d  running  N.  by  Aiden  Lair  and  through  a  chaos 
of  mts.  to  ToAaiouA  (Lower  Iron  Works),  which  is  situated  in  a  glen  4  M. 
N.  of  Boreas  River,  and  has  a  small  forest-tavern.  The  road  from  Minerva 
to  Adirondack  crosses  the  Crown  Point  and  Carthage  military  road  at  this 
point,  and  passengers  for  Long  Lake  turn  W.  on  the  latter.  8  M.  W.  of 
Tahawus  is  the  small  village  of  Newcomb  {Neweomb  Hotel;  Davie**  Aimt 
Polly  I:m)t  where  guides  and  boats  may  be  obtained.  On  order  by  rfi^xy 
(weekly)  teams  will  be  sent  from  the  hotel  to  North  Creek  or  Biversido 
for  parties.  Lakes  Harris  and  Rich  are  quite  near  the  vm^e,  and  Lake 
Delia  is  3  M.  N.  E.  The  Chain  Lakes  are  visited  Arom  this  point,  whUe 
the  Catlin  Lake  route  leads  to  the  foot  of  Long  Lake  in  13  M.  (3  M.  of 
carries).  Soon  after  leaving  Newcomb,  the  road  follows  Rich  Lake,  on 
the  r.,  and  traverses  extensive  forests  to  Long  Lake  Village,  20-22  M. 
from  Tahawus,  and  44  M.  from  North  Creek. 

Blue  Mcnntalii  Lake  is  27  M.  W.  of  X.  Creek,  Inr  a  road  which  *»««• 

Indian  Lake.    It  is  thought  that  a  stage-line  will  serve  this  route  '- 


-  -  ,  i)ut  in 

any  case,  teams  and  drivers  may  be  obtained  at  the  N.  Creek  hotels.  The  road 
is  rugged,  and  runs  W.  through  a  desolate  country,  traversed  by  lofty  ranees  of 
hills.  Waahbume'a  Hotd  is  on  Indian  River,  15  M.  out  (fare,  $1.40) ;  and  a  trail 
leads  thence  4  M.  S.  to  Indian  Lake,  a  sequestered  and  solitary  sheet  about  4  M. 
long.  It  is  25  M.  by  river  and  road  ftova  this  point  to  Sageville.  8  M.  beyond 
Indian  River  is  Jwikaon'a,  on  Cedar  River,  where  guides  and  supplies  may  be  ob- 
tained. The  road  passes  W.  for  9  M.  by  Rock  Lake  to  Blue  Mt.  Lake  (see  Route 
28,  ad  fintm\  on  which  a  new  hotel  is  being  built    12  M.  W.  is  RaquetU  Lake. 


186    nouuir. 


PARADOX  LAKE. 


17.   Sohroon  Lake  to  the  Southom  AdirondaolDiL 

Sohioon  Lake  to  Root's,  9  M.  (Crown  Point  to  Boot's,  18) ;  Fenton's,  14 ;  BoreM 
Biver,  20 ;  Toliawus,  28 ;  Newcomb,  80 ;  Long  Lake,  61. 

The  road  follows  the  valley  of  Schroon  Rivfr,  with  the  long  slopes  of 
Spirit  Mt  and  the  Blue  Ridge  on  the  W.  At  a  point  3-4  M.  N.  of 
Sohroon  Lake,  the  bright  waters  of  Paradox  Lake  are  seen,  2-8  If.  W. 
This  sheet  of  water  is  over  6  M.  long,  and  affords  considerable  fishing. 
firoU*»  Hotel  is  near  its  head,  9  M.  from  Schroon  Lake;  10  M.  from  Root's; 
18  M.  from  Ticonderoga ;  and  16  M.  from  Grown  Point  About  2  M.  S. 
B.  is  Long  Pond,  and  Pyramid  Pond  is  1  M.  S.,  while  several  other  se- 
questered lakelets  lie  in  the  vicinity.  The  intersection  of  the  Crown 
Point  road  is  soon  passed,  and  then  a  broad  and  barren  plain  is  traversed 
until  Boot*!  Inn  is  reached,  9  M.  from  Schroon  Lake.  This  house  ac- 
commodates 40-60  guests  at  $  10  a  week,  and  is  a  famous  resort  for 
sportsmen. 

The  routes  westward  from  Ticonderoga  and  Crown  Point  meet  at  this  point. 
Ticonderoga  is  23  M.  8.  E.  of  Boot's,  and  the  road  passes  Paradox  Lake  and  Long 
Pond.  The  distance  firom  Crown  Point  to  Boot's  is  18  M.,  the  first  half  of  which 
leads  up  the  valley  of  Put's  Creek. 

The  Oreat  Ncrthem  Highwaiy. 

The  tri-weekly  mail-stage  from  Schroon  Lake  continues  from  Root's  on 
the  Great  Northern  Highway,  with  the  lofty  Dix  Peak  in  advance.  After 
passing  through  three  deserted  villages',  it  enters  a  wide  and  tangled 
forest,  and  ascends  the  water-shed  heights.  Thence  it  runs  down  into  the 
Boquet  River  Valley,  with  the  imposing  peaks  of  the  Giant  of  the  Valley 
on  the  W.  When  near  New  Russia  the  Split  Rock  FaUs  on  the  Boquet 
are  seen  by  the  roadside,  and  a  little  farther  N.  another  fine  cascade  openi 
on  the  1.  22  M.  N.  of  Root's  (32  M.  from  Schroon  Lake)  the  beautiful 
village  of  EUiabcithtown  (see  page  141)  is  reached.  The  stage  arrives 
here  at  2  p.  m.,  and  waits  for  dinner,  after  which  it  goes  N.  to  KeesevUle, 
passing  the  Boquet  Mts.  and  traversing  (for  3  M.)  the  romantic  gorge 
known  as  Poke-a-Moonshine.  Schroon  Lake  to  EeeseviUe,  52  M. ;  time, 
12  hrs. ;  fare,  $4.25.  In  going  S.  from  Keeseville,  Elizabethtown  is 
passed  at  11  a.  m.,  and  dinner  is  obtained  (at  4  P.  M. )  at  Root's. 


Root's  Inn  is  situated  on  the  ancient  State  military  road  from  thrown 
Point  to  Carthage,  crossing  the  Wilderness  in  133  M.  This  highway  has 
fallen  into  disuse,  but  is  still  (barely)  passable  with  the  exception  of  a 
section  of  16  M.  between  Stillwater  and  Beach's  Lake.  Parties  some- 
times hire  conveyances  from  Root's  to  Long  Lake,  42  M.  W.,  accomplish- 
ing the  trip  in  one  long  day.  Fine  sporting  i»  found  to  the  S.  and  S.  W. 
of  the  inn,  while  the  obscure  trail  which  leads  by  Chapel  Pond  to  the 
Eeene  Valley  (18  -  20  M.)  passes  through  noble  scenery.   It  is  11  M.  from 


ADIBONDAGK. 


JttmUir,      137 


this  point  to  the  Hunter's  Pan.  Fusing  W.  for  ff  M.,  FerUon*s  Inn  U 
reached,  near  the  fishing-grounds  on  the  rugged  slopes  of  the  Blue  Ridge. 
A  forest-road  here  diverges  to  the  N.,  leading  to  Clear  Fond  {Lake-Slide 
Inn)  in  4  M.,  and  to  the  inn  on  Mud  Pond  in  5  M.  These  sequestered 
waters  are  environed  with  mti.,  and  a  bridle-path  conducts  thence  to  the 
top  of  Mi  Marcy,  16  M.  from  Fenton's.  A  difficult  trail  leads  from  the 
inn  at  Mud  Pond  to  the  summit  of  Dix  Peak,  4  M.  N.  &,  from  which  the 
view  includes  the  lakes  of  Schroon  and  Ghamplain,  the  chain  of  the  Oreen 
Mts.,  and  the  chief  Adirondack  Mts.  The  wonderful  gorge  known  as  the 
Hunter's  Pass  lies  at  the  base  of  this  peak.  It  is  6  M.  from  Fenton's  to 
Btdlard'a,  and  the  road  passes  between  Hayes  Mt  on  the  S.  and  the 
graceful  Boreas  Spires  on  the  N.  (forests  obstruct  much  of  the  view). 
BuUard's  is  near  the  Wolf  and  Sand  Ponds,  while  Boreas  Pond  is  3-  4 
M.  N.,  whence  a  trail  leads  to  the  Ausable  Ponds  and  the  Keene  Valley. 
The  road  now  crosses  the  Boreas  Valley,  and  in  8  M.  from  Bullard's  (19 
M.  from  Root's)  reaches  Tahavnu  (Lower  Works).  Tahawus  to  Long 
Lake,  see  page  135. 

Adirondaek  (Upper  Iron  Works)  is  11  M.  N.  of  Tahawus,  by  a  piO" 
turesque  road,  which  has  Lake  Sanford  on  the  K  for  6  M.  Mooters  Inn 
is  at  this  place,  and  the  vicinity  is  filled  with  objects  of  interest.  The 
immense  deposits  of  iron  and  the  iron  dam  across  the  river  were  discovered 
and  reported  by  an  Indian  hunter  in  1826.  Mining  was  soon  commenced, 
but  the  expense  of  freighting  the  ore  to  Lake  Ghamplain  was  too  heavy, 
and  after  some  years  the  village,  with  its  Ghurch  of  Tubal  Cain,  was 
abandoned,  and  has  since  remained  desolate.  The  tmfortunate  names  of 
two  of  the  chief  Adirondack  peaks,  McMartin  and  Mclntyre,  were  given 
in  honor  of  two  of  the  speculators  in  these  mines.  Lake  Sanford,  6  M. 
long,  and  girded  with  mts.,  is  1  M.  S.  of  Adirondack,  and  Lake  Hender- 
son, E.  of  Mt.  Henderson,  is  ^  M.  N.  and  3  M.  long.  Grand  mt.  views 
are  found  here,  and  from  the  trout-abounding  Preston  Ponds  (2  M.-  from 
Lake  Henderson  by  path).  6  M.  N.  W.  of  these  ponds  is  Ht.  Seward, 
the  Onnowanlah  of  the  Indians,  a  remote  peak  4,348  ft.  high,  which  is 
separated  firom  Ragged  Mt  (4,126  ft.  high)  by  the  Pass  of  Ouluska 
("  place  of  shadows  "),  where  panthers  abound.  Far  around  the  S.  base 
of  Seward  is  the  silent  district,  called  by  the  Indians  Coughaarageh^  "  the 
dismal  wilderness,"  while  Ampersand  Pond  and  Mt.  lie  on  the  N.,  and 
the  confluence  of  the  Cold  and  Raquette  Rivers  is  12  M.  S.  W.  The 
*  Adirondack  Pais  is  6  M.  N.  K  of  Adirondack  by  a  well-defined  trail. 
It  is  a  great  gorge  between  Mts.  Wallface  and  Mclntyre,  and  presents  a 
scene  of  wild  grandeur.  The  bottom  of  the  pass  is  2,901  ft.  above  the 
sea,  and  Wallface  fronts  on  the  W.  side  with  a  continuous  precipice  1  M. 
long  and  1,319  ft.  high.  6  M.  beyond  the  pass  is  the  hamlet  of  N.  iSba 
(see  page  145).    There  are  many  other  scenes  of  sublimity  and  beauty  in 


138     XauU  18, 


MOUNT  MAROT. 


i 


thifl  vicinity,  but  they  an  difflcalt  of  acceii,  ud  the  aoco«unod«tiotis  ot 
the  mt.  inns  are  very  limited. 

The  trail  to  the  lunimit  of  Mt.  Many  (aee  page  "i  *4)  ie  12  M.  long, 
and  very  arduous.  At  6  M.  N.  E.  ttota  Adirondack  the  path  reaches 
lake  Colden,  "  perfectly  embosomed  amid  the  gigantic  mts.,  and  looking 
for  all  the  world  like  an  innocent  child  sleeping  in  a  robber's  embrace." 
From  this  sheet,  2,851  ft.  above  the  tide,  flows  the  foamy  Opalescent 
River.  Far  up  the  Opalescent  gorge  to  the  E.  is  seen  Gray  Peak,  on 
which,  4,296  ft  high,  is  Summit  •  Water,  a  bright  mt.  tarn  from  which  the 
Hudson  flows.  1  M.  beyond  Colden  is  Avalanche  Lake,  around  which 
■tand  Wallface,  Mclntyre,  McMartin,  and  Colden  Mts.  The  long  slopes 
of  Maroy  arr  soon  encountered,  and  a  steady  climb  over  rocky  ledges  and 
steep  acclivities  conducts  to  the  summit.  After  passing  up  by  this  route 
the  mt.  is  often  descended  into  the  Keene  Valley. .  A  long  trail  leads  from 
Adirondack  to  Keene,  via  the  Ausable  Ponds. 


18.  Flatttbnrgh  to  the  Saranfto  Iskm, 


\ 


{Paid  Smith's  or  Martin's.) 

This  hM  long  been  tlie  favorite  entrance  to  the  Adirondacki,  and  la  well 
travelled  througnout  the  suninier.  The  train  leaves  the  station  (near  Fououet's 
Hotel)  of  the  K  Y.  and  Canada  R  R.  (which  follows  the  W.  shore  of  Lake  O^aiu- 
plain),  and  runs  S.  for  20  M.  (fare,  9 1),  passing  5  small  stations,  and  stopping 
at  Ausable  River.  This  point  is  the  present  B.  terminus  of  one  of  the  branches 
of  the  railroad  which  is  being  constructed  ftom  Whitehall  to  Montreal  on  the  W. 
side  of  Lalce  Champlain.  Kxcursion  tickets  (good  for  seveivl  weeks)  from  Boston 
to  Ausable  River  and  return,  either  by  way  of  Fitchburg  and  Burlington,  or  by 
Lowell  and  St.  Albans,  are  sold  for  •  10  (05  Washington  St. ;  tickets  also  |it  82 
Washington  Si } ;  also  ftom  New  York  City  (tickets  and  information  at  176  Broad- 
way, or  the  Hudson  River  R.  R.  and  steamboat  oihcesV  Through  tickets  may  be 
obtainetl  at  the  R  and  B.  R  R  offices  at  Albany,  Iroy,  and  Saratoga,  and  in 
Philadelphia  at  81 1  Chestnut  8t 

titages  are  in  waiting  at  Ausable  River  to  convey  travellers  to  Martin's,  Paul 
SmitlPs,  and  Keeseville.  Distance  to  Martin's,  SO  M.,  fai-e  84.00;  to  iSmith's,  SS 
M..  fare,  $4;  to  the  Prospect  House  (Upper  Saranac),  41  M. ;  to  Wilmiiigtou 
Notcli,  18-20  M. :  to  Keeseville  and  the  Ausable  Chasm,  10-12  M.  N.>  reguhir 
stage  runs  to  Cox  s,  but  conveyances  are  sent  thence  to  Bloumingdale  on  receipt 
of  telegrams  announcing  the  approach  of  guests.  It  is  tliought  that  a  line  of 
stages  will  run  to  Martin's  by  way  of  Wilmington  Notch. 

The  stage-route  follows  the  river  for  &  M.  to  AtuaMe  Forks,  a  pros- 
perous village  (3  inns)  at  the  confluence  of  the  W.  and  S.  Branches  of 
the  Ausable.  This  is  the  head-quarters  of  the  iron-works  of  J.  ahd  J. 
Rogers,  who  own  immense  tracts  of  land,  and  employ  over  2,000  men. 
They  run  22  forges  and  48  nail-machines,  consuming  4,500,000  bushels  Of 
charcoal  yearly,  and  making  80,000  kegs  of  nails,  besides  vast  quantities 
of  blooms.  The  plank  road  now  ascends  the  hills,  from  which  iWhiteface 
Mt.  and  other  peaks  are  seen  in  the  S.  W.,  and  passing  through  a  dreary 
region  of  recent  clearings  and  cold  and  sterile  soil,  traverses  the  iron- 
workers' village  of  Black  Brook  (6  M.  from  Ausable  River  station).  At 
Franklin  Falls,  20  M.  from  Ausable,  the  stages  stop  for  dinner.    Thia 


PAUL  SMITH'S. 


JtOMi*  a,     130 


dAtiOtM  Ot 

12  M.  long, 
ith  reaohM 
Ad  looking 
embrace.** . 
Opalescent 
yPeak,  on 
a  which  the 
rand  which 
long  slopes 
f  ledges  and 
\j  this  route 
Uleadsfrom 


,  and  is  w«n 

ior  FouQuet's 

f  Lake  Ohaiu- 

aiid  Btoppiiig 

'  the  branches 

[eal  on  the  W. 

i  from  Boston 

ington,  or  by 

BtH  also  at  82 

at  176  Broad- 

Ickets  niay  be 

itoga,  and  in 

lartin'B,  Paul 
t)  Smith's,  SS 
Wilniiiigtou 
N.)  reguUur 
on  receipt 
at  a  line  of 

rks,  a  prW- 
Jranches  of 
J.  and  J. 
I  2,000  men. 
bushels  of 
quantities 
LiWhiteface 
a  dreary 
the  iron- 
fttion).    At 
ler.    Thia 


tillage  was  attacked  (In  May,  1862)  by  a  Are  running  in  the  forest,  which 
utterly  destroyed  it  A  new  carriage-road  has  been  madajh>m  the  hotel 
to  within  I  M.  of  the  summit  of  Whiteface  Mt.,  and  guides  and  carriages 
for  tile  aA(%nt  are  ftimished  here.  The  trip  occupies  a  long  day  (fares, 
$  1.50  each  way).  The  stage  now  follows  the  Saranao  River  for  8  M.  to 
Bloomingdale  {*St.  Armand  Howie,  100  giiests),  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  W.  of  Whiteface  Mt..  and  about  1,600  ft.  above  the  sea.  Trout  aro 
found  in  the  Saranao  River  near  this  point,  and  in  Moose  and  Grass 
Ponds,  2-3  M.  to  the  S. 

9  M.  N.  of  Bloomtnsdale  (bv  a  road  which  crosses  Cape  Mi,  and  passes  the 
hamlets  of  Venuontville  and  MerriUsville)  la  LewU  SmUh'$  Hunttfi  Homt,  on  the 
N.  Saranao,  and  near  the  liiihing-grounds  of  Loon.  Mud,  and  P^und  Ponds. 
Roads  lead  thence  to  Flattsb'.irgh  (by  Elslnore,  SO  M.)  and  to  Malone  (tri-weekly 
mail-stage,  by  Duane,  81  M.).     iVaraney's  fishermen's  resort  is  on  Rainbow  Lake 

gM.  long),  9  M.  S.  W.  of  the  Hunter's  Home,  7  M.  N.  E.  of  Paul  Smith's,  and  0 
.  N.  W.  of  Bloomingdale. 

Martin's  is  reached  by  the  stage  about  6  P.  M.,  after  passing  iVom  Bloom- 
ingdale 8  M.  up  the  valley  of  the  Saranao.  Baker's  and  Blood's  inns  ara 
seen  when  the  lake  is  approached,  Baker's  being  2  M.  from  its  shore. 
*  Martin*!  Saranao  Lake  Eoase  accommodates  140  guests  ($2.50-8  a 
day),  and  has  a  fine  lake-view.  Guides,  boats,  and  camp-equipage  may 
be  obtained  here  by  those  who  wish  to  enter  the  remoter  forest.  Distance 
by  road  to  Paul  Smith's,  14  M.;  to  Cox's  (Upper  Saranac  Lake  House), 
16  M.;  to  Lake  Placid,  12  M.;  to  Wilmington  Notch,  16  M.;  to  Mt.' 
Marcy,  24  M.  Distance  by  water  to  Cox's,  20  M. ;  to  Bartlett's,  12^  M. ; 
to  Big  Tupper  Lake  (by  Sweeny's),  29  M. ;  to  Raquette  Lake  (by  Stony 
Creek),  66-60  M.  Good  fishing  is  found  on  Ray  Brook  and  other  trib- 
utaries of  the  Saranao  in  this  vicinity;  also  in  Mackenzie's  Pond,  4  M^. 
N.  E.,  under  Sugar-Loaf  Mt.  Colly  Pond  is  2  M.  N.  W.  of  the  hotel, 
and  2  -  3  M.  beyond  is  the  deer-haunted  Macauley  Pond.  Lonesome  Pond 
is  a  sequestered  loch  3-4  M.  S.  of  the  hotel,  gained  by  boating  down  the 
lake  and  a  "  carry  "  of  1  M.  But  next  to  the  frequent  and  easy  excur< 
sions  among  the  islands  and  bays  of  Saranad  Lake,  the  favorite  trip  is  to 
Lake  Placid,  12  M.  S.  E.  (see  page  145). 

*  '*  Paul"  Smith*!  {St.  Megis  House)  is  reached  by  the  stage  in  10  M. 
from  Bloomingdale.  It  accommodates  180-200  guests,  and  charges  $  2. 60 
a  day.  The  best  table  in  the  Wilderness  is  set  here,  and  the  house  is 
furnished  with  bath-rooms  and  barber-shop,  billiard-tables  and  telegraph. 
An  extensive  corps  of  guides,  with  camp-equipage  and  supplies,  may  be 
found  here.  The  hotel  stands  on  an  eminence  in  the  pine-forest,  and 
fronts  on  the  Lower  St.  Regis  Lake,  a  large  pond  from  which  flows  the 
Middle  Branch  of  the  St.  Regis  River.  Distance  by  road  to  Martin's,  14 
M. ;  to  Cox's,  17  M. ;  to  Malone,  36  M.  (see  page  127).  Distance  by  water 
to  Martin's,  80-82  M.j  to  Cox's,  12-14  M.;  to  Big  Tupper  Lake  (by 


140     Route  19. 


WHITEPACE  MT. 


!  1 


Upper  Saranac),  33-35  M.;  to  Raqnette  Lake,  64-66  M.  The  connected 
waters  of  Lo^r  St.  Regis,  Spitfire,  and  St.  Regis  Lakes  are  thoroughly 
explored  by  light  flotillas  from  the  hotel,  and  the  pretty  ponds  on  the 
"  route  of  the  9  carries  "  are  frequently  visited.  Osgood  Pond  is  just  N. 
of  Smith's,  and  several  other  lakelets  are  found  on  the  W.  Bay  Pond  is 
a  picturesque  sheet  about  12  M.  W.;  and  a  forest-road  leads  to  Wardney's 
Hotel,  on  Rainbow  Lake,  7  M.  N.  E.  A  pleasant  excursion  is  made  by 
following  the  Malone  road  for  12  M.  to  Meacham  Lake.  Parties  from 
Smith's  frequently  ascend  St.  Beg^s  Mt.,  a  long  and  lofty  ridge  seen 
from  the  front  of  the  house  to  the  S.  W.  There  is  a  rude  path  to  the 
summit,  and  the  excursion  takes  6-8  hrs.  The  view  over  the  St.  Regis 
and  Saranac  Lakes  is  beautiful ;  while  the  Chateaugay  Woods  are  seen  in 
the  N.  E.,  and  the  S.  E.  is  filled  with  the  lofty  Adirondack  peaks. 

19.  Port  Kent  to  the  Wilmington  Pass  and  Saranac  Lakes. 

The  stages  from  Fort  Kent  (see  page  118)  to  the  Lakes  have  hitherto  run  by 
liVanklin  Falls,  but  many  parties  have  preferred  to  charter  a  stage  (at  but  little 
extra  expense)  to  go  via  Wilmingttm  Pass  and  Whiteface  Mt.  It  is  said  that  a 
regular  line  of  stages  will  be  put  on  this  route.  Stages  from  Keeseville 

(5  M.  S.  W.)  and  the  Ausable  Chasm  connect  at  Port  Kent  with  every  Lake 
Champlain  steamer,  and  leave  Keeseville  for  Martin's  and  Smith's  daily  at  6.80 
A.  M.  The  returning  stages  leave  Martin's  at  7  a.  m.,  and  connect  with  the  train 
at  Ausable  River,  and  with  the  evening  boat  for  the  South  at  Port  Kent.  Trav- 
ellers from  the  East  cross  from  Burlington  to  Port  Kent  on  the  steam  ferry-boat. 
The  distance  trom  Port  Kent,  by  the  Pass,  to  Martin's  is  49  M. 

The  road  follows  the  Ausable  River  for  18  M.  to  Ausable  Forks,  passing 
the  famous  d^asm  in  3  M.,  and  Keeseville  in  5  M.  from  Port  Kent.  The 
Jay  and  Poke-a-Moonshine  Mts.  are  seen  on  the  S.,  while  Whiteface 
towers  conspicuously  in  advance.  At  the  Forks,  the  road  turns  to  the 
S.  W.,  following  the  valley  of  the  S.  Branch,  with  the  Ausable  Mts.  on 
the  W.,  and  the  Jay  Mts.  on  the  E.  Fine  views  are  afforded  of  the  Jay 
Valley,  with  the  lofty  peaks  of  Keene  in  advance.  From  the  little 
hamlet  oiJay,  the  lovely  Keene  Valley  (10-^13  M.  distant;  see  page  142) 
is  often  visited.  The  road  to  the  Pass  turns  W.  at  Jay,  and  crosses  to 
Wilmington,  24  M.  from  Port  Kent.  •  Another  road  is  'sometimes  taken, 
running  W.  from  Ausable  Forks  to  Black  Brook  village,  and  thence 
following  the  W.  Branch  (22  M.  from  Port  Kent).  At  Wilmington  is  the 
Whiteface  Mt.  House  (40-50  guests;  $10  a  week),  situated  amid  noble 
scenery.  *  Whiteface  Mt.  is  usually  ascended  from  this  point,  guides 
and  horses  being  furnished  at  the  hotel.  For  over  2  M.  carriages  are 
used,  and  then  the  ascent  is  on  horseback,  over  a  rugged  bridle-path  4  M. 
long.  There  is  a  comfortable  hut  near  the  summit,  where  quarters  for 
the  night  may  be  obtained.  Whiteface  Mt.  is  4,918  ft.  high  (survey  of 
1872),  and  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  a  landslide  has  laid  bare 
the  whitish-gray  ledges  near  its  summit.  The  sharpness,  bareness  and 
isolation  of  this  lofty  peak  render  the  *  *  view  one  of  peculiar  grandeur. 


THE  WILMINGTON  PASS.       JtauUtO,      Ul 


The  coimected 
are  thoroughly 
'■  ponds  on  the 
ond  is  just  N. 
,  Bay  Pond  is 
Is  to  Wardney'a 
.on  is  made  by 
Parties  from 
afty  ridge  seen 
ude  path  to  the 
er  the  St.  Regis 
)ods  are  seen  in 
Ic  peaks. 

ranac  Lakes. 

e  hitherto  run  by 
itage  (at  but  little 
It  is  said  that  a 
!8  from  Keeseville 
with  every  Lake 
ith's  daily  at  6.80 
ect  with  the  train 
Port  Kent.  Trav- 
steam  ferry-boat. 

e  Forks,  passing 
ort  Kent.    The 
irhile  Whiteface 
ad  turns  to  the 
lusable  Mts.  on 
rded  of  the  Jay 
'rom  the  little 
^j  see  page  142) 
and  crosses  to 
>metimes  taken, 
;e,  and  thence 
ilmington  is  the 
ited  amid  noble 
is  point,  guides 
carriages  are 
)ridle-path  4  M. 
ere  quarters  for 
high  (survey  of 
le  has  laid  bare 
!,  bareness  and 
uliar  grandeur. 


On  the  S.  Is  a  confused  mass  of  imposing  mts..  conspicnons  among  which  are 
the  Giant  of  the  Valley,  Mclutyre,  Wallface,  and  the  pre-eminent  Mt  Marcy. 
Close  below,  on  the  S.  W..  is  the  lovely  Lake  Placid,  divided  by  its  chain  of 
islets  ;  and  away  beyond  is  the  heavy  mass  of  Mt.  Seward.  On  the  W.,  beyond 
Sugar-Loaf  Mt.,  the  silv3ry  Saranac  Lakes  are  seen,  with  scores  of  ponds  stud- 
ding the  forest.  Big  Clear  Poiul  is  due  W.,  below  St.  Regis  Mt.  It  is  claimed 
that  Lake  Ontario,  125  M.  S.  of  W.,  may  be  seen  on  a  clear  day,  and  that  across 
the  vast  rolling  wilderness  to  the  N.  mny  be  discerned  the  flash  of  the  tin  roofs 
of  Montreal,  80  M.  away.  The  whole  Saranac  Valley  is  under  view  to  the  N.,  and 
also  the  dark  Chateaugay  Woods.  On  the  E.  is  Lake  Cliamplain,  beyond  which 
is  the  long  line  of  the  Green  Mts.,  with  Mt.  Mansfield  as  their  chief. 

'  The  Whiteface  Mt.  House  is  distant  from  Keene  Flats  13  M.;  from 
Martin's,  22  M. ;  from  the  Indian  Pass,  18  M. ;  and  from  N.  Elba,  12  M. 
A  path  from  the  1.  of  the  Notch  road,  2^  M.  from  the  hotel,  leads  to  the 
Flume.  Passing  Little  Falls,  the  roaring  of  •  Big  Falls  is  sowi  heard, 
where  there  is  a  plunge  of  over  100  ft.  6  M.  from  the  hotel  the  *  Wil- 
mington Pass  is  entered,  and  followed  for  nearly  2  M.,  with  the  sublime 
cliffs  of  Whiteface  towering  on  the  r.,  approached  by  an  equally  great 
precipice  on  the  1.  There  is  but  little  more  than  room  for  the  road  and 
the  river  for  over  1,000  ft.,  where  the  cliffs  run  up  to  a  great  height  on 
either  hand.  A  road  to  the  r.,  beyond  the  portals  of  the  gorge,  leads  to 
Lake  Placid  (in  2  M. ) ;  and  the  stage-road  intersects  the  Elizabethtown 
road  at  If.  Elba,  6  M.  from  the  Pass,  and  passes  down  to  the  Saranac 
Lake. 

20.   Westport  to  the  Saranac  Lakes. 

Distance,  43  M.  ;  fare,  $  4  ;  semi- weekly  stages.    From  Westport  (on 

Lake  Champlain,  51  M.  N.   of  Whitehall)  semi-daily  stages  run   to 

Elizabethtown  (8  M.;  fare  $1).    The  latter  village  (*  Mansion  House , 

200  guests,  $  10  - 12  a  week  ;  Valley  House  ;  and  several  boarding-houses) 

is  the  capital  of  Essex  County,  and  is  finely  situated  on  the  Boquet  River. 

Its  grand  mt.  prospects  have  made  it  a  favorite  summer  resort.  Lofty  peaks 

and  precipitous  hills  surround  the  village  on  all  sides,  and  afford  a  fine 

view  from  the  plateau  on  which  stand  the  county  buildings,  the  3  churches, 

and  the  Mansion  House.     Cobble  Hill,  1  M.  S.  W.,  has  a  singular  rocky 

summit  resembling  a  dome  and  fronted  on  the'  E.  by  a  great  prycipice. 

It  is  frequently  ascende<l  for  the  sake  of  its  view,  which  includes  Raven 

Hill,  Lake  C!ham plain,  and  the  Green  Mts.,  on  the  E. ;  the  Boquet  Mts. 

on  the  N. ;  the  lofty  Adimudacks  on  the  W.,  dominated  by  the  Giant  of 

the  Valley;  and  the  fruitful  fields  of  Pleasant  Valley  on  the  S.     The  iso- 

;  lated  peak  of  Raven  Hill  lies  E.  of  Elizabethtown,  and  a  vague  path  leads 

fto  its  summit,  2,100  ft.  above  the  sea.    Lake  Champlain  and  the  Green 

[Mts.  are  plainly  seen  on  the  E.  ;  the  Bo:iuet  Mts.  stretch  along  the  N.  ; 

and  in  the  W.,  beyond  the  glen-embosomed  village,  the  stately  Adiron- 

jdacks  are  seen  for  30  M.     The  Giant  of  the  Valley  is  sometimes  ascended 

If  rom  this  place,  the  route  lying  up  the  valley  of  Roaring  Brook  (to  the  S.). 


?t  If 


IhW 


142     EouUtO,        THE  EEENE  VALLEY. 

The  iBXCursion  takes  2  days,  and  experienced  guides  should  be  procured. 
Hurricane  Peak  is  a  sharp  white  summit  resembling  Chocorua,  which 
overlooks  the  tall  mts.  5  M.  to  the  W.  The  ascent  and  return  require  a 
long  day,  and  form  one  of  the  most  interesting  excursions  in  Northern 
N.  Y.  Parties  ride  to  the  base  in  carriages,  and  from  that  point  are  guided 
up  a  forest-trail  in  4 -5  hrs.  From  the  lofty  bare  summit  all  the  princi- 
pal Adirondacks  are  seen  close  at  hand  in  the  W.  and  S.,  while  across 
Pleasant  Valley  and  beyond  Raven  Hill  are  the  broad  waters  of  Ohamplain 
and  the  Green  Mts.  of  Vermont.  Fishing-parties  frequently  visit  Black 
and  Long  Ponds,  6-8  M.  S.  £.  of  the  village;  also,  I^'ew  Pond,  near  the 
mts.,  and  famed  for  its  trout.  The  favorite  drive  is  down  Pleasant  Val- 
ley, by  tiie  side  of  the  romantic  Boquet  River,  to  the  cascades  on  that 
stream,  —  or  to  Split-Rock  Falls,  a  bright  and  picturesque  scene  8^  M.  to 
the  S.  W. 

Elizabethtown  is  at  the  intersection  of  the  State  road  through  the  mts.  with  the 
Great  Northern  Highway  fiom  Schrpou  Lake  to  Keeseville,  and  is  a  centre  of 
stage-routes.  Stages  leave  for  Westport  semi-daily ;  for  Keene  and  Martin's  (35 
M.  N.  W. ;  fare,  ij^S),  at  6  a.  m..  Men.  and  Thurs.,  reaching  Martin's  at  7  P.  m.  ; 
for  KeeHeville  (21  M.  N.  E. ;  fare,  $1.75),  at  2  p.  ii.,  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.  ;  for 
Boot's  Inn  at  Schroon  River  (23  M.  S.  W.  ;  fare,  9 1-75)  and  Schroon  Lake  (32  M. 
S.  W.  ;  fare,  i|2.50),  at  11  a.  m.,  Mon.,  Wed.,  and  Fri., — arriving  at  Schroon  Lake 
by  7  P.  M. 

After  leaving  Elizabethtown  the  stage  soon  enters  the  passes  of  the  mts., 
and  at  10  M.  distance  crosses  the  upper  end  of  the  lovely  *  Keene  Valley. 
This  is  the  most  beautiful  place  in  all  the  mt.  district,  and  is  already  a 
favorite  (but  not  fashionable)  summer  resort.  Tlie  fair  and  fruitful  inter- 
vales of  the  S.  Branch  of  the  Ausable  run  N.  and  S.  for  8  M.,  while  lofty 
and  continuous  mt.  chains  inwall  them  on  the  E.  and  W.,  and  the  great 
mass  of  Camel's  Hump  Mt.  closes  in  on  the  S.  The  cultivated  meadows, 
smooth  and  fertile  and  dotted  with  clumps  of  trees  and  shrubbery,  contrast 
strongly  with  the  frowning  peaks  on  every  side ;  while  the  bright  clean- 
ness of  the  scattered  cottages,  the  graceful  foot-bridges  across  the  river, 
and  the  absence  of  fences,  add  new  beauties  to  the  scene.  At  Keene 
P.  0.,  at  the  N.  end  of  the  valley,  is  BelVs  Hotel;  Dibble's  (Tahavms 
House  ;  60  guests)  and  Wcishhond's  are  near  the  centre ;  and  the  board- 
ing-houses of  Alma  L.  Beede  and  Smith  Beede  are  in  the  portals  of  the 
passes  at  the  S.  end.  The  price  at  these  houses  is  $  7  - 10  a  week.  Or- 
lando Beede,  Malvin  Trumbull,  Max  and  William  Trideau,  are  the  beat 
of  the  guides  in  this  district.  The  Cliffm'd  Falls  are  3  M.  N.  3V.  of 
Keene  (near  the  N.  Elba  road),  and  fall  about  60  ft.,  pouring  down  through 
a  remarkable  gorge  in  the  rock.  HuIVs  Falls  are  on  the  Ausable  River, 
2  M.  S.  of  Keene,  and  are  visible  from  the  highway.  There  is  about  40 
ft.  of  direct  fall,  and  the  rock-grouping  in  the  vicinity  is  very  picturesque. 
From  Keene  P.  0.,  at  the  N.  end,  to  Keene  Flats,  in  the  centre  of  the 
valley,  the  distance  is  4-^  M.;  and  from  Keene  Flats  to  Beede's,  at  the 


THE  AUSABLE  POin)S.        JUnUetO,      U3 


S.  end,  it  is  nearly  3  M.  *  BudeHs  Falls  are  ^  M.  from  Smith  Beeda's, 
where  Roaring  Brook  plunges  over  a  precipice  over  500  ft.  high,  during 
the  latter  part  of  its  descent  gliding  at  an  angle  of  about  70°  through  a 
deep  channel  which  it  has  cat  in  the  cliff.  The  best  view  is  gained  from 
a  shelf  of  rock  at  the  foot  of  the  perpendicular  fall.  Chapel  Pond  is 
reached  by  an  obscure  path  in  1^  M.  from  Smith  Beede's,  and  is  about  | 
M.  long.  It  is  romantically  situated  amid  an  environment  of  rugged 
cliffs,  and  is  noted  for  the  great  depth  of  its  waters,  which  abound  in 
white-fish.  A  small  boat  is  kept  upon  this  pond.  -  1,500  ft.  to  the  K,  and 
400  ft.  higher  than  Ohapel  Pond,  is  another  sequestered  and  solitary  mt. 
tarn,  and  about  ^  M.  farther,  and  200  ft.  higher,  is  yet  another  lonely 
pond  (1,500  X  600  ft.).  An  old  and  nearly  obliterated  trail  (experienced 
guides  should  be  taken)  leads  from  Chapel  Pond  down  into  the  Boquet 
River  Valley,  and  thence  to  Root's  Inn,  17  M.  from  the  pond.  The  im- 
mense heights  of  Camel's  Hump,  Giant  of  the  Valley;  and  Bald  Peak 
nearly  surround  Chapel  Pond;  and  Round  Pond (160  acres),  the  source  of 
the  Boquet  River,  is  about  2  M.  S.  In  the  same  region,  and  4  M.  S.  of 
Beede's,  is  the  glen  knowi  as  the  ♦  Hunter's  Pass. 

The  *  Ausable  Ponds  are  reached  from  Beede's  by  a  ru^ed  road  lead- 
ing up  the  defile  in  which  flows  the  Ausable  River.  Near  Alma  L.  Beede's 
are  the  long  steep  rapids  called  Russell  Falls,  where  the  river  descends 
150  ft.  in  a  course  of  about  1,500  ft.,  — its  channel  lying  through  a  deep 
gorge  in  the  granite  rock.  2  M.  above  this  point  are  the  Beaver  Meadow 
Falls,  situated  about  ^  M .  from  the  road.  4  M.  from  Beede's  the  road 
leaves  the  forest  and  ascends  a  bluff  which  overlooks  the  Lower  Ausable 
Pond,  a  narrow  and  gloomy  sheet  1 J  M.  long,  with  the  mts.  rising  sheer 
from  its  shores.  Gothic  Mt.  and  Saddleback  are  on  the  W.,  and  lofty 
nameless  peaks  ascend  on  the  E.  *  Rainbow  Falls  are  ^  M.  from  the 
foot  of  the  pond,  and  are  visited  by  following  the  beach  to  the  r.  and 
crossing  the  driftwood  at  the  outlet  (or  by  rowing  across  the  outlet),  and 
passing  along  a  path  which  turns  sharply  to  the  1.  around  a  hunters' 
shanty  near  by.  An  arduous  ascent  through  the  thickets  and  up  the  bed 
of  the  stream  soon  leads  to  the  foot  of  the  cliffs  over  which  the  Rainbow 
Brook  makes  a  direct  leap  of  125  ft.  Boats  are  usually  in  readiness  at  the 
foot  of  the  Lower  Pond  to  transport  travellers  to  the  upper  end,  whence 
a  carry  1  M.long  leads  to  the  Upper  Ausable  Pond.  This  is  larger  than 
its  sister  sheet,  being  about  2  M.  long,  and  a'uiaining  a  considerable  width 
near  the  centre,  while  the  landscape  is  broader  and  less  desolate  at  this 
point.  Parties  frequently  encamp  on  these  shores,  and  it  is  said  that  a 
hotel  is  to  be  built  here,  in  conjunction  with  an  improvement  of  the  road 
to  Keene.  Trout  and  deer  are  sought  in  the  vicinity.  It  is  about  6  M. 
m  the  Upper  Pond  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Marcy  ;  and  6  M.  to  the  S. 
(3  M.  by  boat  up  the  inlet)  is  Boreas  Pond,  one  of  the  head-waters  of 


144     Route  to. 


MOUNT  MARCY. 


the  Hudson.  This  pond  is  nearly  cnt  in  two  1)y  a  long  cape  niuning  out 
from  Moose  Mt.  on  the  N.,  while  Saddle  Rock  and  the  towering  Boreas 
Spires  rise  on  the  E.  It  covers  nearly  1  square  M./  and  abounds  in  small 
trout.  About  10  M.  farther  S.  W.  is  the  village  of  Tahavms  (Lower  Iron 
Works),  on  the  Crown  Point  and  Long  Lake  road.  1  M.  above  the  Upper 
Pond  the  inlet  is  crossed  by  a  bridle-path  which  leads  S.  E.  to  the  inn 
on  Mud  Pond  (5-6  M.)^  and  to  Root's  Inn  at  Schroon  River. 

Mount  Maroy, 

the  sovereign  peak  of  the  Adiroudacks,  is  5,333  ft.  above  the  sea  (survey 
of  1872).  It  was  called  by  the  Saranac  Indians,  Tahawus,  "The Cloud- 
Piercer,"  or  "Sky-Splitter,"  in  allusion  to  the  sharpness  of  its  lofty  peak, 
which  often  overtops  the  clouds.  The  *  view  from  the  summit  (which 
.  is  strewn  with  boulders)  is  wide  and  interesting,  and  includes  the  val- 
ley of  Lake  Champlain  and  the  Green  Mts.  on  the  E. ;  Whiteface,  the 
Keene  Mts.,  and  the  Ausable  Valley  on  the  N.  and  N.  E. ;  and  distant 
views  of  the  Saranac  Lakes  to  the  N.  W.  Surrounding  this  central  sum- 
mit are  seen  the  chief  peaks  of  the  Adirondacks. 

The  usual  mode  of  ascent  is  from  Keene  Flats,  whence  guides,  provisions,  and 
blankets  are  taken.  Leaving  the  Flats  at  noon,  the  first  night  is  spent  in  slianties 
beyond  the  Upper  Ausable  Pond  (10  - 12  M.).  On  the  next  day  the  mt.  is  ascended 
by  a  trail  running  5  M.  N.  W.,  and  the  shanties  at  the  pond  are  regained  by  night- 
fall, Keene  being  reached  by  tite  noon  of  the  next  day.  A  nearer  route  (but  more 
arduous  and  less  picturesque)  leads  up  John's  Brook  A-om  Keene  Flats,  passing 
^  Big  Falls  and  Bushnell's  Falls,  and  traversing  the  Panther  Goi:ge  (in  which  the 
view  is  obscured  by  trees).  This  trail  passes  between  Slide  and  Gothic  Mts.,  and 
ascends  the  E.  slope  of  Mt.  Marcy.  From  Root's  Inn,  at  Schroon  River,  the  dis- 
tance to  the  summit  is  20  -  22  M.  A  wagon-road  leads  to  the  forest-tavern  at 
Mud  Pond  (10  M.),  whence  a  bridle-path  has  been  made  to  the  base  of  the  mt. 
(9  M.).  Another  route  which  is  often  used  is  from  Upper  Adirondack,  by  a  trail 
12  M.  long  (see  page  138).  From  Scott's  (13  M.  E.  of  Martin's,  on  the  Westport 
road^  a  trail  leads  to  the  summit  by  way  of  the  Indian  Pass,  in  15  M.  In  addition 
to  his  camp  equipage  and  supplies,  the  tourist  should  be  careful  to  take  thick 
clothing,  as  the  mt.  air  is  often  very  cold.  A  powerful  field-glass  will  also  be 
found  usefUL  

BelPs  ffotel^&t  Keene  ($  7-9  a  week)  is  reached  at  10  o'clock  (travellers 
"  returning  from  Martin's  dine  here).  Beyond  this  point  the  Saranac  stage 
enters  the  wild  and  romantic  defile  between  Pitch  OflF  and  Long  Pond 
Mts.  About  4  M.  from  Keene  the  Edmund  Ponds  are  reached,  and 
so  completely  is  the  Pass  filled  by  their  waters  that  the  State  road  is 
carried  through  on  long  galleries  built  out  from  the  side  of  Pitch  OflF  Mt. 
The  ponds  are  narrow  and  deep,  and  about  4  M.  long,  abounding  also  in 
small  and  delicious  trout.  They  were  once  an  unbroken  lake,  but  an 
avalanche  from  the  side  of  Pitch  Off  Mt.  filled  up  the  centre  and  formed 
two  ponds.  The  bare  and  precipitous  peaks  of  Pitch  Off,  and  the  opposed 
ridges  of  Long  Pond  Mt.  look  down  on  the  narrow  and  picturesque  gorge, 
until  the  road  emerges  on  a  lofty  grassy  plateau  nearly  2  M.  square, 
called  the  South  Meadows  (or  "Plains  of  Abraham"). ;  An  imposing 


LAKE  FLACID. 


JttnOe  to.      145 


pe  Tunning  out 
owering  Boreas 
K)und8  in  small 
rus  (Lower  Iron 
bove  the  Upper 
J.  E.  to  the  inn 
irer. 

the  sea  (survey 
as,  "TheCloud- 
»f  its  lofty  peak, 
>  summit  (which 
nclttdes  the  val- 
;  Whiteface,  the 
E. ;  and  distant 
this  central  sum- 

les,  provisions,  and 

is  spent  in  shanties 

the  mt.  is  ascended 

e  regained  by  night- 

ircr  route  (but  more 

Leene  Flats,  passing 

lorge  (in  which  the 

ad  Gothic  Mts.,  and 

troon  River,  the  dis- 

the  forest-tavern  at 

;he  base  of  the  nit. 

lirondack,  by  a  trail 

I's,  on  the  Westport 

nl5M.  In  addition 

ireful  to  take  thick 

d-glass  will  also  be 

o'clock  (travellers 
the  Saranac  stage 
.  and  Long  Pond 

are  reached,  and 

I  the  State  road  is 

J  of  Pitch  Ofif  Mt. 

jabounding  also  in 

}oken  lake,  but  an 

pentre  and  formed 

J,  and  the  opposed 
[picturesque  gorge, 
larly  2  M.  square, 
1").    An  imposing 


panoramic  view  of  the  peaks  of  Marcy,  Mclntyre,  SHde,  and  Wallface  is 
now  gained  in  the  S. ;  while  on  the  N.  the  blanched  summit  of  Whiteface 
soon  starts  into  sight.  The  stage  now  reaches  Scott's  (13  M.  from  Mar- 
tin's; 30  M.  from  Westport),  a  roadside  farm-house  (summer  boarders), 
which  commands  a  noble  view,  and  is  a  good  centre  for  excursions.  It  is 
6  M.  to  Lake  Placid;  9  M.  to  the  Wilmington  Pass;  10  M.  (S.  W.)  to  the 
Adirondack  Pass  (see  page  137) ;  and  15  M.  (S. )  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Marcy. 
From  the  hill-top  over  the  W.  Ausable,  about  2  M.  beyond  Scott's,  may 
be  seen  the  house  and  farm  of  John  Brown,  and  the  bowlder  by  which  he 
is  buried.  The  farm  is  now  owned  by  an  association  formed  by  Kate 
Field. 

John  Brown,  "of  Ossawattomie,"  was  bom  at  Torrineton,  Conn.,  in  the  year 
1800.  He  was  a  Puritan  of  the  straitest  sect,  "  of  unflinching  courage  and  intense 
earnestness."  In  1855  he  moved  to  Kansas,  and  took  a  prominent  imrt  in  the 
struggles  between  the  Free  Soil  and  the  Proslavery  parties.  In  Aug.,  1856,  his 
command  defeated  at  Ossawattomie  a  greatly  superior  lorce  of  Missourians.  In 
May,  1859,  with  a  secret  convention  of  Abolitionists  in  Canada,  he  formed  the 
daring  sclieme  of  invading  the  State  of  Virginia  and  liberating  its  slaves.  On  the 
night  of  Oct.  16,  1859,  he  surprised  and  captured  the  national  arsenal  and  annory 
at  Harper's  Ferry,  Va.,  with  about  20  men.  But  the  slaves  did  not  revolt ;  the 
Va.  militia  beleaguered  him  closely,  and  the  U.  S.  Marines  captured  the  few  sur- 
vivors of  the  fearless  liberators.  Brown's  2  sons  were  killed  by  his  side,  and  he 
himself  was  wounded  in  several  places.  He  was  soon  afterwards  tried,  convicted, 
and  executed,  "  meeting  death  with  serene  composure." 

A  short  distance  beyond  Brown's,  N.  Elba  {LyovCs  Inn)  is  reached. 
From  this  point  a  fine  mt.  view  is  obtained,  including  (in  the  N. )  Whiteface 
and  Sugar  Loaf.    *  Lake  Placid  is  2  M.  N.  of  the  village,  and  is  one  of 
the  loveliest  resorts  in  the  Adirondacks.    Whiteface  towers  up  over  the 
N.  K  shores,  and  is  sometimes  ascended  by  this  route.    On  the  W.  are 
the  dark  ridges  of  Sugar  Loaf,  and  lofty  peaks  overshadow  the  E.  shores. 
[  Three  islands  in  the  midst  of  the  waters  divide  it  into  the  East  and  West 
Lakes,  and  many  fisn  dwell  in  these  pure  and  crystal  depths.    The  lake 
[is  5  M.  long  and  1^-2  M.  wide,  and  near  its  S.  end  are  the  new 
\Stevens  House  (75  guests;  $8-10  a  week)  and  Allen's  Hotel.     Nash 
4  Lake  is  very  near  the  houses,  and  contains  about  1  square  M. ;  and  Conery 
:  Pond  is  I  M.  N.    Paradox  Pond  is  also  near  the  S.  shore,  and  has  an  in- 
explicable tidal  flow  to  and  from  the  lake. 
After  leaving  N.  Elba  the  road  traverses  a  wide  and  barren  plateau  for 
M.,  when  it  descends  into  the  Saranac  Valley,  and,  passing  Blood's 
ivern,  speedily  reaches  Martin's  Saranac  Lake  House  (page  139),  situated 
the  head  of  one  of  the  fairest  bays  of  the  forest-bound  lake.     Dozens 
the  graceful  Saranac  and  Long  Lake  canoes  are  seen  floating  before  the 
>tel ;  and  the  stalwart  guides  and  himters  of  Long  Lake,  St.  Regis,  and 
Saranacs  await  the  orders  of  the  sportsman,  with  oars,  rifle,  and  rods 
readiness.    Martin's  and  Paul  Smith's  hotels  are  often  made  the  so- 
|uming-place  of  ladies  while  their  escorts  pass  on  into  the  more  remote 
est. 

7  J 


I:  I  M    '  ' 

5S  I 


i|i 


:!l 


U6     RouU9l        THE  SABANAO  LAKES. 


8L  TheSaranao'Lakes.  Martm'i  to  Coz*8  (and  Paul  Smith*!). 

BoatH  and  guides  mny  be  engaged  at  Martin's.  The  hotel  guides  charge  $  2.50 
a  day  and  their  board  (the  indoi)endeut  guides  usually  get  $8),  and  if  tlie  traveller 
leaves  his  guide  at  a  distance  front  the  place  where  he  was  eui^a^od,  he  must  pay 
him  wages  and  expuuaes  fur  thd  time  ncceaHMry  for  his  (tlie  guide's)  return  to  that 
place.  The  distance  from  Murtiu's  to  Cox's  is  nearly  20  M.,  and  the  Journey  ii 
easily  made  in  a  day. 

Saranao  IjAKB  is  6  M.  long  by  1  -  3  M.  -wide,  and  its  surface  is  broken 
by  62  islands,  the  largest  of  which  is  Eagle  Island,  |  M.  long.  The  rocky 
headlands  and  the  numerous  tree-studded  islets  make  a  continuously 
changing  panorama  as  the  light  swift  boat  passes  up  the  lake,  while  Sara- 
nac  Mt.,  on  the  W.,  and  Ampersand  Mt.,  on  the  S.,  loom  boldly  on  the 
view.  Occasional  glimpses  are  obtained  of  Mt.  Marcy  and  its  brother  peaks 
in  the  distant  S.  B.  At  the  base  of  a  cliff  in  Loon  Bay,  near  the  head  of 
the  lake,  is  seen  the  rude  guide-board  at  Jacob's  Well,  a  clear,  cold  spring 
of  sweet  water.  Beyond  this  point  a  narrow  aud  tortuous  stream  is  en- 
tered and  ascended  for  3  M.,  passing  a  lively  rapid  (6-8  ft.  fall),  which 
is  usually  shot  by  boats  descending.  Bound  Lake  is  soon  seen  in  the 
advance,  with  Ampersand  Mt.  on  the  S.  EL 

"  This  little  lake  is  a  gem.  It  is  round,  as  its  name  imports,  some  4  M.  in  diame- 
ter, and  surrounded  by  an  amphitheatre  of  hills,  beneath  whoso  shadows  it  reposes 
in  placid  and  quiet  beauty.  Ou  the  N.  E.  Whiteface  rears  its  toll  head  far  above  the 
intervening  ranges,  while  away  off  in  the  E.  Mt.  Marcy  and  Mt.  Sewnrd  stand  out 
dim  and  shadowy  against  the  sicy.  Nearer  are  the  Keene  ranges,  ragged  and  lofty, 
tiieir  bare  and  rocky  summits  glistening  in  the  sunliglit,  while  nearer  still  the 
hills  arise,  sometimes  with  steep  and  ragged  acclivity,  and  sometimes  gently 
•loping  from  the  shore.  ....  The  rugged  and  sublime,  with  the  placid  and 
beautiful,  are  magnificently  mingled  in  tlie  surroundings  of  this  little  sheet  of 
water."    ^Hammond.) 

Ampe  jand  Mt*  may  be  ascended  by  a  path  (cut  out  by  Dr.  Ely  in  1873) 
whicl)  le.-ids  uu  the  slope  ti.  E.  fTom  Round  Lake  (a  guide  should  be  obtained  from 
Bartlett's,  2  M.  distant).  The  as<^ent  to  tho  hut  on  the  sumi<iit  may  be  made  in 
8-4  hrs.  The  axis  of  the  mt.  extends  for  8  M.  E.  and  W. ,  and  the  slojie  is  steep. 
A  beautiful  *  view  is  afforded  ttom  the  E.  peak,  embracing  Ampersand  Pond 
(whose  shape  is  thought  to  resemble  the  character  &,  whence  comes  its  name), 
the  three  Saranac  Lakes,  Long  and  Tupper  Lakes,  the  St.  Regis  and  Clear  Ponds, 
and  the  valley  of  the  Saranac  as  far  as  Franklin  Falls.  On  the  E.  and  8.  E.  are 
the  bold  Adirondack  peaks,  Santanona,  Mclntyre,  Emmons,  Seward,  and  'nany 
otliers.  Ampersarul  Pmul  is  a  sequestered  and  beautif^il  loch  8.  of  the  mt.  Hero, 
according  to  tradition,  the  wizards  of  the  Saranac  Indians  performed  their  weird 
incantations ;  and  here,  in  later  years,  adventurous  sportsmen  have  found  abun- 
dant fares  of  Hsh.  It  is  reached  by  a  difficult  path  of  6  M.  ft-oni  ROund  Lake,  or 
by  a  long  and  aixluous  journey  ftx)m  Cold  Brook  (near  Lower  Saranac  Lake). 

Oossing  Round  Lake  (dotted  with  islets,  and  very  turbulent  in  windy 
weather),  a  narrow  stream  is  entered,  and  BartletVs  Sportsman's  Home  is 
soon  reached  (12  M.  from  Martin's).  This  hotel  accommodates  40-&' 
guests,  at  $  12  a  week,  and  is  a  favorite  place  for  dining.  The  river  falls 
60  ft.  Iiere,  and  the  boats  and  baggage  are  hauled  on  carts  around  the 
rapids  (^  M. ;  60c.  a  load),  and  are  launched  on  a  deep  and  sequestered 
bay  of  the  Upper  Saranac. 


THE  SARANAG  LAKES.        Rmitett.      U7 


luI  Smithes). 

BS  charge  •2.60 
I  If  the  traveller 
311,  he  niuut  my 
s)  return  to  that ' 
,  the  jouruey  li 

rface  is  broken 
,ig.    The  rocky 
a  continuously 
ike,  while  Sara- 
i  boldly  on  the 
ts  brother  peaks 
ear  the  head  of 
lear,  cold  spring 
us  stream  is  en- 
i  ft.  fall),  which 
oon  seen  in  the 
• 

ome4M.indlame- 

Bhadows  it  reposes 

head  far  above  the 

Seward  stand  out 

[9.  ragged  and  lofty, 

le  nearer  still  the 

sometimes  gently 

th  the  placid  and 

his  llttie  sheet  of 

jv  Dr.  Ely  in  1873) 
d  be  obtained  from 

It  may  be  made  In 
the  Hlope  Is  steep. 
Ampersand  Pond 
e  comes  Its  name), 
is  and  Clear  Ponds, 
,  E.  and  8.  E.  are 
Seward,  and  'aany 
ofthemt.  Here, 
formed  their  weird 
I  have  found  abuu- 
m  Bound  Lake,  or 
[aranac  Lake). 

[rbulent  in  windy 
rtmarCa  Home  is 
amodates  40 -5C 
J  The  river  falls 
[carts  around  the 
and  sequestered 


The  *Xrpper  Saranao  Lake  is  now  entered,  and  a  cluster  of  rocky 

islets  is  threaded.    This  queenly  lake  is  8  M.  long  by  1-3  M.  wide,  and 

is  oftm  preferred  to  any  of  the  other  Adirondack  waters.    It  has  many 

pretty  islands,  while  the  distant  mt.  views  are  of  great  sublimity.    After 

rounding  the  first  point  on  the  E.,  Gull  Bay  is  left  on  the  r.,  and  several 

wooded  islands  are  seen  on  the  W.    About  half-way  up  the  lake  the 

Narrows  are  passed,  where  two  bold  points  from  the  E.  and  W.  shores 

approach  each  other.    Just  above,  on  the  W.,  is  Fish  Creek  Bay,  where  a 

creek  aflbrds  entrance  to  Big  Square  Pond  and  many  other  forest-sheets, 

extending  to  the  Wolf  Pond  route.    About  2  M.  farther  N.  the  lake  is 

again  narrowed,  by  Clear  Point  from  the  W.,  and  Merkliam  Point  from 

the  E.    A  broad  and  island-studded  expanse  is  now  crossed,  and  the  boat 

is  beached  before  Cox'i  ( Upper  Saranac  Lake  House ;  100  guests ;  $2-2.50 

a  day).    This  hotel  is  situated  at  the  head  of  the  lake,  and  commands  a 

noble  *  view  to  the  S.,  embracing  all  the  upper  part  of  the  lake,  with  line 

after  line  of  stately  mts.  beyond,  among  which  Marcy,  Seward,  and  White- 

[face  are  conspicuous.    The  best  of  fishing  is  found  in  the  many  ponds  in 

[the  immediate  vicinity.    Theic  is  a  telegraph-station  here;  and  a  good 

fstage-road  runs  out  to  Bloomingdale,  13  M.  N.  E.,  with  side-roads  to 

[Martin's  (16  M. )  and  Paul  Smith's  (17  M. ). 

The  usual  route  by  water  from  Cox's  to  Smith's  is  preceded  by  a  carry 
Jof  4  M.,  from  tiie  Upper  Saranac  to  Big  Clear  Pond.  The  boats  are 
'^^hauled  across  for  $1.50  a  load,  md  passengers  are  carried  for  50c.  each. 
/  The  beaiitiful  expanse  of  Big  Clear  Pond  is  now  crossed  for  2  M.,  with 
8t.  Regis  Mt.  on  the  N.  W.,  and  grand  views  of  the  more  distant  Adiron- 
dacks  in  the  E.  (the  sharp  pyramid  of  Whiteface  is  very  conspicuous). 
The  St.  Germain  (Sanjermau)  carry  is  now  crossed  (1^  M.;  $1.50  a  load). 
The  3  pretty  connected  lakes  of  St.  Regis,  Spitfire,  and  Lower  St.  Regis 
are  traversed  in  about  4  M.,  and  Smith's  is  reached.  The  Route  of  the 
Scarries  passes  through  8  ponds  between  the  Upper  Saranac  tind  St. 
Begis  Lake,  with  9  carries  aggregating  2J  M.  of  portage. 

Paul  Smith's,  see  page  139. 

22.  The  Saranac  Lakes  to  the  Tapper  Lakes. 

Distance  to  Big  Tnpper  Lake  from  Martin's,  29  M. ;  from  Paul  Smith's, 

M.;  from  Cox's,  21  M.    These  routes  are  described  in  Route  21,  as  far 

the  foot  of  the  Upper  Saranac  Lake.    Here  the  Sweeny  Carry  is  en- 

ered,  on  the  W.  shore  (2  M.  from  Corey's),  and  the  boats  and  baggage 

re  hauled  across  for  $1.50  a  load  (distance,  3  M.).    From  the  hill  over 

le  beginning  of  the  carry  is  obtained  one  of  the  most  beautiful  views  in 

le  lake-country,  embracing  the  Upper  Saranac,  with  its  many  islands 

id  capes,  and  a  great  number  of  mts.,  of  which  Whiteface  is  chief. 

le  boats  are  soon  launched  upon  the  Baquette  Biyer,  at  a  point  9  M. 


V' 


I  !i 


148     Houte  it 


TUPPER  LAKE. 


below  Stony  Creek;  and  tliis  pretty  stream  (the  Nihanawate,  '^  Rapid 

River,"  of  the  Indians)  is  descended  for  11  M.    4  M.  from  the  carry  a 

slight  rapid  is  passed;  and  1  M.  beyond  the  boat  goes  through  a  narrow 

cutting  in  the  isthmus  of  the  Great  Oxbow,  thus  saving  over  1  M.  of  the 

river-possoge.    After  passing  a  few  forest-homes,  the  broad  sheet  of 

*  Tapper  Lake  is  seen  in  advance.    This  lake  is  7  M.  long  by  1-3  M. 

wide,  and  is  1,504  ft.  above  the  sea.     It  has  about  40  islands,  diversified 

with  lofty  trees  and  steep  ledges,  and  is  overlooked  by  the  high  ridges  of 

Mt.  Morris  (on  the  E.)  and  Arab  Mt.  (on  the  W.).    County  Island  is  the 

largest,  and  is  nearly  1^  M.  long;  while  on  Bluff  Island  (to  the  N.  B.)  is 

the  remarkable  precipice  called  the  DemVs  Pulpit,  running  down  sheer 

into  the  water  at  the  S.  end  of  the  island.    Moody's  Hotel  is  near  the 

outlet,  anu  Cronk's  (formerly  Graves's)  is  near  the  head. 

"  This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  sheets  of  water  that  the  sun  ever  shone 
upon,  lying  alone  among  the  mts.,  surrounded  by  old  primeval  forests,  walled  in 

by  palisades  oi  rocks,  and  studded  with  islands The  hills  rise  with  a 

gentle  acclivity  flrom  the  shore  ;  behind  them,  and  afar  off,  rise  rugged  mt. -ranges  ; 
and  farther  still,  the  lotty  pealcs  of  the  Adirondacl<s  loom  up  in  dim  and 
shadowy  outline  on  the  sky.  From  everj'  point,  and  in  every  direction,  are  views 
of  placid  and  quiet  beauty  rarely  equalled,  —  valleys  stretching  away  among 
the  highlands  ;  gaps  in  the  hills  through  which  the  sunlight  pours  long  after  the 
shadows  of  the  lorest  have  elsewhere  thrown  themselves  across  the  lake  ;  islands, 
some  bold  and  rocky,  rising  in  baiTen  desolation  right  up  from  the  water  ;  some 
covered  with  a  dense  and  thrifty  growth  of  evergreen  trees,  with  a  soil  nmt(5hle8S 
in  fertility ;  .  .  .  .  beautiful  bays,  stealing  around  bold  promontories,  and  hiding 
away  among  the  old  woods."    (Hammond^) 

Potsdam  (see  Route  25)  is  sometimes  reached  from  Tupper  Lake  (in 
about  60  M.)  by  descending  the  Raquette  River.  This  route  was  very 
interesting  before  the  back-water  from  the  State  dam  at  Potsdam  had 
killed  the  trees  on  the  banks.  It  is  6  M.  from  the  lake  to  the  Setting 
Pole  Rapids,  whence  (passing  Fish  Hawk  Rapids)  the  picturesque  Fierce- 
field  Falls  are  reached  in  3  M.  Shooting  several  rapids,  at  12  M.  from 
the  lake  Downey's  Landing  is  reached,  3-4  M.  W.  of  which  is  Massa- 
wepie  Lake,  with  the  5  ponds  at  the  head-waters  of  the  Grass  River. 
The  Blue  Mt.  and  Moosehead  Stillwaters  are  now  traversed  (passing  4 
rapids),  with  Blue  Mt.  on  the  E.,  and  Moosehead  Mt.  on  the  W.  At  one 
point  the  Windfall  is  passed,  where,  on  Sept.  20, 1845,  a  tornado  cut  a 
clean  path  through  the  forest,  ^  M.  wide  and  50  M.  in  length.  The  fallen 
timber  was  afterwards  burned.  10  - 12  M.  below  Downey's,  Seavey's  Hotel 
is  reached,  whence  a  poor  road  leads  out  to  Potsdam  in  35  M.,  passing 
Haws'  Hotel  (at  the  mouth  of  the  Jordan  River)  in  7  M.,  and  Petsue's 
Forest  House  (at  Stark's  Falls)  in  14  M.  The  latter  house  is  a  rendezvous 
for  guides  and  boats,  and  the  ascent  by  water  into  the  wilderness  is  often 
begun  here.  From  Petsue's  to  Potsdam,  by  the  Colton  Road,  it  is  22  M., 
passing  near  the  Rainbow  Falls  and  the  Walled  Banks  6f  the  Raquette. 
Stages  ran  (9  M.)  between  Potsdam  and  Colton  (Empire  Exchange),  a 
large  lumbering-village. 


.ir 


STONY  CREEK  PONDS.         RmtUtS.      149 


wate,  ''Rapid 
m  the  carry  a 
ough  a  narrow 
rer  1  M.  of  the 
Toad  sheet  of 
ng  "by  1-3  ^• 
mdfl,  diversified 
high  ridges  of 
by  Island  is  the 
(totheN.  B.)i8 
ling  down  sheer 
lotel  is  near  the 

he  sun  ever  shone 
1  forests,  walled  in 
,  hills  rise  with  a 
ruKKcd  nit. -ranges ; 
,„  up  in  dim  and 
iirection,  are  views 
jhing  away  aniong 
ours  long  after  the 
IS  the  lake :  islands, 
,m  the  water ;  some 
ith  a  soil  niat<;lile8S 
ontories,  and  lading 

Tupper  Lake  (in 
lis  route  was  very 
.  at  Potsdam  had 
ike  to  the  Setting 
)icturesque  Pierce- 
,,atl2M.from 
[f  which  is  Massa- 
the  Grass  River, 
iversed  (passing  4 
mtheW.    Atone 
[o  a  tornado  cut  a 
length.    The  fallen 
jy's,  Seavefs  Hotel 
/in  35  M.,  passing 
I?  M.,  and  Petsue's 
)U8e  is  a  rendezvous 
vHldemess  is  often 
Road,  it  is  22  M., 
:s6f  the  Raq^^ette. 
ipire  Exchange),  » 


The  Wolf  Pond  route  flrom  Tupper  Lake  to  Cox's  (on  the  Upper  Saranac)  it 
about  30  M.  long,  and  has  10  carries  (7  M.).  It  passes  by  Hoel,  Turtle,  Long, 
Floodwood,  Rollins,  and  the  "  If  and  Ratiuette  Ponds,  and  is  very  arduous  and 
tiresome.  A  groat  number  v.  uinor  ponds  dot  the  forest  on  either  side  of  this 
route.  Biff  Wolf  Pond  ia  over  3  M.  long,  and  is  reached  by  a  i)leasant  trip 
from  Tupper  Lake  (10  M.;,  passing  down  the  Raquette  llivcr  2  M.  to  the  Haquette 
Pond  a  handsome  nheet  of  water  nearly  3  M.  long.  lYom  thence  the  sinuous  Wolf 
Brook  is  astended  Jor  5  M.  to  Little  Wolf  Pond,  whence  a  J  M.  cany  leads  to  Big 
Wnlf  Pond 

Cranberry  I.ake  (15  M.  long ;  on  the  Upper  Oswegatchie)  is  sometimes 
visited  by  a  ififllcult  route  about  20  M  long  (8  M  of  carries).  Mud  Lake  (4  M. 
around),  famous  for  deer,  mosquitoes,  and  desolation,  is  16  M.  8.  W.  of  Tupper 
Lake,  by  portage  (3  M.)  from  Cronk's,  and  then  by  Horseshoe  Pond  and  the  Bog 
River  lakelets.  Silver  Lake  and  other  jurnds  alwut  Silver  Lake  Mt.  are  visited  by 
the  same  route.  PUamnt  Lake,  near  Arab  Mt.,  is  6-7  M.  from  Tupper  Lake,  by 
Bridge  Brook  Pond.  Scores  of  sequestered  ponds,  prolific  in  fish  and  haunted 
by  deer,  are  situated  in  this  district. 

The  Bog  River  Falls  are  at  the  head  of  Tupper  Lake  (near  a  large  spring 
of  clear  water  rising  through  white  sand).  Little  Tapper  Lake  is  9  M. 
S.  (2i  M.  carries),  by  a  route  which  crosses  the  pretty  Round  Pond.  This 
lake  is  1,715  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  is  6  M.  long.  It  has  high  and  rocky 
shores  and  numerous  islands,  and  gives  fine  views  of  the  distant  mts.  Pliny 
Robbins  keeps  a  forest  tavern  and  supply- store  on  Sand  Point,  near  the 
foot  of  the  lake.  Little  Tupper  is  but  seldom  visited,  on  account  of  its 
remoteness,  and  affords  very  good  sporting  and  lovely  scenery.  Smith's 
Lake,  see  Route  24. 

23.  The  Saxanao  Lakes  to  Baquette  Lake. 

Prom  Martin's  to  Bartlett's,  12  M.  ;  to  Johnson's,  26  M.  :  to  Kellogg's  ^Long 
Lake),  43.i  M.  ;  to  Gary's  (Ra«iuette.  Lake),  57  M.  From  Paul  Smith's  to  Cox's, 
14  M.  ;  to  Johnson's,  3-i  M.  ;  to  Kellogg's,  51^  M. ;  to  Gary's,  65  M.  The  journey 
to  the  lake  requires  3  days,  if  but  little  baggage  is  taken.  The  Long  Lake  guides 
(Plumblcy,  Hough,  Gary,  Sabbattis,  and  others),  who  may  be  found  at  Martin's, 
are  familiar  with  the  Raquette  waters.  Travellers  who  do  not  wish  to  encamp  will 
find  primitive  accommodations  at  Bartlett's,  Corey's,  Johnson's,  Davis's,  Kellogg's, 
and  Gary's. 

The  ways  from  Martin's  and  Smith's  to  the  foot  of  Upper  Saranac  Lake 
are  described  in  Route  21.  At  (Jorey's  (a  well-located  hunters'  resort)  is 
the  Indian  Carry,  over  which  the  boats  are  hauled  on  carriages  from  the 
Saranac  to  the  Stony  Creek  Ponds.  This  vicinity  was  formerly  brightened 
by  the  cornfields  and  wigwams  of  the  Saranac  Indians,  who  had  their 
principal  village  here.  The  carry  is  1  M.  long;  boats  and  baggage,  75c. 
a  load.  The  boats  are  now  launched  on  the  beautiful  little  Stony  Creek 
Ponds,  of  which  there  are  3,  connected  by  narrow  straits,  and  containing 
about  3  square  M.  At  the  foot  of  the  third  pond,  the  trout-haunted  Am- 
persand Brook  enters  on  the  1.,  near  the  outlet  of  Stony  Creek.  The  latter 
stream  (the  Indian  Wahpolichanigan)  is  followed  through  a  narrow  and 
exceedingly  sinuous  course,  where  the  outstretched  oars  sometimes  touch 
on  both  banks,  and  the  forest  closes  in  on  every  side.  After  traversing 
I  this  forest  alley  for  3  M.,  the  Baguette  Biver  is  entered  at  a  point  13  M. 


I 


!■ 


ii 


100     Route  iS.  LONQ  LAKE. 

ftrom  Long  Lake  and  20  M.  from  Tupper  Lake.  The  boat  is  now  turned 
up  stream,  and  passes  through  a  constantly  changing  panorama  of  flne 
woodland  scenery,  with  t|io  banks  lined  with  water-maples  and  tall  pines. 
Groups  of  bowlders  and  long  sand-bars  render  the  navigation  interesting 
and  adventurous ;  and  coves  and  promontories  diversify  the  shores.  6 
M.  above  Stony  Creek,  Johnson's  house  fs  reached,  at  Raquette  Falls, 
around  which  the  boats  are  hauled  (1^  M.;  $1.50  a  load).  The  house  is 
a  low  quaint  building  of  logs,  well  joined  and  carefully  plastered.  The 
pancakes  served  here  have  been  celebrated  by  Murray  and  all  who  came 
after.  The  falls  are  about  ^  M.  fmm  the  house ;  while  1-2  M  to  the  E. 
are  several  small  ponds  which  furnish  fine  trout.  8  M.  W.  of  Johnson'^ 
(by  a  faint  trail)  is  Folingsby's  Pond,  nearly  3  M.  long,  and  noted  for  its 
fishing.  This  pond  has  been  the  summer  home  of  Agassiz,  Emerson, 
Lowell,  and  Hoar.  6  M.  beyond  Johnson's  Carry,  on  the  Raquette,  tlie 
mouth  of  Cold  River  is  passed  on  the  1.  (boats  can  ascend  its  clear  waters 
for  1^-5  M.).  1  M.  beyont  this  point  the  Raquette  widens,  and  the 
boat  passes  into  the  beautiful  ^  Long  Lake.  On  the  r.  Buck  Mt.  is  seen, 
with  the  Blueberry  Mts.  on  the  1.,  and  the  boat  quickly  reaches  Lower 
Island,  on  which  is  a  small  inn. 

This  inn  Iceeps  open  comnmnication  yrith  the  Aunt  Polly  Inn,  at  Newcomb,  13 
M.  8.  E.  (under  the  same  proprietor)  by  a  roniautic  forest  route  which  leads 
tlirough  Belden,  Ricli,  Lily  Pad,  Long,  and  Round  Ponds,  and  Catlin  Lake.  Tlie 
latter  is  a  sequestcrod  slieet  over  3  M.  long,  >vith  favorite  camping-places  on  its 
shoi-es.    Several  ot)\er  ponds  are  found  in  tl)o  vicinity  of  Catlin  Jjalce. 

'•  Long  Lake  it  r>ne  of  tlie  most  beautiful  sheets  of  water  I  ever  floated  over, 
and  its  fTanie-work  of  mts.  becomes  the  glorious  picture.    I  never  saw  a  more 

beautiful  island  than  Bound   Island It  ai)pear8  to  stand  between  two 

promontories  whose  green  and  rounded  points  are  striving  to  reach  it  as  tliey  push 
boldly  out  into  the  water,  while  with  its  abrupt,  high  banlcs,  from  wiiich  go  up 
the  lofty  pine-trees,  it  loolis  lilce  a  huge  gi-een  cylinder  sunlc  there  endwise  in  the 
waves.  I  wish  I  owned  that  island,  —  it  would  be  pleasant  to  be  possessor  of  so 
much  beauty."    (Hammomo.) 

About  1  M.  from  Lower  Island  (on  the  W.  shore)  is  the  mouth  of  a 
small  stream,  by  ascending  which  and  carrying  ^  M.  the  Anthony  Ponds 
are  reached.  From  Lower  Island  Mt.  Seward  is  seen  in  the  N.  E.,  and  in 
the  S.  are  the  pretty  islands  olT  Buck  Mt.  Point  (a  favorite  camp-ground), 
known  as  Camp,  Scrag,  and  Ferris.  *  Hound  Island  is  soon  seen  in  ad- 
vance (about  midway  of  the  lake),  and  3-4  M.  beyond  is  Long  Lake 
village  (W.  shore).  Kellogg* s  inn  is  located  here,  and  accommodates 
40  -  50  guests  ($  8  - 10  a  week).  This  little  hamlet  is  an  outpost  of  civ- 
ilization, and  has  3  stores  and  a  Methodist  church.  In  the  vicinity  dwell 
the  families  of  Sabbattis,  Cary,  Plumbley,  and  other  noted  guides. 
Weekly  mail-stages  leave  Long  Lake  for  Minerva,  North,  Creek,  and 
Pottersville  (see  pages  134  and  135). 


Ii  >,;s 


route 
KeUogg' 


RAQUir  ^  LAKE. 


Mou 


f' 


u\ 


is  now  turned 
lorania  of  fine 
anil  tall  pines, 
lion  interesting 
the  shores.    6 
Utquette  Falls, 
The  house  is 
>laHterecL    The 
1  all  ■who  came 
-2  MtotheE. 
V.  of  Johnson'* 
ad  noted  for  its 
assiz,  Emerson, 
e  Raquette,  the 
,  its  clear  waters 
widens,  and  the 
Juck  Mt.  is  Jteen, 
y  reaches  Lower 

n,  at  Newcomb,  18 
route  which  leads 
CatlinLake.    The 
iping-places  on  Its 
i  I^ake. 
ever  floated  over, 
never  saw  a  more 
tand  between  two 
ach  it  as  they  push 
from  whicli  go  up 
ere  endwise  in  the 
be  possessor  of  so 

the  mouth  of  a 
Anthony  Ponds 
the  N.  E.,  and  in 
^e  camp-ground), 
soon  seen  in  ad- 
is  Long  Lake 
accommodates 
outpost  of  civ- 
[he  vicinity  dwell 
\v  .noted  guides, 
^rth.  Creek,  and 

Used  but  arduous 

,  Smith's  (opposite 

crossing  the  pomi 


M  difflcalt  carry  Is  traversed  for  2  M.,  wUm  a  «  et-  Jonrn-  t^^J^  •?f**?1* 
(throuBh  Mud  ond  the  Slim  Ponds).  \  Mh.ri  y  and  »  H.  of  Ht«Miy  Pond  la 
followed  by  a  carry  of  nearly  1  M.  to  Llttlo  Tn  pi  Uke,  «.  i«|>us  Uke  Is  some- 
tlinoH  visited  from  Mnd  Pond,  or  by  anocndlnx  U.  r..()k  froi»  ooog  Lake  ;  andtba 
llandHoino  and  Mohognn  Ponds  are  reached  froiu    .ra«..piiH 

Owl*!  Head  Mt.  (2,789  ft.  high)  Is  often  ascended  from  the  village  by  rude 
trails  leading  up  the  E.  slope  (guide  necesHary).  The  crystalline  and  trout- 
abounding  tarn  called  Owl's  Iload  Pond  may  be  visited  fW>m  the  path.  From 
either  of  the  two  peaks  of  the  mt.  is  affonled  a  line  lake-view,  with  Raquetta 
Uke  In  the  8.  W.  and  the  Adirondack  peaks  In  the  B.  Dlue  Mt  towers  con- 
splcuotisly  In  the  8.  E.  over  Its  lovely  lake.  Blue  Mt  Uke  Is  about  10  M.  from 
Long  Lake  village,  via  South  Pond. 

Soon  after  leaving  Kellogg's  the  boat  passes  under  a  raised  .section  in 
the  floating  bridge  which  here  crosses  the  lake.  A  few  scattered  houses 
are  seen  on  the  R,  while  Owl's  Head  looms  in  the  W.,  and  at  3i  M.  from 
the  village  the  rapids  at  the  end  of  Long  Lake  are  reached.  A  carry  of  ^ 
M.  and  then  1  M.  on  the  Raquette  River  leads  to  the  •  Buttermilk  FalU, 
a  resounding  plunge  of  the  waters  over  a  high  and  rugged  ledge.  Trout 
abound  in  this  place.  1  M.  bn  the  river  and  a  carry  of  IJ  M.  leads  to 
Forked  Lake,  which  is  traversed  for  3  M.  amid  fine  forest  scenery,  with 
tall  pines  on  the  promontories.  Niggerhead  and  the  distant  West  Mts. 
are  seen  in  advance,  while  the  retrospect  shows  Blue  Mt.  and  the  dark 
ridge  of  the  Windfall  Mts.  (near  the  Chain  I^akes). 

riumhUy  Pond  is  but  1  M.  from  this  lake,  and  Little  Forked  Lake  is  reached 
by  passing  N.  through  a  narrow  and  sinuous  strait  It  is  0  M.  f^om  the  8.  shore 
to  the  head  of  Little  Forked,  whence  a  difficult  route  leads  to  Little  Tupper  Lake 
in  12  M.  Gary,  Sutton,  Bottle,  and  Rock  Ponds  are  traversed,  and  4  M.  of  ob* 
structed  carries  are  found.  High  Pond  (I  M.  W.)  and  Moose  Pond  (Ij^  M.  N.  E.) 
are  visited  from  the  romantic  shores  of  Little  Forked. 

A  carry  of  ^  M^  leads  from  Forked  Lake  to  *Baqn6tt«  Lake,  where  a 
boat-passage  of  about  2  M.  conducts  to  Caty's  Hotel,  a  carpetless  and 
plastesless  house  out  of  isight  of  the  lake.  The  old  Crown  Point  road 
passes  the  hotel,  and  is  rarely  travelled  (distance  to  Long  Lake  village, 
14  M).  Parties  sojourning  at  the  lake  usually  encamp  on  one  of  its  bold 
points  (generally  on  Indian,  West,  or  Constable's  Point,  or  Murray 
island).  Raquette  Lake  is  12  M.  long,  with  a  width  of  1-5  M.  It  is 
1,700  feet  above  the  sea,  and  its  waters  arc  '^f  remarkable  clearness.  The 
old  environing  forests,  the  projecting  points  and  graceful  islands,  and  the 
mt. -ranges  in  view  combine  to  heighten  the  charms  of  this  beautiful  lake. 
Fish  and  game  formerly  abounded  here,  and  may  still  be  found  in  great 
abundance  by  skilful  sportsmen.  It  is  generally  conceded  that  Raquette  is 
the  most  beautiful  of  the  Adirondack  lakes;  but  fewer  visitors  come 
hither,  on  account  of  its  remoteness  and  the  poverty  of  hotel  accommo- 
dations. After  passing  up  the  long  and  river-like  lower  end  of  the  lake, 
a  pretty  islet  is  seen  off  North  Point,  and  West  Point  opens  on  the  r. 
The  broad  Marryatt's  Bay  is  enclosed  between  West  Point  and  Indian 
Point.  The  West  Mts.  are  seen  on  the  r.,  with  North  Bay  opening  back 
to  the  Carthage  road.    Below  Indian  Point,  Eagle  Bay  stretches  away  to 


I' 


' '  'i 
i' 


102      Route  tl        BLUE  MOUNTAIN  LAKH 

the  W.,  bounded  by  Sand  Point  on  the  S.;  while  Wood's  Point  mnlcef 
out  boldly  from  the  £.  Hliore,  and  Blue  Mt.  la  Heeii  beyond.  Beyond 
Murray  Island  is  the  Rpacioufi  Soutli  Bay,  about  which  is  mucli  of  the 
finest  forest  scenery  on  the  lake.  On  Rush  Point  and  the  low  S.  shores 
the  mosquitoes  display  great  numbor'^  and  activity. 

lAHU  Tupper  iMke  Ih  viflltoi'  rmin  Rnquctto  Lake  by  a  difncult  route  IN  M  long. 
It  starts  trom  the  head  of  North  Day  (:)  M.  from  Cary'H),  over  a  weary  i)<>ri  igo  of 
4  M.  Parties  who  have  much  ba^jrKiKu  Hhonhl  got  tcuins  from  'Jary'H,  aH  tint  itortagfl 
lies  along  the  Crown  Point  and  Onrtlmgo  lond.  which  has  dogoiKtrated  into  a  mere 
forest  trail.  The  Imats  arc  hiuncihcd  on  Beacl>*s  Lake*  a  Iwiiiitiful  Hhoet  U  M. 
long,  with  Rock  Island  near  the  centre,  and  the  WeHt  Mts.  on  the  H.  K.  uald 
Bock  and  Bear  Point  are  favorite  (tanip-grounds,  and  Dr.  Brandrcth'H  lodge,  are 
near  the  N.  shore.  Several  tnmt-noiid.s  niny  be  viuited  trom  thin  point,  and  the 
salmon-trout  flshing  in  the  lake  is  very  flno.  The  Fulton  Lakes  may  be  visited 
trom  this  point,  by  way  of  Big  Mooho  Lake  and  tlie  Bistt  '  Ponds,  in  2'j  M.  (nearly 
0  M.  of  carries).  From  Beach's  to  Salmon  Lake  is  a  rugged  carry  of  nearly  2  M.; 
and  after  2  M.  on  the  latter,  an  arrluot;s  carry  of  1^  M.  is  traversed  to  Rock  Pond. 
A  short  carry  from  this  point  leads  to  u  ttmall  stream,  which  is  descended  in  3  M. 
to  Little  Tupoer  Lake. 

Shallov)  Lake  is  reached  by  an  inlet  fi-om  Mtfrryatt's  Bay  in  6-7  M.,  and  the 
Murray  Ponds  are  still  more  remote.  This  Journey  is  very  arduous,  but  trout  are 
found  in  great  plenty.  The  Sar^'.ent  Ponds  (good  fishing^  are  visited  by  a  path 
(1  M.)  leading  from  the  Crown  Point  road.  3  M.  from  Cary's.  The  South  Inlet  of 
Raquotte  Lake  may  be  ascended  for  2  M.  to  the  falls,  whence  a  2  M.  curry  conducts 
to  Shedd  Lake,  and  a  3  M.  carry  leads  to  Mohecau  Pond.  2  M.  S.  E.  of  Shcdd  is 
Fonda  I^ke  ;  and  all  these  waters  are  famed  for  trout.  Boonville,  on  the  Black 
River  R.  R.,  is  about  54  M.  from  Ramictte  Lake,  via  tlie  Fulton  Lakes  and 
Arnold's ;  and  Fouith  Lake  is  about  15  M.  S.  W.  (see  page  155). 

•  Blue  Mountain  Lake,  probably  the  most  beautiful  of  the  smaller 
Wilderness  lakes,  is  easily  reached  in  12  M.  (^  M.  carry)  from  Raquette 
Lake,  by  passing  up  Marion  River,  and  through  Utowana  and  Eagle 
Lakes.  Henry  A  ustin  entertauis  guests  in  a  forest-house  between  Blue 
Mt.  and  Eagle  Lakes  (a  hotel  is  projected  ).     Ned  Buntline  has  n 

lodge  on  Eagle  Lake.  A  road  nu)s  from  Blue  Mt.  Lake  to  the  Adironduck 
R.  R.  (see  page  135).  This  lake  covers  only  alwut  5  square  M.,  but  it  has 
exquisite  combinations  of  scenery,  formed  by  the  numerous  islets  on  its 
bosom  and  the  bold  mts.  which  surround  its  shores.  Blue  Mt.  is  8,595 
ft.  high,  and  is  often  ascended  by  a  trail  on  its  W.  slope.  The  summit 
was  cleared  of  trees  during  the  State  survey  of  1873,  and  presents  a 
lovely  panorama  of  lake  and  mt.  scenery. 

24.  Utioa  to  the  St  Lawrence  Biver.   Trenton  Falls  and 

the  John'  Brown  Tract 

By  the  Utica  and  Black  River  R.  R.  To  Trenton  Falls  in  40  min.  (fare,  75c.) ; 
to  Boonvllle  in  1^  hra.  (fare,  81.20)  ;  to  Clayton  in  5  -6hrs. 

Stations :  Utica  ;  Marcy,  6  M. ;  Stittville,  10  :  Holland  Patent,  12  ;  Trenton,  16  ; 
Trenton  Falls,  17  :  Prospect,  18  ;  Remsen,  21 ;  E.  Steuben,  25  ;  Steuben,  26  ; 
Alder  Creek,  28  ;  Boonvllle,  35  ;  Leyden,  38  ;  Port  Levden,  42  ;  Ly(m8  Falls,  45  ; 
Olendale,  61 ;  Martinsburg,  64  ;  Lowville,  68  ;  Castorland,  66 ;  Deer  River,  70 ; 
Carthage,  74  (a  branch  line  diverges  N.  to  Philadelphia,  87  ;  Theresa  Junction, 
92 :  Morristown,  123 ;  Clayton,  108) ;  Champion,  76 ;  Great  Bend,  81 ;  Pelt's  Mills, 
83 ;  6|4Pk  I^vpr,  85 ;  Watertown.  91. 


TRENTON  FALLS. 


RouU  t4.      153 


on  Falls  and 


)  min.  (fare,  75c.) ; 


170;i  and 
wlipM  ha 

.  Uv  WM 
I'hi'.rch 
omtor. 
'on 

1.   ^.•lOUt  tho 
of  the  hotel. 


,  I. 

I'll; 


The  train  leaves  the  union  station  at  Utica,  and  soon  crosses  the  Mo- 
hawk Rivor,  whose  valluy  it  follows  for  several  miles.  The  town  of 
Marcy,  with  its  villages  of  Marcy  and  Btittsville,  is  traversed,  and  sooa 
after  leaving  Uolland  Patent  a  stop  is  made  at  tlie  station  of 

*  Trenton  Falli. 

*  Moon's  Trenton  FaUn  Hotel  ^#3.50  a  day  ;  921  u  week)  is  1  M.  from  the  station 
and  is  readied  by  currioKUH  (&()(!.).  Tite  large  Iiouho  (tloses  Hopt.  15,  but  a 
smaller  hotel  iieur  by  rumaiiis  oimii  all  tlie  year.  Hutli  theHe  hoiiHUH  are  painted 
duric  brown,  as  ii'  in  res|)e*!t  to  Willis's  proteHt  (written  hero)  agaiiiHt  "tlie  eliaUy 
uiiiv(;rH«H  in  rural  places,"  with  thuir  "  uneH(%"tpaUe  white-paint  OKgravatioiis  or 
BUiiHliinv,"— "the  iiiouiituinH  of  iiiitininuttMl  clfffilHturds,"  — "our  Mont  Blano 
hutelM  with  their  Dovur  C'lllf  porticoH."  The  J'erLim  llouae  is  an  inexpoiiHlve 
liotel  near  the  upiier  falls  (reached  from  Frosi>ect  station,  where  Its  uarriaf^es 

ftW(lit) 

.loliii  Sherman,  grandaon  of  Roger  Sherman,  graduated  at  Ya'e 
pre)>-;hed  to  a  CongruKational  churuh  at  ManHtlulil,  Conn.,  until  1'^' 
enit'ruced  the  new  lilwral  doctrines.  He  then  vinited  Trenton  l^)•f 
barnoveldt,  in  honor  of  the  Grand  Pensionary  of  the  DuU-' 
exe(uited  for  libt^ralisin  in  lUlU)  §nd  became  pastor  of  the  l  ^  ..i. 
in  the  iState  (<f  N.  Y.,  — winning  wide  reHimct  as  un  au^lio..  ae' .  ;  f . 
lie  was  wont  to  dpend  nuK^h  time  about  the  then  almost  h  u.<  *> <' 
Fulls,  and  in  1822  he  built  a  house  for  visitors  ((tailed  tiie  "  ^'  '  " 
was  enlarged  in  1825.  In  1827  he  uubliHhtMl  a  long  descrli 
Falls,  and  in  1828  he  died  and  was  buried  under  a  nionumei.'  .;.!  il  N 
Mr.  Moore  came  to  the  Falls  in  these  early  days  for  sight-seeing,  and,  being  in- 
jured l)y  fulling  on  the  roul<s,  was  so  carefully  nursed  by  Miss  iSlierinan  that  he 
afterward  wedded  her  and  in  time  became  the  landlord  here.  The  hotel  assumed 
its  present  dimensions  in  18d2,  and  is  fronted  by  pleasant  gardens.  25ti.  entrance- 
fee  to  the  Falls  is  charged  to  transient  visitors. 

Trenton  Falls  are  situated  on  W.  Canada  (/Tanato,  meaning  "dark- 
brown  water")  Creek,  an  affluent  of  the  Mohawk.  Tlie  Indians  gave 
them  the  euphonious  name  of  Kuyahora  (**  slanting  water  ").  There  are 
6  cascades  in  the  series,  with  a  total  fall  of  200  ft.,  and  the  stream  flows 
in  the  bottom  of  a  romantic  ravine  which  is  bordered  by  walls  of  Trenton 
limestone,  70  -  200  ft.  high.  The  attraction  of  the  place  is  perhaps  as 
much  in  the  "  deep  down-itude  "  of  this  ravine  and  its  crown  of  primeval 
forest  as  in  its  water-views.  The  water  also  is  of  a  singular  variety  of 
brown  hues,  —  from  amber  and  topaz  on  the  shallows  to  a  dark  umber 
in  the  deeper  parts,  — forming  a  rich  effect  when  flecked  with  lines  of 
foam  and  lighted  by  the  sunshine.  The  ravine  is  cut  through  the  Trenton 
limestone  formation  of  the  transition  period,  which  contains  trilo  bites, 
nautili,  and  other  fossils  of  interest  (geological  shop  in  the  village);  and 
the  rocks  abound  with  blue  harebells,  in  their  season.  During  low 
water  the  ravine  is  easily  traversed  along  its  base,  but  high  floods  so  till 
the  gorge  that  the  path  on  the  cliff  must  be  followed.  (Tourists  who  in- 
tend to  remain  several  days  should  buy  the  pleasant  guide-book,  "  Trenton 
Falls";  edited  by  N.  P.  Willis.) 

Entering  the  primeval  forest  near  the  hotel,  the  edge  of  the  cafion  is 
soon  reached,  with  a  pleasant  path  turning  along  the  cliff  to  the  1.  and 
passing  tp  the  High  Falls  (in  high  water  this  path  must  be  taken).    A 

7* 


I  li 


:. 


154     Route  i4. 


TRENTON  PALLS. 


series  of  stairways  here  descends  the  cliff  for  100  ft.  to  the  broad  stratum 
on  the  verge  of  the  rapids.  From  this  point  the  Chasm  is  seen,  750  ft.  to 
the  r. ;  while  up  the  gorge  about  600  ft.  is  seen  the  Sherman  Fall.  Pass- 
ing along  *'  this  deep  cave  open  at  the  top,  ....  with  the  sky  appar- 
ently resting,  like  a  ceiling,  upon  the  leafy  architraves,"  and  viewing 
every  variety  of  water-passion,  the  path  leads  under  the  overhanging 
cliffs  to  the  rapids  and  the  *  Sherman  Fall.  The  water  here  plunges 
over  a  wall  33  ft.  high,  into  which  it  has  cut  a  deep  perpendicular  chan- 
nel. Cliffs  150  ft.  high  tow^  over  the  ravine  at  this  point,  and  a  stairway 
leads  up  alongside  and  "  in  very  close  quarters  with  the  cataract  "to  the 
parapet  on  the  summit  level.  Going  on  for  about  800  ft.  farther  the  path 
conducts  to  the  *  High  Falls,  where  the  river  first  plunges  over  a  long 
diagonal  wall  40  ft.  high,  then  sweeps  along  a  level  rock  pavement  and 
■whitens  away  down  a  highly  tilted  inclined  plane  with  40  ft.  more  of  descent. 
In  high  water,  clouds  of  mist  lit  by  rainbows  arise  here,  enshrouding  even 
the  tall  hemlocks  and  cedars  on  the  cliffs  above.  A  dark,  quiet  basin  lies 
below  the  Falls,  and  On  the  r.  is  the  tall  parapet  of  East  Cliff  (reached  by 
road  in  2^  M.  from  tlie  hotel,  and  overlooking  the  creek  and  ravine). 
The  best  view  of  the  series  of  Falls  is  from  Carmichael's  Point  on  the  r. 
bank  (1.  side  in  ascending).  Crossing  now  broad  and  level  ledges,  several 
stairways  are  ^iscended,  and  the  visitor  reaches  the  Rural  Retreat,  —  a 
small  house  alongside  of  and  overlooking  the  High  Falls,  ^yhere  refresh- 
ments are  offered.  The  veranda  affords  a  pleasant  i*esting-place.  There  is 
more'  breadth  to  the  ravine  above  this  point,  and  about  600  ft.  beyond  is 
the  Mill-Dam  Fall^  14  ft.  high  and  100  ft.  wide.  Just  above  this  is  a 
broad  stone  platform  250  x  1,500  ft.,  enwalled  by  cedar-trees  growing 
from  the  cliffs,  and  tenninated  by  a  precipice  60  ft.  high.  This  great  hall 
of  Nature  is  called  the  Alhambra,  and  the  passionate  little  cataract  above 
it  is  the  Cascade  of  the  Alhambra.  Beyond  the  cascade  a  broad  amphi- 
theatre is  entered,  and  the  path  is  pursued  by  quaint  stratified  forms  and 
musical  waters  to  the  romantic  gorge  through  which  the  stream  is  cutting 
its  way.  The  outer  pile  of  these  water- worn  strata  is  called  the  Rocky 
Heart,  since  it  resembles  the  traditional  heart  in  its  outlines.  Near  this 
is  Jacob's  Well,  a  deep  pot-hole  worn  by  the  motion  of  pebbles.  Some 
visitors  pass  on  from  this  point  to  Boon's  Bridge  and  the  Fifth,  or  Pros- 
pect,  Fall  (3  M.  from  the  hotel),  but  most  would  prefer  to  turn  back  here, 
and  to  walk  to  the  hotel  by  the  path  on  the  cliff,  which  is  gained  by 
ascending  from  the  Rural  Retreat.  Those  who  wish  to  ascend  the  chasm 
to  Prospect  Fall  should  start  in  the  morning,  dine  at  Prospect,  and  pass 
down  the  ravine  in  the  afternoon.  A  pleasant  road  leads  to  this  point  in 
3  M.  by  the  lovely  valley  of  Cincinnati  Creek,  in  Parker's  Hollow.  Be- 
sides the  drives  to  the  fine  view-point  on  East  Cliff  (2^  M. ),  and  to  Pros- 
pect Falls,  the  trout-ponds  in  the  vicinity  are  well  worthy  of  a  visit. 


BOONVILLK 


R&ute  24.      155 


»Toad  stratum 
jen,  750  ft.  to 
I  Fall.    Pass- 
le  sky  appar- 
'  and  viewing 
)  overhanging 
here  plunges 
idicular  chan- 
tnd  a  stairway 
taract"  tothe 
rther  the  path 
IS  over  a  long 
pavement  and 
Lore  of  descent, 
hrouding  even 
[uiet  basin  lies 
iff  (readied  by 
c  and  ravine). 
*oint  on  the  r. 
ledges,  several 
1  Retreat,  —  a 
■•.vlxere  refresh- 
ace.    There  is 
ft.  beyond  is 
,bove  this  is  a 
trees  growing 
'his  great  hall 
lataract  above 
broad  amphi- 
ed  forms  and 
sam  is  cutting 
|led  the  Rocky 
IS.    Near  this 
ibbles.    Some 
'ifth,  or  Proa- 
iTi  back  here, 
is  gained  by 
nd  the  chasm 
lect,  and  pass 
this  point  in 
Hollow.     Be- 
and  to  Pros- 
a  visit. 


"  Most  people  talk  of  the  mhlimity  of  Trenton,  but  I  have  haunted  it  by  the 
week  together  for  its  mere  loveliness.  The  river,  in  the  heart  of  that  fearful 
chasm  is  the  most  varied  and  beautiful  assemblage  of  the  thousand  forms  and 
shapes'  of  ruuiiinji;  water  that  I  know  in  the  world.  The  soil  and  the  deep- 
Btriking  roots  of  the  forest  terminate  far  above  you,  looking  like  a  black  rim  on 
the  enclosing  precipices.  The  bed  of  the  river  and  its  sky-sustaining  walls  are 
of  solid  rock,  and,  with  the  tremendous  descent  of  the  stream, —forming  for 
miles  one  continuous  succession  of  falls  and  rapids,  —  the  channel  is  worn  into 
cun'es  and  cavities  which  throw  the  clear  water  into  forms  of  inconceivable 
brilliancy  and  variety.  It  is  a  sort  of  half  twilight  below,  with  here  and  there 
a  long  beam  of  sunshine  reaching  down  to  kiss  the  lip  of  an  eddy,  or  form  a  rain- 
bow over  a  fall ;  and  the  reverberating  and  changing  echoes  ....  maintain  a 
constant  and  most  soothing  music,  varying  at  every  step  with  the  varying  phase 
of  the  current.  Cascades  of  from  20  to  30  ft.,  over  which  the  river  flies  with  a 
single  and  hurrying  leap  (not  a  drop  missing  from  the  glassy  and  bending  sheet), 
occur  frequently  as  you^ascend;  and  it  is  from  these  that  the  place  takes  its 
name."    (N.  P.  Willis.) 

1  M.  beyond  Trenton  I'rUs  the  train  reaches  Prospect  {Union  Hall), 
1^  M.  from  the  village,  which  is  near  the  Fifth  Trehton  Fall.  Convey- 
ances are  furnished  here  for  parties  to  the  S.  part  of  the  John  Brown 
Tract.  The  forest-road  runs  up  the  valley  of  W.  Canada  Creek,  and  is 
tolerable  as  far  as  Ohio.  Transparent  Lake  (Joe's)  is  32  M.  from  Pros- 
pect, by  way  of  Paul's  and  Wilkinson's.  It  is  6  M.  long,  end  is  famed 
for  its  many  trout.  3  and  6  M.  distant  are  the  N.  and  S.  Lakes  (feeders 
of  the  Black  River  Canal),  which  are  also  favorite  resorts  for  fishermen. 
Trails  lead  N.  from  N.  Lake  to  the  WoodhuU  and  Fulton  waters.  There 
is  good  brook-trout  fishing  on  Twin  Lake  Stream  (18-20  M.  N.  E.  of 
Prospect).  A  road  runs  E.,  by  the  hamlet  of  Morehouseville,  to  Piseco 
Lake  in  33  M.,  and  to  Lake  Pleasant  in  47  M.  Stations,  Remsen  {Daw- 
son's Hotel),  in  a  town  more  than  half  whose  population  is  Welsh ;  Alder 
Creek;  and  Boonville  {Hulbert  House,  $2  aday,  $6-10  a  week;  American 
Hotel)y  a  thriving  village  of  1,500  inhabitants  at  the  summit  level  of  the 
Black  River  Canal,  and  possessed  of  a  large  country  trade.  This  is 
perhaps  the  favorite  entrance  to  the  Tract.  The  R.  R.  fare  from  N.  Y. 
to  Boonville  is  $  6.40. 

The  John  Broifvn  Tract  embraced  210,000  acres  of  the  North  Woods,  and 
was  bought  (in  1792)  by  John  Brown,  a  wealthy  gentleman  of  Providence,  R.  I., 
who  purposed  planting  large  colonies  there.  He  divided  it  into  8  townsliips, 
named  Industry,  Enterprise,  Perseverance,  Unanimity,  Frugality,  Sobriety,  Econ- 
omy, and  Regularity  ;  and  the  historian  naively  adds,  "  It  has  been  said  that  all 
these  social  virtues  are  needed  for  the  settlement  of  this  region."  In  1812  his 
son-in-law,  Charles  Herreshoff,  tried  to  locate  colonies  here  ;  bui  after  incurring 
great  expense  in  making  clearings,  mills,  etc.,  all  was  found  to  be  in  vain,  and 
in  1819  Herreshoff  committed  suicide,  and  the  settlement  was  broken  up.  The 
Tract  is  still  unoccupied,  save  by  hunt^ers  and  lumbermen  ;  and  while  its  scenery 
is  far  inferior  to  the  Saranac  and  Raquette  regions,  it  affords  better  sport,  because 
it  IS  so  little  visited.  There  is  but  scanty  hotel  accommodation,  and  sportsmen 
usually  encamp  during  their  sojourn  here. 

The  Hulbert  House  furnishes  transportation,  and  many  Brown's  Tract  guides 
live  at  Boonville.  The  first  day's  travel  (by  road)  usually  ends  at  the  Forge  Hotel 
(26  M.  N.  E.),  near  the  First  Fulton  Lake.  Dinner  is  obtained  at  Lawi-ence's,  on 
Moose  River,  where  is  located  the  largest  tannery  in  the  State.  Arnold's  Tavern 
Is  24  M.  lh)m  Boonville,  and  2  M.  ftx>m  the  Forge  Hotel.  Nick's  Lake,  3  M.  by 
trail  from  the  Forge,  is  famous  for  its  trout ;  and  fi.xther  S.  are  the  prolific  spring- 


1  - 


if 


I   ! 


I  ii 


156      H(nUe  i4. 


LOWVILLE. 


holes  on  the  S.  Branch  of  Moose  River.  A  trail  leads  to  the  Woodhull  lAikea  in 
9  M.  N.  of  Arnold's  are  (Jibba  ha\ui  and  tlie  trout-haunts  at  the  Indian  8i)rlng- 
Hole.  The  8  Fulton  Lakes  strotcli  to  tlio  N.  K.  Iruni  neurtlio  Forgo  Ilotel, 
and  form  a  water  avenue  to  tlie  Uaquetto  Lake,  '20  M.  distant.  Tlieir  scenery  is 
very  attractive,  and  prolltaldo  ilsliing  ta  found  alony  tlie  line.  Ascending  Moose 
River  by  boat  for  '2h  M.,  First  Laive  (IJ^  M.  long)  is  entered.  The  Second  and 
Third  Lalces  are  each  1  M.  long,  and  are  connected  by  sliort  inlets.  Near  the 
head  of  Third  Lal<e  is  a  trail  which  leads  to  tlie  top  of  Bald  Mt.  in  1  M.,  and 
gives  a  fine  view  of  Brown's  Tract.  Fourth  Lake  is  0  M.  long,  and  is  tlie  largest 
and  most  beautiful  of  tlie  Fulton  chain.  Tlie  sliorcs  are  elevated  and  irregular, 
and  several  gracefiU  islands  dot  the  waters.  Big  Moose  Lal<e  is  4  M.  long,  and  is 
12  M.  N.  of  Fourth  Lake  (4  M.  of  carries).  Tlie  Fifth  and  Sixth  Lakes  are  but 
small  ponds,  low-sliored  and  lily-covered,  connei^ted  by  a  }  M.  carry.  The  Seventh 
/.ofce  (a  favorite  cainpin«j-ground)  and  its  inlets  give  4  M.  of  level  water,  followed 
by  a  1  M.  carry  to  Eightli  Lake  (2  M.  long).  A  rugged  carry  of  1^  M.  now  leads 
to  tlie  Brown's  Tract  Inlet,  which  affords  4  M.  of  tortuous  navigation  to  tlie 
Haquette  L.ake  (see  page  151).  Numerous  jtonds  and  streams  sparkle  in  the 
forests  on  either  side  of  this  i-oute,  and  afford  i-esorts  for  deer  and  trout.  The 
Woodhull  iMkes  are  26  M.  from  Boonville,  and  ara  sometimes  visited  by  hunting 
parties  by  a  fair  road  passing  E.  by  Wliitc  Lake. 

Port  Leyden  {Douglass  Hotise;  Union  Hotel)  has  large  tanneries,  saw- 
mills, and  iron-works.  The  township  was  early  bought  by  the  high 
sheriff  of  London,  and  was  settled  in  1794-96  by  men  of  Connecticut. 
Below  the  village  are  the  rapids  on  Black  River,  sweeping  through  a  deep 
narrow  gorge  which  was  formerly  known  as  Hellgate.  Sugar  River  lies 
to  the  S.,  and  falls  100  ft.  in  a  goi'ge  whose  walls  are  100-150  ft.  high. 
Below  the  falls  is  a  pretty  glen  filled  with  evergreens  and  enwalled  with 
cliffs,  in  which  are  deep  caverns,  beyond  "which  Sugar  Rive'r  disappears 
under  the  limestone  strata  and  emerges  about  800  ft.  distant.  Lyonsdale 
is  4  M.  from  Port  Leyden,  and  a  road  leads  to  Arnold's  in  22  M.  Lyons 
Falls  ( Walton  House)  is  at  the  High  Falls  on  Black  River,  where  the 
water  plunges  over  a  cliff  63  ft.  high.  4  M.  S.  is  a  factory  where  spruce 
and  poplar  wood  is  ground  into  pulp,  which  is  sent  to  Rome,  and  is  made 
into  paper  there.  Tlie  Brantingham  Lake  House  is  8-10  M.  N.  E.  of 
.Lyons  Falls,  and  is  situated  on  the  S.  shore  of  a  picturesque  lake  which 
affords  good  pickerel  and  bass  fishing.  There  are  2  islands  in  the  lake, 
and  extensive  forests  line  the  shores.  Stations,  Glendale,  Martinsburg 
(2  inns),  and  Lowville  {Howell's  Hotel  and  Lanpher  House,  — $2  a  day, 
$  6  - 10  a  week,  —  2  good  hotels  in  close  rivalry ).  Lowv  ille,  the  capital  of 
Lewis  County,  is  a  pretty  village  of  2,000  inhabitants,  with  6  churches,  2 
banks,  2  weekly  papers,  and  a  large  country  trade.  It  is  situated  in  a 
hill-environed  vale  on  Black  River,  and  has  bome  fine  brick  buildings. 
The  Rural  Cemetery,  W.  of  the  village,  has  over  1  M.  of  drives  on  a 
wooded  plateau  overlooking  the  valley. 

There  is  a  valuable  sulphnr  spring  (hotel  projected)  5  M.  N.  of  L<ywville  ;  and  5-6 
M.  S.  W.,  in  Martinsburg,  is  tlie  Chimney  Point  Gulf,  where  Martin's  Creek  lias 
cut  a  long  ravine  200  -  250  tt.  de<;p  tlu-ough  the  Utica  slate  formations.  The  gorge 
is  narrow  and  tortuous  down  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Cliimney,  where  the  creek 
falls  over  100  ft.  and  enters  a  wide  bowl-8liai>ed  glen  with  precipitous  N.  and  W. 
sides.  "  As  [the  traveller]  comes  upon  its  brink  suddenly,  its  wildness  strikes 
him  with  awe.    Opposite,  and  on  the  1.,  are  dark,  massy,  perpendicular  rocks ; 


y  I 


CARTHAGE. 


Route  94.      157 


before  him  are  lofty  pines  and  hemlocks,  and  far,  far  below,  as  it  were  in  the 
very  bowels  of  the  earth,  tlirough  tlie  openings  in  the  foliage,  indlntinct  glimp- 
ses are  cauglit  of  tlie  foaming  rivulet,  wliile  the  roar  of  tlie  waterfall  and  the 
grandeur  of  the  surrounding  landscape  odd  an  interest  to  the  scene  rarely  ex- 
perienced." 

From  Lowville  is  the  usual  entrance  to  the  N.  part  of  Brown's  Tract,  — 
the  Number  1  and  Stillwater  distriota.  A  tolerable  road  leads  by  Smith's 
Landing  and  Crystal  Lake  to  the  commodious  Fenton  House  (18  M.)  in 
township  No.  4,  and  fronting  on  Beaver  Lake,  which  is  a  renowned  deer- 
haunt.  The  Francis,  Crooked,  Sand,  and  Sunday  Lakes,  and  other  trout- 
resorts,  are  in  this  vicinity;  and  3-4  M.  N.  W.  is  the  beautiful  scenery 
around  Eagle  Falls.  It  is  28  M.  from  No.  4  to  Smith's  Lake.  The  rugged 
remains  pf  the  old  military  road  from  Crown  Point  to  Carthage  may  be 
followed  (by  wagons)  for  11  M.  E.  from  No.  4  to  Stillwater  ( WardweWs 
tavern).  The  forest  is  studded  on  every  side  with  ponds  which  afford 
good  fishing.  The  Wolf  Ponds  and  Red  Horse  Chain  are  on  the  N.  ;  and 
Big  Moose  Lake  lies  to  the  S.  E.  12-14  M.  N.  E.  is  Albani/  Lake,  which 
is  over  6  M.  long,  and  is  a  favorite  sporting-ground  on  account  of  the 
deer  and  trout  which  are  found  there.  2  -  3  M.  N.  of  Albany  is  Smith'i 
Lake,  the  finest  in  the  Tract.  It  is  about  3  M.  in  diameter,  and  abounds 
in  speckled  and  salmon  trout.  The  scenery  is  very  attractive,  —  its  most 
prominent  feature  being  Smith's  Rock,  a  far- viewing  cliff  on  the  W.  shore, 
—  while  many  islands  dot  the  surface  of  the  waters.  Little  Tupper  Lake 
is  but  6  M.  E.  of  Smith's  Lake  (by  Charley  Pond).  By  a  line  of  ponds 
and  carries,  Beach's  Lake  is  reached  (14-15  M.  S.),  from  which  a  carry 
of  4  M.  leads  to  Raquette  Lake  (see  page  151). 

Croglian  {Nortz  Hotel)  is  a  French  village  10  M.  N.  E.  of  Lowville  (dail^  stage). 
4  M.  from  this  place  is  tlie  old  Prussian  settlement  of  Naumburgh,  with  its  2 
churches,  and  4  M.  N.  E.  is  the  hamlet  of  Belfort,  whence  a  road  runs  9  M.  N.  £. 
to  the  famous  flshing-grounds  on  tlie  S.  brandi  of  the  Oswegatchie.  8  M.  N.  W. 
of  Lowville  is  Copenhagen  (Wasliington  Hotel),  within  1  M.  of  which  are  the 
Higli  Falls,  where  Deer  River  descends  106  ft.  in  a  deep  gorge  of  the  Trenton 
limestone.  2  M.  below  are  the  King's  Falls  (a  descent  of  40  ft.),  so  named  because 
they  were  mucli  admired  by  Joseph  Bonaparte,  ex-king  of  Spain,  etc. 

Carthage  {Levis  House;  Adams)  is  reached  by  the  railroad  16  M.  N. 
of  Lowville.  It  is  an  important  manufacturing  village  on  Black  River, 
and  is  the  W.  terminus  of  the  old  State  Road,  which  leads  to  Crown  Point 
in  133  M.  Much  of  this  road  has  been  re-M'on  by  the  forest,  but  the  sec- 
tion from  Carthage  to  Stillwater  (35  M.)  is  kept  in  tolerable  repair.  The 
Oswegatchie  fishing-grounds  are  reached  by  way  of  Harrisville  (inn),  which 
is  20  M.  N.  E.,  and  3  M.  from  Lake  Bonaparte. 

Joseph  Bonaparte,  >)rother  of  the  great  Napoleon,  Count  de  Survilliers,  ex-king 
of  Spain,  Naples,  and  the  Uicilies,  was  in  France  during  a  season  of  terrible  battles 
and  national  apprehension.  He  met  Le  Ray  de  Chaumont,  who  then  owned  and 
was  colonizing  large  sections  of  Northern  New  York,  ami  said  to  him,  "  Here  [ 
live  in  the  street,  with  several  ambulances  loaded  witli  gold  and  jewels.  Take 
these  treasures,  and  give  me  part  of  your  Ameriran  forests."  Le  Ray  olyected  on 
account  of  the  Prince's  ignoraoco  of  the  character  of  the  wild  woodlands  ;  but 


♦ 


158     Haute  24*  SACKETT'S  HARBOR.' 


'I  I' 


iff     i  II 


Bonaparte  answered,  "  I  will  take  /our  word  for  that ;  the  gold  may  be  stolen 
from  me  in  an  hour."  He  came  to  his  wild  domain  in  18t^9,  and  built  a  roomy 
house  (with  one  section  bullet-proof)  at  the  Natural  Bridge,  where  the  Indian 
River  nows  for  several  .xids  under  the  level  strata  of  limestone,  forming  a  cavern 
where  large  stalactites  are  found. 


'  Here  he  forgot  La  Oranja's  gladei, 
Eicurial'a  dork  and  gloomy  dome, 


And  tweet  Sorrento's  deathlen  ahodea, 
In  hit  far-off  secluded  home." 


bold  rocky  shores,  alteniat'ng  with  wooded  swamps  and "  intervales,  juesenting 
altogether  one  of  the  most  picturesque  and  quiet  woodland  scenes  which  the  greal 
forest  affords. "  At  Harrisville  the  Polish  Prince  Sulkowski  spent  several  years 
of  exile,  but  in  1856  was  restored  to  his  hereditary  honors  and  returned  home.  A 
road  leads  N.  E.  from  Harrisville  by  Pitcairn  to  the  wide  forest-to>vn  of  Fine, 
near  Cranberry  Lake.  A  railroad  is  projected  from  Carthage  to  Harrisville. 
There  are  many  Swiss  colonists  in  this  vicinity. 

The  railroad  runs  W.  28  M.  from  Carthage  doMoi  the  Black  River  Valley 
(crossing  Route  25  at  Watertown)  to  Saokett's  Harbor  (the  Earl  H<yuse 
and  Porter  House  are  summer  hotels  ;  Orafton  House).  This  is  one  of 
the  finest  harbors  on  the  lakes,  and  is  spoken  of  as  a  terminus  for  the 
Hoosac  Tunnel  route  to  Boston.  The  Madison  Barracks  are  here,  and  are 
generally  kept  garrisoned. 

Sackett's  Harbor  was  the  chief  naval  station  on  the  lakes  during  the  War  of 
1812,  and  millions  of  dollars  were  spent  here  for  public  works.  In  July,  1812,  it 
was  attacked  by  a  British  fleet  of  5  frigates  (82  cannon),  but  after  a  long  bombai-d- 
ment  the  assailants  were  driven  off  with  heavy  loss.  One  shot  from  the  shore 
batteries  killed  and  wounded  32  men  on  the  Royal  George.  In  Sept.,  1812,  Com. 
Chauncey  sailed  from  the  harbor  with  10  vessels  (6i  guns),  but  was  soon  forced 
back  by  Com.  Sir  James  Yeo,  with  a  superior  force.  For  2  years  war-vessels  were 
built  here,  while  the  British  were  fUlly  as  active  at  Kingston.  The  fleet  which 
had  the  most  guns  would  sweep  Lake  Ontario  until  the  opposing  fleet  received  a 
new  vessel,  when  it  would  flee  to  port  and  commence  building.  In  May,  1818, 
Sir  James  Yeo  attacked  Sackett's  Harbor  with  1,000  soldiers,  6  frigates,  and  03 
cannon.  A  panic  ensued  among  the  militia,  and  in  the  flight  $  500,000  worth  of 
supplies  and  a  frigati.  vere  burnt.  2  war- vessels  ran  up  Black  River  and  were 
saved.  The  Albany  volunteers  and  the  regulars  retired  slowly  before  the  enemy 
until  they  reached  the  barracks,  where  a  firm  stand  was  made.  Meanwhile  Fort 
Tompkins  was  firing  steadily,  and  small  parties  of  the  routed  militia  were  gather- 
ing on  the  British  flanks.  Sir  George  Prevost  commanded  a  retreat,  and  em- 
barked his  troqps  after  a  loss  of  261  men  (American  loss,  131).  In  1814  the  place 
was  secured  by  JForts  Tompkins,  Pike,  Virginia,  and  Kentucky  (with  84  guns),  and 
by  fortified  barracks  for  4,500  men.  The  garrison  was  composed  of  6,000  N.  Y. 
militia.  Gens.  Pike  and  Covington  and  several  other  officers  who  fell  in  battle 
were  buried  here  (in  unmarked  graves).  In  Aug.,  1814,  Coin.  Chauncey  sailed 
hence  with  the  Superior,  62,  Mohawk,  42,  Pike,  28,  Maiiii>on,  Jefferson,  and  Jones, 
each  22,  and  the  Sylph  and  Oiieida,  each  16  guns.  With  this  powerful  fleet  lie 
thought  that  the  question  of  naval  supremacy  was  settled,  and  blockaded  Sir 
James  Yeo  at  Kingston.  A  month  later.  Yeo  finished  the  St.  Lawrence,  an  im- 
mense 112-gun  ship,  with  a  crew  of  1,000  men,  and  Chauncey  fled  to  Sackett's  Har- 
bor, where  ho  was  immedialely  blockaded.  He  commenced  the  building  of  2 
mammoth  frigates,  the  New  Orleans  and  the  Chippeuja,  of  120  giins  each,  and  would 
soon  have  regained  tiie  mastery  of  the  lake,  but  the  war  closed  before  his  levi- 
athans were  launched,  and-  the  costly  fleets  were  rendered  useless,  and  were  sold 
for  cDunnen  ial  purposes.  The  Chippewa  was  taken  to  pieces,  but  the  New  Orleans 
still  rcmaii)*  on  the  stocks,  and  has  been  housed  over.  On  Sandy  Creek,  S.  of  tlie 
Harbor,  a  British  t)oat  expedition  was  attacked  by  150  regulai's  under  2  Georgian 
otHuers,  and  lost  68  killed  and  woimded,  170  prisoners,  and  7  guus. 


a;' 


WATERTOWN. 


HouU  tS.     159 


After  leaving  Carthage  the  main  line  passes  13  M.  N.  through  the  for- 
est to  Philadelphia^  where  it  crosses  Route  26.  7  M.  beyond  this  point 
the  train  reaches  Theresa  (Getman  House),  at  the  High  Falls  of  the  In- 
dian River.  From  Tlieresa  Junction  the  line  has  been  prolonged  to  Mor- 
ristown,  on  the  St.  Lawrence  River,  opposite  Brockville.  The  train  now 
crosses  the  towns  of  Orleans  and  Clayton,  and  stops  at  Clayton  (Hubbard 
House),  on  the  St.  Lawrence,  whence  steamboats  run  to  Alexandria  Bay 
(see  Route  28)  on  the  arrival  of  trains. 

25.  Borne  to  Ogdensburg  and  Alexandria  Bay. 

By  tJie  Borne,  Watertown  and  Ogdensburg  R.  R.  from  the  city  of  Rome  (see 
Route  2ii).  Three  exi»ress-train3  run  daily  (in  summer^  This  is  the  usual  route 
to  Alexandria  Bay,  25  hrs.  from  New  York  (fare  from  N.  Y.  to  Cape  Vincent, 
$8.20),  and  drawing-room  cara  run  as  far  as  Cape  Vincent,  wliere  the  river-steam- 
ers are  talien  (3  hrs.  to  Alexandria  Bay).  Tickets  and  information  may  be  obtJiiiied 
at  413  Broadway,  N.  Y..  and  the  Orand  Central  Depot.  Fares  from  Rome  to 
Richland.  ^1.30;  Oswego,  ib!2;  Watertown,  )$2.20;  Cape  Vincent,  $2.90;  Rich- 
ville,  $3.45;  Ogdensburg,  $4.30  ;  Potsdam,  $4.23. 

Stations :  Rome  ;  Taberg,  11  M. ;  McConiielsville,  13  ;  Camden,  18  ;  W.  Cam- 
den, 23  ;  Williamstown,  28 ;  Kasoag,  31 ;  Albion,  37  :  Ricldand,  42  (branch  line  to 
Pulaski,  40  ;  Sand  Hill,  50 ;  Mexico,  55  ;  New  Haven,  60  ;  Scriba,  64  ;  Oswego, 
71) ;  Sandy  Creek,  47  ;  Mannsville,  52  ;  Pierrepont  Manor,  54  ;  Adams,  59  ;  Adams 
Centre,  62  ;  Watertown,  72  (branch  to  Brownville,  75  ;  Limerick,  79  ;  Chaumont, 
85  ;  3  M.  Bay,  88  :  Rosiere,  92  ;  Cape  Vincent,  96)  ;  Sanford's  Corners,  78  ;  Evans' 
Mills,  83  ;  Philadelphia,  90  ;  Antwerp,  96  ;  Keene's,  101  ;  Gouvemeur,  108  ;  Rich- 
ville,(116 ;  De  Kalb  Juno.,  123  (branch  to  Canton,  131  ;  Potsdam,  142 ;  Potsdam 
Junction,  148) ;  Rensselaer  Falls,  130  ;  Heuvelton,  135  ;  Ogdensburg,  142. 

The  line  runs  N.  W.  from  Rome  across  the  upper  part  of  Oneida  Co. 
Stations  :  Taberg,  near  the  ravines  on  Fall  Creek  ;  McConnelsville;  Cam- 
den (Whitney  House),  a  manufacturing  village;  W.  Camden,  Williams- 
town,  Kasoag,  Albion,  and  Richland  (Mellen's  Hotel),  which  is  near  the 
Richland  Trout  Ponds,  where  boats  and  tackle  ar<^  furnished  to  fishermen 
upon  payment  of  a  round  fee. 

A  branch  road  diverges  from  Richland  to  Oswego, 29  M.  8.  W.  Stations: 
Pulaski  {Gray' a  Hotel),  a  semi-capital  of  Oswego  Co.,  with  2,000  inhabitants; 
Mexico  (Empire  House),  a  flourishing  village  which  is  called  "  the  TJotherof  Coun- 
ties," because  at  its  settlement  (in  1792)  it  included  a  greater  part  of  4  counties  : 
Niw  Haven  (village  1  M.  S.  W.  of  station)  ;  and  Scriba.  This  district  is  noted  for  its 
lai-ge  crops  of  apples,  and  boi-ders  on  the  lake.  Beyo» .1  Scriba  the  line  pa-sses  out 
on  the  shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  sweeps  around  close  under  the  ramparts  of  Fort 
Ontario,  and  stops  at  Oswego  (see  Route  32). 

5  M.  beyond  Richland  the  main  line  meets  the  Syracuse  Div.,  R.  W.  & 
0.  R.  R.,  which  runs  S.  to  Syracuse  in  44  M.  The  wealthy  farming  town 
of  EUisburgh  is  now  traversed.  Adams  (Cooper  House)  is  a  village  of 
1,800  inhabitants,  with  4  churches  and  the  Hungerford  Collegiate  Institute. 
From  Adams  Centre  (Merchants'  Hotel)  daily  stages  run  to  Belleville  (5 
M.  S.  W.)and  Henderson  ^  M.  W.,  near  Lake  Ontario).  Watertown 
(*  Woodruff  House;  American;  Kirby)  is  a  prosperous  city  of  9,336i 
inhabitants  with  large  factories  on  the  rapids  of  Black  River.  The  busi- 
ness part  of  the  city  is  on  the  spacious  square  near  the  station,  which  is 


I 


160     Route  25. 


CAPE  VINCENT. 


Burrounded  by  substantial  brick  blocks.  In  the  centre  are  two  parked 
lawns  and  an  elegant  bronze  fountain.  A  large  retail  trade  is  done  by 
the  shops  in  the  two  glass-roofed  arcades  near  the  square.  Washington 
St.  is  a  broad  rural  avenue  which  is  lined  with  villas.  There  are  10 
churches,  10  banks,  and  1  daily  and  3  weekly  papers.  The  Brookside 
Cemetery  is  2J  M.  S.  of  Watertown,  and  the  new  Calvary  Cemetery,  2  M. 
distant,  is  favorably  situated  in  a  broad  bend  of  the  Black  River.  There 
are  extensive  caverns  in  the  limestone  formation  under  the  city.  Water- 
town  was  founded  in  1800,  and  is  the  capital  of  Jefferson  County. 

Tlie  Sackett's  Harbor.Branch  of  the  Utica  &  Black  River  R.  R.  crosses 
the  present  route  at  Watertown.  A  branch  of  the  R.,  W.,  &  0.  R.  R. 
runs  thence  N.  W.  24  M.  to  Cape  Vincent.  After  passing  the  stations 
Brownville  and  Limerick,  the  branch  line  approaches  Chaumont  Bay,  on 
which  are  the  stations  of  Chaumont  ( Union  Hotel)  and  3  M.  Point.  This 
capacious  bay  affords  large  and  lucrative  seine-fisheries,  lake-herring  and 
white-fish  being  very  abundant.  The  bay  is  nearly  landlocked,  and  on 
its  shores  are  several  ship-yards.  It  was  named  in  honor  of  Le  Ray  de 
Chaumont,  a  French  gentleman  who  owned  extensive  tracts  in  N.  N.  Y.  The 
limestone  quarries  in  this  town  are  of  great  value,  and  have  furnished  ma- 
terial for  many  of  the  public  works  along  the  lake.  Cape  Vincent  {St. 
Laiorence  Hotel)  is  an  active  commercial  port,  with  grain-elevators, 
wharves,  and  a  lighthouse.  It  was  settled  in  1809  in  a  favorable  location 
near  the  efflux  of  the  St.  Lawrence  from  Lake  Ontario.  The  Vermont 
Central  propellers  stop  here,  and  a  line  of  ferry-boats  runs  to  Kingston, 
Canada.  A  fine  steamer  leaves  Cape  Vincent  (in  summer)  on  the  arrival 
of  the  trains  at  9.35  a.  m.  and  4.55  p.  m.,  and,  after  touching  at  Clayton, 
reaches  Alexandria  Bay  at  noon  and  at  7.45  p.  h. 


■  The  main  line  runs  N.  R  from  Watertown  across  the  wilderness  towTi 
of  Le  Ray  (2  stations),  crosses  Route  24  at  Philadelphia,  and  passes 
Antwerp  (Proctor  House),  a  village  on  Indian  River,  near  several  large 
iron-mines.  Rossie  (with  valuable  iron  and  lead  mines)  is  next  crossed, 
and  the  train  stops  at  Oouvemeur  {Central  Hotel;  Van  Buren  House), 
on  the  Oswegatchie  River.  This  tract  belonged  to  Gouvemeur  Morris, 
and  was  settled  in  1805.  The  Wesleyan  Seminary  is  located  here,  and 
the  Riverside  Cemetery,  opposite  the  village,  has  pleasant  grounds.  The 
North  Woods  are  sometimes  entered  from  this  station,  by  a  road  which 
leads  by  FuUersville  and  Edwards  to  Fine,  25  M.  E.  Cranberry  Lake  is 
11  M.  from  Fine,  by  boating  up  the  Oswegatchie  River.  Cranberry  Lake 
to  the  Tupper  Lakes,  see  page  149.  Passing  Richfield  station,  the  train 
stops  at  De  Kalb  Junction. 

A  railroad  26  M.  long  was  built  from  E.  De  Kalb  to  the  Clifton  Iron 
Mines,  toward  Oanberry  Lake.    It  is  now  disused.    Daily  stages  run 


THE  N.  Y.  CENTRAL  R.  R     JtoutetS.      161 


fh>m  the  junction  to  Clarksbaro*  (Clifton  Hotel),  24  M.  S.  K ;  12  M.  be' 
yond  which  (poor  road)  is  Cranberry  Lake,  a  sheet  15  M.  long,  whose 
low  shores  have  been  flooded  until  the  trees  have  died.  Boats  and  guides 
may  be  obtained  at  the  dam,  10  M.  from  Clarksboro',  and  the  surrounding 
forests  abound  in  haunts  of  trout  and  deer  (but  are  deficient  in  scenery). 

The  main  line  passes  on  from  De  Kalb  to  Canton  {Bridges'  Hotel),  the 
capital  of  St.  Lawrence  County,  with  factories  on  the  water-power  afforded 
by  Grass  River.  Canton  is  the  seat  of  St.  Lawrence  University,  a  modem 
institution  of  the  Universalist  Church,  with  70-80  students  and  a  hand- 
some library  building.  Station,  Potsdam  {American  Houae)^  a  large 
factory  village  on  the  Raquette  River,  where  the  State  Normal  School  is 
located.  Potsdam  to  the  Wilderness,  see  page  148.  At  Potsdam  Junc- 
tion the  line  intersects  the  Lake  Champlain  R.  R.  (Route  14).  A  branch 
R.  R.  runs  N.  W.  from  De  Ealb  Junction,  near  the  Oswegatchie  River,  to 
Ogdensburg  (see  Route  28). 

28.    New  Tork  to  TTdca;  Sochester,  and  Niagara  Falls. 

By  the  N.  Y.  Central  and  Hudson  River  B.  R..  which  is  a  consolidation  in  one 
trunk-line  of  several  smaller  railroads.  "  From  the  time  it  leaves  New  York 
until  it  reaches  Buffalo  or  Suspension  Bridge,  it  traverses  the  garden  of  N.  Y. 
State,  rich  in  agricultural  and  industrial  resources,  and  teeming  with  a  large  pop- 
ulation." The  road  and  its  efjuipment  cost  $63,300,000 ;  and  immense  amounts 
are  now  being  expended  in  laying  a  quadruple  track  throughout  the  whole  line,  to 
accommodate  the  Western  ft«ight.  Wagner's  drawing-room  and  sleeping-cars  are 
attached  to  the  fast  trains,  and  the  road  is  laid  with  steel  rails.  New  York  to 
Poughkeepsie,  4  hrs.;  to  Albany,  5^  hrs. ;  to  Utica,  8^  hrs.;  to  Rochester,  14  hrs.; 
to  BufTalo,  17  hrs. ;  to  Niagara  Falls,  17  hrs. 

Fares.  — New  York  to  Poughkeepsie,  $1.46;  to  Albany,  $3.10;  Fort  71ain, 
14.28;  Utica,  $6;  Syracuse,  $6.06;  Auburn,  $6.58;  Rochester,  $7.68 ;  Batavia, 
$8.30;  Buffalo,  $9.25;  Niagara  Falls,  $9.25.  Also  to  Burlington,  Vt.,  $8.65; 
Montpelier,  $10.30;  Montreal,  $12.05;  Lake  Luzerne,  N.  Y.,  $6.15;  Coopers- 

itown,  $6.15;  Boonville,  $6.40;  Cape  Vincent,  $8.80;  Oswego,  $7.25;  Clifton 

[Springs,  $7.34.  To  Toronto,  Ont.,  $12.25  ;  Cleveland,  $14.25  ;  Detroit,  $16.26  ; 
Cincinnati,  $20;  Chicago,  $22;  Milwaukee,  $25;  St.  Louis,  $27;  St.  Paul, 
$37.25;  Memphis,  $.S8.25 ;  Vicksburg,  $47;  MobUe,  $45;  New  Orleans,  $60; 

lOmaha,  $39.50 ;  Salt  Lake  City,  $119.50 ;  San  Francisco,  $139.60 ;  Portland.  Or.. 

1$  175.50. 

Stations.  —  N.  Y.  to  Albany,  see  pt,ge  62.  From  N.  Y.  to  Albany,  142  M. ; 
shenectady,  159;  Hoffhian,  168;  Amsterdam,  175;  Tribes'  Hill,  180|;  Fonda, 
185J;  Yost's,  191;  Sprakers,  194;  Palatine  Bridge,  197;  Fort  Plain,  200;  St. 
Tohnsville,  206;  Little  Falls,  215^;  Herkimer,  223;  Ilion,  225;  Frankfort,  227; 
7tica,  237 ;  Whitesboro",  240J;  Oriakany,  243  i ;  Rome,  251 ;  Verona,  259 J ;  Oneida, 
64 ;  Canastota,  269 ;  Canaseraga,  273 ;  Chittenango,  275 ;  Kirk  ville,  279 ;  Manlius, 
|82 ;  Syracuse,  289J ;  {Old  Road)  Camillu?.  298 ;  Marcellus,  300 ;  Skaneateles,  807 ; 
Bennett,  310 ;  Auburn,  315  ;  Cayura,  326 ;  Seneca  Falls,  331 ;  Waterloo,  334 ;  Ge- 
leva,  341 ;  Phelps,  349 ;  Clifton  Springs,  853 ;  Shortsville,  357J ;  Canandaigua, 
|63J ;  Farmington,  369J  ;  Fisher's,  377  ;  Pittsford,  384  ;  Rochester,  392  ;  Mem- 
phis, 302 ;  Jordan,  307 ;  Weedsport,  311 ;  Port  Byron,  314| ;  Savannah,  322 ; 
31yde,  328 ;  Lyons,  335 ;  Newark,  340  ;  Palmyra,  348*  ;  Macedon,  353 ;  Fau^ort, 
I60i  ;  Rochester,  370* ;  Chili,  381 ;  Chm:ch';ille,  385  ;  Bergen,  388  ;  Byron,  .S95  ; 
Batavia,  402* ;  Crofts,  408*  ;  Corfti,  414 ;  Crittenden,  419 ;  Wende,  422 ;  Grimes- 
4Ue,  428  ;  Forks,  431 ;  BuflWo,  440  ;  Niagara,  449  ;  Cleveland,  622  ;  Cincinnati. 
SO ;  Chicago,  970 ;  St  Louis,  1,266 ;  Salt  Lake  City.  2,637 :  San  Francisco.  S.37a 


New  York  to  Albany,  see  Route  8. 


•/. 


162     RouU  te. 


SCHENECTADY. 


'II 


:ii 


PMsing  out  throngli  the  streets  of  Albany,  the  train  soon  reaches  W. 
Albany f  with  its  extensive  cattle-yards,  and  with  car  and  machine  shops 
employing  nearly  1,300  men.  The  line  now  approaches  the  Mohawk, 
and  in  17  M.  from  Albany  reaches  BoheiMOtady  {QiverCs  Hotel;  Car- 
leyi's)t  a  city  of  11,026  inhabitants,  situated  on  a  broad  intervale  near  the 
liver.  It  has  14  churches,  i  daily  papers,  and  2  banks;  iron-works  which 
have  made  90  iron  bridges  for  the  Central  R.  R.,  and  others  which  make 
75  locomotives  yearly.  At  the  head  of  a  hillside  square  on  the  E.  is  an 
arsenal  of  the  State,  near  the  pretentious  Methodist  Church.  In  the  W. 
part  of  the  city  is  the  quaint  old  St.  George's  Church  and  an  elegant 
Gothic  church,  while  the  old  college  buildings  are  near  the  river.  On 
the  E.  is  the  Vale  Cemetery,  with  a  monument  to  57  Revolutionary 
soldiers  amid  large  pine  groves.  TTnion  TTniversitj  is  situated  on  the 
heights  over  the  city,  and  has  2  large  buildings  with  long  wings,  between 
which  is  the  costly  and  ornate  •  Library  building,  of  stone,  with  Scotch 
granite  columns,  and  forming  a  polygonal  figure.  Th.e  collections  of 
apparatus  and  specimens  are  large,  and  include  the  Wheatley  Collection 
of  minerals  and  shells ;  and  the  library  is  of  great  value.  A  school 
of  civil  engineering  and  analytical  chemistry  is  attached  to  the  Univer- 
sity. 

Behenectady  was  assaulted  at  midnight,  Feb.  8,  16&1,  by  250  Frenchmen  and 
Indians.  63  persons  were  massacred,  and  27  were  led  into  captivity ;  while  the 
town  and  church  were  given  to  the  flames.  Union  College  was  founded  in  1795 
by  a  union  of  several  religious  sects,  and  is  richly  endowed.  Eliphalet  Nott  was 
its  president  from  1804  until  1866. 

Leaving  Schenectady,  the  University  is  seen  on  the  r.,  and  the  line 
crosses  the  Erie  Canal  and  Mohawk  River  on  a  long  iron  bridge,  and  trav- 
erses those  alluvial  plains  of  Glenville  which  were  called  Moialwyek  and 
Woeatina  by  the  ancient  Dutch  colonists.  On  the  1.  is  the  fruitful  Bouw- 
land,  and  Hoffman's  Ferry  is  approached  by  the  Touareunc  Hills.  The 
ferry  was  established  by  Hermanns  Yedder  in  1790.  Glenville  was  settled 
by  the  Dutch  in  1665,  and  was  on  the  manor  of  Sander  Leendertse  Glen. 
Passing  the  villages  of  Van  Vechteu  and  Cranesville,  the  train  reaches 
^^^Lmiterdam  (Arnold  House),  a  prosperous  factory  village  of  5,426  inhab- 
itants, situated  in  a  fertile  farming  country  at  the  outlet  of  Chuctenunda 
("  twin-sisters  ")  Creek.  On  the  broad  Mohawk  intervales  are  plantations 
of  broom-corn,  which  flourishes  in  the  deep  alluvial  loam;  and  the  hill- 
country  is  devoted  to  pasturage,  dairy  products  being  an  important  source 
of  revenue.  Daily  stages  run  from  Amsterdam  to  Northville  (24  M.  N.); 
connecting  with  stages  for  Lake  Pleasant  (Wednesday  and  Saturday). 

Tribeii*  Hill  is  a  rural  hamlet  6  M.  W.  of  Amsterdam,  and  derives  its  name 
from  a  moimd  where  the  Indians  were  accustomed  to  hold  their  coimcils.  This 
district  was  held  by  the  valiant  Mohawks,  who  were  conciliated  by  the  settlers, 
and  being  hostile  to  the  French  on  account  of  Champlain's  raid  m  1609,  they 


TRIBES*  HILL. 


Jtoute26.      163 


formed  valuable  auxiliaries  in  the  early  carapalgna  to  the  N.  Between  1643  and 
1648  the  Jesuits  labored  among  them,  and  fearlessly  followed  to  martyrtlom  their 
consecrated  leader.  Father  Jogues,  the  discoverer  of  Lake  8t.  Sacrement.  In  1671 
they  led  their  proselytes  to  Canada,  where  the  Mohawk  dialect  is  still  preserved 
at  Caughnawaga.  The  heathen  who  remained  strengthened  the  tribal  "  castles." 
and  shielded  the  Anglo-Dutch  colonies  from  French  attacks.  Several  raids  trom 
Montreal  swept  over  the  valley,  and  were  repaid  by  a  movement  of  the  whole 
Mohawk  nation  upon  that  city,  in  which  it  was  laid  in  ruins,  and  hundreds  of 
Frenchmen  were  massacred.  In  1692  the  French  harried  the  valley  with  strong 
forces,  and  destroyed  the  Indian  castles,  carrying  back  300  captive  warriors.  In 
1711  Fort  Hunter  was  built  near  Tribes'  Hill,  and  Queen  Anne  s  Chapel  was  soon 
afterward  erected,  and  was  furnished  with  a  communion  service  by  Queen  Anne. 
It  stood  near  the  castle  of  Osscunenon,  and  was  fortified  with  artillery  in  the  Revo- 
lution. About  1710  large  numbera  of  immigrants  from  the  German  Palatinate 
settled  here,  and  mingled  with  the  Holland  men.  In  1735  Admiral  Sir  Peter 
Warren  acquired  abroad  estate  in  this  region,  and  sent  his  young  nephew,  Wm. 
Johnson,  as  his  agent.  In  1740  he  built  a  large  and  well-fortified  stone  mansion 
between  Tribes'  Hill  and  Amsterdam,  and  lived  in  great  state  and  elegance.  He 
learned  the  Mohawk  language,  and  frequently  adopted  their  dress,  and  soon  ac- 

Jnlreil  an  almost  boundless  infiuence  over  them.  He  commanded  the  army  which 
efeated  Dleskau  at  tlie  Battle  of  Lake  George,  and  was  made  a  baronet  for  that 
achievement.  In  1758  he  led  his  red  warriors  in  Abercrombie's  army,  and  firom 
Mt.  Defiance  watched  the  disastrous  attack  on  Tlconderoga.  He  died  suddenly 
in  1774,  and  it  is  now  supposed  that  he  committed  suicide  to  avoid  making  the 
awful  decision  to  whom  his  allegiance  was  due,  —his  king  or  his  country.  His 
sons-in-law  and  heirs  joined  the  royalists,  and  left  their  mansions  (near  Amster- 
dam  ;  Guy  Park  is  still  standing),  leading  bands  of  Mohawks  and  Tories  to  the 
British  army.  These  lords  of  the  valley  made  frequent  forays  through  the  settle- 
ments, with  their  Indians  and  the  regiuient  called  "Johnson's  Greens,"  but  their 
lieutenants  were  badly  defeated  at  the  siege  of  Rome  (Fort  Stanwix).  The  Mo- 
liawl^  region  was  utterly  devastated  by  these  fierce  raids,  and  its  inhabitants  were 
scattered.  In  1780  Sir  John  Johnson  led  500  men  against  Tribes'  Hill,  and  com- 
mitted great  devastations ;  but  in  a  second  raid  (in  1781)  the  militia  gathered  with 
5>romptitude  and  de  eated  the  Tory  forces.  The  broad  feudal  domains  of  the 
Tohnsons  were  confiscated  by  Congress,  and  the  valley  was  occupied  by  men  of 
New  England. 

Station,  Ponda  {Fonda  Hotel\  the  capital  of  Montgomery  Connty, 
pleasantly  situated  on  the  Mohawk,  and  occupying  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Indian  village  where  the  Jesuits  were  massacred.  It  was  settled  by  the 
Butch,  and  named  in  honor  of  Douw  Fonda,  and  was  twice  destroyed  by 
Sir  John  Johnson's  marauders. 

A  railway  runs  N.  firom  Fonda  26  M.  to  Northville,  passing  through  Johnsbywn, 
a  populous  village  in  the  Cayadutta  Valley,  and  the  capital  of  Fulton  County 

JM.  N.  W.  of  the  village  is  Johnson  Hall,  the  mansion  erected  by  Sir  Wm. 
ohnson  in  1761,  and  where  he  ruled  in  baronial  state  until  his  self-inflicted 
death  in  1774.  His  son.  Sir  John,  armed  his  Scotch  tenantry  against  the  colonies, 
but  was  taken  prisoner  and  paroled.  The  head-quarters  of  royalism  in  N.  Y.  was 
at  Johnson  Hall  until  a  national  force  advanced  against  it  (1776),  when  the  loyal 
knight  and  his  retainers  fled  through  the  wilderness  to  Canada.  The  last  of 
his  daring  attacks  was  made  in  order  to  recover  the  family  plate,  which  had  been 
buried  at  the  Hall.  In  1781  a  sharp  action  was  fought  here  between  600  Tories  and 
the  American  militi«  The  British  government  repaid  Johnson  for  his  seques- 
trated estates  by  a  grant  of  $300,000  and  a  general's  commission.  Sir  William 
lived  40  years  ii)  these  forests,  and  had  over  100  children.  His  grave  is  near 
the  Johnstown  I/Spiscopal  Church.  GloTemville  is  4  M.  N.  of  Johnstown, 
and  has  6,200  inhabitants,  with  7  churches  and  2  weekly  papers.  It  is  famous  for 
its  glove  manufactories,  and  it  is  claimed  that  more  heavy  gloves  and  mittens  are 
made  hereabouts  than  In  the  remainder  of  the  U.  S.  The  bucl(skins  were  formerly 
brought  from  the  N.  Wilderness,  but  are  now  Imported  from  rerr.ote  States. 
Lake  Pleasant  is  46  M.  N.  of  GloveraviUe  (railroad  to  Northville,  whenco 


i'lij 


164      JiouU  $6, 


SAQEVILLE. 


stages  mn  to  the  Lake,  20  M.,  on  Wednesdays  and  Saturdavs).  The  road  passes 
(1.)  the  Mayfleld  Mts.  and  ascends  the  Sanandaga  Valley,  with  tall  mts.  on  either 
side,  the  country  being  thinly  populated  and  rugged.  At  Pickleville  the  valley  is 
left,  and  the  road  crosses  the  ridges  to  SagevUle  vLake  Pleasant  Hotel,  on  heights 
overlooking  the  lake  and  village),  the  capital  of  Hamilton  County,  a  rocky  and 
sterile  region,  without  railroad  or  newspaper,  and  with  but  2,960  inhabitants  on 
1,745  square  M.  of  area.  SageviUe  is  pleasantly  located  on  an  eminence  between 
Lake  Pleasant  and  Round  Lake,  which  here  closely  approach  each  other.  Lake 
Pleasant  is  4  M.  long  and  1  M.  wide,  and  is  bordered  by  high  hills.  Guides  from 
the  hotels  conduct  to  the  best  llMhing  and  hunting  grounds.  The  Sturgts  House  is 
a  large  summer  hotel,  4  M.  N.  E.  of  SageviUe,  and  near  the  outlet  of  the  lake. 
Bound  Lake  is  just  N.  of  SageviUe,  and  is  U  M.  wide,  with  numerous  capes  and 
Islands.  Hamilton,  Little  Long,  Ox  Bow,  and  other  lal^es  are  near  Sngeville.  16 
M.  N.  by  road  is  Lewev  Lake,  containing  2  square  M.  and  1,711  ft.  high,  with  the 
noble  Snowy  Mt.  near  its  shores  rising  to  a  height  of  8,859  ft.  The  Raquette  Lake 
region  is  visited  trom  SageviUe  by  Jessup's  River,  Indian  and  Blue  Mt.  Lakes  (57 
H.  ;  88  M.  by.  water).  Plseco  Lake  is  8  M.  S.  W.  of  SageviUe  fby  a  road  lead- 
ing along  Ox  Bow  Lake).  It  is  6i  x  11  M.,  and  has  bold  and  picturesque  shores, 
esi>ecialiy  near  the  outlet.  The  Sacandaga  River  and  Oerundegut  Bay  afford  good 
trouting.  At  the  head  of  the  lake  is  the  deserted  hamlet  of  Piseco.  Numerous 
lakes  stud  the  broad  forests  on  every  side,  and  rugged  and  primitive  scenery  is 
everywhere  found. 

The  Garoga  L>akes  and  their  connected  waters  form  the  reservoirs  of  the 
Hohawk,  and  are  reached  by  plank  road  from  Fonda  (18  M.).  The  chief  of  these 
sequestered  lakes  are  the  Stink,  Canada,  Trout,  and  Green  Lakes ;  and  the  forest 
taverns  are  much  frequented  by  sportsmen  in  pursuit  of  the  game  and  fish  which 
here  abound.  Pine  Lake  is  4  M.  long,  and  is  surrounded  by  tall  pine  groves. 
The  E.  Garoga  Lake  is  8  M.  long,  and  is  situated  amid  rugged  scenery. 


Beyond  Fonda  the  main  line  passes  Yost's  and  the  canal-village  of  Yates- 
ville,  and  then  approaches  the  high  hills  called  'ilxb  Noses,  near  which  is 
Mitchell's  Cave,  with  several  rooms  hung  with  stalactites.  Stations, 
Spraker's,  and  Palatine  Bridge,  with  a  bridge  crossing  the  Mohawk  to 
Canajoharie  (Kirby  House),  a  pleasant  village  on  the  S.  bank.  This  dis- 
trict was  settled  by  Palatine  Qermans  in  1713,  and  was  ravaged  by  the 
Tories  during  the  Revolution. 

After  Butler's  raid  on  Port  Plain  In  1780,  when  63  houses  were  destroyed  and 
76  persons  were  kiUed  or  captured,  he  was  attacked  by  the  garrison  of  Stone 
Arabia  (a  hamlet  N.  E.  of  Palatine  Bridge).  At  the  close  of  a  sharp  action  in 
which  tne  assaUants  were  annihUated,  Sir  John  Johnson  led  the  Tories  in  retreat, 
and  repelled  the  militia  of  the  valley  in  a  skirmish  in  St.  JohnsviUe.  The  miUtia 
had  made  a  forced  march  of  50  M.,  and  were  commanded  by  Gen.  Van  Rensselaer, 
but,  becoming  confused  during  a  night  attack  on  Johnson,  thejr  were  withdrawn 
and  the  Tories  escaped.  Sharon  Springs  is  12  M.  S.  of  Palatme  Bridge  and  is 
reached  by  a  daUy  stage,  passing  through  the  rural  villages  of  Cansjohane. 

Station,  Fort  Plain  {Union  Hall),  a  Krge  village  over  which  is  seen 
(r.)  the  Fort  Plain  Seminary.  During  an  attack  upon  this  village  in  1780 
(the  garrison  being  absent)  the  women  dressed  themselves  in  male  attire, 
and  manned  the  walls  so  effectually  that  the  enemy  withdrew  in  alarm. 
3  M.  from  Fort  Plain  is  the  ancient  Lutheran  Church,  which  was  endowed 
by  the  Nellis  family  in  1770.  4  M.  S.,  on  a  narrow  peninsula,  are  fortifi- 
cations of  the  ancient  mound-builders;  and  the  hill  ^  M.  N.  W.  of  the 
village  was  the  site  of  Fort  Plain,  a  government  post  which  was  erected 


y 


LITTLE  FALLS. 


RouUte.      165 


road  pMses 
18.  on  either 
the  valley  !• 
1.  on  heights 
a  rocky  and 
labitants  on 
nee  between 
(ther.    Lake 
Guides  from 
rgis  House  Is 
of  the  lake, 
us  capes  and 
Ingeville.    16 
Igh,  with  the 
aquette  Lake 
Ht.  Lakes  (57 
a  road  lead- 
esque  shores. 
,y  afford  good 
I.    Numerous 
ive  scenery  Is 

jrvolrs  of  the 
chief  of  these 
ind  the  forest 
md  fish  which 
i  pine  groves, 
jry. 


age  of  Yates- 

^ear  which  is 

Stations, 

Mohawk  to 

k.    This  dis- 

vaged  by  the 


s. 


destroyed  and 
rlson  of  Stone 
harp  action  In 
rles  In  retreat, 
J.  The  mllltla 
an  Rensselaer, 
ere  withdrawn 
Bridge  and  is 
johane. 

which  is  seen 
illageinl780 

male  attire, 
jw  in  alarm, 
was  endowed 
la,  are  fortifi- 
|n.  W.  of  the 

was  erected 


by  a  French  engineer  and  was  the  strongest  fort  in  the  valley.  Station, 
St.  JohnsvilU,  named  from  the  ancient  Church  of  St.  John,  the  site  of  the 
Revolutionary  Forts  House  and  Hill.  Near  this  place,  after  the  battle  of 
Stone  Arabia,  the  Tories  repulsed  the  valley  militia  under  Van  Rensselaer. 
East  Creek  is  near  the  mouth  of  E.  Canada  Creek,  which  is  crossed  by  au 
iron  bridge  200  ft.  long.  The  train  now  passes  along  the  Manheim  inter- 
vales, with  the  Danube  hills  across  the  river.  At  Indian  Castle  (1. )  Sir 
Wm.  Johnson  built  a  mission  church  in  1768;  and  the  celebrated  Mohawk 
chiefs  Brant  and  King  Heudrick,  and  tlie  American  General  Herki- 
mer (mortally  wounded  at  Oriskany)  resided  in  Danube.  Herkimer's 
(Erghemar)  mansion,  built  of  imported  brick  in  1763,  is  still  standing. 
Little  Falls  {Benton  House  ;  Jlinchinan's)  is  a  busy  manufacturing  vil- 
lage situated  in  the  narrow  gorge  of  the  Mohawk.  Its  houses  are  built 
on  the  steep  declivities  to  the  N. ;  and  the  margin  of  the  falling  river  ia 
lined  with  factories.  The  river  here  breaks  through  a  ridge  6-600  ft. 
high,  which  is  thought  to  have  been  the  E.  shore  of  a  great  lake  reaching 
to  Ontario  until  various  erosive  agencies  cut  through  the  barrier  and 
drained  the  basin  by  au  outlet  through  the  Mohawk  Valley.  Little  Falls 
is  the  market-town  of  Herkimer  County,  famous  for  its  rich  cheese,  and 
in  1868-69,  213,707  cheeses,  weighing  6,873  tons,  were  shipped  from  this 
point.  Monday  is  the  market-day,  when  farmers  from  the  fertile  pastur- 
age-lands of  Herkimer  throng  the  streets.  The  liver  falls  45  ft.  in  ^  M., 
affording  a  fine  water-power;  and  the  bold  rocky  bills  tower  on  either 
side  and  are  pierced  with  many  small  caverns.  Richfield  Springs  is  12  M. 
S.  W.  of  Little  Falls.  Station,  Herkimer,  a  prominent  point  for  the 
shipment  of  cheese  and  the  capital  of  Herkimer  County  (settled  by  the 
Palatinates  in  1722).  Near  the  Court  House,  on  the  point  of  Stone 
Ridge,  stood  Fort  Dayton,  a  prominent  frontier  post  during  the  troublous 
days  of  the  devolution.  A  bridge  crosses  the  river  to  the  village  of  Mo- 
hawk, whence  horse-cars  run  to  Ilion.  2  M.  from  Herkimer  the  train 
stops  at  Ilion,  a  place  of  3,876  inhabitants,  with  4  churches,  a  bank,  and 
2  weekly  papers.  The  village  is  S.  of  the  river,  and  its  reason  for  being 
is  the  Remington  rifle-factory,  with  long  ranges  of  buildings,  where  1,000 
men  are  employed.  The  capacity  of  the  works  is  800  rifles  and  many 
small-arms  daily;  and  several  remote  and  warlike  nations  have  drawn 
their  armaments  from  this  peaceful  village. 

Over  700,000  breech-loading  rifles  have  been  made  here,  including  50,000  for  the 
U.  S.,  60.000  for  Egypt,  10,000  for  Rome,  3,000  for  Japan,  42,000  for  Denmark, 
80,000  for  Sweden,  and  75,000  for  Spain.  During  7  months  of  the  Franco-Prussian 
War,  the  works  ran  night  and  day.  and  made  155,000  rifles  for  France.  Costa 
Rica  and  several  S.  American  Republics  have  drawn  their  armaments  from  Ilion. 
Large  quantities  of  agricultural  implements  are  made  here ;  also  sewing-machines 
and  cotton-gins.  The  village  society  was  made  lively  during  the  winter  of  1873-74 
by  the  residence  here  of  several  officers  of  the  Spanish  Republic,  who  were  super> 
intending  the  preparation  of  armaments  to  be  used  against  Carlos  and  Cartagena. 


I 


II  III 


:,! 


'1 


166     JR(mU96, 


UTICA. 


Beyond  Frankfort  (whence  850,000  pounds  of  cheese  are  sent  yearly) 
the  train  crosses  the  Mohawk  River  on  an  iron  bridge,  and  enters  the  city 
of 

Utioft. 

HotolSt— 'Butterfleld  House,  $8-4  a  day,  Genesee  St.  :  Baggs'  Hotel,  near 
the  siation:  American  ;  Dudley,  92.  Horiie-<;ara  run  ft-om  the  station  out  on 
Genesee  Ht.  to  New  Hartford  ;  to  the  Lunatic  Asylum  and  Whitesboro' ;  on  Deer- 
field  Hi  ;  and  on  Bleecker  8t.  Railroads  to  the  St.  Lawrence  River ;  to  Clinton 
and  Norwich  ;  and  to  Binghamton  (9*^  M.  S.  W.).  The  favorite  excursions  from 
Utica  are  to  Trenton  Falls  (see  page  153),  17  M.  N. ;  and  to  the  Richfield  Springs, 
84M.S. 

Utioa  is  nearly  in  the  centre  of  N.  Y.  State,  and  is  situated  on  a  broad 
plain  S.  of  the  Mohawk  River.  It  has  about  88,000  inhabitants,  with  84 
churches,  7  banks,  2  daily  and  several  weekly  papers.  There  are  17  pub- 
lic schools,  with  4,600  pupils.  The  Welsh  population  has  4  churches,  an 
jBisteddfod,  a  weekly  paper  (Y  Drych)  and  the  magazine  Y  CyfaiU  o'r 
Hen  Wlad ;  and  there  are  6  Qerman  churches,  with  3  schools  and  12 
fraternities.  The  city  water- works  cost  9400,000;  and  the  fire  depart- 
ment has  10  companies.  Utica  derives  its  importance  from  being  the 
market  for  rich  and  extensive  rural  districts,  from  which  several  railroads 
converge  on  this  point.  Here  also  the  Erie  Canal  is  met  by  the  Clienango 
Canal,  which  runs  S.  97  M.  through  the  Oriskany  and  Chenango  Valleys 
to  Binghamton  (and  is  being  extended  to  meet  the  Penn.  canal  system  at 
Athens).  It  was  built  in  1833  -37  at  a  cost  of  $  2,782,124,  and  has  116 
rubble-stone  locks,  overcoming  an  ascent  of  706  ft.  and  a  subsequent  de- 
licent  of  303  ft.  Genesee  St.  is  the  main  thoroughfare  of  Utica.  It  runs 
from  the  R.  R.  station  across  the  canal  and  by  several  neat  churches,  then 
passes  long  lines  of  villas  and  is  prolonged  into  the  open  country.  The 
City  Hall  is  on  Genesee  St.  and  is  a  spacious  building  of  cream-colored 
brick,  partly  owned  by  the  U.  S.  The  Academy  of  the  Assumption  is  on 
John  St.  ;  and  the  old  and  well-known  Utica  Female  Academy  is  on 
Genesee  St.  (comer  of  Washington).  The  ^ate  Lunatic  Asylum,  is  a 
large  and  imposing  building  situated  on  a  farm  of  130  acres  in  the  W.  of 
the  city.  It  was  opened  in  1843,  and  has  always  occupied  a  high  rank 
among  the  institutions  devoted  to  the  care  of  the  insane. 

The  rise  of  Utica  is  of  recent  date,  and  it  occupies  the  site  of  Fort  Schuyler 
(built  in  1756).  The  convergence  here  of  highways,  railroads,  and  canals  has 
greatly  facilitated  its  progress,  and  large  and  lucrative  manufactures  have  been 
located  in  the  city.  There  are  many  workers  in  iron,  brass,  silver,  marble,  stained 
glass,  cotton,  and  woollen  :  with  manufactoi'ies  also  of  shoes,  cigars,  carriages, 
telegraphic  instruments,  organs,  and  head-lights. 

The  line  now  proceeds  N.  W.  through  that  fertile  valley  which  forms 
the  lowest  of  the  passes  through  the  great  Appalachian  chain  of  mts.,  and 
which  was  formerly  a  favorite  Indian  trail  to  the  lakes.    Passing  the  sta- 


BOM& 


Rouute,    167 


mi  yearly) 
m  the  city 


Hotel,  near 
itlon  out  on 
o' ;  on  Deer- 
;  to  Clinton 
inlone  from 
leld  Bprlngf , 

,  on  a  broad 
ats,  with  34 
are  17  pob- 
shnrches,  an 
■  Cvfaill  o'r 
cols  and  12 
fire  depart- 
n  being  the 
iral  railroads 
he  Clienango 
ango  Valleys 
al  system  at 
and  has  US 
bsequent  de- 
ica.    It  runs 
mrches,  then 
,untry.    The 
ream-colored 
mption  is  on 
ademy  is  on 
Aaylum  is  a 
In  the  W.  of 
a  high  rank 


Port  Schuyler 
nd  canals  has 
[res  have  been 
parble,  stained 
^rs,  carriages. 


which  forms 

of  mts.,and 

ssing  the  sta* 


tlonf  of  Whiteiboro'  and  Oriakany,  in  14  M.  firom  Utloa  the  train  enton 

the  city  of  _ 

Borne. 

(Slanwix  Hall,  1 8  a  day ;  American.)  The  population  is  11,000,  and 
it  has  somewhat  of  the  cosmopolitan  character  of  its  majestic  Italian  name- 
sake, since  of  its  14  churches  2  are  Welsh,  2  German,  and  1  Irish.  Large 
rolling-mills  and  R.  R.  shops  are  located  here;  and  a  prosperous  country 
trade  is  carried  on.  3  weekly  papers  are  published,  of  which  The  Roman 
Citixen  is  the  most  prominent.  The  eastern  Rome  was  the  capital  of  the 
civilized  world;  the  western  Rome  is  a  semi-capital  of  Oneida  County, 
and,  in  default  of  the  armaments  of  the  imperial  legions,  has  a  small  U. 
8.  arsenal.  The  Erie  Canal  was  commenced  in  1817  at  this  point,  and 
20  years  later  the  Black  River  Canal  was  made  from  Rome  to  Lyons* 
Falls,  connecting  with  navigable  waters  to  the  N.  It  ascends  from  Rome 
to  the  summit  by  70  locks  (693  ft  rise),  whence  it  descends  386  ft  in  36 
locks.  The  canal  is  35  M.  long,  and  cost  $3,225,000.  The  Romans  ex- 
pect a  future  goldeu  age  from  the  convergence  on  their  city  of  the  N.  T. 
Central  R.  R.,  the  Rome,  Watertown,  and  Ogdensburg  R.  R.  (Route  25), 
and  the  Rome  Division  of  the  N.  Y.  k  0.  Midland  R.  R. 

The  Indian  portage  called  Deowainsta  was  on  the  site  of  Rome,  and  was  an  Im* 
portant  strat^io  point  in  the  colonial  days.  A  level  "  carry "  of  1^  M.  here 
separated  the  navigable  waters  of  the  Mohawlc  (flowing  into  the  Hudson)  and  Wood 
Creek  (flowing  into  Lalce  Ontario).  At  an  early  date  5  colonial  farts  were  erected 
in  this  vicinity,  and  in  1750  Fort  Bull  was  taken  by  M.  de  Lery  with  a  Franco- 
Indian  force  of  362  men,  flora  Ogdeusburgh.  A  large  amount  of  stores  was  de- 
stroyed, and  60  men  of  the  garriDon  were  put  to  the  sword.  In  1766,  after  the 
f^nch  hod  taken  Oswego,  this  whole  district  was  abandoned,  but  in  1758  a  pow- 
erful work  called  Fort  StMtwIx  (costing  $  300,000)  was  built  on  the  site  of 
Borne.  It  was  evacuated  after  the  Conquest  of  Canada,  and  was  reoccupied  by 
the  3d  N.  Y.  regiment  (700  men)  in  April,  1777.  Later  in  the  year  it  was  be- 
leaguered by  a  detachment  of  1,700  men  flrom  Burgoyne's  army,  imder  8t  Leger 
and  the  Indian  chief  Brant.  The  militia  of  the  county  gathered  quickly,  and 
were  being  led  to  the  relief  of  the  fort  when  theywere  ambuscaded  near  Oriskany, 
and  were  hemmed  in  by  overpowering  forces.  The  militia  formed  a  hollow  circle 
and  fought  desperately  for  6  hours,  losing  their  chief,  Oen.  Herkimer,  and  160 
men,  but  finally  repelling  the  enemy.  During  this  action,  a  sortie  from  the  fort 
had  swept  through  the  hostile  camps  with  fatal  effect  Bt  L^[er  now  began  a 
formal  siege  of  the  American  works,  and  his  parallels  were  within  160  yards  of  the 
ramparts  when  tidings  came  that  strong  relief  parties  under  Arnold  were  hurnring 
up  the  Mohawk  Valley.  The  British  army  broke  up  in  flight  leaving  tents,  bag- 
gage, artillery,  and  hospitals  behind. 

The  line  runs  S.  W.  from  Rome,  and  passes  Green's  Comers  and  Verona. 
E.  of  the  latter  station  are  Verona  Springs  (water-cure  hotel),  whose  waters 
contain  720  grains  of  muriate  of  soda  in  each  gallon,  and  are  saturated 
with  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas,  resembling  the  English  Harrowgate 
Springs.  To  the  S.,  in  the  town  of  Vernon,  lives  the  remnant  of  the 
ancient  Indian  nation  of  the  Oneidas,  the  former  owners  of  all  this  land 
for  many  leagues.  Station,  Oneida  {Eagle  Hotel;  National),  a  village 
with  nearly  4,000  inhabitants,  at  the  crossing  of  the  N.  Y.  and  Osw^^ 


if  1 


''Is  li 


168    JHouu  ge. 


SYBACUSB. 


Midland  B.  B.  (see  Route  32).  The  line  now  nms  parallel  with  Cieida 
Lake,  but  6  -  8  M.  S.  of  it.  Station,  Caiiasiotaj  celebrated  for  its  manu^ 
factory  of  astronomical  and  philosophical  instruments.  The  Cazenovia 
and  Canastota  B.  B.  runs  S.  W.  by  Perryville  and  Ghittenango  Falls  to 
Cazenovia  (15  M.),  where  it  intersects  the  Syracuse  and  Chenango  Valley 
B.  B.  Passing  Canaseraga  station  (2  M.  N.  of  the  village),  the  train 
reaches  Chittenango  (*  White  Sulphur  Springa  Hotel),  situated  in  the 
narrow  valley  of  the  outlet  of  the  Cazenovia  Lake.  This  village  is  cele- 
brated for  its  magnesia  and  sulphur  springs,  which  are  held  to  be  effi- 
cacious in  diseases  of  the  skin,  liver,  and  stomach.  The  waters  are 
charged  with  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  and  resemble  the  Fauquier  White 
Sulphur  Springs  in  Virginia.  They  flow  from  a  ledge  of  rocks  1  M.  S.  of 
the  village,  and  the  vicinity  is  attractively  adorned.  Ohittenango  is  not 
a  fashionable  resort,  but  is  visited  annually  by  ^iiany  invalids,  who  use 
the  medicinal  waters  with  great  benefit.  Besides  the  hotels,  there  are 
several  cottages  for  summer  residents,  neav  the  waters.  The  once  famous 
Yates  Spring  is  now  but  little  used.  From  a  hill  in  this  vicinity  is  ob- 
tained a  pleasing  view  of  the  Oneida  and  Cazenovia  Lakes,  and  the  inter- 
vening country,  and  2  -  3  M.  above  the  springs  the  Chittenango  Creek  falls 
136  ft.  perpendicularly  over  a  limestone  cliflF.  At  Perryville,  2-3  M.  E. 
of  the  springs,  the  Canaseraga  Creek  has  a  waterfall  130  ft.  high. 

Stations,  Kirkville,  and  Manlius,  a  pleasant  village  near  the  once 
favorite  Elk  Horn  Springs  (1  M.  N.;  sulphuretted  hydrogen).  Other 
mineral  waters  are  found  here,  and  on  Limestone  Creek  (to  the  S.)  is  a 
waterfall  100  ft.  high.  Near  Manlius  are  the  Green  Lakes^  of  which  Lake 
Sodom  is  the  chief,  and  is  ^  M.  across  and  156  ft.  deep.  "  The  bottom 
is  a  grass-green  slate;  the  sides  white  shell  marl;  and  the  brim  black 
vegetable  i^ould;  the  waters  perfectly  limpid.  The  whole  appears  to  the 
eye  like  a  rich  porcelain  bowl,  filled  with  limpid  nectar.  But  to  the  taste 
it  is  the  Harrowgate  water.  The  waters  contain  much  sulphate  of  lime 
and  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas."  (Prof.  Silliman.)  These  singular 
pools  are  in  deep  chasms  in  the  limestone,  and  waterless  fissures;  in  the 
vicinity  retain  ice  until  far  into  the  summer.  The  Deep  Spring  is  a  sub- 
terranean stream  £.  of  Manlius.  Valuable  quarries  of  lime  and  gypsum 
are  worked  in  this  town. 

Syraonie. 

Hotelg.  — *Globe  Hotel,  near  the  R.  R  track,  1 8.50 ;  Vanderbilt  House ;  Em- 
pire ;  St.  Charles. 

Keadlns-Booma.  —  Central  Library,  High  School  building ;  Franklin  In- 
stitute .  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  13  S.  Salina  St. ;  Catholic  Toung  Men's  Assoc,  9  Lamed 
Building.  Post-Office  in  Bastable  Block,  E.  Genesee  St.  Amuaementa  at  the  Opera 
House,  E.  Genesee  St. 

HoTse-Cara  to  Oakwood  Cemetery  (2  M.),  Onondaga  Hollow  (4  M.).  Oeddes 
(2  M.),  and  Brighton  Comer,  on  Salina,  Fayette,  James,  Green,  E.  Genesee,  and 
Lodi  Sts.  Stagti  to  Cicero,  Euclid,  Pompey  Hill,  Central  Square,  Navariuo,  and 
Cardiff. 


SYRACUSE. 


Route  te.      169 


Ballroada.— The  Synumse  Northern,  to  Sandy  Creek  (and  Ogdensburg) 
to  Oran  and  Tunnel ;  to  Binghamton,  80  M. :  to  Oswego,  35  M.  (see  Route  Z6). 

Stbacusb,  the  "  Central  City,"  is  situated  on  level  ground  S.  cf  Onon- 
daga Lake,  and  is  midway  between  Albany  and  Buffalo.  It  has  54,122 
inhabitants,  9  banks,  3  daily  papers,  40  churches,  and  2  convents  (Fran- 
ciscan and  St.  Anthony's) ;  and  is  the  seat  of  largo  and  varied  manufactures, 
deriving  a^so  much  importance  from  being  a  focus  of  R.  R  lines.  It  has 
several  £~')  halls,  and,  from  its  central  position,  has  become  well  known 
as  the  gathering-place  of  political  and  religious  conventions.  The  streets 
are  broad  and  level,  and  generally  cross  each  other  at  right  angles;  while 
the  heights  in  the  S.  E.  are  being  adorned  with  villas  and  rural  streets, 
and  the  surrounding  country  is  rich  and  fertile.  The  public  schools  have 
150  teachers,  and  7,738  pupils.  The  Court  House  of  Onondaga  County  is 
near  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  is  a  handsome  structure  of  local  limestone. 
On  a  hill  1  M.  N.  E.  is  the  Penitentiary,  with  accommodations  for  nearly 
900  convicts;  and  other  charitable  and  correctional  departments  occupy 
large  buildings  in  the  vicinity.  The  3  Orphan  Asylums,  the  State  Asylum 
for  Idiots  (on  a  hill  in  Geddes),  and  the  High  School  are  fine  buildings; 
so  is  also  the  City  Hall,  on  Washington  St.  St.  Vincent's  Asylum  is  a 
striking  edifice  (on  Madison  St.),  and  the  business  blocks  of  Bastable, 
Granger,  Larned,  and  Ritchie  are  locally  much  esteemed.  The  *  Syraouse 
University  is  situated  on  the  heights  to  the  S.,  and  has  a  new  and  costly 
building.  The  University  was  founded  in  1870,  is  under  the  Methodist 
Church,  and  has  ample  endowments.  The  Hall  of  Languages  was  com- 
pleted in  1873,  and  other  buildings  are  to  be  erected  on  the  50  acres  of 
the  campus.  There  are  18  professorships  and  108  students.  Connected 
with  the  University  is  a  College  of  the  Arts,  divided  into  the  two  schools 
of  architecture  and  painting,  where  4  years  are  devoted  to  aesthetics,  the 
modem  languages,  and  the  theory,  practice,  and  history  of  art  (15  pro- 
fessors). The  view  from  the  Hall  of  Languages  embraces  the  city  and  its 
suburbs  and  the  long  Onondaga  Lake.  Near  this  point,  and  seen  from  all 
parts  of  the  valley,  is  Renioick  Vaatle^  an  imposing  mansion  in  mediaeval 
castellated  architecture,  and  surrounded  by  fine  trees,  over  which  its  gray 
towers  are  seen. 

The  Salt  Springs  are  N.  W.  of  Syracuse,  near  the  shores  of  Onondaga  Lake, 
and  have  been  used  for  centuries.  The  State  took  control  of  them  in  1797,  since 
which  time  about  230,000,000  bushels  of  salt  have  been  made.  35  g^ons  of  water 
yield  1  bushel  There  are  24  wells  (160-417  ft.  deep),  emplo3ring  6,000  laborers, 
equipped  with  over  40,000  solar  vats  (covering  730  acres)  and  15-20,000  kettles. 
200,000  tons  of  coal  are  used  annually,  and  8-9,000,000  bushels  of  salt  are  made, 
yieldmg  the  State  (from  a  tax  of  Ic.  a  gallon)  a  net  revenue  of  9  30 -40,000.  It  Is 
thought  that  the  brine  comes  from  vast  subterranean  deposits  of  rock-salt.  The 
solar  vats  are  16  by  18  ft.,  very  shallow,  arranged  in  groups  of  3,  protected  by 
covers  in  rainy  weather,  and  each  yields  60  bushels  during  the  season.  The  pro- 
duct of  these  spr«.ng.s  for  the  last  80  years  would  make  4  pyramids,  each  as  large 
as  the  great  pyramid  of  Egypt  The  processes  of  evaporation  and  ^e  solar  works 
are  worthy  of  inspection  (horse-cars  from  Genesee  St). 

8 


li 


170    Rouuee. 


ONONDAOA  LAKE. 


Ommdngm  I«k«  is  6  M.  long,  1}  M.  wide,  and  S61  ft.  above  fhe  aea.    It  la 

the  remnant  of  a  vast  basin,  and  on  its  shores  are  found  samphire  and  other 
marine  plants.  Small  steamers  ply  between  Syracuse  and  Phoenix,  on  the  Oswego 
Biver.  In  this  vioinity  were  the  council  centres  and  chief  villages  of  the  Onon- 
daga Indians,  a  laige  mbe  of  the  Six  Nations,  or  Iroquois  Confederacy.  While 
^e  Mohawks  and  Senecas  were  the  most  warlike  of  the  tribes,  the  Onondagas 
were  the  conservators  and  guardians  of  the  religious  Htes  and  shrines,  and  were 
the  Levites  of  the  Confederacv.  The  Jesuits  failed  in  several  attempts  to  fouiid 
missions  here,  and  English  colonization  only  began  after  1780. 

Near  Liverpool,  on  the  E.  shore,  was  the  chief  tribal  fortress.  <fonsisting  of  4 
bastioned  lines  of  palisades,  SO  ft.  high,  provided  with  inner  galleries  and  water- 
pipes  to  put  out  fires.  Oct.  10  '  016,  this  stronghold  was  attacked  by  Champlain, 
with  all  the  warriors  of  the  Iiaron  nation.  He  had  a  movable  tower  built  and 
advanced  to  the  palisades  by  200  men,  while  the  musketeers  cleared  the  wallii. 
The  Hurons  then  dashed  in  with  firebrands,  but  were  repulsed  disastoously,  and 
the  palisades  were  flooded  with  water.  Showers  of  arrows  were  shot  firom  the 
fortress  walls ;  and  after  a  pell-mell  fight,  which  lasted  8  hrs.,  amid  a  honibl? 
din,  the  dauntless  Onondagas  finally  overcame  the  Franco^Huron  invaders,  and 
drove  them  into  a  rapid  retreat.  The  fort  was  taken  by  the  Count  de  Fronttnac 
in  1690.  In  1668  colonies  of  Frenchmen  and  Spaniards  settled  in  this  vicii  ity 
(near  Pompey) ;  but  the  Onondagas,  Oneidas,  and  Cayugas  united  their  forc<«, 
and  fell  upon  the  Eiuopeans  on  All  Saints'  Day,  1659.  The  unfortunate  Lat'AS 
were  utterly  exterminated.  It  is  held  that  Spaniards  visited  this  locality  shorUy 
after  the  year  1500 ;  and  a  sepulchral  stone  has  been  exhumed  at  Pompey  HiU, 
bearing  Christian  emblems,  a  Latin  inscription,  and  the  date  1520.    Some  distin- 

filished  antiquarians  advance  the  theory  that  De  Soto,  the  discoverer  Of  the 
ississippi,  visited  Onondaga  about  the  year  1540 ;  that  this  was  his  "  silver- 
bottomed  lake"  (glittering  with  crystals  of  salt);  and  ^'lat  the  land  of  iSo- 
gueeAama,  where  he  experienced  such  intense  cola,  wa?  t-  .  -^quehanna  region 
of  Central  New  York. 

The  semi-civilized  tribe  of  the  Onondagas  is  now  locate^  .^servation  about 

6  M.  S.  of  Syracuse,  and  numbers  about  400  souls.  Late  in  1873  a  sharp  dissension 
arose  among  them  about  the  chieftaincy  of  the  tribe.  The  squaws  favored  one 
candidate,  and  an  Oneida  chief  installed  another,  whereupon  the  contested  honor 
was  referred  to  the  grand  council  of  the  Six  Nations. 

The  ancient  highway  from  Albany  to  Buffalo  followed  the  course  of  the  present 
yiUa-lined  W.  Genesee  St  In  1805  the  first  house  was  built  on  t\\i  site  of  Syra- 
cuse, although  settlements  had  been  made  at  Salina  about  1787.  The  Indians 
■old  out  in  1788,  but  settlement  was  delayed  on  account  of  the  unhealthyclimate, 
which,  however,  became  salubrious  when  ihe  forests  were  removed.  When  the 
Erie  Canal  was  finished  to  this  point  (1825)  there  were  800  inhabitants  in  Syra- 
cuse ;  in  1855  there  were  25,107 ;  and  in  1872  there  were  54,122. 


.  From  Syracuse  to  Rochester  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  has  2  lines,  —the  "  New 
Route,"  following  the  course  of  the  Erie  Canal,  and  reaching  Rochester  in  81  M. ; 
and  the  "  Old  Route,"  bending  S.  through  the  lake  count^,  and  traversing  102 
M.  between  the  cities.  The  through  trains  pass  over  the  former  line ;  the  Old 
Itoute  is  described  in  Route  20. 

The  train  passes  N.  W.  from  Syracuse  across  the  town  ot  Gkddes,  and 
the  salt-works  and  Onondaga  Lake  are  seen  on  the  r.  Stations,  Memphis, 
and  Jordan,  a  factory  and  canal  village  S.  of  Cross  Lake.  At  Weedsport 
fhe  line  crosses  the  Southern  Central  R.  B.  Station,  Port  Byron  (1  M. 
N.  of  fhe  village),  beyond  which  the  train  traverses  the  Montezuma 
Marshes  and  crosses  fhe  Seneca  Biver  near  the  Great  Bend.  On  the  1. 
are  1,900  acres  of  raarsh,  producing  long  coarse  grass,  and  giving  name  to 
the  town  and  station  of  Savannah,  if  ear  the  populous  village  of  Clyde 
the  train  passes  extensive  plantations  of  peppermint.  Thousands  of  acres 
in  Wayne  County  are  given  to  this  crop,  and  ^  of  the  mint  used  In  the  U.  S. 


ove  the  wn.    It  ia 

mpbite  and  other 
lix,  on  the  Osw^[o 
lages  of  the  Onon- 
nfedenoy.  While 
38,  the  Ctaiondagas 
shrines,  and  were 
attempts  to  found 

BS.  (fonsisting  of  4 
illeries  and  water- 
(ed  by  Champlain, 
>le  tower  built  and 
cleared  the  wallit. 
i  disastrously,  and 
ere  shot  firom  the 
I.,  amid  a  horrible 
iron  invaders,  and 
ount  de  Frontt  nac 
ed  in  this  vioiiity 
Dited  their  forc<«, 
infortunate  Latins 
his  locality  shortly 
1  at  Pompty  Hiu, 
520.  Somedistin- 
discoverer  Of  the 
I  was  his  "silver- 
b  the  land  of  So- 
J  ^uehanna  region 

reservation  about 
a  sharp  dissension 
luaws  favored  one 
le  contested  honor 

irseof  the  present 
thi  site  of  Syra- 
.787.  The  Indians 
tnhealthy  climate, 
(loved.  When  the 
habitants  in  Syra- 


Ines,— the  "New 
ochester  in  81  M. ; 
ind  traversing  102 
ner  line ;  the  Old 

ot  Geddes,  and 
itions,  Memphis, 
At  Weedsport 
*ort  Byron  (1  M. 
the  Montezuma 
«nd.  On  the  I. 
i  giving  name  to 
^illnge  of  Clyde 
loosands  of  acres 
ased  in  the  U.  S. 


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ROCETESTER. 


RouUte,      171 


Is  raised  here.  The  second  and  third  years'  crops  are  cut  and  distilled, 
yielding  20-25  pounds  of  oil  to  the  acre  ($  2  •  5  a  pound).  60c.  a  pound 
is  charged  for  distilling  tho  oil,  which  is  sent  to  market  in  1-pound  bottles. 
The  line  now  follows  the  Erie  Canal  to  Lyoni  (Congress  Hall),  the  capital 
of  Wayne  County,  and  a  neat  and  pleasant  village.  It  has  8,S50  inhabi- 
tants, 7  churches,  2  weekly  papers,  3  banks,  several  factories,  and  20 
peppermint  distilleries.  From  Lyons  there  were  shipped,  in  1870, 100,000 
pounds  of  peppermint  oil,  75,000  bbls.  of  apples,  600,000  pounds  of  to- 
bacco,  3,000  bbls.  of  cider,  and  3,000  baskets  of  cherries,  besides  large 
quantities  of  grain.  Wayne  is  also  probably  the  foremost  county  in  the 
Union  in  the  production  of  dried  fruits,  for  whose  manipulation  ingenious 
machinery  is  used.  The  Court  House  is  a  fine  stone  building  with  a  large 
d  ;me  and  an  Ionic  portico.  Pilgrim  Port,  2  M.  N.  R  of  Lyons,  has  been 
occupied  successively  by  the  Shakers,  the  Mormons,  and  the  Oneida  Com- 
munists. The  train  next  enters  Arcadia  (township),  and  stops  at  Newark, 
a  village  where  2,248  inhabitants  support  11  churches  of  as  many  different 
sects.  At  this  point  the  Central  B.  R.  crosses  the  Sodus  Point  and  South- 
em  R.  R.,  which  ezteuds  34  M.  from  Qorham  (on  the  N.  Central  R.  R.)to 
Lake  Ontario. 

Near  Palmyra,  Joe  Smith  claimed  to  have  found  the  golden  plates  of  the 
Monnoa  Bible  buried  in  a  hillside,  while  under  the  guidance  of  angels.  He 
formed  a  new  religious  sect,  and  led  his  proselytes  to  Nauvoo,  111.,  where  he 
amassed  great  wealth,  and  arrogated  to  himself  the  title  of  "  President  of  the 
Church  of  the  Latter  Day  Saints."  After  many  lawless  acts  he  was  conflned  in 
the  county  prison  at  Carthago,  where  (in  1844)  he  was  killed  by  the  citizens.  In 
1847  Brigham  Young  led  tlie  Mormons  across  the  trackless  Western  plains,  and 
founded  Salt  Lake  City,  in  Utah  Territory.  The  sect  is  still  on  the  increase,  and 
has  converted  the  district  S.  of  Salt  Lake  into  a  rich  agricultural  land.  Spiritual- 
ism (or  spiritism)  also  dates  its  origin  fi^m  the  ancient  domain  of  the  sacerdotal 
and  superstitious  Onondagaa  ;  and  its  first  "  rap"  was  heard  by  the  Fox  family, 
March  31,  1849,  at  Hydesville,  7  M.  ft'om  Palmyra.  The  austere  and  sancti- 
monious Christian  sect  called  the  Free  Methodists  hold  their  camp-meetings  near 
Palmyra. 

After  leaving  Palmyra  the  line  runs  parallel  with  the  Erie  Canal,  passes 
the  busy  little  factory-villages  of  Macedon,  Fairport,  and  Brighton,  crosses 
the  Genesee  River,  and  enteni  the  city  of 

Boohester. 

Hotels.— *Osbum  House,  $4  a  day.  Main  St.:  Brackett  Hotel,  Concrefis 
Hall,  Reed's,  —  all  near  tlie  R.  R.atation ;  Clinton  House,  Exchange  St. ;  Whit- 
coinb  House,  corner  Main  and  Canton  Sts. ;  Wood's ;  Waverley. 

Antusementa  at  the  Opera  House,  St.  Paul  St.,  near  the  Osbum  House; 
and  at  Corinthian  Ilali.  R&iding-Rooma  at  the  Athenseuni,  W.  Maiu  St  Fott- 
Qffice  in  the  Arcade,  W.  Main  St 

Horge-Cara  on  Main,  W.  Main,  Alexander,  Monroe,  St.  Pan!,  Clinton,  Ex- 
chatiKe,  and  State  Sts.,  to  the  University,  Mt  Hope  Cemetery,  )^t  Mary's  Hoftpi- 
til,  Lake  Avenue,  and  Brighton.  Omnibuses  firom  comer  State  and  W.  Main  Sts; 
to  city  line  at  East  Ave.  half-hourly ;  to  the  toll-gate,  8  times  daily ;  from  the 
Arcade  to  N.  St.  Paul  St ;  flrom  S.  St  Paul  St  to  South  Ave.  Stages  daily  to 
Greece,  Penfleld,  Webster,  and  Ontario ;  tri-weekly  to  Scottsville,  Henrietta,  and 
Rush :  semi-weekly  to  Honeoye  Falls. 


172    itouute. 


ROCHESTER. 


Ballroadt*— Rochester  Div.  Brie  Railway,  to  Corning,  96  IC. ;  Charlotte 
Branch,  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  to  Charlotte,  7  H. ;  N.  T.  Central  R.  R.  to  Suepen- 
■ion  Bridge,  and  to  Buffalo ;  also  the  Old  and  New  Routes  to  Syracuse.  Steamen 
from  Charlotte  to  the  ports  on  Lake  Ontario. 

Rochester  is  a  handsome  modem  city,  favorably  sitnated  on  both 
sides  of  the  Genesee  River  at  the  falls,  and  7  M.  from  Lake  Ontario.  It  has 
62,386  inhabitants  (in  1870),  with  an  assessed  valuation  of  $  14,067,275 
(^  of  its  real  valuation).  There  are  56  churches  (8  German,  1  French, 
10  Cath.,  8  Pres.,  8  Meth.,  7  Epis.) ;  19  schools,  with  10,585  pupils  ;  and 
9  Catholic  schools  and  3  convents,  with  2,770  pupils.  There  are  6  banks, 
5  daily  papers  (2  German),  7  weeklies,  and  3  monthlies.  The  manu< 
factures  are  extensive  and  various;  and  Rochester  claims  pre-eminence 
among  the  cities  of  the  world  for  its  flour-mills  and  its  nursery  trade. 
Along  the  immense  water-power  of  the  Genesee  Falls  are  place;!  30  flour- 
millf).  with  an  annual  capacity  of  1,000,000  barrels,  and  from  this  great 
pro<luct  Rochester  takes  the  name  of  the  ''Flour  City."  .  The  immense 
*  nurseries  in  this  vicinity  (the  lai^gest  of  which  contains  1,000  acres)  are 
well  worthy  of  a  visit  (in  the  spring  or  fall),  since  here  may  be  seen  the 
finest  landscape  gardening,  with  broad  masses  of  brilliant  flowers,  orna- 
mental grasses,  and  skilfully  trimmed  shrubbery.  These  tracts  of  fra- 
grant splendor  are  diversified  with  groves  of  fruit-trees  (attractive  in 
autumn)  and  hot-bouses  containing  thousands  of  tropical  and  exotic 
flowers.  Fruits,  plants,  and  young  trees  to  the  value  of  $  2,500,000  are 
annually  shipped  from  these  nurseries  (reached  by  South  Ave.).  The 
long  street  which  is  known  in  different  parts  of  its  courae  as  Main,  W. 
Main,  and  West  Ave.  crosses  the  Genesee  at  right  angles  in  the  centre  of 
the  city,  and  is  the  chief  business  thoroughfare. 

The  *PoDrers  Buildlnss*  (corner  of  W.  Main  and  State  Sts.,  are  the  finest  used 
for  commercial  purposes  between  X.  T.  and  Chicago,  and  merit  a  visit  They 
form  a  tubular  blook  with  about  175  ft.  length  of  fronts,  and  7  stories  high,  with 
marble  stairways  and  large  elevators.  The  centre  is  of  Ohio  stone,  the  wings  of 
plate  glass  and  iron  ;  the  partitions  and  floors  are  of  brick  and  iron,  and  the 
whole  mass  rests  on  a  ledge  of  rock.  The  building  contains  8,000,000  brick, 
4,000  tons  of  iron,  65,000  square  ft.  of  marble,  and  12,000  loads  of  sand  (in  mortar). 
There  are  1,000  tenants.  In  the  upper  halls  is  a  lar^e  collection  of  Americau 
paintings.  —  Views  on  the  Hudson,  Juniata,  and  Pleasure  Bay,  Haymaking  Scene, 
Northcote ;  Sylvan  Lake,  Views  on  the  Famiington,  Connecticut, ,  Deerfleld,  and 
Blackwater  Rivers,  Long  Branch,  Cayuga  Lake,  and  Mt.  Tom  (Mass.),  Longworthy ; 
Morning  on  Hudson,  Mt.  Washington,  Fishkill,  and  the  Yo  Semite  Cafion,  Han- 
son ;  Views  on  the  Hudson,  St.  John's,  and  Allegheny  Rivers,  Lagarde;  Tapper's 
Lake,  Shrewsbury  River,  Bowers;  Scene  at  Raritan,  Mom  at  Shetucket,  Bertrand; 
the  Rainy  Lake,  Delaware  River,  Old  Mill  on  Lehigh,  Sunset  on  Huron,  Martinau ; 
Blue  Ridge,  Lake  Sparta,  Delaware  Water  Gap,  Krippendorf;  the  Passaic,  Cherry 
Valley,  Hohenhauser ;  Twilight  on  Ossipee,  Howard  ;  Scene  in  Michigan,  Sunset 
in  Rooky  Mts.,  Albany  and  the  Hudson,  Evening  on  Champlain,^  SiedoU;  Wachu- 
sett  Mt.,  Bonnington ;  Lake  George,  Bradly ;  Horses,  Verboeekhoven ;  several 
landscapes  by  DenakM,  etc.  Scores  of  large  stieel  engravings  are  also  found  here. 
Near  the  head  of  the  grand  stairway  are  2  large  and  'aluable  paintings  by  Hubner, 
of  Diisseldorf,  —  the  Expulsion  flrom  Eden,  and  the  Betrayal  at  Gethsemane  :  also 
the  Massacre  of  the  Innocents,  Seyendecker  (Paris)  ;  and  inferior  copies  of  Cole's 
Voyage  of  Life.    Over  the  building  is  a  tower  175  ft.  high  (always  open  to  visitors ; 


ROCHESTER. 


Route  te.    173 


kted  on  both 
tfti-io.    It  has 

$14,067,276 

an,  1  French, 

>  pupils;,  and 

e  are  6  banks. 

The  manu- 

pre-erainenco 
aursery  trade, 
lacpu  30  flour- 
rom  this  great 

The  immense 
,000  acres)  are 
Lay  be  seen  the 

flowers,  oma- 
)  tracts  of  fra- 
i  (attractive  in 
cal  and  exotic 
$2,500,000  are 
;h  Ave.).  The 
;e  as  Main,  W. 
a  the  centre  of 

tre  the  finest  used 

it  a  visit    They 
itories  high,  with 
)ne,  the  wings  of 
nd  Iron,  and  the 
J  8,000,000  brick, 
sand  (In  mortal). 
;ion  of  Americau 
.aymaking  Scene, 
it,  Deerfleld,  and 
isa),  Longworthy : 
nite  CaBon,  Han- 
ngardt;  Tuppers 
tucket,  Bextrani; 
luron,  Martivm, ; 
ie  Passaic,  Cherry 
Michigan,  Sunset 
\SiedoU:  Wachu- 
iekhoven;  several 
also  found  here, 
itlngs  by  Huhner, 
iethsemane :  also 
>r  copies  of  Coles 
open  to  visitors; 


imall  fiM),  whence  a  pleasant  *  view  in  gained,  embracing  the  whole  elty,  the  rich 
ruburban  towni,  the  nurwriofl  of  \V.  Brighton  in  the  8.,  and  in  the  N.  the  OeneMe 
River,  Charlotte,  the  broad  expanse  of  Luke  Ontario,  and  (on  clear  dayn)  the  Cana> 
dUn  coHHt  beyond.  One  of  the  chief  utations  of  the  Weather  Bureau  of  the  U.  8« 
War  Dep't  is  located  in  thic  building. 

Neftt'  the  Powers  Buildings  is  the  Arcade,  and  nearly  opposite  is  the 
Court  House  of  Monroe  County,  with  a  tall  Ionic  portico.  Back  of  this  is 
the  new  City  Hall,  a  plain,  dignified,  and  commodious  stone  building ; 
and  the  ornate  and  costly  High  School  is  in  the  same  vicinity.  The 
Athenceum  is  at  present  in  the  Court  House,  and  has  a  library  of  over 
20,000  volumes.  The  University  of  Rochester  has  new  stone  buildings 
fronting  across  a  verdant  campus  on  UniverHity  Ave.  The  Ward  Cabinet 
is  said  to  contain  the  best  geological  collections  in  the  U.  S.  The  main 
hall  is  a  massive  sandstone  building  for  lecture-halls ;  near  which  a 
costly  Library  hall  has  been  erected  (12,000  volumes  in  library).  The 
University  was  founded  by  the  Baptists  in  1846,  and  has  8  professorships 
and  about  150  students.  The  Rochester  Theological  Seminary  (Baptist) 
has  about  70  students,  with  a  rich  library  (15,000  volumes),  including 
4,600  volumes  which  formed  the  library  of  Neander,  the  German  church- 
hLstorian.  Among  the  professors  are  Drs.  A.  H.  Strong,  Buckland,  and 
Schaffer.  On  West  Ave.  is  St.  Mary's  Hospital,  an  imposing  stone 
building  250  ft.  long,  with  accommodations  for  800  patients  (under  the 
care  of  the  Sisters  of  Charity).  The  3  Catholic  asylums  shelter  260 
orphans ;  and  the  Sisters  of  Notre  Dame  teach  1,300  children.  The 
City  Hospital  (West  Ave. ;  125  patients)  and  the  Penitentiary  (S.  of  the 
city;  250  inmates)  have'spacious  buildings.  On  a  h  .1  1  M.  N.  of  the 
centre  of  the  city  and  near  the  river  is  the  Western  House  of  Refuge, 
with  extensive  buildings  situated  on  a  farm  of  42  acres,  enclosed  by  high 
walls  and  stockades.  It  accommodates  500  boys,  and  was  founded  by  the 
State  in  1849  for  the  reformation  of  youthful  criminals.  The  Erie  Canal, 
after  passing  the  Irondequoit  Valley  on  lofty  embankments,  enters 
Rochester  and  crosses  the  Qenesee  River  on  an  aqueduct  of  cut  stone 
which  cost  $  600,000.  It  then  meets  the  Genesee  Valley  Canal,  which 
runs  S.  W.  125  M.  (with  branches)  to  Pennsylvania,  ascending  978  ft.  by 
97  locks,  and  built  at  a  cost  of  nearly  $  8,000,000. 

The  suburban  streets  of  Rochester  are  adorned  with  pleasant  villas  and 
gardens,  and  help  to  confirm  the  local  belief  that  this  is  the  most  beautiful 
city  in  N.  Y.  State.  Near  the  S.  line  (horse-cars  to  the  gate)  is  *  Movit 
Hope  Cemetery,  whose  groves  and  hills  and  shady  promenades  form  a 
resort  of  famed  attractiveneiis.  The  ornamental  gateway*  opens  upon  a 
broad  circular  lawn,  near  which  is  the  chapel.  On  a  hill  to  the  1.  is  the 
Observatory  tower,  commanding  the  finest  •  view  in  this  vicinity.  The 
Penitentiary  and  Insane  Asylum  are  seen  near  at  hand,  with  the  el^^nt 
mansion  of  the  late  Judge  Warner ;  while  the  eye  follows  the  Genesee 


174    Rouuie, 


ROCHESTER. 


'  ii  i 


River  fh>m  the  blue  hills  far  in  the  S.  to  the  broad  sheet  of  Lake  Ontario 
in  the  N.  Rochester  and  its  S.  and  W.  suburbs  are  also  overlooked.  The 
cemetery  contains  217  acres,  and  22,226  burials  have  taken  place  here. 
The  great  EUwanger  k  Barry  nursery  is  dose  by  (on  the  N.  E.). 

The  OtiMM*  Fftllf  are  within  the  city,  and  are  interesting  in  an  indns* 
trial  point  of  view.  The  river  falls  226  ft  in  8  M.,  and  has  8  cataracts. 
The  upper  fall  is  96  ft.  high,  and  is  best  seen  by  descending  the  r.  bank 
below  and  walking  up  the  ledge  by  the  water-side.  Much  of  its  water  is 
taken  away  in  races  for  the  use  of  the  mills  on  the  1.  bank,  and  the  Falls 
present  a  fine  appearance  only  at  high  water.  Over  these  cliffs  of  Niagara 
limestone,  Sam  Patch,  the  daring  gymnast,  made  his  fatal  leap  into  the 
waters  below.  From  this  point  the  river  flows  through  a  deep  gorge 
bordered  by  cliffs  (and  spanned  by  the  Vincent  Place  Bridge,  a  triumph 
of  engineering)  to  the  middle  falls,  If  M.  below.  This  cataract  is  best 
seen  from  the  L  bank,  and  is  reached  by  the  horse-cars  on  State  St.  and 
Lake  Ave.  The  middle  fall  is  25  ft.  high;  and  a  short  distance  below  are 
the  lower  falls,  where  the  river  descends  over  a  ledge  of  Medina  sandstone 
84  feet  high.  The  lower,  falls  are  not  improved,  being  in  a  deep  ravine, 
and  are  much  more  picturesque  than  those  above.  The  geological  theory 
is  that  the  river  once  fell  over  cliffs  higher  than  those  of  Niagara;  but  by 
attrition  carried  on  through  ages  on  strata  of  unequal  resisting  powers,  it 
has  worn  its  way  back  through  the  long  Rochester  gorge,  and  formed  a 
succession  of  smaller  cascades.  The  immense  water-power  of  the  upper 
falls  gives  Rochester  its  importance  as  a  manufacturing  city.  In  1872 
there  were  $  60,0(X),000  worth  of  merchandise  exported  from  Rochester, 
and  $20,000,000  worth  of  manufactured  goods  were. made.  It  is  said 
fhat  more  of  the  citizens  here  own  their  homes  than  is  the  case  in  any 
other  American  city  of  equal  size. 

The  first  settler  came  to  fhfs  site  in  1790,  but  there  was  no  village  for  many 

? rears.  In  1812  the  city  was  laid  out  and  founded  by  Nathaniel  Bocnester ;  and 
ts  growth  began  after  the  close  of  the  War  of  1812,  and  the  completion  of  the 
Erie  CanaL  Of  the  present  population  (62,886)  7,780  are  Germans,  6,078  Irish, 
2,658  Canadians,  2,630  English,  610  Hollanders,  475  French,  440  Swiss,  428  Scotch, 
71  Poles,  678  from  Massachusetts,  and  690  firom  Connecticut. 

Charlotte  (pronomiced  ShaAoW)  is  the  port  of  Rochester,  an,d  is  situated 
on  Lake  Ontario,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Glenesee.  It  is  7  M.  from  the  city, 
and  is  reached  by  a  branch  R.  R.,  or  by  steamer  (in  summer;  25c. )  down 
the  river, — a  pleasant  excursion.  The  lake-steamers  touch  here;  and 
the  village  has  2  elevators  and  a  blast-furnace.  Along  the  W.  shore  are 
the  long  bayous  oi  Greece,  and  on  the  E.  is  the  deep  and  narrow  Ironde- 
quoit  Bay.  Daily  steamers  cross  Lake  Ontario  (70  M.)  t6  Toronto  (see 
Route  28).  The  beach  extrading  W.  from  Charlotte  is  much  visited  in 
summer,  and  has  a  laige  hotel  and  numerous  cottages. 


BATAYIA. 


JtouUte,      175 


lake  Ontario 
ooked.   The 
place  here. 
E.). 

in  an  indns- 
8  cataracts. 
J  the  r.  bank 
r  its  water  is 
and  the  Falls 
ffs  of  Niagara 
leap  into  the 
a  deep  gorge 
ge,  a  triumph 
ataract  is  best 
Stete  St.  and 
ince  below  are 
Una  sandstone 
a  deep  ravine, 
)logical  theory 
iagara;  but  by 
ting  powers,  it 
),  and  formed  a 
r  of  the  upper 
city.  In  1872 
•om  Bochester, 
de.  It  is  said 
the  case  in  any 

village  for  many 
.  Rochester ;  and 
jmplction  of  the 
lans,  6,078  Irish, 
wisB,  428  Scotch, 

an,d  is  situated 
from  the  city, 
ler;  25c.)  down 
luch  here;  and 
le  W.  shore  are 
narrow  Ironde- 
Toronto  (see 
lUch  visited  in 


JHoehe$ter  to  Buffalo. 

The  train  passes  <mt  to  the  W.,  and  runs  by  the  small  village  itatioDf 
of  Chili,  Churohville,  Bergen,  and  Byron.  82  M.  from  Rochester  it 
reaches  Bftta^ift  {St,  Jamet  Hotel),  the  capital  of  Qenesee  County,  » 
rich  farming  district  which  originally  belonged  to  Massachusetts,  and 
afterwards  passed  into  the  possession  of  Robert  Morris  and  the  Holland 
Land  Ca).  The  Company  opened  roads,  and  disposed  of  their  lands  on 
liberal  terms,  until  the  county  became  well  populated  and  prosperous. 
Batavia  was  the  central  seat  of  the  Holland  Company,  and  was  founded 
in  1800.  It  has  a  lucrative  trade  with  the  rich  "  Genesee  Country"  which 
surrounds  it,  and  has  3,890  inhabitants,  with  6  churches,  3  banks,  8  news- 
papers, 2  Catholic  asylums,  and  2  seminaries.  The  Court  House  is  a  laiige 
stoue  building,  and  the  State  has  an  arsenal  here.  The  N.  Y.  InatituHon 
for  the  Blind  is  ^  M.  N.  of  the  village,  and  has  new  and  spacious  build- 
ings which  were  erected  at  a  cost  of  $244,000.  A  railroad  runs  S.  from 
Batavia  to  Attica. 

In  1826,  William  Morgan  of  Batavia,  having  been  initiated  into  the  order  of 
Freemasons,  began  the  preparation  of  a  book  disclosing  the  secrets  thereof. 
After  several  attempts  at  intimidation  had  failed,  Morgan  was  arrested  on  a 
trumped-up  suit,  and  was  carried  bv  stage  to  Canandoigua,  and  there  imprisoned. 
On  his  release,  as  he  left  the  jail,  he  was  seised,  gagsed.  and  hurried  away  in  a 
close  carriage.  Be  was  nevermore  seen  or  heard  of  by  his  family  and  people, 
and  it  was  supposed  that  the  Masons  put  him  to  death  because  of  his  treachery 
to  the  order.  An  intense  excitement  spread  over  the  Republic,  and  antimasonie 
societies  were  formed  on  every  side,  with  the  avowed  purpose  of  crushing  the 
order.  The  struggle  lasted  for  6  years,  and  became  a  great  national  question ; 
hut  though  thousands  seceded  from  the  fraternity,  it  suffered  no  permanent 
check.  Tne  printing-offlce  was  guarded  by  the  Batavians  with  artillery,  and  in 
due  time  the  book  of  the  exposure  appeared. 

After  leaving  Batavia  the  train  passes  the  stations  of  Crafts  and  Pem- 
broke. It  then  traverses  Erie  County,  and  beyond  the  stations  of  Alden, 
Wende,  Town  Line,  Lancaster,  and  Forks,  it  enters  the  city  of  Bnfhlo 
(see  Route  33,  adjinem). 

Rochester  to  Niagara  Falls  {77  M.). 

Leaving  the  Rochester  station  the  train  runs  W.  across  the  city,  passes 
the  extensive  freight-depot,  crosses  the  Erie  Canal,  and  traverses  the  fruit- 
ful plains  of  Gates.  The  chief  stations  are ;  —  Spencerport  (amid 
wheat-lands),  Adams  Basin  (a  canal-village),  and  Brockport.  The  latter 
villt^e  has  3,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  seat  of  a  State  Normal  School,  a 
fine  building  of  red  Medina  sandstone,  300  ft.  long  and  3-4  stories  high, 
in  a  park  of  6  acres.  Crossing  thjB  ravine  of  Sandy  Creek,  the  train 
reaches  Holley,  near  which  are  several  salt  springs.  Albion  {Harrington 
House)  is  the  capital  of  Orleans  County,  and  has  3,322  inhabitants,  6 
churches,  2  weekly  papers,  2  banks,  and  3  large  academies.  The  Ciourt 
House  has  a  dome  110  ft  high,  and  the  jail  is  solidly  built  of  Medina 


176    Jt&utete, 


LOCKPORT. 


Mndstone.  A  costly  monument  is  to  be  erected  in  this  village  in  memory 
of  the  soldiers  of  Orleans  who  fell  in  the  Secession  War.  The  Tonawand* 
Swamp  begins  about  6  M.  S.  of  Albion;  and  the  lake  ridge,  about  8  M. 
N.,  is  165  ft.  above  the  lake,  and  marks  its  ancient  shore-Hue.  It  is  many 
leagues  in  length,  and  is  100  -  800  ft.  wide  at  the  top,  along  which  runs 
the  old  highway  and  the  route  of  the  projected  Lake  Ontario  Shore  R.  R. 
Stations,  Knowlesville,  and  Medina  (3,000  inhabitants),  where  there  are 
extensive  quarries  of  dark  red  sandstone,  which  is  used  for  building  and 
flagging.  Beyond  Shelby  Centre,  and  3-  4  M.  S.  W.  of  Medina,  is  a  great 
ancient  fortress,  with  ditches  and  embankments  surrounding  8  acres  of 
land.  Trees  400  years  old  grow  upon  the  ramparts,  and  many  gigantic 
human  skeletons,  with  weapons  and  earthenware,  have  been  found  piled 
in  trenches  near  the  fort,  seeming  to  indicate  a  great  battle  in  prehistoric 
America. 

The  Oak  Orchard  Add  Sprtng$  are  6  M.  S.  of  Medina.  There  are  9  sprinM  of 
different  properties  witliiu  a  circuit  of  800  ft.,  and  the  water  is  exportea  in  large 
quantities  for  medicinal  uses.  They  issue  from  singular  mounds  8  -  4  ft.  high, 
and  the  chief  chemical  constituents  are  the  sulphates  of  lime,  alumina,  and  mag- 
nesia, and  proto-sulphate  of  iron.  This  water  is  remarlcable  as  containing  in  each 
gallon  88  grains  of  fi'ee  sulphuric  acid,  and  must  be  diluted  when  taken  intemtdly. 
It  is  very  efficacious  in  ciiring  skin  diseases  and  ulcers.  There  is  a  similar  spring 
In  Persia,  and  there  are  2  in  New  Oranada.    Batavia  is  12  M.  8.  E.  of  the  Springs. 

The  Tonavoanda  Betervation  is  about  6  M.  S.  of  the  Springs,  and  includes  70 
square  M.  Here  dwells  the  remnant  of  the  Tonawanda  tribe  of  Indians,  number- 
Ing  about  500  souls,  and  forming  an  independent  and  untaxed  community. 

Passing  the  stations  of  Middleport  and  Qasport,  the  train  reaches 
Lookport  (Judson  House),  a  city  of  nearly  15,000  inhabitants,  with  3 
daily  papers,  3  banks,  and  14  churches.  At  this  point  the  Erie  Canal 
leaves  the  lake  ridge  or  ancient  beach  from  the  Erie  Level  to  the  Genesee 
Level,  descending  66  ft.  by  10  double  locks  of  heavy  masonry.  These 
locks  give  name  to  the  city,  and  may  be  seen  from  the  train.  The  canal 
also  passes  through  a  long  cut  in  the  limestone  ridge,  and  furnishes  a  large 
surplus  of  water,  giving  an  hydraulic  power  along  whose  channel  are  nu- 
merous factories  and  flour-mills.  There  is  a  rich  agricultural  district  about 
Lockport,  and  the  limestone  quarries  in  the  vicinity  employ  lar^e  forces. 
The  railroad  crosses  the  canal  on  a  high  bridge,  and  then  the  canal  di- 
verges to  the  S.  W.,  and  is  seen  no  more.  A  branch  R.  R.  runs  S.  W. 
from  Lockport  to  Buffialo  in  26  M.  After  leaving  Lockport  the  train  on 
the  main  line  runs  W.  19  M.,  crossing  the  towns  of  Cambria  and  Niagara, 
and  stopping  at  Suspension  Bridge.  Niagara  Falls  are  seen  in  the  dis- 
tance (1.),  and  may  be  reached  (in  2  M.)  by  connecting  branch  R.  Rs.  on 
either  side  of  the  river,  or  by  carriage. 


\9 


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Vl! 


NIAGARA  FALLa 


Jtoutei?.     177 


27.  Viagara  Falla 

Hotels*— *  Cataract  House.  600  guests,  $4.60  a  day  (closes  late  in  Oct); 
<> International  Hotel,  $4.50  a  day.  These  hotels  are  of  the  lirst  class,  and  are 
alongside  each  other,  close  to  the  rapids.  Opposite  the  R  R  station  is  the 
Spencer  House.  800  guests,  $  8. 50  a  day  (open  all  the  year).  The  Park  Place  Hotel 
(^  3-8.50  a  day)  is  on  the  main  street  of  the  village.  There  are  several  smaller 
and  less  expensive  hotels.  On  the  Canadian  side— <> Clifton  House,  facing  the 
Falls  and  ^ving  the  best  view  ($8.50  a  day,  —  U.  8.  money) ;  Victoria  Hall  Hotel, 
on  the  heights  over  the  Clifton,  $  2  -  8  a  day.  The  village  inns  at  Drummondville 
(1  M.  flrom  the  Falls)  chaige  $  7  - 10  a  week.  At  Suspension  Bridge,  2  M.  flrom 
the  Falls,  is  the  Monteagle  Hotel,  a  fine  stone  building  accommodating  200  guests ; 
$  2.50  -  8  a  day,  $  12  - 15  a  week.  There  are  also  several  inns  at  Susp.  Bridge  and 
in  the  Canadian  village  of  Clifton. 

Railroads.  —  The  N.  T.  Central  to  New  Toric  in  447  M.  (Route  26) :  the  Erie, 
to  New  York  in  442  M.  (Route  83) ;  the  Great  Western,  to  Detroit  (280  M.)  and 
Chicago  (514  M.) ;  the  Erie  and  Ontario,  to  Queenston  and  Niagara  (12  M.),  also 
to  Chippewa  and  Fort  Erie  (Buffalo).  To  Buffalo  by  the  Erie  or  the  N.  Y.  Central 
(22-26  M.) ;  to  Lewiston,  by  the  N.  Y.  Central,  8  M.  ;  to  Philadelphia,  488  M., 
by  the  Erie,  Lehigh  Valley  and  N.  Penn.  R.  Rs.  To  Boston,  506  M.,  by  the  N.  Y. 
Central  and  the  Boston  and  Albany  R.  Rs.  To  Baltimore,  421  M. ;  to  Washington, 
461 :  to  Richmond,  577  ;  to  Cincinnati,  450 ;  to  St.  Louis,  726 ;  to  Memphis,  937 ; 
to  New  Orleans,  1^15  ;  to  Omaha,  1,005 ;  to  San  Francisco,  2,912. 

CarTlaseg. — The  hackmen  of  Niagara  have  been  a  source  of  continual  annoy- 
ance to  visitora  by  their  importunity  and  extortion.  They  may  easily  be  shaken 
off  by  a  prompt  and  Arm  refusal ;  and  gentlemen  who  wish  to  ilde  with  them 
should  make  an  explicit  verbal  contract  before  starting,  — in  which  the  places  to 
be  visited,  the  time  to  be  taken,  and  the  compensation,  should  be  distinctly 
understood  by  both  parties.  There  is  then  but  little  danger  of  trouble.  The 
tolls  on  the  bridges  and  roads  are  paid  by  the  tourist.  No  reliance  should  be 
placed  on  the  hackman's  statement  of  distances.  The  tariff  for  carriages  is  $  2  an 
hour,  but  special  contracts  may  be  made  at  lower  rates  for  visiting  specified  points. 
These  rates  vary  with  the  men,  the  season,  and  the  size  of  the  party.  A  buggy 
and  driver  may  be  hired  for  $  5  a  day.  The  trip  on  the  Canadian  side  includes  the 
Table  Rock,  the  Burning  Spring,  Lundy's  Lane,  the  lower  Suspension  Bridge,  and 
the  Whirlpool  (and  sometimes  Brock's  monument  on  Queenston  Heights).  There 
is  but  little  need  of  a  carriage  on  the  American  shore  unless  busp.  B  -idge  is 
visited,  —  Goat  Island  and  Prospect  Park  being  more  easily  and  pleasantly  trav- 
ersed on  foot.  A  carriage  and  span  may  be  hired  (outside  the  hotels)  for  $  10  a 
day  to  carry  4-5  ijersons  to  all  the  points  of  interest  on  both  shores,  — including 
the  Suspension  Bridge  and  Queenston  Heighte.  Tolls  and  entrance-fees  aro  not 
included  in  this  price.  Guides  may  be  obtained  in  the  village,  but  there  is  no 
fixed  tariff. 

Shops  for  the  sale  of  bead-work,  baskets,  fans,  photo^^phs,  mineraiS,  spar 
and  agate  jewelry,  eto.,  abound  in  various  parts  of  the  village.  Many  of  these 
articles  are  manufactured  by  the  Tuscarora  Indians,  who  live  on  a  reservation  7 
M.  distant.  Indian  squaws  are  seen  at  different  points  selling  these  wares,  which 
are  generally  pretty  and  inexpensive. 

The  extortions  at  Niagara  have  become  world-famed,  and  are  much  exaggerated. 
It  is  true  that  the  tourist  is  called  upon  to  pay  at  nearly  every  step  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Falls  (on  the  American  side),  but  theu  he  is  continually  using  facilities 
and  improvements  which  have  cost  large  amounts  of  money  and  are  only  remu- 
nerative for  a  few  months  in  the  year.  The  Falls  and  their  surroundings  are  fre- 
quently "  done  "  bv  parties  in  a  single  day  ;  and  a^  many  rare  and  curious  olijects 
are  seen  as  would  be  found  in  weeks  of  ordinary  travel  The  payment  must  he  in 
some  degree  commensurate.  Touriste  who  remain  several  days  or  weeks  at  Ni- 
agara can  avail  themselves  of  season-tickets  to  various  pointe  at  low  rates,  and 
their  expenses  need  be  no  greater  than  they  would  be  at  New  York  or  Newport. 
Much  of  the  extra  expense  at  Niagara  is  due  to  the  fact  that  the  majority  of  tour- 
ists here  indulge  in  luxuries  which  are  neither  necessary  or  customary.  Nowhere 
are  carriages  so  needless  as  here,  since  the  distJBUices  aro  short  and  the  roads  are 
unmistakable.    A  gentleman  travelling  e»  garson  may  spend  2  days  here  for  less 

8»  I. 


178     Route  t7. 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


li  i 


than  $10,  by  avoiding  some  of  the  less  interesting  (yet  always  expensive)  locali- 
ties ;  by  l)eing  satistled  witli  comfortable,  instead  of  luxurious,  hotel-accommoda- 
tions ;  and  by  walking,  as  he  would  at  home.  Arriving  at  the  Falls  in  the  morn- 
ing, the  day  should  be  devoted  to  the  American  side  and  principally  to  Ooat 
Island  (good  dining-saloon  in  the  village).  Crossing  to  the  Canadian  shore  at 
evening,  the  second  day  should  be  given  to  that  side.  The  chief  points  of  inter- 
est are  Prospect  Park  (20c.),  Goat  Island  (50c.),  the  New  Suspension  Bridge  (25c.) 
with  the  view  from  its  Canadian  tower  (25c.),  and  the  Burning  Spring  (40c!>.  The 
great  vice  of  modem  travel,  to  wit,  the  visiting  of  places  in  order  to  say  that  they 
have  been  visited  by  the  tourist,  is  very  prevalent  at  Niagara ;  and  many  (perhaps 
most)  of  those  who  go  there  come  away  with  a  vague  idea  of  a  little  natural 
scenery,  conftisedly  mingled  with  swarms  of  vociferous  hackmen,  and  obscured 
by  a  luge  expense-roll.  Should  he  devote  a  week  or  more  to  the  careful  and  rev- 
erent study  of  this  paramount  wonder  of  the  world,  the  summer-voyager  would 
carry  away  a  fadeless  memory  of  sublimity,  joining  in  the  enthusiasm  of  two  of 
the  f<H«most  men  (ia  their  respective  fields  of  honor)  of  the  Anglo-American  race. 

"  Tou  may  stand  by  the  water  just  where  it  falls  off,  and  if  your  head  does  not 
■wim  you  may  proceed  to  the  brink  of  Table  Rock,  and  look  dovm  into  the  gulf 
beneath.  This  is  all  froth  and  foam  and  spray ;  as  you  stand  here  it  looks  as  if 
all  tlie  water  of  the  globe  was  collected  round  this  circle,  and  pouring  down  here 
into  the  centre  of  the  earth.  As  we  stood  to-day  at  noon,  on  the  projecting  point 
at  Table  Bock,  we  looked  over  into  the  abyss,  and  far  beneath  our  feet,  arched 
over  this  tremendous  aggregate  of  water,  we  saw  a  perfect  and  radiant  rainbow. 
This  ornament  of  heaven  does  not  seem  out  of  place  in  being  half-way  up  the  sheet 
of  the  glorious  cataract ;  it  looked  as  if  the  skies  themselves  paid  homage  to  this 

stupendous  work  of  nature By  our  side,  down  comes' this  world  of  greto 

and  white  waters,  and  pours  into  the  invisible  abyss.  A  steady,  unvarying,  low- 
toned  roar  thunders  incessantly  upon  our  ears ;  as  we  look  up  we  think  some 
sudden  disaster  has  opened  the  seas,  and  that  all  their  floods  are  coming  do*m 
upon  us  at  once ;  but  we  soon  recollect  that  what  we  see  is  not  a  sudden  or  irio- 
lent  exhibition,  but  the  permanent  and  uniform  character  of  the  object  which  we 
contemplate.  There  the  grand  spectacle  has  stood  for  centuries — from  the  crea- 
tion, as  far  as  we  know,  without  change.  From  the  beginning  it  has  shaken  as  it 
now  does  the  earth  and  the  air,  and  its  unvarying  thunder  existed  before  there 
were  human  ears  to  hear  it."    (Daniel  Webster.) 

"It  was  not  until  I  came  on  Table  Bock,  and  looked — Great  Heaven — on 
what  a  fall  of  bright  green  water ! — that  it  came  upon  me  in  its  full  might  and 
mi^jesty.  Then,  when  I  felt  how  near  to  my  Creator  I  was  standing,  the  first 
effect,  and  the  endurin;;  one — instant  and  lasting — of  the  tremendous  spectacle 
was  Peace.  Peace  of  Mind  —  Tranquillity  —  calm  recollections  of  the  Dead: 
Great  Thoughts  of  Eternal  Rest  and  Happiness — nothing  of  Gloom  or  Terror. 
Niagara  was  at  once  stamped  upon  my  heart,  an  Image  of  JBeauty  to  remain  there 

changeless  and  indelible  until  its  pulses  cease  to  beat  forever I  think  in 

every  quiet  season  now,  still  do  those  waters  roll  and  leap,  and  roar  and  tumble 
all  day  long ;  still  are  the  rainbows  spanning  them  a  hundred  feet  below.  Still, 
when  the  sun  is  on  them,  do  they  shine  and  glow  like  molten  gold.  Still,  when 
the  day  is  gloomy,  do  they  fall  like  snow,  or  seem  to  crumble  away  like  the  f^onb 
of  a  great  chalk  cliff,  or  roll  down  the  rock  like  dense  white  smoke.  But  always 
does  the  mighty  stream  seem  to  die  as  it  comes  down,  and  always  f^om  the  un- 
fathomable gulf  rises  that  tremendous  ghost  of  spray  and  mist  which  is  never 
laid,  Vhich  has  haunted  this  place  with  the  same  dread  solemnity  since  darkness 
brooded  on  the  deep,  and  that  first  flood  before  the  deluge — Light — came  riish- 
ing  on  creation  at  the  Word  of  God."    (Dickens.) 

NiAOAEA  Falls  are  situated  on  the  Niagara  River,  22|  M.  from  Lake 
Erie,  and  13^  M.  from  Lake  Ontario.  The  river  is  the  outlet  of  Lakes 
Winnipeg,  Winnebago,  Superior,  Michigan,  Huron,  St.  Clfiir,  and  Erie, 
and  drains  over  150,000  square  M.  of  country.  The  geological  theory  is 
that  at  some  remote  period  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie  covered  a  vastly 
greater  extent  than  at  present,  and  were  bounded  on  the  E.  by  the 
heights  at  ^ueenston  and  Lewiston.    By  the  combined  action  of  water, 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


Jtoutei/,      179 


frost,  and  ice,  a  channel  was  cut  deeply  through  this  barrier^  and  a  fall 
(or  succession  of  falls)  with  a  height  of  over  300  ft.  was  formed.  Since 
that  period  the  fall  has  receded  7  M.,  leaving  the  immense  gorge  between 
Niagara  and  Queenston.  The  process  of  recession  is  still  going  on  slowly 
in  the  same  manner.  The  pounding  of  the  waters  disintegrates  the  soft 
shale  near  the  bed  of  the  river,  imtil  the  limestone  strata  above,  being  de- 
prived of  support,  break  into  fn^ments  and  fall.  Within  30  years  the  Ameri- 
can Fall  has  acquired  a  slight  curve,  and  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall  has  changed  its 
outline  considerably.  The  fall  plunged  for  ages  over  the  present  site  of 
the  Whirlpool,  because  the  upper  limestone  was  there  upheld  by  a  hard 
sandstone  stratum,  which  resisted  disintegration.  Although  the  soft 
shales  are  now  being  cut  away,  and  the  undermined  limestone  occasionally 
falls,  the  retrocession  is  much  slower  than  formerly,  since  the  river,  which 
was  but  1,000  ft.  wide  in  the  gorge,  has  now  a  sweep  of  over  4,000  ft. 
Apprehensions  have  been  expressed  lest  in  some  future  epoch  the  river 
shall  pound  its  way  back  to  Lake  Erie,  upon  which  a  drainage  of  that 
sea  would  ensue;  but  the  character  of  the  strata  above  the  Falls  and  the 
increasing  width  of  the  river  render  such  an  event  impossible.  Lyell 
says  that  90,000,000,000  cubic  ft.  of  water  passes  over  every  hour; 
Dwight  holds  that  100^000,000  tons  fall  every  hour ;  and  another  au- 
thority claims  that  the  hourly  flow  is  211,836,853  barrels.  There  is  an 
occasional  rise  in  the  waters  during  W.  winds  on  Lake  Erie;  and  1  ft.  of 
rise  on  the  Falls  raises  the  river  below  17^  ft.  2^  M.  above  the  Fails  the 
river  is  3  M.  wide,  while  at  the  Whirlpool  it  is  narrowed  to  400  ft. 

Winter  at  Niagara  brings  rare  beauties  of  icy  trees  and  shrubbery,  lofty  ice- 
cones  sometimes  nearly  as  high  as  the  Falls,  and  vast  icicles  pendent  from  the 
cliffs.  There  was  considerable  sleighing  on  the  American  Rapids  in  1856,  and  an 
ice  bridge  covered  the  river  from  the  Suspension  Bridge  to  the  American  Falls. 
At  the  break-up  a  dam  formed  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  set  the  water  and 
ice  back  to  a  height  of  60  ft.  In  1866  the  Whirlpool  was  flooded  by  a  gorge  of  lee 
below  until  it  became  smooth  and  level.  In  March,  1848,  a  W.  wind  on  Lake 
Erie  piled  up  the  ice  at  the  E.  end  of  the  lake,  making  an  immense  dam  at  the 
inlet  of  the  Niagara.  The  river  water  soon  ran  off,  leaving  but  feeble  brooks  in 
the  old  channel,  and  a  few  light  bands  of  water  over  the  cliffls.  Teams  were 
driven  far  out  over  the  sites  of  the  rapids,  and  the  roar  of  the  Falls  died  away. 
The  next  day  the  river  broke  away  the  barrier,  and  swept  over  its  old  course  with 
tenfold  ftiry. 

*  Ooat  Island  (entrance,  50c. ;  season-ticket,  $1)  is  5  min.  walk  from 
the  B.  R.  station,  and  is  reached  by  an  iron  carriage-bridge  360  ft.  long, 
resting  on  iron-clad  and  stone-ballasted  oaken  cribs.  The  bridge  was 
built  in  1856,  on  the  site  of  a  wooden  structure  of  1818,  and  during  its 
construction  a  workman  fell  into  the  stream  and  was  swept  to  the  islet 
below,  whence  he  was  rescued  by  an  heroic  man  in  a  skiff.  There  is  a  flne 
view  from  this  bridge  of  the  white  and  turbulent  Rapids,  which  fall  51  ft. 
in  a  course  of  f  M.,  and  attain  a  velocity  of  30  M.  an  hour,  —  "  it  seems 
like  a  battle -charge  of  tempestuous  waves,  animated  and  infuriated  against 
the  sky."    The  road  first  crosses  Bath  UUmd  (2  acres),  where  some  of 


180     MouUfS?. 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


m 


the  Ni(^ra  water-power  is  utilized  for  the  Tribune  Paper  Mills.  Goat 
Island  was  rarely  visited  by  the  Indians,  but  Israel  Putnam  went  on  it  in 
1755,  and  a  party  of  French  officers  reached  it  by  boats,  in  1765.  In  i^ 
early  patent  it  is  said  to  cover  250  acres,  but  its  present  extent  is  about  60 
acres,  and  it  is  being  slowly  worn  away.  In  1779  a  goat  was  put  upon  its 
shores  (then  partly  cleared),  and  his  niame  still  clings  to  the  place,  although 
the  Government  boundary  maps  numed  it  Iris  Island.  The  sequestered 
groves  of  this  island  are  the  goal  of  "  that  great  circle  of  newly  wedded 
bliss,  which,  involving  the  whole  land  during  the  season  of  bridal  tours, 
may  be  said  to  show  richest  and  fairest  at  Niagara,  like  the  costly  jewel  of 
a  precious  ring."  (See  Howells's  "Their  "Wedding  Journey.")  The  path 
to  the  r.  from  the  bridge  leads  (in  5  min.)  to  the  foot  of  the  island  and 
the  verge  of  the  Centre  Fall,  whence  there  is  a  foot-bridge  to  Luna 
Island,  a  rocky  islet  between  the  Central  and  Anierican  Falls.  While  a 
party  was  on  this  island  (in  1848),  a  young  girl  fell  into  the  stream,  and 
a  gentleman  sprang  forward  to  save  her.  They  both  passed  over  the 
Falls,  and  their  bodies  were  afterwards  found  below,  terribly  mutilatedk 
From  Luna  Island  the  *  American  Fall  stretches  away  for  1,200  ft.,  with 
a  perpendicular  plunge  of  164  ft.,  and  the  visitor  can  stand  within  a  span 
of  its  crest.  Fine  lunar  bows  are  seen  here  on  nights  when  the  moon  i& 
fulL  A  short  distance  beyond  is  a  building  where  guides  and  water-proof 
suits  ($  1.50)  are  furnished  for  visitors  to  the  *  Cave  of  the  Winds.  The 
cliff  is  descended  by  a  long  spiral  stairway,  and  a  path  leads  from  the  foot 
to  the  cave,  a  wide  and  lofty  recess  which  has  been  formed  by  the  disin- 
tegration of  the  shaly  rocks.  It  is  roofed  by  the  hard  limestone  stratum, 
and  its  W.  side  is  formed  by  the  blue  waters  of  the  massive  Centre  Fall. 
(It  is  prudent  for  visitors  to  take  off  their  collars  and  cuffs  before  entering 
this  booming  and  brumal  chasm. )  From  the  outside  of  the  cave  double 
and  triple  concentric  circular  rainbows  may  be  seen  on  a  bright  afternoon. 
A  spray-swept  plank-walk  has  been  built  out  on  the  rocks  near  the  foot 
of  the  fall.  On  the  under-cliff  path  a  gentleman  was  killed  (in  1829)  by  a 
heavy  rock  falling  upon  him.  From  this  end  of  the  island  Sam  Patch 
leaped  from  a  ladder  96  ft.  high,  feet-foremost,  into  the  river,  twice  m> 
cessively,  and  came  out  unharmed  (1829).  From  the  foot  of  the  stai^'viray 
a  path  diverges  to  the  1.,  along  which  Prof.  Tyndall  and  a  guide  advanced 
in  1873,  wading  waist-deep  torrents,  and  passing  nearly  to  the  centre  of 
the  Horse-Shoe  Fall.  The  road  which  continues  along  tlie  top  of  the  cliff 
soon  reaches  a  bridge  which  leads  to  the  islet  where  Terrapin  Tower 
formerly  stood  (it  was  blown  up  in  1873).  A  visitor  once  fell  from  this 
bridge  and  was  carried  to  a  rock  on  the  verge  of  the  Falls,  whence  he  was 
rescued  speechless  by  means  of  ropes.  The  •  ♦  vievr  of  the  Horse -Shoe 
Fall  from  this  islet  is  one  of  the  grandest  about  Niagara.  The  width  of 
thi«  Fall  is  nearly  2,400  ft.,  with  a  height  of  158  ft.  (6  ft.  loss  than  the 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


Route  i7,      181 


American  Fall).    Near  Its  centre  is  tiie  smooth  dark  green  current  which 
marks  the  deepest  water  of  the  FitUs,  —  over  20  ft 

The  term  "Canadian  Fall"  is  often  applied  to  the  waters  W.  of  Qoat  Island, 
but  it  is  inexact,  since  the  national  bounoanr  passes  down  the  centre  of  the  Horse^ 
Shoe,  leaving  fUlly  half  of  the  W.  Falls  in  the  domain  of  the  Republic.  Th<)  out- 
line of  this  Fall  has  been  so  changed  that  the  horseshoe  curve  is  less  apptirenfc 
than  formerly.  In  recent  years  large  sections  of  the  adjacent  clifb  of  Ooat  Isluid 
have  fallen  into  the  abyss  below,  and  Gull  Island,  near  the  curve  of  the  Falls,  i\u 
been  washed  away.  In  1827  the  condemned  ship  Michigan  was  sent  over  tke 
Horse-Shoe  Falls  with  a  cargo  of  animals,  one  of  which,  a  samcious  bear,  de- 
serted the  ship  in  the  midst  of  the  rapids,  and  swam  ashore.  In  1841  the  old 
frigate  Detroit  (of  Perry's  fleet)  was  set  adrift  toward  the  Falls,  but  lodged  among 
the  rocks  in  the  rapids,  and  was  cut  to  pieces  by  the  ice  the  next  winter.  Hun- 
dreds of  wild  ducks  are  carried  over  every  year,  and  are  picked  up  dead  on  the 
river  below.  Centuries  ago  the  Indians  were  accustomed  to  spend  some  weeks  of 
the  autumn  here,  for  the  game  which  they  could  find.  In  1810  a  salt-boat  sunk 
off  Chippewa,  and  3  of  the  crew  were  carried  over  the  Falls ;  in  1821,  a  scow  and 
2  men  went  over ;  in  1825,  5  more,  3  of  whom  were  in  canoes ;  in  1841,  a  sand- 
scow  and  2  men,  and  2  smugglers  ;  in  1847,  a  young  boy,  who  tried  to  row  across 
above;  in  1848,  two  children  were  plajring  in  a  skiff,  when  it  got  loose, — the 
mother,  wading  out,  saved  one,  but  the  other  was  swept  over,  grasping  the  boat 
on  each  side.  In  1871,  3  strangers  tried  to  row  across  iar  above,  but  the  current 
drew  them  in,  and  carried  them  down ;  and  in  1873,  a  newly  married  couple,  while 
rowing  about  near  Chipjpewa,  were  drawn  into  the  central  current,  and  passed 
over  the  Falls  in  each  other's  arms.  Many  other  disastei  s  have  occurred  above 
and  below  the  Falls,  as  if  to  verify  the  Indian  tradition  that  Niagara  demands  2 
victims  yearly.  Two  bull-terrier  dogs  have  made  the  plunge  over  the  American 
Falls  without  harm.  One  of  them  lived  all  winter  on  a  dead  cow  which  it  found 
on  the  rocks  below ;  and  the  other  trotted  up  the  ferry-stairs,  very  much  aston- 
ished and  grieved,  within  an  hour  from  the  tune  when  he  was  thrown  firom  Goat 
Island  Bridge. 

The  *  Three  Sitters  are  rugged  and  romantic  islets  S.  W.  of  Goat 
Island,  and  are  reached  by  3  pretty  suspension  bridges  connected  with  the 
road  leading  from  Terrapin  Bridge.  They  afford  the  best  *  view  of  the 
Bapids  at  their  widest,  deepest,  and  most  tumultuous  part,  where  the 
base  of  their  heaviest  whirl  is  wreathed  with  mist.  A  light  bridge  leads 
to  another  picturesque  islet  near  the  third  Sister.  "The  Three  Sisters  are 
mere  fni.gments  of  wilderness,  clumps  of  vine-tangled  woods,  planted  upon 
masses  of  rock ;  but  they  are  parts  of  the  fascination  of  Niagara  which  no 
one  resists." 

Between  Moss  ^the  first  Sister)  and  Goat  Island  is  the  Hermit's  Cascade,  where 
Francis  Abbott,  the  Hermit  of  Niagara,  was  wont  to  bathe.  He  was  a  yoimg 
Englishman,  who  had  travelled  over  much  of  Europe  and  Asia,  and  had  alter- 
nated protracted  theological  studies  with  metropolitan  dissipation  until  a  mental 
unsettling  ensued.  He  came  here  in  1889,  and  lived  on  Goat  Island  for  2  years, 
with  no  companions  but  a  dog  and  cat,  flute,  violin,  and  books.  He  dressed  in  a 
long  robe,  and  wrote  much  (in  Latin),  Removing  to  Point  View,  near  the  Amer- 
ican Fall,  in  1841,  he  was  soon  afterward  drowned  while  bathing. 

From  the  head  of  Goat  Island,  1  M.  up  river,  is  seen  the  white  house  which 
stands  on  the  site  of  Fort  Schlosser,  near  which,  at  the  raouth  of  Cayuga  Creek, 
Father  Hennepin  and  La  Salle  spent  the  winter  and  spring  of  1678-79.  They 
built  here  a  60-ton  vessel,  the  Griffln,  and  sailed  up  the  great  lakes  to  Green  Ba  y 
(Wisconsin).  Fort  du  Portage  was  afterward  erected  at  Schlosser,  and  was  taken 
by  the  English  in  1759,  after  a  si^,  in  which  the  French  garrison  destroyed  their 
armed  store-ships  in  Burnt  Ship  Bay.  On  Navy  Island  (near  Schlosser)  the  Cana- 
dian insurgents  of  1837  bad  their  head-quarters,  and  communicated  with  the 


182     JtmUe  ft. 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


'  I 


Amerioan  shore  by  the  steamer  CSaroIin«.  A  British  force  boarde«l  the  Caroline 
by  night,  and  after  a  short  strasKle  beat  off  the  crew.  The  vessel  was  then  set  on 
fire,  and  drifted  down,  blazing  through  the  darkness,  to  the  cascades  below  Ooat 
Island,  where  she  went  to  pieces  (some  say  that  she  plunged  over  the  Falls  in  a 
mass  of  flame).  CoL  Allan  McNab,  who  ordered  this  attaclc,  was  soon  afterwards 
kntghted.  Grand  Istond  is  above  Navy  Island,  and  is  12  M.  long  and  2  -  7  M.  wide 
(containing  17,240  acres),  la  iS20  Mordecai  M.  Noah  endeavored  to  make  this 
island  a  home  for  the  scattered  Hcbi'ev/.«  thr.^ngbout  the  world.  After  much 
legislation  and  wide  correcipondf  nee  witli  his  compatriots,  he  put  up  a  monument 
on  the  island,  inscribed,  "Araya!;,  ti  city  of  refum^  for  the  Jews,"  etc.  Bu*  the 
European  Rabbins  denouncttd  tlio  movement,  ).t»  1  the  project  was  abandoned. 

*PiORp6«t  Fbxk  (entrance,  20c.;  sea.%p.  ticket,  50c.;  entrance  and 
ferriage  o</er  and  back,  £0c.)  is  on  the  muinland,  by  the  side  of  the 
American  Fall.  Its  cliief  point  of  interest  is  a  platform,  inwalled  by  a 
low  parapet,  on  the  very  verge  of  the  Fall,  whence  the  deep  abyss  and 
the  broad  curve  of  the  waters  mcy  be  jbse?  ved  in  security.  A  railway 
,860  it.  longi  and  Incliisud  at  an  angle  of  38°,  leads  from  the  Park  to  the 
liver  below.  Thi^^  care  are  drawi.  >'/  an  endless  cable,  which  is  worked 
by  water-power.  Paths  lead  from  the  base  of  the  cliflF  into  the  spray 
toward  the  Falls;  also  to  Point  View,  and  to  2  small  caverns  nearly  1  M. 
distant  (the  path  is  nigged  and  dangerous).  Near  the  foot  of  the  railway 
the  tourist  enters  a  lurgia  rowboat,  which  is  tossed  about  as  if  on  a  stormy 
0ea  by  the  tumultuous  waters.  The  *  view  of  the  Falls  from  mid-stream 
(or  \  ci  the  way  across)  is  awe-inspiring,  and  gives  the  full  idea  of  their 
great  height,  which  is  not  obtained  from  the  banks  above.  This  ferry 
was  established  in  1825,  and  no  accident  has  ever  occurred  on  it.  From 
1854  to  1867  the  steamer  Maid  of  the  Mist  plied  between  the  Suspension 
Bridge  and  the  close  proximity  of  the  Falls.  The  passage  of  the  river 
takes  10  min.,  and  the  depth  of  the  water  on  the  line  of  transit  is  180  ft. 
A  road  ^  M.  long  leads  from  the  landing  to  the  top  of  the  cliff,  near  the 
Clifton  House  (carriages  are  in  waiting). 

TlVe  'New  Saspension  Bridge  (25c.  for  pedestrians)  is  6-800  ft.  be- 
low the  Falls,  of  which  it  gives  a  grand  panoiamic  *  view  "  from  the  begin- 
ning of  the  American  Fall  to  the  farthest  limit  of  the  Horse-Shoe,  with 
all  the  awful  pomp  of  the  Bapids,  the  solemn  darkness  of  the  wooded 
islands,  the  mystery  of  the  vaporous  gulf,  the  indomitable  wildness  of  the 

shores,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  up  or  down  the  fatal  stream 

Of  all  the  bridges  made  with  hands  it  seems  the  lightest,  most  ethereal ; 
it  is  ideally  graceful,  and  droops  from  its  slight  towers  like  a  garland." 
That  "apotheosis  of  industry,"  the  white  and  slender  fall  called  the 
Bridal  Yell,  is  seen  on  the  American  shore,  and  is  the  end  of  "  a  poor 
but  respectable  mill-race  which  has  devoted  itself  strictly  to  business,  and 
has  turned  mill-wheels  instead  of  fooling  around  water-lilies.  It  can 
afford  that  idtimate  finery,"  The  bridge  was  finished  in  1869,  at  a  cost 
of  $175j000|  and  is  tiie  longest  suspension  bridge  in  the  world,  being  1,190 


THE  BUBNINQ  SPBINQ.       RmUefT.      183 


ft.  ttoxa.  cliff  to  cliff,  and  1,268  ft.  from  tower  to  tower.  1,240  ft.  of 
platform  is  sustained  190  ft.  above  the  river  by  2  cables,  each  of  which 
is  7  inches  in  diameter,  and  is  composed  of  7  ropes,  each  containing  133 
-wires.  The  American  tower  (10c.  for  the  ascent)  is  100  ft.  high;  and  the 
Canadian  tower  (ascended  by  an  elevator;  25c.)  is  105  ft.  high,  and  com- 
mands a  noble  *  view  of  the  Falls  and  the  great  ravine.  The  terminus  is 
near  the  Clifton  Honse,  a  spacious  first-class  hotel  which  faces  the  entire 
range  of  the  Falls.  Passing  from  the  Clifton  House  toward  the  Falls,  a 
continuous  and  mtyestic  prospect  is  afforded.  The  Kaieum  (50c.)  is  soon 
approached.  It  contains  collections  of  coins,  minerals,  Egyptian  relics 
and  mummies,  casts  from  Ninevite  sculptures,  a  line  of  grotesque  wax 
figures,  and  an  extensive  array  of  stuffed  birds  and  animals  arranged  in  a 
forest-scene.  There  is  a  pleasant  prospect  from  the  upper  balconies,  and 
in  the  hall  below  is  a  large  salesroom  for  bijouterie  characteristic  of 
Niagara.  Live  buffaloes  are  kept  in  the  yard.  Oil-cloth  suits  and  guides 
are  frmished  here  ($  1)  for  the  passage  under  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall.  When 
apparelled  in  these  damp  and  clammy  suits,  ladies  look  like  squaws,  and 
gentlemen  resemble  Cape  Ann  fishermen  in  a  heavy  gale.  Termination 
Bock  is  reached  near  the  edge  of  the  Fall,  and  visitors,  blinded  by  the 
spray,  and  deafened  by  the  roaring  of  the  waters,  will  be  satisfied  to 
return  speedily.  Tourists  without  guides  and  appropriate  clothing  should 
not  venture  near  the  Fail.  Another  house  beyond  the  Museum  also 
furnishes  conveniences  for  going  under.  300  ft.  above  the  Museum  is 
Table  Bock,  from  which  is  given  the  grandest  front  *  •  view  of  the  entire 
Falls;  and  time  sho.tld  be  unlimited  at  this  point. 

Some  caution  is  necessary  here.  A  young  lady  once  fell  over,  and  was  fatally 
bruised  on  the  rocks,  115  ft.  below.  In  1850  a  section  of  this  ledge,  200  X  60  ft., 
and  100  ft.  thiclc,  broke  away,  and  plunged  into  the  chasm  below  with  a  tremen- 
dous roar.  An  omnibus  which  was  standing  upon  it  went  down  also,  and  was 
shivered  to  atoms,  the  driver  barely  escaping  by  the  warning  of  the  splitting 
rocks.  Pieces  of  this  rock  fall  occasionally  during  the  winter  and  spring,  render- 
ing somewhat  perilous  the  narrow  shelf  below  which  leads  to  the  Gothic  arch 
under  the  Horse-Shoe  Fall.  The  remaining  part  of  Table  Rock  is  thought  to  be 
destined  to  remain  firm,  as  there  is  but  little  overhang ;  although  a  crack  125  fL 
long  and  30  ft.  deep  was  left  when  the  gi'eat  crash  took  place. 

The  *BaTiiing  Spring  is  2  M.  above  Table  Bock,  and  should  be  ap- 
proached by  the  river-road,  which  affords  a  fine  view  of  the  Great  Ox- 
Bow  Bapids  and  the  broad  river  above.  On  Long  Island,  near  the  bend 
of  the  Falls,  is  a  tower  (50c. )  from  which  the  Bapids  may  be  seen  to  good 
advantage,  and  also  the  E.  line  of  the  Horse-Shoe.  Just  above  is  the  fine 
mansion  and  p^rk  formerly  owned  by  Mr.  Street,  a  retired  bachelor  and 
fervid  lover  of  Nature,  who  won  the  ill-will  of  the  inhabitants  of  this 
section  and  the  gratitude  of  all  tourists  by  refusing  to  allow  mills  to  be 
erected  on  his  wide  riverward  domains.  The  Burning  Spring  (40c.  ad- 
siission)  is  highly  charged  with  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas,  whidi  bums 


' 


t  h 


,r| 


I  < 


184    Rouurr.   anE  suspension  bridge. 

with  sn  intermittent  pale  blue  flame  when  ignited.  Tb»  water  Ib  in  * 
state  of  ebullition,  and  the  spring-house  is  kept  darkened  to  increase  the 
effect.  A  tub  with  a  long  iron  pipe  through  the  bottom  is  inverted  over 
the  water,  and  a  constant  stream  of  gas  passes  through  it,  affording  a  jet 
of  flame  over  3  ft.  high.  The  spring  is  at  the  water's  edge,  and  overlooks 
the  white  rapids  to  Goat  Island;  while  nearer  at  hand  is  Cynthia  Island, 
joined  to  the  Street  domain  by  a  pretty  footbridge.  It  is  best  to  return 
to  the  Fails  by  the  parallel  road  on  the  heights,  by  the  Loretto  Convent, 
from  which  good  views  are  gained,  including  the  best  overview  of  the 
Horse-Shoe.  ''By  all  odds,  too,  the  most  tremendous  view  of  the  Falls  is 
afforded  by  the  point  on  this  drive  whence  you  look  down  upon  the 
Horse-Shoe,  and  behold  its  three  massive  walls  of  sea  rounding  and 
sweeping  intj  the  gulf  together,  the  color  gone,  and  the  smooth  brink 
showing  bl'ick  and  ridgy."  A  road  diverging  to  the  1.,  near  the  Falls,  leads 
to  the  hamlet  of  Drummondville  (1^  M.  from  Table  Bock),  on  whose 
heights  is  a  tower  which  overlooks  the  battle-field  of  Lundy's  Lane  and 
a  great  extent  of  country,  from  Brock's  monument  on  Queenston  Heights 
to  Buffalo  and  Lake  Erie.  The  battle-field  of  Chippewa  is  2  M.  S.  of  the 
Burning  Spring,  and  just  beyond  the  hamlet  of  Chippewa  (see  page  186). 
The  *  Suspension  Bridge  which  connects  Suspension-Bridge  village  and 
Clifton,  and  sustains  the  track  of  the  Great  Western  Railway,  is  about  2 
M.  N.  of  the  Falls.  It  was  built  iu  1852,  under  the  direction  of  John  A. 
Roebling,  and  cost  $500,000.  It  is  800  ft.  long,  and  230  ft.  above  the 
river,  and  weighs  800  tons,  being  fitted  to  sustain  a  maximum  weight  of 
7,809  tons.  It  is  supported  by  4  cables  (10^  inches  thick),  each  of  which 
contains  3,684  wires,  with  a  total  length  of  over  4,000  M.  of  wire;  and 
its  towers  are  78  and  88  ft.  high.  The  first  wire  was  drawn  across  by  a 
tftring  which  had  been  carried  ov^r  on  a  kite.  18  ft.  above  the  carriage- 
way is  the  railway-floor,  over  w  lich  the  heaviest  trains  pass  safely, 
causing  a  deflection  in  the  curv  of  but  5-10  inches.  On  the  S.  W. 
the  New  Suspension  Bridge  and  t  le  Falls  are  seen,  while  on  the  N.  are 
the  white  and  terrible  *  Whirlpoc  \  Rapids.  Just  beyond  the  Monteagle 
House  (American  side)  is  a  double  elevator  (50c.),  which  leads  from  the 
top  of  the  bank  300  ft.  down  to  the  verge  of  these  marvellous  rapids,  where 
the  waters  of  the  great  lakes  are  compressed  into  a  narrow  gorge,  and 
rush  down  with  such  fury  that  the  centre  of  the  stream  is  30-40  ft. 
higher  than  the  sides.  June  15, 1867,  the  intrepid  pilot  Robinson  guided 
the  steamer  Maid  of  the  Mist  as  she  shot  these  rapids,  "like  the 
swift  sailing  of  a  large  bird  in  a  downward  flight."  Her  smok«-stack  was 
beaten  down,  and  the  vessel  was  tossed  like  a  leaf  on  the  huge  surges,  but 
speedily  reached  the  calm  water  below  LewistSn  in  safety.  About  1  M. 
below  the  rapids  is  the  Whirlpool,  situated  in  a  circular  bend  of  the 
river,  and  bounded  by  difiii  850  ft.  high.    Logs  and  other  things  which 


ST.  CATHARINEU 


JtauU  f7.      185 


ore  drawn  into  these  concentric  currants  wliirl  about  then  for  many 
days. 

Qneenaton  is  an  insignificant  Canadian  hamlet  6  M.  N.  of  the  Falls; 
above  which  a  lofty  monument  was  erected  on  the  place  where  Oen.  Brock 
fell  in  the  battle  of  Queenston  Heights.  This  was  blown  up  by  a  scoun- 
drelly refugee  in  1840 ;  and  in  1853  the  present  noble  *  monument  was 
dedicated.  On  a  base  40  ft.  square  and  20  ft.  high  are  4  colossal  lions, 
between  which  rises  a  lofty  fluted  shaft  of  sandstone.  On  the  Corinthian 
capital  is  a  relief  of  the  Goddess  of  Wai,  and  above  this  is  a  dome  which 
supports  a  colossal  statue  of  Gen.  Brock.  The  monument  is  185  ft.  high, 
aud  is  ascended  by  an  inner  spiral  stairway  of  250  steps.  The  view  ftrom 
this  point  is  extensive,  and  includes  the  tower  on  Lundy's  Lane,  a  con- 
Biderable  sweep  of  the  river,  And  the  broad  lake. 

St.  Catharine'!  (* Stephenson  House;  *  Wetland  House;  Spring 
Bank,  famous  for  its  baths)  is  a  city  of  Ontario,  6  M.  from  Queenston. 
It  is  called  "  the  Saratoga  of  Canada,"  and  has  several  mineral  springs, 
producing  the  best  iodo-bromated  saline  waters  in  the  world  (except  those 
of  Prussian  Krenznach).  They  are  taken  for  cases  of  gout,  neuralgia, 
cutaneous  diseases,  and  rheumatism,  either  by  means  of  warm  baths  or 
internally  (highly  diluted).  The  principal  minerals  in  solution  are  the 
chlorides  of  sodium,  calcium,  and  magnesium.  Welland  is  located  on  the 
Welland  Canal ;  and  a  favorite  diive  is  to  Lake  Ontario,  3  M.  distant,  — 
whence,  from  Port  Dalhousie,  steamers  run  daily  to  Toronto.  6  M.  N.  of 
Queenston  is  the  village  of  Niagara. 

It  is  probable  that  the  fearless  Franciscan  monks  and  the  adventurous  Air- 
traders  of  France  had  often  seen  the  Falls  at  a  very  early  dav.  But  the  first  de- 
scription (with  a  sketch)  was  made  by  Father  Hennepin  in  1678,  who  gave  them 
a  height  of  600  ft.,  saying  also :  "  Betwixt  the  Lakes  firie  and  Ontario  there  is  a 
vast  and  prodigious  cadence  of  water  which  falls  down  a  surprising  and  astonish- 
ing height^  insomuch  that  the  universe  does  not  afford  its  pqjrallel The 

waters  which  fall  from  this  horrible  precipice  do  foam  and  boil  after  the  most 
hideous  manner  imaginable,  making  an  outrageous  noise,  more  terrible  than  that 
of  thunder  :  for  when  the  wind  blows  out  of  the  S.  their  dismal  roaring  may  be 
heard  more  than  15  leagues.  The  River  Niagara,  having  thrown  Itself  down  this 
incredible  precipice,  continues  its  impetuous  course  fur  2  leagues  together  .... 
with  an  inexpressible  rapidity.  ....  The  two  brinks  of  it  are  so  prodigious  high 
that  it  would  make  one  tremble  to  look  steadily  upon  the  water  rolling  along  with 
a  rapidity  not  to  be  imagined."  Before  this  visit  the  peaceful  Kahkwa  tribe 
(called  the  Neuter  Nation)  had  been  driven  from  the  region,  and  the  Senecas  had 
replaced  them,  but  did  not  dwell  near  the  cascades  (Hennepin  thinks  they  fearei 
to  be  made  deaf  by  "  the  horrid  noise  of  the  Fall ").  In  1687  the  Baron  La 
Hontan  visited  the  Falls,  and  reported  them  to  be  7-800  ft.  high  and  IJ  M.  wide. 
The  name  Niagara  is  said  to  mean  "  Thunder  of  Waters."  In  1678  La  Salle  en- 
tered the  river  (with  16  men,  in  a  10-ton  brigantine)  singing  the  Te  Deum,  and 
the  next  year  sailed  from  above  the  Falls  in  the  first  vessel  on  the  Great  Lakes. 
In  1687  a  fort  was  built  at  Niagara  by  the  Marquis  De  Nonville ;  and  in  1750  Fort 
da  Portage  was  erected  above  the  Falls.  This  was  taken  in  the  year  of  the  Con- 
quest of  Canada,  and  was  strengthened  under  the  name  of  Fort  Schlosser.  In 
1763  occurred  a  horrible  massacre  at  Devil's  Hole,  8^  M.  N.  of  the  Falls,  when  a 
large  force  of  Senecas  ambushed  a  commissary-train  with  a  strong  escort,  on  the 
shore  of  Bloody  Bon.    But  2  of  the  train-guards  escaped,  while  the  supports 


186      RaiUeir.     THE  NIAGARA  FRONTIER. 

which  were  hurried  from  Lewlston  to  the  sotmd  of  the  firing  were  neerlv  an  puis 
to  the  tomahawk  in  a  second  ambush.  Many  of  the  victims  were  cast  alive  from 
the  lofty  cliffb  into  the  boUiug  Niagara,  and  their  horsett  and  wagons  were  hurled 
down  after  them. 


!  >ii 


The  Battlei  along  the  Niagara  Frontier. 

The  Battle  of  Queenston  Heights  was  fought  Oct.  13, 1812.  A  small  force  of 
17.  8.  regulars  crossed  the  river  liefore  dawn  and  stormed  the  Heights  under  a 
heavy  fire,  but  were  soon  hotly  engaged  with  Aresh  British  troops  brought  up  by 
Sir  Isaac  Broclc.  After  a  long  contest,  in  which  Brock  was  killed,  tlie  regulars 
under  8cott  and  Wool  held  their  ground  and  repulsed  a  second  attack  by  250  Mo- 
hawks under  Brant.  But  most  of  the  large  army  of  N.  Y.  militia  refused  to  orosii 
to  their  aid  from  Lewiston,  and  Gen.  SheafTe  soon  fell  upon  the  heroic  little  band 
with  an  overwhelming  Canadian  force,  and  compelled  it  to  surrender.  The 
British  lust  130  men  ;  and  the  Americana  lost  1,100  men  (900  prisoners,  of  whom 
4  -  500  were  nut  engaged,  and  were  hidden  under  the  banks  of  the  river).  After 
several  sharp  actions  along  the  river,  in  May,  1813,  an  American  fleet  and  army 
attacked  tlie  fortifications  (garrisoned  by  1,800  men)  at  tlie  mouth  of  the  Niagara 
and  captured  them  by  a  naval  l)ombardment  and  a  land-battlo,  inflicting  on  the 
British  a  loss  of  803  men.  1,800  Americans  pursued  the  enemy  as  far  as  Stony 
Creek,  where  they  were  surprised  at  night  and  lost  164  men,  and  their  generals 
and  artillery,  while  the  British  loss  was  178.  The  Americans  were  soon  afterward 
defeated  near  Thorold  with  a  loss  of  540  men ;  and  were  obliged  at  a  later  day  to 
bum  Newark  and  witlidraw  across  the  river  to  Fort  Niagara,  which  was  soon 
captured  by  a  night  attack,  and  Lewiston  was  sacked  and  destroyed.  After  vari- 
ous sharp  actions  near  BufTalo,  Gens.  Scott  and  Brown  advanced  to  within  4  M. 
of  Niaga  a  Falls,  and  there  (July  5, 1814)  was  fought  the  Battle  ofChippeiva.  The 
combatants  were  1,800  Americans  and  1,700  Britons,  and  after  a  long  and  obsti- 
nate conflict  of  infantry,  the  enemy  fled  in  confusion,  having  lost  604  men  (Ameri- 
can loss,  335). 


'  O'er  Huron'!  wnve  the  tun  wu  low. 
The  weary  toldter  watched  the  bow 
Fait  fading  from  the  cloud  below 
The  dashing  of  Niagara. 


And  while  the  phantom  chained  hli  sight, 
AIil  little  thought  he  of  the  tight.— 
The  horrori  oflhc  dreamleii  night, 
That  poited  on  ao  rapidly." 


The  Battle  of  Niagara  Falls,  or  Lundy's  Lane,  was  fought  July  25, 1814,  on  the 
heights  1  M.  W.  of  the  Falls.  Several  days  after  the  victory  at  Chippewa,  Scott 
advanced  with  1,200  men,  and  engaged  the  British  at  Lundy's  Lane.  Ho  supposed 
that  but  a  small  force  was  before  him,  but  in  reality  it  was  the  whole  hostile  army. 
Jessup's  25th  R^ulars  charged  through  the  lines  of  Wellington's  veterans  and 
captured  Gen.  Riaii  and  his  staff,  and  at  9  in  tlie  evening  the  rest  of  the  army 
reinforced  Scott  A  little  later,  Gol.  Miller  and  the  2l8t  Regulars  advanced  up 
the  heights  in  the  moonliglit  and  stormed  the  British  batteries  above.  After  a 
tei  rible  hand-to-hand  contest  with  the  infantry  supports.  Miller  held  the  hill,  with 
7  pieces  of  Britisti  artillery,  and  repulsed  4  charges  of  the  enemy.  When  the  last 
British  assault  was  disastrously  repulsed,  the  Americans  remained  in  possession 
of  the  enemy's  positions  and  guns.  Later  in  the  night  they  retired  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  field  and  battery,  which  were  reoccupied  by  the  royalists.  There 
were  2,600  Americans  in  this  battle  (of  whom  852  were  lost),  and  4,500  British  (of 
whom  878  were  lost).  The  Battle  of  Niagara  Falls  "  has  few  parallels!  in  history 
in  its  wealth  of  gallant  deeds.    It  was  fought  wholly  in  the  shadows  of  a  summer 

evening  between  sunset  and  midnight Above  was  a  serene  sky,  a  placid 

moon  in  its  wane,  and  innumerable  stars,  —  a  vision  of  Beauty  and  Peace  ;  below 
was  the  sulphurous  smoke  of  battle,  ....  out  of  which  came  the  quick  flashes 
of  lightning  and  the  bellowing  of  the  echoes  of  its  voice,  -—a  vision  of  Horror  and 
Strife.  Musket,  rocket,  and  cannon,  cracking,  hissing,  and  booming;  and  tlie 
clash  of  sabre  and  bayonet,  with  the  cries  of  human  voices,  made  a  hoiTid  din 
that  commingled  with  tiie  awful,,  solemn  roar  of  the  great  cataract  hard  by,  whose 
muJBfled  thunder-tones  rolled  on,  on,  forever,  in  infinite  grandeur  when  tlie  puny 
drum  had  ceased  to  beat,  and  silence  had  settled  upon  the  field  of  carnage.  There 
tlie  dead  were  buried,  and  the  mighty  diapason  of  the  flood  was  their  requiem." 

(LOSSINO.) 


rare  nearly  all  put 
ire  cast  alive  from 
igona  were  hurled 


r. 

A  email  force  of 
Heights  under  a 

f>s  brought  up  by 
Ued,  the  regulars 
ftttack  by  260  Mo- 
la  refused  to  crosti 
heroic  little  band 
)  surrender.  The 
risoners,  of  whom 
the  river).  After 
\n  fleet  and  army 
ith  of  the  Niagara 
,  Inflicting  on  the 
y  as  far  as  Stony 
nd  their  generals 
ere  soon  aftei'ward 
I  at  a  later  day  to 
,  which  was  soon 
oyed.  After  vari- 
ed to  within  4  M. 
ifChippeiva.  The 
'  a  long  and  obsti- 
1 604  men  (Ameri- 

chalned  hli  ilghl^ 
thoflght,— 
ileii  night, 
pidly." 

y  25, 1814,  on  the 

Chippewa,  Scott 

ne.    Ho  supposed 

hole  hostile  army. 

tn's  veterans  and 

rest  of  the  army 

ars  advanced  up 

above.    After  a 

leld  the  hiU,  with 

When  the  last 

ed  in  possession 

ired  a  short  dis- 

royalists.    There 

4,500  British  (of 

rallelsl  in  history 

uws  of  a  summer 

ne  sky,  a  placid 

nd  Peace ;  below 

the  quick  flashes 

on  of  Horror  and 

ipming ;  and  tlie 

ide  a  horrid  din 

t  hard  by,  whose 

when  the  puny 

carnage.    There 

their  requiem." 


mi--K 


NIAGARA. 


MoutetS,      187 


28.  Niagara  Falli  to  Toronto  and  Montreal  Lake  Ontario 
and  the  St  Lawrence  Biver. 

Trains  leave  Niagara  Falls  twice  daily  (in  summer ;  once  daily  at  other  seasons) 
for  Lewiston,  where  connections  are  made  with  steamers  for  Toronto  (fare  through 
to  Toronto,  $2).  Passengers  from  the  Canadian  side  (Clifton  House,  etc.)  will  find 
it  more  convenient  to  take  trains  on  the  Canada  Southern  Railway  from  Clifton 
station  to  Niagara  (at  the  mouth  of  the  river),  where  the  steamers  stop  on  the 
way  from  Lewiston  to  Toronto.  Some  tourists  prefer  to  take  the  Great  Western 
Railway  from  Suspension  Bridge  to  Hamilton  (43  M.),  a  handsome  city  of  28,000 
inhabitants,  whence  the  Royal  Mail  steamers  start  for  Montreal  (Toronto  being  a 
way-station).  Others,  during  stormy  weather  on  the  lake,  pass  by  rail  to  Hamil- 
ton and  Toronto  (82  M.),  and  thence  by  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  to  Kingston,  at 
the  efflux  of  the  St  Lawrence  (161  M.  Arom  Toronto).  There  are  many  who  go 
from  Lewiston  to  Toronto  by  boat,  and  then  take  the  train  for  Kingston  or  Hon- 
treal ;  but  in  pleasant  summer  weather  the  lake  route  is  preferable. 

After  leaving  Niagara  Falls  the  train  passes  along  the  edge  of  the  gorge 
in  which  the  river  flows,  and  soon  crosses  the  rails  of  the  main  line  to  the 
West  (at  Suspension  Bridge).  The  river  is  now  left,  and  the  line  runs  out 
by  the  Academy  of  the  Holy  Angels,  and  returns  (in  3  -  4  M. )  to  the  edge 
of  the  profound  chasm  in  which  flows  the  Niagara,  white  with  rapids,  and 
contracted  into  a  narrow  channel.  After  2-3  M.,  in  which  the  train 
whirls  along  a  lofty  gallery  in  the  cliff  far  above  the  river,  the  Lewiston 
station  is  reached.  Stages  are  taken  to  the  steamboat-landing,  which  is 
nearly  1  M.  distant.  Lewiston  is  a  decadent  village  at  the  head  of  navi- 
gation, and  at  the  N.  base  of  the  mt.  range  through  which  the  Niagara 
has  cut  its  way  during  the  past  35,000  years  (Ltell).  A  fine  suspension 
bridge  was  built  thence  to  Queenston  in  1850,  with  a  span  of  1,045  ft., 
and  a  height  of  60  ft.,  but  was  capsized  during  a  heavy  gale. 

The  Tuacarora  Reservation  is  8  M.  E.  of  Lewiston,  and  contains  6,249  acres,  on 
which  live  872  Indians,  most  of  whom  are  engaged  in  making  knick-knacks  for  the 
shops  at  the  Falls.  The  Tuscaroras  were  driven  by  hostile  tribes  from  their  home 
In  North  Carolina  (in  1712),  and  migrated  to  New  York,  where  they  joined  the 
Iroquois  Confederation,  which  was  afterwards  known  as  the  Six  Nations. 

The  steamer  passes  out  into  the  stream  with  a  fine  retrospect  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Niagara  gorge  and  the  monument-crowned  Heights  of 
Queenston.  At  the  mouth  of  the  river,  the  American  Fort  Niagara  is 
passed  on  the  r.,  and  on  the  1.  are  the  ruins  of  Fort  (Jeorge,  the  strong 
works  of  the  Anglo-Canadian  Fort  Massasauga,  and  the  village  of  Niagara. 
The  great  summer  resort  called  The  Queen^s  Royal  Niagara  Hotel  fronts 
on  the  lake,  and  is  a  favorite  retreat  for  the  aristocracy  of  Toronto.  The 
steamer  now  enters  Lake  Ontario  (Ontario  is  an  Indian  word,  meaning 
"handsome  water"),  and  running  on  a  N.  W.  course  for  about  30  M., 
enters  the  harbor  of 

Toronto. 

Hotels.  —  •  Rossin  House.  $8  a  day ;  *  Queen's  Hotel,  FronfSt.,  $8 ;  Mansion 
House,  opposite  Rossin  House  (corner  King  and  York  Sts.),  $1.50-2;  Revere 
House,  King  St.,  small  and  comfortable,  $  1.50  ;  American  House,  Yonge  St., near 
the  G.  W.  station,  lately  rebuilt ;  Albion  Hotel ;  St.  James,  near  the  Union  Rail- 
way Statioa.    Restaurant  in  the  Union  Station. 


188     JRotOe  28. 


TORONTO. 


I!  I 


CMnrlages* — 25c.  a  course  in  either  of  the  city  divisions ;  60c.  from  one  *il- 
vision  to  another ;  SSI  an  hour.  Horse-cars  (5c.)  on  King,  Yonge,  and  Queen  Sts., 
to  Trinity  College  and  the  Lunatic  Asylum.  Stages  daily  from  the  Bay  Horse  Inn 
(Yonge  St.)  to  Thornhill,  Richmond  Hill,  Rouge  Hill,  Cooltsville,  and  Stouffville. 

Readlns-Booma*  —  At  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  rooms,  comer  of  Queen  and  Jamea 
Bts. ;  Mechanics'  Institute,  Church  and  Adelaide  Bts.  Post-Office,  on  Adelaide  St., 
at  the  head  of  Toronto. 

Amusements.  Royal  Lyceum  Theatre,  King  St. ;  Lectures  and  Music  at 
Music  Hall,  Adelaide  St. ;  Masonic  Hall,  Toront'^  St.  ;  Sliaftesbury  Hall,  Queen 
and  Jnmes  Sts. 

RallMrays.  —From  the  Union  Railway  Station,  on  Front,  between  York  and 
Simcoe  Sts.  Grand  Trunk,  to  Guelph,  48  M.  ;  to  Detroit,  231  M^  to  Goderich, 
133  M.  ;  to  Montreal,  8.S3  M.  :  to  Portland,  Me.,  628  M.  Great  Western,  to  Ham- 
ilton, 39  M.  ;  to  Niagara  Falls,  82  M.  ;  to  Detroit,  225  M.  ;  to  Southampton  (on 
Lake  Huron),  187  M.  Northern  Railway,  to  Orillia  (on  Lake  Simcoe),  86  M.  ;  to 
Meaford  (on  Georgian  Bay),  115  M.  Toronto,  Grey,  and  Bruce  Railway,  to  Mt. 
Forest,  88  M. ;  to  Owen  Sound  (on  Georgian  Bay),  178  M.  Toronto  and  Nipissing 
Railway,  to  Coboconk  (on  the  Victoria  Co.  Lakes),  88  M. 

Steamers* — The  Canadian  Navigation  Co.'s  Royal  Mail  Line  vessels  leave 
twice  daily,  for  Hamilton  and  Montreal.  The  boat  leaving  Hamilton  at  9  a.  m., 
leaves  Toronto  at  2  p.  m.  A  steamer  leaves  Toronto  once  daily  (twice  in  summer)  for 
Lewiston,  30  M.  S.,  connecting  with  trains  for  Buffalo.  The  Silver  Spray  leaves 
every  afternoon  for  Port  Dalhousie  and  St.  Catharine's. 

Toronto,  the  capital  of  the  Province  of  Ontario  and  the  "  Queen  City 
of  the  West,"  is  situated  on  a  low  sandy  plain  on  the  N.  W.  shore  of  Lake 
Ontario,  between  the  Don  and  Humber  Rivers.  The  harbor  is  safe  and 
commodious,  and  is  formed  by  a  sandy  bar  (7  M.  long  and  2J  M.  from  the 
shore)  which  ends  at  Gibraltar  Point,  opposite  the  city.  Toronto  is  the 
chief  city  of  Upper  Canada,  and  has  a  population  of  80,000,  with  a  valua- 
tion of  $  33,645,000.  The  population  in  1850  was  25,000.  There  are  54 
churches,  13  masonic  lodges,  and  10  hanks,  while  the  press  is  represented 
by  5  dailies,  14  weeklies,  and  26  monthlies.  The  exports  in  1871  were 
$  2,118,978,  and  the  imports  were  $  10,354,265.  There  are  3  grain-eleva- 
tors on  the  harbor-front,  with  a  storage  capacity  of  615,000  bushels.  The 
streets  are  level  and  well  paved,  and  run  N.  and  S.,  E.  and  W.,  crossing 
each  other  at  right  angles.  The  principal  streets  are  King  and  Yonge, 
the  latter  crossing  King  and  running  N.  for  33  M.,  with  fine  villas  in  the 
environs  of  the  city. 

The  *  University  College  of  the  Univ.  of  Toronto  (open  2-  5  p.  m.)  is 
situated  in  a  pleasant  park,  and  is  reached  (from  Queen  St. )  by  College 
Avenue,  4,000  ft.  long  and  120  ft.  wide,  with  double  rows  of  shade  trees. 
The  building  forms  3  sides  of  a  quadrangle  250  ft.  square  (the  length  of 
the  S.  front  being  384  ft.),  and  cost  over  $  500,000.  The  various  fronts 
have  a  unique  and  imposing  appearance,  and  the  whole  forms  the  best 
specimen  of  Norman  architecture  in  America.  In  the  centre  of  the  S. 
front  is  a  massive  tower  120  ft.  high,  under  v;hich  is  the  *  main  portal, 
which,  with  the  great  window  above,  is  a  perfect  flower  of  Norman  orna- 
mentation. Passing  through  the  entrance  one  enters  a  lofty  vestibule 
traversed  by  a  line  of  round  arches  upheld  by  stunted  columns  with  gro- 
tesquely cai'ved  capitals.    The  massive  walls  running  through  the  interior 


i  J  ' 


H 


om  one  «^l- 
^ueen  Sts., 
Horse  Inn 
Btouflfville. 
and  Jumes 
delaideSt., 

d  Music  at 
lall,  Queen 

tt  York  and 
>  Goderic'h, 
:n,  to  Ham- 
ampton  (on 
),  86  M. ;  to 
way,  to  Mt. 
id  Nipissing 

essels  leave 
a  at  9  A.  M., 
summer)  for 
Spray  leaves 

Queen  City 
ore  of  Lake 
is  safe  and 
VI.  from  the 
•onto  is  the 
ith  a  valua- 
liere  are  54 
represented 
1871  were 
•ain-eleva- 
Ishels.    The 
.,  crossing 
,nd  Yonge, 
jUas  in  the 

5  P.M.)  is 
I  by  College 
Ihade  trees. 

length  of 
fcous  fronts 
Is  the  best 

of  the  S. 

tiin  portal, 
lan  oma- 
vestibule 

I  with  gro- 

bie  interior 


TORONTO. 


JtauU  28.      189 


of  the  building,  and  the  stained  timber  roofs,  should  be  noticed.  A,  8tair> 
way  to  the  i.  from  the  entrance  leads  up  to  the  Library  (20,000  volumes), 
which  occupies  a  lai^e,  well-lighted  hall  with  a  pointed  oaken  roof.  The 
stairway  to  the  1.  leads  to  the  Museum,  a  hidl  similar  to  the  Library 
(75X36  ft.),  and  filled  with  natural-history  collections  in  well-arranged 
cabinets.  The  E.  building  is  reached  by  a  round  tower  in  which  stone 
stairs  ascend  by  a  range  of  stained-glass  windows  to  the  reading-room ;  and 
contains  the  Convocation  Hall,  a  spacious  wainscoted  chamber  ending 
in  a  stained-glass  window,  and  covered  by  a  pointed  timber  roof,  which 
rests  on  richly  carved  corbels  of  Caen  stooe.  A  broad  stairway  by  the 
door  leads  to  the  Senate  Hall,  whose  vestibule  is  lined  with  quaintly 
carved  Caen-stone  corbels.  The  W.  range  (336  ft.  long)  is  occupied  by  the 
rooms  of  the  students,  and  at  the  S.  W.  corner  is  the  round  building  of 
the  Laboratory.  The  E.  front  (260  ft.  long)  has  2  towers  topped  with 
spires,  in  one  of  which  is  a  Norman  portal  with  sturdy  columns  carved 
with  chevrons.  The  University  was  founded  in  1827,  with  an  endowment 
(from  King  William  IV. )  of  226,000  acres  of  land,  which  now  yields  a 
lai^e  revenue.  It  has  9  professors  and  5  lecturers,  Avith  32  scholarships. 
The  buildings  are  of  giay  rubble-stone,  trimmed  with  Ohio  and  Caen 
stone,  and  are  of  picturesquely  irregular  outlines.  To  the  E.  is  the 
*  Queen's  Park,  a  domain  of  50  acres,  which  has  been  leased  to  the  city  for 
999  years.  Beyond  the  E.  facade  is  a  sinuous  lakelet,  near  whose  S.  shore 
is  a  tall  brown-stone  monument,  with  4  marble  statues  in  the  upper  niches 
(2  military  and  2  allegorical  female  figures),  and  a  colossal  marble  statue 
of  Britannia  on  the  top.  *'  Canada  erected  this  monument  as  a  memorial 
of  her  brave  sons  who  fell  at  Limeridge,  or  died  from  wounds  received  in 
action,  oi  from  disease  contracted  in  the  service  whilst  defending  her 
frontier  in  .T-ine,  1866."  Near  the  entrance  to  the  Park  on  this  side  is  a 
fine  bronze  ^tue  of  Queen  Victoria  (by  Marshall  Wood),  at  whose  foot 
are  two  tropiiy  cannon  from  Inkermann  and  Sebastopol.  A  short  distance 
N.  of  the  University  is  Knox  College  (Presbyterian;  with  5  instructors), 
while  on  Clover  Hill  (E. )  is  St.  Basil's  Church,  under  monks  of  the  order 
of  Ba.siiians. 

*  St.  James  Cathedral  (Episcopal)  is  a  stately  edifice  on  the  comer  of 
King  and  CJhurch  Sts.  Tlie  architecture  is  the  early  English  Gothic,  and 
the  seclusion  of  the  building  among  umbrageous  grounds  adds  to  its 
attractiveness.  It  is  200  X  115  ft.,  with  a  height  in  the  nave  of  70 
ft.  (in  the  aisles,  35  ft.).  The  spire  is  316  ft.  high,  and  is  adorned 
with  a  great  illuminated  clock  from  tlie  Vienna  Exposition.  The  open 
timber-roof  is  well  adorned,  and  the  wood-work  of  the  pews  and 
choir-stalls  is  worthy  of  notice.  The  chancel  (semi-octagonal  ;  42  ft. 
deep)  has  lancet- windows  filled  with  stained  glass.  Nearly  opposite  the 
Cathedral  is  St.  Lawrence  Hall,  with  an  extensive  market-place,  S.  of 


I 

I     _. 

t     ' 
I 


"f 


190     JtouteiS. 


TORONTO. 


ii 


lifll'! 


Im 


which  is  the  City  Hall,  on  a  broad  t-4aare  near  the  harbor.  Just  N.  of 
the  Cathedral  is  the  College  of  Technology  (well  endowed  by  the  Govern-^ 
ment),  and  in  the  same  building  is  the  Mechanics'  Institute,  with  its 
library  (7,000  volumes),  halls,  and  reading-room.  Farther  N.  is  the  new 
and  elegant  J\ietr(^olitan  Wesleyan  Church  (on  Magill  Square),  having  a 
massive  tower  surmounted  by  graceful  pinnacles,  ^S^  Michael's  Cathe- 
dral  (Catholic)  is  near  by,  and  is  a  spacious  edifice  200  X  90  ft.,  with  an 
ornate  ceiling  66  ft.  above  the  floor  of  the  nave.  The  edifice  is  in  deco- 
rated Gothic  architecture,  and  has  broad  transepts  with  rost'-windows. 
The  spire  is  250  ft.  high.  To  the  W.  is  Trinity  Church,  secluded  in  a 
quiet  square;  and  a  short  distance  N.  is  the  Normal  School.  The  main 
building  is  in  Palladian  architecture,  and  contains  a  large  hall.  The 
Model  Schools  are  near  by,  and  so  is  the  Educational  Museum,  which,  be- 
sides many  other  curiosities,  contains  several  casts  from  ancient  statuary 
and  a  collection  of  Italian  and  Flemish  paintings.  These  buildings  are 
surrounded  by  7J  acres  of  grounds,  which  are  well  laid  out  and  adorned 
with  trees  and  flowers.  The  Masonic  Hall  is  on  Toronto  St.,  and  ha3  an 
ornate  front  of  Ohio  stone,  while  the  upper  story  is  occupied  by  the  lodge, 
chapter,  and  encampment  rooms.  At  the  head  of  Toronto  St.  is  the  new 
and  elegant  building  of  the  Post-Office.  In  the  district  bounded  by  King, 
York,  Front,  and  Nelson  Sts.  are  the  large  banks  and  wholesale  houses. 
*  Osgoode  Hall  is  a  stately  Government  building  (on  Queen  St.)  which  is 
used  for  the  sessions  of  the  4  Superior  Courts  of  the  Province,  and  also 
for  a  law  school.  It  is  in  classic  architecture,  with  fine  colonnades  and  a 
massive  and  fire-proof  interior.  The  cost  was  %  420,000.  Between  Front 
8t.  and  the  harbor,  and  the  most  conspicuous  object  as  the  city  is  ap- 
proached from  the  lake,  is  the  long  and  lofty  Union  Railway  Station, 
with  its  3  towers.  In  this  vicinity  (N.  W. )  are  the  old  Provincial  Parlia- 
ment Buildings  and  their  subordinate  oflSces.  The  Upper  Canada  College 
fronts  on  King  St.,  and  has  a  range  of  very  homely  buildings.  Trinity 
College  is  W.  of  the  city  (Queen  St.  horse-cars),  and  is  situated  in  pleas- 
ant grounds  (20  acres)  overlooking  the  bay.  It  is  in  the  15th-century 
pointed  style,  and  has  numerous  gables  and  turrets.  The  front  is  250  ft. 
long,  and  there  are  wings  running  back  53  ft.  It  was  founded  in  1851  by 
Bishop  Strachan.  In  this  vicinity  is  ^ae  spacious  building  of  the  Provin- 
cial Lunatic  Asylum,  surrounded  by  200  acres  of  ornamental  grounds,  S. 
of  which  is  the  Crystal  Palace,  an  extensive  exposition  building.  The 
General  Hospital  is  a  fine  building  on  tue  E.  of  the  city,  near  the  Victoria 
Medical  College.  The  House  of  Providence  (near  St.  Paul's,  on  Power 
St. )  is  carried  on  by  16  Sisters  of  P  Joseph  and  cares  for  240  orphans 
and  110  blind,  lame,  or  incurable  folk.  The  Loretto  Abbey  (45  nuns  ;  on 
Wellington  Place)  and  the  Convent  of  the  Most  Precious  Blood  (on  St. 
Joseph  St.)  are  interesting  Catholic  institutions. 


/v:„:: 


PORT  HOPE. 


JRmUtS,      191 


bN.  of 

Gk)vem-v 

m\h  its 

bhe  new 

[laviiig  a 

s  Cathe- 

with  an 

in  deco- 

irindows. 

dcd  in  a 

^e  main 

ill.    The 

hich,  be- 

statuary 

lings  are 

1  adorned 

id  ha3  an 

the  lodge, 

IS  the  new 

I  by  King, 

le  houses. 

,)  which  is 
and  also 

kdes  and  a 

een  Front 
ity  is  ap- 
Siation, 
A  Parlia- 
la  College 
Trinity 
in  pleas- 
|h-century 
i  250  it. 
1851  by 
le  Provin- 
[ounds,  S. 
ing.    The 
Victoria 
in  Power 
orphans 
luns  ;  on 
Id  (on  St 


Toronto  means  "  Trees  on  the  Water,"  and  was  a  name  applied  by  the  Indians 
to  the  low  groves  on  Gil)raltar  Point.  On  the  site  of  the  city  the  capital  of  Up- 
per Canada  waa  founded  by  Gov,  Simcoe  in  1797  ;  and  in  1813  it  had  900  inhabi- 
tants, with  fortifications  garrisoned  by  800  soldiers.  It  was  then  called  Little 
York,  and  was  a  post  of  much  importance.  An  American  fleet  under  Cora. 
Chauncey  appeared  off  the  harbor  (May  27,  1813),  and  opened  a  heavy  fire  on  the 
lines  ;  while  detachments  of  U.  8.  regulars  landed  and  carried  the  outworks  at 
the  point  of  the  bayonet  Ttie  British  abandoned  the  chief  fort  in  dismay,  having 
first  fixed  a  slow-match  to  tlie  great  magazine  (containing  500  barrels  of  powder 
and  an  immense  quantity  of  sliot  and  shells).  A  teiyible  explosion  followed,  in 
which  62  Americans  were  killed,  and  Gen.  Pike  and  180  were  wounded.  Of  the 
British  garrison,  300  men  were  captured,  and  149  were  killed  and  wounded. 
Just  after  the  capitulation  Gen.  Pike  died,  with  the  Britinh  fort-flag  under  his 
head.  The  Americans  burnt  the  public  buildings,  and  carried  off  tlio  supplies 
and  artillery,  and  a  frigate  which  was  taken  in  the  harbor.  York  was  evacuated 
by  tlie  victors  4  days  after  the  battle.  2  months  afterward  another  naval  attack 
was  made,  and  11  British  transports  and  6  cannon  were  taken. 

The  Royal  Mail  Steamers  of  the  Canadian  Navigation  Co.  leave  Hamil- 
ton daily  at  9  a.  m.  and  Toronto  at  2  p.  M.  They  reach  Port  Hope  at  6.50 
P.  M.  ;  Kingston  at  5. 30  A.  M.  ;  Gananoque  at  7  a.  m.  ;  Brockvilleat  9.30; 
Prescott  at  10-30;  Cornwall  at  1.20  P.  M.  ;  and  Montreal  at  6.45  P.  M. 
State-rooms  should  be  secured  as  early  as  po.ssiblo,  and  travellers  should 
be  awakened  on  leaving  Kingston  in  order  to  see  the  Thousand  Islands. 
The  Scarboro'  Highlands  are  passed  on  the  N.,  as  the  steamer  leaves 
Toronto,  and  the  first  landing  is  at  Darlington,  a  fine  harbor  and  but 
little  else,  2^  M.  S.  of  Bowmanville,  from  which  there  is  railroad  commu- 
nication to  Port  Perry,  on  the  wide  waters  of  Lake  Scugog.  Steaming 
out  again  upon  the  lake,  at  about  supper-time  the  boat  reaches  Port  Hope 
(St.  Lawrence  Hall),  a  picturesque  village  of  Du!;ham  County.  It  is  chiefly 
located  in  a  narrow  valley  which  is  overlooked  by  the  hill  of  Fort  Orton, 
and  is  surrounded  by  a  good  farming  country.  The  population  is  5,400; 
with  3  banks,  3  weekly  papers,  and  7  churches.  There  is  a  neat  park  of 
14  acres  at  the  E.  end  of  the  village,  and  on  the  hill  near  by  is  Trinity 
College  (an  academy  of  high  grade).  The  port  owns  a  large  fleet  of 
schooners,  which  are  engaged  in  freighting  lumber  and  grain.  A  daily 
steamer  runs  to  Charlotte  (Rochester),  N.  Y. ;  and  trains  on  the  Midland 
Railway  run  N.  W.  to  Beaverton  and  Orillia  {'oQ  and  87  M.),  thriving 
villages  on  Lake  Simcoe,  connecting  with  steamers  for  the  ports  on  Lakes 
Simcoe,  Muskoka,  and  Rousseau.  The  Midland  Railway  also  runs  N.  to 
Lakefield  (40  M.),  connecting  there  with  steamers  on  the  Salmon  Trout, 
Buckhom,  Chemung,  Pigeon,  and  Bald  Lakes,  "a  chain  of  beautifffl 
lakes  stretching  N.  half-way  to  the  Arctic  Sea." 

Cobonrg  is  7  M.  beyond  Port  Hope,  and  is  reached  by  late  twilight. 
It  is  the  capital  of  Northumberland  and  Durham  Cos.,  and  has  5,000  in- 
habitants, 7  churches,  2  banks,  and  3  weekly  papers.  The  buildings  of 
Victoria  College  are  in  the  N.  environs ;  and  the  museum  contains  over 
6,000  specimens,  including  a  small  Egyptian  collection.  It  is  a  imiversity 
(with  150  students)  under  control  of  the  Wesleyan  Clmrsih,  and  has  a 


^ 


> 


,  »•■ 


192     RouU  t8. 


KINGSTON. 


!fii 


law  school  at  Montreal  and  a  medical  college  at  Toronto.  There  are  9 
acres  of  grounds,  and  instruction  is  giten  by  5  professors.  Cohourg  is  in 
the  centre  of  a  fertUe  farming  country,  and  ships  annually  to  the  U.  S. 
80,000,000  ft.  of  lumber,  30,000  tons  of  iron  ore,  and  160,000  bushels  of 
grain.  There  are  daily  steamers  to  Charlotte,  N.  Y. ;  and  a  railway  runs 
N.  13  M.  to  Harwood,  on  the  many-islanded  Rice  Lake,  whence  steamers 
ply,  on  Bice  and  Marmora  Lakes,  to  Peterborough  (tri- weekly;  30  M. 
N.  W.)  and  Blairton.  After  leaving  Cobourg,  the  steamer  passes  well 
out  into  Lake  Ontario,  to  avoid  the  great  peninsular  county  of  Prince 
Edward,  N.  of  which  lies  the  Bay  of  Quints.  At  early  dawn  Amherst 
Island  is  passed,  and  by  daylight  the  broad  harbor  of  Kingston  is 
entered. 

Kingston  {British  American  Hotel)  is  the  chief  city  of  Frontenac  County, 
and  is  favorably  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Cataracqui  and  St.  Law- 
rence Rivers,  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  above  the  head  of  the 
Thousand  Islands.  It  is  a  city  of  13,000  inhabitants,  with  12  churches, 
2  small  cathedrals,  2  daily  papers,  and  numerous  mauufactorics.  The 
imports  in  1871  were  nearly  $  8,000,000,  and  the  exports  were  $1,435,000. 
In  the  W.  environs  is  the  Queen^s  University^  a  Presbyterian  institution, 
with  faculties  of  arts  and  theology;  near  which  is  the  Collegiate  Institute 
(incorporated  in  1792),,  The  Royal  College  of  Physicians  has  11  professors. 
The  Catholic  College  of  Regiopolis  has  attractive  buildings,  and  the  Black 
Nuns  and  Christian  Brothers  conduct  large  schools.  2  M.  W.  is  the  Pen- 
itentiary^ a  first-class  prison  with  5-600  convicts,  who  are  so  employed 
that  the  institution  is  nearly  self-supporting.  The  Rockwood  Lunatic 
Asylum  (3  -  400  inmates)  is  a  fine  building  pertaining  to  the  Dominion 
Government,  situated  near  the  Penitentiary.  Kingston  ranks,  as  a  fortress, 
next  to  Quebec  and  Halifax,  its  harbor  being  defended  by  strong  batteries, 
the  chief  of  which  is  Fort  Henry,  on  Point  Frederick  (the  Dominicm 
Military  School).  The  principal  streets  are  Princess  and  King,  and  the 
City  Hall  is  a  fine  building.  The  bay  is  very  broad  and  deep,  sheltered 
by  Wolfe  and  Garden  Islands ;  and  there  are  provisions  for  making  here 
an  extensive  naval  depot  in  time  of  war.  At  Kingston  was  built  the 
powerful  liritish  fleet  which  played  a  bloodless  and  amusing  (but  costly) 
game  of  hide-and-seek  with  Chauncey's  American  squadron  (see  page 
168).  Tlie  city  was  founded  by  De  Courcelles  in  1672,  and  was  subse- 
quen\,iy  named  Fort  Frontenac.  It  was  occupied  by  the  British  in  1762, 
and  became  the  capital  of  Upper  Canada. 


The  Grand  Trank  Railway  station  is  2  M.  N.  of  the  city  (carriages,  25c. ;  50c. 
at  night),  and  has  a  large  restaurant  where  through  passengers  dine  (20  min.; 
60c.).  Ferry-steamers  run  to  Garden  Island  4  times  daily,  and  to  Cape  Vincent, 
N.  Y,,  where  a  connection  is  made  with  the  Borne,  W.,  and  O.  R.  R.  (see  page 
160]).  A  railroad  is  being  built  to  Pembroke,  148  M.  N.  on  the  Ottawa  River ; 
and  the  Bideau  Canal  runs  from  Kingston  to  the  city  of  Ottawa. 


.•v. 


■^C*J 


"here  are  9 
bourg  is  in 
>  the  U.  S. 
jushels  of 
ilway  runs 
i  steamera 
ly;  30  M. 
asses  well 
of  Prince 
I  Amherst 
iugston  is 

ic  County, 
I  St.  Law- 
ad  of  the 
churches, 
rics.    The 
1,436,000. 
istitution. 
Institute 
trofessors. 
the  Black 
I  the  Pew- 
employed 
I  Lunatic 
Dominion 
%  fortress, 
batteries, 
Domini(»i 
r,  and  the 
sheltered 
king  here 
built  the 
it  costly) 
[see  page 
as  subse- 
in  1762, 


^  THOCSANB  ISLAND.     ^«^«.      ^93 

Tk^    ran. 


"  The  Thonaand  1,1..  th  ^J"**  '^'•ttsand  Islands. 


WmplTtKJ;i«.  the  Th^ 

F'^whe^A'Sfent  Shade 


ton  commences  th«f  .„>.    ,  ..  '''^"''«» PUyd." 


•^-t  be,o„a  Kingston  comment  J^  ""  "' "^^"----' 

1  800  i.i     ,         ^°™®  Peaces  of  7  M  •  ^.JT  *  extends  for  40  M 

•»»oW  islands  and  i<jl.^f o     m,  '  *""  ^'s  surfacp  i«  i...«i      ,         '* 

the  most  part  w«  I  ?"'"  ^«  "^  «very  .hape  anV  '"  ^^^  °^'«' 

"  jJcin;  weu  covered  wif ii  f^u  ^  fijupe  and  size,  and  ar^  *- 

nigged  masses  of  rock     Th  '^^^'  ^^^^^  many  of  i\Z  ^°' 

turned  into  its  b^Wdv        T'^  ^'"  ^"^^^^^  whL  thl  f  r"''  ^"* 

feamer  passes  thrlth  the"S  '°'"''  ''  ^°^«°««  ^^  th^extt   '  T  '"' 
kaleidoscopic  chanl  "''"'°"^  ^^^^nels  of  the  ar^K?  ,       '    "^^  *h« 

into  view,  shift  tt?    ?'"''  ""^  ^^°«P  ^^er  group  of?  ^^f.>°'  *^°"«t«nt 

ters  open  if  ^Ut:  'tT  T ^^^^^^  ^"^  -  ^  LtSTtt '''''''  '"^^ 
passes  within  biscuTt'tofrAf  "^''^^^"^'^ith  the  7Z7nt^^T'"'^''" 
nels,  with  ft«     •  ''""-*oss  of  the  islands,  and  th^r.  1  !*"^®"*'  *he  boat  often 

Amherst  led  tte«epic^  '' ^es  J^^SZ^'J^JI'^tor  of  the  ptin^^i'^  J^trr^d? 
It  consisted  S  10  Sfi'^'"^"«^'^arn.ybTtSs^n^r^^         In  AiSSst  S't**"^ 


9  «^ings  Garden."    The  fort  com- 


194     RmUeta, 


ALEXANDRIA  BAY. 


manded  the  S.  channel,  and  was  partly  cut  in  the  rocky  ledges^  the  stone 
being  used  for  an  escarpment.  In  1775  it  was  held  by  a  disciplined  band 
of  Mohawks,  and  in  1812  it  was  taken  and  destroyed  by  the  Americans 
The  island  contains  1,274  acres,  and  has  a  lighthouse  on  the  W.;  while  on 
the  S.  are  the  ruins  of  the  fort  and  the  graves  of  the  garrison.  Grenadier 
Island,  the  rendezvous  of  Wilkinson's  army  in  1813,  is  now  a  dairy-farm. 
The  Cape  Vincent  shores  were  settled  by  a  group  of  notable  families  of 
French  refugees,  headed  by  the  Count  de  Real,  Napoleon's  Chief  of 
Police;  and  this  was  to  have  been  the  home  of  Napoleon,  if  he  had 
succeeded  in  escaping  from  France  after  the  battle  of  Waterloo.  The 
steamer  passes  through  the  clusters  of  islets  between  Howe's  Island  and 
the  mainland,  and  stops  at  Gananoque,  a  flourishing  village  with  5  churches 
and  several  factories.  It  is  situated  at  the  outlet  of  the  Gananoque  River, 
and  is  2^  M.  from  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway.  Many  summer  visitors  re- 
main here ;  while  others  cross  in  the  steani-ferry  to  the  American  village 
of  Clayton  (see  page  159),  an  important  lumber-station  at  the  mouth  of 
French  Creek.  Many  vessels  have  been  built  at  Clayton ;  and  here  the 
lumber  which  is  brought  by  vessels  from  the  upper  lakes  is  made  into 
rafts,  and  floated  to  Quebec.  The  fishing  in  this  vicinity  is  very  fine; 
including  pike,  black  bass,  and  enormous  maskinonge.  Steamers  ply 
between  Cape  Vincent,  Clayton,  and  Alexandria  Bay.  Passing  out  from 
Gananoque,  the  steamer  now  enters  an  archipelago  of  small  islets  ex- 
tending to  Wells  Island.  Alexandria  Bay,  a  village  of  New  York,  S. 
of  Wells  Island,  is  the  chief  summer  resort  of  the  Thousand  Islands. 
It  has  two  fine  hotels,  — the  *  Thousand  Islands  House  (600  guests),  and 
the  *Crossmon  House  (overlooking  the  lake  and  islands),  with  a  large 
flotilla  of  pleasure-boats.  "  The  Church  of  the  Thousand  Isles  "is  a  stone 
building  with  an  Italian  campanile,  built  by  the  efforts  of  Dr.  Bethune. 
The  islets  near  ihe  Bay  are  adorned  with  pleasant  villas,  in  one  of  which 
(owned  by  Mr.  Pullman,  of  palace-car  fame)  President  Grant  was  enter- 
tained in  the  summer  of  1873.  The  village  is  very  small,  and  is  built  on 
a  pile  of  gneiss-Yocks  by  the  river-side.  The  fishing  among  the  islands  is 
very  good,  and  skilful  boatmen  are  furnished  if  required.  7-10  M.  S.  E. 
are  the  romantic  Lakes  (Clear,  Crystal,  Mud,  Butterfield,  and  Lake  of 
the  North)  of  Theresa,  with  good  fishing,  and  shores  and  islands  aboimd- 
ing  in  rare  minerals. 


the  stone 
ned  band 
mericans 
while  on 
[grenadier 
liry-farm. 
fnilies  of 
Chief  of 
f  he  had 
loo.  The 
Bland  and 
churches 
ue  River, 
sitors  re- 
in village 
nouth  of 
here  the 
(lade  into 
irery  fine, 
mers  ply 
out  from 
slets  ex- 
York,  S. 
Islands. 
:sts),  and 
li  a  large 
is  a  stone 
Bethune. 
of  which 
as  enter- 
built  on 
slands  is 
M.  S.  E. 
Lake  of 
abound- 


ALEXANDKIA  BAY 


The  h  -*"»*» «y.   I\f4  ^ 

Martin  V.n    ""'  ^""'y  -«'  visited  by  W  H  «       '  '"•""'"•<«'  >"">■ 

(86  M  )     Thn  ,,,:*'    "'^"""^^t  whence  daily  steamh^./  "'*  »nme 

vided  wi  h  1  JT'°'  *^"°^  ^'  the  Bay.    T,7e  1!'"''  "*""«'"»  between 
"  '«  claimed  that  there  are     onn  •       .    ^'^"'^  «"^  ice-cream  saloon 

der  cultivation.    It  is  divided  into  f„„  '  """"''  "^  "'»«''  «  now  „„ 

n.ns.  »„d  between  t.,e.e  .eeH«„, -1  r"?'  """"""^  "■''  »  -"^ZZ 
fi-om  the  river  by  another  i-C"  lid     -^birr""  °'  '""  "«'-•  -'off 

C«".P-Mee.in,  CJ^Z,  o^rlntj  •?"""  ^"^  '^^  t"-      -Cnd 
cent  promontories,  on  the  N  Ivork  ni:;  ir^f  r' "''"''"'^-    TOea-^ 

rim  *"'""^««'"«-  '     ° "'"  ''<'™  """"pi^ 

foe."  We'^piorr:!  freest  an  r^''"^i  "■""S"  -»«  ^'M-'hin.  i. 


I 


f 


i 


194  6.    Route  is. 


ALEXANDRIA  BAY. 


pound  muscnlonge,  twenty-pound  bass,  and  six-pound  pickerel  have  been 
cuuglit  in  these  waters.  The  scusons  for  ^liooting  wild  fowl  are  late  spring 
fiiul  early  fall,  when  ducks  abound  in  this  vicinity.  Many  visitors  also 
amuse  themselves  by  visi;  .ng  tlie  historic  localities  in  the  vicinity,  guided 
by  the  skilful  oarsmen  of  the  village. 


"  No  Ti'jtal  Virgin  guards  their  groves, 
No  Cupid  breathes  of  Cyprian  loves, 
No  satyr's  form  at  eve  is  seen, 
No  dryad  peeps  the  trees  between. 
No  Venus  rises  from  their  shore, 
No  loved  Adonia,  red  with  gore, 
No  pale  Endyniion,  woo<hI  to  Rleep, 
No  brave  Leander  breasts  their  deep, 
No  Ganymede,  no  Pleiades,  — 
Theirs  are  a  New  World's  memories. 

*'  The  flag  of  France  first  o'er  them  hung, 
The  mass  was  said,  the  vespers  sung. 
The  freres  of  .lesus  hailed  the  strands, 
As  blessed  Virgin  Mary's  lands ; 
And  red  men  mutely  heard,  surprised, 
*Their  lieathen  names  all  christianised. 
Next  floated  a  banner  with  cross  and  crown, 
'T  was  Freedom's  eagle  plucked  it  down, 
.    Retaining  its  pure  and  crimson  dyes 

With  the  stars  of  their  own,  their  native  skies. 

"  There  St.  Lawrence  gentlest  flows, 
There  the  Fouth  wind  softest  blows. 
There  the  lilies  whitest  bloom, 
There  the  birch  hath  leafiest  gloom, 
There  the  red  deer  feed  in  spring. 
There  doth  glitter  wood-duck's  wing, 
There  leap  the  muscalonge  at  morn. 
There  the  loon's  night  song  is  borne, 
There  is  the  fisherman's  paradise. 
With  trolling  skifTat  red  sunrise. 

"  The  Thousand  Isles,  the  Thousand  Isles, 
Their  charm  from  every  care  beguiles  ; 
Titian  alone  hath  grace  to  paint 
The  triumph  of  their  patron  saint. 
Whose  waves  return  on  memory's  tide ; 
Jja  Salle  and  Piquet  side  by  side, 
Proud  Frontenac  and  bold  Champlain 
There  act  their  wanderings  o'er  again  ; 
And  while  their  golden  sunlight  smiles, 
Pilgrims  shall  greet  thee.  Thousand  Isles !  " 


In  July,  1813,  the  small  American  war- vessels  Nepttine  and  Fox  captured  a  bri- 
Kide  of  British  batteaux  off  these  shores  They  were  pursued  into  ^mnberry 
Creek,  and  succeeded,  after  a  shaii)  skiiinish,  in  repulsing  the  enemy  with  con- 
siderable loss.  In  Nov.,  1813,  the  vanguard  of  Wilkinson's  anny  was  attacked  by 
British  gunboats  near  Bald  Island  (2  M.  below  the  Bay).  Some  confusion  was 
occasioned  at  first,  but  the  assailants  were  soon  put  to  flight.  In  June,  1814,  a 
party  of  American  naval  officers  and  men  suri)ri3ed  the  British  gunboat  Black 
Snake,  near  the  Bay,  and  carried  her  by  boarding.  Fi'equent  cruises  were  made 
among  the  islands  by  the  smaller  vessels  of  Com.  Chauncey's  fleet,  and  by  a  Brit- 
ish flotilla  composed  of  the  Prince  Regent,  10,  Earl  qf  Moira,  18,  and  Duke  of 


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-rrrr  ^^ «—  "'™'^'i:  ^'.r;  77 '"  '^ 
" »'  -T,sr.rs^:  ir^  ■''-«  '^-  o?^^!':^' 

-ekly  pape  "    i;?:'"r  »'«'««>  inhabit  ^irr  t°  '^'*«^ 
the  iJmTn.  .  '  ""  »  '^'  -^stag  from  III  *  ^  '"'»"='"•.  "d  2 

ft.  of  lumL      ^  T'"  ''"Praents  to  the  no       "■'  "^  ""■•'"ok. 

™»»  /toTerth  Z*^  ««  place,  and  the  BrockvXa«?^„''™"l '^"^ 
earlj  20  M.  long,    (j^e  Utica  i  Black  ffilpV"  ™'»*<»^ti„g  ,heet 


3;  Capt.  Poi^vth  anH  on^-^^8sel  J«iia  and  th«  n^lt?^? 


Below  Brpckville  ,h,  .p,...       .  ° ''^^"•en'"™  fl-om  „ap! 


Below  B^olviUe  th-  t.  ^°'"'"™  *°"  "-i? 

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Sdfflices 

Corporation 


33  VVFST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14SS0 

(716)  872-4503 


6^ 


196     HouU  t8. 


OODENSBUBO. 


\\ 


Wbodnum  ffouae).  This  dty  is  at  the  oonflnence  of  the  St.  Lawrefioe  and 
Oswegatchie  Rivers,  and  is  regnlariy  laid  out  and  handsomely  tridlt,  its 
streets  being  so  completely  lined  with  trees  as  to  have  won  for  it  the 
iame  of  <'The  Maple  City."  The  U.  S.  Post-Office  occupies  a  new  and 
elegant  building  (with  a  high  dome),  which  cost  $300,000.  On  the  W. 
of  the  Oswegatchie,  and  near  the  site  of  Fort  Presentation,  is  the  great 
@t.  Jean  Baptiste  Church.  There  are  nearly  2  M.  of  wharves  along  the 
water-front,  terminated  on  the  E.  by  an  immense  grain-elevator.  10^000,000 
busheli^  of  Western  grain  pass  this  point  yearly,  en  route  to  New  England. 
The  city  has  peculiar  commercial  advantages  from  being  at  the  foot  of 
sloop  navigation  on  the  great  lakes ;  and  connections  are  formed  with 
Central  N.  Y.  and  New  England  by  efBcient  railroads.  Extensive  flour 
and  lumber  mills  are  located  here.    The  population  is  over  12,000. 

*' 80  Sept,  1748.  The  AbM  Piquet  departs  from  Quebec  for  Fort  Frontenac. 
He  is  to  look  in  the  neighborhood  of  that  fort  for  a  location  best  adapted  for  A 
Tillage  for  the  Iroouois  of  the  Five  Nations,  who  propose  to  embrace  C9iristian>- 
ity."  {Parit  Doe.,  JC.)  He  chose  the  present  site  of  Osdensbuig  for*  his  settle- 
ment,  and  built  a  stone  house  and  a  5-gun  fort,  which  he  named  £a  Presentation, 
in  a  situation  "where  a  beautiftil  towu  could  hereafter  be  built."  In  1749  the 
settlement  was  destroyed  by  hostile  Mohawks,  but  was  speedily  reoccupied  and 
garrisoned.  Piquet  erected  a  4-towered  fort,  with  18  cannon,  under  whose  pro- 
tection clustered  5  Indian  villages,  with  8,000  inhabitants.  "  People  saw  with 
astonishment  several  villages  start  up  all  at  once ;  a  convenient,  habitable,  and 
pleasantly  situated  fort ;  vast  clearances  covered  almost  at  the  jame  time  with 
the  finest  maiase.  More  than  600  families,  still  all  infidels,  who  congregated  there, 
soon  tendered  this  settlement  the  most  beaatiftd,  the  most  charmmg,  and  the 
most  abimdant  of  the  colony."  (LettresCurieuseaetEd'Ulantes.'i  In  1754 -58  "these 
new  children  of  God,  of  the  King,  and  of  M.  Piquet,  fought  valiantly  under  the 
Abba's  command  at  the  battles  on  Lake  Ge^/ige  and  at  Fort  Duquesne  ^tts- 
burghX  Duquesne  said  "the  Abbi  Picquet  is  Worth  5  regiments  ;  and  Mont- 
calm called  him  "the  patriarch  of  the  Five  Nations."  Uocquart  and  others 
speak  of  him  as  "  the  Apostle  of  the  Iroduois  " ;  while  the  Anglo-Americans  pre- 
ferred the  title,  "the  Jesuit  of  the  West.  He  was  an  Abbi  of  the  order  of  St. 
Sulpioe,  a  Doctor  of  the  SOrbonne,  and  King's  Missionary  and  Prefect  Apostolic 
to  Canada.  After  the  Conquest  of  Canada  in  1760,  he  led  25  Frenchmen  in  an  ad:- 
venturous  flight  up  the  imexplored  great  lakes,  tiience  descending  the  Mississippi 
to  New  Orleans.  He  was  received  with  great  pomp  at  Kome,  and  became  Canon 
of  Bourg  (France),  residing  at  the  Abbey  of  Cluny  until  his  death,  in  1781.  The 
Indian  settlement  dwindled  away  until  early  in  the  present  century,  when  it  was 
broken  up. 

La  Presentation  was  garrisoned  by  3  royal  regiments  in  1^776,  and  an  American 
attack  was  repulsed  in  1779.  It  was  held  by  the  British  "to  protect  the  fur- 
trade,"  until  1796,  when  it  was  given  up  under  Jay's  Treaty.  In  Oct,  1812,  a 
British  attack  on  the  place  was  repulsed,  and  one  gunboat  was  sunk ;  but  in 
Feb.,  1813,  the  Olengary  Light  Infantry  crossed  from  nescott  on  the  ice,  and  after 
losing  56  men,  drove  out  the  militia,  and  carried  off  11  cannon  and  a  large  amount 
of  stores.  The  village  was  incorporated  in  1817,  and  was  named  for  Samuel  Ogden, 
its  proprietor.  In  Nov.,  1838.  a  large  number  of  adventurous  men  congregated 
here,  under  the  command  of  one  Von  Schultz  (a  Polish  i-eiugee),  and  fortified 
themselves  in  a  stone  windmUl  on  the  river-bank  1  M.  below  Prescott.  The  ob- 
ject was  to  fUmish  a  centre  and  rallying-point  for  the  discontented  Canadians, 
and  to  precipitate  a  general  revolt  throughout  the  provinces.  The  British  regu- 
lars and  loyal  militia  soon  attacked  the  invaders  by  cannc'<ade,  bui>  the  massive 
walls  of  the  windmill  were  proof  against  field-artillery;  and  an  assault  was  or- 
dered. The  storming  party  was  repulsed  with  heavy  loss  by  the  180  men  in  the 
mill,  and  then  regular  siege  operations  were  begun,  while  retreat  by  the  river  was 
cut  off  by  gunboats.    In  a  few  days  the  starving  rebels  surrendered,  and  Von 


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,  and  the 
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4- 


PRESCOTT. 


naiUetS.     197 


Schnltie  and  0  men  were  hong,  while  00  more  were  transported  to  Van  Dteman's 
lisnd :  fid  were  pardoned ;  18  were  released,  and  others  died  of  their  wounds.  It 
wn   the  last  act  of  the  so-called  Patriot  War. 

i'rescott  is  221  M.  from  Toronto  and  112  M.  ftom  Montreal,  by  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway ;  and  54  M.  fh>m  Ottawa,  bv  Route  15.  Besides  being  a  regular  station 
of  the  Royal  Mail  steamers,  it  is  visited  daily  by  boats  from  and  for  other  river- 
ports.  Ogdensburg  is  118  M.  ftom  Rouse's  Point,  by  the  O.  &  L.  C.  R  R  (Route 
14) :  and  142  M.  flrom  Rome  and  129  M.  firom  Oswego,  by  the  R.,  W.  &  O.  R.  R. 
(Route  25X    Steamers  leave  for  various  rlver-porls  daily.  " 

The  propellers  of  the  Northern  Transportation  Co.  leave  daily  at  1  p.  u.  for  the 
Western  Lakes.  The  tour  of  the  lakes  by  this  line  costs  but  little,  and  is  often 
undertaken  by  travellers  whose  time  is  not  much  limited.  There  is  but  slight 
danger  of  rough  water  (except  occasionally  for  a  few  hoars  on  Lake  Erie),  and  the 
boats  remain  several  hours  in  each  of  the  lake-ports,  giving  ample  time  for  visit- 
ing their  principal  attractions.  The  times,  ports,  and  fiues  ffpm  Visdensbuig 
(including  state-rooms  and  meals  for  flrst-class  passengers)  are,'—  at  Brockville, 
Can.,  at  2.15  p.  u.,  1st  day,  remaining  15  rain. ;  at  Alexandria  Bay,  N.  T.  (•  1.50), 
6  p.  M.,  15  min. ;  at  Clayton,  N.  Y.  (#2),  at  6.45  p.  m.,  15  min.  ;  at  Cape  Vincent, 
N.  Y.  (12.50),  at  10  P.  M.,  80  min. ;  at  Oswego,  N.  Y.  (|8),  at  4.30  a.  m.,  2d  day, 
6  Iiours  ;  at  Port  Dalhousie,  Can.  ($6),  at  3  a.  m.,  8d  dav,  1  hr. ;  at  St  Catharine's, 
Can.  (90.50X  at  7  A.  M.  The  propeller  now  enters  the  locks  of  the  Wellxind  Canal, 
and  takes  0  hrs.  to  go  to  Thorold,  2  M.  distant  Carriages  are  in  waiting  to  con- 
vey passengers  to  Niagara  Fails,  8  -9  M.  distant  ($  1  each  for  parties  of  4  or  more 
to  go  and  return).  4  hrs.  are  allowed  at  the  Falls,  the  carriages  return  over  the 
Lundy's  Lane  battle-field;  and  the  boat  is  boarded  at  Thorold.  Leaving  Thorold 
at  4. 10  p.  M. ,  Port  Colborne,  at  the  S.  end  of  the  canal,  is  reached  at  7  p.  m.  Cleveland. 
Ohio  (fare  from  Ogdensburg.  9 10),  is  entered  at  9  a.  m.,  the  4th  day,  and  the  boat 
remains  tliere  4  hrs.  At  Detroit,  Mich.  (910),  8  a.  m.,  5th  day,  remaining  2-8 
hrs. :  at  Port  Huron,  5.  p.  u. ;  at  Duncan  City,  10  a.  m.,  eth  day  ;  at  Olen  Haven, 
Mich.  (S 15).  at  6  p.  M.,  6th  day ;  at  Milwaukee,  Wis.,  at  9  a.  m..  7th  day  (remain- 
ing 4  hrs.):  and  at  Chicago.  111.  (115),  at  8  p.  m.,  on  the  7th  day.  The  2d-clas8 
fEtres  (separate  cabin)  are  )  the  above  rates,  but  provisions  are  not  fUmished. 

As  the  Royal  Mail  Steamer  passes  out  from  Prescott,  the  St.  Jean  Bap- 
tiste  Ghurch,  the  Post-Otiice  dome,  and  the  railway  grain-elevator  are  seen 
conspicuously  in  Ogdensburg.  Fort  Wellington  is  on  the  1.,  and  the 
historic  Windmill  Point  is  soon  passed.  About  3  M.  below  Prescott 
Chimney  Island  is  seen.  This  was  anciently  called  Oraconenton  by  tho 
Indians,  and  was  named  Isle  Royale  by  the  French,  who  built  upon  it 
Fort  Levis,  mounting  35  cannon.  In  1760  it  was  invested  by  Amherst's 
army  of  10,000  men  and  was  assailed  by  his  fleet.  After  5  days  of  bom- 
bardment, the  fortress  surrendered,  about  100  men  having  fallen  on  both 
sides.  The  island  was  a  rendezvou!^  fox'  the  Indian  bands  who  harried  N. 
Y.  during  the  Revolution;  but  it  has  long  been  deserted,  and  its  sturdy 
ruins  have  given  it  the  name  of  (chimney  Island.  To  ^e  S.  on  the  N.  Y. 
shore  is  Indian  Point,  where  the  Oswegatchie  Indians  dwelt;  and  where 
the  Count  de  Frontenac  encamped  with  his  forces  in  1673,  when  he  sent 
F^nelon  on  a  mission  to  the  Iroquois.  On  the  N.  Y.  shore  is  Red  Mills, 
a  village  of  Lisbon  town,  and  off  Point  Cardinal  (on  the  N.)  the  first  rapid 
is  entered  {Gallopes  Rapids).  The  channel  next  leads  between  Point  Iro- 
quois (N.)  and  Ogden  Island.  The  Rapide  de  Plat  is  then  descended, 
and  the  steamer  passes  the  Canadian  village  of  Morrisburgh,  fi'om  which 
a  ferry-boat  runs  frequently  to  Waddington,  N.  Y.  30  M.  below  Ogdens- 
bui^gh  is  Louisville,  N.  Y.,  where  the  American  steamers  stop.    Stages 


198     EouUtS,        LONG  SAULT  RAPIDS. 


\' 


ran  from  this  point  to  XuMiia  Spring!  (7  M.),  which  are  also  nached 
by  stage  from  Brasher  Falls  (10  M.)  or  Pot  lam  Junction  (14i  M.),  on 
Bonte  li.    <See  page  128.) 

A  short  distance  below  Gooseneck  Island  (and  on  the  N.  shore)  is  Chry$Uf'$ 
Farm,  where  an  American  army  of  6,000  men  was  attacked,  Nov.  11, 1813,  by  a 
British  force.  The  Americans  were  commanded  by  the  incompetent  Wilkinson, 
and  had  descended  the  river  ftom  Lake  Ontario  to  attack  Montreal  After  losing 
839  men  in  the  flght  (British  loss,  196),  Wilkinson  retreated,  gave  up  the  advance, 
and  retired  to  winter-quarters  at  French  Mills  (Fort  Covington),  where  tenible 
losses  were  occasioned  oy  sickness  and  lack  of  supplies.  The  wiater-encampment 
cost  the  Republic  $800,000,  and  was  followed  by  an  imbecile  retreat  in  which  vast 
amounts  of  stores  were  destroyed.  The  collapse  of  this  expedition  was  attributed 
to  the  failure  of  Gen.  Wade  Hampton  (of  S.  Carolina)  to  bring  up  his  division  of 
the  army  in  time. 

The  steamer  next  passes  Farran's  Point,  and  stops  at  Dickinson's  Landing 
(N.  shore).  At  this  point  begin  the  Long  Sanlt  Bapidi»  which  are  9  M. 
long,  with  a  fall  of  over  48  ft,  and  are  divided  by  a  chain  of  islands  into 
the  S.  Channel  (the  usual  route)  and  the  N.  CShannel  (formerly  called 
the  Lost  CShannel,  from  a  belirf  that  it  led  to  inevitable  destruction). 
The  rapids  are  not  continuous,  and  reaches  of  level  water  alternate  with 
white  and  billowy  inclines.  The  passage  of  a  lumbei'-raft  down  these 
wild  waters  affords  an  exciting  spectacle,  and  caHs  forth  great  skill  and 
activity  on  the  part  of  its  crew.  Boats  ascend  this  incline  by  means  of 
the  C!omwall  Canal  (N.  shore),  which  is  11  M.  long. 

In  1608,  "  in  a  skiff  with  a  few  Indians,  Champlain  essayed  to  pass  these  rapids, 
but  all  efforts  proved  vain  against  the  foaming  surges,  and  he  was  forced  to  re- 
turn."  The  first  steamboat  to  descend  was  guided  by  an  Indian  (in  1840),  and 
Indians  are  still  flrequently  used  as  pilots.  No  fatal  accident  has  ever  happened 
to  steamers  in  the  rapids,  as  great  power  is  applied  to  the  steering  apparatus  and 
a  strong  gang  of  men  manoeuvres  it. 

At  the  foot  of  the  rapids  is  Coniwall  {Dominion  Hotel),  a  laige  village 
which  was  settled  by  American  loyalists  and  disbanded  Hessians  after  the 
Bevolution.  It  has  2,500  inhabitants  and  5  churches,  and  runs  several 
cotton-mills  with  the  rapids'  water-power.  The  Grand  Trunk  station  is 
1  M.  N.,  and  3  lines  of  steamers  tston  at  the  port  A  ferry-boat  also  runs 
to  8t.  Begis,  a  large  Indian  villt       i  the  S.  shore. 

The  Sachem  Monoco,  with  40t'  wsi.iurs,  attacked  Groton,  Mass.,  in  1676  (see 
Osgood's  New  England,  page  105),  and  carried  away  to  Canada  (among  other  cap- 
tives) 2  young  children  of  the  Tarbell  family.  Having  been  brought  up  in  Indian 
ways,  in  due  time  they  marririd  squaws ;  but  being  radical  in  their  ideas,'  they  were 
forced  to  leave  the  tribal  vili<)tge.  Going  forth  with  their  families,  they  founded  a 
new  home  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  Hither  came  Father  Gordon  in  the  year  of  the 
Conquest  (1760),  leading  a  colony  of  Christian  Mohawks ;  and  he  named  the  new 
village  and  the  river  near  it  St.  Begia,  in  honor  of  a  canonized  Jesuit  missionary^ 
to  the  poor  (bom  in  Languedoc  in  1597).  The  St.  Regis  Chief  Louis  (bom  at 
Saratoga  in  1740,  wounded  at  the  Battle  of  Lake  George  m  1756,  and  a  combatant 
at  tibe  defeats  of  Braddock  and  Abercrombie)  visited  Washington  at  Cambridge 
in  Aug.,  1775,  and  received  firom  him  a  silver  pipe  inscribed  "G.  YK"  In  Jan., 
1776,  he  led  a  party  of  warriors  to  Cambridge,  and  was  commissioned  colonel  in 
the  Continental  amiy.  He  rendered  valuable  service  in  the  Revolution  and  the 
War  of  1812,  and  was  buried  at  Buffklo,  with  military  honors,  in  1814.  Oct.  12, 
181%  the  Troy  militia  surprised  and  captured  at  St.  Regis  a  company  of  BriUsh 


LACHINB  RAPIDS. 


XouUKS.      199 


village 
ter  the 
several 
,tion  is 
ISO  runs 


ley  were 
tmded  a 
of  the 
le  new 
jsionarjr 
[bom  at 
ibatant 
abridge 
[n  Jan., 
lonel in 
and  the 
Oct.  12. 
British 


ngalan,  and  were  soon  afterward  captnred  thenuelres,  and  exolmnged  ftvr  their 
whilom  prisoners.  In  1896  an  envoy  flrom  St.  Regis  visited  Rome,  and  was  pre- 
sented by  the  Pope  with  some  rich  silver  plate  and  Jewels  for  the  church  (all  of 
which  were  afterwards  stolen  in  N.  Y.  City) :  while  Charles  X.  of  France  gave 
him  2  costly  paintings  (St  R^s  preaching,  and  St.  Francis  Xavler  with  St. 
Louis),  which  are  now  in  the  church.  In  1848  a  Methodist  church  was  estab* 
lished,  as  the  firuit  of  a  revival  Since  the  War  of  1812  the  tribe  has  been  divided 
into  the  British  and  the  American  parties.  The  national  boundary-line  passes 
through  the  village,  and  the  Indians  receive  annuities  flrom  both  governments  (by 
ancestry,  and  not  with  regard  to  location).  The  i-eservation  includes  22  square 
M.,  and  is  mostly  held  in  common,  the  people  living  by  hunting  and  Ashing,  and 
by  making  moccasons.  baskets,  and  bead-work.  The  village  is  strikingly  dlrtv, 
and  abounds  in  puppies  and  children  (the  population  is  increasing).  The  Cath- 
olic  Church  is  a  venerable  structure,  with  walls  4  ft.  thick,  and  an  interior  well 
adorned,  and  containing  the  royal  paintings.  The  preaching  is  in  Mohawk,  and 
the  festival  of  Corpus  Christi  is  observed  with  great  pomp.  Hoganaburg  (small 
inn)  is  a  hamlet  2  M.  distant,  on  the  St.  R^^  River,  in  whose  churchyard 
the  Rev.  Eleazer  Williams  was  buried,  after  serving  here  for  several  years  as  an 
Episcopal  missionanr.  There  was  a  mystery  as  to  the  tote  of  the  son  of  Louis 
XVl.  of  France,  and  numerous  physical  and  other  coincidunces  indicated  that 
Williams  was  the  prince.  A  book  (' '  The  Lost  Prince  ")  was  published  about  him ; 
and  great  excitement  was  caused  by  the  popular  question,  "  Have  we  a  Bourbon 
among  us?* 

Below  St.  B^s  both  shores  are  Canadian,  and  the  river  expands  into 
Lake  St.  Franoii  (5§  M.  wide,  and  25  M.  long),  which  is  dotted  with 
islets.  On  the  N.  shore  is  Lancaster;  and  at  the  outlet  is  the  sombre 
French  village  of  Coteau  du  Lac,  at  the  head  of  11  M.  of  rapids  (88  ft. 
fall),  called  the  Coteau  and  the  Cedar  Rapids  and  the  Cascades.  At  the 
foot  of  these  rapids  is  the  village  of  BeauhamoiCj  where  vessels  enter  the 
Beauhamois  Canal  (S.  shore;  11  M.  long,  with  9  locks).  Opposite  thia 
point  is  the  mouth  of  the  Ottawa  River  and  the  Isle  Perrot^  where  Am- 
herst encamped  in  1760,  after  losing  64  boats  and  88  men  in  the  Cedar 
Rapids.  Here  the  steamer  enters  Lake  St.  Lonia  (12  x  5  M.),  w  :th  St. 
Clair  on  the  N.  shore,  and  the  high  and  peculiar  Nuns'  Island  (an  appa- 
nage  of  the  Gray  Nunnery  at  Montreal)  on  the  r.,  5  M.  below  Beauhar- 
nois.  Near  the  Nuns'  Island,  on  the  S.,  is  Chateaugayf  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Chateaugay  River,  where  De  Salaberry,  Seigneur  of  CSiambly,  defeat- 
ed, with  a  small  force,  the  incompetent  American  (}en.  Wade  Hamptopi 
(Oct.,  1813),  and  his  fine  army.  The  steamer  next  reaches  Lachine,  oppo- 
site which  is  the  populous  Indian  village  of  Caughnatpoga,  inhabited  by 
the  orderly  and  indolent  descendants  of  the  Six  Nations. 

During  the  Rebellion  of  1837,  a  body  of  armed  insurgents  surrounded  the  villagers 
at  service  in  the  church ;  but  the  chief  and  his  people  fell  upon  the  rebels,  disarmed 
and  bound  them,  and  sent  them  to  Montreal.  In  the  church  hangs  the  celebrated 
bell  of  Deerfield.  This  bell  was  bought  (in  France)  for  the  church  late  in  the  17th 
century,  and  was  in  a  vessel  which  was  captured  oy  a  Massachusetts  cruiser.  It 
was  hung  in  the  Puritan  church  at  Deerfield,  MasR. ;  and  the  Indians,  knowing 
the  fact,  attacked  the  place  in  1704,  killed  47  of  the  people,  and  carried  180  into 
captivity.  The  victorious  crusaders  carried  the  bell  on  poles  through  the  forest 
to  the  site  of  Burlington,  Vt.,  where  they  buried  it.  The  following  year  priest 
and  people  went  forth  and  brought  the  bell  in  triumph  to  Caughnawaga,  first 
cleansing  it  by  solemn  rites  ttota.  its  Puritan  contaminations. 

The  *i4icnine  Rnptda  aie  now  entered.  "Suddenly  a  scene  of  wild  confu- 
sion bursts  upon  the  eye ;  waves  are  lashed  into  spray  and  into  breakers  of  a 


200     Baute99. 


AUBURN. 


W 


Hioasand  forms  by  the  Bnbmei;ged  rooki  which  they  are  d(Mhed  against  in  the 
headlong  impetuosity  of  tlie  river.  Whirlpools,  a  storm-lashed  sea,  the  cluunn 
below  Niagara, — all  mingle  their  sublimity  in  a  single  rapid.  Now  passing  with 
lightning-speed  within  a  few  yards  of  rocks  which,  did  your  vessel  but  touch 
them,  would  reduce  her  to  an  utter  wreck  before  the  crash  could  sound  upon  the 
ear;  did  she  even  diverge  in  the  least  from  her  course, — if  her  head  were  not 
kept  straight  with  ttie  course  of  the  rapid,  —  she  would  be  instantly  submerged 
and  roUed  over  and  over.  Before  us  is  an  absolute  precipice  of  waters ;  on  every 
side  of  it  breakers,  like  dense  avalanches,  are  thrown  high  into  the  air.  Ere  we 
can  take  a  glance  at  the  scene,  the  boat  descendn  the  wall  of  waves  and  fuam  like 
a  bird,  and  a  second  afterwards  you  are  floating  on  the  calm,  unruffled  bosom  of 
'  below  the  rapids.'"  The  steamer  now  passes  under  the  *  Victoria  Bridge,  and 
moves  up  to  the  pier  at  .  . 

Montreal  (page  121), 

29.  Syncnae  to  Boohetter. 

By  the  Auburn  Division  (Old  Road)  of  the  N.  T.  Central  and  H.  R.  B.  B.  Sta- 
tions, Syracuse ;  Camlllus,  8  M.  ;  Marcellus,  10  ;  Skaneateles.  17  ;  Auburn,  25 ; 
Cayuga,  86 :  Seneca  Falls,  41 ;  Waterloo,  44 ;  Geneva.  61 ;  Phelps,  69 ;  Clifton 
Springs,  68 ;  Canandaigua,  74 ;  Farmington,  80 ;  Pittsford,  94 ;  Rochester,  102. 

The  train  soon  enters  the  rolling  limestone  highlands  of  Camillas,  and 
passes  the  stations  of  Gamillus,  Fairmount,  Marcellus,  Halfway,  i^nd 
Skaneateles  Junction.  From  the  latter  a  branch  track  runs  5  M.  S.,tO 
Mottville  and  Skaneateles  {Packtoood  ffotise),  a  brisk  village  much  visitied 
in  summer,  and  situated  at  the  foot  of  the  lake  of  the  same  name  (meaning 
"  beautiful  squaw  ").  *  Skanestolei  Lake  is  the  most  picturesque  of 
the  lakes  of  Central  N.  Y.,  and  is  16  M.  long,  with  a  width  of  1  M.  It 
is  860  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  its  S.  half  is  bordered  by  lofty  hills  1,200  ft. 
above  the  waters,  which  take  a  deep-blue  tint  between  these  abrupt 
shadowing  ridges.  The  village  of  Olen  Haven  is  a  quiet  summer  resort 
under  the  hills  near  the  S.  end  of  the  lake,  and  a  small  steamer  runs 
irregularly  along  its  waters.  8- 10  M.  S.  E.  of  Skaneateles  is  the  hamlet 
of  .^mder,  at  the  foot  of  the  romantic  and  sequestered  Otiioo  Lake,  whicb 
is  4  M.  long,  and  lies  in  a  deep  valley  bordered  by  hilLs  1,700  ft.  high. 
The  lake  is  772  ft.  above  the  sea. 

The  main  line  passes  Sennett  and  then  enters  Auburn  (iS^.  Janiea  Hotels 
$  3,  Genesee  St. ;  Osborne  House,  State  St.,  near  the  station.  Horse-cars 
on  E.  (Jenesee  St.  from  Exchange  St.  to  Seward  Ave.;  also  on  State, 
Franklin,  and  Genesee  Sts.  Reading-room,  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  12  North  St. 
Amusements  at  Academy  of  Music,  North  St. ).  Auburn,  the  o&pital  of 
^Cayuga  County,  is  situated  in  a  fertile  farming  country,  and  is  on  the 
Owasco  Outlet,  whicli  furnishes  water-power  for  its  numerous  factories. 
It  is  one  of  the  handsomest  of  the  minor  cities  of  N.  Y.,  and  is  famous  for 
its  public  institutions.  There  are  17,225  inhabitants,  with  5  banks,  17 
churches,  and  2  daily  and  4  weekly  papers.  ^ 

The  Aabarn  State  PrlMon  was  established  in  1816,  and  coven  18  acres  ot 
land.  The  main  building  is  387  ft.  long,  and  is  connected  with  the  prison-shops, 
where  the  convicts  work  for  contractora.  The  average  number  of  convicts  is  950, 
and  in  1870  the  expense  of  the  prison  was  $167,000,  its  earnings  amounting  to 


hk  tta0 
chasm 
ig  with 
b  touch 
pon  the 
ere  not 
kmerged 
n  every 
Ere  we 
>am  like 
Mom  of 
Ige.  and 


B.  Sta- 
»um,  25 ; 
;  CUftoa 
it,  102. 

Ins,  and 
'ay,  and 
M.  S.  to 
hvisitJed 
meaning 
Bsque  of 
IM.    It 
ll,200  ft. 
abrupt 
er  resort 
aer  runs 
e  hamlet 
e,  vrhicb 
ft.  high. 

!«  Hotel, 
>rse-caT8 
L  State, 
trth  St* 
dtal  of 
on  the 
ttories. 
lous  for 
iks,l7 


I acres  of 
In-shops. 
is  950, 
xting  to 


OWASCO  LAKE. 


lioiUei9,     201 


1 182,000.  The  premises  are  near  the  R.  R.  station,  and  are  enclosed  by  a  stone 
wall  SO  ft  high.  Adjoining  the  prison  is  the  Asylum  for  Insane  CkmTlcts,  with 
extensive  stone  buildings. 

On  (Jenesee  St.  (the  principal  street  of  Anbnm)  is  the  Court  ffouae  of 
Cayuga  County,  a  fine  stone  building  surmounted  by  a  dome  which  is 
surroimded  with  Ionic  columns.  Fort  St.  leads  to  the  pretty  cemetery  on 
Fort  Hill  (an  ancient  Indian  mound),  whose  most  interesting  point  is  the 
grave  of  Seward.  The  costly  and  elegant  churches  of  St.  Peter  (Episco- 
pal) and  St.  Mary  (Catholic)  are  at  this  end  of  the  city,  and  the  imposing 
First  Presbyterian  Church  is  on  North  St.,  near  the  quaint  little  City 
Hall  and  the  spacious  Church  of  the  Holy  Family.  The  Presbyterian 
Theological  Seminary  is  situated  in  the  N.  E.  part  of  the  city,  and  occu- 
pies a  large  stone  structure  of  166  ft.  frontage,  N.  of  which  is  a  new  and 
costly  library  building.  This  school  \7as  founded  in  1820,  and  is  of  high 
repute  among  the  Presbyterians.  It  has  5  professors,  40  students,  and  a 
library  of  4,000  volumes.  The  Orphan  Asylum  is  on  Wall  St.,  and  the 
State  has  just  completed  a  large  armory  on  State  St.  South  St,  is  lined 
with  fin*;  mansions,  among  which  is  the  old  Seward  home  (near  Genesee  St ). 

William  Hx^ut  Seward  (bom^it  Florida,  N.  T.,  May  16, 1801)  waa  for  nearly 
SO^yeara  a  resident  of  Aubnm.  He  graduated  at  Union  College  in  1820,  and  soon 
gained  a  high  reputation  as  a  criminal  lawyer.  Favoring  internal  improvements 
and  secular  education,  he  was  made  Gov.  of  N.  Y.  in  1838  and  1840,  and  was  a 
U.  S.  Senator  from  1849  to  1861.  He  opposed  the  Native- American  party,  and 
was  a  chief  founder  of  the  Republican  party,  uolding  that  "the  antagonism  be- 
tween fi^edom  and  slavery  is  an  irrepressible  conflict  between  opposmg  and  en- 
during forces."  He  would  doubtless  have  been  the  President  of  the  U.  S.  in 
1861  -  66,  but  for  the  hosl^Hty  of  Horace  Greeley,  who  worlced  against  him  in  the 
Republican  convention.  He  was  Secretary  of  State  throughout  the  perilous  years 
of  the  Great  Rebellion,  and  by  his  bold  and  skilflil  diplomacy  Mexico  was  deliv- 
ered from  French  occupation,  and  threatened  foreign  interventions  in  behalf  of 
the  insurgent  American  States  were  averted.  In  1866  he  was  attacked  at  his 
house  by  an  assassin,  who  inflicted  upon  him  several  terrible  wounds.  Mr.  Seward 
was  Secretary  of  State  under  President  Johnson,  and  fearlessly  snsteined  the 
Executive's  reconstruction  itolicy  against  the  sentiment  of  the  whole  country. 
After  1869  he  made  a  long  triumphal  joamey  around  the  world,  by  way  of  Cali- 
fornia, India,  Egypt,  and  France;  and  in  1872  (Oct  10)  he  died,  at  the  Seward 
mansion,  in  Auburn. 

Owasoo  Lake  is  2^  M.  S.  of  Auburn,  and  is  much  visited  in  summer 
(stages  from  the  city).  It  is  possible  that  the  steamboat  service  between 
Owasco  and  Moravia  will  be  resumed  in  the  summer  of  1876.  The  lake 
is  758  ft  above  the  sea,  and  is  bordered  by  bold  bluffs  and  in  part  by  the 
rich  savannas  known  as  the  Owasco  Flats.  The  lake  is  11  M.  long  and 
less  than  1  M.  wide,  and  extends  S.  from  the  hamlet  of  Owasco  (Benning- 
ton House)  to  the  prosperous  village  of  Moravia  (Skidmore  House),  near 
the  Mill  Brook  Falls  and  the  Dry  Falls,  whose  cascade  is  invisible  in 
summer.  The  rural  town  of  Scipio  is  on  the  W.  shore  of  the  lake,  and 
is  much  frequented  by  summer  boarders.  The  Southern  Central  R. 
B.  lies  along  the  W.  shore.  From  Auburn  the  train  runs  W.  10  M.  to 
Cayuga,  whence  steamers  and  a  railway  run  S.  upon  and  alongside  of 
9* 


202     ItouU  99. 


CUFTON  SPRINGS. 


w 


!l! 


Oaynga  Lake  (see  page  207).  As  the  train  crosses  the  long  bri<^  oyer 
the  qnttet  the  lake  is  seen  on  the  1.  Stat'on,  Senee*  Valll  {Hoag't  Botd, 
$  2.60),  a  factory  village  at  the  Falls  (51  ft)  of  the  Seneca  River.  There 
are  here  nearly  6,000  inhabitants,  2  papers,  2  banks,  6  churches,  and 
large  manufactories  of  steam  fire-engines,  woollens,  iron,  yeast,  and 
pumps.  To  the  N.  is  Tyre,  whose  surface  is  divided  between  long  drift- 
ridges  and  the  low  Montezuma  Marshes.  Seneca  Falls  is  the  scene  of 
Bayard  Taylor's  novel  of  "Hannah  Thurston";  and  here  Mrs.  Amelia 
Bloomer  began  the  so-called  reform  in  feminine  apparel  which  has  since 
borne  her  name.  Station,  Waterloo  ( Towsley  House),  a  prosperous  manu- 
facturing village  with  4,000  inhabitants,  7  churches  (2  of  which  are  very 
attractive),  and  2  banks.  The  Court  House  of  Seneca  County  is  a  hand- 
some building;  and  Waterloo  is  further  noted  for  its  shawls  and  farming- 
machinery.  6  M.  beyond  the  train  passes  along  the  foot  of  Seneca  Lake, 
and  stops  at  Geneva  (see  Route  31).  The  train  runs  now  N.  W.  to  Clif- 
ton Spring!  (Foster  ffouse^  9Z  a  day;  *  Clifton  Springs  Sanitarium). 
The  copious  sulphur  springs  in  this  vicinity  have  attained  much  celebrity 
as  remedial  agents  in  cases  of  bilious  and  cutaneous  disorders.  The  prih- 
dpal  ingredients  are  the  sulphates  of  lime,  magnesia,  and  soda,  the  carbo- 
nates of  lime  and  magnesia,  and  the  chlorides  of  sodium,  calcium,  and 
magnesium.  The  waters  began  to  be  used  in  1806 ;  and  since  1850  Clifton 
has  become  the  foremost  resort  on  the  Central  Railroad.  The  Sanitarium 
is  conducted  by  its  founder,  Dr.  Henry  Foster,  on  a  unique  plan.  It  is 
maintained  that  spiritual  r^neration  should  precede  physical  rehabilita- 
tion; and  that  the  restoration  of  the  soul  to  harmony  with  God  and& 
placid  and  restful  faith  will  powerfully  aid  in  the  work  of  restoring  the 
body  to  its  normal  health.  After  leaving  Clifton  Springs  the  train  runs 
W.  across  Manchester. 

In  this  town  Joe  Smith  claimed  to  have  found  the  golden  plates,  on  which.  In 
an  unknown  language,  were  inscribed  the  writings  of  the  Hebrew  prophet  Mor^ 
mon.  It  was  asserted  that  Mormon  (under  Divine  command)  had  written  an 
abridgment  of  the  sacred  history  and  prophecies,  the  advent  of  the  gospel  among 
the  Jews,  and  the  final  ruin  of  that  nation.  Mormon  left  his  records  to  be  con- 
cealed by  his  son  Moroni,  who  buried  them  in  "  the  hill  of  Cumorah,"  where 
Smith  afterwards  found  them. 

At  Shortsville  the  hnia  tunis  S.  and  soon  reaches  Canindaigna 
(CanandaigtM  Hotel,  large  and  comraodio'is,  $2.50;  Webster  House),  a 
pleasant  village  of  nearly  5,000  inhabitants,  with  7  churches,  2  papers, 
a  bank,  and  2  academies.  There  are  2  orphan  asylums ;  and  Brigham 
Hall  (1  M.  W.)  is  a  private  insane  asylum  for  70  patients.  In  the  old 
court  house  is  the  Wood  Library  and  Museum.  The  Court*.  House  of 
Ontario  County  is  situated  on  a  hill  near  and  N.  of  the  R.  R.,  and  is 
adorned  with  an  Ionic  portico  and  a  graceful  dome,  on  which  is  a  statue 
of  Themis.    In  one  of  the  court-rooms  are  26  portraits  of  the  chief  pio- 


OANANDAIOUA. 


Routt  SO.      203 


(hich.  In 

let  Mor- 

}tten  an 

among 

I  be  con- 

wheie 


Been  of  Ontario  County.  The  broad  main  street  of  the  Ttllage  miis  N. 
by  embovrered  mauRions  and  ttne  churches,  and  on  the  S.  it  runs  to  the 
shore  of  Canandaigna  Laket  nearly  1  M.  from  the  Court  House. 
Steamers  leave  the  village  several  times  daily  and  run  down  the  lake 
to  Woodville{l6  M. ;  fare,  75c.),  touching  at  Seneca  Point,  the  seat  of  the 
summer  hotel  called  the  Lake  House.  The  bluffs  here  are  3  -  400  ft.  above 
the  water,  and  overhang  pleasant  glens.  Stages  run  from  Woodville  to 
Naples  (4  M.),  a  busy  village  in  a  hilly  country  which  is  studded  with 
vineyards.  E.  of  Naples  are  Italy  and  Jerusalem;  and  S.  W.  is  Blood's 
Station,  on  the  £rie  Railway.  Canandaigua  Lake  is  16  M.  long,  and  668 
ft.  above  the  sea.  There  are  2,000  vineyards  around  its  borders.  The  S. 
shores  are  lofty  and  bold,  Riid  many  summer  visitors  arc  attracted  here 
by  the  quiet  beauty  of  the  scenery. 

Canandaigua  in  the  N.  terminus  of  the  Northern  Central  R.  R,  which  runs  8. 
to  Elmira  (09  MX  Hanisburgh  (240  M.),  and  Baltimore  (325  M.). 

Running  out  from  Canandaigua  to  the  N.  W.  the  Rochester  train  passes 
W.  Farmington  and  Victor,  which  is  on  the  site  of  the  Iroquois  village 
of  Oannagaro,  destroyed  by*  French  troops  under  the  Marquis  de  Nonville. 
llie  line  then  traverses  Pittsford  and  the  garden-like  plains  of  Brighton, 
and  enters 

Booheiter  (see  page  171). 

•    .  . 

Canandaigua  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara. 

By  the  Tonawanda,  Batavia,  and  Canandaigua  Div.  of  the  N.  T.  Central  R.  R., 
and  the  Buffalo  and  Suspension  Bridge  Div.   To  Buffalo,  86  M. :  to  Niagara,  91  M. 

The  line  runs  W.  across  an  o\\en  farming  country.  Stations,  E.  Bloonifleld  (|  M. 
from  the  village),  W.  Bloomfield  (U  M.  N.  of  the  village),  and  Honeove  Fam,  a 
brisk  factory  town  on  Honeoye  Creek.  Beyond  W.  Rush  the  line  crosses  the  Roches« 
ter  Div.  of  the  Erie  Railway,  the  Genesee  River,  and  the  Genesee  Valley  CanaL  At 
Caledonia  the  Attioa  Div.  of  the  Erie  Railway  is  approached,  and  it  runs  parallel 
with  the  present  route  to  Batavia  (17  MA  liation,  Le  Boy  (Eagle  Hota^,  a  vil- 
lage on  Oatka  Creek,  and  the  seat  of  Inghavt,  -'  i.iversUy,  a  school  for  young  ladies, 
with  14  instructors  and  186  students.  The  f,  aunton  Conservatory  is  a  massive 
Stone  building  in  which  are  kept  numerous  cabinets  of  minerals  and  S.  American 
curiosities,  together  with  a  gallery  of  paintings  Qnostly  by  Staunton).  Stations, 
Stafford,  Batavia  (^ee  page  175),  E.  Pembroke,  Richville  (S.  sf  the  Tonawanda 
Reservation),  Akron,  Clarence,  and  Oetzville :  beyond  which  the  train  reaches 
Tonawanda,  where  connections  are  made  for  Buffalo  or  Niagara. 


lifiraa 
w),  a 
)apeTS, 
righam 
Ihe  old 
of 
land  is 
I  statue 
plo- 


30.   Cayuga  Lake  and  Ithaca. 

Ithaca  is  reached  from  New  York  by  the  Erie  Railway  to  Owego  (236  M.X  and 
thence  by  the  Cayuga  Div.  of  the  D.  L.  and  W.  R.  R.  (84|  M.).  Trains  run  N. 
E.  from  Ithaca  to  Cortland,  connecting  with  a  railroad  to  Syracnse ;  and  a  new 
line  runs  from  Ithaca  N.  W.  across  Seneca  County  to  Geneva  (40  M.).  The  N.  Y. 
Central  R.  R.  (Old  Road)  touches  Cayuga  Lake  on  the  N. ;  and  the  best  route  flrom 
Philadelphia  is  by  the  N.  Penn.,  Lehigh  Valley,  and  Ithaca  and  Athens  R.  Rs. 

The  Cayuga  Lake  R.  R.  nins  N.  fTom  Ithaca,  along  the  E.  shore.  Staticfu, 
Ithaca:  Norton's,  6  M.;  Taughkannock,  11 ;  Lake  Budge,  13  ;  Atwater's,  1? ; 
King's  Ferry,  18;  Willett's,  22;  Aurora*  25;  Levanna,  28;  Union  Springs,  83; 
Cayuga^SS. 


204     JtouU9(K 


ITHACA. 


\l 


i 


8t$amm\«$,r9  Ithaea  at  7  a.  m.  and  1  p.  m.;  and,  returning,  leare  Carnea  at  8 
and  2.  Thtj  stop  at  Norton's,  Taughkannook,  Trumansbnrgh.  Lak«  Rl&e,  At- 
water's,  Kklder's  Ferry,  SheUdrake  ^int,  Aurora,  Levaoua,  and  Union  Springs. 

IthtM  (•  Ithaea  Hotd;  Clinton  House)  is  a  yiUage  of  nearly  12,000  in- 
habitants,  situated  on  level  lands  near  the  head  of  Cayuga  Lake.  The 
streets  are  abundantly  shaded  by  trees;  and  De  Witt  Park,  near  the 
centre  of  the  village,  is  a  pleasant  square  of  trees  and  lawns.  In  this 
vicinity  (on  Tioga  St.)  is  the  ComeU  Library,  in  a  spacious  building, 
which  also  contains  the  Post-Office,  lecture-hall,  and  De-Witt  Guards* 
armory.  The  library  has  over  12,000  volumes,  and  is  free,  being  much 
patronized  by  the  people  of  Ithaca.  The  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  Ithaca 
is  of  the  highest  order  of  beauty ;  and  it  is  said  that  there  are  150  cas- 
cades and  waterfalls  within  ten  miles. 

The  *  Ithaea  Ck>rge  is  less  than  1  M.  from  the  village,  and  is  entered 
firom  the  iron  bridge  at  the  N.  end  of  Aurora  St.,  by  turning  to  the  r.  by 
a  rustic  lodge.  Refreshments  may  be  obtained  here,  and  25c.  is  paid  for 
entering  the  Gtorge.  The  path  has  been  made  for  the  most  part  by  out- 
ting  and  blasting  out  a  way  in  the  side  of  the  cliffs,  and  iron  railiiigs 
protect  the  more  dangerous  points.  This  ravine  contains  more  waterfalls 
than  are  found  in  any  similar  space  in  the  State,  and  Fall  Creek  descends 
liere  400  ft.  in  1  M.  Numerous  fine  view-points  may  be  fotmd  by  short 
divei^ences  to  the  r.  of  the  path.  The  first  fall  is  the  celebrated  *  IthaOft 
Fall,  where  the  creek  (150  ft.  wide)  plunges  down  160  ft.  into  a  deep 
broad  basin.  A  fine  view  is  gained  from  the  Point  of  Rocks,  whence  the 
path  ascends  a  rock  stairway  cut  in  the  cliffside  to  the  Plateau,  a  broad 
moss-covered  shelf  at  the  top  of  the  Fall,  with  pine-trees  forming  a 
shelter.  Promoniory  Point,  40  ft.  above  the  Plateau,  and  on  the  open 
cliff,  is  next  reached,  and  affords  a  rich  view  over  the  broad  valley  and 
the  village.  From  this  point  a  workman  once  fell  to  the  Basin,  200  ft. 
below,  and  escaped  without  broken  bones.  A  rock  stairway  now  leads 
up  to  Cliff  Rock,  which  gives  another  fine  vall^-view.  The  lofty  cliffs 
which  line  the  gorge  are  followed  by  a  path  far  above  the  stream,  until  a 
shady  pine  grove  is  passed,  and  the  pleasant  Moss  Level  is  reached,  over 
the  bright  Forest  FaU.  Between  the  Ithaca  and  Forest  Falls,  a  singular 
tunnel  entrance  is  seen  in  the  base  of  the  opposite  cliffs.  This  tunnel  is 
cut  through  the  solid  rock,  200  ft.  long,  and  15  ft.  wide  and  high,  and  is 
used  to  carry  water  to  the  mills  in  Fall  Creek  village.  The  work  was 
done  by  young  Ezra  Cornell,  in  1830.  The  Spray  Path  leads  down  from 
Moss  Level  to  the  Inferno,  at  the  base  of  the  Forest  Fall.  Just  above  the 
Moss  Level  the  path  reaches  the  Foaming  FaU,  a  sheer  plunge  of  80  ft., 
with  lofty  cliffs  beyond.  Rocky  Fall  (55  ft.)  is  a  little  way  farther  on, 
and  some  of  its  surplus  water  runs  a  turbine-wheel  which  pumps  up 
Water  to  the  top  floors  of  the  University  buildings,  on  the  S.  bank.    The 


ITHACA. 


JlouU  SO.     205 


aatS 

;e,  At- 
rlngi* 

100  in- 
The 
Mr  the 
n  this 
ilding, 
iuards* 
much 
Ithaca 
50ca8- 

entered 
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>aid  for 
by  out- 
railiiigs 
aterfalls 
lescends 
by  short 
»Iihao» 
a  deep 
mce  the 
broad 
ling  a 
le  open 
^ey  and 
200  ft. 
bw  leads 
f ty  cU£f8 
until  a 
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innel  is 
and  is 
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from 
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80  ft., 
Iher  on, 
ips  up^ 
Tho 


)ve 


work  is  accomplished  by  an  endless  wire  cable  and  a  gang  of  pnmpt. 
Passing  now  along  the  Sylvan  Stream  path,  the  Colimum  is  reached,  a 
wide  curve  of  the  bare  cliffs  on  N.  and  S.,  in  whose  centre  is  a  deep  cleft 
throagh  which  the  resounding  Triphammer  Falls  plunge  down  into  a 
dark  basin.  The  S.  cliff  is  now  ascended,  by  a  spiral  wooden  staircase  of 
68  steps,  to  the  picnic  resort  called  Triphammer  Qrove.  From  this  point 
the  path  descends  to  the  stream  at  the  roaring  Flwne  Falls,  Just  above 
which  is  the  Beebe  Dam.  The  path  continues  up  the  gorge  for  ^  M. 
farther  to  the  factory  village  of  Free  Hollow.  Many  persons  prefer  to 
cross  the  bridge  over  Flume  Falls,  and  ascend  to  the  University  buildings 
by  a  path  up  the  S.  bank. 

The  *Oornell  UniTenity  is  located  on  the  heights  E.  of  Ithaca,  and  400 
ft.  above  Cayuga  Lake.  Tlie  buildings  form  the  widely  detached  sides  of 
a  quadrangle  embracing  the  sharply  outlined  plateau  between  the  deep 
gorges  of  the  Fall  and  Cascadilla  Creeks,  and  the  estate  covers  over  200 
acres.  McOraw  Hall  is  the  most  conspicuous  of  the  buildings,  and  occu- 
pies the  centre  of  the  line  facing  Ithacr.  It  is  built  of  dark'  blue  stone 
from  the  University  grounds,  and  is  200  ft  long  and  60  ft.  wide,  with  a 
campanile  tower  rising  from  the  centre,  120  ft.  high.  This  edifice  con- 
tains several  lecture-rooms,  an  anatomical  theatre,  the  museums,  and  the 
library,  while  in  the  central  part  are  two  halls,  each  100  X  56  ft.  The 
building  is  divided  into  fire-proof  sections,  and  is  el^^tly  finished  within. 
The  tower  contains  the  Great  Bell  of  the  University  (5,000  pounds),  and  a 
chime  of  9  smaller  bells,  while  the  *  view  from  the  summit  is  of  great 
beauty,  including  Ithaca  and  its  fair  valley  and  nearly  two  thirds  of 
Cayuga  Lake.  The  N.  and  S.  Buildings  are  on  either  side  of  McOraw 
Hall,  and  each  of  them  is  165  X  55  ft.,  4  stories  high,  and  built  of  Ithaca 
stone.  They  are  occupied  for  lecture-rooms  and  dormitories.  The  Siblejf 
College  of  the  Mechanic  Arts\&  a  large  stone  building  on  the  N.  of  the 
quadrangle,  and  contains  a  foundry,  drawing-rooms,  mechanical  and 
botanical  museums,  etc.  The  laboratories  and  the  farm-house  and  bams 
of  the  Colkjo  of  Agriculture  are  on  the  E.,  and  on  the  S.  is  the  Sage 
Chapel,  in  the  old  English  Gothic  style.  Beyond  the  chapel  is  the  im- 
posing building  of  the  *  Sage  College,  which  is  the  home  of  the  lady 
students  of  the  University.  It  is  in  the  Italian  Gothic  style,  with  a  lofty 
central  tower,  and  is  quadrangular  in  form,  with  a  frontage  of  168  ft. 
Henry  W.  Sage,  of  Brooklyn,  gave  %  150,000  toward  this  building,  which 
was  erected  in  1872  -  73.  Cascadilla  Place  is  a  collie  hall  situated  above 
the  high  cliffs  over  Ithaca.  The  University  Road  (admirably  built)  runs 
thence  to  the  main  campus  (^  M.),  crossing  the  goi^e  of  the  Cascadilla 
by  a  bridge  70  ft.  high.  In  the  adjacent  glen  a  pleasure-ground  and 
ramble  has  been  made.  Cascadilla  Place  is  of  blue  and  white  stone,  4 
stories  high,  and  195  x  100  ft.  in  size. 


206     JUmU^,      TAUOHKANNOCK  FALLa 


Tke  Covnall  Unlrenltj  wu  ftmndtd  tn  1M6  by  Mm  ConMll,  who  mdowod  It 
wtth  •  600,000.  New  Tork'i  ihara  of  the  public  lanUii  given  by  (JougreM  for  tho 
benefit  of  agrioultore  and  the  mechanic  arte  waa  given  to  this  iiiatitution,  and 
«art  of  it  waa  aold.  400,000  acres  in  the  best  Btatea  of  the  Weet  stiU  perUin  to 
the  Universitj,  and  are  valued  at  over  •  l,fi00,000.  There  are  48  professors  and 
assistanta,  and  600  students,  some  of  whom  are  fh>m  distant  countries  (BraxU, 
Japan,  Russia,  etoA  The  library  contains  88-40,000  volumes,  including  tha 
Anthon  Classical  Library,  the  Bopp  Oriental  Library,  and  the  Ooldwin  Smith 
Library.  The  College  Museum  contains  large  and  valuable  eollections  (the  Jewett 
Ibssils,  the  Billiman  Collection,  and  others).  One  student  annually  is  adml^ 
ted  fh>m  each  N.  Y.  Assembly  District,  fnt  of  tuition,  and  students  can  deCngr 
ail  or  a  part  of  their  ezpensM  by  manual  labor  in  the  college-shops  or  on  the 
ftnn. 

Bnttannilk  Creek  is  two  M.  S.  of  Ithaca  (by  the  Newfield  road),  and 
flows  through  a  narrow  glen  which  is  famed  for  its  beauty.  The  path  is 
not  good.  Visitors  with  carriages  should  send  them  around  to  meet  them 
on  the  bridge  above  the  ravine.  Passing  through  the  Antechamber,  the 
stream  is  followed  by  several  cascades  and  through  pleasant  woodland 
scenery,  to  the  *  Pnlpit  7aU,  near  the  tall  Pulpit  Rock.  The  Bridal 
VeU  Fall  is  a  broad  thin  sheet  of  water  descending  over  broken  ledges, 
and  the  Cornell  and  Dell  Cascades  are  small  but  graceful.  At  the  Pulpit 
the  S.  bank  of  the  ravine  is  ascended,  and  soon  afterward  the  path  regains 
the  level  of  the  creek,  where  some  caution  is  required.  The  cliffs  here 
oampreM  the  waters  into  narrow  bounds,  forming  numerous  pretty  cas- 
cades. Soonafter  passing  Steeple  Bock,  the  upper  road  is  reached  at  the 
bridge.  Barnes's  Olen  is  near  the  Buttermilk  Bavine,  and  is  nearly  equal 
to  it  in  beauty,  having  several  lofty  cascades. 

Uok  Brook  is  reached  by  a  rural  lane  diverging  to  the  L  from  the  New- 
field  road  8  M.  S.  of  Ithaca.  The  First  and  Second  Falls  are  soon  passed, 
and  the  path  leads  along  the  S.  bank  for  nearly  ^  M.  to  the  great  amphi- 
theatre. Here  the  brook  pli^nges  over  a  cliff  160  ft  high,  forming  a  long 
misty  cascade.  The  Snfleld  Olen  is  6  M.  from  Ithaca,  by  a  far-viewing 
hill-road.  It  is  entered  near  the  Enfield  Hotel,  and  the  path  soon  leads 
to  the  foot  of  the  *  Fall,  which  is  160  ft.  high.  Great  variety  of  water 
and  cliff  scenery  is  found  in  the  ravine,  and  skilful  pedestrians  often  trav- 
erse the  lower  glen  for  2  M.,  to  the  Inlet  Valley.  The  glens  of  Newfield 
Greek  and  the  West  Branch  are  respectively  7  and  9  M.  from  Ithaca,  and 
aro  much  visited.  N.  of  Ithaca  by  the  E.  lake  road  aro  SlcKinney's 
Qlens  (2|  M.),  Burdick's  Olen  (4  M.;  with  paths  leading  to  a  waterfall 
160  ft.  high,  interesting  in  high  water).  Luce's,  Shurger's  Glen  (6  M. ;  the 
upper  fall  is  the  finest),  and  the  Ludlowville  Falls  and  Bavine  (7  M.). 
Qiz-Mile  Creek,  Spencer's  Glen,  and  several  other  romantic  ravines,  aro 
found  near  Ithaca.  \ 

The  *  Tangkkaimoek  Falla  aro  10  M.  from  Ithaca,  and  may  be 
reached  by  the  lake-steamers,  the  Ithaca  and  Geneva  B.  B.  (station  ^  M. 
distant),  or  by  a  pleasant  road  leading  along  the  shoro  of  Cayuga  Lake  (or 


OATUGA  LAKB. 


JUmUSO,      207 


by  Jaokfonville).  The  Taughkaiinock  Hotel  i»  favorably  situated  N.  of  the 
Fall,  and  paths  and  stairways  have  been  made  throughout  the  glens.  The 
Taughkannook  Fall  is  210  ft.  in  perpendicular  height,  and  is  ranked  aa 
the  finest  of  the  smaller  falls  of  the  Middle  States.  It  is  narrow  but 
massive,  and  is  the  white  centre-piece  in  a  stately  amphitheatre  of  tall, 
dark  cliffs.  The  water  is  gracefully  curved  by  a  protrusion  of  the  rocks  at 
the  brink,  and  the  cliffs  rise  for  850  ft.  from  the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  and 
145  ft  from  the  top  of  the  fall.  ''  The  Fall  is,  in  truth,  the  Staubbach 
of  Switzerland  most  absolutely  reproduced|  and  of  concentrated  beauty 
and  grandeur."    (Dr.  O.  B.  Chkever.) 

The  upper  ravine  affords  pleasant  rambles,  and  is  provided  with  cleared 
paths.  The  banks  are  high  and  well  wooded,  and  the  stream  has  several 
cascades.  The  Upper  Fall  is  broken  in  outline,  and  is  closely  flanked  by 
fine  cliffs  over  100  ft  high.  It  is  reached  by  following  the  stream,  and 
the  return  to  the  hotel  is  effected  by  a  forest-path  on  the  N.  bank. 
During  low  water  the  brink  of  the  main  fall  may  be  approached,  but 
the  best  view  is  gained  from  the  bottom  of  the  ravine,  which  is  reached 
by  a  long  stairway.  The  gorge  may  be  descended  to  the  shore  of  the 
lake,  and  extensive  lake-views  ore  obtained  from  the  groves  near  the 
hotel. 

Oayuga  Lake  is  about  38  M.  long,  and  comparatively  very  narrow,  ex- 
tending between  the  rich  farming  coimties  of  Seneca  and  Cayuga.  As  the 
steamer  leaves  Ithaca  a  fine  retrospect  is  given  of  the  high  rolling  uplands 
crowned  by  the  buildings  of  the  Cornell  University.  Running  N.  W.  be- 
tween the  high  bluffs  of  Lansing  and  Ulyssgp,  the  boat  soon  reaches  the 
landing  near  Taughkannock  Falls  (W.  shore);  beyond  which  it  passes  on 
the  W.  the  cliffs  ol  Covert,  seamed  with  deep  ravines.  N.  W.  of  the  high 
hamlet  of  Lake  Ridge  Shelldrake  Point  is  visited,  and  the  tall  ridges 
of  Ovid  are  seen  on  the  1.)  with  Genoa  on  the  r.  Aurora  (Aurora  Hotel) 
is  a  pretty  villt^e  on  the  K  shore,  the  seat  of  numerous  summer  villas 
and  of  Wells  Collie  (for  young  ladies).  Near  this  point,  on  a  bold 
promontory  between  deep  ravines,  was  the  fortress  and  capital  of  the 
powerful  Cayuga  tribe  of  the  Six  Nations.  In  1779  Sullivan's  army  de- 
stroyed 9  towns  of  the  Cayngas  along  these  shores,  together  with  their 
orchards  and  grain-fields,  making  a  desert  of  what  had  once  been  a  land 
of  gardens.  The  boat  passes  on  to  Levanna  and  Union  Springs,  a  popu- 
lous village  with  several  mills  located  on  the  water-power  of  2  immense 
springs.  This  place  was  for  some  time  the  home  of  Louis  Napoleon,  and 
is  the  seat  of  the  Howland  School  (for  girls).  A  ferry  crosses  the  lake 
to  the  hamlet  of  Canc^a.  The  lake  nov  narrows  toward  the  end,  and 
the  steamer  soon  reaches  Cayuga,  on  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  (sea 
page  201). 


208     JRoute  SI. 


WATEINS  GLEN. 


3L  Seneoa  Lake  and  Watkms  Olen. 

Watklns  is  295  M.  from  New  York,  by  the  Erie  and  N.  Central  R.  Rb.  ;  288  M. 
from  Pliiiadelphia,  by  the  N.  Penn.,  Lehigh  VaUey,  Erie,  and  N.  Central  R.  Rs. 
(but  one  change  of  cars  ;  at  Elmira),  —  or  by  the  Penn.  R.  R.  to  Hairisbuix; 
and  thence  by  uie  N.  Central,  800  M. ;  frt>m  Baltimore,  by  the  N.  Central,  278  M. 
The  N.  end  of  the  lake  is  touched  by  the  N.  T.  Central  R.  R.  (Old  Line). 

Steamers  make  8  trips  each  way  daily  between  Watkins  and  Geneva  in  summer, 
and  2  trips  daily  the  rest  of  the  year.  They  leave  Watkins  at  6  a.  m.  and  1.45 
and  5.50  p.  u.  ;  and  return  trovoi  Geneva  at  9.55  a.  m.  and  2.85  and  6.20  p.  m.  In 
spring  and  autumn,  frx>m  Watkins  at  6  a.  m.  and  2  p.  M. ;  from  Geneva  at  9.25  a.  k. 
and  8.15  p.  M/  Meals  are  served  on  board.  Landings:  Watkins  ;  Big  Stream  ; 
N.  Hector  ;  Starkey ;  Lodi ;  Ovid  ;  Dresden ;  Dejr's  ;  and  Geneva.  The  steam- 
yacht  Henrietta  leaves  Watkins  at  9  A.  m.,  2  and  8.85  p.  m.  for  Glen  Excelsior, 
Painted  Rocks,  and  Hector  FaUs ;  and  gets  back  at  10.80,  8.80.  and  8.50  (fare, 
25c.). 

Watking  Olen. 

Hotel**  —  *  Lake  View  Hotel,  an  el^;antly  fitted  building  on  the  heights  over- 
looking the  village  and  lake,  and  10  min.  walk  from  the  Glen  ($  8.50  a  day ;  9  21  a 
week)  ;  Glen  Mountain  House,  near  the  centre  of  the  Glen,  98  a  day ;  the  Glen 
Park  and  Arlington  House's,  near  the  entrance,  98a  day ;  the  Fall  Brook  and 
Jefferson  Houses,  in  the  village,  9  2-3  a  day  (open  nil  the  year).  Carriages  to  the 
hotels,  25c.  Horse-cars  from  the  station  to  the  Glen,  lOo.  Shops  for  the  tele  of 
cheap  and  pretty  mementos  are  near  the  Glen. 

Watkins  is  a  rambling  village  of  2,639  inhabitants,  situated  on  the 
broad  plain  at  the  head  of  Seneca  Lake.  It  Ls  the  capital  of  Schuyler 
Co.,  and  has  some  manufactures,  but  derives  its  chief  importance  from 
being  the  N.  terminus  of  the  Cihemung  Canal  (from  the  Chemung  River 
at  Elmira)  and  the  railroad  of  the  Fall  Brook  Coal  Go.  This  region  was 
first  explored  by  Oen.  Sullivan's  army  after  the  victory  over  the  Mohawks 
at  Newtown  (Elmira)  in  1770,  and  many  soldiers  settled  here  after  the  Rev- 
olution. It  derives  its  name  from  Dr.  Watkins  of  London,  one  of  the 
early  proprietors  of  this  land  (the  Watkins  and  Flint  Purchase). 

The  view  from  the  ridge  of  Lake  View  Avenue  is  very  beautiful,  and  a 
still  more  extended  *  prospect  is  gained  from  the  observatory  on  Table 
Mt.,  5  min.  walk  S.  of  the  Lake  View  Hotel.  The  fertile  and  populous 
valley  is  overlooked,  with  its  villages  of  Watkins  and  Havana  (the  Cook 
Academy  looming  over  the  latter),  while  in  the  N.  Seneca  Lake  is  seen 
outstretched  for  many  le^ues.  A  short  path  leads  down  from  the  ob- 
servatory  through  Glenwood  Cemetery  to  the  Glen  Mt.  House. 

*  Watkins  Olen  is  a  deep  and  rugged  ravine  ascending  between  two  long 
ranges  of  low  hills  on  the  W.  side  of  the  Seneca  Lake  Yalley.  Its  course 
is  nearly  K  and  W.,  and  it  rises  800  ft.  in  about  3  M.  The  remarkable 
forms  assumed  by  the  riven  rocks,  the  rich  foliage  of  the  encircling  forest, 
and  the  cascades  on  the  falling  stream,  unite  to  make  of  this  the  most 
charming  of  American  glens.  Since  1863  -  64,  when  the  paths  and  bridges 
were  made,  it  has  steadily  gained  in  reputation,  until  in  1873  over  60,000 
persons  visited  its  depths.  The  distance  to  the  end  of  the  path  is  2^  M. ,  and 
the  bed  of  the  stream  may  be  followed  far  beyond.    Turning  in  from  the 


m 


WATKINS  OLEN. 


RmUeSl.     209 


ta.:288M. 
Ltral  R.  Bs. 
Uarriabunc, 
tral,  278  M. 
e). 

in  summer, 
u.  and  1.45 
20  P.M.  In 
at  9.25  A.  U. 
fig  Stream ; 
Tne  steam- 
1  Excelsior, 
1  8.50  (fare, 


leights  over* 
tday;  921a 
y ;  the  Glen 
L  Brook  and 
rifOiges  to  the 
T  the  tele  of 

ited  on  the 
rf  Schuyler 
rtance  from 
mung  River 
region  was 
Le  Mohawks 
;er  the  Rev- 
one  of  the 

I). 

^tiful,  and  a 

on  Table 

id  populous 

(the  Cook 

take  is  seen 

am  the  ob- 

en  two  long 
Its  course 
remarkable 
lling  forest, 
Is  the  most 
Ind  bridges 
Wer  60,000 
|2iM.,aml 
from  the 


village  street  (^  M.  from  the  railroad  and  steamboat  station),  the  tonrist 
passes  up  the  Untrance  Amphitheatre  toward  a  narrow  cleft  in  the  lofty 
precipice.  Ascending  the  Entrance  Stairs,  the  narrow  Entrance  Cascade 
is  seen,  falling  60  ft.  into  a  still  black  pool.  From  the  Sentry  Bridge,  at 
the  head  of  the  stairs,  is  gained  a  fine  view  of  the  dark  cliffs  above,  while 
the  fertile  valley  is  outspread  in  the  K  Another  staircase  leads  to  a  railed 
path  cut  in  the  cliff-side,  over  the  tranquil  depths  of  Stillwater  Gorge, 
fronted  by  a  tall  precipice.  This  section  is  called  Olen  Alpha,  and  Uie 
MinnehaJia  Falls  are  seen  near  the  end.  The  stream  is  crossed  to  the  N. 
and  recrossed  by  stairs  to  the  S.  as  the  path  traverses  the  Labyrinth,  —  a 
narrow  and  intricate  chasm  between  lofty  cliffs.  Before  ascending  the 
Long  Staircase,  which  here  climbs  the  cliff  for  50  ft.,  theCSxvem  Cascade 
is  seen,  falling  for  40-50  ft.  into  a  dark  basin.  A  railed  path  along  ^ 
the  S.  bank  enables  one  to  enter  the  Orotto,  a  weird  dark  cavern  directly 
behind  the  cascade,  which  falls  in  a  broad  curve  over  its  roof.  Looking 
R  from  the  stairs,  the  view  known  as  Whirlvnnd  Gorge  is  seen.  At  the 
head  of  the  Long  Staircase,  the  Profile  Gorge  of  Olen  Obscura  is  entered, 
and  the  path  ascends  the  N.  cliffs  to  Point  Look  Off.  From  this  point 
Glen  Alpha  is  seen  in  the  E.,  while  W.  and  above  is  the  Olen  Mt.  Home. 
This  hotel  (175  guests;  $  3  a  day ;  $  18  a  week)  is  on  a  rocky  shelf  100  ft. 
above  the  bottom  of  the  gorge  and  200  ft.  above  Glen  Alpha.  The  rooms 
and  parlors  are  in  the  building  to  the  S.,  which  is  connected  with  the 
Swiss  chdlet  used  for  a  dining-hall  by  a  graceful  iron  suspension  bridge 
over  Profile  Gorge.  (A  path  leads  from  this  point  to  Table  Mt.  and  the 
Lake  View  Hotel  in  10  min. )  Just  beyond  the  Glen  Mt.  House  i9  Capt. 
Hope's  *  Olen  Art  Gallery  (fee,  25c.),  with  nearly  100  paintings  by  Hope, 
"  the  father  of  the  realistic  school  of  landscape  painters."  The  pictures 
are  chiefly  of  the  Glen  and  of  New  England  scenery  ;  and  the  most  striking 
of  them  are  the  "  Rainbow  Falls,"  the  "  Gem  of  the  Forest,"  and  the 
large  historical  painting  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac.  ^ 

Passing  the  Art  Gallery,  the  path  continues  on  the  N.  cliff,  passing  the 
Point  of  Rocks,  and  overlooking  the  Mystic  Gorge  of  Glen  Obscura.  A 
long  descent  follows  to  the  bridge  over  the  Sylvan  Rapids,  beyond  which 
is  *  Olen  CatLtiural,  the  grandest  point  in  the  series.  This  glen  is  paved 
with  horizontal  Silurian  strata,  and  its  sides  are  of  rock  for  a  height  of 
800  ft.,  above  which  the  forest  falls  rapidly  to  the  verge  in  200  ft.  more 
of  altitude.  The  length  is  nearly  1,000  ft.,  in  the  direction  of  E.  and  W. 
Near  the  centre  is  the  Pool  of  the  Nymphs,  a  broad  rock  basin  filled  with 
crystalline  water,  called  the  finest  pool  in  the  Glens.  In  the  chancel  (W.) 
of  the  Cathedral  is  the  massive  Central  Cascade,  which  plunges  (60  ft.) 
into  a  narrow  pool  which  is  black  with  great  depth.  The  vicinity  of  this 
dark  and  rock-bound  recess  is  replete  with  gloomy  grandeur.  Returning 
to  the  centre  of  the  N.  side  of  the  Cathedral,  the  Grand  Staii'case  is 


210     Route  Si 


WATKINS  OLEN. 


Mcended  (in  two  sections)  to  the  entnnce  of  the  Olen  of  the  Poole.  The 
retrospect  from  this  point  is  called  the  Mammoth  Qwgt^  and  midway  up 
the  staircase  there  is  a  good  view  (from  above)  of  the  Central  Cascade: 
The  glen  now  entered  contains  a  long  line  of  symmetrical  rock  basins 
filled  with  the  purest  water,  and  surrounded  by  fascinating  forest  scenery. 
The  view  from  the  bridge,  which  is  soon  crossed  (to  the  S.),  is  called  the 
MatMeee  Scene^  and  presents  a  beautiful  commingling  of  trees  and  cliffs, 
pools  and  cascades,  rocks,  rapids,  and  shrubbery.  The  path  ascends  to 
the  Giants'  Gk>rge,  at  the  end  of  which  are  the  *  Triple  CMoade  and 
Bainbow  Falli  (best  seen  ftom  a  path  leading  beyond  the  staircase). 
This  is  the  gem  of  the  water  scenery,  and  is  formed  by  the  Olen  brook 
falling  from  Glen  Difficulty  in  3  leaps  (Triple  Cascade) ;  while  at  the 
same  place  a  small  brook  from  the  S.  falls  over  a  projecting  ledge,  and 
breaks  up  into  a  misty  sheet  of  showering  drops  (Bainbow  Falls).  The 
staircase  is  next  ascended,  and^the  path  is  followed  along  the  side  of  the 
8.  cliff  to  Rainbow  Falls,  which  are  passed  on  the  inside  by  a  railed  walk 
between  the  falls  and  the  rock  over  whose  projecting  ledges  the  water 
descends.  The  passage-way  is  very  wet,  but  the  rainbow  seen  through 
the  falls  (in  the  afternoon)  repays  for  the  inconvenience.  The  Platform 
Stairs  are  now  ascended  (fine  retrospect),  and  Glen  Difficulty  is  entered. 
Passing  along  Shadow  Gorge  on  a  pleasant  path  cut  in  the  cliff,  and  cross- 
ing to  the  N.  by  a  bridge,  the  Frowning  Cliff  is  seen  in  advance,  stratified 
like  masonry.  Another  bridge  is  crossed,  and  the  path  winds  up  the 
Harrow  Pass,  inwalled  by  smooth  horizontal  strata,  to  the  weirdly  dark 
head  of  Glen  Difficulty,  where  the  Pluto  Falli  plunge  into  a  deep  black 
basin.  A  damp  and  difficult  rock  stairway  leads  up  alongside  the  falls 
into  Glen  Arcadia,  the  first  forward  view  in  which  is  called  the  Artist's 
Dream,  while  the  retrospect' from  the  l^ad  of  the  falls  is  named  the 
Spiral  Gorge.  Glen  Arcadia  is  traversed  to  the  Arcadian  Falls  (at  the 
head),  over  which  is  a  bridge  which  affords  a  retrospect  called  the  Elfin 
Gorge. 

The  path  proper  ends  here,  but  visitors  often  pass  on  without  difficulty 
int4>  the  open  glens  (more  properly,  dells)  above.  Glen  Facility  is  first 
traversed,  and  then  Glen  Horicon  is  entered  (|  M.  from  Pluto  Falls). 
Beyond  this  narrow  valley  is  Glen  Elysium,  a  pleasant  glade  50  acres  in 
extent,  overhung  on  the  N.  by  a  cliff  400  ft.  high.  Passing  the  Omega 
Fall,  Glen  Om^ga  is  reached,  beyond  which  there  is  nothing  but  ordinary 
hill  scenery.  Most  visitors  turn  back  from  the  Pluto  Falls,  and  leave  the 
Glen  at  the  Glen  Mt.  House,  by  a  path  diverging  from  the  N.  cliffs  (it 
being  difficult  for  ladies  to  descend  the  Long  Staircase  in  Glen  Alpha). 

It  is  held  (Prof.  Edmund  Burke)  that  the  rat.  through  which  the  Glen  cuts  Its 
way  was  once  an  island  in  a  lake  70  M.  long  (from  Horaelieads  to  Byron).  When 
the  waters  suddenly  subsided  ("the  seas  went  down  into  their  hollows "X  and 
Seneca  Lake  assumed  its  present  form,  this  mt.  was  attacked  ia  the  centre  by 


HAVANA  OLEN. 


HaiUeSl,     211 


ols.   The 
idway  up 
Cascade: 
sk  basins 
b  scenery, 
called  the 
and  cliffs, 
scends  to 
oade  and 
staircase), 
len  brook 
le  at  the 
ledge,  and 
Us).    The 
Ide  of  the 
ailed  walk 
the  water 
n  through 
9  Platform 
is  entered, 
and  cross* 
[,  stratified 
s  up  the 
[irdly  dark 
leep  black 
e  the  falls 
le  Artist's 
tamed  the 
>,ll8  (at  the 
the  Elfia 

difficulty 
ktj/  is  first 
|to  Falls), 
acres  in 
|ie  Omega 
,  ordinary 
I  leave  the 
cliffs  (it 
Llpha). 

In  cuts  its 

t).    When 

fws  "X  and 

centre  by 


iorrents,  and  being  relieved  of  the  lateral  pressure  of  the  lake-waten,  it  n>llt 
through  the  middle,  and  the  Rorge  wai  widened  by  nuhing  waters.  The  mC  is 
composed  of  metamorphic  stratified  roclc,  resting  npon  a  Silurian  formation. 
Ferns  which  are  rarely  seen  N.  of  the  Carolinas  and  lichens  and  mosses  pecoUar 
to  Labrador  are  found  here  in  connection  with  a  great  variety  of  the  flora  of  this 
latitude. 

">ln  all  my  travels  I  have  never  met  with  scenery  more  beautlftil  and  romantie 
than  that  embraced  in  this  wonderful  Olen ;  and  the  most  remarkable  thing  of 
all  is,  that  so  much  magnificence  and  grandeur  should  be  found  in  a  region  where 
tliere  are  no  ranges  of  mts."    (Bayard  Taylor.) 

"  It  is  a  marvellous  rift  in  the  mt,  whictvit  seems  must  have  been  made  by 
some  stupendous  earthquake  shock.  It  suggests  Vanclnse  in  the  pellucid  clear- 
ness and  sparkle  of  the  water.  ....  It  faintly  suggests  the  sombre,  magnificent 
Pass  of  the  Finstermunz,  in  the  Tyrol,  but  is  mflultely  brighter  and  more  variedt 
It  suggests  Trenton  Falls,  but  is  wilder  and  deener.  Most  of  all.  it  suggests 
Bash-Bish,  in  old  Berkshire.  —  is.  indeed,  very  like  it,  but  is  yet  more  picto- 
resque  and  perilous."    (Grace  OreenWooo.) 

The  *  Havaxut  Olen  is  the  complement  of  the  Watkins.  Glen ;  and 
its  waterfalls  are  heavier  and  the  rocks  are  more  mural  than  those 
of  the  latter.  This  Olen  is  81  M.  from  Watkins,  and  is  much  admired 
by  thousands  of  travellers.  Tourists  now  visit  it  by  carriage  from 
Watkius  ($1.50>2),  or  by  railroad  (the  Olen  is  1  M.  from  the  Havana 
station).  The  Montour  House,  in  Havana  village,  is  large  and  in- 
expensive. At  the  Olen  are  the  Olen  Orove  and  Mt.  Cliff  HovaoB, 
small  places  for  refreshments  only.  The  gorge  is  entered  near  Portal 
Cascade,  and  at  the  little  curiosity-shop  just  beyond,  the  entrance-fea 
(25c.)  is  paid.  Passing  around  the  Landslide  Oap,  the  CryetaZ  Rapida 
are  soon  seen  in  advance;  and  after  crossing  a  bridge,  the  *  Eagle  Cliff 
Falls  are  reached.  This  massive  and  beautiful  fall  (60  ft.  high)  is  flanked 
by  lofty  and  symmetrical  cliffs,  which  resemble  ancient  fortress-walls. 
Near  the  summit  of  the  N.  cliff  an  eagle's  eyrie  may  be  seen.  A  long 
stairway  ascends  at  the  E.,  and  ends  at  the  very  veige  of  the  falls.  At 
the  top  the  tourist  enters  the  Oonncil  Chamber,  a  remarkable  hall  100 
X  25  ft.  in  area,  with  sides  and  floor  of  solid  rock,  as  smooth  and  rec- 
tangular as  masonry.  A  stairway  up  the  E.  wall  connects  with  a  i>ath 
leading  to  the  *Cartain  Caicade,  which  is  considered  the  most  beautiful 
in  the  Olen.  Passing  a  bridge  over  the  cascade,  and  climbing  another 
stairway  ia.  Hermit* a  Gorge,  a  narrow  and  high-walled  chasm,  Jacob's 
Ladder  (2  stairways  nearly  100  ft.  high)  is  ascended,  with  tlie  lovely 
Bridal  Veil  FaU  on  the  E.,  sweeping  broadly  over  broken  ledges.  The 
view  down  Hermit's  Gorge  (W.)  is  full  of  interest.  Pilgrim's  Orotto  is 
beyond  the  Ladder,  and  then  the  path  crosses  a  bridge,  winds  along  the 
cliffside,  and  passes  through  a  cavern  known  as  the  Mountain  Tunnel. 
Cavern  Gorge  is  to  the  N.,  and  beydnd  it  is  the  Indian  Oven.  Still 
farther  E.  the  path  winds  along  the  cliff,  by  the  Whispering  Falls,  into 
Chaos  Gorge.  Near  I!c?u>  Falls  a  bridge  is  crossed,  then  the  Fairies' 
Cascade  is  seen  on  the  r.,  and  a  final  ascent  leads  to  Summit  Oorge  and 
Falls.   An  easy  pathway  leads  back  to  the  entrance,  by  passing  along  the 


212     JtouieSL 


SENECA  LAKE. 


tipper  hillside  to  the  Mt.  Cliff  House  (refreshments),  but  it  will  be  fonnd 
more  profitable  to  descend  through  the  Glen.  This  Glen  is  1^  M.  long, 
and  ascends  700  ft.  On  the  road  to  the  village  is  seen  the  spacious  brick 
building  erected  for  the  People's  College,  located  here  in  1857,  and  intended 
to  occupy  800  ft.  of  4-story  buildings  (costing  $  175,000),  and  to  have  19 
professorships.  The  project  failed,  and  the  structure  is  now  occupied  by 
the  Cook  Academy,  a  flourishing  Baptist  school  with  2-300  students. 

Glen  Kontonr  is  W.  of  Havana,  and  is  said  to  possess  much  beauty. 
Arrangements  are  being  made  to  open  it  for  visitors  in  the  summer  of 
1876.  Glen  Excelsior  is  £.  of  Watkins,  and  contains  the  Empire  FaU, 
with  280  ft.  of  slant  height.  Peach  Orchard  and  Hector  Falls  Glens  are 
on  the  E.  shore  of  Seneca  Lake,  and  are  often  explored  by  sure-footed 
pedestrians.  The  Magnetic  Spring  Sanitarium  is  in  the  village  of  Ha- 
vana, at  the  Magnetic  Springs,  whose  waters  are  held  to  be  beneficial  in 
chronic,  rheumatic,  and  cutaneous  diseases  (baths,  50c. ;  Turkish  baths, 
$1 ;  board,  medical  treatment,  and  baths,  $12-16  a  week).  Excursions 
are  made  from  Watkins  to  Ithaca,  by  Cayuta  Lake;  and  on  the  N.  Central 
B.  R  to  Crystal  Springs,  Eeuka  Lake  (23  M.)^  and  Cauandaigua  Lake 
(47  M.). 

Seneoa  Lake. 


**  On  thy  fair  boaont,  diver  lake. 

The  wild  swan  spreads  his  snowy  sail, 
And  round  his  breast  the  ripples  break, 
Am  down  he  bears  before  the  gale. 

"On  thy  fair  bosom,  waveless  stream, 
The  dipping  paddle  echoes  far. 
And  flashes  in  the  moonlight  gleam, 
And  bright  reflects  the  polar  star. 


**  The  wmyes  ahmg  th 


shore, 


"  How  sweet,  at  set  of  snn,  to  view 
Thy  golden  mirror,  spreading  wide. 
And  see  the  mist  of  mantling  blue 
Float  round  the  distant  mountain's  side. 

**  At  midnieht  hour  as  shines  the  moon, 
A  sheet  of  silver  spreads  below. 
And  swift  she  cuts,  at  highest  noon. 
Light  clouds,  like  wreaths  of  purest  snow. 

"  On  thy  fair  bosom,  silver  lake. 


I 


LUV    WHTVW  lUI/UII    HAT    |R:UiriT    0UUI^,  , 

As  blows  the  north-wind,  heave  thdr  foam,      OIil  I  could  ever  sweep  the  oar, 

And  eurl  around  the  dashing  car,  Vfhon  early  birds  at  morning  wake, 

Aa  late  the  boatman  hies  him  home.  And  evening  tells  us  toil  is  o  er." 

"To  Seneca  Lake."    (Pkbcivai..) 

Senega  Lake  is  situated  in  Central  New  York,  and  is  35  M.  long 
and  1-4  M.  wide.  It  occupies  a  deep  valley  between  bold  shores 
running  N.  and  S.,  from  which  cultivated  uplands  slope  away  to  a  height 
of  8  -  700  ft.  There  are  many  productive  and  valuable  vineyards  on  the 
shores,  and  the  general  character  of  the  scenery  is  that  of  rich  and  peace- 
ful farm-lands  and  quiet  villages.  The  lake  is  441  ft.  above  the  ocean, 
and  196  ft.  above  Lake  Ontario.  There  is  a  considerable  commerce  on  its 
waters, — mostly  in  the  transportation  of  coal.  The  depth  of  the  water 
is  remarkable,  and  reaches  in  some  places  over  1,000  ft.,  while  300  ft.  is 
found  near  the  shore.  This  great  reservoir  is  kept  full  by  the  operation 
of  couptless  sub-aqueous  springs,  and  but  a  small  portion  c^  the  water 
enters  from  the  tributary  brooks.  The  waters  are  of  rare  transparency, 
and  even  in  midsummer  preserve  their  coldness,  while  during  the  coldest 
weather  the  lake  never  freezes  completely  over.    It  is  held  by  scientists 


T 


be  found 
;  M.  long, 
ons  brick 
I  intended 
3  have  19 
cupied  by 
dents, 
h  beauty, 
ummer  of 
pire  FaU, 
Glens  are 
ure-footed 
ge  of  Ha- 
;neficial  in 
Ish  baths, 
Excursions 
N.  Central 
igua  Lake 


:wide, 
lue 
itain't  tide. 

moon, 
|w. 
con, 
lureit  mow* 


fake, 
Ir." 
'BBOITAI..) 

M.  long 

bid  shores 

a  height 

[ds  on  the 

[nd  peace- 

le  ocean, 

krce  on  its 

[he  water 

1 800  ft.  is 

jperation 

the  water 

sparency, 

|e  coldest 

sientists 


f 


SENECA  LAKE. 


HouUSI.      213 


t 


that  after  the  subsidence  of  the  waters  Lake  Ontario  emptied  to  the  S. 
through  the  Seneca  and  Cayuga  valleys,  but  the  Seneca  waters  now  flow 
N.  E.,  and  unite  with  the  Oneida  River  to  form  the  Oswego  River,  empty- 
ing into  Lake  Ontario. 

A  century  ago  these  shores  were  clotted  with  the  villages  of  the  valiant  Senecas, 
a  warlike  tribe  of  the  8ix  Nations.  In  August,  1779,  General  Sullivan  led  a 
strong  force  into  this  region,  defeated  the  Senecas  in  a  pitched  battle  near  El- 
niira,  and  advanced  rapidly  through  the  defiles  to  the  head  of  the  lake.  The 
troops  then  swept  up  the  shores,  bearing  sword  and  torch  through  the  rich  plan- 
tations of  the  Indians.  Dozens  of  villages  were  swept  from  existence ;  Kendaia 
was  utterly  destroyed ;  Qotheseunquean  was  taken  and  razed  by  400  Continentals, 
and  the  tribal  capital  and  castle  of  Ganundesaga  (U  M.  W.  of  Geneva)  was  anni- 
hilated. "  Few  of  the  present  generation  are  aware  of  the  advances  which  the 
Indians,  in  the  wide  and  beautiful  country  of  the  Cayugas  and  Senecas,  had  made 
in  the  march  of  civilization.  They  had  several  towns  and  many  large  villages  laid 
out  with  a  considerable  degree  of  regularity.  They  had  framed  houses,  some  of 
them  well  finished,  having  chimneys,  and  painted.  They  had  broad  and  produc- 
tive fields :  and  in  addition  to  an  abundance  of  apples,,  were  the  enjoyment  Oi  the 
pear  and  the  more  luscious  peach."  (Stone.)  Said  the  great  Seneca  chief,  Com- 
rianter,  to  Washington  (in  1792),  "  When  your  army  entered  the  country  of  the 
Six  Nations,  we  called  you  Annatdkaules,  the  Town-Destroyer ;  and  to  this  day, 
when  that  name  is  heard,  our  women  look  behind  them  and  turn  pale,  and  our 
children  cling  close  to  the  necks  of  their  mothers." 

The  steamer  passes  out  from  Watkins,  with  tall  highlands  on  either 
side.  The  Hector  Falls  are  seen  on  the  r.,  and  also  iV.  Hector  Point 
(summer  hotel),  famous  for  its  June  camp-meetings.  N.  Hector  is  nearly 
opposite  Eddytown  (W.  shore),  which  is  the  seat  of  a  Christian  theo- 
logical seminary.  8  M.  from  Watkins  a  landing  is  effected  at  Big  Stream, 
near  an  unexplored  glen  of  great  beauty  and  extent  Near  Lodi  Land- 
ing the  Mill  Creek  falls  over  a  cliff  125  ft.  high,  and  passes  from  a  dark 
and  romantic  ravine  into  the  lake.  Long  Point  is  now  passed  on  the  1., 
and  the  steamer  rounds  in  at  Ovid  (E.  shore),  where  may  be  seen  the 
spacious  and  costly  buildings  of  the  Willard  Lunatic  Asylum,  which 
occupies  also  the  former  buildings  of  the  State  Agricultural  College,  1 
M.  E.  of  the  lake.  Dresden  (W.  shore)  wi'.s  founded  in  1788  by  the 
heretical  New  England  proselytes  of  Jemima  Wilkinson,  and  is  5-6  M. 
from  the  large  town  of  Penn  Yan,  on  Keuka  Lake.  Great  vineyards  are 
seen  on  the  W.,  S.  of  Dresden,  producing  rich  still  wines  (sweet  and  dry 
Catawba).  The  steamer  runs  N.  between  the  rolling  hills  of  Seneca  and 
Fayette,  passes  Dey's  Landing,  and  stops  at  Oeneya  {Franklin  House  ; 
American  House,  $2),  a' town  of  6,571  inhabitants,,  with  9  churches  and  2 
weekly  papers,  and  chiefly  known  for  its  schools.  Hobart  College  is  au 
Episcopal  institution  which  was  foimded  in  1825,  and  has  9  professors  and 
60  -  70  students.  It  receives  annual  subsidies  from  Trinity  Church  in 
N.  Y.  C!ity.  The  buildings  are  substantial,  and  front  on  Main  St.,  a  fine 
avenue  of  villas  overlooking  the  lake.  The  college  has  also  a  grammar 
school  and  a  small  Divinity  school,  but  the  Geneva  Medical  College  is  no 
longer  in  existence.    Trinity  Church  is  on  Main  St.,  and  has  a  picturesque 


214     Route  S»,  THE  MIDLAND  R.  B. 


I 


Saxon  tower.  St.  Peter's  Church  has  costly  stained  windows,  and  was 
built  as  a  memorial  to  Bishop  De  Lancey.  (Geneva  is  pleasantly  situated 
with  respect  to  Seneca  Lake,  and  its  fertile  environs  are  devoted  to  the 
nursery  business. 

Near  the  village  is  the  ancient  fbrfcitlcation  known  as  Fort  Hill,  which  was 
erected  by  the  prehistoric  race  of  "mound-builders,"  and  was  covered  with  large 
forest  trees  a  century  ago.  1^  M.  N.  W.  is  Old  Castle,  with  an  Indian  cemetery 
and  remains  of  fortifications.  This  was  the  site  of  the  largest  Indian  village  in 
W.  New  Yorlc,  and  was  only  ceded  to  the  colonists  under  a  promise  (which  has  not 
been  broken)  that  it  should  not  be  ploughed  up  or  otherwise  invaded.  Many  relics 
have  been  found  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  place  is  still  held  in  honor  by  the  remnant 
of  the  Six  Nations.  It  was  the  chief  seat  of  the  brave  and  skilful  Seneca  tribe, 
but  after  thev  gave  in  their  adhesion  to  the  British  during  the  Revolution,  tiiey 
were  expelled  from  their  ancient  homes. 

32.  New  Tork  to  Oswega 

By  the  N.  J.  Midland  and  the  N.  T.  &  O.  Midland  R.  R.,  which  was  first  opened 
to  travel  in  1878.  The  station  in  Jersey  City  is  gained  by  ferry  fTom  the  foot  of 
Cortlandt  St.  or  Desbrosses  St.,  N.  Y.  Fara,  to  Montclair,  S5c.  ;  Pompton,  $  1 ; 
]|iddletowu,  9  2- 05;  Liberty,  9  8.30:  Sidney  Plains,  II 5. 60;  Oneida,$6.56:  Oswego, 
^7.25. 

Stations.  —  New  York ;  Jersey  City ;  Pompton  June.  ;  Deckertown ;  MiddletOwn, 
66  M. ;  Crawford  June,  69;  Bloomingbu^h,  76;  Wurtsboro',  78 ;  Summitville, 
81^ ;  Fallsburgh  ;  Liberty  ;  Parkesville  ;  Morseton  ;  Cadosia  Summit ;  Walton 
(branch  line  to  Delhi) ;  Sidney  Centre ;  Sidney  Plains,  (about)  118  M.  from  N.  Y. ; 
New  Berlin  June,  120J  (branch  to  New  Berlin) ;  GuUford,  127  :  Oxford,  1S6J ; 
Norwich,  146 ;  Earlville,  160 ;  Smith's  Valley,  164 ;  Eaton,  168J ;  Morrisville,  171 ; 
Munnsville,  173  ;  Oneida  Community,  183  ;  Oneida,  186^ ;  Durhamville,  188^ : 
North  Bay,  197  :  W.  Vienna,  200 ;  Cleveland,  203  ;  Constantia,  2101 ;  Central 
Square,  218^ ;  Caughdenoy,  222  ;  Pennelville,  225 ;  Fulton,  233 ;  Battle  Island, 
236^ ;  Seneca  Hill,  238 ;  Oswego,  243. 

Montclair  Division. 

Leaving  Jersey  City,  and  passing  Arlington,  the  marshes  of  Kearney,  and  the 
N.\  borders  of  Newark,  the  Ime  runs  out  by  the  stations  of  Montgomery,  Bloom- 
field,  and  Chestnut  HilL  Montclair  is  a  large  suburban  village  near  Orange 
Mt.,  and  is  the  terminus  of  the  Newark  &  Bloomtleld  R.  R.  The  train  now  runs 
K.  by  several  rural  villages,  with  First  Mt.  on  the  1.,  rounds  the  mt.  and  crosses 
the  Vernon  Valley  to  lAttU  Falls,  a  factory  village  on  the  Passaic  River,  4  M.  S. 
W.  of  Paterson  and  N.  of  the  Second  Orange  Mt  The  Morris  &  Essex  Canal  here 
crosses  the  river  in  a  stone  aqueduct  Stations,  Singac,  Mt.  View,  Peauannojjk, 
and  Pompton  Plains,  in  a  rich  and  populous  valley  6  M.  long,  With  high  hills  to 
the  W.  (abounding  in  iron).  The  train  follows  the  Pequannock  River  to  the  N> 
to  Riverdale,  Pompton,  and  Pompton  Junction,  where  the  Midland  R.  R.  is  met. 
While  stationed  at  Pompton  in  1781,  a  part  of  the  Jersey  line  of  the  Continental 
army  revolted.  Faithful  troops  were  sent  against  them  and  forced  the  insurgents 
to  surrender  by  training  artillery  on  the  camp.  The  ringleaders  were  tried  by  a 
drum-head  court-martial,  and  were  "shot  to  death  with  musketry."  Station, 
Wanaque,  with  the  mines  on  High  Top  Mt.  on  the  W.,  beyond  which  the  line 
approaches  the  widenhigs  of  the  Ringwood  River.  On  the  r.  are  the  Ramapo 
Mts. :  on  the  1.  Winbeam  Mt.  Stations,  Ringwood  (near  Greenwood  liake),  and 
Monks. 

Middletown  is  66  M.  from  New  York,  and  is  often  reached  by  the 
fast  trains  on  the  Erie  Railway  in  preference  to  the  regular  line  of  the 
Midland.  The  N.  J.  Midland  R.  R.  passes  out  from  Jersey  City  through 
the  hill-country  of  New  Jersey  and  by  Hackensack  and  Paterson  to  the 


WALTON. 


JtmUe  St.     215 


fntersection  of  tlie  lu'ontclair  Division  at  Pompton  Jtinotion.  From 
Poinpton  the  R.  R.  passes  N.  W.  up  the  Pequannock  Valley  by  the  ham- 
lets of  Bloomingdale,  Charlotteburgh  (near  Copperas  Mt.)>  and  Newfound- 
land, which  lies  to  the  S.  of  the  Bear  Fort  Mts.  Beyond  Stockholm  the 
Hamburgh  Mt.  is  crossed  to  Ogdensburgh  (seat  of  the  Passaic  Zinc  Works) 
in  a  region  of  hills  ;  and  then  the  train  reaches  Franklin  Furnace,  in  the 
vicinity  of  profitable  zinc-mines.  A  R.  R.  runs  from  Franklin  S.  W.  to 
Newton,  and  to  Waterloo,  on  the  Morris  &  Essex  R.  R.  Beyond  Uam- 
burgh  the  train  passes  Pochung  Mt.  and  the  broad  Drowned  Lands  on  the 
r.,  and  reaches  Deckertoton,  a  large  village  in  the  town  of  Wantage.  This 
region  is  rich  in  rural  scenery  and  fertile  farms,  and  lies  in  the  Deep 
Clove,  a  portion  of  the  Kittatinny  Valley.  On  the  W.  is  the  Blue  Ridge, 
and  on  the  E.  is  the  Pochung  Mt.  The  town  was  settled  by  Alsatian 
Huguenots  and  New  England  Baptists  about  the  year  1740  ;  and  was  fre- 
quently desolated  by  the  Indians,  especially  at  the  massacre  of  the  Minisink. 
Beyond  Deckertown  the  R.  R.  enters  the  State  of  N.  Y.  The  line  passes  3 
small  stations  in  the  dairy-towns  of  Minisink  and  Wawayanda  (with  the 
Shawangunk  Mts.  on  the  W.),  and  then  reaches  MiddUtown  (see  page 
223),  at  the  intersection  of  the  Midland  R.  R.  and  the  Erie  Railway.  From 
Crawford  Junction,  3  M.  N.  of  Middletown,  a  branch  R.  R.  runs  N.  E. 
lOJ^  M.  to  Pine  Bitshf  in  the  uplands  of  Crawford.  The  dark  wall  of  the 
Shawangunk  Mts.  is  now  approached,  and  is  passed  by  means  of  a  tunnel 
1,470  ft.  long.  Stations,  Bloomingburgh,  and  Wurtsboro,  a  village  on 
the  Delaware  k  Hudson  Canal,  amidst  pretty  scenery.  From  SummitvUle 
station  a  branch  R.  R.  runs  8  M.  N.  E.  to  Ellenville,  a  factory  and  canal 
village  in  the  mt.  town  of  Wawarsing.  The  train  now  enters  Fallsbui^gh 
town,  passing  the  hamlets  of  Sandbui^h  (near  several  pretty  cascades) 
and  Centreville.  Fallsburgh  is  at  the  falls  of  the  Neversink  River,  and  is 
N.  of  Monticello,  on  the  Erie  R.  R.  (branch  line).  The  line  now.crosses 
the  mountainous  and  lake-strewn  town  of  Liberty  (3  stations),  with  Wal- 
nut Mt.  on  the  1.  Liberty  Falls  is  100  M.  from  N.  Y.,  and  stands  in  a 
glen  1,467  ft.  above  the  sea.  The  rugged  forest-towns  of  Rockland  and 
Colchester  are  now  traversed  and  the  Popacton  Valley  is  crossed.  Be- 
yond Cadosia  Summit  the  train  reaches  WaltMii,  which  "  stands  on  a 
knee  of  the  Delaware  with  mts.  folding  it  in  like  the  cup  of  a  water-lily. 
Walton  looks  hardly  American  to  me.  Its  river  and  its  mts.  are  like  the 
Rhine,  and  its  fields  have  an  old-country  look."  (N.  P.  Willis.)  Port 
Deposit  is  20  M.  S.  W.,  down  the  W.  Branch  Valley;  and  the  Delhi 
Branch  R.  R.  runs  N.  R  up  the  valley  to  Hamden  and  Delhi,  the  capital 
of  Delaware  County,  finely  situated  by  the  river-side. 

In  1845  occurred  the  anti-rent  insurrection  in  this  county,  when  the  rustics  or- 
ganized in  bands,  d^-sgnised  in  Indian  costumes,  and  attempted  to  abrogate  the 
semi-feudal  tenures  of  the  land  proprietors.  The  civil  authorities  were  powerless, 
and  the  Governor  placed  the  district  under  martial  law,  garrisoned  Delhi,  and 


216      JtmOeSt. 


CLINTON. 


!     ^ 


patrolled  the  hills.    After  4  months  of  military  occupation,  the  InsntTection  was 

auelled.    8.  of  Delhi  is  the  lofty  forest  town  of  Andes,  which  is  traversed  by  a 
aily  stage  line  flrom  Delhi  to  Dean's  Comers  (see  page  81). 

Beyond  Walton  the  main  line  runs  N.  W.  hy  3  rural  stations  to  Sidney 
Flaini,  where  it  intersnets  the  Albany  and  Susquehanna  R.  R.  (see  Route 
46).  From  the  next  station,  £.  Guilford,  a  branch  R.  B.  divei^es  to  the 
N.  up  the  Unadilla  Valley  by  Rockdale,  Mt.  Upton,  and  Homesville,  to 
New  Berlin  (Central  Hotel).  Stations,  Guilford,  and  Oxford^  a  pros- 
perous manufacturing  village,  where  the  line  reaches  the  Chenango  River. 
The  train  now  runs  parallel  with  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  and  Western 
R.  R.  to  Norwich,  crossing  the  Jjyon  Brook  iron  trestle-bridge,  which  is 
800  ft.  long  and  162  ft.  high.  Norwich  {Eagle  Hotel)  is  a  thriving  place, 
with  piano,  hammer,  and  carriage  factories,  and  a  population  of  4,500.  It 
is  the  capital  of  Chenango  County,  and  has  a  handsome  stone  Court 
House,  in  Corinthian  architecture. 

The  Autnim  Branch  of  the  Midland  R.  B.  extends  firom  Norwich  to  Sciplo 
Centre,  84  M.  It  crosses  the  fanning  and  dairy  towns  of  Plymouth,  Bmyma, 
OtseKc,  Georgetown,  De  Ruyter,  Cuyler,  Truxton  (near  the  picturesque  Lawador 
Pond  and  Tinker's  Falls),  Homer,  and  Cortland.  Prom  Frceville,  an  intersection 
of  several  railroads,  the  line  is  un'^.er  construction  across  the  lake  towns  of  Lui- 
sing,  Genoa,  VSnice,  and  Scipio,  to  Aubuni.  The  Utica  Division  of  the  D.,  L.  & 
W.  R.  R.  crosses  the  Midland  road  near  Norwich,  and  runs  ftrom  the  junction  to 
Utica  in  46  M.  N.  E.,  or  1 1  Binghamton  in  95  M.  S.  W. 

.   TJie  Utica  and  Rome  Divisions. 

The  Midland  train  passes  N.  flrom  Norwich  by  Smyrna  to  Earlville,  whence  the 
Syracuse  and  Chenango  Valley  R.  R.  diverges  to  tlic  N.  W.  From  the  next  sta- 
tion, Smith's  Valley,  a  branch  R.  R.  runs  to  the  N.  E.,  reaching  Utica  in  81  M. 
and  Rome  in.  35  M.  Station,  Hamilton^  an  academic  village,  with  5  churches, 
the  Hamilton  Female  Seminary,  and  the  Madison  University,  a  school  and  theo- 
logical department  of  the  Baptist  Church,  with  11  professors,  and  about  150  students. 
It  was  founded  in  1846,  and  has  an  Alumni  Hall  and  Museum.  Stations,  Pecksport, 
Bouckvilla,  SolsviUe,  Oriskany  Falls,  Deansville,  Franklin  (iron-works),  and  then 
Clintoiif  an  academic  village  of  2,000  inhabitants,  in  the  fVuit-growing  town  of 
Kirkland  (named  after  an  early  missionary  to  the  Oneidas).  Hamilton  College 
was  founded  as  an  academy  by  Rev.  Samuel  Kirkland,  in  1793,  and  became  a  col- 
lege in  1812.  It  is  situated  in  a  pleasant  park  of  15  acres,  overlooking  the  Oris- 
kany Valley,  and  has  several  plain  stone  buildings,  —  Dexter  Hall  (N.),  Kirldand 
Hall  (middle).  Hamilton  Hall  (S.),  the  Chapel,  the  Smith  Library  (with  about 
14,000  volumes),  and  the  Litchfield  Observatory,  containing  a  large  equatorial 
telescope,  by  which  8  new  asteroids  have  been  discovered.  Over  the  library  is  a 
Memorial  Hall,  and  also  a  small  portrait  gallery.  There  are  11  professora  and 
160-180  students  (1,300  alumni),  but  the  college  is  not  self-supporting,  owing  to 
a  large  number  of  free  scholarships,  and  is  somewhat  dependent  on  its  rich  en- 
dowments and  liberal  State  aid.  A  law-school  is  attached  to  the  institution. 
The  Clinton  Liberal  Institute  was  founded  by  the  Universalists  in  1832,  and  has  2 
large  buildings,  for  150  students  (both  sexes).  The  Houghton  Female  Seminary 
is  also  at  this  place,  and  has  finely  ornamented  grounds.  There  is  an  attractive  view 
of  the  village  and  its  great  schools  from  the  neighboring  hill  called  "the  Knob." 
A  R.  R.  runs  N.  W.  13  M.  from  Clinton  across  the  town  of  Westmoreland  to  the 
city  of  Rome  (see  page  167),  and  the  Utica  Division  runs  N.  E.  9  M.  to  Utica  (see 
page  166). 

The  Midland  train  (main  line)  posses  Smith's  Valley  19  M.  N.  of  Nor- 
wich, and  runs  N.  by  Eaton,  Morrisville  (a  small  hamlet,  capital  of  Modi- 
son  County),  Munnsville,  Stockbridge,  and  Oneida  Community. 


ONEIDA  LAKE. 


Haute  SB,      217 


The  Commnnity  is  8  M.  8.  of  Oneida,  and  consists  of  abont  800  men  and  women 
TBuiding  in  large  baildings  on  a  fk-uitrul  farm.  All  property  is  held  in  common, 
and  considerable  rv^veuues  are  derived  from  fruit-raising  and  the  manufiMiture  or 
traps,  hats,  and  sewing-silk.  The  Free-Love  principles  are  here  Inculcated,  and 
the  relations  of  the  sexes  are  governed  (not  by  law  nor  by  license,  but)  by  so-called 
**  inspiration."  The  Community  was  founded  by  John  H.  Noyes  in  1847,  and  hat 
a  branch  at  Wallingford,  Cunn. 

The  next  station  is  Oneida,  where  the  Midland  line  passes  under  the 
N.  Y.  Central  R.  K.  (see  page  167).  The  distance  between  the  Midland 
and  the  Ontral  stations  is  about  ^  M.  (omnibus,  10c.).  Stations,  Dur- 
hamville.  State  Bridge,  and  North  Bay,  beyond  which  the  line  follows  the 
N.  shore  of  Oneida  Lake  for  about  15  M.  The  nearer  shore  is  marshy 
and  low,  but  there  is  a  pleasant  view  to  the  S.  across  the  broad  waters  to 
the  blue  highlands  of  Onondaga  County.  Oneida  Lake  is  19  M.  long  and 
'  8  M.  wide,  covering  57,000  acres,  and  is  141)  ft.  above  Lake  Ontario.  The 
level  lands  of  the  lacustrine  counties  are  very  fertile,  and  the  chief  agri- 
cultural industries  are  dair}ingand  stock-raising.'  Cleveland  toid  Con- 
stantia  are  the  next  stations  on  the  lake. 

The  former  is  the  largest  village  on  the  lake  ;  and  Constantia  is  a  pleasant  ham- 
let, 4  M.  trom  which  is  Frenchman's  Island,  a  pretty  circular  islet  containing  25 
acres  of  primitive  forest  Here  lived  Devitzy  and  his  wife,  Wno  was  one  of 
the  loftiest  patrician  dames  of  France..    They  had  eloped,  and  were  pursued  by 

Eatemal  anger,  so  about  the  year  1800  they  fled  to  this  remote  place,  where  they 
ved  in  a  log-cabin  7  summers,  surroimded  by  flowers  and  books  and  Old- World 
luxuries.  After  7  years  the  pursuing  but  long  ago  relenting  father  found  them 
and  led  Miem  home,  where  the  great  family  estates  and  honors  were  settled  on 
them.  De  Tocqueville  penetrated  the  wilderness,  during  his  visit  to  America,  in 
order  to  visit  this  romantic  isle,  whose  former  denizens  he  had  known.  French- 
man's Island  is  a  favorite  point  for  picnic  parties,  sailing  from  the  lake  villages. 

Beyond  Constantia  the  train  enters  the  marshes  of  W.  Monroe,  and 
passes  to  Central  Square,  where  it  intefsects  the  Syracuse  Northern  R.  B., 
17  M.  from  Syracuse.  The  lowlands  of  Hastings  and  Schroeppel  are  now 
crossed  to  Fnlton  {Levns  House)^  at  the  Falls  on  Oswego  River,  with 
8,507  inhabitants,  6  churches,  and  2  weekly  papers.  On  the  opposite 
shore  is  the  hamlet  of  Oswego  Falls.  The  line  now  follows  the  Oswego 
River  by  Battle  Island  (scene  of  a  sharp  action  with  the  French  and  In- 
dians, in  1756),  to  Seneca  Hill  and 

Oswego. 

Hotels.— *DoolittIe  House,  5-600  guests,  at  the  Deep  Rock  Spring  ;  *  Reve- 
nue House,  First  St.,  corner  of  Utica  St.,  $2.50-3  a  day;  Hamilton  House,  9 2> 
2.50 ;  Ontario  House.  Beading -rooms  at  the  City  Library,  Washington  Square ; 
and  at  the  Y.  M.  0.  A.  rooms,  200  W.  IstSt  Post-Office,  corner  of  Oneida  and  W.  Isf 
Sts.  Horse-cars  traverse  First  St.  and  otlier  thoroughfares.  Stages  run  thrice 
daily  to  Unionville.  Steamers  of  the  Canadian  Navigatiou  Co.  leave  every  evening 
for  Charlotte  and  Montreal,  and  the  Northern  Transportation  Co.'s  propellers  (see 

Bige  197)  leave  every  morning  for  the  West.    Railroads.  —  The  N.  y,  &  O. 
idland  (station  on  Washington  Sqiiare)  to  N.  Y.  in  243  M. :  the  Rome,  W.  &  O. 
B.  R  to  Siichlandand  Rome  (71  M!)  ;  the  Oswego  and  Syracuse  Div.  oi  the  D., 
L.  &  W.  B.  R.  (station  near  the  Revenue  House)  to  Syracuse  (35  M.) ;  and  the 
Lake  Ontario  Shore  R.  R.  to  Lewiston  (150  M.),  connecting  for  Niagara. 
10 


r'-*" 


218     Jtoute  Si^ 


OSWEOO. 


.W 


OswBOO  is  a  thriving  oomxnercial  city  on  the  S.  shore  of  Lake  Ontario, 
situated  on  the  low  blufls  at  the  mouth  of  the  Oswego  River,  which  here 
discharges  the  waters  of  Oneida,  Onondaga,  Cayuga,  and  Seneca  Lakes. 
The  harbor  is  broad  and  capacious,  and  is  sheltered  by  long  and  costly 
piers.  Vast  quantities  of  grain  and  lumber  are  received  here,  and  are 
sent  away  by  rail  or  on  the  canal.  There  are  11  elevators,  with  a  storage 
capacity  of  over  2,000,000  bushels,  and  14  flour-mills,  with  73  run  of 
stone  and  a  capacity  of  6,000  barrels  of  flour  doily.  Kingsford's  Starch 
Factory  employs  600  men,  and  makes  33  tons  daily,  and  there  are  other 
manufactories  at  the  falls  on  the  river.  The  city  has  22,455  inhabitants, 
with  16  churches,  8  banks,  and  2  daily  papers. 

Oswego  is  handsomely  laid  out,  with  streets  100  ft.  wide  crossing  each 
other  at  right  angles.  The  river  divides  it  into  2  nearly  equal  parts,  which 
are  joined  by  2  bridges  (from  the  one  at  Bridge  St.  is  gained  a  pleasant 
view  of  the  harbor).  Near  Washington  Square,  on  the  E.  side,  are  the 
county  buildings,  the  venerable  Church  of  the  Evangelists,  the  armory  of 
the  48th  Regiment,  and  the  City  Library  (containing  12,000  volumes,  a 
portrait  of  Gerrit  Smith,  —  its  founder,  —  and  a  curious  slab  of  flexible 
marble).  Christ  Church  is  on  Cayuga  St.,  and  the  spacious  Catholic 
Church  is  on  Mohawk  St.  Fort  Ontario  is  a  strong  work  fronting  the 
lake  and  commanding  the  harbor  from  the  E.  shore.  It  is  garrisoned  by 
a  small  force,  and  is  open  to  visitors.  First  St.  W.  (W,  side  of  the  river) 
is  the  chief  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  and  passes  the  flne  stone  buildings 
of  the  Post-Office  and  the  City  Hall.  The  Normal  and  Training  School 
occupies  a  spacious  structure  on  the  comer  of  Seneca  and  Sixth  Sts.,  and 
is  widely  known  for  its  efficiency.  Tlie  Deep  Rock  Spring  was  discovered 
near  First  St.  W.  in  1867,  and  is  sai(>  to  have  much  medicinal  virtue.  Each 
gallon  cohtains  318  grains  of  chloride  of  sodium,  149  of  chloride  of  potas- 
sium, 1^  of  chloride  of  magnesium,  and  72  grains  of  silica.  The  n^w  and 
elegant  Doolittle  House  has  been  built  over  it  to  accommodate  invalid 
visitors.  The  heights  on  either  .side  of  the  city  and  fronting  the  lake  on 
the  W.  are  occupied  by  pleasant  villas  and  summer  residences. 

The  Lake  Ontario  Shore  R.  R.  runs  S.  W.  from  Oswego  through  the  lake  towns, 

Sassing  several  small  hamlets  of  Oswego  and  Wayne  Counties.  At  Sterling  (16  M. 
■om  Oswego),  it  crosses  the  S.  Central  B.  B. ;  and  at  Sodus  (41  M.)i  the  8odus 
Bay  and  Southern  R.  R.  is  intersected.  The  line  is  now  uuuipleled  by  Ontario  to 
Lewistou,  on  the  Niagara  River. 

Oswego  (an  Indian  word,  meaning  Rapid  Water)  was  first  visited  and  fortified 
by  tlie  Count  de  Fi'ontenac  (in  1C9G),  while  on  his  way  to  attacic  the  Ouondugas. 
In  1722  William  Burnett,  Gov.  of  N,  Y.  (son  of  Bishop  Burnett,  and  godson  of 
Prince  William  of  Oixingc),  erected  a  permanent  fort  at  Oswego,  and  in  1755  Gov. 
Bhirley,  of  Mass.,  advanced  hither  across  the  vast  forest  with  1,500  men,  and  built 
2  large  forts,  where  he  left  700  men  in  garrison.  In  Aug.,  1756,  the  Marquis  de 
Mon+calm  invested  the  works  with  5,000  men  (French  and  Indians),  and  after  a 
short  siege  and  a  bombartlment  from  82  heavy  puns,  the  forts  were  suiTendered 
with  1,400  soldiers,  134  pieces  of  artillery,  and  a  fleet  of  vessels.     Montcalm 


1     i 


THE  ERIE  RAILWAY.         JUmto  3S,      219 


ike  Ontario, 
which  here 
lecA  Lakes. 
;  and  costly 
ere,  and  are 
ith  a  storage 
73  run  of 
ord's  Starch 
re  are  other 
inhabitants, 

rossing  each 
parts,  which 
d  a  pleasant 
side,  are  the 
16  armory  of 
)0  volumes,  a 
b  of  flexible 
ious  Catholic 
fronting  the 
faiTisoned  by 

of  the  river) 
)ne  buildings 
fining  School 

th  Sts.,  and 
discovered 

irtue.   Each 
ide  of  potas- 
le  nwW  and 

[ate  invalid 
the  lake  on 


U  lake  towns, 

sterling  (16  M. 

'.),  the  aodus 

by  Ontario  to 

and  fortified 
be  Ouondagas. 
Did  godson  of 
U  in  1755  Gov. 
knen,  and  built 
le  Marquis  de 
I),  and  after  a 
suiTendercd 
Montcalm 


destroyed  the  works,  and  carried  his  captives  and  spoils  to  Montreal  New  (brtifl- 
cations  were  erected  by  the  English  in  1757-69  :  and  here  Ht  Leger  gathered  hia 
motley  army  of  Tories  and  Indians,  previous  to  the  siege  of  Fort  Htanwix.  Here, 
also,  his  panic-stricken  forces  fled  after  the  failure  of  that  cainimlgn.  Oswego 
was  held  by  the  royal  troops  until  1706,  when  it  pasned  into  the  Jurisdiction  of 
the  U.  S.  On  the  morning  uf  May  5,  1814.  Sir  James  Yeo's  British  fleet  appeared 
oil  he  place  and  bombarded  it  for  3  hours.  Fort  Ontario  kept  up  a  steady  tli-e, 
but  the  enemy  landed  1.200  men  and  the  garrison  retreated  slowly  up  the  river. 
The  British  destroyed  the  barracks  and  spiked  the  fortress-cannon,  but  failed  to 
reach  the  great  deposit  of  naval  store!)  at  the  Falls,  and  embarked  the  next  dnv, 
having  lost  235  men  (American  loas.  6(i).  The  little  hamlet  founded  at  Oswego  in 
1790  by  Neil  McMullin  was  devoted  to  building  vessels  :  and  after  the  introduc- 
tion of  steam-navigation  on  Lake  Ontario  in  1810,  the  place  grew  rapidly  in  com- 
merce and  manufactures.  It  is  now  second  only  to  Rochester  in  the  amount  of 
flour  produced. 

33.   New  Tork  to  Elmira,  BuflSedo,  and  Hiagara  Falls. 

The  Erie  Railway. 

This  great  trunk-line  to  the  West  traverses  a  country  which  is  more  picturesque 
and  romantic  than  that  along  the  line  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.,  though  the  fat- 
ter line  derives  an  advantage  fVom  passing  through  tlie  handsome  cities  of  Central 
N.  Y.  Pullman  parlor  and  Hleeping  cars  are  attached  to  the  through  cars  on  the 
Erie  :  and  there  aft  comfortable  arrangements  for  meals  alun^  the  route.  The 
Day-Express  tnin  leaves  N.  Y.  in  the  morning,  and  reaches  BufTulo  in  16  hrs.  ; 
Cleveland  in  23^  hrs.  :  Cincinnati  in  34  hrs.  ;  Chicago  in  36  hrs.  The  Pacilic  Ex- 
press leaves  eiirly  in  the  evening,  and  reaches  Eiiifalo  about  noon  the  next  day. 

Farefu  —  New  York  to  Suflt>m.  $1 ;  to  Port  Jervis,  9  2.70;  to  Cochecton, 
$4  ;  to  Hancock.  95  :  to Binghamton.  $6.15  ;  to  Waverly,  $6.95  ;  to  Elmira.  $7.25  ; 
to  Homellsville,  $8.50 ;  to  Buffalo  or  Niagara.  $9.25 ;  to  Salamanca  or  Dunkirk, 
$10.40;  to  Erie.  $11.75;  to  Toronto.  $12.25;  to  Cleveland.  $14.25;  to  De- 
troit. $16.25;  to  Chicinnati,  $20;  to  Chicago,  $22;  to  St.  Louis,  $27;  to 
Memphis.  $38.25  ;  to  Mobile,  $45  ;  to  New  Orleans.  $50  ;  to  Galveston,  $68.75  r 
toSt  Paul.  $37.25  ;  to  Omaha,  $39.50;  to  Denver,  $79.90 ;  in  Salt  Lake  City, 
9 119.50  ;  to  San  Francisco,  $  139.60  ;  to  Portland,  Or,  $169.50  or  $179.50. 

Stations.  — New  York;  Jersey  City;  Rutherford  Park,  9  M. ;  Passaic,  11 ; 
Paterson,  16  ;  Ridgewood.  21 ;  Hohokus,  23  ;  Allendale,  25  ;  Ramsey's.  27  ;  Suffem, 
81 ;  Ramapo,  33  ;  Sloatsburgh,  35  ;  Southfleld's,  41 ;  Newburgh  June.  41  (branch 
to  Newburgh.  63) ;  Turner's.  47 ;  Monroe,  49 ;  Oxford,  51 ;  Greycourt,  63 ; 
Goshen,  59  ;  Hampton,  63  ;  Middletown,  66  ;  Howell's,  70  ;  OtisviUe,  75  ;  Port 
Jervis,  87 ;  Shohola,  106 ;  Lackawaxen,  110  ;  Pine  Grove,  116 ;  Narrowrsburgh, 
122  ;  Cochecton,  130 ;  Calicoon,  135  ;  Rock  Run.  138 ;  Tlasket.  146^  ;  Lordville, 
152J;  Hancock,  16.'i ;  Dickinson's,  169 :  Hale's  Eddy,  171*:  Deposit,  176  ;  Sum- 
mit, 183  ;  Susquehanna.  192  ;  Great  Bend.  200  ;  Kirkwood,  205  ;  Binghamton,  214 ; 
Hooper,  220  ;  Union,  223 ;  Campville,  229  ;  Oswego.  236  ;  Tioga,  241 ;  Smithboro', 
246 ;  Barton,  248 ;  Waverly,  255  ;  Chemung.  260  ;  Wellsburg.  266  ;  Elmira,  275  ; 
Big  Flats,  283 ;  Coming,  290  (branch  line  to  Rochester,  385) ;  Painted  Post,  2'.)2 ; 
Addison,  301 ;  Rathboneville,  306  ;  Cameron,  314  ;  Adrian,  322  ;  Canisteo,  327  ; 
Homellsville,  331  ;  Alfred,  340 ;  Andover,  349  ;  Genesee.  357  ;  Phillipsville, 
865  :  Belvidere,  369  ;  Friendsliip,  373  ;  Cuba,  382  :  Olean,  394 ;  Allegany,  898  ; 
Carrollton,  407  ;  Great  Valley,  410 ;  Salamanca.  413  ;  Little  Valley.  421  ;  Cattarau- 

fus,  428 :  Dayton,  437  ;  Perrysburgh,  440  ;  Smith's  Mills,  447 ;  Forestville,  451 ; 
Dunkirk,  459.  Buffalo  Division.  Homellsville,  331 ;  Canaseraga,  343 ;  Nnnda, 
855 ;  Portage,  361  ;  Castile,  365  ;  Gainesville,  367  ;  Warsaw,  374  ;  Linden.  .H85 ; 
Attica,  391 ;  Darlen,  397  ;  Alden.  403  ;  Lancaster,  412  ;  Buffalo,  422  ;  Suspension 
Bridge.  443  ;  Cleveland,  605  ;  Chicago,  961. 

Northern  R.  R.  of  N.  J. 

New  York  to  Nyack,  29  JI.  ;  time,  1^-2  hrs.  Soon  after  leaving  Jersey  City 
the  line  turns  to  the  N.  between  tlie  heights  of  Hoboken  and  the  broad  marslies 
of  the  Hackensack  River.  The  enening  stations  are  at  suburban  villages  which 
are  more  or  less  dependent  on  New  You.    New  Durham  is  W.  of  Weehawken  on 


220     Route  SS, 


PATEBSON. 


tli«>  Hudson  )  Ornnton  ii  W.  of  Bull's  Ferrr ;  Ridgefleld  Park  hu  a  Inrgs  summer 
hotel ;  and  Leonia  is  N.  W.  of  Fort  Lee.  The  lino  thonce  aMcendM  the  fertile  val> 
ley  by  Van  Brunt's,  and  Enulewood,  which  is  near  the  *  Palisade  Mountain  llouse, 
opposite  the  N.  end  of  Manhattan  Island.  Stations,  Highland,  Tenafly  (near 
liighwood  Parle,  on  the  PallHados  opposite  Yonkers),  Cresskill,  Closter(nr  i)ld 
Hook,  in  the  Ilackensack  Valley),  and  Norwood,  btiyond  which  it  cntoru  New 
York  and  passes  Tapi>un,  and  runs  M.  along  the  Hudsou  shore  to  Piermont  and 
Nyack  (see  page  60). 

The  Hackenmck  Branch, 

StoHotu.  —New  York ;  Jersey  City :  Erie  Juno.,  8 ;  Carlsiadt.  9 ;  Woodrldge.lO ; 
liodi  June,  12 ;  HackcuHack,  13 ;  Cherry  Hill,  16 ;  River  Edge,  17  ;  Oradell,  18  ; 
Kinderkainack,  20 :  Westwood,  21  :  IlillBdulc,  22 ;  Posnack,  29  ;  Park  Bidge,  24 ; 
Nanuct,  28  ;  Spring  Valloy,  BO  ;  Suflem,  87. 

After  leaving  Jersey  City  the  train  passes  out  through  N.  Bergen  and  crosses 
the  Hackensack  meadows  and  river  to  Erie  Junction,  where  it  diverges  to  the  N. 
E.  through  the  German  village  of  Carlstadt.  Stations.  Woodridge,  Corona,  Lodi 
Junction  (whence  a  branch  P.  R.  runs  to  Lodi),  and  Hackentaclc  {Ilackenaack 
Houk),  an  ancient  village  with  9  churches  and  the  buildings  of  Bergen  Countv. 
It  is  at  the  intersection  of  the  present  sub-route  with  the  Midland  R.  R. ;  and  is 
in  the  fertile  and  wealthy  Hackensack  Valley  (nearly  midway  between  Fort  Lee 
and  Paterson).  Tlie  village  was  partially  burnt  by  the  Hessians  in  1780 ;  and 
Was  the  scene  of  several  sliarp  skirmishes.  The  train  now  ascends  the  valley, 
with  the  Palisade  highlands  on  the  r.,  traverses  the  level  daitfr-town  of  Washing- 
ton,  enters  the  State  of  N.  Y.,  and  reaches  Nanuet,  on  the  Picminnt  Brnrich  R.  R., 
whence  a  R.  R.  is  to  be  built  N.  to  New  City.  Irom  Nanuet  the  traic  runs  W. 
9  M.  to  Suffem  (see  page  221). 

Passengers  leave  the  foot  of  Chambers  or  of  23cl  St.,  and  cross  to  the 
Erie  terminal  station  in  Jersey  City,  whence  the  train  runs  out  through 
the  6ei*gen  tunnel,  piercing  for  |  M.  the  rocky  ledges  of  Bergen  Heights. 
Passing  over  the  flat  marshes  of  Secaucus,  with  Snake  Hill  on  the  1., 
the  line  crosses  the  Hackensack  River  and  a  wide  moorland,  with  the 
Boonton  Branch  R.  R.  on  the  W.,  and  the  Hackensack  Branch  diverging 
on  the  r.  Beyond  the  low  heights  of  Rutlierfurd  Park  ( Union  Hotel), 
the  Passaic  River  is  crossed  to  Passaic  ( Passaic  Hotel),  the  ancient  village 
of  Acquackanonck,  bought  by  the  Dutch  from  the  Sachem  Captahem. 
Tliis  village  has  9  churches,  and  large  print-workti  near  the  river.  The 
train  now  reaches  Pi^terson  (Hamilton  House,  $  3  a  day ;  Franklin  House, 
on  Main  St.),  the  capital  of  Passaio  County,  and  a  prosperous  city  of 
83,579  inhabitants.  It  was  founded  in  1791  by  Alexander  Hamilton's 
efforts,  and  was  designed  for  **  a  great  emporium  of  manufactures."  In  so 
far  has  this  scheme  succeeded  that  Patersou  is  now  one  of  the  first  manufac- 
turing cities  in  New  Jersey.  There  are  many  cotton-mills  on  the  water- 
power  afforded  by  the  Passaic  Falls;  also  the  Passaic  Flax- Works,  im- 
mense locomotive-works,  the  mills  of  the  American  Velvet  Company,  and 
the  largest  eilk-factory  in  the  U.  S.  (established  in  1840),  employing  800 
hands,  and  making  $  2,000,000  worth  of  silk  yearly.  The  city  has  2  daily 
papers,  2  banks,  and  34  churches  (including  4  of  Hollanders).  The 
streets  are  broad  and  well  laid  out,  and  2  bridges  cross  td  the  suburb 
of  Manchester.  The  *  Passaio  Falls  are  within  the  city  limits,  and  are 
surrounded  by  a  small  and  rugged  park.    The  river  here  falls  perpendic' 


THE  RAMAPO  VALLEY.        nauU33.      221 


nlarly  about  60  ft.  into  a  deep  crevice  between  palisades  of  banalt,  and 
affonls  u  line  night  at  time  of  high  water.  Below  the  falls  (which  are 
best  aeon  from  the  bridge)  the  river  bends  sharply,  and  flows  through  a 
dark  gorge  betweeii  high  rectilinear  basaltic  walls.  On  a  cliff  in  this 
vicinity  is  a  liundHome  monument  in  honor  of  the  soldiers  of  Paterson  in 
the  Secession  War ,  unci  alHO  a  belvidere  tower,  which  overlooks  the  city 
and  much  of  Passaic  County.  Near  the  latter  are  the  high  reservoirs  of 
the  water-worka.  Paterson  is  a  station  on  the  Midland,  the  Paterson  and 
Newark  (11  M.),  and  the  Del.,  Lack,  and  Western  R.  Bs.;  also  on  the 
Morris  and  Essex  Canal. 

The  Erie  train  now  runs  N.  through  a  fertile  conntry  by  several  rural 
hamlets,  approaches  the  Ramapo  Mts.  on  the  W.,  enters  the  State  of 
N.  Y.,  and  reaches  Siifem.  A  branch  line  runs  hence  18  M.  S.  E.  to 
Sparkiil  and  Piermont  (see  page  65),  from  which  a  spur  is  to  run  N.  (from 
Spring  Valley)  to  Orassy  Point,  on  the  Hudson.  The  next  station  on  the 
main  line  is  Bamapo  {Terrace  House),  whence  may  be  visited  the  beautiful 
scenery  of  the  Ramapo  Valley.  From  this  point  the  Tom  Mt.  is  ascended, 
revealing  a  view  extending  over  N.  Y.  harbor.  Washington  visited  this 
peak  in  order  to  observe  the  British  camps  and  fleets  about  N.  Y.  2  M. 
W.  is  the  lofty  Potague  Lake,  commanding  a  view  of  the  Ramapo  Gap 
and  Valley.  The  Mt.  Lake  House  is  a  summer  hotel  at  Mahwah.  1  M. 
beyond  the  village  the  Sterling  Mt.  R.  R.  diverges  to  the  N.  W.,  and  runs 
74  M.  through  the  Bellvaie  Mts.  to  Lakeville,  on  Sterling  Pond  and  near 
Greenwood  Lake.  Beyond  Sloatsburgh  (on  the  r.)  are  seen  the  ivy-clad 
ruins  of  the  Augusta  Iron- Works,  where  the  chain  was  forged  which  was 
stretched  across  the  Hudson  in  1776.  The  train  continues  up  the  Ramapo 
Valley  to  Turner*!*  which  is  situated  in  one  of  the  fairest  parts  of  the 
district.  It  has  achieved  considerable  success  as  a  summer  resort,  the 
surrounding  views  being  pleasant,  and  the  country  abounding  in  fine 
roads.  There  are  several  highland  lakes  (Tmxedo,  Mount  Basha,  Round, 
etc.;  with  fine  pickerel-fishing)  in  the  vicinity;  and  a  road  leads  14  M. 
N.  R,  through  a  wild  forest  district,  to  West  Point  (see  page  75).  The 
high  hill  near  the  station  overlooks  the  Ramapo  Gap,  the  Hudson  River, 
and  Newburgh.  The  elegant  summer  hotel  and  railway  dining-room  at 
Turner's  (of  brick;  4  stories  high  and  400  ft.  long)  was  destroyed  by  fire, 
Dec.  26, 1873. 

The  Newburgh  Branch  R.  E.  trains  run  from  Turner's  to  Newburgh  in 
18-20  M.,  passing  Highland  Mills  (Oomwell's  Lake  House,  1,200  ft. 
above  the  Hudson),  and  then  traversing  the  Schunemunk  Mts.  through 
Woodbury  Gove.  Beyond  Cornwall  (6  -  7  M.  W.  of  Coniwall-on-Hudson) 
the  line  meets  the  Greycourt  Branch  at  Vail's  Gate,  whence  it  runs  through 
the  arable  hills  of  New  Windsor  to  Newburgh  (see  page  76).  The  Erie 
train  on  the  main  line  passes  from  Turner's  to  Monroe  ( Wabeck  Housed  a 


222     Route  SS, 


GREENWOOD  LAKE. 


I 


I  i 

I  I 
I  ! 


pleasant  highland  hamlet  in  the  lake  country  of  Orange  County.  Xear 
this  station  is  the  Seven  Spring^  Mountain  House,  accommodating  400 
guests  (at  $3  a  day)  in  spacious  stone  buildings. 

Greenwood  Lake  (*  Windermere  HouMf  with  spacious  grounds ; 
*  Brandon  House^  $  3  a  day,  $  15  a  week)  is  reached  by  stages  from  Mon- 
roe  after  a  ride  of  10  M.  down  a  pleasant  valley  (2  hours).  It  is  also 
visited  from  other  adjacent  stations.  The  Traphagen  House  is  a  new 
and  elegant  summer-hotel,  pleasantly  located  on  the  E.  arm  of  the 
lake.  The  steamers  make  semi-daily  trips.  The  lake  is  10  M.  long 
(partly  artificial)  and  1  M.  wide,  and  has  been  called  "  a  miniature  Lake 
(}eoige,"  being  inwalled  by  rugged  mts.  The  water  is  very  clear,  and 
contains  many  fish.  Wawayondah,  Macopin,  Sterling,  and  other  lakelets 
are  visited  hence,  and  a  pleasant  road  leads  to  Warwick  in  7  M.,  passing 
over  the  mts.  and  overlooking  the  Warwick  Woodlands. 

From  Greycourt  station  a  branch  R.  R.  runs  N.  E.  to  Newburgh  in 
l8  M. ;  and  the  Warwick  Branch  runs  S.  W.  to  the  pleasant  village  of 
Wanoiek.  The  train  now  traverses  the  rich  dairy-lands  of  Orange  County, 
and  crossing  the  fertile  Greycourt  Meadows  (with  Sugar-Loaf  Mt.  visible), 
the  hamlet  of  Chester  is  passed,  and  the  line  reaches  Goshen,  a  pretty 
Village  of  2,205  inhabitants,  with  4  churches  and  several  classical  schools. 
There  is  a  monument  in  the  public  square  in  memory  of  the  men  of 
Gbshen  who  fell  in  battle  at  Lackawaxen,  in  1779.  It  is  a  semi-capital 
of  Orange  County,  the  great  dairy  of  N.  Y.  City;  and  Goshen  butter  is  iH 
high  I'epute.  Besides  great  quantities  of  biitter,  cheese,  and  condensed 
milk,  this  district  supplies  the  metropolis  with  many  small  fruits  and 
Vegetables.  A  railroad  nms  S.  W.  from  €k>shen  12  M.  to  Pine  Jslandf 
tn  the  Drowned  Lands  of  Warwick,  W.  of  the  Bellvale  Mts. 

Hie  Walkill  Valley  Branch  extends  from  Goshen  to  Kingston  in  43  M.  The  line 
runs  N.  E.  to  the  manufacturing  villages  of  Montgomery  and  Walden,  E.  of  the  Com- 
fort Hills.  The  Shawangunk  Mts.  are  seen  on  the  1.  as  the  train  traverses  the  towns 
Of  Shawangunk  and  Gardiner,  and  the  pretty  village  of  New  Paltz  is  next  seen, 
on  the  widening  intervales  of  the  Walkill.  9  M.  E.  is  New  Paltz  Landing,  on  the 
Hndson  ;  and  to  the  W.  is  seen  Paltz  Point,  one  of  the  chief  Shawangunk  peaks. 

liftke  Molionlc  (*  Mountain  House,  125  guests  ;  $  14  - 18  a  week)  is  6  M.  fi'om 
New  Paltz,  and  is  on  one  of  the  highest  ridges  of  the  Shawangunk  Mts.,  1,248  ft, 
above  the  Hudson  River.  It  is  |  M.  long,  very  deep,  and  filled  with  fish,  while 
its  shores  arc  formed  by  great  piles  of  quartz  rock,  and  Paltz  Point  looms  boldly 
over  the  quiet  waters.  Sky-Top  is  a  j)eak  on  the  N.,  800  ft.  higher  than  the  lake^ 
and  commanding  a  fine  *view,  includmgthe  populous  Walkill  and  Esopus  Valleys, 
the  ridges  of  the  Shawangunk,  the  Hudson  Highlands,  and  the  Berkshire  Hills. 
Eagle  Rock,  Sunset  Rock,  the  Balance  Rock,  and  the  Labyrinth  are  favorite  re- 
sorts near  the  lake.  5}  M.  from  Lake  Mohonk  are  the  HlKh  Falls,  on  the 
Rondout  Creek.  The  Lake  is  reached  by  stages  connecting  with  the  day-boats 
lioin  N.  Y.  at  Poughkeepsie  (14^  M.),  and  by  semi-daily  st^es  from  the  Erie  Rail<- 
way  trains  at  New  Paltz.    N.  Y.  to  Lake  Mohonk,  5|  hrs.  (by  Erie  line). 

The  main  line  beyond  Gtoshen  crosses  the  town  of  Wawayanda  (in  the 
Walkill  Valley),  which  sends  27,000  gallons  of  milk  to  N.  Y.  daily 
(statioQi  Hampton),  and  intersects  the  N.  Y.  and  0.  Midland  R.  R.  at 


*i 


(  i 


PORT  JERVIS. 


Route  33.      223 


)imty.    Near 
uodating  400 

ns  grounds; 
es  from  Mon- 
i).    It  is  also 
iise  is  a  new 
.  arm  of  the 
is  10  M.  long 
iniatiiTe  Lake 
sry  dear,  and 
other  lakelets 
7  M.,  passing 

Newburgh  in 
jant  village  of 
)range  County, 
af  Mt.  visible), 
islien,  a  pretty 
assical  schools. 
)f  the  men  of 
i  a  semi-capital 
len  butter  is  in 
and  condensed 
nail  fruits  and 
Pine  Jslandf 

43  M.  The  line 
n,  E.  of  the  Com- 
verses  the  towns 
U  is  next  seen, 
Landing,  on  the 
wangunk  peaks. 
!ek)i8  6M.  ft-om 
k  Mta.,  1,243  ft. 
with  fish,  while 
nt  looms  boldly 
r  than  the  lake,. 
Esopus  Valleys, 
Berkshire  HiUs. 
are  favorite  re- 
Falls,  on  the 
the  day-boats 
the  Erie  Rail- 
line). 

lyanda  (in  the 

N.  Y.  daUy 

land  B.  B.  at 


Xiddletown  {Grand  Central ;  Ogden  House).  This  is  a  brisk  manufac 
turing  place,  with  6,049  inhabitants,  8  churches,  3  banks,  5  newspapers, 
and  a  printing-office  that  supplies  "  patent  outsides  "  to  60  different  rural 
papers.  There  is  an  active  fire  department,  a  system  of  graded  schools, 
and  water- works  connected  with  Monhagan  Lake.  W.  of  the  village  is 
the  new  State  Homoeopathic  Insane  Asylum.  The  train  enters  the  hills 
beyond  Howell's  station,  and  at  Otisville  rapidly  ascends  the  Shawangxmk 
Mts.  It  was  at  first  thought  best  to  tunnel  through  this  barrier-ridge, 
but  the  present  system  of  planes  was  finally  adopted  (40  ft.  to  the  M.). 
The  summit  is  passed  in  a  deep  rock-cut  (50  ft.  deep  and  \  M.  long),  and 
the  track  descends  on  the  W.  45  ft.  to  the  M.  The  line  runs  S.  W.  on 
lofty  galleries,  and  beautiful  views  of  the  Neversink  Valley  are  afforded, 
with  Milford  and  Port  Jervis  in  the  distance  (the  best  views  are  from  the 
r.  of  the  train).  With  fascinating  prospects  of  rugged  mts.  and  fruitful 
valleys  on  either  side,  the  train  sweeps  down  to  Onymard  (*  G^cj/mard 
Spring  House^  $2.50  a  day,  $12  a  week),  situated  on  a  spur  of  the 
Shawangunk  Mts.  over  the  Neversink  River.  The  views  from  Look-off 
Point  and  Mt.  Camerdon  are  attractive,  and  a  noble  view  is  enjoyed  from 
the  peak  called  Prospect  Point,  including  Guymard,  Huguenot,  Port 
Jer^'i8,  the  Neversink  and  Delaware  Valleys,  and  a  vast  wilderness  of 
rugged  peaks  terminated  by  Storm  King  on  the  Hudson  River. 

The  Neversink  is  followed  to  its  confluence  with  the  Delaware  River  at 
Fort  Jervis  {Delaware  Hoxise  :  Fowler  House),  at  the  comer  boundary 
of  the  States  of  N.  Y.,  N.  J.,  and  Penn.  This  place  has  8,700  inhabi- 
tants, and  7  churches,  and  is  the  seat  of  extensive  R.  R.  shops.  The 
round-houses  have  stalls  for  60  locomotives.  The  village  was  named  for 
John  6.  Jervis,  the  engineer  of  the  D.  &  H.  Canal,  by  which  Penn.  coal 
passes  this  point  and  is  carried  to  tide-water  on  the  Hudson.  The  scenery 
in  the  district  is  very  striking,  and  attnufts  many  summer  visitors.  Point 
Peter  is  often  visited  from  this  point,  and  commands  a  pleasing  view,  in- 
eluding  Port  Jervis  and  the  valleys,  and  Mts.  Sullivan,  Williams,  and 
other  tall  peaks. 

The  Delaware  Valley  has  fine  caniage-roads  leading  through  pretty  scenery. 
"Prom  the  N.  border  to  the  famous  Water  Gap,  40  M.  S.,  stretches  a  gigantic 
'  ridge,  compacted  of  slate  and  shale,  overhanging  the  rich  meadow-banks  of  the 
Delaware,,  and  fringed  with  pine  and  lir.  .  .  .  .  Along  this  romantic"  valley  are 
cliffs  of  wildest,  cn^est  forms,  and  streams  as  virginal  as  when  they  were  the 
Indian  maiden's  bath  and  mirror.  They  tumble  over  the  great  bluffs  into  the 
lowlands  and  the  welcoming  river  even  at  their  own  sweet  will.  Shut  in  with 
woods  and  buttressed  with  mighty  walls  of  rock,  are  cascades  lovely  as  any  in  the 

world, -^almost  peerless  in  grace  and  variety  of  feature It  is  a  Morning 

Land,  with  every  cliff  facing  the  risen  sun.  The  mist  and  languor  are  in  grain- 
fields  far  below ;  the  hills  themselves  are  '»f  the  richest,  darkest  green  ;  the  skies 
are  blue  and  fiery ;  the  air  is  crisp,  transparent,  oxygenated,  American."  (Stbd- 
MAN.)  Milford  (DimmfcA;  Home)  is  1  hour's  stage-ride  8.  W.  of  Port  Jervis, 
crowning  a  plateau  beside  the  river  and  (according  to  Willis)  "  looking  like  a 
town  that  all  the  mts.  around  have  disowned  and  kicked  into  the  middle."    Near 


I    ■! 


I  I 
1  i 

I  I 

I ! 


ii    i 


224     RouU  3S, 


LACKAWAXEN. 


Dimmick's  is  the  picturesque  Sawkill  CHen(fl-8  M.  from  Port  Jervis).  with  deep 
gorges  and  trout-pools,  and  the  *  Sawlcill  Falls,  "  whose  grace  is  the  despair  of 
artists."  "  But  Raymondskill  is  the  acknowledged  monarch  of  our  Milfonl  fluvi- 
archy,"  and  has  several  lovely  cataracts  (Bridal  Veil,  Main  Fall,  etc.). 

A  branch  B.  R.  runs  from  Port  Jervis  24  M.  N.  to  Monticello,  following  the  Never- 
sink  Valley.  Stations,  Huguenot,  Rose  Point,  Oakland,  and  Hartwood,  W.  of 
which  are  the  Mongaup  Falls  (70  ft.),  in  a  deep  chasm  on  the  Mongaup  River. 
Stations,  Bamum'K,  Newfoundland,  and  Monticello  (Monticello ;  Mansion),  a 
highland  village  finely  situated  1,387  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  surrounded  by  hills.  It 
is  the  capital  of  Sullivan  County,  and  the  main  street  is  1  M.  long  and  130  ft. 
wide,  with  flagged  sidewalks  and  lines  of  shade-trees.  The  cotmty  buildings  are 
of  stone,  and  there  are  4  churches.  Pleasant,  or  Kiamesha,  Pond,  is  1  M.  from 
the  village,  and  has  a  summer  boarding-house  on  its  shore.  The  N.  Y.  and  O. 
Midland  R.  R.  U  4-6  M.  N.  E.  of  Monticello. 

The  train  crosses  the  Delaware  3  M.  beyond  Port  Jervis,  and  runs  for 
26  M.-  in  the  State  of  Penn.,  in  the  midst  of  pleasant  and  picturesciue 
scenery.  The  line  follows  closely  the  river  and  canal,  and  l>eyond 
Stairway  Brook  the  track  is  laid  on  broad  galleries  hewn  high  up  in  the 
S.  cliffs.  The  surveyors  who  located  it  were  lowered  by  ropes  from  the 
summit.  Pond  Eddy  is  at  a  broad  curving  basin  of  the  Delaware  ;  and 
from  Shohola  a  suspension  bridge  conducts  to  Barryville,  on  the  N.  Y. 
shore.  The  railroad  for  a  long  distance  on  this  section  cost  $  100,000  a 
mile,  and  looks  down  from  its  lofty  courae  upon  the  pleasant  meadows 
of  Lumberland.  Station,  Ltickatoaxen,  at  the  confluence  of  Lackawaxen 
Creek  and  Delaware  River.  The  canal  here  crosses  the  river  by  a  suspen- 
sion bridge;  and  the  railroad  bridges  the  Lackawaxen. 

S.  of  Lackawaxen  is  the  wilderness-county  of  Pike,  12,000  acres  of  which  are 
occupied  by  the  BloomlnB  Orove  Park«  belonging  to  a  sporting  club  and 
guarded  by  foresters.  Amid  these  dense  forests  and  lakes  are  3  -  400  deer,  with 
many  foxes,  hares,  bears,  and  game  birds  and  fish.  The  proprietors  have  summer 
shooting-lodges  in  the  park. 

The  Honesdale  Branch  B.  B.  runs  W.  up  the  valley  of  the  Lackawaxen  Creek, 
through  the  rugged  and  sparsely  inhabited  highlands  of  Pike  and  Wayne  Counties, 
to  Honesdale  (25  M.),  passing  Hawley. 

7  M.  from  Lackawaxen  the  train  crosses  the  Delaware  by  a  bridge  600 
ft.  long,  and  re-enters  N.  Y.  State  at  Tusten,  a  forest  town  of  Sullivan 
County.  Station,  Narrowsburg  (summer  hotel),  at  the  Big  Eddy,  where 
the  Delaware  is  compressed  into  a  narrow  channel  by  two  rocky  promon- 
tories. A  single-span  bridge  here  crosses  the  river;  and  a  road  leads  E. 
into  the  lake-strewn  towns  of  Highland  and  Lumberland,  passing  several 
of  the  hundred  lakes  of  Sullivan  County.  The  vicinity  of  Narrowsburg 
■was  the  scene  of  Cooper's  novel,  "The  Last  of  the  Mohicans."  The 
scenery  is  less  interesting  as  the  train  passes  Cochecton^  which  is  near 
Damascus,  Penn.,  and  is  W.  of  the  many  trout-abounding  lakes  of  Bethel. 
CaUicoon  is  near  Galilee,  Penn.,  and  the  pretty  natural  scenery  of  Calli- 
coon  Creek.  Stations,  Hankins  and  Basket  (at  the  new  factory  village  of 
Douglas),  beyond  which  the  train  passes  along  the  bases  of  the  mountain- 
ous bluffs  of  Delaware  County.  Lordville  is  opposite  the  Penn.  hamlet 
of  Equinunk ;  Stockport  is  the  station  for  a  village  of  Penn.  on  the  r. 


SUSQUEHANNA. 


JtauU  SS.      225 


r!s),  with  deep 
the  despair  of 
'  Milfonl  iiuvi- 

nngtheNever- 
.rtwood,  W.  of 
ongaup  River. 
o;  Mansion),  a 
ed  by  hills.  It 
>ng  and  130  ft. 
^buildings  are 
d,  is  1  M.  flrom 
e  N.  Y.  and  O. 

and  runs  for 
1  picturesciiie 
nii<l  beyond 
ligh  up  in  the 
)pes  from  the 
•elaware ;  and 
on  the  N.  Y. 
;t  $100,000  a 
sant  meadows 
r  Lackawaxen 
r  by  a  suspen> 


»s  of  which  are 

rting  club  and 

400  deer,  with 

B  have  summer 

:awaxen  Creelc, 
ayne  Counties, 

a  bridge  600 
of  Sullivan 
Eddy,  where 
)cky  promon- 
Iroad  leads  E. 
ising  several 
iNarrowsburg 
licans."  The 
^hich  ifi  near 
Les  of  Bethel, 
aery  of  Calli- 
^ry  village  of 
I  mountain- 
'enn.  hamlet 
an.  on  the  r. 


bank.  The  train  passes  a  long  ridge  on  the  r.  and  crosses  the  R  Branch 
of  the  Delaware,  then  reaches  Haiicock,  a  pleasantly  situated  village  with 
a  suspension  bridge  on  the  W.,  and  a  plank  road  (stages  for  Hamden  and 
Delhi)  running  up  the  Popacton  Valley  to  Walton.  Tlie  K  bluffs  are 
now  skirted  on  the  r.,  and  beyond  Hale's  Eddy  the  train  reaches  Deposit, 
at  the  great  bend  in  the  W.  Branch  of  the  Delaware.  It  is  at  the  mouth 
of  Oquago  Creek,  and  was  formerly  an  important  place  of  depoaii  for 
lumber  awaiting  the  spring  freshets.  Extensive  cattle-yards  are  now 
located  here.  The  line  leaves  the  Delaware  Valley  and  begins  to  rise 
over  heavy  grades  through  a  desolate  land  of  hills.  It  ascends  369  ft.  in 
8  M.,  and  reaches  the  lonely  station  of  Summit,  1,366  ft.  above  the  sea. 
Then  ensues  a  descent  of  8  M.  on  a  grade  of  60  ft.  to  the  M.  4  M.  from 
Sumviit  the  train  crosses  the  site  of  the  Cascade  Bridge,  a  light  and 
graceful  structure  of  wood  and  iron  which  spanned  a  dark  ravine  250  ft. 
wide  and  184  ft.  deep.  It  has  been  replaced  by  a  lofty  embankment. 
A  pleasant  *  view  of  the  Susquehanna  River  and  Valley  is  gained  on  the 
r.;  and  the  train,  entering  the  State  of  Penn.,  crosses  the  famous  *  Sta* 
ruoca  Yiadnct.  This  noble  piece  of  masoniy  (built  in  2^  years)  cost 
$  325,000,  and  crosses  the  Starucca  Valley  by  18  arches,  with  a  length  of 
1,200  ft.  and  a  height  of  110  ft.  The  valley  ana  viaduct  as  seen  in 
autumn  have  been  celebrated  by  Cropsey  in  a  brilliant  painting.  Cross- 
ing the  Canauacta  Creek  at  Lanes1)orough  on  a  long  trestle-work,  the 
train  stops  at  Susquehanna  (*  Stantcca  Hotel,  at  the  station ;  passengers 
get  good  meals  in  the  lofty  and  eleganj  dining-room).  This  village  con- 
tains the  R  B.  repair-shops,  and  is  sometimes  called  ''The  City  of 
Stairs,"  from  the  steepness  of  its  streets  and  declivities.  It  was  occupied 
by  Penn.  troops  in  March  and  April,  1874,  to  prevent  destruction  of 
property  by  insurgent  employes.  The  buildings  and  machinery  are 
the  best  in  America,  covering  8  acres,  in  16  departments,  and  valued  at 
$  1,750,000.  Opposite  Susquehanna  is  the  massive  Oquago  Mt. ;  and  2 
M.  beyond  the  train  passes  the  Painted  Hocks,  where  the  first  settlers 
found,  high  up  on  the  cliifs,  a  painting  of  an  Indian  chief.  The  Jefferson 
Branch  runs  S.  from  Susquehanna  to  Carbondale  (38  M. )  and  the  coal- 
fields of  Luzerne  County.  The  Susquehanna  River  is  crossed  (beyond  the 
Starucca  Hotel)  on  a  bridge  800  ft.  long,  and  the  train  traverses  level 
grades  between  the  river  and  the  tall  hills  on  the  r.,  and  stops  at  Great 
Bend,  whose  village  is  on  the  farther  shore.  Here  the  i)el.,  Lack.  & 
Western  R.  B.  comes  in  from  the  great  coal-fields  of  Penn.,  bringing  long 
coal-trains  for  tlie  Erie  western  trade.  Its  track  runs  parallel  to  the 
Erie  (on  the  r.  bank)  as  far  as  Binghamton.  Beyond  Kirkwood  the 
present  route  reaches  BinghamtoxL 

10*  o 


220    nouhi  sx 


BINOHAMTON. 


!  >  i 

I  I  '^ 
41 


\ 


r 


15  I 


ii 


Hotcli*  ~  Tho  *  Dwltflit  IIouNO  ($  9  -  4.  ftO  n  day)  la  a  new  nnd  elegant  hotel  Ilk 

•  iHi'-vlowliiK  imi'k  luuif  tho  olty,  HiilUiblo  v\t\wv  for  toiniHtM  or  for  a  Niiiiinier 
luMiMo,  H|tnul«lliiK  HoiiHO,  lumi' tlio  Ntiitlon.il'i.riO:  LowIn  IIoiiho.  On  Court  Ht, 
Uxohttiiuo  llutui  {  Wiiy'M  llolol ;  CiilHirly  IIoum«i. 

UoritttaiJikM.  •— i)n  MiUn,  Court;  iiiul  t'luiiiunKo  Stii.  to  Port  DIoklneon  (S  M.) ; 
on  Wiiiiliiutttoa  Hud  Kldrodi^o  HtM.  to  Inobrlutti  AHyluiii ;  mid  on  WuMhington  Nt, 
,   ltiUlr«ii%«l«.  -The  Krlo,  to  N.  Y.  In  <il4  M.,  to  llutlUlo  In  208  M.;  the  Del.. 
Liiuk.  ft,  WoHtorn,  to  N.  Y.  In  'ilO  M.,  to  Oewntfo  la  11&  M. ;  the  Albany  and 
BuHquolinnnu,  to  AllNiny  In  Wi  M. 

UluKhaniton  wnh  niinicd  uftor  Wni.  Illnirhani  (of  I'hlla.),  who  owned  \nrao 
trnotM  of  land  tn  thin  roKlon.  It  wkm  H«)tt4od  luto,  nnd  hucuinu  a  tdty  in  1HU7.  Tiie 
hill  rounty  of  Umonut  wtw  th'Ht  vlHititd  by  wliito  nion  whun  (llnton'H  urniy  trnv- 
ersiHl  It  In  177U.  Thuy  ou«MUU|M«d  nmr  UlnKlDimtoii,  und  dtiHtroyod  nn  IndlHn 
vllliiK<*.  The  llrttt  uottlor  in  tho  co.  wuh  I'Apt.  hiutnard  (of  IMynioulh.  Muhm,),  who 
Ciuno  In  I7H7.  and  wum  hoou  ttdlowtul  by  otfior  Now-IOnulandtM'H,  wlio  ocuu|>i«Hi  tlio 
tntorvidoit  of  tho  Oliontuigo.  The  (dikif  vllhiKO  wua  ifnlon  (0  M.  from  Uinglinni- 
ton\  wlntro  a  liotol  wm  built  and  tho  AmeHmn  VoHaMUillon  nowspuiivr  was 
•t4U'ted  (1800);  but  Union  rotrogrudinl  uttor  Ulnghnni,  with  shrewd  strntcgy, 
fbundod  a  town  at  tho  conllucnco  of  tho  rlvvrH.  Tho  county  was  owned  by  tlie 
Tu»onix)ra  Indiana,  who  aold  it  to  N.  Y,  In  17B&,  nflcr  a  long  ttiuity  vonfoivnce  at 
l*\)rt  Ilorkinior.  Togolhor  with  a  great  portion  of  Contral  M.  Y.,  it  was  idaiined 
by  MaMHacdiusotu  in  virtuo  of  luu*  royal  clinrtor,  which  embraced  nil  the  territory 
botwoi^n  44*  and  48'  N.  iatiUido,  "  from  mva  to  Hen."  MaHH.  yioldvd  her  right  to 
thii)  vaMt  tnum-oontiiicnUd  bolt  nt  tho  Hartford  Oonvontion  of  1780,  receiving, 
among  other  things,  a  tract  of  2!)0,400  n<'.i'eiN  in  nnd  near  Hroonie  Co.  The  Com- 
nionwoaUh  oold  thiii  district  to  UO  men  of  lit^rkHhiro  in  1787  (lor  i||i7,&00),  and  Uit 
•iHtriglnos  woi'o  soon  crowded  otf  by  tliu  hanly  Entiturn  Immigrants. 

BiNuiiAMTON,  tlie  onpitiU  of  Broome  Co.,  h  pleasantly  situated  at  the 
contlueiice  of  the  Bu8(iuuhtun)a  aiul  Chenango  Ilivers,  and  is  surrounded 
by  high  wooded  hiili'.  It  has  about  1(5,000  inhulutants,  with  12  churches^ 
6  banks,  9  Masonic  societies,  and  3  daily  papers.  The  city  has  risen  to 
iinportanue  by  its  railroad  facilities,  four  great  lines  converging  here  and 
connecting  with  the  Chenango  dJanal.  Innnense  amounts  of  iron  and  coal 
are  handled,  and  large  manufacturing  interests  have  been  developed,  while 
tlie  country  trade  of  many  towns  is  centred  here.  The  city  is  on  both 
•ides  of  both  rivers,  and  there  ore  2  bridges  over  each.  Chenango  St^ 
runs  S.  from  tlio  station,  by  the  Baptist  and  Presbyterian  churches,  to 
Court  St.,  the  main  tlioroughfare.  The  Court  House  is  a  large  building, 
surmounted  by  a  dome,  and  fronted  by  a  classic  portico  supported  by 
Ionic  columns.  It  is  eligibly  situated  on  Court  St.,  amid  open  grounds, 
beyond  which  the  hills  ore  seen.  Court  St.  has  several  fine  commercial 
blocks,  tlie  best  of  which  is  the  lofty  granite  Bank  Building  (corner  of 
Chenango  St. ).  Passing  to  the  W.,  the  Chenango  Canal  and  River  are 
crossed,  and  the  new  and  ornate  High  School  is  seen  on  the  1.,  fronting 
tlie  Cong.  Church.  On  the  hill  beyond  is  the  brick  building  of  the  Place 
College  (MethoiUst;  for  ladies).  The  Chenango  Canal  was  commenced  in 
1833,  and  extends  97  M.  N.  to  the  Erie  Canal,  at  Utica.  Christ  Church 
is  an  irregular  and  picturesque  stone  building ;  and  St.  Patrick's  is  on 
Le  Roy  St. ,  and  is  comiected  with  the  Convent  of  St.  Joseph.  The  city 
water-works  are  on  the  Holly  system,  and  supply  22  M.  of  pipes.  6 
continuous  streams  of  water  can  be  thrown  125  ft.  liigh  at  the  same  time 


OWEOO. 


MauUSS.     227 


by  tho  hydrants,  and  without  engines.  On  Mt.  Protpeet  Is  %  favorite 
wutor-cnru  hotel,  situated  among  large  trees,  and  overlooking  the  city 
and  valley.  In  tho  vicinity  is  a  saline-chalybeate  spring,  whoije  waters 
resemble  those  of  Cheltenham,  England  (in  each  gallon,  53  grains  of  car- 
bonate of  iron,  03  of  carbonates  of  lime  and  magnesia,  and  11  of  chloride 
of  sodium).  In  the  N.  W.  suburb  is  the  Spring  Foreat  CemeUry,  where 
D.  B.  Dickinson,  the  senator  and  jurist,  is  buried,  under  a  monument 
erected  by  tho  N.  Y.  Bar  Association.  The  State  Inebriftte  Aeylnni  is 
situated  upon  a  far-viewing  hill  1-2  M.N.  E.of  the  city  (horse-cars),  and 
is  an  imposing  stone  building,  365  ft.  long,  in  the  Tudor  castellated  archi- 
tecture, with  many  towers,  and  400  acres  of  grounds.  It  is  designed 
for  the  medical  treatment  and  restraint  of  inebriates.  The  Susquehanna 
Valley  Hume  is  near  the  city,  and  guards  and  educates  indigent  children* 

Beyond  Binghamton  the  Erie  train  enters  a  fertile  farming  country, 
which  is  fringed  by  the  rich  Susquehanna  intervales.  Stations,  Hooper, 
Union,  Campville,  and  Owego  {Ahtoaga  House;  Park;  U.  S.;  Briggif)^ 
the  capital  of  Tioga  County.  Owego  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  N. 
bank  of  the  Susquehanna,  which  i»  here  crossed  by  a  bridge  1,200  ft. 
long.  It  has  0,715  inhabitants,  with  7  dmrches,  3  weekly  papers,  and  4 
banks.  Consi«lerable  manufacturing  is  done  here,  and  there  is  a  lucrative 
trade  with  the  farming  country  in  the  vicinity.  In  the  W.,  on  Ow^o 
Creek,  is  Glen  Mary^  an  estate  formerly  held  by  N.  P.  Willis,  and  where 
ho  wrote  the  charming  "  Letters  from  under  a  Bridge."  Evei'green  Cem- 
etery is  N.  of  the  village,  on  a  hill  200  ft.  high,  and  commands  attractive 
views  of  the  valley.  On  the  park  is  the  new  and  elegant  Court  House  of 
Tioga  County.  The  Cayuga  Div.  of  the  Del.,  Lack.  &  Western  R.  R. 
runs  from  Owego  N.  W.  to  Ithaca  in  35  M.  (see  page  204);  and  the  S. 
Central  R.  R.  crosses  the  Erie  at  this  point. 

The  Susquehanna  is  closely  followed  by  the  stations  of  Tioga  Centre, 
Smithboro',  and  Barton,  to  Waverly  {Courtney  Houee)^  a  prosperous  village 
on  Cayuta  Creek,  with  2,239  inhabitants,  5  churches,  3  newspapers,  and 
2  banks.  S.  of  Waverly,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Chemung  and  Susque- 
hanna Rivers,  is  Tioga  Pointy  where  the  hostile  army  gathered  before  the 
Massacre  of  Wyoming.  At  a  later  day.  Gen.  Sullivan's  American  army 
encamped  here  before  the  battle  near  Elmira.  The  Penn.  k  N.  Y.  Cand 
&  R.  R.  Co.'s  R.  R.  intersects  the  Erie  at  this  point;  and  the  Ithaca  and 
Athens  R.  R.  runs  N.  to  Ithaca.  The  train  now  passes  down  to  the  Penn. 
border,  then  turns  N.  W.,  and  reaches  . 

Elmira. 

Hotela.— •Rathbun  House.  $3  a  day,  corner  of  Water  and  Baldwin  Sts.; 
Frasier  House,  at  the  station ;  Pattinson  House.  &eading-Ro<m,  Y.  M.  C.  A. 
(6,000  volumes),  comer  of  Lake  and  CarroU  Sts.  Horse-Cars  on  Water  St,  and  to 
the  College  and  Eldridge  Park.  Railroads.  —  The  N.  Central  R  R  here  intersects 
tlie  Erie,  at  '2&0  M.  tram  Baltimore,  and  the  Lehigh  Valley  and  Utica,  Ithaca  and 
Elmira  Railroads  terminate  here. 


I  I 


228    itouu  SS, 


ELMIBA. 


Elmira,  the  capital  of  Ghemung  County,  is  sitnated  in  a  pleasant  valley 
near  the  Chemung  River,  and  is  the  chief  city  of  the  Southern  Tier,  It 
has  over  20,000  inhabitants,  with  12  churches,  2  daily  and  3  weekly 
papers,  and  6  hanks.  Much  business  is  done  in  the  transshipment  of 
coal  and  grain  on  the  railroads  and  canals  which  intersect  here,  and  there 
is  a  large  and  lucrative  country-trade.  There  are  many  busy  manufac- 
tories, including  the  immense  car-shops  of  the  Erie  Railway;  and  here  is 
the  seat  of  the  new  State  Reformatory  and  the  Southern  Tier  Orplians' 
Home.  Water  St.  is  the  main  thoroughfare,  and  is  lined  with  business 
houses.  The  Court  House  is  a  handsome  building,  situated  in  pleasant 
groimds.  The  Elmira  Female  College  occupies  a  spacious  and  imposing 
brick  building  on  an  eminence  in  the  N.  suburb,  and  is  richly  endowed 
and  of  good  repute.  It  has  12  instructors  and  130-150  students,  and  is 
located  amid  umbrageous  grounds.  The  Eldridge  Park  (100  acres)  is  a 
short  distance  N.  of  the  city,  and  is  prettily  laid  out  with  groves  and 
lakeltits,  and  adorned  with  many  statues,  —  Eve  and  the  Serpent,  Con- 
templation, Andromeda,  Sabrina,  Flora,  the  Maid  of  the  Mist,  etc.  The 
Elmira  Water  Cure  is  on  a  hill  E.  of  the  city,  overlooking  Elmira  and 
the  Chemung  Valley  (for  boarders,  $7-13  a  week;  for  invalids,  including 
medical  attention,  $  10  - 15  a  week). 

The  site  of  Elmira  was  anciently  occupied  by  the  Indian  town  of  Contwawah, 
which  was  surrduaded  by  proliflc  orchards  and  grain-fields.  Near  this  place 
the  Six  Nations  concentrated  their  forces  in  1779  and  built  fortifications  to  check 
the  advance  of  Sullivan's  anny.  Aug.  29,  1779,  Gen.  Hand  appeared  before 
Conewawah  with  the  American  vanguard  and  was  at  once  attacked  by  the  In- 
dians. Brant  (the  celebrated  Mohawk  chieftain)  and  Sir  John  Johnson  command- 
ed the  hostile  forces.  Poor's  Continental  brigade  arrived  on  the  field  while  Hand 
was  in  line  before  the  works,  and  was  ordered  to  storm  the  heights  on  the  r.  of 
the  advance.  After  a  stubborn  jmbat  of  2  hours'  duration,  during  which  the 
American  artillery  kept  up  a  continuous  cannonade.  Poor  succeeded  in  reaching 
the  summit  of  the  ridge  and  flanking  the  hostile  lines.  ,The  Indians  then  raised 
the  retreating  cry  of  Oonah !  Oonah  I  and  gave  way  in  every  direction,  leaving  the 
Continentals  in  possession  of  the  field  and  town.  Sullivan's  devastating  march 
up  the  Seneca  coimtry  followed  this  victory  (see  page  212).  This  vicinity  began 
to  be  colonized  in  1787  -  90,  and  its  growth  has  since  been  rapid.  Elmira  was  a 
busy  recruiting-rendezvous  during  tlie  Secession  War,  and  37  regiments  were 
organized  here.  A  part  of  the  immense  barracks  was  fitted  up  for  a  military 
prison,  and  here  were  confined  11,916  Rebels,  of  whom  2,950  died  (invalids  from 
the  unhealthy  prison  at  Point  Lookout.  Md.,  or  men  worn  down  by  hardship  in 
the  field).  Many  of  them  are  buried  in  Woodlawn  Cemetery  with  headstones 
provided  by  the  U.  S.  Govt.  2^  M.  W.  of  Elmira  are  the  ruins  of  a  prehistoric 
fortress,  on  a  bold  promontory  over  the  Chemung  River. 

On  leaving  Elmira  the  Eldridge  Park  is  passed  on  the  r.  and  the  train 
runs  N.  into  Horsebeids  town,  where  the  N.  Central  R.  R.  diverges  to 
the  r.  at  Junction  station.  Corning  (Dickinson  Hoxise,  $3  a  day)  is  a 
busy  factory  village  of  6,811  inhabitants,  with  7  churches,  3  newspapers, 
3  banks,  and  2  academies.  On  the  hill  over  the  business  strr  ts  and  rail- 
road is  seen  the  massive  little  building  of  the  State  Arsenal,  with  its  tow- 
ers and  walls  resembling  a  small  castle.    The  village  was  formed  in  1796, 


AVON  SPRINGS. 


JtmUe  S3.      229 


and  bore  the  name  of  Painted  Post  until  1852,  when  it  was  named  in 
honor  of  Erastus  Coming.      

A  railroad  rans  S.  Arom  Coming  into  the  lai^  and  sparsely  populated  Penn. 
county  of  Tioga,  following  the  valley  of  the  Tioga  River.  Fares,  to  Blossburg, 
$1.35  ;  to  Fall  Brook.  :$  1.60  ;  to  Wellsboro'.  91.30.  The  line  itassea  through  a 
rugged  counti^  to  Blossburs  (Eagle  Hotel),  a  flouristiing  town  with  over  4,000 
inliabitants.  In  this  vicinity  several  sliort  coal-roads  diverge  to  tlie  mines  :  and 
the  prolific  coul-beds  of  tlie  Fall  Broolc  Co.  are  among  tlie  ravines  4-7  M.  E.  A 
br cincli  R.  R.  runs  H.  W.  24  M.  from  Lawrenceville  (15  M.  S.  of  Corning)  to  Wells- 
boro' hVelUhoro'  Hotel),  tlie  county-seat,  and  Antrim ;  and  another  branch  runs 
7  M.  W.  from  Lawrenceville  to  the  hamlets  of  Nelson  and  Elliland.  Stages  run 
from  Welislxiro'  to  Mansfield,  Stony  Fork,  and  Coudereport  (40  M.  :  tri-weekly). 
Tlie  Blossburg  Mineral  Springs  are  much  visited,  and  contain  an  excess  of  free 
Bulplmric  acid,  with  siilphates  of  iron,  alumina,  and  magnesia.  733,035  tous  of 
semi-bituminous  coal  were  mined  in  the  Blossburg  district  in  1870,  and  were  sent 
to  market  by  way  of  Corning. 

The  Rochester  Division. 

Stattons.  — Coming,  290  M.  fh)m  N.  T. ;  Painted  Post,  292  ;  Cooper's,  295 ; 
Curtis,  298  ;  Savona,  304  ;  Bath,  310  :  Kanona.  314  ;  Avoca,  318 ;  Wallace's,  821 ; 
Lilierty,  326 ;  Blood's,  .S30 ;  Waylaiid,  336 ;  Springwater,  340 ;  Conesus,  347  ;  S. 
Livonia,  351 ;  Livonia,  355;  Hamilton's,  357  ;  Avon,  366;  Rush,  371 :  Scottsville, 
373 :  Henrietta,  376 ;  Red  Creek,  380  ;  Rochestei,  385.  Fare  from  N.  Y.  to  Avon 
or  Rochester,  $7.70. 

The  train  runs  N.  "W.  from  Coming  by  Painted  Post  and  several  rural 
stations  in  the  valley  of  the  Conhocton  River.  Bath  {Park  Hotel)  is  a 
populous  village  situated  in  a  rich  famiing  district  (prolific  in  wines)  and 
has  6  churches,  2  newspapers,  the  Haverliug  School,  and  the  Davenport 
Female  Orphans'  Asylum.  It  is  a  semi-capital  of  Steuben  County. 
Trains  run  N.  E.  to  J^amT^onc^ivor^,  on  Keuka  Lake  (N.  Central  R.R.). 
The  train  ascends  the  Conhocton  Valley  by  Blood's  (whence  daily  stages 
ran  to  Naples,  on  Cauandaigua  Lake),  and  passes  on  to  Conesus,  a  short 
distance  W.  of  the  pretty  highland  Lakes  Conesus,  Hemlock,  Canadice, 
and  Honeoye.  Hamilton's  station  is  near  the  foot  of  Conesus  Lake, 
which  is  8  M.  long;  and  6-7  M.  N.  E.  is  Lima,  the  seat  of  the  Genesee 
Wesleyan  Seminary  and  formerly  of  the  Genesee  College.  Station,  Avon 
{Avon  Springs  Uotel)^  a  pleasant  village  in  the  Genesee  Valley  and  near 
the  celebrated  Avon  Springs  {Congress  Hall ;  *  Knickerbocker  Hail ; 
V.  8.  Hotel,  in  the  village;  and  several  boarding-houses).  There  are  ^ 
springs,  and  the  saline-sulphurous  waters  are  taken  internally  and  also  in 
the  form  of  bjiths.  Tlie  Lower  Spring  has  168  grains  of  solid  contents  in 
eacif  gallon ;  and  the  Upper  Spring  has  204  grains.  They  are  1  M.  S.  W. 
of  Avon,  and  the  Lower  Spring  discharges  54  .gallons  a  minute.  The 
waters  are  mildly  cathartic,  and  are  beneficial  in  cases  of  chronic  and 
cutaneous  diseases.    Stages  ran  from  Avon  to  York  and  Lima. 

The  Attica  Branch  R.  R.  rims  W.  ttom  Avon  by  Le  Roy  and  Batavia  to  Attica  in 
87  M.  (and  also  to  Buffalo)  ;  and  the  DansviUe  and  Mt.  Morris  Branch  runs  S. 
from  Avon  up  the  Genesee  Valley  to  Dansville,  passing  Geneseo,  the  capital  of 
Livingston  County,  the  seat  of  a  State  Normal  School  and  the  Qeueseo  Academy 


230     RouU  S3. 


HORNELLSVILLB. 


111! 


fon  Temple  Hill,  and  ftpproaohed  by  an  avenue  lined  with  noble  treei>  Here  la 
the  monument  tu  Uen.  J.  8.  WndHworth,  a  wuulthy  geutleman  of  Ueneaeo  who 
itudlod  Ihw  mider  Uiuiiel  Welmtor ;  entorud  tht«  U.  H.  nrtiiv  during  the  Heceatiion 
Wnr ;  and  wua  murtiilly  woundud  wliile  (ioinmnndlnK  the  FirMt  Corpit  of  the  Army 
of  the  I'otomaR,  at  tlio  battle  of  the  WildnriiuHH.  Boynnd  the  flourishing  village 
of  Mount  Morrta  tlie  train  runs  S.  10.  to  Danavlltof  a  place  of  a.OOO  inhanitantti, 
with  8  ohurttliee,  2  Imnka,  a  Heininary,  nn<l  nuinnrous  factorlen.  On  a  hiUaide 
over  tltf<  viilaue  is  tlio  "  Our  Homo  Uygienio  Inatitute,"  overIoo](ing  the  rich 
CauAHeraga  Vnlley.  2^  M.  8.  is  tlio  Stony  Brook  Olen,  famed  for  ita  beautiful 
scenery.  Tlie  JaolcBon,  Uurd,  and  WooduiilT  Falls  are  all  within  1  M.  of  the  en< 
trance  to  tho  glen. 

Beyond  Avon  the  Rocheater  train  doacenda  tho  Geneaee  Valley,  near  the  river, 
omases  the  T.,  0.,  St  C.  Div.  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  ;  and  runa  N.  E.  through 
Henrietta  and  the  rich  nurseries  of  Brighton  to  the  city  of  Bochettor  (lee 
page  171).  

The  train  on  the  main  line  of  the  Erie  Railway  runs  parallel  with  th« 
Rochester  Div.  to  Painted  Post,  where  the  latter  road  diverges  to  the  r. 
This  station  and  village  is  namef^  after  an  inscribed  monument  which  was 
erected  in  1770  by  the  Indians  over  the  grave  of  their  chief,  Capt.  Mon- 
tour. The  track  next  ascends  the  Tioga  and  Canisteo  Valleys  to  Addivm, 
an  active  factory  village  at  the  confl  lence  of  the  Canisteo  and  Tuscarora 
Rivers.  The  valley  now  begins  to  contract,  and  the  bluffs  are  steeper 
and  more  rocky.  Stations,  Ratliboneville,  Cameron  Mills,  Cameron  (in 
the  deep  valley  of  the  Canisteo),  Adrian,  and  Canisteo.  The  valley  grows 
wider,  and  the  train  stops  at  Hornellsville  {Sherman  House  ;  American  ; 
restaurant  at  the  station),  a  place  of  4,552  inhabitants,  with  5  churches, 
and  an  active  Library  Association.  The  Susquehanna,  Western,  and 
Buffalo  Divisions  of  the  Erie  Railway  converge  here,  and  many  side-tracks, 
engine-hou&es,  and  repair-shops  are  located  near  the  station.  The  line 
passes  from  Hornellsville  up  the  Canacadea  Valley  to  Almond,  a  pros- 
perous factory  village,  situated  on  ample  water-power.  The  scenery  of 
the  Western  Division  is  of  but  little  comparative,  interest,  and  the  setiis- 
ments  are  new  and  small.  Station,  Alfred,  2  M.  N.  E.  of  the  Al/rei 
University,  a  school  of  the  Seventh-Day  Baptists,  with  academic  and 
collegiate  departments^  spacious  buildings,  18  professors  and  tutors,  and 
863  students  (184  ladies).  At  Tip  Top  Summit  the  R.  R.  attains  its 
greatest  elevavion,  1,760  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  thence  it  descends  toward 
the  Genesee  Valley  on  a  grade  of  40  ft.  to  the  M.  Dike  Creek  is  followed 
by  Andover  to  Genesee  (American  House),  a  small  factory  village.  To 
the  S.  are  the  mountainous  towns  of  Alma  and  Willing,  devoted  to  lum- 
bering. The  train  now  turns  up  the  Genesee  Valley  (to  the  N.  W. ),  and 
follows  the  rivdr.  Stations,  Scio  (amid  steep  hills),  Belmont,  and  Belvi- 
dere.  This  village  is  the  railroad  outlet  for  several  of  the  Genesee  towns. 
2  M.  N.  is  Angelica  {St.  Charles  Hotel),  a  semi-capital  of  Allegany 
County,  with  5  churches,  an  academy,  and  a  newspaper.  The  village  was 
named  after  Gen.  Philip  Schuyler's  daughter.  Stations,  Friendship,  and 
Cuba  Summit,  where  the  train  crosses  the  Allegany  water-shed,  1,677  ft. 


DUNKIRK. 


JtwteSS.     231 


above  the  sea.  The  rain  falling  on  the  E.  slope  of  thU  ridge  flowi  Into 
tho  Genesee  River,  Lake  Ontario,  and  the  St.  Lawrence;  tliat  falling  on 
the  W.  reaches  the  Oulf  of  Mexico  by  tl  Vllegany,  Ohio,  and  Missis- 
sippi Rivers.  Tlie  descending  grods  leads  to  Cuba,  a  flourishing  village 
on  the  Genesee  Canal,  and  thence  down  the  valley  of  Oil  Creek  (not  the 
Oil  Creek  of  petroleum  fame)  to  Hinsdale  and  Olean  {Forbes  House),  an 
important  shipping  station,  where  the  present  route  is  crossed  by  the 
Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  and  Phila.  R.  R.  ^  M.  S.  of  Allegany  station  and  vil- 
lage  is  a  Franciscan  Convent  and  College,  with  14  monks  and  tertians, 
and  120  pupils.  N.  of.  the  college  is  St.  Elizabeth's  Academy,  with  60 
pupils,  under  the  Franciscan  Nuns.  From  Carrolton  the  Buffalo,  Brad- 
ford,  and  ^Pittsburgh  R.  R.  runs  S.  into  the  decadent  Penn.  county  of 
McKean,  to  Bradford  (11  M. )  and  Gilesville  (26  M. ;  fare,  SOc.). 

The  route  now  lies  through  the  great  Allegany  Reservation  of  the  Seneca 
Indians.  It  inuluden  42  square  M.  in  n  belt  of  ricii  land  about  2  M.  wide  on  both 
sidoii  of  the  Allegany,  and  its  non-development  by  civilized  labor  has  retarded 
the  growth  of  tlie  county.  There  were  800  - 1,000  Indians  here  at  the  last  census. 
In  1848  tho  denccas  abrogated  the  chieftaincy  and  formed  a  government  consist* 
ing  of  3  peacomaliers  and  a  council  of  18  members.  The  nation  kept  an  ambassa- 
dor at  Washington,  and  no  treaty  is  valid  unless  ratified  by  the  votes  of  }  of  the 
niea  and'}  of  the  mothers. 

Stations,  Oreat  Valley  and  Salamanca,  a  dreary  hamlet  built  on  lands 
leased  from  the  Indians,  and  devoted  to  lumbering  and  tanneries.  6-6 
M.  N.  E.  is  the  remarkable  rock  formation  called  Rock  City,  occnpjring 
100  acres  on  the  summit  of  a  hill  400  ft.  al)ove  the  valley.  Immense  rec^ 
tangular  blocks  of  pure  white  conglomerate  rock  (of  white  pebbles  con* 
glutinated)  crop  out  along  the  plateau,  presenting  the  appearance  of  a 
marble  city  with  sharp-angled  squares  and  straight  lanes.  The  Atlantic 
&  Great  Western  Railway  runs  W.  from  Salamanca  (see  Route  34),  and 
beyond  it  the  Erie  train  passes  Little  Valley,  the  capital  of  Cattaraugus 
County;  Cattaraugus,  in  a  secluded  valley;  and  Dayton,  1,595  ft.  above 
the  sea.  Long  descending  grades  are  now  traversed,  leading  through 
almost  unbroken  forests.  3  M.  beyond  Perrysburgh,  Lake  Erie  is  seen 
in  the  distance.  Stations,  Smith's  Mills,  Forestville,  Sheridan  Centre, 
and  Dunkirk,  the  terminus  of  the  road,  460  M.  from  N.  Y.  City.  Junc- 
tion is  here  formed  with  the  Lake  Shore  and  Michigan  Southern  R.  R* 
Dunkirk  {Erie  Hotel)  is  a  town  of  5,231  inhabitants,  with  12  churches,  2 
banks,  and  3  weekly  papers.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  fronts  on  an 
artificial  harbor  which  is  sheltered  by  piers  and  a  breakwater.  It  has 
lost  its  importance  as  a  lake-port  since  the  withdrawal  of  the  lines  of 
steamers  to  other  points,  and  the  large  wharves  and  warehouses  are  not 
fully  used.  Manufactures  have  replaced  commerce,  and  the  R.  R.  repair- 
shops  and  locomotive-works  employ  many  men.  Here  is  located  St. 
Mary's  Retreat,  a  convent  of  the  austere  Order  of  the  Passionists,  and 
there  is  a  State  Normal  School  at  Fredonia  (3  M.  S.;  horse-cars  orR.  R.), 


232     MauUSS. 


PORTAGE  FAIXa 


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a  prosperous  village,  whioh  is  illuminated  with  gas  drawn  from  a  remark- 
able spring  near  by.  

The  Buffalo  Division, 

Sta€loMU  —  Homellsville,  881  M.  from  Ne^  Tork ;  Bami,  '889 ;  Csnaseraga, 
843  ;  Swain's,  848 ;  Nunda,  865 ;  Hunt's.  857  :  Portage,  861 ;  Castile,  86fi ;  Qaiues- 
ville.  867  ;  Warsaw,  874  ;  Dale,  880 ;  Linden,  884 ;  Attica,  891 ;  Liancaster,  412 ; 
BufRtlo,  422 ;  Suspension  Bridge,  448. 

The  train  runs  N.  W.  from  Homellsville  by  Canaseraga  and  the  Chau- 
tauque  Valley  to  Jiunda,  which  is  3  M.  S.  of  the  large  village  of  the 
same  name.  Portage  {Cascade  Houses  $8  a  day;  Ingham  House ,  at 
Portageville)  is  a  station  at  the  famous  *  Portage  Bridge,  which  is  818 
ft.  long  and  234  ft.  high-  It  is  strongly  built  of  iron,  replacing  a  wooden 
bridge  burnt  in  1875.  The  scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  of  renowned 
attractiveness,  and  is  formed  by  the  descent  of  the  Qenesee  River  from 
the  plateau  to  a  deep  and  cliff-bound  gorge.  "If  the  Portage  Falls 
were  in  Yosemite  Valley  or  among  the  Alps,  instead  of  12  hours  from 
.the  Metropolis,  they  would  be  visited  and  painted  and  photographed 
and  written  of  a  great  deal  more."  (A.  D.  Bichardson.)  The  Ms  are 
reached  by  crossing  the  Portage  Bridge  on  a  plank  walk  through  the 
trestles  far  below  the  R.  R.  track,  and  diverging  to  the  r.  by  a  well-  * 
defined  foot-path  on  the  W.  bank.  On  the  opposite  shore  is  seen  the 
Genesee  Canal,  in  a  high  gallery  on  the  side  of  the  bluffs,  and  crossing 
the  river  just  above  by  a  long  aqueduct.  The  Upper,  or  *  Horse-Shoe, 
Falls  are  just  below  the  bridge,  and  are  68  ft.  high,  preceded  by  a  line  of 
step-like  rapids.  ^  M.  below  i(  the  *  Middle  Fall,  where  the  river 
plunges  over  a  precipice  110  ft.  high  into  a  deep  black  basin  surrounded 
by  tall  cliffs.  Under  the  W.  cliff  and  near  the  bottom  of  the  Fall  is  the 
sombre  and  resounding  cavern  called  the  DeviTs  Oven  (often  visited 
during  low  water,  and  large  enough  to  shelter  100  persons).  Near  this 
point  is  the  pretty  villa  called  Glen  /m,from  whose  lawn  is  gained  a  fine 
view  of  the  Upper  and  Middle  Falls  and  the  Portage  Bridge.  The  river 
now  flows  through  a  great  cafion  whose  sides  are  formed  of  sheer  cliffs 
250  -  380  ft.  high,  down  which,  on  the  E.  side,  fall  occasional  white  bands 
of  water  —  miniature  Staubbachs  —  from  the  canal  which  traverses  the 
escarpment  beyond.  At  2  M.  below  the  Portage  Bridge  the  rapid  river 
becomes  tumultuous  and  roars  down  through  a  chasm  of  astonishing 
depth  and  narrowness.  The  *  Lower  Falls  are  a  series  of  high  rapids 
with  150  ft.  of  descent  in  ^  M.,  over  step-like  strata  alternating  with  per- 
pendicular cascades  and  dark,  deep  pools.  On  one  reach  the  river  is 
compressed  into  a  channel  15  ft.  wide,  and,  after  leaping  down  20  ft.  into 
a  narrow  crevice,  hurls  itself  against  the  lofty  and  isolated  roCk-pinnacle 
called  Sugar  Loaf,  which  is  100  ft.  high  and  15  ft.  in  diameter.  At  this 
point  the  river  whirls  off  at  right  angles,  and  speeds  away  down  the  gorge. 


K>m  a  remark- 


10 ;  CanaseragA, 
le,  865 ;  Qaiues-' 
Laucaater.  412; 

and  the  Chau- 
village  of  the 
am  House,  at 
,  which  is  818 
icing  a  wooden 
of  renowned 
ioe  River  from 
Portage  Falls 
12  hours  from 
photographed 
I    The  fialls  are 
k  through  the 
)  r.  by  a  well-  * 
3re  is  seen  the 
's,  and  crossing 
•  •  Horse-Shoe, 
ed  by  a  line  of 
here  the  river 
tin  surrounded 
;he  Fall  is  the 
(often  visited 
iS).    Near  this 
|s  gained  a  fine 
;e.    The  river 
if  sheer  cliffs 
il  white  bands 
traverses  the 
le  rapid  river 
astonishing 
high  rapids 
(ing  with  per- 
the  river  is 
20  ft.  into 
■oCk-pinnacle 
;er.    At  this 
the  gorge. 


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BUFFALO. 


JtmOe  S3.     233 


The  High  Banks  of  the  Genesee  extend  for  several  miles,  between  the 
towns  of  Mt.  Morris  and  Castile,  with  an  altitude  of  300-350  ft.  3.  M. 
from  the  Lower  Falls  is  Wolf  Creek,  which  descends  from  the  Silver  Lake 
plateau  through  a  resounding  glen  flanked  by  tall  cliffs,  and  enshrining 
many  graceful  cascades. 

As  the  train  crosses  the  Portage  Bridge,  fine  views  are  afforded  (on  the  r.) 
of  the  High  Banks  and  the  profoimd  gorges  of  the  Genesee.  Beyond 
Castile  the  line  reaches  Gainesville  3  M.  N.  E.  of  a  hamlet  which  con> 
tains  a  large  female  seminary.  The  Stiver  Lake  Railway  (2  trains  daily) 
runs  N.  K  7  M.  from  Gainesville  along  the  shores  of  the  lake  to  Perry,  a 
small  village  on  its  outlet.  Silver  Lake  is  3  M.  long,  and  has  a  small 
summer  hotel  on  its  shore.  Its  waters  deposit  lime  in  the  form  of  marl, 
and  are  said  to  be  haunted  by  a  monster  serpent,  concerning  which  there 
was  much  excitement  in  1856.  Station,  "WarBaw  (2  large  country  hotels; 
hotel  at  the  station),  the  capital  of  Wyoming  County,  v/ith  1,631  in- 
habitants, 5  churches,  2  banks,  and  2  newspapers.  This  is  the  favorite 
summer  home  of  the  visitors  to  the  beautiful  0-at-ka  Valley,  or  Valley 
of  Wyoming  (not  the  historic  Wyoming).  The  village  is  very  pretty, 
and  is  approached  from  the  station  by  the  Gulf  Road,  which  leads  down 
a  deep  ravine  into  the  Warsaw  glen.  The  favorite  •drives  are  to  Silver 
Lake,  7  M.  S.  E. ;  to  the  High  Banks  of  the  Genesee  anu  the  Wolf  Creek 
glen ;  and  down  the  rich  Oatka  Valley  to  Wyoming,  8-10  M.  Daily 
stages  run  S.  W.  by  Wethersfield  Springs  to  Arcade  (25  M. ). 

"  The  vicinity  of  Warsaw— along  the  banks  of  the  Oatka — is  a  rich  pastoral 
country,  Huch  as  artists  love  and  strive  tc  reproduce  in  their  pictures.  Here 
groups  of  elms  reach  their  graceful  branches  down  to  the  water  ;  there  the  water 

reflects  the  soft  gray  spray  of  willows Like  almost  the  whole  of  Northern 

N.  Y.,  the  region  is  full  of  waterfalls,  the  most  beautiful,  perhaps,  being  the 
Upper  Falls  alx>vethe  railroad  at  Warsaw,  which  only  need  a  different  aud  grander 
texture  of  rock  to  equal  the  waterfalls  of  Norway,  or  the  Falls  of  Inversnaid,  in 
Scotland." 

Warsaw  and  the  Oatka  Valley  are  seen  to  the  r.  from  the  train  as  it 
passes  the  station  and  winds  along  the  highlands  to  Dale,  Linden,  and 
Attioa  {Exchange  Hotel),  which  is  connected  with  Batavia  (11  M.  N.  E.) 
both  by  the  Erie  and  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  The  line  now  runs  W. 
across  Erie  (IJounty,  passing  several  rural  hamlets,  and  enters  the  city  of 

Buffido. 

Hotels*  —*Tifft  House,  $4  a  day.  Main  St.,  near  Mohawk ;  *  Mansion  House, 
Main  St.,  opposite  the  Terrace;  Bonney's  Hotel,  Washington  St.;  Continental 
Hotel,  $3,  at  the  B.  R.  station ;  United  States  ;  aud  several  smaller  houses,  near 
the  station,  on  Exchange  St. 

BeadlnK-  Rooms. — The  Young  Men's  Association,  comer  of  Main  and  Eagle 
Sts.;  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  319  Main  St.;  the  CathoUc  Institute,  412  Main  St. 

Amusements* — At  the  Opera  House,  on  Main,  near  Clinton  St.;  Academy 
of  Music,  247  Main  St.;  St.  James  Hall,  comer  of  Eagle  and  Washington  Sts. 

Horse«Cars*  —  Every  6  min.  on  Main  and  Niagara  Sts.,  running  fTom  the 
bai'bor  out  Main  St.  to  Cold  Spring  Abbey  and  the  Park ;  also  across  Niagara 


234    Eouu  ss. 


BUFFALO. 


Stpare  and  on  Niagara  St.,  by  Fort  Porter,  to  Black  Bock :  and  out  Genesee  St 
Cars  run  out  Exchange  St.  through  the  lower  uart  of  the  city.  Stages  run  daily 
to  Clarence,  Willianisviile,  E.  Hamburgh,  Colden,  Springville,  Glenwood,  Boston 
Centre,  and  White's  Corners. 

Railroads.  —  The  Erie  (Route  83),  to  New  York  in  442  M. ;  the  N.  Y.  Central 
(Route  2o),  \o  New  York  in  440  M.;  the  Buffalo,  N.  Y.,  and  Phila.,  to  Emporium 
in  121  M.  (and  Philadelphia  in  419  M.) ;  the  Lake  Shore  and  Michigan  Southern, 
to  Chicago  in  539  M.;  the  Canada  Southern,  to  Upper  Canada  and  the  West ;  the 
Grand  Trunk,  to  Detroit  in  258  M.  Niagara  Falls  is  reached  by  the  Erie  (23 
M.),  the  N.  Y.  Central  (22  M.),  or  the  Canada  Southern  (26  TA.).  Steamers  run 
to  the  principal  ports  on  Lake  Erie. 

Buffalo,  the  capital  of  Erie  County,  is  situated  at  the  E.  end  of  Lake 
Erie,  at  the  efflux  of  the  Niagara  River.  It  has  the  best  harbor  ou  the 
lake,  and  its  water-front  is  nearly  5  M.  long.  The  site  of  the  city  is  on 
ground  which  rises  slowly  from  the  shore,  with  bold  bluffs  fronting  the 
Niagara  River;  and  from  the  upper  portion  are  gained  pleasant  views  of 
the  lake  and  the  Canadian  shore.  There  are  5  public  squares,  and  the 
streets  are  broad  and  well  arranged.  The  principal  thoroughfares  are 
Main,  Niagara,  and  Delaware  Sts.,  each  of  which  is  over  3  M.  long;  and 
the  Terrace  is  an  open  square  in  the  busiest  quarter,  and  near  the  harbor. 
There  are  10  banks,  14  Masonic  societies,  9  daily  papers  (3r  of  whi(di  are 
German),  and  76  churclies  (of  which  16  are  German,  4  African,  and  2 
French).  The  great  basins,  ship-canals,  and  elevators  along  the  harbor 
and  Buffalo  Creek  are  worthy  of  a  visit;  and  the  number  and  activity  of 
the  steam-tugs  plying  in  these  narrow  waters  will  attract  attention. 
Lower  Main  St.  is  devoted  to  heavy  wholesale  trade;  and  from  the  point 
where  Exchange  St.  enters  from  the  spacious  R.  R.  station,  the  broad 
square  called  the  Terrace  stretches  off  toward  the  canal.  Passing  up 
Main  St.,  by  fine  commercial  biiildiugs,  Niagara  St.  is  reached,  and  on 
the  1.  are  seen  the  First  Pres.  Church  and  the  Episcopal  Cathedral  of  St, 
PatUf  a  stately  old  structure,  in  which  the  body  of  ex-Pi-esident  Fillmore 
was  laid  in  state  in  April,  1874.  This  church  has  a  fine  chime  of  bells.  A 
short  distance  beyond  is  *St.  Joseph's  Cathedral  (Catholic),  an  im- 
posing building  of  gray  stone,  with  a  lofty  nave  and  a  chancel-window  of 
Munich  stained  glass,  showing  the  Nativity,  Crucifixion,  and  Ascension 
of  Christ.  Church  St  conducts  thence  to  the  lake-shore,  where  may  be 
seen  the  breakwaters  which  shield  the  Erie  Basin,  with  the  tall  lighthouse, 
sustaining  a  first-class  Fresnel  light.  The  Post-Office  is  a  fine  stone  build- 
ing on  the  comer  of  Washington  and  Seneca  Streets.  The  Young  MerCa 
Association  has  a  library  of  27,000  volumes,  with  large  cabinets  o!  nat- 
ural history,  and  the  collections  of  the  Historical  and  Fine  Arts  Societies; 
the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  has  10,000  volumes;  and  the  Grosvenor  Library  is  another 
large  and  valuable  collection.  Niagara  St.  diverges  to  the  1.  abbve  St. 
Paul's,  crossing  the  aristocratic  Niagara  Sqr.'^rc,  and  passing  nr.any  fine 
residences.  It  runs  out  beyond  Fort  Porter  {^  small  work  designed  for 
64  guns  and  300  men),  by  the  side  of  the  Niagara  Ritrer,  and  near  the 


BUFFALO. 


Jt&uU  33,      235 


out  Genesee  St. 
Stages  run  daily 
lenwood,  Boston 

tie  N.  Y.  Central 
i.,  to  Emporium 
higan  Southern, 
a  the  West ;  the 
by  the  Erie  (23 
).    Steamers  run 

S.  end  of  Lake 
harbor  ou  the 

the  city  is  on 
Fs  fronting  the 
asant  views  of 
[uares,  and  the 
x)ughfares  are 
I  M.  long;  and 
sar  the  harbor. 
'r  of  whidi  are 
African,  and  2 
ng  the  harbor 
nd  activity  of 
act  attention, 
'om  the  point 
on,  the  broad 
Passing  up 

iched,  and  on 
\hedral  of  St. 

lent  Fillmore 
le  of  bells.  A 
lolic),  an  im- 
lel-window  of 

id  Ascension 

here  may  be 

1  lighthouse, 
stone  build- 
oung  MerCs 

finets  0.'  nat- 
18  Societies; 

y  is  another 

1.  ab6ve  St. 

|g  n^any  fine 
iesigned  for 
id  near  the 


Church  Chai  ity  buildings  and  the  Reservoir,  to  BUtck  Rock,  a  suburb  of 
Buffalo  opposite  the  Canadian  town  of  Fort  Erie.    The  Niagara  River  is 
here  crossed  by  the  *  International  Bridge,  which  was  built  in  1869-73 
at  a  cost  of  $1,500,000,  and  has  12  spans,  with  450  ft.  over  Bhck  Rock 
Harbor,  1,300  over  Squaw  Island,  and  1,800  over  the  river.    It  is  to  be 
used  by  the  N.  Y.  Central,  the  Erie,  and  the  3  Canadian  railroads.    Re- 
turning to  Main  St.,  near  the  old  city  buildings  on  Franklin  Square  are 
seen  Grace  and  St.  Peter's  Churches ;  and  Batavia  St.  runs  out  thence  to 
the  massive  feudal  building  of  the  State  Arsenal,  with  its  heavy  stone 
towers.    Just  beyond  is  5<.  Mary's  Church,  near  the  spacious  Redemp- 
torist  Convent  of  St.  Mary.    Above  Franklin  Square,  Genesee  St.  is  seen 
diverging  to  the  r.,  running  far  out  into  the  country.  Trinity  and  the 
Central  and  N.  Pres.  Churches  are  now  passed  on  Main  St.;  and  to  the 
r.  near  the  Washington  Market,  is  the  red  sandstone  Romanesque  build- 
ing of  St.  MichaeVa  Church,  fronted  by  a  statue  of  St.  Michael  conquering 
the  Dragon,  and  containing  several  frescos  in  chiaroscuro  in  the  spaciouti 
nave.    Above  the  church  is  Canisius  College,  a  Jesuit  institution.    The 
Buffalo  Female  Academy  accommodates  500  students,  and  lies  to  the  W. 
of  Main  St.,  on  Delaware  Ave.,  and  overlooking  Lake  Erie.    Main  St. 
now  passes  the  Buffalo  Medical  College  (8  professors;  94  students),  in  a 
broad  district  of  handsome  villas,  and  the  Church  of  St.  Louis.    A  short 
distance  to  the  r:,  on  Virginia  St.,  is  the  Martin  Luther  College;  and  to 
the  1.,  on  the  same  street,  is  the  Buffalo  Orphan  Asylum.    The  General 
Hospital  is  on  High  St.;  and  by  turning  from  Main  St.  to  the  I.,  on 
North  St.,  the  Westmhister  Churchy  the  fine  buildings  of  the  Normal 
School,  and  the  College  of  St.  Joseph  are  seen.    2-3  M.  from  the  City 
Hall,  Main  St.  passes  the  immense  Cold  Spring,  crosses  the  Scajaquada 
Creek,  and  intersects  the  Humboldt  Parkway  near  the  spacious  Providence 
Asylum  (of  the  Sisters  of  Charity).    By  diverging  to  the  1.,  the  new  Park 
is  entered.     This  municipal  ornament  is  still  in  process  of  construction, 
and  is  to  have  broad  parkways  leading  to  subordinate  public  grounds 
farther  in  the  city.     The  lake  and  lawns  have  been  completed,  and  pleas- 
ant drives  may  be  found  here.    The  Forest  Lawn  Cemetery  is  bounded 
on  2  sides  by  the  Park,  and  has  large  grounds  adorned  with  lakelets  and 
grove-crowned  hills,  among  which  are  many  fine  monuments.    To  fche  W., 
towards  the  river,  are  the  new  and  costly  ranges  of  buildings  which  are 
being  erected  for  the  State  Asylum  for  the  Insane. 

The  commercial  importance  of  Buffalo  is  due  to  its  safe  and  capacious  harbor, 
at  the  E.  end  of  free  navigation  tm  the  Great  Lakes,  and  to  the  termination  here 
of  the  Erie  Canal.  With  the  exception  of  N.  Y.  City,  this  is  the  chief  point  on 
the  continent  for  shipping  grain,  and  employs  great  fleets  in  transporting  it  from 
the  W.  In  1872,  62,000,000  bushels  arrived  here  by  lalce,  and  30,000,000  by  rail- 
road, for  whose  storage  there  are  31  elevators,  with  a  capacity  of  7-8,000,000 
bushels,  and  a  transfer  capacity  of  nearly  3,000,000  bushels  per  day.  The  coal 
traffic  is  altfo  of  great  magnitude,  and  the  receipts  thereof  in  1870  aiucuated  to 


236     Route  SS, 


BUFFALO. 


878,787  tons.  Between  1857  and  1871  there  were  sent  East  from  Buffolo,  2,783,186 
cattle,  4,745,451  sheep,  and  4,268,605  hogs.  In  1870  the  entries  and  clearances 
(American  and  Canadian)  at  this  port  amounted  to  '  ,625  vessels,  with  4,157,703 
toimage,  and  105,708  sailors.  The  manufactures  of  B^ft'alo  are  of  great  extent  and 
value,  including  immense  iron-works,  rails,  and  car-wheels,  machinery,  leather 
(40  establishments),  pianos,  scales,  ropes,  furniture,  ale  and  beer  (40  breweries). 

The  Erie  Canal  was  built  between  1817  and  1825,  and  extends  from  Builalo 
to  Albany  and  W.  Ti-oy  (352  M.)  by  Rochester,  Syracuse,  and  Utica.  It  has  cost 
about  $45,000,000,  and  has  655  ft.  of  lockage  in  71  locks  (16  of  which  are  found  In 
thb  last  3  M.  at  Troy,  and  require  5  hrs.  to  pass).  There  are  over  7,000  canal- 
boats,  with  28,000  men,  and  16,000  horses  and  mules.  The  boats  cost  $3-5,000 
each,  and  make  6  round  trips  every  season,  each  boat  containing  more  than  a 
freight  train.  .  They  pass  tvoxa.  Buffalo  to  Albany  in  11  days,  running  night  and 
day,  the  crews  being  divided  into  2  watches.  In  the  active  season  150  boats  reach 
the  Hudson  daily,  and  in  the  last  80  years  the  ca.'talhas  transported  over  50,000,000 
tons  of  ft^ight.  In  the  year  1871-72,  9,993,214  tons  of  freight  passed  from  the 
West  to  the  seaboard,  of  which  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  carried  2,250,000  tons ; 
the  Erie,  1,262,881 ;  the  Pennsylvania,  1,192,846  ;  the  Bait,  and  Ohio,  720,275  ; 
and  the  Erie  Canal,  3,087,212. 

Bu£ftilo  received  its  name  from  the  fact  that  the  early  French  travellers  saw 
large  herds  of  wild  cattle  here,  and  hence  named  it  Buffle.  It  was  laid  out  in  1801 
by  the  Holland  Land  Co.  under  the  name  of  New  Amsterdam,  and  owes  the  pecu- 
liar arrangement  of  its  streets  to  the  fact  that  it  was  surveyed  by  one  of  the  Elli- 
cott  brothers,  who  learned  the  art  of  obliquing  streets  across  rectangular  squares 
in  laying  out  Washington  City.  This  district  was  the  theatre  of  stirring  events 
during  the  War  of  ■  1812, — the  chief  of  v/hich  were  the  sacking  and  burning  of 
Buflfklo  by  the  Royal  Scots  Regiment  (Dec.  30,  1813),  and  the  battles  about  Fort 
Erie.  This  fort  was  captured  in  1813  by  the  Americans,  and  again  in  1814.  After 
the  heavy  battles  at  Chippewa  and  Niagara  Falls,  the  American  army  fell  back  to 
this  point  and  strengthened  the  defences.  The  British  army  advanced  to  and 
besieged  Fort  Erie,  and  after  a  long  cannonade  made  a  determined  night  attack 
on  several  points.  T-e  assault  on  Towson's  battery  was  repulsed  by  the  21st  U. 
8.  regulars,  after  5  successive  charges,  during  which  the  hostile  ranks  were  swept 
with  canister.  On  the  right  a  force  of  British  veterans  succeeded  in  scaling  the 
parapet  under  a  tremendous  fire,  and  held  the  bastion  against  repeated  attacks  of 
overwhelming  American  forces.  The  bastion  was  finally  blown  up,  with  all  its 
defenders,  and  the  fort  opened  a  general  cannonade  on  all  sides,  upon  which  the 
assault  was  given  up.  The  British  lost  221  men  killed,  174  wounded,  and  186 
prisoners,  and  the  American  loss  was  84.  Sept.  17,  1814,  the  Americans  made  a 
sortie  in  force  upon  the  dangerously  advanced  parallels  of  the  besiegers,  and  un- 
der cover  of  a  dense  fog  2,000  men  swept  over  and  through  the  British  intrench- 
ments,  spiking  their  guns  and  inflicting  a  loss  on  them  of  nearly  1,000  men.  The 
hostile  &rmy  soon  abandoned  its  camps  and  retired  by  night  to  Chippewa. 

Only  2  houses  remained  in  Buffalo  after  th«.  "British  attack  in  1813,  but  its  re- 
building began  in  1816,  and  in  1818  the  Walk-in-the-'lVater,  the  first  steamer  on 
Lake  Erie,  was  built  at  Black  Rock.  The  harbor  was  constructed  by  the  citizens 
in  1820,  and  in  1827  the  U.  S.  Gov't  built  the  piers.  The  city  has  continued  to 
grow  in  wealth  and  population  since  the  completion  of  the  Erie  Canal  (1825).  In 
1820  it  had  2.095  inhabitants  ;  in  1840,  18,213  ;  in  1860,  81,129  ;  in  1870, 117,178 ; 
and  in  1874  (estimated),  160,000. 

The  Lake  Shore  and  Michigan  Southern  JH.  R. 

runs  W.  from  Buffalo  to  Dunkirk,  40  M. ;  Erie,  88  ;  Painesville.  154  ;  Cleveland, 
183  ;  Toledo,  296  ;  and  Chicago,  540  (20-22  hrs.).  Fare  from  Buffalo  to  Chicago, 
$15.60.  The  train  runs  S.  from  Buffalo,  near  the  lake,  but  not  generally  in  sight 
of  it.  Beyond  Hamburgh-on-the-Lake,  it  passes  Angola,  and  crosses  Cattaraugus 
Creek  at  Irving.  At  Dunkirlc  (see  page  231)  the  Erie  Railway  comes  in  from 
the  E.,  and  the  Dunkirk,  Warren  and  Pittsburgh  R.  R.  from  theB.  At  Brocton, 
the  Buffalo,  Corry,  and  Pittsburgh  R.  R.  comes  in  flrom  the  8.  The  train  now 
passes  the  populous  ^illage  of  Westfleld,  arid  enters  Pennsylvania  beyond  the  sta- 
tion of  Ripley,  traversing  the  town  of  North  East,  about  1  M.  from  Lake  Erie. 
North  East  Borough  (Dawson  House)  hi  a  2,000  inhabitants,  and  is  situated  among 
ext<)iisive  vineyards.    The  South  Short  vineyards  are  |  M.  N.,  and  produce  20,000 


CHAUTAUQUA  LAKE.  R(nUeS4>      237 


gallons  of  wine  yearly.  Beyond  the  hamlets  of  Harbor  Creek  and  Wesleyville  the 
city  of  Erie  is  entered.  The  line  then  follows  the  lake  shore,  and  at  a  short  dis- 
ttuice  beyond  Fairview  it  enters  the  State  of  Ohio. 

34.  New  York  to  Ohio. 

By  the  Erie  and  the  Atlantic  and  Great  Western  Railways.  The  Erie  Railway 
fl*om  New  York  to  Salamanca,  see  pages  219-231.  The  Atlantic  and  (jreat 
Western  Railway  runs  W.  from  Salamanca,  and  is  one  of  the  main  first-class  routes 
to  the  Western  States.  Statlf^na*  —  Salamanca,  413  M.  ttova.  New  York  ;  Red 
House,  420  ;  Steamburg,  425  ;  Randolph,  431 ;  Kennedy,  438  ;  Jamestown,  447  ; 
Ashville,  454 ;  Panama,  458 ;  Grant,  461  ;  Freehold,  464  ;  Columbus,  471 ;  Corry, 
474;  Union,  485;  Mill  Village,  492  ;  Millers,  498;  Cambridge,  501  ;  Venango,  605  : 
BaegertoMOi,  509 ;  Meadville,  515  ;  Suttons,  523 ;  Evansburg,  529 ;  Atlantic,  634 ; 
Greenville,  542  ;  Shenango,  544  ;  Clarksville,  548  ;  Orangenlle,  654 ;  Akron,  616 ; 
Marion,  717  ;  Dayton,  802  ;  Cincinnati,  861 ;  St  Louis,  1,201. 

The  train  follows  the  valley  of  the  Allegany  River  S.  W.  from  Sala- 
manca, then  runs  through  the  forest  towns  of  Cold  Spring,  Randolph,  and 
Poland;  enters  the  Conewango  Valley,  and  reaches  Jameitown  {Cfifford 
House;  American;  Jamestown).  This  is  a  thriving  town  of  5,336  in- 
habitants, with  8  churches  (2  Swedish),  3  banks,  and  3  newspapers,  while 
large  factories  are  located  on  the  rapids  of  the  Chautauqua  Outlet.  There 
are  also  considerable  exports  of  dairy  products,  and  much  of  the  freight- 
ing hence  is  done  by  boats  on  the  Conewango  and  Allegany  Rivers.  The 
town  was  settled  by  men  of  New  England  (in  1812),  and  was  named  in 
honor  of  its  proprietor.  Judge  James  Prendergast.  Chautaaqua  Lake 
is  18  M.  long  and  1-3  M.  wide;  and  is  siirrounded  by  hills  5-600  ft, 
high.  It  is  1,291  ft.  above  the  sea  (the  highest  navigable  water  on  the 
continent),  and  the  name  signifies  "  a  fo^y  place,"  indicating  one  of  its 
characteristics.  A  steamer  nms  semi-daily  from  Jamestown  up  the  out- 
let and  lak(\  to  Mayville  (22  M.),  passing  the  hamlet  of  Fluvanna  on 
the  r.,  as  the  lake  is  entered.  After  running  N.  W.  8  M.,  Bemus  Point 
seems  to  close  the  passage  in  advance,  but  is  rounded  by  a  narrow  strait 
which,  after  2-  3  M.  of  sinuous  course,  leads  to  another  opr  \  reach  of  the 
lake  stretching  from  Magnolia  (W.  shore)  N.  W.  in  7-8  M.  to  Majrville 
{Chautauqtia  Lake  Hoicse  ;  Fox  House).  This  hamlet  is  the  capital  of 
Chautauqua  County,  and  has  3  churches  and  2  newspapers.  It  is  favorably 
situated  near  the  head  of  the  lake  (and  on  the  B.,  C  &  P.  R.  R.),  and  has 
many  summer  visitors. 

The  train  runs  S.  W.  from  Jamestown,  and  Pennsylvania  is  entered 
beyond  Ashville  and  Panama.  At  Corry  the  line  intersects  the  Alle- 
gheny Valley,  Buffalo,  Corry  and  Pittsburgh,  and  Philadelphia  and 
Erie  R.  Rs.,  and  its  course  lies  near  the  latter  road  for  12  M.,  when 
it  diverges  to  the  S.  W.  and  passes  down  the  French  Creek  Valley  to 
Venango  and  Saegertown,  in  the  famous  Penn.  oil  district.  Meadville 
{McHenry  Hotise  ;  Colt  House  ;  Rupp's)  is  pleasantly  located  in  a  vallejr 
ou  the  E.  side  of  Venango  River,  and  has  large  machine- works  and  woollen 


288     HouU  SB, 


MEADVILLE. 


mills,  together  with  the  workshops  of  the  A.  &  G.  W.  Railway.  The  busi- 
ness part  of  the  city  is  substantially  built,  and  there  are  2  banks  and  15 
churches.  The  pleasant  Greendole  Cemetery  is  in  the  suburbs.  There  is 
a  small  Opera-House,  and  a  public  library  (in  Porter's  Block).  The  city 
was  founded  and  fortified  by  Oen.  David  Mead  (in  1789)  on  the  old  war- 
trail  between  Forts  Venango  and  Leboeuf.  In  1816  it  had  400 inhabitants; 
in  1860,  3,702;  and  in  1870,  7,103.  AUegkeny  Collegt  is  situated  on  a 
hill  N.  of  the  city,  and  has  3  buildings,  7  professors,  and  130  students.  It 
was  opened  in  1816  under  the  care  of  the  Presbyterian  Church,  and  was 
built  up  by  the  exertions  of  its  president,  Timothy  Alden,  D.  D.  He  se- 
cured much  aid  from  New  England,  and  brought  here  the  private  libraries 
of  Judge  Winthrop  and  Isaiah  Thomas.  He  procured  also  the  large  and 
valuable  library  of  Dr.  Bentley  (of  Salem,  Mass. ),  whose  portrait  i»  now 
in  the  hall  of  the  Allegheny  Literary  Society.  In  1838  the  th^r.  languish- 
ing college  was  transferred  to  the  care  of  the  Methodist  Church,  and  is 
now  in  a  thriving  condition.  LadieS  are  admitted  to  the  full  course.  The 
Meadville  Theological  School  was  established  in  1844,  and  pertains  to 
moderate  Unitarianism.  It  has  7  professors,  and  a  library  of  9,000  vol- 
umes. A  branch  R.  R.  runs  S.  E.  from  Meadville  down  the  valley  of 
French  Creek  to  Franklin  (28  M.)  and  Oil  City  (36  M.). 

The  train  runs  S.  from  Meadville,  and  soon  leaves  the  French  Creek, 
turning  W.  to  Evansburg,  2  M.  S.  of  the  hamlet  of  Evansburg  (LaJce 
House),  which  is  on  the  S.  shore  of  Conneant  Lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of 
water  4  x  2  M.  in  extent.  It  abounds  in  fish,  and  is  famed  for  an 
abundance  of  double  white  pond-lilies.  Running  now  to  the  S.  W.  near 
the  Erie  Canal  of  Penn.,  the  line  soon  crosses  the  Jamestown  and  Frank- 
lin Div.  of  the  Lake  Shore  R.  R  At  the  populous  borough  of  Oreenville 
it  meets  the  Erie  and  Pittsburgh  and  the  Shenango  and  Allegheny  R.  Rs., 
then  passes  out  across  the  town  of  Pymatuning,  and  enters  the  State  of 
Ohio  beyond  the  station  of  Orangeville,  307  M.  N.  E.  of  Cincinnati. 


I  Hi 


l!^  : ' 


36.  New  York  to  Scranton  and  Oswego.   The  Delaware 

Water  Gap. 

By  the  Delaware,  Lackawanna  and  Western  B.  R. ,  team  the  foot  of  Barclay 
8t.  or  Christopher  St.,  N.  Y.  City,  to  the  terminal  station  on  the  N.  J.  shore; 
thence  to  Scranton,  in  6|  hrs  ;  to  Binghamton,  iu  10  hrs.  ;  to  Utica,  in  13  hrs. ; 
to  Oswego,  in  15^  hrs.  Fares  from  N.  Y.  to  Orange,  30c.  ;  to  Moriidtowu,  80c. ; 
to  Hackettstown,  $  1.70  ;  to  Easton.  lj(2.25. 

Stations*  —  New  York  ;  Hoboken,  2  M.  {BoonUm,  Branch.  Kingsland,  5 ; 
Butlierftiitl  Park,  9;  Delawanna,  11;  Passaic,  12;  Clifton,  14;  Paterson,  17; 
Beavertown,  25  ;  Whitehall,  27  ;  Montville.  29  ;  Boonton,  32  ;  Denville,  37).  Main 
Litu.  Hoboken,  2  ;  Newark,  10 ;  Orange,  13 ;  S.  Orange,  15 ;  Milbum,  19 ;  Summit, 
22 :  Cl>%tham,  25 ;  Madison,  27  ;  Morristown,  31 ;  Morris  Plains,  34 ;  Denville,  38  ; 
Bockaway,  40  ;  Dover,  43  ;  Drakesville,  48  ;  Stanhope,  53  ;  Waterloo,  56 ;  Hack* 
ettstown,  62  ;  Port  Murray,  68 ;  Washington,  71  (Easton,  85) :  Oxford  Furnace,  75 1 
Bridgeville,  80  ;  Manunka  Chunk,  82  ;  Delaware,  84 ;  Portland,  87 ;  Water  Gap, 
92  ;  Stroudsbuig,  96 :  HenryviUe,  104 ;  Oakland,  109 ;  Forks ;  Tobyhanna,  122 ; 


-4 


ORANGE. 


ItouU  36.      239 


^ay.  The  bnsl- 
banks  and  15 
irbs.  There  ifi 
>ck).  The  city 
11  the  old  war- 
00  inhabitants; 
situated  on  a 
0  students.  It 
iurch,  and  was 
D.  D.  He  se- 
rivate  libraries 
>  the  large  and 
ortrait  la  now 
thfir.  languish- 
Dhurch,  and  is 
II  course.  The 
nd  pertains  to 
r  of  9,000  vol- 
the  valley  of 

French  Creek, 
msburg  {Lake 
iitiful  sheet  of 
famed  for  an 
he  S.  W.  near 
vn  and  Frank- 

of  Oreenville 
ghenyB.Rs., 

the  State  of 
icinnati. 

I  Delaware 


toot  of  Barclay 
le  N.  J.  shore; 
ica,  in  13  hrs. ; 
riidtowu,  80c. ; 

Kingsland,  6; 

Paterson,  17; 
ille,  37).  Main 
a,  19 ;  Summit, 

DenvUle,  38 ; 
loo,  56 ;  Hack- 
tl  Furnace,  76 ; 
7;  Water  Gap, 
byhanna,  122; 


1 

-.4 


m 


Gouldsborf)',  128  ;  Moscow,  180;  Dunning's,  131> ;  Scranton,  149  (branch  to  North- 
umberland, 229) ;  AbinKton,  169  ;  Factoryvillc,  104  ;  Nicholson,  170  ;  Hopbottom, 
176 ;  Montrose,   183 ;    New  Milford,   190 :    Great  Bend,  196  ;   Blngharaton,  210 

Sjranch  to  Utica,  306)  ;  Chenango,  217  :  Chenango  Forks,  221 ;  Whitney's  Point, 
31 :  Lisle,  233  ;  Marathon,  240  ;  State  Bridge,  246  ;  Cortland,  264  ;  Homer,  257  ; 
Prebln,  264  ;  Tnlly,  269  ;  Apulia,  271 ;  Onntivia,  276  :  Jamcsville,  283  ;  Syracuae, 
290 ;  iJaldwinsville,  802  ;  Lamson's,  808 ;  Fulton,  814  ;  Oswego.  826. 

Morris  and  Essex  Division. 

To  Easton,  85  M.  ;  trains  in  4  -  4J  hrs.  The  passenger  leaves  New 
York  by  ferry-boat,  aud  takes  the  train  at  Hoboken,  whence  the  Bergen 
Tunnel  is  traversed.  (A  new  tunnel  has  been  cut  at  great  expense  for  the 
Morris  and  Essex  R.  R.)  Tlie  Hackensack  River  and  wide  marshes  are 
crossed,  and  beyond  the  Passaic  River  the  train  stops  at  Newark  (see 
R^ute  37).  A  branch  railway  runs  hence  through  the  populous  town  of 
Bloomfleld,  with  its  paper  and  hat  factories,  to  Montclair,  6  M.  N.  W. 
Just  beyond  Newark  the  train  enters  Orange  (Park  House  ;  Central 
Hotel),  a  city  of  15,000  inhabitants.  The  streets  are  wide  and  well 
shaded,  and  contain  many  costly  villas  of  New  York  merchants.  Near 
the  Orange  station  are  the  buildings  of  the  Pres.  Church,  High  School, 
and  Library.  Horse-cars  run  to  Newark  (3  M),  and  there  are  2  railroads 
to  New  York  (12  M.),  affording  frequent  and  quick  access  to  that  city. 
To  the  W.  is  Llewelyn  Park,  a  district  of  villas  and  elegant  mansions 
arranged  about  a  pleasant  park  called  the  Ramble.  Above  this  point, 
and  W.  of  the  city,  is  the  ^ong  ridge  of  Orange  Mt*,  on  whose  crest  are 
the  estates  of  Gens.  McClellan,  Marcy,  and  other  eminent  men.  There 
are  beautiful  views  from  various  points  on  the  ridge,  —  especially  from 
the  vicinity  of  Eagle  Rock,  whence  N.  Y.  City,  with  its  bay  and  suburbs, 
is  overlooked. 

Passing  S.  through  Montrose  (*S.  Orange  Mt.  House)',  S.  Orange, 
near  the  Catholic  college  of  Seton  Hall ;  and  Maplewood,  with  their 
homes  of  N.  Y.  merchants,  the  line  turns  W.  and  crosses  the  N.  J.  W. 
R.  R.  near  Milbum.  With  Springfield  Mt.  on  the  1.  and  the  Short  Hills 
on  the  r.,  the  train  ascends  long  grades  to  Summit  (*  Summit  House; 
Pierre  House),  a  summer  resort  on  the  Second  Mt.  On  the  r.  are  seen 
Boonton,  Chatham,  and  Morristown ;  and  on  the  1.  are  Elizabeth  and  the 
fertile  plains  of  Union  County,  with  Springfield  near  at  hand  in  the  S.  E. 

June  23, 1780,  6-6,000  British  troops,  with  20  cannon,  advanced  from  Eliza- 
bethtown  to  Springfield,  intending  to  cut  through  the  discouraged  Continentals 
and  break  up  tlie  camps  at  Morristown.  They  were  met  here,  at  the  passes  of 
tlie  Short  Hills ,  by  Gen.  Greene  and  the  N.  J.  militia,  and  a  sharp  engagement 
ensued.  The  enemy  carried  the  village  of  Springfield  and  destroyed  it ;  but  the 
Americans  formed  on  the  Short  Hills  and  checked  the  farther  advance  of  the  ex- 
pedition, which  retreated  hastily  to  Elizabethtown. 

Recrossing  the  N.  J.  W.  R.  R.  and  the  Passaic  River,  beyond  Chatham 

the  train  descends  through  the  hills  to  Madison,  the  seat  of  the  Drew 


240     Boute  36, 


MORKISTOWN. 


t!       ! 


ill 


Theological  Sen**.nai7,  a  Methodist  institution  occupying  several  small 

buildings  in  a  tree-studded  park  of  200  acres.    Beyond  the  station  near 

the  Convent  of  St.  Elizabeth,  the  train  reaches  Morriitown  {Park  House  ; 

Grand  View;  U.  S. ;  Mansion),  the  capital  of  Morris  County,     It  is 

beautifully  situated  on  a  high  plateau  near  the  Whippany  River,  and  is  a 

favorite  summer  resort  for  New-Yorkers.    The  new  and  superb  State 

Insane  Asylum  is  on   Pigeon   Mountain.    It  cost  $3,000,000,  and  is 

built  o'l  granite,  in  semi-Gothic  architecture.     On  a  high  knoll  back 

of  the  court-house  are  the  remains  of  the  ancient  Revolutionary  Fort 

Nonsense ;   and  the  pretty  Lake  Speedwell  is  near  the  village.    The 

park  is  adorned  with  a  soldiers'  monimient ;  and  ^  M.  E.  is  the  ancient 

building  of  Washington's  Head-quarters^  now  owned  by  the  State. 

In  the  winter  of  1777-78  the  American  army  was  encamped  about  Morristown, 
the  main  force  being  at  Spring  Valley  (the  Indian  Lowantica).  S.  E.  of  the  village. 
On  the  Short  Hills,  by  Chatham,  were  guarded  beacons ;  and  by  Summit  were 
strong  picket-lines,  to  watch  the  British  in  N.  Y.  The  head-quarters  were  on  the 
village  park,  and  here  Washington  was  initiated  into  the  Masonic  order.  In  the 
winter  of  1779-80  the  army  was  again  quartered  about  MoiTistown  ;  and  Wabhr- 
ington  occupied  the  Ford  mansion  (now  sacredly  preserved),  about  Miiich  bis 
body-guard  was  encamped.  The  main  body  was  cantonned  toward  Mendhaih ; 
and  the  soldiers  were  engaged  in  building  Fort  Noii sense,  to  avert  the  evil  conse- 
quences of  idleness.  The  sufferings  from  cold  and  hunger  were  intense ;  but  "  as 
an  army,  they  bore  it  with  the  most  heroic  patience."  The  forces  were  reviewed 
with  great  pomp,  in  April,  1780,  by  the  ambassadors  of  France  and  Spain,  the 
latter  of  whom,  Don  Juan  de  Miralles,  died  here  soon  afterward,  and  received  a 
stately  burial  in  the  village  churchyard.  The  only  revolt  in  the  continental  army 
took  place  here  early  in  1780,  when  the  Penn.  line  (2,000  soldiers),  being  unpaid 
and  held  in  service  after  their  time  had  expired,  rose  against  their  officers  and 
marched  to  Princeton,  where  they  were  paid  and  disbanded  by  order  of  Congress. 

The  train  runs  N.  from  Morristown,  with  Watnong  Mt.  on  the  1.,  passes 
Morris  Plains,  and  meets  the  Boonton  Branch  at  Denville. 

T?ie  .Boonton  Branch. 

The  through  express  trains  run  over  this  route.  Passengers  leave  N.  Y. 
by  fe^  from  Barclay  St.  or  Christopher  St.;  and  beyond  the  Bergen 
Tunnel  the  train  diverges  to  the  r.  from  the  Morris  and  Essex  R  R.,  and 
runs  N.  W.  across  the  marshes,  leaving  Snake  Hill  on  the  1.  Crossing 
the  Hackensack  and  Passaic  Rivers,  several  rural  stations  are  passed,  and 
the  line  reaches  PatersoU  (see  page  220).  Thence  the  course  is  to  the 
W.,  and  into  the  highlands.  Passing  along  the  S.  verge  of  the  Pompton 
Plains,  with  the  Towakhow  Mt.  on  the  1.,  the  Morris  Canal  is  followed 
to  Boonton  ( U.  S.  Hotel),  a  village  of  4,000  inhabitants.  It  is  situated 
among  craggy  and  rugged  highlands,  and  is  the  seat  of  several  iron- 
furnaces,  which  are  supplied  from  the  prolific  mines  in  the  vicinity. 
There  are  lai^e  nail-works  and  rolling-mills  near  Boonton,  an^  the  Morris 
Canal  here  rises  over  inclined  planes.  The  ancient  hamlet  of  Parcipf.ny 
is  4  M.  S.,  and  the  Rockaway  Valley  is  in  the  N.  W.  The  train  runs  W. 
from  Boonton  to  Denville^  where  it  passes  on  to  the  rails  of  the  Morris 


u  ■ 


LAKE  HOPATCONO. 


RouUSS.      241 


ireral  small 

bation  near 

irk  House; 

nty.    It  is 

BT,  and  is  a 

perb  State 

00,  and  is 

cnoU  back 

)nary  Fort 

[age.    The 

;he  ancient 

ate. 

Morristown, 
'  the  village, 
ummit  were 
were  on  the 
der.  In  the 
;  and  Wabh^- 
t  M'hich  his 
Mendhaih ; 
)  evil  conse- 
se ;  but  "  as 
jre  reviewed 
1  Spain,  the 
1  received  a 
nental  army 
•eing  unpaid 
officers  and 
of  Congress. 


eave  N.  Y. 
he  Bergen 
B.  R.,  and 
Crossing 
lassed,  and 
}e  is  to  the 
B  Pompton 
is  followed 
is  situated 
sreral  iron- 
e  vicinity, 
the  Morris 
Parcipr.ny 
in  runs  W. 
the  Morris 


w 


■^ 


and  Essex  B.  R  At  Rockaway  a  branch  track  runs  N.  to  the  extensive 
Hibemia  and  Beach  Olen  mines.  Station,  Dover  (Mansion  H(mse\  a 
small  city  engaged  in  the  iron  manufacture.  A  branch  track  runs  S. 
through  a  mining  country,  and  passing  Ferromonte,  Ironia,  and  the 
Succasuna  Plains,  to  Chester,  a  pleasant  village  among  the  hills  (summer 
board  at  i\\  /oung  Ladies'  Institute).  Beyond  Dover  another  branch 
runs  N.  to  the  mines  at  Mt.  Hope;  and  the  Brookland  Mts.  are  seen  on 
the  r.  as  the  train  passes  along  the  Rockaway  River  to  DrakesvilUf 
whence  stages  run  4  M.  N.  to  Lake  Hopatoong,  a  loftily  situated  lake 
(720  ft.  above  the  Hudson)  among  the  Brookland  Mts.  It  is  9  M.  long 
and  4  M.  wide,  and  has  2  islands  (Canfield  and  Halsey),  which  are  much 
visited.  The  waters  contain  pickerel,  perch,  and  salmon-trout,  and  the 
shores  are  lined  with  forests  (among  which  are  iron-mines).  From  South- 
ard's Peak  the  country  is  overlooked  from  the  Bloomfield  Mts.  to  the 
Delaware  Water  Gap.  The  name  Hopatcong  means  **  Stone  over  Water," 
and  was  probably  given  by  the  Indians  on  account  of  an  ancient  stone 
causeway  (now  submerged)  leading  from  a  large  Indian  village  to  one  of 
the  islands;  but  the  lake  is  locally  known  as  Brookland  Pond.  2  small 
steamers  ply  on  its  waters,  and  summer  visitors  are  accommodated  by 
several  hotels  {Lake  Hopatcov^g  House  ;  Lake  View,  etc.).  Station,  Port 
Morris,  in  the  gap  between  Schooley's  Mt.  and  Brookland  Mt.,  an  im- 
portant point  for  the  trans-shipment  of  coal,  and  near  long  inclined  planes 
on  the  Morris  Canal,  up  which  the  boats  are  drawn  by  powerful  stationary 
engines.  The  Ogden  Mine  R.  R.  is  being  built  from  this  point  along 
Lake  Hopatcong  to  the  iron-mines,  15  M.  N.  From  Stan?iope  station 
stages  run  2^  M.  N.  to  Lake  Seneoawana  (Budd's  Lake),  a  beautiful 
sheet  of  water  well  up  among  the  highlands.  It  is  nearly  round,  and  is 
3||  M.  in  circumference,  lined  with  foliage  and  arable  slopes,  and  affords 
pretty  mt.  viev/s.  The  clear  waters  are  the  abode  of  many  fish,  and  the 
pursuit  of  pickerel  is  a  favorite  pastime  here,  while  many  pond-lilies  are 
found  over  the  shallows.  The  lake  is  1,200  ft.  high,  and  its  secluded 
beauty,  together  with  the  ease  of  access,  have  made  it  a  favorite  summer 
resort  {* Forest  House,  200  guests,  $3  a  day,  $15-21  a  week).  Lake 
Hopatcong  is  visited  from  this  point,  and  Schooley's  Mt.  is  8  M.  distant. 

The  train  passes  from  Stanhope  to  Waterloo,  a  small  hamlet  S.  E.  of 
Pohatcong  Mt.,  whence  the  Sussex  R.  R.  nms  N.  to  Kewton  {Cochran 
House :  Willard  House),  the  capital  of  Sussex  County.  On  and  about 
the  public  square  are  5  churches  and  the  Court  House,  and  to  the  W.  is 
the  Collegiate  Institute.  By  reason  of  its  lofty  situation  and  clear  air, 
Newton  is  much  visited  in  summer.  The  Sussex  R.  R.  passes  on  to 
Franklin,  where  it  meets  the  Midland  R.  R.  (see  page  216). 

Leaving  Alamuche  Mt.  on  the  r.,  the  line  runs  S.  W.  down  the  narrow 
and  fertile  Musconetcong  Valley  alongside  of  the  Morris  and  Essex  Canal, 
11  P 


242      RouUSS,         SCHOOLEY'S  MOUNTAIN. 


1^ 
I'i 


ii\ 


•  ( 


to  Haokettitown  (American  ffoiue;  Warren),  a  borough  of  8,000  in- 
habitants,  in  a  rich  farming  country.  Sohooley'i  Moantain  is  8  -  4  M. 
S.  E.  of  this  place  (stages  frequently),  and  is  about  1,200  ft.  high.  In  a 
glade  on  the  W.  declivity,  |  M.  from  the  hotels,  and  near  the  summit,  is  a 
celebrated  chalybeate  spring,  containing  carbonated  oxide  of  iron,  muriates 
of  soda,  lime,  and  magnesia,  sulphate  of  lime,  etc.  The  water  is  pleasant 
to  the  taste,  and  is  a  fine  tonic,  being  also  beneficial  in  cases  of  dyspeptic 
and  calculous  troubles.  The  discharge  of  the  water  is  small,  and  the  spring 
is  protected  by  a  neat  canopy.  The  purity  of  the  highland  air,  and  the 
picturesque  scenery  in  the  vicinity,  attract  many  summer  visitors  to  this 
point.  The  *  Heath  House  and  *  Belmont  Hall  are  the  principal  hotels, 
and  ar6  largely  patronized  by  New-Yorkers. 

Malvern  Hill  is  seen  to  the  W.  of  Hackettstown,  as  the  train  follows 
the  canal  and  river  to  the  S.  W.  Beyond  the  hamlet  of  Port  Murray,  it 
reaches  Washington  {Union  Hotel),  a  pretty  and  prosperous  village  in  a 
fertile  farming  country.  The  Morris  and  Essex  B.  R.  runs  thence  14  M. 
S.  W.  by  Stewartsville  to  Phillipsburg  and  Easton.  The  train  now  passes 
on  to  the  rails  of  the  Del.,  Lack.  &  Western  B.  B.,  and  runs  N.  W.  to 
Oxford  Furnace  and  Bridgeville;  then  traverses  the  Voss  Gap  Tunnel 
through  Manunka  Chunk  Mt.  (1,000  ft.  long)  and  meets  the  Belvidere 
Delaware  B.  B.  (Boute  44)  at  Manunka  Chunk.  At  Delaware  station 
time  is  usually  given  for  lunch,  and  then  the  train  crosses  the  Delaware 
Biver  and  enters  the  State  of  Pennsylvania.  Portland  station  is  opposite 
the  N.  J.  hamlet  of  Columbia,  and  the  line  passes  on  by  i^ate/ord  (large 
slate  quarries),  with  the  Blue  Mts.  closing  in  ahead.  The  Water  Gap  fs 
now  entered,  and  is  traversed  on  a  narrow  gallery  between  the  river  and 
the  mt.  (the  views  on  the  r.  are  preferable).  The  train  soon  stops  at  the 
station  for  the 

Delaware  Water  Chip. 

Hotels. —*  Water  Gap  House,  on  the  summit  of  Sunset  Hill,  a  new  house  for 
800  guests,  $4  a  day,  9*21  a  week ;  *  Kittatiny  House,  918  a  week ;  and  several  sum- 
mer boarding-houses, — the  Olenwood,  above  the  village,  the  Mountain  House 
(9 10-12  a  week),  the  Analomink,  Maple  Cottage,  Cataract,  Highland  Dell,  and 
others. 

Railroadf.  —  To  New  York,  by  the  Morris  &  Essex  B.  B.  (without  change, 
in  'djt  hrs.)  ;  fare,  $  2.65.    To  Philadelphia,  in  4  hrs. ;  fare,  $  2.95.    Bow-boats  and 

glides  at  the  landing  below  the  Kittatiny  House.    Photographs  of  the  scenery  at 
raves's,  near  the  Kittatiny. 

At  the  Delaware  Water  Gap  the  Delaware  Biver  passes  through  a  nar- 
row defile  of  the  Kittatiny  Mts.,  which  attain  a  height  of  1,600  ft.  on 
either  side.  As  the  stream  flows  down  from  the  Minisink  Valley  and 
reaches  the  great  barrier  of  the  Blue  Bidge,  it  makes  a  sudden  bend  to  the 
E.  and  passes  between  the  craggy  portals  of  the  Gap,  where  its  waters 
are  60  ft.  deep.  The  Indians  called  the  country  N.  of  this  point  the 
Minisink  (me/.  ^Ing  "the  water  is  gone  "),  evidently  in  reference  to  some 


DELAWARB  WATER  GAP.        RoiUe  SS.      243 


ancient  tradition  of  a  lake-like  expanse  of  water  occupying  the  place. 
The  existence  of  high  marine  terraces,  alluvial  hills,  and  the  water-worn 
rocks  on  the  heights,  seem  to  favor  this  belief.  There  are  several  theories 
as  to  the  formation  of  the  Gap,  —  that  the  ridge  at  this  place  sank  down 
into  immense  caverns;  that  the  lake  burst  the  barrier  by  its  pressure; 
or  that  the  mountain-dam  was  slowly  worn  away  by  a  Niagara-like  cata- 
ract. Of  late  years  the  Water  Gap  has  become  a  popular  summer  resort, 
owing  to  the  unique  character  of  its  scenery,  and  to  its  vicinity  to  the  two 
chief  cities  of  the  Republic. 

Blockhead  ML  is  a  long  secondary  range  on  the  E.  shore,  which  lies 
across  and  partially  hides  the  Gap  from  the  hotels.  The  best  near  view 
of  the  chasm  is  gained  by  descending  the  river  in  a  boat  to  Mather's 
Spring  (IJ  M.  from  the  hotels;  on  the  N.  J.  shore).  The  Cold  Air  Cave 
and  Benner's  Spring  are  each  1|  M.  from  the  hotels  (by  river) ;  and  In- 
dian Ladder  Bluff,  the  Point  of  Rocks,  and  the  Slate  Factory  are  oft- 
visited  localities  along  the  shores.  The  Indian  Ladder  Bluff  is  a  promon- 
tory at  the  foot  of  Mt.  Tammany,  over  which  the  ancient  Indian  path 
was  carried  by  means  of  steps  cut  in  the  rock  and  a  tree  laid  against  one 
of  the  precipitous  sides.  Mt.  Minn  is  on  the  W.  (Penn.)  side  of  the 
Gap,  and  Mt.  Tammany  is  on  the  K  (N.  J.).  The  latter  summit  is 
ascended  (2^  M.  from  the  hotels)  by  a  rugged  path  beginning  near  the 
Slate  Factory,  and  gives  a  broad  view.  A  suspension-bridge  1,500  ft.  high 
is  to  be  built  from  Minsi  to  Tammany. 

This  mt.  is  named  in  honor  of  Tammany,  or  Tamanend,  an  ancient  Delaware 
chief,  who  was  renowned  for  wisdom,  virtue,  and  charity.  Howbeit  without  the 
sanction  of  the  church,  this  pagan  sage  was  canonized  during  tlie  last  century, 
and  was  proclaimed  the  patron  saint  of  America.  His  festival  was  on  the  first  of 
May,  when  numerous  societies  which  bore  his  name  and  admired  his  virtues  were 
wont  to  assemble  in  their  wigwams  to  smoke  the  calumet  of  peace  and  pass  the 
day  in  merry-making.  These  societies  afterward  became  political  bodies,  in 
which  capacity  one  of  them  has  acquired  a  wide  notoriety. 

Pleasant  views  of  the  river  ai.  I  Gap  are  gained  from  the  road  near  the 
hotels,  and  also  from  the  Water  Gap  Hotel  on  Sunset  Hill  (from  whose 
tower  Ciherry  Valley  and  the  Shawnee  Hills  are  overlooked).  A  few  rods 
distant  from  either  hotel  is  the  small  pool  called  Lake  Lenape,  from  which 
the  Caldeno  Oeek  flows  down  by  the  Elittatiny  House.  Turning  to  the 
1.  from  the  lake,  and  following  a  path  marked  by  white  lines  on  rocks  and 
trees,  the  hill  is  ascended  by  a  steep  and  devicus  path  to  Cocfper's  Clif, 
600  ft.  above  the  river.  The  white  lines  conduct  along  the  E.  edge  of  the 
ridge  to  Table  Rock  (^  M.  from  the  hotel),  whence  extensive  views  are 
afforded.  Thence  the  white  lines  lead  in  ^  M.  to  the  upper  glen  of  Cal- 
deno Creek,  which  slides  down  Table  Rock  for  100  ft.  at  an  angle  of  45^ 
Among  the  trees  and  mosses  of  this  glen  is  the  deep  rock-basin  known  as 
Diana* 8  Bath,  below  which  are  the  Caldeno  Falls. 

The  sunuuit  of  Mt.  Minsi  is  3  M.  from  the  hotels,  and  commands  the 


\k  1, 


244      Route  35.      DELAWARE  WATER  GAP. 

most  extensive  prospect  in  this  district,  —  embracing  the  N.  valley  with 
its  surrounding  mts.  and  bright  river  (with  the  Pokono  and  Schooley's 
Mts.  in  the  distance),  and  also  the  great  plains  and  ranges  to  the  S.,  with 
many  villages  and  fanns.  This  peak  is  often  visited,  and  is  reached  by  a 
broad  forest-path  which  passes  behind  the  Kittatiny  bowliAg-alley,  and  is 
marked  by  red  lines  on  rucks  and  trees.  After  crossing  a  grassy  meadow 
and  ascending  a  low  ridge,  a  path  (marked  with  blue  lines)  diverges  to 
the  1.  to  the  cliff  called  Lover* a  Leap  (1  M.  from  the  hotels).  The  tradi- 
tion ctates  that  Winona,  a  beautiful  princess  of  the  Delawares,  leaped 
from  this  cliff  and  was  dashed  to  pieces  on  the  rocks  below  ;  being  lieart- 
sick  because  her  love  for  a  young  European  was  not  duly  reciprocated. 
The  *  view  of  the  Gap  from  this  point  is  held  to  be  the  finest,  and  forms  a 
favorite  study  for  artists,  j^  M.  beyond  the  entrance  to  the  Lover's  Leap, 
a  white-lined  path  diverges  to  the  r.  to  the  Hunter's  Spring,  a  sequestered 
forest-fountain.  The  Mt.  Mmsi  (red-lined)  path  continues  beyond  the 
entrance  to  this  point,  and  the  next  path  to  the  1.  (yellow-lined)  leads  to 
Prospect  Rock  (If  M.  from  the  hotels).  The  view  to  the  N.  is  broac|  and 
pleasing.  1|  M.  beyond  is  the  summit  of  Mt.  Minsi,  with  its  view  over 
8,000  square  M.,  in  5  counties.  Rebecca's  Bath,  Eureka  Falls,  and  Moss 
Grotto  are  on  a  brook  which  crosses  the  road  to  the  Gap,  ^  M.  S.  of  the 
hotels.  At  the  entrance  to  the  village  are  the  Methodist  Church  (r.)  and 
the  Church  of  the  Mts.  (1. ),  and  Mt.  Caroline  rises  behind  the  latter  to  a 
height  which  overlooks  Clierry  Valley  and  the  Shawnee  Hills.  The 
Lover's  Retreat  is  on  the  cliff  over  the  Kittatiny  House,  and  is  much  fre- 
quented on  account  of  its  retired  beauty  and  pleasant  views  over  the 
liver. 

Cherry  Valley  nms  W.  at  right  angles  with  the  Delaware,  and  is  35 
M.  long,  its  upper  portion  being  called  Aquonshicola.  Stroudshurg  is  4 
M.  from  the  hotels,  and  midway  the  long  ridge  called  Fox  Hill  is  crossed, 
yielding  panoramic  valley-views.  There  is  a  pleasant  drive  up  the  Valley 
for  6  M.  to  Crystal  Hill.  The  Buttermilk  and  the  Marshall  Falls  are 
respectively  3  M.  and  7  M.  distant,  and  at  high  water  are  worthy  of  a 
yisit.  Transue's  Knohy  on  the  Shawnee  Hills,  6  M.  distant,  is  a  tall 
diluvial  pyramid  which  commands  extensive  views,  and  Castle  Rock  is  in 
the  same  range  of  hills  (4  M.  distant).  The  Lake  of  the  Mt.  is  situated 
on  the  summit  of  one  of  the  New  Jersey  ridges,  4  M.  from  the  hotels,  and 
is  I  M.  long.  The  circuit  of  the  N.  J.  Hills  is  a  favorite  drive,  and  is 
made  by  ferrying  across  the  river  3  M.  below  the  Gap,  following  the  river- 
road  on  the  1.  bank  for  6  M.  N.,  and  then  recrossing  at  Shawnee  village. 
The  distance  is  about  12  M.  V 

The  valley  of  the  Minisink  is  sometimes  ascended  by  carriages,  over 
firm  and  level  roads  leading  through  pleasing  scenery.  10  M.  over  the 
liver-road,  and  3  M.  over  the  Shawnee  EUlls,  leads  to  Bashkill  {Perry's 


STROUDSBURO. 


Route  35.    245 


Hotel),  near  which  nre  the  Bu^hkill  Falls  (90  ft  high),  and  the  Winona 
Fall,  witli  its  B  Hi^ter-ciiscades.  13  M.  beyond  Hushkill  is  Dinyman'M 
Ferry  (High-FallH  IIouho),  near  some  pretty  waterfalls,  and  8  M.  fartlioj*  is 
^Mil/only  a  favorite  summpr-resort,  8  M.  from  l*ort  Jervis.  The  IllnfT 
House  is  a  new  summer-hotel,  commanding  a  grand  view  of  the  vulloy. 

The  Mlnisink  was  the  Ititlian  name  for  the  Delaware  Valley  N.  of  the  Water 
Gap,  and  this  region  was  inhabited  by  the  Minsi  trilMa  of  the  Leni  Lena|)e  (or 
Duliiware)  nation.  They  were  n  brave,  liunest,  and  religious  people,  and  received 
the  Moravian  ndssionurieti  gladly.  In  1725  wliite  HettleiH  entered  tiie  valley,  and 
by  a  series  of  discreditable  transactions  acquired  niudi  land  from  the  natives.  In 
1742  tlie  cliinf  Teodyuscung  gatiiered  tlie  roiunants  of  the  Delaware  tribes  and  led 
them  to  Wyoiuiiig,  wiieiice  tiiey  migrated  to  Ohio  some  yearn  later.  Settlers  en- 
tered the  Minisink  fTom  the  Hudson  Valley  and  from  Philadelphia,  and  the  Hhaw- 
nee  Hills  were  occupied  by  a  colony  'if  Germans.  In  1730  the  Uap  was  traversed 
by  provincial  officers,  and  in  1793  a  house  was  built  here  by  M.  Dutot,  a  French 
gentJeman.  In  1800  a  road  was  built  through  the  Gap,  although  most  of  the 
tralnc  to  Philadelphia  was  done  by  Durham  boats,  —  long  and  narrow  vessels  lil<e 
canal-lioats,  propelled  by  poles.  The  river  navigation  has  long  since  ceased,  uud 
the  railroad  forms  an  easier  route  of  supplies  for  the  increasing  population  of  the 
valley. 

"  The  masses  or  naked  rocks,  on  the  F  side  of  the  river  toward  the  S.  gorge, 
rising  to  an  elevation  of  800-1,000  ft.,  in  b'^me  places  as  upright  and  smooth  as 
though  a  creation  of  art, and  at  others  spliced,  ragged,  and  fi'owning,  are  compara- 
tively undistingulshable  while  obscured  by  the  r.iven  wing  of  night But 

the  l^st  position  for  surveying  the  whole  pass,  and  ei^Joying  its  sublimity  to  entire 
satisfaction,  is  from  a  small  boat  paddled  along  leisurely  upon  the  river  through 
the  gulf.  The  maps  furnish  no  just  Idea  of  the  channel  of  the  river  througli  the 
gap,  —  the  actual  course  resembling  tlie  sharp  curvatures  of  an  angry  8eq)cnt  be- 
fore he  is  coiled,  or  rather,  perhaps,  tills  section  of  the  river  would  bo  best  de- 
lineated by  a  line  lilce  abetter  8.  The  general  height  of  the  nit.  barriers  is  about 
1,000  ft.  They  are  all  very  precipitous,  and  while  sailing  along  their  bases  in  a 
skiff,  their  dreadful  summits  seem  actually  to  hang  beetling  over  the  head.  This 
is  especially  tlie  case  with  the  Jersey  mts., —  the  surfaces  of  which,  next  the 
river,  as  already  stated,  are  of  bare  roclts,  lying  in  regular  blocks,  In  long  ranges, 
as  even  as  though  hewn,  and  laid  la  strathlcatlons  like  stupendous  masonry,  — '  the 
masonry  of  God.'  ....  The  scenery  of  the  Water  Gap,  as  a  whole,  and  as  a  point 
of  attraction  for  the  lovers  of  Nature  In  her  wildness  and  grandeur,  by  far  tran- 
scends the  Highlands  of  Hudson's  River,  or  even  the  yet  more  admired  region  of 
the  Horlcon."    (Stone.) 

Beyond  the  Water  Gap  the  line  traverses  a  costly  cutting  in  the  flinty 
ledge  known  as  Rock  Difficult ;  passes  the  Analomink  House,  and  reaches 
Stroudsbnrg.  The  village  is  in  a  pleasant  valley  1  M.  S.  of  the  station 
(horse-cars)  and  is  an  attractive  place  with  1,800  inhabitants,  and  the 
buildings  of  Monroe  County.  1^  M.  distant  (and  4  M.  from  the  Water 
Gap)  is  the  summer  hotel  known  as  the  Highland  Dell  House  (100  guests), 
700  ft.  above  the  valley.  Stroudsburg  was  founded  by  Col.  Stroud  on 
the  site  of  Fort  Hamilton,  a  frontier-post  of  Penn.  in  the  French  and  In- 
dian war  (1755  -  63) ;  and  to  this  point  fled  great  numbers  of  people  after 
the  Massacre  of  Wyoming  (1778).  The  train  now  runs  up  the  fertile 
Minisink  Valley  to  Spragueville,  where  the  long  ascent  of  the  Pocono  Mis. 
is  begun.  The  grade  for  25  M.  averages  65  ft.  to  the  M.,  and  the  line 
traverses  a  forest-clad  wilderness,  with  occasional  hamlets  clustered  about 
saw-mills  or  tanneries.    The  great  Allegheny  ridge  is  rapidly  ascended ; 


246     RimU  33. 


SCRANTON. 


<   It 


jli 

lir 


..Mr 


•nd,  beyond  H«nryvlllo  and  Oakland,  a  grand  view  li  afforded  to  the  r., 
Inohuling  ihu  Wiitor  Gap  and  tliu  Uluu  Mia.  Beyond  Paradino  the  Pooono 
Tunnel  Ih  iraversod  (nitar  the  Nuninitt). 

"  Whun  t.ho  Riiinniit  of  rnkono  in  Kninod,  the  trnveUrr  in  upon  the  top  of  that 
wild  liiid  (t«ii(ilulo  UililH  of  i'lmn.  cxtoixltiiK  fur  upwartU  of  100  M.  betweon  and 
mmU«l  wttit  tlitf  Ihdiiwiui)  and  HuHquohnnna  Uivvi'N,  luul  '20-80  M.  in  breadth. 
Ikihimt  htm  U  a  nol)i«  liimUMntio  of  wooUod  hillM  and  ctilttvuted  valleys  bounded 
U,  HUd  8.  by  Uie  lUiie  Mta.,  wiilvh  Tonn  a  brnnchiug  rniiKo  of  the  AUeghauiea. 
The  Wind  Gap  U  diiitiuolly  and  boautlfully  In  aight."    (Htomb.) 

After  A  broad  curve  to  the  W.  and  S.  W.  (Pooono)  Forks  is  reached, 
and  the  lino  runs  thence  N.  W.  to  Tobyhanna,  a  sinull  hamlet  vrhere  the 
deaceuding  grade  oomnieuoos.  Passing  Qouldsborough  and  Moscow 
{Aytoacow  UoM)^  the  valley  of  Roaring  Brook  is  entered.  Many  sporta- 
men  visit  this  district  for  the  sake  of  the  fine  trout-ilshing.  At  Dunning'a 
the  gravity  road  of  the  Penn.  Coal  Co.'s  R.  R.  is  seen  on  the  r.,  coming  in 
from  Ilawley.  Steam  is  now  shut  off  on  the  locomotive  and  the  brakr* 
are  kvpt  in  applioation,  as  long  down-grades  are  travursod,  and  soon  t'lia 

^"Of      i 


Lackawanna  Volley  opens  below,  and  the  train  descends  to  the  civ^ 

Boranton.  ^ 

Ilolela*  —  •  Lackawanna  Valley  Houso,  oppoaitn  the  station,  •  8  a  day ;  •  Wyo- 
ming Itoiiso.  Uorst^-Cara.  -  -On  ronn,  WyoiinuK.  and  Mndiuon  Aves. ;  and  to  the 
•uburbii  of  llydo  I'nric,  Providence,  Olyiumnt,  Uraenridgfl,  and  Dunmoru.  Rail- 
rtVKfs.  —  The  Del.,  Lwcli.  it  Wostorn,  to  N.  Y.,  140  M..  —  to  Oinghamton.  61  M. ; 
the  Lehiijh  k  8uM()uohnnnn,  to  Wilkcsbnrrti  HO  M.)an(l  PlUladelpnia,  102  M. ;  the 
Laokawiuum  &  Ulcmnisburg,  to  Nurthuinlivrmnd,  80  M. 

ScRANTON  is  a  large  nioiivm  city  occupying  the  plateau  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Roaring  Brook  and  tlio  Lackawanna  River.  It  is  handsomely  laid 
out  with  wide  straight  avenues,  but  presents  a  sombre  appearance  and 
has  long  and  straggling  suburbs.  It  has  35,092  inhabitants,  with  3  daily 
}>apers,  7  Itanks,  and  31  churc?v  <?  (of  which  5  are  Gorman  and  7  are 
Welsh).  Lackawanna  Ave.  is  the  chief  business  street,  and  has  several 
fine  commercial  buildings ;  and  Penn  and  Wyoming  Aves.  are  also  de- 
voted to  trade.  The  city  has  4  academies  ;  is  illuminated  by  gas  and  i*e- 
ceives  a  gooil  water-supply.  The  immense  railroad  round-house  is  one 
of  the  most  prominent  objects  on  the  plateau ;  about  which  extend  broad 
networks  of  tracks  and  large  workshops.  In  the  low  valleys  about  the 
plateau  are  large  manufacturing  works.  Forest  Hill  Cemetery  is  beyond 
the  suburb  of  Dunmore,  and  is  a  well-arranged  burying-ground  (reachetl 
by  the  Dunmore  horse-cars).  Pleasant  views  of  the  city  are  affoixled 
from  the  highlands  of  Dunmore  and  Hyde  Park.  From  the  N.  streets  of 
Scronton  are  seen  tlie  collieries  across  the  valley  of  Pine  Creek,  with 
their  connecting  railroads  and  great  mounds  of  coal-dust. 

The  Bite  of  Seranton  was  occupied  by  the  Slot'nni  farm  from  1708  to  1840,  when 
it  was  bought  by  George  and  Seldeu  buruuton,  who  erected  a  blast-fi\ruaco  here. 
In  1S44  they  stajrted  a  roUing-niill,  and  in  1S44  began  to  make  great  quantities  of 
T  raila.    In  1856  the  railroad  was  carried  through  firom  Qreat  Bend  to  the  Water 


RICHFIELD  SPRINGS.  Route  S5.      247 


Gnp ;  and  ifnce  that  day  the  placa  hai  grown  rapidly.  In  1866  it  was  mode  a 
o.^y.  Thora  wore  U  hnuHOH  h«ro  In  1810 ;  in  18&8  tliero  were  8,000  inliabitants  ; 
anil  in  1870  thero  woro  86 ,002  (many  of  wlioni  aro  foreiKneni).  The  DiclcRon  MTg 
Co.  liiiH  4 000,000  capital,  and  niakefi  locomotives  and  engineii ;  and  the  Mooaio 
Powder  Co.  ban  cxtniiHivo  workH.  Tlie  iron-worlo  form  a  weird  Might  by  iiifjht, 
when  tlio  chimiioyH  lioich  forth  great  shcctH  of  fire.  These  worlts  employ  1,200 
men  and  consume  100,000  tons  of  coal  yearly,  making  70,000  tons  of  iron.  The 
engines  are  of  colossal  dimensions,  and  are  worthy  of  inspection. 

The  train  runs  out  from  ScrantQn  to  the  N. ;  crosses  the  Lackawanna 
River  ;  and  passes  sevoral  great  coal-breakers.  Leaving  Providence  on 
the  r.,  it  passes  through  Leggett's  Gap,  in  the  Capouse  Mt.,  and  crosses 
the  productive  town  of  Abington.  FactwyvUle  is  a  thriving  mill-village, 
beyond  which  the  Tunkhannock  Mt.  is  again  approached.  The  line  now 
nms  N.  across  the  thinly  populated  county  uf  Susquehanna.  Montrose 
is  6  M.  S.  E.  of  the  village  of  the  same  name,  the  county  shire-town, 
which  is  connected  by  a  narrow-gauge  railroad  with  Tunkhannock.  The 
train  now  runs  N.  by  cold  and  arid  highlands  to  Oreat  Bend,  on  the 
Susc^uehanna  River  (see  page  225).  From  this  point  it  traverses  the 
broad  intervales  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  river  for  12  M.,  with  the  Erie 
Railway  on  the  opposite  shore ;  crosses  the  Susquehanna,  and  enters 
Binghamton  (see  page  226). 

The  Utica  Division, 

From  Binghamton  the  line  follows  the  Chenango  River  to  CThenango 
Forks,  whence  the  Utica  Division  diverges  to  the  N.  E.,  passing  across 
the  hilly  town  of  Greene  and  approaching  the  Midland  R.  R.  at  Oxford. 
Stations,  Norwich  and  Earlville,  see  page  216.  The  train  now  passes 
several  rural  stations  in  Madison  and  Oneida  Counties,  and  reaches  Utica 
in  95  M.  from  Binghamton. 

Biohfleld  Springs. 

Hotels.  —  *  Spring  House  (500  guests)  and  *  American  House,  each  $18-20  a 
week  :  National ;  Hosford's  ;  International ;  Davenport ;  Central ;  Derthiclc ;  tixB 
TuuDicIifr  Cottages  ;  and  several  first-class  boarding-houses  at  $10-13  a  week. 

Railroads.  —  From  Utica  (see  page  166)  in  35  M.,  and  from  Binghamton  in 
lO.'i  M.,  by  tlie  D.,  L.  &  W.  R.  R.  (branch  line  diverging  tnym  Cassville).  Stages  to 
bchuyler  Lake  every  30  min.  (in  summer),  and  4  times  daily  to  Otsego  Lake  (see 
page  324),  passing  tlic  Twin  Lakes,  and  connecting  with  the  lake-steamers ;  con- 
necting also  at  Sprlngflel  1  Centre  with  stages  for  Cherry  Valley  and  Sharon  Springs. 

Richfield  Springs  is  a  pleasant  village  of  Otsego  County,  with  4  churches, 
a  weekly  paper,  and  hotel  accommodations  for  2,500  guests.  It  is  situated 
in  a  rich  land  of  dairy-farms,  and  pleasant  views  are  enjoyed  from  the 
neighboring  hills  (especially  ifrom  Sunset  Hill,  3  M.  to  the  E.,  and  from 
Prospect  and  S.  View  Hills).  There  are  17  springs  near  the  village,  the 
favorite  of  which  is  on  the  Spring  House  groxmds,  near  Main  St.  The 
analysis  shows  in  each  gallon  30  grains  of  the  bi-carbonates  of  lime  and 
magnesia,  50  of  the  sulphates  of  lime  and  magnesia,  and  27  cnbic  inches 
of  sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas.    Like  most  sul^^hut  watert.,  these  are  at 


248     Route  SB. 


SCHUYLER  LAKE. 


I 


flnit  disagreeable  to  the  taste,  but  are  said  to  be  very  beneficial  in  amelio. 
rating  cutaneous  disorders.  It  is  28  M.  from  Richfield  to  Sharon  Springs, 
7  M.  to  Otsego  Lake,  and  12  M.  around  *  Sohnyler  Lake,  -which  is  1  M. 
from  the  village,  and  is  bordered  by  a  pleasant  drive.  The  lake  is  3^  M. 
long,  and  is  surrounded  by  sloping  hills,  the  chief  of  which  is  the  far- 
viewing  Oak  Ridge.  The  Lake  House  is  the  chief  of  the  lako-hotels,  and 
is  reached  by  way  of  Lake  St.  It  is  noted  for  its  fish  and  game  dinners, 
and  boats  are  furnished  to  visitors  vrho  wish  to  go  out  on  the  lake. 


The  main  line  runs  N.  from  Bingharaton,  and  diverges  from  the  Utica 
Division  at  Clicnango  Forks,  following  the  Tioughnioga  River  across  the 
towns  of  Barker  and  Lisle.  Passing  the  neat  villages  of  "Whitney's  Point 
and  Marathon,  it  crosses  the  Iiilly  region  of  Virgil,  and  stops  at  Cortland 
{Spcrry  House),  the  seat  of  a  large  State  Normal  School. .  The  village  has 
8,100  inliabitants,  8  churches,  and  3  papers,  and  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
the  Tioughnioga  River.  At  this  point  the  present  route  is  intersected  by 
the  Utica,  Ithaca  and  Elmira  R.  R.  and  a  branch  of  the  Midland  R.  R. 
The  train  runs  N.  by  the  flourisliing  village  of  Homer  {Patten  Hotel) 
and  the  Little  York  Lakes,  passes  Mt.  Toppin  and  the  Truxton  Hills, 
and  reaches  Tully,  near  the  Tully  Lakes.  10-12  M.  N.  W.  is  Otisco 
Lake  and  the  hamlet  of  Amber,  while  Glen  Haven  (on  Skaneateles  Lake) 
is  8-12  M.  W.  The  train  now  traverses  the  ridges  of  Fabius,  and  beyond 
Apulia  reaches  Lafayette. 

3  M.  W.  of  Jjafayette  is  the  obscure  hamlet  of  Cardiff,  famous  for  the  Cardiff 
Giant  hoax,  one  of  the  most  successlYil  hunibu^cs  of  the  past  decade.  A  gypsum 
statue  10|  ft.  long  was  found  buried  on  a  farm  in  this  place  (Oitt.  16,  1869),  and 
many  of  the  foremost  scientists  and  scholars  of  America  certified  that  it  was 
either  a  fossil  man  or  a  sculpture  of  great  antiquity.  It  was  exhibited  to  wonder- 
ing and  reverent  crowds  in  the  Atlantic  cities,  and  brought  lai-ge  reveniies  to  its 
proprietors ;  but  was  afterwards  discovered  to  have  bettn  quarried  in  Iowa  a  few 
jnonths  before,  carved  in  Chicago,  and  sent  East  and  buried  at  Carditf,  where  its 
inventor  soon  afterwards  resurrected  it. 

The  (ynondaiia  Reservation  is  N.  W.  of  Lafayette,  and  contains  6,100  acres,  on 
which  dwell  about  400  half-breeds  and  Indians,  the  remnant  of  the  sacerdotal 
tribe  of  the  Onondagas.  This  tribe  guarded  the  great  council-Ares  and  sacred 
places  of  the  Six  Nations,  and  were  a  peaceful  and  honored  people  (see  page  170). 
Jn  April,  1778,  658  soldiers  of  N.  Y.  fell  upon  the  Onondaga  towns  near  the  lake, 
killed  and  captured  many  of  the  inhabitants,  utterly  destroyed  all  the  villages 
and  supplies,  and  slaughtered  all  the  live  stock.  In  1788  the  tribe  ceded  all  its 
domain  to  the  State  except  100  square  M.,  and  by  the  Treaty  of  1822  the  dwindling 
nation  retired  to  its  present  limits. 

Beyond  Lafayette  the  train  reaches  Jamesville,  and  runs  thence  across 
the  Onondaga  Valley  to  Syracuse  (see  page  168).  From  that  city  the  line 
follows  the  W.  shore  of  Onondaga  Lake,  affording  views  of  the  suburbs 
of  Geddes  and  Salina  and  the  great  coal-depots  of  the  D.,  L.  &  W.  R.  R. 
Tlie  level  lands  near  the  lake  are  covered  with  the  vats  of  the  solar  salt- 
works. The  line  crosses  the  Seneca  River,  and  traverses  the  level  plains 
of  Lysander,  beyond  which  the  Oswego  River  is  followed  for  17  M.  to  the 
city  of  Oiwego  (see  page  217). 


BERGEN  POINT. 


HouU  S6.      249 


36.    New  Tork  to  Central  Pesiiiiylvaiiia  and  the  Weit 

The  Allentown  Line. 

By  the  Central  R.  R.  of  K.  J.  and  connecting  lines.  From  N.  T.  to  Easton  In 
8^  lirs. ;  to  Allentown,  4  hra.  ;  to  Uarrisburg,  7  hrs. ;  to  Pitts'/urgh.  17  bra. ;  to 
Cincinnati,  30  lira. ;  to  Chicago,  35  hra. 

Stations.  —  NeMir  York  ;  Jersey  City,  1  M.  r  Bergen  Point ;  Elizabeth,  12 ; 
BoscUc,  15  ;  Crawford,  17  :  WeHttleld,  19 ;  Fanwood,  22  :  Plaintield,  24  ;  Dunellen, 
27  ;  Bound  Brooic,  31 ;  Bonicrvillo,  86  ;  Raritan,  87  ;  North  Branch,  41 ;  White- 
house,  45 :  Lebanon,  50 ;  Annundule,  52  ;  High  Bridge.  54 ;  D.,  L.  &  W.  Junction, 
58  ;  Asbury,  01 ;  Vuiloy,  04  ,  Blooinsbury,  00  ;  Hpringtown,  09  ;  PhiUipsburg,  74 ; 
Kaston,  75.  Lehigh  Valley  It.  ii.,  —  Glendon,  77 :  Freeinansburg,  84;  Bethlehem, 
87  ;  ISust  Fenn.  Junction  (Allentown),  92.  E.  Penn.  R.R.,—  Eniaas,  98  ;  Millem- 
town,  102;  Alburtis,  104;  Shamrock,  107  ;  Topton,  110 ;  Lyons,  113;  Heetwood, 
117;  Blaitdon,  120;  Temple,  123;  Reading,  128;  Wemersville,  137;  Rotiesonia, 
141 ;  W'^melsaorf,  143  ;  Mverstown,  150  ;  Lebanon,  150 ;  AnnviUe,  101 ;  Palmyra, 
100;  Dcrry,  109;  Hummelstown,  173  ;  Beaver,  17r> ;  Uarrisburgh,  18  i;  Altoona, 
813 ;  Pittsburgh,  480  ;  Cincinnati,  743 ;  Chicago,  898  ;  St.  Louis,  1049. 

The  feriy-boat  leaves  the  foot  of  Liberty  St.,  N.  Y.,  and  crosses  the 
Hudson  River  to  the  terminal  station  of  the  Central  B.  B.  of  N.  J.,  S.  of 
Jersey  City.  The  train  passes  out  from  the  large  and  commodious  sta- 
tion and  runs  along  the  Bay  of  N.  Y.  to  Communipaw,  where  it  turns  to 
the  S.  W.  down  Bergen  Point,  with  the  Bay  on  the  1.  New  York  and 
>^  Brooklyn  are  seen  across  the  thronged  harbor;  and  between  Long  Island 
~;^  and  the  heights  of  Staten  Island  is  the  strongly  fortified  NarroAvs,  leading 
to  the  sea.  The  Newark  &  N.  Y.  K.  B.  diverges  from  the  main  line  at 
C-immunipaw,  and  runs  to  Newark  in  35  min.,  crossing  the  Hackensack 
and  Passaic  Bivers  and  the  Newark  Meadows.  Bergen  Point  is  a  nar- 
row and  ridgy  peninsula  between  Newark  and  N.  Y.  Bays,  and  has  many 
pretty  villas  pertaining  to  city  merchants.  At  Pamrapo  is  the  *  WiUoto 
Haven  House  (125  guests),  situated  in  a  willow  grove  facing  the  water, 
and  affording  facilities  for  bathing  and  boating.  Beyond  Bayonne  and 
Centreville  (which  is  near  the  great  coal-depot  of  Port  Johnston),  the 
train  runs  W.  near  the  Kill  Von  Kull,  with  Staten  Island  on  the  r.,  to 
Bergen  Point.  The  •  La  Toureite  House  (300  guests)  is  a  favorite  summer 
hotel  on  the  apex  of  the  point,  surrounded  by  trees  and  overlooking 
Staten  Island  and  the  Kill  Von  Kull  (30  min.  from  N.  Y.,  25-30 
trains  daily;  also  reached  by  horse-cars  from  Jersey  City,  and  by  steam* 
ers  from  Pier  14,  N.  R. ).  The  train  now  moves  out  over  Newark  Bay 
on  a  pile-bridge  IJ  M.  long,  with  the  city  of  Newark  and  the  Orange 
Mts.  on  the  r.  Elizabethport  is  an  important  coal  3hipping  point,  with  3 
steamers  daily  to  N.  Y. ;  and  a  large  fleet  of  coasting-vessels  transport 
coal,  iron,  and  lumber  thence  to  N.  Y.  and  Brooklyn.  Large  factories 
are  also  in  operation  here;  and  a  branch  R.  R.  runs  N.  to  Newark. 

The  Central  train  now  crosses  the  Penn.  R.  R.  in  the  city  of  Elizabeth 
(see  page  256),  and  passes  the  modern  suburban  villages  of  Roselle 
(Mansion  House)  and  Crawford,    The  Orange  Mts.  are  seen  on  the  r.  and 
11» 


250     JtouU  S6, 


PLAINFIELD. 


in  advance  as  the  station  of  Westfield  is  passed;  and  Fanwood  is  S.  E. 
of  the  rich  farm-lands  of  Scotch  Plains  (settled  by  the  Scotch  in  1684). 
Plainfield  ( City  Hotel)  is  a  city  of  5,095  inhabitants,  with  10  churches, 
and  niVTierous  hat-manulactories.  It  is  prettily  situated  near  Green 
Brook  and  at  the  foot  of  the  mt.,  and  overlooks  a  fertile  country.  In 
1838  a  railroad  was  built  hence  to  Elizabeth,  consisting  of  narrow  iron 
bands  fastened  to  wooden  logs,  and  a  man  was  employed  to  keep  the 
bands  nailed  down.  This  primitive  road  was  the  precursor  of  the  quad- 
ruple tracks  of  the  present  Central  R.  B.  Washington's  Rock  is  on  the 
mt.  2  M.  W.  of  Plauifield  (stages  run  to  the  summer  hotel  near  by),  and 
was  often  resorted  to  by  Gen.  Washington  in  order  to  watch,  nfith  his 
telescope,  the  movements  of  the  British  army  and  fleets. 

"  The  scene  is  one  of  ancoramon  beauty.  On  the  1.  appear  the  spires  of  N. 
T.  City,  part  of  the  bay,  Newurk,  Elizabethtown,  Bahway,  and  Staten  Island. 
Directly  in  front  are  Amboy  and  Baritan  Bays.  To  the  r.  are  New  Brunswick 
and  the  heights  of  Princeton  and  Trenton  :  and  far  to  the  S.  K  the  eye  atretchos 
over  the  plains  of  Monmouth  to  the  heights  of  Navesink.  Beautiful  villages  be- 
deck the  plain ;  and  cultivated  fields,  farm-houses,  and  niuuerous  groves  of  ver- 
dant trees  are  spread  around  in  pleasing  confusion." 

After  leaving  Plainfield  the  Washington  Bock  and  its  hotel  are  seen  on 
the  r.,  and  the  train  skirts  the  mts.,  passing  Dunellen  and  Green  Brook. 
Bound  Brook  (Bound  Brook  Hotel)  is  a  small  hamlet  on  tlie  Baritan 
Biver,  whence  daily  stages  run  S.  K  along  the  river  to  New  Brunswick; 
and  also  N.  through  the  mts.  to  Basking  Bidge.  The  Chimney  Rock  is  2 
M.  from  Bound  Brook,  and  is  a  pyramidal  stone  15  -  20  ft.  high,  rising 
from  a  cliff  100  ft.  in  height.  The  Americans  were  defeated  at  Bound 
Brook  in  1777  by  Lord  Comwallis,  and  to  the  N.  and  W.  the  Continental 
army  was  encamped  during  the  winter  of  1778  -  79.  The  line  now  crosses 
Green  Brook  on  an  iron  bridge,  and  reaches  Somerville  (2  inns),  the  capi- 
tal of  Somerset  County,  a  pleasant  village  of  2,236  inhabitants.  It  b  as  a 
lai^e  country-trade  ;  and  the  mt.  scenery  to  the  N.  is  attractive. 

The  Baritan  Valley  was  the  home  of  the  Naraticong  Indians,  and  was  settled 
in  1670  by  Huguenots  tvom  Holland  and  France.  The  South  Branch  B.  B.  runs 
16  M.  S.  W.  from  Somerville,  through  a  rich  farming  and  peach-raising  country, 
to  FJemlUKton  (County  Hotel ;  Union).  This  village  is  pleasantly  situated  on 
an  undulating  plain,  and  is  the  capital  of  Hunterdon  County.  A  branch  B.  B. 
rund  hence  12  M.  S.  W.  to  Lambertville,  on  the  Belvidere  PeL  B.  B. 

Stations,  Raritan,  with  several  factories ;  iV.  Branch,  from  which  the 
distant  hamlets  of  Coatesburg  and  Mechanicsville  are  seen ;  and  White- 
house,  with  Pickle's  Mt.  close  at  hand  on  the  1.  This  district  is  devoted 
principally  to  stock-raising.  Daily  stages  leave  Wbicehouse  for  Potters- 
ville.  The  grade  now  rises  along  the  ridge,  and  the  train  passes  Lebano)i 
and  Annandale,  in  a  land  that  is  prolific  in  peaches.  At  High  Bridge  tlie 
S.  Branch  of  the  Baritan  is  crossed  on  a  great  embankment  occupying  the 
site  of  a  bridge  1,300  ft.  long  and  106  ft.  high.  There  are  iron-works 
here,  and  also  at  Glen  Gardner,  the  next  station.    The  train  now  meets 


EASTON. 


JtauteSe,     251 


the  Del.,  Lack.  &  Westeni  B.  B.  at  the  Junction,  and  nins  S.  W.  down 
the  Musconetcong  Valley,  with  the  Mnsconetcong  Mta.  on  the  1.,  and  the 
Pohatcong  Mts.  on  the  r.  The  scenery  is  graceful,  and  the  Blue  Mta. 
hegin  to  appear.  Beyond  Ashury  (village  1  M.  N.),  Valley  (1  M.  S.  of 
the  track),  and  Bloomsbury,  the  Pohatccng  Mt.  is  crossed.  Passing  the 
stock-raising  district  of  Springtown  and  the  hamlet  of  Greenwich,  the 
train  descends  to  Phillipsburg  (Reese's ;  Lee's  Hotel),  a  busy  manufac- 
turing town  situated  on  a  high  bluff  over  the  Delaware  Biver  and  opposite  ' 
the  borough  of  Easton.  It  has  over  5,000  inhabitants,  and  is  notable  for 
its  iron-works,  for  whose  use  great  quantities  of  magnetic  ore,  hematite, 
and  limestone  are  found  in  the  vicinity.  The  Morris  Canal  terminates 
here,  and  its  boats  reach  the  river  level  by  an  inclined  plane,  and  cross  to 
enter  the  I<ehigh  Canal  (for  the  coal-mines)  or  the  Del.  Division  Canal 
(for  Philadelphia).  Bold  and  picturesque  hills  surround  this  place,  and 
the  borough  of  Easton  is  overlooked,  with  its  heights  crowned  by  the 
tall  buildings  of  Lafayette  College.  The  Belvidere  Delaware  and  the 
Morris  &  Essex  B.  Bs.  meet  the  Centi-al  B.  B.  of  N.  J.  at  Phillipsburg, 
and  2  fine  B.  B,.  bridges  cross  to  Ear«ton  and  the  Lehigh  B.  B.  lines. 

Easton  (U.  S.  Hotel;  Franklin  House),  the  capital  of  Northampton 
County,  is  a  large  and  thriving  borough  at  the  confluence  of  the  Delaware 
and  Lehigh  Bivers  and  Bushkill  Creek.  It  is  picturesquely  situated  on 
and  about  a  cluster  of  steep  hills,  and  commands  pleasing  views  of  the 
neighboring  mts.  The  heights  are  lined  with  fine  modem  villas,  and  the 
stately  buildings  of  Lafayette  College  loom  conspicuously  over  the  pop- 
ulous valley  The  borough  has  12,000  inhabitants,  18  churches,  a  costly 
Opera-House,  2  daily  and  4  weekly  papers,  and  4  banks.  The  Circle  is  a 
fountaiU'adomed  public  green  in  the  centre  of  the  borough,  and  near  the 
Opera-House.  On  the  heights  over  the  Lehigh  is  a  quaint  Catholic  Church ; 
and  farther  back  on  the  plateau  is  the  Court  House  (with  a  Corinthian 
portico),  and  the  County  Prison,  a  low,  massive,  and  picturesque  building. 
On  the  E.  slope  of  the  hill  is  the  Lutheran  Church,  with  its  heavy  and 
disproportionate  tower;  also  the  new  and  costly  borough  school,  having  a 
singular  and  lofty  roof.  There  are  several  neat  churches  in  the  lower 
town. 

Lafayette  College  was  founded  in  1826,  and  is  richly  endowed.  "  It 
is  designed  to  make  the  Bible  the  central  object  of  study  in  the  whole 
college  course  "  ;  and  while  the  classical  course  is  similar  in  scope  to  that 
of  other  colleges,  the  student  (in  the  first  2  years)  is  given  his  choice  be- 
tween Christian  and  Pagan  authors  as  follows  :  in  Latin,  TertuUian  and' 
Cyprian  or  Livy,  Latin  Bible  and  hymns  or  Horace,  Augustine  or  Cicero; 
in  Greek,  Eusebius  and  Justin  Martyr  or  Xenophon  and  Herodotus,  Athena- 
goras  and  Greek  hymns  or  Homer.  The  Scientific  Department  is  divided 
into  several  technical  schools,  with  costly  apparatus,  and  is  applied  prao* 


^1 


I  i 


h  I 


252     Itmite  S6. 


EASTON. 


tically  by  fleld-works  among  the  great  iron  and  coal  mines  and  railroad 
and  canal  bridgen  and  grades  in  the  vicinity.  The  college  has  22  pro- 
fessors, 2  lecturers,  and  6  tutors,  with  836  students.  The  buildings  are 
situated  on  Mt.  Lafayette,  which  looks  down  on  Easton,  and  is  separated 
from  it  by  Bushkiil  Creek.  The  steep  side  of  the  hill  is  ascended  by  a 
substantial  stone  stairway,  near  whose  summit  is  a  monument  surmounted 
by  a  statue  of  a  soldier,  and  inscribed  with  the  names  of  the  alumni  who  fell 
in  the  civil  war.  Near  this  point  is  the  oldest  of  the  college  halls,  fronted 
by  a  belfry-tower,  and  extended  by  two  modem  wings.  The  Physical 
Hall  is  below  (on  the  r. ),  and  farther  up  is  the  Observatory.  The  Blair, 
Newkirk,  Powell,  Martien,  and  McKeen  Halls  are  N.  of  the  campus. 
*  Pardee  Hall  is  a  stately  building  of  Trenton  brown-stone  (256  ft.  long, 
and  5  stories  high)  which  is  devoted  to  the  Scientific  Schools.  Extensive 
laboratories,  model-rooms,  and  cabinets  are  found  here,  together  with  a 
fine  lecture-hall.  On  the  lower  floor  is  a  large  model,  with  miniature 
steam  machinery  and  puppet  miners,  showing  all  the  processes  of  coal- 
mining, hoisting,  breaking,  and  loading. .  The  view  from  the  towers  includes 
many  miles  of  the  Delaware  and  Lehigh  valleys,  with  the  surrounding 
mts.  This  building  was  completed  in  October,  1873  (at  a  cost  of  $  200,000), 
and  was  presented  to  the  college  by  Mr.  Pardee  of  Hazletou. 

The  site  of  Easton  was  at  the  famous  Indian  council-ground  known  as  the  Forks 
of  the  Delaware ;  and  the  borough  was  laid  out  in  17U8,  and  named  in  honor  of 
an  English  noble  whose  country  estate  was  called  Easton.  Hundreds  of  Indians 
were  ^quently  assembled  here  in  great  conferences  with  the  colonial  authorities, 
and  here  were  delivered  the  orations  of  Toedyuscung,  chief  of  the  Delawares. 
Easton  is  the  wealthiest  place  of  its  size  in  the  State,  and  has  large  manufactories  ; 
while  the  surrounding  country  abounds  in  iron  and  limestone,  and  is,  moreover, 
in  a  state  of  high  ciUtivation.  The  long  iron  bridge  of  the  Lehigh  &  Susque- 
hanna B.  R.  is  worthy  of  examination.  Mt.  Jefferson  rises  abruptly  in  the  centra 
of  the  borough  ;  and  Chestnut  Hill  (1  M.  N.)  is  surmounted  by  the  singular  rock 
called  St.  Anthony's  Nose,  trom  whose  vicinity  a  broad  and  pleasing  view  is  ob- 
tained.   Durham  Cave  is  near  Easton,  and  is  much  visited. 

Horae-cars  run  to  S.  Easton  and  to  Phillipsbnig.  The  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.  con- 
ducts to  Mauch  Chunk  (46  M.).  Wilkesbarre  (100  M.),  and  Waverly,  N.  Y  (200  M.) ; 
the  Lehigh  &  Susquehanna  R.  B.  to  Scranton  (118  M.) ;  the  Central  R.  R.  of  N.  J. 
to  New  York  (75  M.) ;  the  Belvidere  Del.  Division  of  tlie  Penn.  R.  R.  (from  Phil- 
lipsburg)to  Philadelphia  (81  M.)and  the  Delaware  Water  Gap  (27  M.);  and  the 
Morris  &  Essex  R.  R.  to  New  York  (85  M.).  Stacfea  run  from  Easton  to  Portland 
and  Mt.  Bethel  daily,  also  to  Nazareth ;  and  to  Tuckerton  tri-weekly. 

From  Easton  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  E.  runs  S.  W.,  near  the  river,  the 
canal,  and  the  Lehigh  &  Susquehanna  B.  R.  At  Olendon  are  seen  the 
great  works  of  the  Olendon  Iron  Co.,  and  the  chain  dam  which  supplies 
water-power  to  S.  Easton.  Beyond  the  vineyards  of  Hope  the  Lehigh 
Mts.  are  approached,  and  the  line  passes  Freemansburg,  where  miny 
canal-boats  are  built.  The  Lehigh  University  is  seen  on  the  high  ridge 
to  the  1.  as  the  train  reaches  S.  Bethlehem,  and  on  the  r.  is  the  quaint  old 
borough  of  Bethlehem  (see  page  301 ).  5  M.  beyond  the  train  tunis  to 
the  S.  W.  at  the  East  Penn.  Junction,  with  the  city  of  Allentown  visible 
on  the  r. 


LEBANON. 


noute  36,      253 


where  many 


The  E.  Penn.  train  ascends  the  valley  of  the  Little  Lehigh,  between  the 
Blue  and  the  South  Mts.,  through  a  fertile  liiuestone  country  which  is  pop- 
ulated by  the  descendants  of  the  early  Germanic  immigrations.  Station, 
Mmaua  (small  inn),  an  ancient  Moravian  village  on  a  single  street  at  th« 
foot  of  South  Mt.,  and  near  the  works  of  the  Emaus  Iron  Co.  This  place 
was  settled  in  1739  by  the  Germans,  and  was  named  Macungie.  In  1741 
2  Moravian  missionaries  were  sent  here  "  to  preach  tl»e  gospel  to  every 
one,"  and  Count  Zinzendorf  followed  them,  insomuch  that  a  new  church 
was  formed  here,  and  the  place  was  named  Emaus.  Beyond  Millerstown 
the  train  reaches  Alburtis,  near  the  Lock  Ridge  Furnaces,  which  were 
founded  in  1866,  and  turn  out  10,000  tons  of  fine  pig-iron  yearly.  Great 
deposits  of  hematite  are  found  in  the  adjacent  hills,  to  which  a  branch 
track  is  laid.  The  Catasauqua  &  Foglesville  R.  R.  runs  N.  to  Catasauqua, 
on  the  Lehigh  River.  The  line  now  enters  the  rich  agricultural  county  of 
Berks,  and  runs  S.  W.  by  Shamrock  to  Topton,  whence  a  branch  line  runs 
to  Kutztawn,  4^  M.  W.,  an  old  hamlet  in  a  rich  rural  district,  and  the 
seat  of  the  Keystone  State  Normal  School.  Lyonf  {Lyons  H(mse; 
American)  is  a  small  place  which  receives  many  summer  visitors.  The 
train  passes  thence  down  a  fine  champaign  country,  with  the  Blue  Ridge 
on  the  r.,  by  several  rural  hamlets,  intersects  the  Phila.  &  Reading  R.  R. 
in  the  heart  of  the  city  of  Beading  (see  Route  47),  crosses  the  Schuylkill 
River  and  the  Union  Canal,  and  runs  S.  W.  by  Sinking  Spring^  near 
which  the  Reading  &  Columbia  R.  R.  diverges  to  the  1.  Tlie  mts.  of 
Heidelberg  are  now  traversed,  and  beyond  the  iron-furnaces  at  Robesonia 
the  train  reaches  Womelsdorf,  a  large  and  prosperous  German  borough^ 
situated  in  a  fertile  limestone  valley.  Near  this  place,  and  at  the  foot  of 
the  S.  ridge,  is  the  summer  hotel  called  the  South  Mt.  House  (stages  from 
the  station).  As  the  train  passes  out  by  Sheridan,  the  Blue  Ridge  is  seen 
on  the  r.,  10  M.  away  across  the  plains  of  Tulpehocken  and  BetheL 
Myerstovm  (2  inns)  is  a  thriving  village,  distinguished  as  the  seat  of  the 
Palatinate  College,  an  institution  of  the  German  Reformed  Church.  The 
train  now  reaches  Lebanon  {Eagle  Hotel),  th'3  capital  of  Lebanon  County, 
a  borough  of  6,727  inhabitants,  situated  in  a  fine  limestone  valley  on  the 
Quitapahilla  Creek.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  and  has  substantial  buildings 
of  stone  and  brick.  The  borough  is  nearly  midway  betweer  Reading  and 
Harrisburg,  and  its  population  is  nearly  all  German- American. 

The  N.  Lebanon  R.  R.  runs  7  M.  S.  to  the  Cornwall  Ore  Banks,  situated  in 
Grassy  and  Big  Hills,  the  latter  of  which  contains  40,000,000  tons  of  iron  ore, 
yielding  70  per  cent  of  pure  iron.  There  are  several  large  furnaces,  making  vast 
amounts  of  pig-iron,  and  veins  of  copper  are  found  in  the  vicinity.  6  M.  from 
Lebanon,  and  near  the  Swatara  River,  are  valuable  quarries  of  gray  marble.  The 
Lebanon  &  Tremont  R.  R.  runs  N.  31  M.  to  Tremont,  entering  the  defiles  of  tho 
Blue  Mts.  at  Swatara  Gap,  and  crossing  the  Schuylkill  &  Susqueluuma  R.  R.  at 
Pint  Grove.  * 


254     RmUeSr,    NEW  YORK  TO  PHILADELPHIA. 

5  M.  beyond  Lebanon  the  train  passes  Annville,  the  seat  of  the  Lebanon 
Valley  College,  a  Moravian  institution  with  7  professors  and  153  students. 
The  line  now  traverses  a  land  of  fertility  and  promise,  dotted  with  quaint 
old  fanr -houses,  near  ^vhich  are  the  immense  and  linely  constructed  bams 
which  attest  the  thrift  and  wealth  of  the  descendants  of  the  early  Gkrman 
immigrants.  Den-y  (2  inns)  has  an  ancient  and  embowered  colonial 
church;  and  Uummelatovm  is  a  thrifty  farm-centre,  1  M.  S.  of  which  is  a 
remarkable  cavern,  whose  inner  chamber  is  4  M.  long  and  abounds  in 
fantastic  stalactites.  The  train  now  crosses  the  Swatara  River  and  the 
Union  Canal,  and  inins  W.  to  Hanisburg,  the  capital  of  Pennsylvania. 

Harriibnrg,  and  the  Penn.  R.  R.  to  the  R  and  W.  (Altoona,  Pitts- 
burgh, and  Cincinnati),  see  Route  60.  The  Northern  Central  R.  R.,  to 
Gettysbitrg  and  Baltimore  or  to  Williamsport  and  Elmira,  see  Route 

37.  New  York  to  Philadelphia. 

By  the  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  (N.  Y.  Division)  in  8-4  hrs.  This  is  a  portion  of 
the  great  national  route  from  New  England  and  New  York  to  Baltimore,  Wash- 
ington, and  the  S.  Atlantic  States.  It  is  also  a  part  of  the  route  to  the  Western 
States,  by  way  of  Pittsburgh,  from  which  direction  vast  quantities  of  freight  are 
brought  E.  to  N.  Y.  Harbor,  where  the  Penn.  B.  R.  is  now  build|pg  adequate  and 
capacious  freight-depots,  on  the  shores  of  the  Hudson  at  Jei-sey  City.  The  line 
traverses  the  most  wealthy  and  populous  parts  of  the  State  of  New  Jersey,  and 
scarcely  leaves  the  remoter  suburban  villages  whicli  depend  on  New  York  before 
it  enters  the  outer  lines  of  the  broad  environs  of  Philadelphia.  Fares,  New  York 
to  Newark,  20c.;  to  Perth  Amboy,  50c.;  to  Trenton,  9 1.40 ;  to  Philadelphia,  #3.26. 

Statloim.  —  New  York;  Jersey  City,  1  M.;  Marion,  ^  M.;  E.  Newark,  8; 
Newark,  9-104;  Waverley,  12;  N.  Elizabeth,  13^;  Elizabeth,  14* ;  Linden,  18; 
Bahway,  20  (branch  to  Perth  Amboy,  28) ;  Houtenville,  22  ;  Uninntown,  23 ; 
Henlo  Park,  24* ;  Metuchen,  26^  ;  Stelton,  29^ ;  New  Brunswick,  3U  (branch  to 
Millstone,  40)  ;  Deans,  39  ;  Monmouth  Junction,  41^  (intersection  of  the  Amboy 
Division) ;  Plainsboro',  46 ;  Princeton  Junction,  87^  (branch  to  Princeton,  40^) ; 
Lawrence,  51J  ;  Trenton,  67  :  8.  Trenton,  68  ;  Morrisville,  68J  ;  Penn  Valley,  61 ; 
Tullytown,  63^  ;  Bristol,  67J  ;  Schenck's,  704 ;  Eddington,  71* ;  Comwell's,  73 ; 
Andalusia.  74^ ;  Borie's,  74 ;  Torresdale,  76 ;  Pennypack,  77 ;  Holinesburg  Junc- 
tion, 774  (branch  to  Bustleton,  82) ;  Tacony,  784  ;  Wissinoming,  794 ;  Bridesburg, 
80* ;  Frankford  Junction,  814  (branch  to  Kensington,  84) ;  Germantown  Junction, 
864 :  Mantua,  884 :  W.  Philadelphia,  90. 

Passengers  leave  New  York  by  ferry-boat  from  the  foot  of  Cortlandt  St., 
or  of  Desbrosses  St.,  and  are  landed  at  the  terminal  station  of  the  Penn. 
R  R.  in  Jersey  City.  The  train  runs  through  the  streets  on  ascending 
grades,  and  soon  enters  the  Bergen  Cut,  a  deep  rock-cutting  in  Bergen 
lTeight.«i.  Emeiging  on  the  Hackensack  meadows,  the  great  factory  of 
the  U.  S.  Watch  Company  and  the  St.  James  Hotel  are  seen  on  the  1.,  at 
Marion,  and  the  line  crosses  the  Hackensack  River  and  the  meadows  of 
Kearney,  with  the  Morris  &  Essex  R.  R.  on  the  r.,  and  the  Passaic 
River  on  the  1.    Beyond  the  Passaic  the  train  enters  the  city  of 

Newark. 

Hotels*— *  Continental.  Broad  St.,  near  the  M.  and  E.  station,  $3  a  day; 
Park  Hotel ;  Newark  House. 


NEWARK, 


H&ute  37.      255 


Lebanon 
students, 
th  quaint 
ted  barns 
^Gknnan 
i  colonial 
nrhicli  is  a 
sounds  in 
r  and  the 
lylvania. 
ana,  Pitts- 
l  R.  B.,  to 
ECoutd 


I  portion  of 
more,  Wwh- 
the  Western 
if  freight  are 
^equate  and 
;y.    The  line 
f  Jersey,  and 
r  York  before 
M,  New  York 
3lphia,#3.26. 

Newark,  8; 

Linden,  18 ; 
ontown,  23; 
(branch  to 

the  Amboy 
nceton,  40i); 
n  Valley,  61 ; 
)mweir8,  73 ; 

esbuTg  Junc- 

;  Bridesburg, 
iwn  Junction, 

Dttlandt  St., 
)f  the  Penn. 
jn  ascending 
_  in  Bergen 
t  factory  of 

on  the  1.,  at 
meadows  of 

the  Passaic 

of 


on.  $8  a  day ; 


B««dliig^Rooina«  — The  Newark  Library  Association,  147  Market  St.,  open 
fh>m  10  A.  M.  to  10  p.  M.  :  the  N.  J.  Historical  Society,  comer  of  Broad  and  Bank 
Sts.,  open  from  0  to  5 ;  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  Washington  Park,  near  Broad  St.,  ojien 
from  8  A.  M.  to  10  p.  M. 

Horse-Cars — to  Orange  (white  light),  every  10  min.,  on  Market,  Broorl,  and 
Orange  Sts.  ;  to  Bellovi^ie  (^Tcen  light),  every  20  inin.,  on  Market  and  Broad  Sts., 
and  Belleville  Ave.  ;  t»)  Mt.  Pleasant  Cemetery  and  Woodslde  (red  light),  oa  Broad 
St.  and  Clinton  and  Bellcvil'o  Aves.  ;  to  Irvlnrfton  (yellow  light) ;  to  Elizal)cth 
(blue  light)  ;  and  out  Market  St.  to  Ferry.  Stages  run  to  Jersey  City  on  Sundays 
7  times.    Steamers  to  New  York  semi-daily. 

Railroads.  -The  Penn.  R.  R.  to  N.  Y.  or  Philadelphia  ;  the  Morris  &  Essex, 
to  N.  Y.  or  Easton  ;  the  N.  Y.  &  Newark,  to  N.  Y.  in  85  min.  :  the  Paterson  & 
Newark,  to  Paterson  in  11  M. ;  and  the  Newark  &  Bloomfleld  and  Montclair. 

Newark,  the  chief  city  of  the  State  of  New  Jersey,  and  the  capital  of 
Sussex  County,  is  well  situated  on  an  elevated  plain  on  the  r.  bank  of  the 
Passaic  River,  9  M.  from  New  York,  and  4  M.  from  Newark  Ba^.  It  has 
105,059  inhabitants  (census  of  1870),  with  93  churches  (14  German,  5 
African,  ?>  synagogues),  11  banks,  and  4  daily  and  5  weekly  papers. 
There  are  large  manufactories  of  india-rubl>er  goods,  carriages,  leather, 
boots  and  shoes,  paper,  and  machinery.  The  jewelry-manufacture  is 
developed  to  a  great  magnitude ;  and  the  Clark  Thread  Company  em- 
ploys 750  girls.  Many  thousand  barrels  of  lager-bier  are  made  here 
yearly,  and  the  enormous  Passaic  Flour-Mills  (S.  of  the  R.  R.  bridge) 
turn  out  2,000  barrels  of  flour  daily.  The  building  is  12  stories  (156  ft.) 
high  ;  has  2  acres  of  flooring,  and  a  capacity  for  storing  760,000  bushels 
of  grain ;  is  served  by  2  600-horse-power  engines,  and  is  the  largest  flour- 
mill  in  the  world.  The  brown-stone  quarries  near  the  city  are  extensively 
drawn  upon  for  building  material  for  New  York. 

Broad  St.  is  the  chief  thoroughfare  of  Newark,  and  is  the  seat  of  its 
business  houses.  It  is  a  noble  avenue  of  120  ft.  in  width,  and  runs  N. 
and  S.  through  the  centre  of  the  city.  It  is  well  shaded,  and  is  traversed 
by  several  horse-car  lines.  Washington  Park  and  th&  Military  Park  are 
pleasant  squares  on  the  line  of  Broad  St.,  containing  grotQs  of  lofty  and 
graceful  elms,  and  surrounded  by  fine  buildings.  The  ancient  Trinity 
Church  is  on  the  Military  Park.  The  U.  S.  Chistom  House  and  Post- 
Oflftce  is  a  fine  building  at  the  corner  of  Broad  and  Academy  Sts.,  and  the 
C!ity  Hall  (corner  of  Broad  and  William  Sts.)  is  worthy  of  notice.  Market 
St.  crosses  Broad  St.  at  right  angles  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  and  runs  from 
the  vicinity  of  the  Penn.  R.  R.  station  W.  to  the  Court  House,  a  massive 
sandstone  building  in  i^yptian  architecture.  The  Library  Association 
building  is  noticeable  for  its  adaptability  to  its  present  use,  and  contains 
over  20,000  volumes.  Just  beyond  the  Court  House  is  the  new  and  im- 
finished,  but  finely  conceived  Episcopal  Church  of  St.  Paul.  The  build- 
ing of  the  Mutual  Benefit  Life  Ins.  Co.  is  said  to  be  the  finest  in  the  State, 
and  the  Newark  Academy  (on  High  St. )  has  a  lai^  brick  edifice  in  grounds 
which  overlook  the  Passaic  Valley.    At  the  comer  of  High  St.  and  Cen? 


256      Route  37. 


ELIZABETH. 


tral  Ave.  is  St.  Michael's  Hospital,  near  which  is  the  Catholic  Cathedral 
On  the  comer  of  High  and  William  Sts.  is  St.  Benedict's  Priory  and  Col- 
lege, and  the  High  St.  Presbyterian  Church  is  a  massive  and  elegant  little 
brown-stone  structure,  with  a  Saxon  tower  and  a  clere-storj'.  The  Church 
of  the  House  of  Prayer  (Epis.;  comer  of  State  and  Broad  Sts.)  is  worthy 
of  notice ;  also  the  craciform  Church  of  the  Redeemer,  with  its  dainty 
portal ;  the  ornate  Clinton  Ave.  Reformed  Church  ;  St.  Paul's  M.  E. 
Church,  with  minarets  and  lofty  windows  ;  and  the  ivy-mantled  and 
sparrow-haunted  old  church  at  the  comer  of  Broad  and  Walnut  Sts. 

Mount  Pleasant  Cemetery  in  an  attractive  ('round  of  35  aci-es  N.  of  the 
city,  with  line  uveuues  and  luiduluting  hills.  The  drives  in  the  vicinity  of  New- 
ark are  very  pleasant,  — the  best  being  those  to  Orange,  the  city^f  villas,  3  M. 
N.  W.,  and^  along  the  banl^s  of  the  Passaic,  where  may  be  seen  many  fine  man- 
sions, including  "  The  Cedars,"  where  Henry  William  Herbert  ("  Franlt  Forrester") 
lived  in  seclusion,  and  Ktm-ny  Place,  the  former  home  of  Gen.  Philip  Kearny,  who 
was  bom  at  N.  Y.  City  in  1815  ;  Avon  the  cross  of  the  Legion  of  Honor  in  the 
Franco-Algerian  War  (1840),  and  again  at  Solferino,  in  1869  ;  lost  his  left  arm  in 
the  attacic  on  the  San  Antonio  Gate  of  the  city  of  Mexico  (1847) ;  won  the  battle 
of  Williamsburg,  Va.,  in  ISO'J  ;  and  was  killed  while  fighting  at  the  head  of  his 
division  in  the  battle  of  Cliantilly,  Va.,  Sept.  1,  1862.  Across  the  river  from 
Kearny  Place  is  the  old  mansion  which  has  been  celebrated  by  Irving  under  the 
name  of  "  Cockloft  Hall "  (in  the  Salmagundi  i)apers). 

In  1665  the  colonies  of  Hartford  and  New  Haven  were  united.  The  men  of 
Branford  had  steadily  opposed  this  union,  and  after  its  consummation  they  moved 
away  in  a  body,  headed  by  their  pastor,  and  carrying  their  families  and  household 
goods.  In  1666  they  founded  Newark,  laying  out  the  bn)ad  streets  which  are  now 
tiie  pride  of  the  city.  The  land  was  bought  from  the  Hackensack  Indians  with 
£130,  12  blankets,  and  12  guns.  No  one  was  admitted  as  a  f^eman,  voter,  or 
officer  of  any  sort  unless  he  was  a  Congregational  church-member ;  and  the  church 
was  fortified  against  the  Indians  in  1676.  By  1682  Newark  had  become  famous  for 
its  cider.  In  1745  -  46  great  riots  took  place  here  in  consequence  of  attempts  of 
the  English  grantees  of  East  Jersey  to  invalidate  the  titles  of  the  Puritans  to  their 
lands.  The  College  of  New  Jersey  was  located  here  1747  -  55,  and  the  Newark 
Academy  was  founded  in  1792.  The  tovm  was  occupied  by  the  British  in  1777, 
and  was  sacked,  plundered,  and  nearly  destroyed.  The  population  in  1780  was 
1,000 ;  in  1830,  10,950  ;  in  1840,  17,290  ;  in  1860,  71,941 ;  and  in  1870,  105,059. 

The  train  rans  S.  W.  through  the  city  and  passes  on  to  Waverley,  near 
Weequahick  Ijake;  3  M.  beyond  which  it  reaches  EliBabeth  {Sheridan 
Hmse),  a  city  of  about  25,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  elevated  ground  3  M. 
from  Newark  Bay.  It  is  called  the  handsomest  city  in  the  State,  and  is 
laid  out  with  broad  streets  crossing  each  other  at  right  angles,  well  shaded, 
and  lined  with  bright,  spacious,  and  widely  detached  villas.  It  is  famed 
for  a  wealthy  and  cultured  society,  and  for  fine  educational  facilities;  and 
its  growth  has  been  rapid  and  healthy.  Elizabeth  is  principally  known 
as  a  residence-city  for  business-men  of  New  York,  to  which  run  50-60 
trains  daily  in  37-50  min.  (over  the  N.  J.  Central  or  the  Penn.  R.  R., 
which  intersect  near  the  centre  of  the  city). 

In  1665  Gov.  Carteret  crossed  the  Atlantic  and  bought  of  the  Indians  the  present 
site  of  the  city,  founding  here  a  colony  which  he  named  Elizabeth,  in  honor  of 
Lady  Elizabeth,  wife  of  Sir  George  Carteret  (proprietor  of  East  Jersey).  The 
country  was  rapidly  settled,  and  the  predominant  influence  was  that  of  the  Puri- 
tans (as  shown  in  the  old  colonial  laws).    Thenceforward  for  many  years  Eliza^ 


NEW  BRUNSWICK. 


HouU  37.      207 


!athedraL 
and  Col- 
{ant  little 
le  Church 
is  worthy 
Its  dainty 
I'a  M.  E. 
itled  and 
Sts. 

is  N.  of  the 
Ity  of  New- 
villas,  3  M. 
y  fine  man- 
Forrester  ") 
iearny,  who 
onor  in  the 
left  arm  in 
n  the  battle 
head  of  his 
)  river  from 
g  under  the 

The  men  of 
I  they  moved 
id  liousehold 
lich  are  now 
ndiana  with 
an,  voter,  or 
d  the  church 
le  famous  for 
attempts  of 
Itans  to  their 
the  Newark 
tlsh  in  1777, 
in  1780  was 
105,059. 

verley,  near 
I  {Sheridan 
ground  3  M. 
itate,  and  is 
well  shaded, 

It  is  famed 
cilities;  and 
jally  known 

run  50-60 
'enn.  R.  R"> 

as  the  present 
,  in  honor  of 
Jersey).  The 
t  of  the  Puri- 
^  years  Elia- 


:ff? 


•   rf. 


V'i 


bethtown  was  the  oapltal  of  East  Jersey :  and  during  the  Revolutionary  War  it 
was  freqiieutly  raided  by  the  British  and  occupied  by  the  Continental  iorces.  It 
was  the  residence  of  Uov.  Livingston,  and  gave  freely  of  its  young  men  to  the 
national  army. 

As  the  train  leaves  the  intersection  of  the  railroads  and  passes  S.,  the 
broad  avenue  called  the  Bay  Way  is  seen  on  the  1.,  running  to  the  water- 
side. Bahway  (De  Qraufa;  Chamberlain  House)  is  a  city  of  6,258  in- 
habitants, situated  on  the  Rahway  River  at  the  head  of  schooner-naviga- 
tion and  4  M.  from  Stnien  Island  Sound.  It  has  10  churches  and  several 
small  parks,  with  2  academies ;.  and  is  famous  for  its  great  carriage-fac- 
tories and  other  manufacturing  industries.  Tliis  city  was  settled  in  1720, 
and  was  named  in  honor  of  Rahwack,  the  Indian  Sachem  who  owned  its 
site.  A  branch  R.  R.  runs  9  M.  S.  from  Rahway  across  the  populous 
town  of  Woodbridge  to  the  ancient  city  of  Perth  Amboy,  which  is  situ- 
ated at  the  confluence  of  the  Raritan  River,  Stateu  Island  Sound,  and 
Raritan  Bay.  It  is  a  port  of  entry  with  a  considerable  coasting-trade ; 
and  exports  fire-brick  and  kaolin.  Near  this  place  is  the  summer  roiort 
known  as  the  Eagleswood  Park  Hotel,  pleasantly  situated  near  the  Rari- 
tan River. 

The  name  of  this  port  is  compounded  of  Ompoge,  or  Ambo,  the  Indian  name  for 
the  point,  —  and  Perth,  given  in  honor  of  the  Scottish  Earl  of  Perth,  one  of  the 
grantees  of  East  Jersey.  The  early  travellers  called  it  "  a  sweet,  wholesome,  and 
delightful  place " :  and  William  Penn  declared  of  it,  "I  have  never  seen  such  be- 
fore in  my  life."  It  was  settled  in  1009,  and  150  town-lots  were  laid  out :  the  in- 
tention being  to  establish  a  town  "the  most  considerable  for  merchandise,  trade, 
and  fishing  in  these  parts."  New  York  was  rivalled  in  commercial  importance  by 
Perth-town  ;  and  the  capital  of  the  province  was  located  liere  in  1684.  The  troops 
of  the  Havana  expedition  were  cantoned  here  in  1761  ;  and  the  point  was  garri- 
soned by  British  soldiers  during  most  of  the  Revolutionary  era. 


Beyond  Rahway  the  train  passea  Uniontovm,  near  the  Adrian  Institute, 
wheresummer  boarders  are  taken.  Running  through  the  peach-orchards 
of  Metuchen,  the  line  crosses  the  Raritan  River  and  enters  New  Bruns- 
wick (C%  Hotel;  New  Brunsvnck),  a  city  of  19,000  inhabitants,  with 
17  churches  and  2  newspapers.  It  is  the  capital  of  Middlesex  County, 
and  stands  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Raritan  River  and  at  the  E. 
terminus  of  the  Delaware  and  Raritan  Canal  (running  to  Bordentown,  42 
M.).  The  most  extensive  india-rubber  factories  in  the  United  States 
are  located  here ;  and  the  harness  and  hosiery  manufactures  are  largely 
developed.  The  riverward  streets  are  narrow  and  uneven,  but  the  npper 
part  of  the  city  is  well  laid  out  and  has  many  fine  residences.  The  opera- 
house  i.s  one  of  the  best  in  the  smaller  cities,  and  the  musical  culture  of 
the  inhabitants  is  quite  remarkable.  In  the  older  part  of  the  city  are 
several  quaint  and  antiquated  churches.  Butgers  College  occupies  a 
range  of  «ubstantial  buildings  which  front  on  a  campus  shaded  with  large 
trees,  api  from  its  vicinity  are  enjoyed  pleasant  views  of  the  valley  from 
Raritan  Bay  to  the  mts.  of  Somerset  County.    The  college  was  founded  in 


258     Route  S7. 


PRINCETON. 


1770,  when  King  George  III.  granted  its  charter  to  the  Protestants  fol- 
lowing the  Netherland  Reformed  Church.  It  was  then  named  Queen's 
College,  in  honor  of  the  English  Queen  ;  and  received  the  name  of  Rutgers 
in  1825.  It  is  now  a  richly  endowed  and  flourishing  institution.  Here 
was  founded  the  first  theological  seminary  in  the  U.  S.  (by  the  Dutch 
Reformed  Church  in  1771) ;  and  this  school  at  present  occupies  a  line  of 
new  buildings  on  the  ridge  beyond  the  college.  The  main  structure  is 
known  as  Hertzog  Hall,  and  on  the  lawn  near  by  is  a  bronze  statue  of  Mr. 
Hertzog,  its  chief  benefactor.  The  Masonic  Hall  is  one  of  the  best  build- 
ii|gs  in  the  city ;  and  the  Court  House  occupies  a  conspicuous  position 
near  the  centre.  The  Catholic  Cathedral  and  St.  James  Methoilist  Church 
are  modem  edifices ;  and  Christ  Church  (Epis.)  is  an  ancient  building 
surrounded  by  graves.  A  branch  R.  R  runs  i'rom  New  Brunswick  8  M. 
to  the  quiet  old  hamlet  of  E.  Millstone.  n 

New  Brunswick  was  settled  late  in  the  17th  century  by  men  of  Long  Inland, 
and  was  occupied  in  1730  by  several  Dutch  families  fh)m  Albany.  In  1748,  Kalm, 
the  Swedish  traveller,  found  liere  "  a  pretty  little  town,  with  4  churches  and  a 
considerable  trade  with  New  York.  After  a  sliarp  and  successful  engagement 
with  the  American  troops  near  the  town,  Lord  Cornwallis  evacuated  New  Bruns- 
wick, in  June,  1777,  leading  several  corps  of  the  royal  household  troops  and  8 
regiments  of  German  grenadiers. 

From  Monmouth  Junction  branch  lines  run  E.  to  Jameaburg  (4}  M.),  on  the 
Camden  &  Amboy  R.  R. ;  and  9  M.  N.  W.  to  Kingston,  near  wliich  the  apostolic 
Brainerd,  "  with  invincible  self-denial  and  profoundest  humility  and  devotion  to 
Qod," -converted  scores  of  Indians.  At  Kingston  Washington  eluded  the  British, 
and  made  a  forced  marcli  whicii  saved  his  array  after  the  victory  at  Trenton.  2 
If.  beyond  Kingston  (by  R  R.)  is  Rocky  Hill,  where  Washington  dwelt  for  8 
months  in  178.3,  and  whence  he  issued  his  "  Farewell  Address  to  the  Arioies  of 
the  United  States." 

16  M.  from  New  Brunswick  is  Princeton  Junction,  whence  a  branch 

line  runs  in  3  M.  to  Prinoeton  ( *  University  Hotel  ),  an  academic 

city  finely  situated  on  a  high  ridge  and  containing  nearly  3,000  inhabitants. 

It  is  chiefly  distinguished  as  the  seat  of  the  College  of  New  Jersey,  or 

Princeton  College,  which  was  founded  by  the  Presbyterian  Synod  of 

New  York  in  1741,  and  \^as  located  at  Princeton  in  1757. 

Nassau  Hall  was  built  in  the  latter  year,  and  was  so  named  "  to  express  the 
honor  we  retain  in  this  remote  part  of  the  globe  to  the  immortal  memory  of  the 
glorious  King  William  the  Third,  who  was  a  brancli  of  the  illustrious  house  of 
Nassau  ;  and  who,  under  God.  was  the  great  deliverer  of  the  British  nation  from 
those  two  monstrous  furies.  Popery  and  Slavery."  This  college  is  uo>^  under  the 
charge  of  the  Scottish-American  metaphysician,  James  McCosh,  D.  D.,  LL.  D. ; 
and  has  17  professors  and  417  students. 

The  college  buildings  are  mostly  of  stone,  and  occupy  a  long  line  parallel 
with  the  main  street  of  the  village.  On  the  W.  is  the  Halsted  Observa- 
tory, with  its  bright  blue  dome;  and  the  Gymnasium  is  the  next  in  the 
line.  Nassau  Hall  is  a  long  and  spacious  building  in  the  centre,  sur- 
mounted by  a  tower.  The  floors  and  stairways  are  fire-proof  ;■  and  the 
hall  projecting  to  the  S.  (formerly  occupied  by  the  library)  contajns  por- 
traits of  many  of  the  chief  men  of  the  college.    A  quadrangle  is  formed 


PRINCETON. 


RouU  S7,      259 


Kits   fol- 

Queen's 

Rutgers 
a.    Here 
le  Dutch 
a  line  of 
ucture  is 
ue  of  Mr. 
est  build- 
I  position 
ttt  Church 
;  building 
vick  8  M. 

mg  Island, 
1748,  Kalm, 
chea  and  a 
Bngagement 
New  Bruns- 
oops  and  8 

M.).  on  *!»« 
he  apostolic 
devotion  to 
the  British, 
Trenton.  2 
dwelt  for  8 
e  Armies  of 

a  branch 
academic 

ihabitants. 

Jersey,  or 
Synod  of 

J  express  the 
Imory  of  the 
]us  house  of 
Imotiow  from 
\if  under  the 

Id.,  ll.  d.  ; 

ine  parallel 
Id  Observa- 
Inext  in  the 

beutre,  sur- 
(f  ;.and  the 

titdns  por- 
ts formed 


by  Nassau  Hall  on  the  N.,  Reunion  and  W.  College  Halls  on  the  W.,  E. 
College  on  the  E.,  arod  2  small  buildings  with  classic  porticos  (on  the  8.), 
occupied  by  the  literary  societies.  The  Philadelphian  Society's  Hall  and 
the  residence  of  President  McCosh  are  nearer  the  y  lllage  street.  E.  of 
Nassau  Hall  is  the  elegant  new  •  Library  building,  of  red  and  gray  sand- 
stona.  The  octagonal  centre  is  flanked  by  graceful  wings,  and  the  portals 
are  Hvpported  by  columns  of  Scotch  granite  with  quaint  capitals.  In  this 
building  is  preserved  Peale's  portrait  of  Washington  at  the  battle  of 
Princeton.  Beyond  the  Library  is  Dickinson  Hall ;  and  the  E.  end  of 
the  line  is  occupied  by  the  new  and  ornate  building  of  the  Scientific 
School,  a  large  and  unique  structure  of  red  and  gray  stone.  Nassau  and 
Dickinson  Halls  and  the  Library  front  on  a  broad  and  verdant  camput 
whicli  is  adorned  with  many  large  trees. 

The  Theological  Seminary  oc  upies  several  plain  stone  buildings  near 
the  college  hulls.  This  is  the  leading  school  .f  the  Presbyterian  Church, 
and  has  educated  some  of  its  ablest  diviies.  Tlie  President  is  Dr. 
Charles  Hodge,  one  of  the  foreniost  >f  Americau  tbeo1ogian>>.  Opposite  the 
main  hall  is  the  handsome  building  occupied  by  tl  •  library  of  the  semi- 
nary, situated  in  a  pleasant  park  among  ancient  i  res.  The  Preparatory 
School  (of  the  college)  is  beyond  the  Seminary,  and  was  o  Aned  in  1873 
with  38  students.  The  Episcopal  and  Pr  d>j  ceriun  churches,  on  the  main 
street  of  Princeton,  are  large  and  imposing  stone  buildings. 

The  Cemetery  is  a  short  distance  N.  of  the  college  halls,  and  is  perhaps  the 
most  liiter«Htiugs)tot  in  Princeton.  There  are  Be\  eral  fine  monuments  to  deceased 
students :  tlie  noble  old  Stockton  family  has  some  interesting  memorials ;  and 
tiie  remains  of  several  venerable  presidents  of  the  college  are  buried  here  under 
tablets.  But  the  cliief  interest  of  tlie  cemeterj  centres  around  the  humble  monu- 
ments of  tlie  two  l(insmen  whose  lives  were  in  such  startling  contrast  to  each 
other.  —  Jonatlian  Edwarrls  and  Aaron  Burr. 

Jonathan  Edwards,  the  greatest  of  American  metaphysicians,  was  bom  in 
Connecticut  in  1703,  educated  at  Yale,  began  to  preach  in  1723,  and  was  a 
missionary  to  the  Indians  at  Stockbridge  (.Mass.),  1751 -d7.  While  there  he 
wrote  tlie  remarkable  treatise  on  "  The  Freedom  of  the  Will."  in  whose  close 
and  subtle  argument  he  maintained  "  that  philosophic  necessity  was  com- 
patible with  freedom  of  the  v/ill.  .'h^-ly  delined.  and  with  human  responsibility." 
"Tall  and  slender  in  jwrson,  he  1  ;.'*  u  higli.  broad,  bold  forehead,  piercing  and  lu- 
minous eyes,  and  a  countenance  i.idicative  of  sincerity  and  benevolence."  The 
great  raligious  awakening  that  startled  the  frozen  churches  of  New  England  in 
the  18th  century  was  largely  caused  by  his  marvellous  sermons,  unevadable  in 
their  directness,  incontrove.  lible  in  their  logic,  and  terrific  in  their  lurid  earnest- 
ness. Probiibly  no  preacher  since  Chrysostom  has  had  such  power  of  striking 
terror  into  an  audienrj ;  and  this  he  did  simply  by  his  words  and  by  his  intense 
earnestness,  and  without  any  of  the  graces  or  artifices  of  oratory.  He  was  inau- 
giinited  President  of  N.  J.  College  in  1758  :  but  died  of  small-pox  only  4  weeks 
after,  leaving  "  The  Freedom  of  the  Will."  "  The  Religious  Affections."  and  "The 
H  story  of  Redemption,"  as  his  great  monuments.  His  works  fill  10  octavo 
volumes.  -  "  These  three,  —  Augustine,  Calvin,  and  Jonathan  Edwards." 

Aaron  Bhrr,  the  grandson  of  President  Edwards,  was  born  at-Newark,  N.  J. 
in  1706.     He  graduated  at  N.  J.  College  in  1772,  joined  the  army  at  Cambridge  in 
1775.  was  in  Arnold's  march  through  the  Maine  forest,  the  attack  on  Quebec,  and 
other  b!i4tles  of  the  Revolution,  and  was  for  a  time  on  Washington's  staff,  but  af- 
terward joined  the  cabal  of  generals  who  opposed  and  endeavored  to  overthrow 


i 


260     Route  37, 


TRENTON. 


the  noble  Virginian.  He  began  to  practise  law  in  1782,  and  was  a  leader  in  the 
Senate  from  1791  to  1797.  In  1801  Burr  and  Jefferson  were  the  opposing  candi- 
dates for  the  Presidency  of  the  Republic.  The  vote  of  the  national  electors  was 
a  tie, — 73  for  eacli.  —  and  Congress,  after  80  successive  ballots,  decided  the  elec- 
tion in  favor  of  Jefferson,  with  Burr  for  Vice-President.  In  1804  he  killed  Alex- 
ander Hamilton  in  a  duel.  Soon  afterward  he  prepared  to  consummate  his  wild 
and  ambitious  scheme  of  forming  a  vast  southern  enix>ire  from  the  S.  W.  American 
territories  and  the  Spanish  province  of  Mexico.  He  had  already  secretly  banded 
together  large  forces  of  frontiersmen  in  order  to  seize  and  secure  his  imperial 
power,  and  had  won  over  several  officers  of  the  western  garrisons,  when  the  U.  8. 
government  discovered  the  plot,  and  arrested  its  author.  He  was  tried  for  treason 
at  Richmond  (1807).  and  was  barely  acquitted.  Fleeing  the  country,  he  lived 
abroad  in  great  poverty  imtil  1812,  when  he  returned  to  New  Yorl?,  married 
Madame  Jumel,  and  lived  in  obscurity  until  his  death,  in  1836.  He  was  a  man 
of  brilliant  talent  and  ability,  a  fiery  orator,  and  possessed  of  rcinarlcable  fascina- 
tion in  conversation ;  but  as  a  politician  he  was  totally  unprincipled,  and  his  social 
life  was  a  succession  of  systematic  villanies. 

Trenton  {Trenton  Hoiise,  $3.50  a  day;  United  States;  American; 
State  St.  House),  the  capital  of  New  Jersey,  is  situated  at  the  head  of 
navigation  on  the  Delaware  River,  and  is  crossed  by  the  Delaware  and 
Raritan  Canal.  It  has  22,874  inhabitants,  with  4  daily  papers,  and  28 
churches.  The  city  is  noticeable  for  its  cleanliness  and  thrift,  and  its 
suburban  streets  contain  many  fine  villas.  State  St.,  parallel  with  the 
river,  and  Main  St.,  at  right  angles  with  State,  are  the  chief  thorough- 
faree.  Various  and  extensive  manufactures  are  carried  on  by  the  aid  of 
the  Delaware  and  Assumpink  water-powers  ;  foremost  of  which  are  the 
potteries,  18  in  number,  with  67  kilns,  employing  1,200-1,500  men,  and 
producing  $  1,500,000  worth  of  goods  yearly  (much  fine  iron-stone  china 
and  white  granite  ware).  The  N.  J.  Steel  and  Iron  Co.  employs  650  men, 
producing  20,000  tons  yearly;  and  the  Trenton  Iron  Co.  employs  4-  500 
men.    Great  quantities  of  crackers  are  also  made  here. 

The  State  Hoase  fronts  on  State  St.,  across  a  small  park,  and  on  the 
other  side  overlooks  the  Delaware  River.  It  is  100  ft.  long,  and  was  built 
with  money  obtained  from  taxes  on  the  railroads.  The  building  is  sin- 
gularly disjointed,  and  has  picturesquely  irregular  outlines.  It  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  cupola  which  affords  pleasant  views  of  the  river  and  city. 
The  ^ate  Library  is  a  large  and  well-arranged  collection  occupying  a  hall 
in  the  rear  part  of  the  building.  The  new  U.  S.  Post'Office  is  situated 
on  State  St.,  and  is  a  fine  Renaissance  structure,  massively  built  of  stone. 
The  State  Penitentiary  is  on  Federal  St.,  and  covers  8  acres,  having  520 
convicts  and  44  oflScers.  400  of  the  men  make  shoes  for  the  Bay  State 
Company,  finishing  2,000  pair  a  day,  and  the'  women  work  on  clothing. 
A  new  wing  was  added  in  1872,  at  a  cost  of  $  150,000.  The  State  Lunatic 
Asylum  is  nearly  2  M.  N.  of  the  city,  on  an  eminence.  It  has  650  patients, 
and  cost  $  400,000.  The  State  Arsenal  is  near  the  Penitentiary,  on  the 
S.  A  branch  R.  R.  runs  6  M.  S.  E.  along  the  Delaware  from  Trenton  to 
Boidentown,  and  the  Belvidere  Delaware  R.  R.  runs  N.  W.  to  Easton 
(61  M.)  and  Manunka  Chunk  (58  M.). 


BRISTOL. 


Route  ST.      261 


Trenton  was  settled  by  the  Friends  in  1679,  and  about  the  rear  1720  it  was 
named  TrenXs-Umn,  in  honor  of  CoL  Wm.  Trent,  the  owner  of  the  land.  It  was 
made  the  capital  of  the  State  in  1790,  and  became  a  city  in  1792.  Among  the  na- 
tives  of  Trenton  were  Gov.  A.  H.  Reeder  (of  Kansas),  Bishop  O.  W.  Doane,  Dr.  J. 
R.  Coxe,  and  Joseph  Heed,  tlie  Revolutionary  statesman.  In  1776,  after  Wash" 
tngton's  disttftrous  reti-eat  through  the  Jerseys,  this  place  was  garrisoned  by  a 
brigade  of  Oerman  mercenaries  under  Colonel  Rail.  On  Christmas  night,  Wash^ 
in^n  crossed'the  Delaware  in  a  storm  of  sleet  and  snow,  leading  2,400  men  and 
20  cannon  by  boats  through  the  floating  ice,  and  attacked  Trenton  in  2  divisions 
about  daylight.  The  garrison  was  alarmed  by  the  firing  on  the  outer  pictcet-line, 
but  had  hardly  formed  and  begun  to  advance  before  their  commander  was  mortally 
wounded,  and  the  American  columns  converged  on  them  from  every  side.  Their 
artillery  was  taken  by  a  charge,  in  which  Lieut.  Monroe  (afteiwards  President  of 
the  U.  S.)  was  wounded,  and  the  enemy  broke  ranks  in  panic.  600  of  them  es- 
caped, but  1,000  were  captured,  together  with  6  cannon,  and  the  colors  of  the 
Anspach,  Knyphausen,  and  Rail  regiments.  Jan.  2,  1777,  Lord  Comwallis  ad; 
vanced  hitherward  with  5,000  British  regulars,  intending  to  crush  Washington's 
6,000  militia,  but  was  repulsed  at  the  fords  of  the  Assumpink  with  a  loss  of  150 
men.    During  the  following  night,  Washingt<jn  left  his  camp-fires  burning  and 

f ticket-lines  on  patrol  before  the  hostile  lines,  and  marched  rapidly  on  Princeton 
10  M.  distant),  where  he  fell  upon  the  17th,  40th,  and  55th  British  regiments,  then 
marching  to  join  Comwallis.  Gen.  Mercer  led  300  patrician  Philadelphians  against 
the  17tli,  but  was  repulsed  and  mortally  wounded  (refusing  to  surrender).  Moul- 
der's battery  then  opened  on  the  enemy,  and  the  Rhode  Island  regiment  advanced 
on  his  flank,  upon  which  the  British  gave  way,  leaving  their  artillery.  \\  M.  N., 
tae  Americans  met  and  routed  the  40th  and  55th  regiments,  and  bombarded  and 
stormed  Nassau  Hall  (of  Princeton  College),  which  was  filled  with  the  fugitives. 
Comwallis  was  now  close  behind  Washington,  and  the  chief,  leaving  a  gun  and 
a  strong  picket-guard  at  the  village,  hurried  after  the  flying  brigade,  and  was  safe 
among  the  hills  before  the  enemy  could  reach  him.  At  Princeton  the  Americans 
lost  100  men,  and  the  British  lost  over  400.  Frederick  the  Great  said  that  this 
fortnight's  campaign  was  "  the  most  brilliant  in  the  annals  of  military  achieve^ 
ments."  12  years  later,  when  Washington  was  going  from  Mount  Vemon  to  New 
York  to  assume  the  office  of  President,  he  was  accorded,  at  Trenton,  imposing 
triumphal  honors. 

On  leaving  Trenton  the  train  crosses  the  Delaware  on  a  massive  bridge 
1,100  ft.  long  (built  in  1804-6),  and  enters  Pennsylvania  near  M<yrris- 
viUe,  where  Marshal  Moreau  lived  for  several  years.  In  this  town  was 
the  Pennsbury  Manor  (near  the  river),  where  William  Penn  had  a  largo 
mansion  in  the  17th  century.  Bristol  is  the  chief  borough  in  Bucks 
County,  and  has  3,269  inhabitants.  It  has  a  rolling-mill  and  other  manu- 
factures, and  is  the  S.  terminus  of  the  Penn.  Canal  (Del.  Division),  which 
brings  down  vast  quantities  of  coal  from  the  Lehigh  Valley.  In  this  vi- 
cinity are  chalybeate  springs,  formerly  much  visited  and  used  for  bath- 
ing. Bristol  was  founded  in  1697,  and  occupies  a  fine  situation  on  the 
banks  of  the  Delaware,  nearly  opposite  Burlington.  It  is  a  summer 
home  for  many  people  of  Philadelphia,  and  has  a  daily  line  of  steamers  to 
that  city.  From  Holmesburg  Junction  a  branch  line  runs  4  M.  N.W.  to 
the  village  of  Bustleton,  and  from  Frankford  Junction  trains  run  3  M. 
S.  W.  to  the  terminus  at  Kensington.  Most  of  the  trains  turn  W.  from^ 
Frankford  and  run  around  the  N.  part  of  the  city,  crossing  the  Phila, 
&  Reading,  N.  Penn.,  and  Norristown  R.  Rs.  The  Schuylkill  River  is 
passed  in  Fairmount  Park  and  near  the  Girard  Ave.Bridge,  and  the  train 
sweeps  around  to  the  S.  E.,  and  stops  at  W.  Philadelphia  (81st  St.). 


262     RmUe38. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


38.   Philadelphia. 


Rs. 


Arrival*  —  Most  of  the  railroad  termini  are  remote  from  the  centre  of  the  city, 
but  are  passed  by  horse-car  lines  leading  thitherward.  The  main  station  for  New 
York  and  the  West  is  near  31st  St.,  whence  horse-cars  run  downJMarket  St.  to 
the  river.  The  Camden  &  Amboy,  Camden  &  Atlantic,  and  W.  f^rsey  R. 
terminate  at  Camden,  whence  ferry-boats  cross  to  Philadelphia. 

Hotels.  —  The  *  Continental  (corner  of  Chestnut  and  9th  Sts. ;  f  5.00  a  day) 
is  one  of  the  best  hotels  in  America,  and  has  a  flront  of  Pictou  sandstone,  6  stories 
high  and  200  ft.  long :  the  *Oirard^  opposite  the  Continental  on  Chestnut  St., 
93.50  a  day ;  the  Washington,  Chestnut  St.,  between  7th  and  8th  Sts.,  93  a  day  ; 
the  Ainerican,  Chestnut  St.,  opposite  Independence  Hall,  93  a  day  ;  Guy's,  comer 
of  Chestnut  and  7th  Sts.,  European  plan  ;  the  Irving,  on  Walnut  St.,  near  9th. 
Markoe's  and  the  St.  Stephen's  are  on  Chestnut  St.,  near  11th  St. ;  and  the  Bing- 
ham ($3  a  day)  is  on  the  comer  of  Market  and  11th.  The  ♦Stl  Cloud  ($3  a  day) 
is  on  Arch  St.,  between  7th  aud  8th  ;  the  Central  is  a  small  hotel  (92  a  day)  on 
Arch,  below  7th  ;  the  St.  Elmo  (9  2.50)  is  on  Arch,  near  8d  ;  and  the  Merchants' 
is  on  4th,  near  Arch.  In  the  upper  part  of  the  city  is  the  *  Colonnade  Hotel  9  3.50 
comer  of  Chestnut  and  15th  St.  ;  also  the  *  La  Pierre  ($  3.50),  on  Broad  St.,  near 
the  Union  League  and  Opera-House.  Near  the  river  are  several  inexpensive 
hotels,  — the  Ridgway  (92),  at  the  foot  of  Market  St. ;  the  Arch  St.  House,  and 
others.  The  Eagle  (comer  of  Vine  and  3d  Sts.);  the  Bald  Eagle  (3d  St,  near 
CallowhiH) ;  the  Black  Bear,  and  others  similarly  named  and  located,  are  inex- 

Sensive  houses  which  are  much  frequented  by  Pennsylvanians.  There  are  many 
rstr<;1as3  boarding-houses  in  the  city,  especially  on  upper  Chestnut,  Arch,  San- 
Bom,  and  other  well-located  streets.  The  prices  are  much  less  than  those  of  the 
hotels. 

Bestaurantg.  —  *The  Continental  Hotel  Caf^,  Chestnut  St.,  near  9th ; 
*  Green's,  731  Chestnut  St.,  near  7th;  Belcher's,  Mitchell's,  and  others,  near 
Independence  Hall.  There  are  many  restaurants  for  merchants,  etc.,  in  the 
riverward  streets  and  on  or  near  Chestnut  St.  Confectionery  and  ices  may  be  ob- 
tained at  the  Continental ;  also  at  Vansant's  (836  Chestnut  St.),  Whitman's  (812 
and  1004  Chestnut  St.),  and  elsewhere. 

Carriaseg  are  found  at  the  railroad  stations,  and  at  stands  throughout  the 
city.  Fares,  for  1  passenger  for  a  distance  of  1  M.  or  less,  75c. ;  2  passengers, 
$1.25  ;  each  additional  one,  25c.  For  1  passenger,  2  M.  or  less,  91.25  ;  2  passen- 
gers, 91.75  :  each  additional  one,  25c.,  —  and  50c.  for  every  mile  beyond.  Car- 
riages by  the  hour,  for  1-2  persons,  91.50;  25c.  for  each  additional  one.  For 
children  between  5  and  14  years  old,  half-price  is  charged ;  younger  children  are 
carried  f^e,  and  also  1  piece  of  baggage  to  e&oh  passenger.  Unless  otherwise 
specified,  the  fares  are  paid  by  the  mile  (1  M.  meaning  12  blocks  of  100  numbers 
on  numbered  streets). 

Horse-Cars.  —  The  horse-car  service  of  Fhila.  is  unequalled  elsewhere  in  the 
world,  and  is  performed  on  22  lines  of  track.  The  fare  is  7c.  ;  and  points  on  other 
connecting  lines  may  be  reached  by  tjransfer-tickets  (9c.),  which  should  be  called 
for  on  paying  the  fare.  Full  lists  of  the  routes  may  be  found  in  the  city  directory, 
at  the  offices  of  the  hotels.  Among  the  principal  lines  may  be  named  those  on 
Market  St.,  leading  to  the  Penn.  R.  R.  station ;  to  the  Insane  Hospital  and  Had- 
dington ;  the  Ridge  Avenue  line,  to  Girard  College,  Laurel  Hill  Cemetery,  and 
Manayunk  ;  the  2d  Qt.  line,  running  S.  to  the  Navy.  Yard ;  the  Kensington 
lines,  on  vA  and  Sd  Sts.  ;  and  fh)m  Richmond  to  Frankford  ;  on  Darby  Ave.  S. 
W.  to  the  open  country ;  on  South  St.  to  the  Naval  Asylum  ;  on  10th  St  to  the 
Moyamensing  Prison ;  the  lines  on  7th  and  9th  Sts.,  or  on  ISth  and  15th  Sts.,  to 
the  IMtimore  Depot ;  out  Walnut  St.  to  4lst  St.  (near  the  Insane  Hospital) ;  and 
on  Germantown  Ave.  to  Germantown.  The  cars  on  Chestnut  St.,  E.  of  the 
Schuylkill,  all  run  towards  the  Delaware.  Market  St.  is  the  great  thoroughfare 
of  horse-car  travel,  and  intersects  the  lines  running  N.  and  S. 

Ferries — fares,  5c.  —  tcova.  the  foot  of  Market  St.  to  Market  St.,  Camden, 
and  to  the  W.  Jersey  R.  R.  station  ;  Arom  Vine  St.  to  Camden,  and  the  Camden  & 
Atlantic  R.  R.  station;  firom  South  St.  to  Eaighn's  Point,  Camden;  flrom  South 
St.  to  Gloiicester,  N.  J. ;  from  Shackamaxon  St.  (Kensington)  to  Cooper's  Point, 
Camden  :  from  South  St  to  Red  Bank,  N.  J.  (lOc). 

Its* — The  *  Academy  of  Music  (comer  of  Broad  aud  Locust  Sts.) 


msKamaasmmiftm 


63 


)  of  the  city, 
ion  for  New 
[arket  St.  to 
rsey  R.  Rs. 

1 5.00  a  day) 
•ne,  6  stories 
tiestnut  St., 
.,$3  a  day  ; 
}uy'8,  comer 
b.,  near  9th. 
nd  the  Bing- 
d($3  a  day) 
$2  a  day)  on 
I  Merchants' 
3  Hotel  8  3.50 
tad  St.,  near 
inexpensive 
House,  and 
)d  St,  near 
sd,  are  inex- 
ire  are  many 
,  Arch,  San;- 
those  of  the 

,  near  9th ; 
others,  near 
etc.,  in  the 
s  may  be  ob- 
itman's  (812 

oughout  the 
passengers, 
f> ;  2passen> 
syond.  Car- 
al  one.  For 
children  are 
IS  otherwise 
LOO  numbers 

ivhere  in  the 
ints  on  other 
Id  be  called 
ty  directory, 
led  those  on 
»1  and  Had> 
metery,  and 
Kensington 
irby  Ave.  S. 
h  St  to  the 
15thSts.,to 
spital);  and 
.  E.  of  the 
horoughfare 

It.,  Camden, 

e  Camden  &, 

flrom  South 

)per'8  Point, 

Locust  Sts.) 


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PHILADELPHIA. 


Haute  S8.      263 


la  the  largest  opera-house  in  the  U.  S.,  and  is  devoted  chleflv  to  operas  and  mnsical 
entertainments  of  a  high  order.  Lectures  are  sometimes  given  here,  and  brilliant 
balls  are  also  celebrated.  The  Walnut  St.  Theatre  (comer  Walnut  and  9th  8ts.) 
has  a  fine  auditorium,  and  is  devoted  to  drama.  Mrs.  John  Drew's  •Arch  St. 
Theatre  is  on  Arch  St.,  near  6th  ;  Fox's  New  American  Theatre  is  on  Chestnut 
St.,  near  10th  ;  and  Wood's  Museum  is  at  the  corner  of  Arch  and  9th  Sts.  The 
Chestnut  St.  Theatre  is  above  12th  St.,  and  has  a  flne  hall.  Minstrtls  entertain- 
ments are  afforded  at  the  Arch  St.  Opera  House  (above  lOth  St.;  Simmons  and 
Slocum's  troupe),  and  at  the  opera-house  on  11th  St.,  near  Chestnut  (Camcross 
and  Dixey's  troupe).  Varieties,  on  7th  St,  between  Arch  and  Market  Sts.  Classic 
imislc  Mud  concerts  of  a  high  order  are  given  at  the  Musical  Fund  Hall,  on  Locust 
St.,  below  9th  (a  favorite  hall,  seating  2,500  persons);  also  at  Concert  Hall,  on 
Chestnut  St.,  alK)ve  12th  St.;  and  at  Horticultural  Hall  and  the  Academy. 

Beadlns-Rooms.—* Mercantile  Library,  on  10th  St.,  near  Chestnut  St.; 
the  Phila.  Library,  corner  of  5th  and  Library  Sts.;  Y.  M.  C.  A.  15th  and  Cliestnut 
St. ;  tlie  Apprentices'  Library,  corner  of  5th  and  Arch  Sts. ;  tl»e  German  Library, 
on  7tli,  near  Chesihut  St.;  the  Franklin  Institute,  at  155  7th  St. (10,000  volumes) ; 
and  at  the  hotels.  Billiards  at  Qreen's,  731  Chestnut  St.;  the  American  Hotel; 
and  the  Continental  Hotel. 

Art  Collections*  —  Besides  the  public  galleries,  there  are  fine  collections  of 
pictures  in  tlie  sales-galleries  of  Haseltine  (1125  Chestnut  St.),  Elarle  (816  Chest- 
nut St.),  Hall  (910  Chestnut  St.),  and  others.  The  private  collections  of  Phila. 
are  renowned  for  their  riclmess  and  value,  and  consist  (for  the  most  part)  of  the 
best  works  of  the  modem  French  sciiool,  with  numerous  examples  of  the  fore- 
most artists  of  America.'  They  are  usually  open  on  2  days  of  the  week  to  visitors 
provided  with  cards  of  admission,  which  may  be  obtained  by  application  to  the 
proprietors  (in  person  or  by  letter),  on  presentation  of  letters  of  introduction 
or  other  credentials  properly  recognizing  the  worthiness  of  the  applicant.  Mr. 
Henry  C.  Gibson  (1612  Walnut  St.)  has  100  choice  pictures,  displayed  in  3  rich 
Forapeian  cabinets,  whicli  are  adorned  with  statuary  and  objects  of  vertu.  This 
gallery  contains  fine  paintings  by  Calix,  Courbet,  Isabey,  the  Bonheurs,  Dif^, 
Zaraacois,  Couture,  Rothermel,  Troyon,  the  Achenbachs,  Tissot,  Calami,  Gerome, 
Meissonier,  Fortuny,  Daubigny,  etc.,  and  the  celebrated  work  of  Cabanel,  *The 
Birth  of  Venus.    James  L.  Claghorn,  Esq.  (on  W.  Logan  Sqiiare),  has  about  120 

Eictures,  representing  the  chinf  modern  artists  of  both  hemispheres,  —  Escosura, 
taubigny,  Prudhon,  Bouguereaii  Schreyer,  Zo,  Rigaud,  R.  Bonheur,  Blanchard, 
Meissonier,  the  A(jlienV>achs,  lliizog,  Flamm,  Knaus,  Stange,  Voltz,  Weber, 
Koekoek,  Rossi,  Zamacois,  Madoa,  Webb,  Pyne,  Tadema,  Boughton,  Holland, 
Hamilton,  Rothermel,  Gignoux,  T.  B.  Read,  Cropsey,  Gifford,  Leutze,  Casilear, 
Durand,  Church,  Bierstadt,  and  others.  Mr.  Claghorn  has  also  the  best  collection 
of  engravings  in  America,  numbering  many  thousand,  and  including  rare  and 
quaint  works  of  great  value.  The  galleries  of  the  late  Joseph  Harrison,  Jr.  (E. 
Rittenhouse  Square),  Wm.  B.  Bement,  A.  E.  Borie,  and  many  others  have  rare 
treasures  of  French  and  American  art. 

Railroads.  —  The  Pennsylvania,  to  New  York  in  90  M.,  to  Pittsburgh  in  854 
M.,  from  the  comer  of  31st  and  Market  Sts.  Local  trains  to  Bustleton,  Trenton, 
etc.,  from  Kensington ;  Camden  &  Amttoy  Division  by  ferry  to  the  Camden 
station,  ftom  the  foot  of  Market  St.  To  Erie  and  Buffalo,  by  the  Phila.  &  Erie 
R.  R.,  from  31st  and  Market  Sts.  The  Phila.  &  Reading  R.  R.,  ttom  the  comer 
of  13th  and  Callowhill  Sts.,  to  Reading  (58  M.)  and  Pottsville  (93  M.) ;  the 
Germantown  &  Norristown  R.  R.,  from  the  comer  of  9th  and  Green  Sts.,  to 
Norristown  (17  M.) ;  the  N.  Penn.  R.  R.,  from  tlie  corner  of  Berks  and  American 
Sts.,  to  Bethlehem  (54  M.);  the  West  Chester  &  Phila  R.  R.,  from  the  comer 
of  31st  and  Chestnut  Sts.,  to  West  Chester  (28  M.).  Tlie  Camden  &  Atlantic 
R.  R ,  by  ferry  from  the  foot  of  Vine  St.  to  the  station  in  Camden,  to  Atlantic 
City  (59  M.) ;  the  West  Jersey  R.  R.,  by  ferry  from  the  foot  of  Market  St.  to  the 
station  in  Camden,  to  Salem  (43  M.)  and  Cape  May  (81  M.).  The  Phihi.  &  Bal- 
timore Central  R.  R.,  from  the  comer  of  Broad  and  Prime  Sts.,  to  Port  Deposit 
(71  M.) :  the  Phila.,  Wilmington  &  Baltimore  R.  R.,  from  the  comer  of  Broad 
and  Prime  Sts.,  to  Baltimore  (98  M.). 

Steamships*  —  The  American  Line,  for  Queenstown  and  Liverpool  every 
Thursday  (fares,  cabin,  $75-100;  intermediate,  $40,  —  in  currency);  the  Red 
Star  Line,  for  Antwerp  weekly,  carrying  the  Belgian  and  U.  S.  mails  (fares,  first 
cabin,  $90;  second,  $60;  steerage,  $30);  for  Havana  and  New  Orleans  fort- 


264     Moute  38, 


PHILADELPHIA. 


nightly,  from  Pier  41  (foot  of  Ore«n  St.) ;  for  Savannah  every  SAtnrday  at  8  a.  m. 
rnier  41);  for  Charleaton  every  Friday,  fh>m  Pier  4  (below  Arch  Si);  for 
Wilmington,  N.  C,  every  Tuesday  at  6  a.  m.,  from  Pier  41 ;  ?or  Norfollc  and 
Richmond  every  Wednesday  and  Saturday  noon,  ft-oni  first  wharf  above  Market 
St. ;  for  Alexandria,  Georgetown,  and  Washington  (by  the  Chesapeake  h  Dela- 
ware Canal)  every  Wednesday  and  Saturday  noon,  m>m  second  wharf  below 
Market  St. ;  for  Baltimore  and  Havre  de  Grace  daily,  at  high  tide,  12  South 
Wharves;  for  Boston  (48  hrs.)  every  Wednesday  and  Satui^day,  at  10  a.  m., 
by  the  Winsor  Line,  from  the  Pine  St.  Wharf;  for  Providence  every  Wednes- 
day and  Saturday,  by  the  Clyde  Line,  from  Pier  3,  North  Wharves  ;  or  by  the 
Winsor  Line,  every  Saturday  at  10  a.  m.  ;  for  Hai-tford  (by  the  Delaware  and 
Baritan  Canal  and  Long  Island  Sound)  every  Thursday  noon,  from  Pier  4,  South 
Wharves  ;  for  New  York  daily  (in  24  hrs.),  fi-om  second  wharf  below  Market  St.  ; 
also  tri- weekly  from  Pier  19 ;  for  Albany  and  Troy  every  Wednesday,  from  first 
wharf  below  Pine  St. 

For  Cape  May  tri-weekly  Hn  summer) ;  for  Bridgeton  at  4  f.  m.  Tuesdays  and 
Fridays  ;  for  Salem,  Newcastle,  Pennsgrove,  and  Delaware  City,  daily,  from  Arch 
St.  Wharf ;  for  Wilmington,  Del,  daily,  from  Chestnut  St.  Wharf  and  the  pier  be- 
low (at  S  and  5  p.  M.) ;  for  Chester  and  Lazaretto  daily,  at  3  p.  m.,  firom  Pier  8^ 
North  Wharves  ;  for  Red  Bank,  BiUingsport,  Bridgeport,  and  Chester,  daily  at 
8  p.  M.,  from  Arch  St.  Wharf;  for  Lepslc,  Spruance,  Port  Penn,  and  Lamokin, 
tri-weekly  from  Arch  St.  Wharf.  The  Edwin  Forrest,  fix)m  the  Arch  St.  Wharf 
daUy  (with  the  tide),  for  the  urper  river-landings  and  Trenton  (fare,  40c.) ;  the 
John  A.  Warner,  from  the  Chestnut  St.  Wharf  semi-daily  (at  2  and  at  6  p.  M.),  for 
Riverton,  Torrcsdale,  Andalusia,  Beverly,  Burlington,  and  Bristol  (25c.);  the 
Twilight,  from  the  Chestnut  St.  Wharf  flemi-dnily(7  a.  m.  and  8  p.  M.),  for  Bur- 
lington, Bristol,  and  the  intermediate  ports  (25c.). 

Philadelphia,  the  second  city  in  point  of  population  in  the  Western 
Hemisphere,  and  the  foremost  city  in  point  of  manufactures,  lies  between 
the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill  Rivers,  6  M.  from  their  confluence  and  about 
96  M.  from  the  ocean.  The  land  toward  the  Delaware  is  generally  level 
and  but  slightly  elevated,  while  the  W.  and  N.  W.  suburbs  are  located 
on  rolling  ground  which  is  traversed  by  the  deep  valleys  of  the  Schuylkill 
and  the  Wissahickon.  The  city  is  in  latitude  39°  57'  N.  and  longitude 
75°  10'  W.  of  Greenwich ;  and  is  87  M.  from.  New  York  and  138  M. 
from  Washington.  The  Delaware  Biver  at  this  point  i8*a  deep  and  navi- 
gable stream  f  M.  wide;  and  the  Schuylkill  Biver  (on  the  W.)  descends 
hither  from  the  coal-regions  of  Schuylkill  Co-aty,  115  M.  N.  W.  The 
commerce  of  Phila.  is  large  and  increasing,  and  is  served  by  lines  of  steam- 
ships to  Europe  and  the  American  coast;  but  the  chief  wealth  of  the  city 
is  in  its  immense  manufacturing  interests,  which  are  favored  by  the  com- 
parative cheapness  of  land  and  building  materials  and  the  vicinity  of  the 
great  coal  and  iron  districts.  There  are  here  8,500  manufactories,  with  a 
capital  of  $  206,000,000,  served  1  y  55,000  horse-power  of  steam  and  5,000 
horse-power  of  water.  In  1870  these  works  were  reported  as  producing 
$  362,000,000  worth  of  goods  from  $  175,000,000  worth  of  raw  material. 
They  employ  100,000  men  and  40,000  women,  whose  yearly  pay-roll  amounts 
to  $  68,000,000.  Among  the  foremost  industries  of  Phila.  are  i;he  manu- 
factures of  locomotives,  ships,  cotton  and  woollen  goods  (at  Manayunk), 
umbrellas,  shoes  (for  the  S.  and  W.),  carpets,  iroi)  in  every  form,  books, 
and  refined  sugar.    The  city  is  the  fourth  in  the  Republic  isx  respect  to 


.k 


J 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Jloute  38.     266 


M 


commerce,  much  of  which  is  dependent  on  the  shipments  of  coal  and  iront 
and  her  coal-laden  schooners  and  propellers  visit  the  most  remote  points 
on  the  coast.  Several  first-class  railroads  converge  here  from  every  side  ; 
and  numercms  short  local  lines  connect  the  adjacent  counties  with  the 
metropolis.  Since  commerce  is  not  the  leading  interest,  the  city  has  less 
bustle  and  apparent  activity  than  New  York,  Boston,  or  Cliicago  ;  and 
this  air  of  comparative  quietness  is  also  largely  due  to  the  greatness  of 
the  area  over  which  the  enei^es  of  Phila.  are  at  work.  The  mechanics 
and  artisans  of  Phila.  live  more  comfortably' and  neatly  than  those  of  any 
other  city;  and  from  this  fact  an  immense  amount  of  skilled  labor  has 
directed  itself  upon  this  point.  Beyond  the  heart  of  the  city  extend 
seemingly  interminable  lines  of  brick  buildings,  precisely  similar  in  ex- 
temal  appearance,  neat,  cleanly,  and  respectable,  and  at  the  same  time 
inexpensive.  With  a  population  much  smaller  than  that  of  New  York, 
Phila.  has  more  houses  than  that  city ;  and  in  1870  reported  112,366  houses 
for  a  population  of  674,022,  while  New  York  had  64,044  houses  for  942,292 
inhabitants.  The  domestic  architecture  of  Phila.  is  very  monotonous,  and 
consists  almost  invariably  of  plain  buildings  impinging  upon  the  side- 
walks, with  pressed-brick  fronts,  marble  steps  apd  trimmings,  and  white 
window-shutters.  The  territorial  area  of  the  muncipality  is  129  M.,  in- 
cluded in  a  district  20  M.  long  and  5  -  8  M.  wide,  which  is  traversed  by 
over  600  M.  of  paved  streets.  On  about  2^  square  M.  (between  South 
and  Callowhill  Sts.)  the  streets  are  laid  out  with  great  regularity,  and 
cross  each  other  at  right  angles;  but  beyond  those  limits  the  rectangular 
streets  are  traversed  by  oblique  roads  leading  to  the  suburban  villages. 
The  houses  are  numbered  by  a  convenient  plan,  each  street  commencing 
a  new  hundred ;  and,  as  nearly  all  the  streets  running  N.  anu  S.  are 
designated  by  numbers,  the  location  of  a  given  house  can  be  quickly  esti* 
mated.  From  2d  St.,  which  is  the  first  street  W.  of  Front  St.,  to  the 
Schuylkill  there  are  nearly  30  streets  ;  and  No.  1125  Chestnut  St.  would 
be  found  between  11th  and  12th  Sts.  Market  St.  is  the  main  business 
thoroughfare;  Chestnut  St.  is  devoted  to  banks  and  retail  trade;  Front  St. 
has  much  wholesale  trade;  and  Delaware  Ave.  follows  the  river  and  is 
the  seat  of  commerce. 


lanu- 

|ink), 

}oks, 

3t  to 


The  Indian  domain  of  Wicaco  (now  South wark)  was  settled  by  the  Swedes  be- 
fore 1677,  and  a  foriified  block-bouse  was  erected.  In  October,  1082,  William 
Penn  and  a  large  number  of  English  Qiiakera  sailed  up  the  Delaware,  and  at 
Shackamaxon  (now  Kensington)  he  held  a  conference  with  the  Indian  chiefs. 
"The  children  of  the  forest  were  touched  by  the  simple  doctrine  which  the 
'  Quaker  king '  avowed.  They  received  the  presents  of  Penn  in  sincerity,  and  lA 
hearty  firiendship  they  gave  the  belt  of  wampum.  '  We  will  live,'  said  they,  '  in 
love  with  William  Penn  and  his  children  as  long  as  the  moon  and  the  sun  shall 
endure."'  This  compact  was  well  observed,  and  "not  a  drop  of  Quaker  blood 
was  ever  shed  by  an  Indian."  Later  in  1682,  Penn  purchased  the  lands  of  Coa- 
qtienakit  ("the  grove  of  the  tall  pines  "),  which  he  said  "  was  not  surpassed  by  one 
among  all  the  many  places  he  had  seen  in  the  world  " ;  and  here  a  city  was  laid 

12 


266     Jloute  38. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


out  whteh  h«  named  Philadelphia,  partly  in  honor  of  that  Asiatic  nity  to  whose 
church  Chritit  sent  the  niesHuge,  "  I  have  loved  ttiee."  and  partiv  Iwuauae  of  the 
etyninloKy  of  the  name  (from  the  Orvek  comiwund  word,  ^iAa3«A^o<,  meaning 


"  iirotheriy  love."  and  thereby  identify  inK  the  principles  of  the  (Quaker  inimigrnnts 
with  the  name  of  their  city).  The  grovns  of  cliestnut,  walnut,  sprutie,  and  other 
trees  were  soon  cleared  awuy,  leaving  their  names  attached  to  tito  streets  which 
crossed  their  sites  ;  ami  in  1U8S  the  l^ovincial  Assenibly  convened  here  and  lormed 
"  the  cliarter  of  liberties." 

The  ne^  city,  thus  planted  in  amity  and  peace,  and  fostered  by  the  Penn  family, 
grew  rapidly  in  i>opuIntion  and  consequence,  and  until  1820  it  was  the  largest  in 
the  U.  o.  A  citv  charter  wus  obtained  in  1701,  including  the  space  between  the 
Delaware  and  iSchuylklll  and  the  present  Vine  and  South  Bts.  Under  the  influence 
of  Franklin.  Logan,  and  .lolin  Penn,  a  reflned  and  cultured  society  was  devtdoped, 
and  science  received  mui^b  attention.  Great  excitement  prevailed  here  after  the 
Stamp  Act  and  Tea-tax.  and  a  band  of  disguised  citizens  captured  the  flrst  landed 
cargo  <'f  tea  and  burnt  it  in  the  fields.  Wiien  the  appeal  to  arms  became  neces< 
sary,  that  powerful  and  wealthy  i)ortion  of  the  community  which  Iwlonued  to  the 
sect  of  Quakers  held  back  from  the  colonial  cause,  and  were  thenceforth  imssive. 
but  ardent  royalists.  In  Sept,  1774,  the  first  Continental  Congress  met  here. and 
In  July,  1776.  it  declared  the  independence  of  America.  After  the  disasters  about 
New  York,  Congress  acljounied  to  Baltimore  (Dec.  12, 1776),  and  on  Sept.  26, 1777, 
after  tlioir  victory  at  the  Brandywine,  the  British  troops  occupied  the  city.  It 
was  the  Capua  of  the  royal  army,  who  passed  the  period  of  their  occupation  in 
rioting  and  lax  diiscipline,  while  the  vigilant  Washington  watched  them  tnnn  the 
dreary  camps  at  Valley  Forge,  24  M.  N.  W.  The  grand  military  and  chivalric  fes- 
tival called  tlie  Mischiama  took  place  May  18,  1778,  and  one  month  later  the 
British  anny  evacuated  their  fortifications  and  cninps  and  retreated  to  New  York. 

Sureued  by  Washington.  The  national  government  reoccupied  the  city,  and 
enceforth  its  growth  was  steady  .and  rapid.  The  Constitution  was  framed  here 
in  1787,  and  Congress  continued  o  meet  in  Independence  Hall  until  1797>  In 
1684,  Phila.  had  2,000  inhabitants  ;  in  1777,  21,167  :  in  1700,  42,520 ;  in  1800. 
70,287  ;  in  1820,  119,325 ;  in  1840.  258,037  ;  in  1860,  565,629  ;  ond  in  1876,817.448. 

Among  the  natives  of  Pliiladelphia  were  the  signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence,  George  Clymer,  Francis  Hopkinson,  and  Roliert  Rush  ;  the  U.  S.  Sena- 
tors, J.  A.  Bayuil,  Nicholas  Biddle,  G.  M.  Dallas,  and  W.  C.  Preston  ;  and  Wm. 
Franklin,  W.  M.  Kelley,  and  Fernando  Wood.  To  the  Church  she  has  given 
Bishops  Carrell.  Hobart,  and  White,  and  Drs.  Alexander,  Duchet,  Charles  Hodge, 
McClintooV  w.  H.  Milbum,  Odenheimer,  Potts,  Stevens,  Turner,  S.  H.  Tyng, 
Jr.,  and  J.  B.  Walker.  To  the  law  she  hos  given  Wra.  Allen,  Horace  Binney,  the 
Bawles,  Sharswood,  Shippen,  the  Wallaces,  and  the  Whartons.  The  medical  pro- 
fession is  represented  by  8.  Bard,  T.  Gallaudet,  Green.  Harlan,  Hosack,  Morgan, 
Physic,  the  Shippens,  and  H.  H.  Smith.  To  the  army  she  has  given  Generals 
Cadwallader,  Darke,  Harmor.  Haupt,  McCall,  McClellan,  Mifflin,  Morton,  Pern- 
berton  (rebel),  Naglee,  and  P.  P.  Smith  ;  to  the  navy,  Bache,  the  Biddies,  the 
Cassins,  Dahlgren,  Dehavcn,  the  Ellets,  the  Engles,  E.  K.  Kane,  and  D.  D.  Porter. 
To  literature,  Allibone.  Clif'on,  Barker,  Broadhcad,  C.  B.  Brown,  T.  Coxe,  Anna 
£.  Dickinson,  J.  D.  Englisa,  Gallagher,  Godfrey,  James  Hall,  the  Hopkinsons, 
the  IngeraoUs,  Charles  G.  Leland,  Eliza  Leslie,  E.  J.  and  George  P.  Moms,  M.  M. 
Noah,  C.  Roguet,  the  Reads,  Henry  Reed,  R.  P.  Smith,  and  C.  W.  Thompson. 
To  science,  Robert  Hare,  .1.  Leidy,  8.  G.  Morton,  G.  Ord,  R.  M.  Patterson,  H.  D., 
W.  B.,  and  J.  B.  Rogera,  T.  Say,  Townsend,  and  Wilson.  To  art,  P.  O.  C.  Darley, 
T.  Doughty,  and  T.  U.  Walter,  the  architect  To  the  stage,  J.  Jefferson,  W. 
Warren,  and  J.  E.  Murdoch.  The  philanthropists  Boudinot,  Eddy,  Pemberton, 
and  Vaux  were  also  natives  of  Philadelphia. 

William  Penn,  the  foimder  of  Penusylvania,  was  bom  at  London,  in  1644,  and 
was  the  sou  of  Admiral  Penn.  He  was  liberally  educated  at  Oxfoi-d  and  Paris, 
stndied  law,  and  fought 'in  the  Irish  war.  In  1666  he  became  a  Quaker,  and  began 
to  preach,  but  was  frequently  imprisoned.  In  1680  he  received  a  royal  patent  for 
Pennsylvania,  and  in  1682  he  made  a  favorable  treaty  with  the  Indians,  andltought 
the  land  fh)m  them  fairly.  Many  years  he  spent  in  English  prisons  on  charges 
of  treason  and  debt,  and  in  1718  he  died.  His  grandson,  John  Penn,  was  the  last 
royalgovernor  of  Pa.,  and  was  a  firm  loyalist.  He  was  confined  in  Virginia  by 
the  patriots,  and  the  Penn  estate  (the  largest  in  America ;  valued  at  nearly 
$5,000,000)  was  confiscated  by  Congress. 


^ 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Jtoute  38.      267 


Varket  St.  is  the  central  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  and  is  100  ft.  wide. 
It  is  lincu  with  stores  and  (in  thu  lower  part)  wholesale  houses,  and  is 
traversed  by  numerous  lines  of  horse-cars.  Passing  3  of  the  great  mar- 
kets for  wliich  Phila.  is  ho  widely  celebrated,  the  new  public  buildings  on 
Penn  Square  are  rounded,  M'ith  the  Masonic  Temple  on  the  r. ;  and  the 
street  runs  W.  to  the  Schuylkill,  which  in  crossed  on  a  new  and  mnssivu 
bridge.  The  elegant  Chestnut  St.  Bridge  is  seen  on  the  1.,  and  tlie  city 
gtts-works  are  on  the  r.  The  Penn.  R.  R.  terminal  station  (a  large  new 
brick  and  stone  building)  is  now  reached,  beyond  which  Lancaster  Ave. 
diverges  to  the  r.  to  Ilostonvillc ;  Dorby  Ave.  turns  to  the  S.  W.  to  tlie 
University  and  Almshouse,  and  Market  St.  passes  W.  to  the  Insane 
Hospital. 

At  the  comer  of  Market  and  Front  Sts.  is  the  quaint  old  building  of 
the  London  Coffee-House,  which  was  built  in  1702,  and  was  a  famous 
resort  in  the  later  colonial  days.  The  Penn  Cottage  is  an  ancient  structure 
on  Letitia  Street  (running  from  Market  to  Chestnut  St.  between  Front 
and  2d  St.).  It  was  the  first  brick  building  in  Phila.,  and  was  the  home 
of  William  Penn  in  1682-83.  The  new  Exchange,  comer  of  2d  and 
Gothic  Sts.,  occupies  the  site  of  the  Slate- Roof  Jlouse,  which  was  built 
in  1690,  occupied  by  Penn  in  1700,  and  by  Wm.  Trent  (founder  of  Trenton) 
after  1703.  LordCombury,  John  Adams,  Baron  De  Kalb,  John  Hancock, 
and  others  sojourned  here ;  it  was  Amold's  head-quarters  in  1778 ;  and 
here  John  Penn  was  bom,  and  Gens.  Forbes  and  Charles  Lee  died. 
*  Christ  Charoh  is  on  2d  St.,  near  Market,  and  is  a  quaint  and  venerable 
stmcture  which  dates  from  1727  (its  communion -service  was  presented  by 
Queen  Anne  in  1708).  It  was  regularly  attended  by  Washington,  and  the 
mossy  graveyard  (on  Arch  St.)  contains  the  remains  of  many  notable 
men  of  past  eras.  In  the  tower  is  the  oldest  chime  of  bells  S.  of 
Boston.  They  were  brought  from  London  in  1754,  rang  in  the  birth  of 
Liberty  in  1776,  and  were  hidden  at  Allentown  during  the  British  occu» 
pation.  The  spire  is  196  ft.  high,  and  there  is  a  fine  view  from  the  tower, 
including  the  Delaware  and  its  islands  and  shipping,  the  level  plains  of 
New  Jersey,  and  the  broad  masses  ol  the  city  blocks. 

On  2d  St.  is  the  old  Loxley  House,  and  at  239  Arch  St.  the  first 
American  flag  was  made.  On  the  S.  W.  comer  of  7th  and  Market  Sts. 
is  the  house  in  which  Jefferson  wrote  the  Declaration  of  Independence, 
and  the  identical  room  is  still  shown.  An  open  iron  railing  on  Arch  St., 
near  5th  St.,  reveals  the  grave  of  Benjamin  Franklin,  beyond  which  are 
the  sepulchres  of  many  ancient  magnates,  occupying  Christ  Church  grave- 
yard. On  Arch  St.,  near  4th,  is  the  Friends'  Meeting-House,  a  quaint 
old  building  which  is  secluded  in  a  broad  graveyard.  It  was  built  in 
1808,  to  receive  the  congregation  who  were  driven  from  the  more  ancient 

Great  Meeting-House"  on  Market  St.  by  the  ''street  noises."    The 


It 


S68     Jtoute  S8, 


PHILADELPHIA. 


■M' 

I 


Friends*  Library  In  at  804  Arch  St.,  unA  hr  '  "ver  10,000  vt)1iiimeH{  and 
tho  Apprentices'  Library  had  about.  25,000  v.  liur)">i,  in  the  old  building 
at  tho  comer  of  Arch  and  5th  Stti.,  which  wi.'  io.niurly  occupie<l  by  "  the 
Fighting  Quakem."  Beyond  this  point  Areh  St.  ^unfl  W.  through  a 
quiet  commomial  distriot,  pasBing  the  elegant  fronts  of  the  Arch  St. 
Theatre  and  the  St.  Cloud  Hotel.  Near  10th  St.  are  the  Methodist  Book- 
Rooms;  and  Arch  St.  soon  crosttes  Brond  St.,  by  a  trio  of  elegant  churches, 
and  enters  a  district  of  residences,  chiefly  remarkable  for  the  monotony 
of  their  architecture. 

Oheitnttt  St.  is  the  most  brilliant  and  interesting  street  in  the  city. 
It  runs  W.  from  the  Delaware  River,  and  passes  for  several  squares 
through  a  district  of  wholesale  houses  and  banks.  Third  St.  is  the  Wall 
St.  of  Phila.,  and  leads  S.  by  the  former  head-quarters  of  Jay  Cooke  & 
Co.,  and  the  classic  iK>rtico  of  the  Girard  Bank  (copied  from  the  Dublin 
Exchange,  and  long  occupied  by  Stephen  Qirard),  to  the  *  Merchants' 
Exchange,  the  head-quarters  of  commerce,  opposite  which  are  the  U.  S. 
Appraiser's  stores,  in  a  new  and  massive  stnicture  which  Supervising- 
A\x;hitect  Mullet  declares  is  the  only  flre-proof  building  in  America.  Be- 
yond this  point,  and  on  and  near  4th  St.,  are  the  costly  and  imposing 
buildings  of  the  Penn.,  the  Lehigh  Valley,  the  Reading,  and  other  railroads. 

To  the  8.  (corner  of  Pine  and  Sd  Sts.)  1b  St.  Peter*a  Church»  which  was 
built  in  1758-61,  and  has  a  tower  cnntiiining  a  n>«rry  clilnie  uf  bells.  In  tlte 
churchyani  is  a  uionuineiit  to  Cuui.  Decatur,  "  the  Bayard  of  the  seas,"  a  gallant 
naval  officer  in  the  Tripolitan,  Algerian,  and  British  (1812)  Wars.  8d  St.  runs  N. 
through  a  busy  trade  district,  narallel  with  2d  St.,  the  Bowery  of  Phila.  On 
Cherry  St.,  W.  of  3d,  is  Christ  Church  Hospital,  and  at  the  intersection  of  Race 
and  0th  Sts.  is  Franklin  Square,  a  pleasant  park  in  which  is  a  nmrble  fountain. 
To  the  W.,  on  Sergeant  St,  between  0th  and  10th  Sts.,  is  the  Girls'  Normal  School. 

On  Chestnut  St.,  above  3d,  is  the  Florentine  front  of  the  Bank  of  North 

America,  the  oldest  bank  in  the  Republic  (founded  in  1781),  near  which 

is  tlie  building  of  the  Fidelity  Safe  Deposit  Co.,  massively  built  of  Mass. 

marble,  with  an  impregnable  safe  weighing  150  tons  (cost  $60,000). 

Back  of  the  ornate  Guarantee  Safe-Deposit  is  Carpenteri'  Hall,  which 

was  built  of  small  imported  brick  (each  alternate  one  being  glazed  and 

dark),  in  1770,  for  the  use  of  the  Society  of  Carpenters.    Here,  in  the 

hall  on  the  lower  door,  met  the  firat  independent  American  Congress^ 

Sept.  6,  1774. 

"  Here,  with  the  news  of  the  cannonade  of  Boston  bursting  upon  them,  arose 
the  first  prayer  in  Congress.  Washington  was  kneeling  there,  and  Henry,  and 
Rutledge,  and  Lee,  and  Jay.  and  by  their  side  stood  bowed  in  reverence  the  Puri- 
tait  patriots  of  New  England,  who  at  that  time  had  reason  to  believe  that  an 
armed  soldiery  were  wasting  tlicir  humble  households."  After  the  Revolution 
the  hall  passed  into  ignoble  uses,  but  has  since  been  restored  by  the  Company  of 
Cfuitenters,  and  is  now  carefully  guarded  and  i-eserved  for  reverent  visitors. 

The  *Tr.  8.  Custom  House  is  on  C!hestnnt  St.,  between  4th  and  5th, 
aad  was  built  in  1824  for  the  U.  S.  Bank  at  a  cost  of  $  500,000.    It  has 


PHILADELPHIA. 


JtouU  38.      269 


neii;  and 
building 
by  •'  the 
lirough  a 
Arch  St. 
iBt  Book- 
clmrcheH, 
monotony 

\  the  city, 
il  nquaros 
*  the  Wall 
jr  Cooke  & 
the  Dublin 
lUerchanta* 
J  the  U.  S. 
upervlslng- 
erica.    Be- 
d  imposing 
ur  railroads, 

I,  which  was 
.ells.  In  the 
^8,"  a  gallant 
1  8t.  runs  N. 
^f  I'hlla.  On 
itlon  of  Race 
hie  fountain. 
[ormal  School. 

ik  of  North 
near  which 
[it  of  Mass. 
it  $60,000). 
[allf  which 
I  glazed  and 
[ere,  in  the 
L  Congress, 

them,  arose 
Henry,  and 
.ice  the  Puii- 
iieve  that  an 
B  Revolution 
1  Company  of 
lisitors. 

Ih  and  5th, 
\qO.    It  has 


2  imposing  fh>nts  (one  on  Library  St.),  each  of  whioh  haa  8  fluted  marble 
columns  of  the  Doric  ortler,  rising  from  a  high  piatfonn  approached  by 
steps,  and  supporting  a  plain  pediment.  Just  above  the  Custom  House 
is  the  Poit-Offiott  a  practical  granite  building,  and  opposite  is  the  Farm- 
ers'  and  Mechanics'  Bank,  a  tine  marble  structure,  containing  the  Clearing 
House  and  occupying  the  site  of  Lord  Howe's  head-quarters.  Just  above 
is  the  Quincy-granite  front  of  the  Penn.  Life  Ins.  and  Trust  Co.  Above 
6th  St.  is  *  iUate-Uotue  Mow,  a  line  of  ancient  buildings  now  occupied  by 
the  municipal  government,  and  fronting  on  a  broad  paved  sidewalk  which 
is  shaded  by  trees,  and  has  a  statue  of  Washington.  Tlie  central  building 
dates  from  1729-34,  and  is  known  as  *  Independenoe  Hall.  In  its  E. 
chamber  the  General  Assembly  of  Penn.  gave  place  to  the  Continental 
Congress.  In  this  room  ("the  birthplace  of  the  Republic")  George 
Washington  was  elected  commander  of  the  American  army  (June,  1776), 
and  on  July  4,  1776,  the  Declaration  of  Independence  was  adopted  here 
by  Congress,  and  was  read  from  before  the  building  (July  8)  to  a  vast  and 
exultant  multitude.  Tlie  halls  are  now  restore<l  to  their  old  estate,  and 
have  been  made  the  receptacle  for  a  National  Museum  (open  9  a.  M.  to  4 
P.  M.,  daily).  The  E.  room  contains  a  large  number  of  portraits  of  the 
leaders  of  the  young  Republic  (in  Congress  and  in  the  field),  Washington, 
Franklin,  Morris,  Adams,  Jeflferson,  Lee,  etc.  Several  of  these  pictures 
were  painted  by  C.  W.  Poale  ;  others  are  copies  from  Stuart  and  Trum- 
bull.  The  antique  wainscoting  and  Congressional  chairs  in  this  room  are 
noteworthy.  The  W.  room  contains  a  large  and  interesting  collection  of 
curiosities  and  mementos  of  the  younger  days  of  America.  There  are 
personal  effects  of  the  magnates  of  the  provincial  and  Revolutionary  eras, 
furniture  from  old  and  historic  mansions  of  Penn.  and  the  adjacent  States; 
and  souvenirs  of  the  republican  armies  and  officers  during  the  earlier 
wars.  Autographs,  coins,  and  medals,  MS.  letters  and  orders,  and  other 
relics  of  the  past,  are  here  displayed ;  and  the  collections  will  be  of  great 
interest  to  the  antiquarian  and  patriot.  TIds  is  the  nucleus  of  the  grand 
National  Museum  which  has  been  prepared  for  the  Centennial  display  in 
1876  ;  and  contributions  are  maile  to  it  from  all  parts  of  the  Republic. 

The  original  Declaration  of  Independence  is  to  be  kept  in  the  E.  cham> 
ber  through  the  Centennial  season.  Among  other  relics  in  the  W.  hall 
are  the  banner  of  the  Penn.  Line,  Franklin's  table,  Penn's  chair,  Paul 
Jones's  flagon,  and  many  other  personal  mementos  of  great  interest  and 
value,  historically. 


I  : 


270     RouUSS. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


At  the  vestibule  of  the  Hall  is  the  *  Old  Liberty  Bell,  mounted  upon 
its  original  framework  of  heavy  timbers.  This  bell  was  made  in  London 
in  1752,  and  bore  the  inscription,  "  Proclaim  Liberty  throughout  the  land 
onto  all  the  inhabilattts  thereof."  It  was  recast  in  Phila.  soon  after  (re- 
taining  the  inscription),  and  its  merry  ringing  announced  to  the  city  that 
Congress  had  adopted  the  Declaration  of  Independence  (July,  1776). 
Passes  to  the  steeple  of  the  hall  are  given  in  the  E.  Chamber,  and  the 
view  from  that  point  is  quite  interesting,  including  the  densely  settled 
parts  of  the  city,  the  white  colonnades  of  Girard  College,  the  hills  of 
Fai'Tnount,  and  the  N.  J.  shores. 

Independence  Square  is  S.  of  the  Hall,  and  is  adorned  with  fine  old 
trees.  It  was  bought  by  the  Province  in  1729  and  1760,  and  was  planted 
with  .elm-trees  in  1783.  Here  the  assembled  people  heard  the  Declaration 
read,  and  on  its  S.  side  were  the  British  military  prisons  during  the  Revo- 
lution. The  Square  covers  4  acres,  and  is  worn  smooth  by  the  feet  of 
many  passers.  The  Court  House  is  in  this  vicinity,  with  the  offices  of 
many  lawyers.  To  the  S.  W.  is  Washiiigton  Square,  which  is  famous  as 
containing  trees  of  nearly  every  variety  found  in  this  latitude,  in  great 
number  and  luxuriance.  This  Square  is  well  kept,  and  is  surrounded  by 
iron  fences.  It  occupies  the  site  of  the  "  Potter's  Field,"  where  over 
2,000  American  soldiers  were  buried  duiing  the  Revolution.  The  Athe- 
nfi&ztm  building  fronts  on  this  square  (comer  of  6th  and  Adelphi  Sts.), 
and  has  a  reading-room,  a  chess-room,  and  a  library  of  over  25,000 
volumes. 

The  *  Fhila.  Library  is  on  S.  5th  St.,  near  Chestnut  St.,  and  occupies 
a  plain  old  building,  over  whose  entrance  is  a  statue  of  Franklin.  The 
main  library  has  94,000  volumes  (rich  in  American  history),  and  the  Lo- 
ganian  Library  (classics)  is  in  the  same  hall,  and  contains  6-8,000  vol- 
umes. This  institution  was  founded  in  1731  by  Benjamin  Franklin's  in- 
fluence, and  received  its  first  importation  of  books  in  1732.  The  present 
building  dates  from  1789.  In  1877  the  library  will  be  partly  changed  to 
a  grand  new  building  at  the  comer  of  Broad  and  Christian  Sts.,  which  has 
cost  $1,500,000,  and  was  a  bequest  to  the  society  from  Dr.  Rush.  This 
edifice  is  built  of  white  marble,  with  a  massive  portico  upheld  by  Doric 
columns  and  flanked  by  secondary  colonnaded  entrances. 

The  library  hall  is  surrounded  by  portraits  and  busts  of  eminent  men,  while 
over  the  upper  galleries  are  colossal  busts  of  Minerva  and  Melpomene.  The  tall 
and  ancient  clocks  of  Penn  and  Cromwell  are  here,  and  in  cases  in  the  centre  of 
the  hall  are  many  literary  curiosities,  chief  of  which  are  a  volume  of  Franklin's 
Penn.  Gazette,  1737-39;  the  works  of  Scotus,  printed  at  Venice  in  1477:  the 
Golden  Legende,  by  Caxton,  1483  ;  St.  Augustine's  Vita  Christiana,  by  Faust  and 
Schoeffer,  1459  ;  the  Book  of  Hours,  printed  on  vellum  at  Paris,  1610  :  Plantage- 
net's  New  Albion,  1648 :  Eliot's  Indian  Bible,  Cambridge,  1663 ;  a  vellum  MS. 
Bible  of  the  13th  century  ;  an  Abyssinian  prayer-book  ;  the  Book  of  Esther,  in  a 
Hebrew  scroll ;  a  phylactery ;  and  ancient  MSS.  in  Greek,  Hebrew,  Siame8e, 
Chinese,  and  Arabic.    The  library  is  open  Ax>m  10  a.  m.  to  sonset.    The  Avitrican 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Eoute  S8.      271 


upon 

mdon 

iland 

3r(re- 

^that 

1776). 

id  the 

settled 

ills  of 

ine  old 
jlanted 
aration 
B  Revo- 
feat  of 
aces  of 
mous  as 
in  great 
ttded  by 
ure  over 
tie  Athe- 
hi  Sts.), 
I-  25,000 

occupies 
in.    The 
the  Lo- 
,000  vol- 
:lin*8  in- 
present 
anged  to 
rhich  has 
ih.    This 
»y  Doric 

(len,  while 
The  tall 
J  centre  of 
lFranklin'8 
■  1477 ;  the 
Faust  and 
,  Plantage- 
Mlum  MS. 
fcther,  i"  a 
,  Simnebe, 


Philosophical  Society  is  domiciled  near  this  hall  (corner  of  8.  5th  and  Chestnut 
Sts.)i  ttiid  has  a  collection  of  antiquities  and  curiosities,  with  a  library  of  30,000 
volumes.  It  was  founded  in  1743  by  FrankUn,  John  Penn,  and  others,  and 
erected  its  present  building  in  1790  on  land  given  by  the  State. 

Chestnut  St.  mns  W.  from  Independence  Hall,  passing  on  the  I.  the 
stately  brown-stone  building  of  the  Public  Ledger,  near  which  are  the 
offices  of  the  Sun,  the  Transcript,  the  Post,  the  Star^  the  Age,  the  /)ay, 
the  Item,  the  Herald,  the  German  Democrat,  and  the  Evening  Bulletin. 
Elegant  retail  stores  are  now  seen  on  either  side,  and  the  bright  and  mov- 
ing throngs  on  the  sidewalks  give  to  the  ensuing  squares  the  appearance 
of  Broadway  at  its  best.  The  office  of  the  Pkila.  Press  is  at  the  comer  of  7th 
St.,  which  diverges  to  the  r.  to  the  German  Library  and  the  Franklin  In- 
stitute, whose  library,  cabinets,  fairs,  and  courses  of  lectures  are  of  great 
influence  in  educating  the  people.  7th  St.  also  leads  S.  to  the  great  *  Penn. 
Hospital,  a  quaint  and  venerable  pile  of  buildings  281  ft.  long,  fronting 
on  Pine  St.,  over  groves  of  tall  trees.  The  lawn  is  adorned  by  a  statue 
of  William  Ponn,  and  the  hospital  contains  a  large  anatomical  museum 
and  a  medical  library  of  nearly  12,000  volumes.  The  buildings  were 
erected  between  1755  and  1805,  and  are  open  to  visitors  on  Monday  and 
Thursday  afternoons.  At  820  Spruce  St.,  on  the  Penn.  Hospital  grounds 
is  the  building  of  the  *  Historical  Society  of  Penn.  (open  from  10  a.  m.  till 

5  P.  M.). 

On  entering  the  lower  hall  there  is  seen  the  ancient  printing-press  of  the  Ger- 
man monks  of  Ephrata  ;  also  tlio  writing-desk  of  George  Washington,  a  suit  of 
armor  captured  in  Mexico  City,  and  a  model  of  the  Swamp- Angel  battery.  Sev- 
eral paintings  are  displayed  in  this  room  ;  and  the  broad  stairway  is  lined  with 
quaint  old  American  engravings.  The  main  hall  is  hung  with  scores  of  portraits 
of  ancient  worthies  of  Penn.  and  N.  J.,  among  which  are  Rev.  Israel  Acrelius, 
Provost  of  the  Swedish  Church,  by  Schuessele ;  Provost  Smith,  Benjamin  IVest ; 
Joseph  Reed,  C.  W.  Peale;  George  Washington,  Peale;  Thomas  Sergeant,  T.  B. 
Read ;  Andrew  Jackson,  Sully ;  Stephen  Decatur,  Sully ;  Antliony  Wayne, 
Rothei"mel ;  Amerigo  Vespucci,  C.  ir.  Peale;  William  Penn.  There  are  also  many 
paintings  of  places  of  historic  interest,  as  Stoke  Pogis,  Pennsylvania  Castle,  Brad- 
dock's  Field,  and  Valley  Forge.  The  room  and  the  large  bay-window  which  looks 
out  on  the  Penn,  Hospital  grounds  contain  many  mementos  of  the  old  colonial 
and  revolutionary  eras.  In  the  flre-proof  room  are  deposited,  — a  patent  of  land 
on  the  Delaware  given  by  Queen  Christina  of  Sweden  in  1653  ;  the  lirst  deed  of 
tlie  Indians  to  William  Penn,  and  the  belt  of  wampum  given  to  him  at  the  Treaty 
Elm  ;  the  Penn  MSS.  ;  129  letters  of  John  Adams,  superbly  bound  ;  the  Bradford 
Prayer  Book  of  1710  ;  the  ancient  lock  of  the  Bank  of  St.  George,  at  Genoa  ;  pikes 
made  for  John  Brown  and  for  the  Baltimore  rebels  ;  and  many  otlier  curiosities. 
Tlie  library  contains  about  20,000  volumes  ;  with  the  Potts  Papers,  giving  the 
medical  liistory  of  the  Revolutionary  War  ;  tlie  MSS.  of  Mason  and  Dixon's  sur- 
veys ;  and  1,000  official  documents  of  tlie  Frencli  Revolution.  The  Society  has 
published  many  works  relating  to  tlie  early  history  of  Penn. 

Returning  to  Chestnut  St.,  the  ultra-Gothic  front  of  the  old  Masonic 
Temple  is  passed,  and  the  Girard  House  and  the  stately  Continental  Hotel 
are  seen  near  9th  St.  At  the  N.  W.  comer  of  9th  and  Chestnut  Sts.  for- 
merly stood  the  University  of  Penn.,  on  the  ground  which  is  being  occu- 
pied by  the  new  IT.  S.  Post-Office,  a  stately  building  for  which  $  i,000,000 


272     Route  38. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


has  been  appropriated.  At  the  comer  of  10th  St.  is  an  imposing  new 
building  of  granite  in  Runaissance  architecture,  owned  by  the  N.  Y.  Mutual 
Life  Ins.  Co.  ;  N.  of  which  is  the  *  Mercantile  Library',  which  contains 
128,000  volumes,  arranged  in  open  alcoves  in  one  of  the  finest  reading-halls 
in  the  country,  adorned  with  fountains  and  covered  by  a  high  arched 
roof.  It  is  open  from  9  a.  m.  to  10  P.  m.  Opposite  the  Libraiy  is  St. 
Stephen's  Church  (Epis.),  which  is  adorned  by  the  *  monuments  of  the 
Burd  Family.  To  the  1.  on  entering  is  a  recumbent  marble  figure  (a  por- 
trait-statue) under  a  rich  Gothic  canopy;  and  in  a  chapel  on  the  N.  side 
is  a  group  of  statuary  clustered  around  a  cross.  To  the  S.  on  10th  St.  is 
the  Jefferson  Medical  College,  an  institution  of  high  reputation,  wliich 
dates  from  1825,  and  has  about  300  students.  The  anatomical  museum  is 
large  and  well  arranged.  On  Chestnut  St.,  comer  of  12th,  is  Bailey's 
jewelry  store,  in  an  imposing  marble  building  ;  and  beyond  11th  St.  is 
the  head-quarters  of  the  powerful  religious  society  called  the  American 
Sunday  School  Union,  which  was  founded  in  1817  and  has  a  wide-spread, 
and  beneficent  influence.  Near  the  comer  of  13th  St.  is  the  *TJ.  S.  Hint, 
with  a  marble  front  122  ft.  long,  and  a  fine  portico  supported  by  6  Ionic 
columns.     It  is  open  to  visitors  from  9  a.  m.  to  12  m.  daily. 

Tiie  U.  S.  Mint  was  founded  at  Philadelphia  in  1792,  since  which  it  has  coined 
over  $  800,000,000.  The  base  coins  arc  all  made  here  from  Minnesota  cojipor  and 
Penn.  nickel ;  and  the  gold  which  is  used  here  conies  mostly  from  Montana  and 
Nova  Scotia  (the  California  and  Oregon  gold  is  used  at  the  San  Francisco  Branch 
Mint).  The  present  building  was  erected  in  1833,  and  is  visited  by  30,000  persons 
annually.  As  soon  as  a  party  of  6  -  8  persons  collects  in  the  vestibule,  they  are 
led  into  the  coining-rooms  by  an  attendant,  who  describes  the  various  processes 
and  points  out  the  poAverful  and  delicate  machinery  which  is  used  in  making 
money.  The  *  numismatic  cabinets  in  the  2d  story  are  of  great  intei-est.  On  the 
1.  of  the  entrance  are  cases  containing  Oriental  and  Barbary-States  coins,  includ- 
ing those  of  the  18  Moslem  Caliphs  from  Othraan  to  Ibrahim.  In  the  first  cabi- 
net are  also  complete  collections  of  the  currency  of  Austria,  Spain,  Portugal,  and 
S.  Ameri(!a  (the  latter  are  in  the  flat  cases  in  the  centre).  On  the  sides  of  the  room 
are  rare  ores  and  minerals,  gold,  silver,  copper,  aluminum,  nickel,  asbestos,  etc., 
bright  crystals,  and  barbaric  ornaments  from  the  Gold  Coast.  On  the  E.  side  are 
Japanese  coins  of  the  square  and  round  issues,  and  a  line  of  alloyed  gold  in  grad- 
uated proportions.  Between  the  first  and  second  cabinets  are  Persian,  Bactrian, 
and  Greek  Republican  coins,  from  300  to  700  B.  C.  (on  the  1.) ;  also  a  set  of  By- 
zantines from  395  to  1448  A.  D.  In  the  cabinet  under  the  dome  are  the  moneys 
of  the  Greek  monarchies  (back  to  the  8th  century,  B.  C),  the  early  Roman  lie- 
public,  and  the  Roman  £mpire  from  222  to  475  A.  D.  ;  also  the  latest  issues 
of  France,  Great  Britain,  and  the  German  and  Italian  states.  In  the  centre  is  a 
case  containing  thousands  of  American  coins  from  the  early  colonial  era  to  the 
last  issues,  including  the  25c.  and  ^  50  gold  pieces.  In  the  passage  to  the  third 
cabinet  are  the  coinages  from  Caesar  to  Trajan,  Hadrian,  and  Elagabalus,  near 
which  is  a  coin  issued  from  the  Philadelphia  Mint  over  2,000  years  ago  (in  Asia 
Minor).  The  third  cabinet  contains  national  medals  and  tokens,  and  the  semi- 
circular case  at  the  E.  end  is  filled  with  the  rarest  and  most  curious  coins  of  all 
times  and  nations. 

Opposite  the  mint  is  the  symmetrical  white-granite  building  of  the 
Presbyterian  Board  of  Publication.  The  street  next  crosses  the  stately 
avenue  called  Broad  St.  and  passes  the  Colonnade  Hotel,  beyond  which 
long  Ihies  of  private  residences  extend  to  the  Schuylkill  River. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Route  S8.      273 


sing  new 
■.  Mutual 

contains 
Ung-halla 
;li  arched 
iry  is  St. 
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by  6  Ionic 


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the  stately 

jyond  which 


18th  St.  leads  N.  to  Logan  Square,  a  quiet  park  of  7  acres,  on  whose 
S.  side  is  WiUa*  Hospital,  a  neat  classic  building  where  patients  are 
treated  for  diseases  of  the  eye.  At  the  comer  of  Race  and  20th  Sts.  is 
the  Penn.  Institution  for  the  Blind j  a  spacious  four-story  building  150  ft. 
long,  where  blind  children  are  given  an  academic  education,  particular 
attention  being  paid  to  music,  which  is  very  successfully  taught.  On  the 
E.  side  of  Logan  Square  is  the  *  Cathedral  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  an 
imposing  example  of  Boman-Corinthian  architecture  which  was  built  be- 
tween 1846  and  1864.  The  facade  is  renowned  for  its  massive  power  and 
symmetry,  and  consists  of  a  classic  pediment  upheld  by  4  lofty  Corinthian 
columns,  flanked  by  pilastered  wings.  The  building  is  of  red  sandstone, 
216  ft.  long,  and  is  crowned  by  a  dome  210  ft.  high.  The  interior  is  cruci- 
form, and  is  adorned  with  frescos  ;  and  the  great  altar-painting  is  one  of 
the  most  brilliant  works  of  Brumidi.  N.  W.  of  Logan  Square  is  the  im- 
posing building  of  the  Preston  Retreat  (between  Hamilton,  Spring  Gar- 
den, 20th  and  21st  Sts.),  which  was  founded  by  Dr.  Preston  as  a  lying- 
in  hospital,  but  is  now  occupied  by  the  Foster  Home  for  poor  children. 
\  M.  N.  is  the  Penitentiary,  beyond  wliich  are  the  House  of  B«fuge  and 
Girard  College  (see  page  277). 

Bittenhouse  Square  is  a  short  distance  S.  of  Chestnut  St.  (by  18th 
St.),  and  is  surrounded  by  fine  residences,  the  most  noticeable  of  which  is 
that  of  the  late  Joseph  Harrison,  Jr.  (on  the  E.  side).  A  short  distance 
to  the  E.  (corner  of  Locust  and  13th  Sts.)  are  the  halls  and  library  of  the 
widely  celebrated  College  of  Physicians  (founded  in  1787),  and  at  the 
comer  of  9th  St.  is  the  Phila.  University  of  Medicine  and  Surgery.  On 
Locust  St.,  near  i6th,  is  '*  St.  Mark's  Church  (Episcopal),  a  noble  Gothio 
building  of  red  sandstone,  with  high  clerestory  and  pointed  roof  and  a 
tall  spire. 

The  marble  building  of  the  Reform,  Club  is  passed  above  15th  St.,  and 
beyond  23d  St.  Chestnut  St.  crosses  the  Schuylkill  River  on  the  finest 
iron  *  bridge  in  Z-.-^rica  (built  1861-66,  at  a  cost  of  $500,000),  and 
traverses  the  quiet  and  picturesque  residence  quarter  of  W.  Philadelphia. 
Beyond  the  Bridge  the  Junction  E.  K  is  crossed,  not  far  from  the  station 
for  N.  Y.  and  the  W.  Costly  and  elegant  villas  are  now  seen  on  either 
hand,  and  especially  to  the  S. ,  on  Walnut  St. 

The  *  University  of  Pennsylvania  is  situated  near  the  intersection 
of. Darby  Ave.  and  36th  Sts.  (W.  Phila.),  and  has  fine  buildings  of  green 
serpentine,  in  collegiate  Gothic  architecture,  whose  dim  halls  are  lighted 
by  memorial  windows  of  stained  glass.  The  building  occupied  by  the  col- 
legiate and  scientific  departments  has  260  ft.  frontage,  and  is  adorned 
with  towers  and  turrets.  Back  of  this  is  the  hosijital,  and  to  the  W.  is 
the  handsome  building  of  the  medical  college.  The  university  park  covers 
12*  R 


274     R(yiUe  S8. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


6  acres,  and  adjoins  the  Almshouse  grounds.  The  mTLMam  is  worthy  of 
a  visit,  and  the  apparatus  of  the  scientiiic  department  is  of  the  most 
delicate  and  costly  kind. 

This  institution  was  formed  in  1791  by  the  union  of  the  College  of  Fhila. 
(founded  in  1749)  and  an  older  academy,  which  dated  from  17«4  aad  was  made  a 
college  in  1755.  The  medical  college  was  founded  before  the  R(>  trolution  by  the 
eminent  physicians,  Wm.  Shippeu  and  John  Morgan,  and  now  has  a  European 
reputation,  and  is  one  of  the  leading  medical  schools  in  tho  country.  The  univer- 
sity  is  divided  into  departments  of  arts,  science,  medicine,  aud  law,  and  has  over 
80  professors  and  7  -  800  students.  The  present  buildingH  were  erected  in  1870  -  74, 
and  are  used  for  lectures,  class-rooms,  museums,  etc.,  and  the  students  board  in 
the  city.    Previous  to  1872  the  University  was  located  on  9th  St.,  near  Chestnut. 

Just  S.  of  the  University  is  the  Phila.  Aliishouse  (entrance  at  36th 
St.),  with  4  3-story  buildings,  forming  a  hollow  squai-e  each  of  whose 
sides  is  500  ft.  long.  The  main  front  is  adorned  with  a  fine  Tuscan 
portico,  supported  by  6  columns,  and  large  hospitals  and  insane  wards 
are  in  the  vicinity.  The  Almshouse  grounds  cover  187  acres,  and  slope 
down  to  the  Schuylkill  River  opposite  Gray's  Ferry.  To  the  S..E.,  and 
acroes  the  river,  is  the  *  U.  B.  Naval  Aeylnm  (Pine  St.  horse-cars),  on  the 
Gray's  Ferry  Road,  near  South  St.,  an  imposing  marble  building  380  ft. 
long,  whose  central  section  is  entered  by  a  fine  Ionic  portico,  supported 
by  8  columns.  The  ofiicial  residences  and  ancient  trophy  cannon  which 
are  seen  on  the  spacious  and  cultivated  park  are  worthy  of  notice.  There 
are  140  disabled  veterans  here,  supported  in  comfort  by  the  nation,  and 
furnished  with  abimdant  tobacco-money.  S.  E.  of  the  Naval  Asylum  is 
the  U.  S.  Arsenal,  devoted  to  making  shoes,  equipments,  and  clothing 
for  the  army.  Beyond  this  point  are  the  Harrison  Boiler  Works,  the 
Gray's  Ferry  Chemical  Works,  and  other  manufactories.  In  this  vicinity 
is  the  fine  viaduct  of  the  Junction  R.  R.,  and  the  South  St.  Bridge  crasses 
the  Schuylkill  above  the  Asylum. 

Woodland  Cemetery  is  S.  W.  of  the  University,  and  fronts  on  the 
Schuylkill  near  Gray's  Ferry.  The  portal  is  a  lofty  pile  of  granite,  sup- 
ported by  4  Doric  colunms,  and  a  curving  road  leads  to  the  fine  old 
mansion  which  hence  overlooks  the  river.  The  *  Drexel  mausoleum  is 
the  finest  in  the  country,  and  is  massively  built  of  white  marble  in  chaste 
classic  architecture.  The  Moore  monument  is  worthy  of  note,  and  is 
adorned  with  statuary.  A  tall  obelisk  has  been  erected  to  the  memory 
of  Com.  Charles  Steward,  U.  S.  N.,  and  an  exquisite  little  monument 
covers  the  remains  of  Lieut.  Greble  of  the  U.  S.  Artillery,  who  was  one 
of  the  first  to  fall  in  the  Secession  War.  Darby  Ave.  nms  S.  W.  from 
Woodland  to  the  vicinity  of  the  Mount  Moriah  Ce*  tery,  which  has 
pleasant  scenery  along  Cobb's  (or  Rinkermink)  CrecK.  The  Episcopal 
Divinity  School  is  situated  in  the  old  AUibone  mansion  (co.ner  of  Walnut 
and  S9th  Sts. ).  The  Fenn.  Hospital  for  the  Insane  is  still  farther  out  in 
W.  Phila.  (reached  by  Market  St.  cars),  and  consists  of  2  large  buildings, 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Moia$  38.      275 


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430  ft  long,  sitnated  in  finely  adorned  grounds  covering  113  acres.  The 
Hospital  accommodates  500  patients,  and  is  skilfully  conducted.  Here 
is  kept  Benjamin  West's  great  picture  of  *  **  Christ  healing  the  Sick.'* 
Visitors  are  admitted  every  day  except  Saturday  and  Sunday  (tickets  at 
the  Ledger  office).  A  little  over  j^  M.  N.  W.  of  the  Hospital  is  the  Cathe- 
dral Cemetery,  containing  43  acres,  and  used  by  the  Roman  Catholics* 
Near  this  point  is  St.  John's  Orphan  Asylum,  and  to  the  N.  W.  is  Heston- 
ville  station,  on  the  Penn.  B.  R. 

Broad  St.  is  one  of  the  chief  thoroughfares  of  the  city,  and  is  15  M. 
long  and  113  ft.  wide,  maintaining  a  course  of  undeviating  straightaess. 
It  begins  on  the  S.  at  League  Island^  a  low  tract  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Schuylkill  and  Delaware  Rivers,  which  was  given  by  the  city  to  the 
United  States,  by  whom  it  has  been  fitted  for  a  first-class  naval  station. 
About  3  M.  N.  of  the  island  the  street  reaches  the  Baltimore  Bepot, 
and  the  superb  new  Ridgway  Library  (which  cost  9 1,500,000).  At  the 
comer  of  Pine  St.  is  seen  the  Penn.  Deaf  and  Dumb  Institution^  which 
was  founded  in  1821,  and  accommodates  150  students.  It  has  a  substan- 
tial granite  building  235  ft.  long,  and  is  patronized  by  the  States  of  Md., 
N.  J.,  and  Del.  At  the  comer  of  Spruce  St.  is  the  fine  green  serpentine 
building  of  the  ♦  Beth-Eden  Baptist  Church,  beyond  whic'a  is  the  Horti- 
cultural  Hall,  famous  for  its  annual  floral  shows.  Just  N.  is  the  spa- 
cious Palladian  building  of  the  *  Academy  of  Music,  whose  magnificent 
auditorium  seats  2,900  persons,  and  is  the  largest  opera-house  in  America. 
Beyond  the  Academy  is  the  Union  League  house,  a  costly  Ronaissanoe 
building  with  rich  interior  decorations,  paintings,  statuary,  etc.  It  is  the 
seat  of  the  Union  League,  which  was  formed  in  1862  to  aid  the 
national  govemment  during  the  Secession  War.  The  League  raised  10 
regiments  of  soldiers,  circulated  2,600,000  Union  documents,  and  carried 
the  State  for  the  Republican  party.  It  now  has  over  1,800  members.  An 
introduction  from  a  member  entitles  a  stranger  to  the  privileges  of  the 
building  for  one  month. 

Beyond  the  La  Pierre  House  Broad  St.  crosses  Chestnut  St.  and  passes 
(by  two  classic-fronted  Presbyterian  churches)  to  Penn  Square,  on  which 
the  immense  and  imposing  building  of  the  *  City  Hall  is  being  erected. 
This  edifice  is  of  white  marble,  470  X  486^  ft.  in  area,  and  covers  4^  acres. 
It  will  be  six  years  in  constmction,  and  will  cost  over  $  10,000,000, 
There  will  be  520  fire-proof  rooms  connected  by  four  elevators  (one  in  each 
corner)  and  six  broad  stairways.  The  building  will  be  crowned  by  a  mas- 
sive tower  and  dome  over  300  ft.  high,  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Wil- 
liam Penn ;  and  many-columned  pavilions  break  the  continuity  of  each 
front.  The  fa9ades  toward  the  inner  court-yard  (which  is  200  ft.  square) 
are  adorned  with  mediaeval  turrets. 


i^, 


J2^^»t 


276     Route  SS. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


i 


Here  Broad  St.  is  intersected  by  Market  St.^  the  main  thoroughfare  of 
the  wholesale  trade  and  heavy  transportation.  To  the  r.,  near  12th  St., 
are  the  freight-depots  of  the  Peuu.  R.  R.,  and  also  the  great  buildings 
of  the  Fanners*  Market.  To  the  1.,  on  Market  St.,  is  the  Polytechnic 
CoUege  (W.  of  17th  St.),  a  prosperous  scientific  institution  with  5  tech- 
nical schools.  On  the  W.  of  Penn.  Square  is  the  School  of  Design  for 
women,  intended  for  the  teaching  of  meclianical  drawing  ;  and  one  square 
W.  (comer  of  Filbert  and  16th  St.)  is  the  State  Arsenal,  containing  also 
the  Soldiers'  and  Sailors'  Home,  with  its  library.  To  the  E.  (Filbert  St. 
below  12th)  is  the  Homoeopathic  Medical  College,  and  the  College  of 
Pharmacy  (the  first  in  the  U.  S  )  is  near  7th  St. 

The  new  *  Xasoiiio  Temple  is  on  Penn  Square  (comer  of  Broad  and 
Filbert  Sts. ),  and  is  an  imposing  structure  of  granite,  in  pure  Norman 
architecture.  It  was  completed  in  1873,  and  is  of  wonderful  solidity  and 
strength.  The  main  tower  is  250  ft.  high,  and  is  adomed  with  quaint 
turrets  of  unequal  altitude,  and  the  Temple  fafade  is  a  bold  and  stately 
piece  of  architecture,  with  round-arched  windows  and  a  massive  flanking 
tower.  The  *  Porch  is  of  Quincy  granite,  and  is  enriched  with  all  the  re- 
sources of  the  Norman  style,  in  zigzag,  billet,  and  chevron  ornaments, 
and  heavy  round  columns.    The  Temple  cost  $  1,800,000. 

The  Main  Hall  is  a  vestibule  350  ft.  long,  paved  with  colored  marble,  and  cnn- 
stnicted  in  Doric  architecture.  The  Grand  Banqueting  Hall  is  105  x  60  ft.  in 
area,  and  is  adomed  by  Corlnthi&n  colonnades.  The  Orie^ital  Hall  is  on  the- 
first  floor,  aivl  is  a  brilliant  example  of  Saracenic  ai-chitecture,  frescoed  in 
arabesque  designs.  The  Corinthian  Hall  (105  x  51  ft.)  is  occupied  by  the  Grand 
Lodge,  and  is  constructed  in  the  rich  Corinthian  style,  with  furniture  of  walnut 
and  cedar  and  blue  velvet.  The  Grand  Chapter  Hall  (90  x  50  ft.,  50  ft.  high)  is  in 
Italian  Renaissance  architecture,  with  inlaid  furniture  and  rich  symbolisms,  the 
chief  of  which  is  the  Veils  of  the  Temple  (containing  1,200  yards  of  French  satin). 
The  Egyptian  Hall  is  of  marvellous  solidity,  and  is  surroiinded  by  12  elephantine 
columns,  whose  capitals  are  copies  of  those  found  in  the  temples  of  the  Nile.  The 
panels  are  enriched  with  Eg3rptian  emblems  (the  cobra,  lotus,  etc.),  and  the  fur- 
niture is  of  gilded  ebony  covered  with  black  and  gold  tapestry.  The  Ionic  Hall  is 
chiiste  and  KracefUl,  surrounded  by  24  columns,  and  furnished  with  inlaid  woods 
covered  with  blue  and  gold  tapestry.  The  Norman  Hall,  the  great  Gothic  cham- 
ber of  the  Asylum  of  the  Commanderies,  the  Red  Cross  Chamber  (with  its  guarded 
tents),  the  Library,  and  the  Regalia  Room  are  all  worthy  of  inspection. 

Adjoining  the  Temple  is  the  graceful  cruciform  white  marble  Arch-St. 
M.  E.  Churc'  ycosting  1 250,000),  purely  Gothic,  with  a  spire  233  ft.  high. 
The  Lutheran  Church  of  the  Holy  Communion  is  opposite,  and  is  of 
green  serpentine,  inflonu.  Gothic  style,  with  great  stained-glass  windows,  a 
sumptuous  altar,  and  a  massive  and  imposing  tower.  Opposite  St.  John's 
is  the  plain  and  spacious  brown-stone  First  Baptist  Church  (Dr.  G.  D. 
Boardman),  with  a  spire  225  ft.  high.  At  the  corner  of  Cherry  St.  is  the 
florid  Academy  of  the  Fine  Arts  (costing  $400,000),  with  Gothio.  windows 
and  terra-cotta  ornaments.  Here  are  rich  art-collections,  ma''bles,  casts, 
and  lecture-rooms,  with  painting  and  sculpture. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Jtoute  SS.    27G  a 


jhfare  of 
12th  St., 
buildings 
dytechnic 
h  5  tech- 
)e8ign  for 
»ne  square 
iuing  also 
FUbert  St. 
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Broad  and 
•e  Norman 
olidity  and 
rith  quaint 
and  stately 
ve  "flanking 
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ornaments, 

t)le,  and  c<,n- 
5  X  50  ft.  in 
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»y  the  Grand 
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bolisms,  the 
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uid  the  fur- 
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The  *  Penniylvania  Academy  of  the  Fine  Arts  (entrance,  25c. )  is  at 
the  comer  of  Broad  and  Cherry  Sts.,  and  was  dedicated  in  April,  1876, 
having  coxt  $  400,000.  The  building  is  260  X  100  ft.  in  area,  and  is  built 
of  brick  and  stone,  in  florid  Byzantine  architecture,  profusely  adoi-ned 
with  colored  tiles.  Over  the  main  portal  is  a  colossal  marble  statue  of 
Ceres,  brought  from  Greece  by  Com.  Patterson.  The  entrance-hall  fs 
brilliantly  ornamented,  and  contains  30  pillars  of  polished,  marble.  The 
rooms  on  the  lower  story  are  devoted  to  gratuitous  art-education,  with 
lecture  and  modelling  rooms,  studios,  and  casts.  The  second  story  is  in 
three  longitudinal  sections,  of  which  that  on  the  r.  is  reserved  for  the 
great  annual  exhibitions.  The  central  corridor  is  devoted  to  statuary, 
and  contains  W.  W.  Story's  Jerusalem  ( "  How  doth  the  city  sit  solitary 
that  was  full  of  people  ;  how  is  she  become  as  a  widow  ") ;  Lombardi's 
Deborah  ;  Spring,  by  i?.  D.  Palmier;  Hero  and  Leander,  by  Steinkauscr; 
Penelope,  by  Rinaldini;  and  others.  In  a  bvotd  cential  expansion  is  the 
immense  group  of  the  Battle  of  the  Centaurs  and  Lapithse,  by  Lough. 

The  Gilpin  Gallery  is  in  the  N.  W.  part  of  the  building,  and  contains 
6  marble  statues  copied  from  the  antique,  and  copies  of  paintings  by 
Domenichino,  Raphael,  Murillo,  Titian,  Salvator  Rosa,  Andrea  del  Sarto, 
Guido,  Claude,  and  Correggio.  The  remainder  of  the  pictures  belonging 
to  the  Academy  are  in  the  S.  galleries.  They  vary  widely  in  merit,  and 
have  recently  suffered  from  injudicious  cleaning  and  restoration.  Tho 
Benjamin  West  Gallery  contains^  Paul  and  Silas,  and  also  *  Death  on  tho 
Pale  Horse,  famous  works  of  West.  The  other  galleries  on  the  S.  contain 
numerous  pictures,  and  are  named  in  honor  of  the  early  American  paint-  • 
ers,  —  Washington  Allston,  Charles  R.  Leslie,  Gilbert  Stuart,  Thomas 
SuUj'^,  and  John  Neagle. 

The  Phillips  Collection  of  prints  was  bequeathed  to  the  Academy  by  Mr.  John 
S.  Phillips,  who  has  spent  thirty  yeai"s  in  gathering,  classilying,  and  properly  ar- 
ranging it.  There  are  about  TiO.OOb  pictures  by  2,000  difl'erent  engravers,  many  of 
them  being  very  rare  and  valuable.  The  painters'  etchings  are  of  especial  interest 
to  artists  and  students.  This  collection  is  superior  to  the  Tosti  and  Gray  Collec- 
tions of  Boston  and  Cambridge. 

The  *  Academy  of  Natural  Scienoes  has  a  new  fire-proof  building  at 
the  corner  of  19th  and  Race  Sts.,  fronting  on  Logan  Square.  It  is  con- 
structed of  green  serpentine  and  Ohio  stone,  in  Collegiate  Gothic  archi- 
tecture, and  is  spacious  and  well-arranged,  containing  studios,  reading- 
rooms,  laboratories,  and  a  library  of  over  25,000  volumes.  Agassiz  said 
of  this  museum  that  it  was  one  of  the  finest  anatomical,  physical,  and 
natural-science  collections  in  the  world. 

It  contains  over  250,000  specimens,  — among  which  are  Dr.  Morton's  collection 
of  crania,  1,200  in  number;  Mexican  and  Peruvian  human  and  animal  mummies; 
270  skeletons ;  31,000  bii-ds,  of  all  classes  and  climes  (the  Iai*gest  ornithological 


mmmmmmi 


276  6  JtouUSS, 


PHILADELPHIA. 


mnseuin  In  the  world);  1,170  varieties  of  flshei;  OOOTnatnmals;  SOOreptUes;  70,000 
varieties  of  plants;  '25,000  of  insects;. 5,000  oi  minerals;  and  05,000  of  lossils. 
The  collection  of  shellH  contains  over  100,000  specimens,  and  is  only  excelled  by 
that  in  the  British  MuHeum.  All  these  great  collections  are  arranged  in  orderly 
sequence  and  in  a  convenient  manner  for  the  student  The  Academy  was  founded 
in  1812,  and  remained  at  the  corner  of  Broad  and  Sansoni  Uts.  from  1842  until 
1876.    It  is  open  to  the  people  on  Taesday  and  Friday  afternoons  (tee,  lOc.X 

The  *  Toang  M^'i  Chriitian  Aisooiation  Building  is  at  the  comer 
of  Chestnut  and  15th  Sts.,  opposite  the  Colonnade  Hotel,  and  is  a  large 
and  imposing  stnicture  of  Ohio  sandstone,  trimmed  with  rose-crystal  mar- 
ble. The  arcliitecture  is  moditied  Venetian,  massively  treated,  and  the 
general  effect  is  bold  and  striking.  The  area  of  the  building  is  72  X  230 
ft.,  four  stories  high,  with  a  tower  153  ft.  high.  It  contains  a  library, 
reading-room,  chapel,  and  other  halls,  to  which  young  men  are  welcomed. 
The  society  was  formed  in  1854,  and  occupied  this  building  iu  the  sum- 
mer of  1876. 

The  Baptist  Fnblioation  House  is  on  Cliestnat  St.,  near  Broad  St., 
and  is  46  X  230  ft.  in  area,  of  chaste  and  dignified  semi-classiu  architec- 
ture, the  material  being  unpolished  white  marble. 

The  Alhambra  Palace  has  been  built  by  the  Kiralfys,  at  a  cost  of 
$  450,000,  for  a  summer  theatre.  It  is  on  Broad  St.,  near  Locust,  and  has 
a  picturesque  iron  front,  in  Saracenic  architecture,  richly  painted  and 
adorned.  Adjacent  is  a  concert-garden  600  ft.  square,  ornamented  with 
statuary,  cascades,  and  grottos. 

The  Colosseum  adjoins  the  Alhambra,  and  was  formerly  In  New  York  City. 
^  It  is  a  cylindrical  iron  building  129  ft  in  diameter  and  ItiO  feot  liigh,  witti  a  steam 
elevator  ascending  the  central  tower,  wlience  a  broad  view  is  gained.  Tiie  build- 
ing contains  the  cyclorania  of  Paris  by  moonlight,  covering  40,000  square  feet  of 
canvas,  and  shown  as  in  a  bird's-eyo  view  from  near  the  Place  de  la  Concorde. 
The  effect  is  highly  realistic  and  very  beautiful 

The  *  Bidgway-Library  building  is  at  the  comer  of  Broad  and  Chris- 
tian Sts. ,  and  is  now  externally  completed.  The  grounds  cover  an  entire 
square,  in  whose  centre  on  a  terrace  stands  the  building,  resembling  an 
Athenian  temple.  The  area  is  220  X  105  ft.,  and  the  cost  has  been 
$  1,500,000.  The  material  is  light-colore(^  granite,  and  the  front  is  com- 
posed of  a  central  portico,  with  a  classic  pediment  upheld  by  8  Doric 
columns  (30  ft.  high),  flanked  by  wings  (reading-rooms),  each  of  which 
has  a  portico  supported  by  4  columns.  The  main  library-hall  is  cruci- 
form, with  24  Ionic  columns  of  polished  marble.  The  ^^  "isoleum  of  Dr, 
Kush  is  opposite  the  main  entrance ;  and  in  the  cok  ^ed  Memorial 
Koom  are  his  personal  effects.  y 

Dr.  James  Rush  died  in  1869,  leaving  an  immense  fortune  for  the  construction 
of  this  building,  which  was  to  be  named  Ridgway  from  his  wife's  maiden  name. 
If  the  Philadelphia  Library  Company  will  accept  the  restrictions  in  his  will,  the 
structure  will  be  appropriated  to  their  use ;  otherwise  a  new  firee  library  will  b« 
opened  here. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Route  38,      277 


Spring  Garden  St.  is  a  wide  avenue,  with  a  parked  centre,  which  inter* 
sects  Broad  St.  Betwt^en  Callowiiill  and  Spring  Garden  Sts.  (I.  bide)  are 
the  Baldwin  Locomotive  Works,  the  largest  in  the  world  (employing 
3,000  men) ;  and  the  vicinity  of  the  Reading  R.  R.  track  is  filled  with 
iron-works  and  taotories,  chief  among  which  are  the  Norris  Locomotive 
Works,  tellers'  Machine-Tool  Works,  and  the  great  machine-shops  of  W. 
B.  Bement  &  Son.  The  terminal  station  of  the  Phila.  &;  Reading  R.  R.  is 
at  the  comer  of  Broad  and  Callowhill  Sts.  At  the  comer  of  Broad  and 
Green  Sts.  is  the  Central  High  School^  opposite  a  fine  Norman  Church 
(Presbyterian).  The  next  building  is  the  Jewish  *  Synagogue  Rodef 
Shalom^  a  quaint  and  imposing  structure,  exemplifying  the  richness  of 
Saracenic  architecture.  The  front  portal  is  especially  striking,  and  rests 
on  massive  polished  columns.  At  the  comer  of  Green  and  ISth  Sts. 
is  the  new  and  attractive  Norman  building  of  the  Central  Congregational 
Church. 

At  the  comer  of  Brood  St.  and  Fairmount  Ave.  Ridge  Ave.  turns  N.  W., 
running  to  Laurel  Hill.  Fine  city  mansions  are  now  seen  on  either  side, 
and  attractive  churches,  the  best  of  which  is  the  Church  of  tfie  Incarna- 
tion (comer  of  Jefferson  St.),  built  of  granite  in  Gothic  architecture. 
At  the  comer  of  Columbia  Ave.  and  13th  St.  is  the  Wagner  Free  Institute 
of  Science.  Broad  St.,  between  Fairmount  and  Columbia  A ves. ,  is  a  favor- 
ite place  for  driving  ;  and  beyond  the  Avenue  Broad  St.  mns  N.  through 
rural  districts,  soon  passing  the  Moniimeritai  Cetnetery,  a  crowded  bury- 
hig-ground  which  was  founded  in  1837,  and  was  designed  to  be  "  the 
American  Pere  la  Chaise."  In  the  centre  is  a  tall  granite  obelisk,  in  honor 
of  Washington  and  Lafayette. 

Fairmount  Ave.  leads  from  Broad  St.  to  the  Eastern  Penitentiary 
(near  21st  St.),  a  castellated  structure,  where  nearly  400  convicts  from 
the  R  comities  are  guarded,  on  the  separate  system.  The  prison  consists 
of  7  cell-lined  halls,  radiating  from  a  central  corridor  which  commands  a 
view  through  each  of  them,  and  is  situated  on  a  tract  of  11  acres,  sur- 
rounded by  a  massive  wall  30  ft.  high.  It  cost  S  600,000,  and  was  finished 
in  1829.  Fairmount  Ave.  passes  to  Fairmount  Park  in  4  squares,  and 
Corinthian  Ave.  rans  N.  to  Girard  College,  near  which  (Poplar  and  23d 
Sts.)  is  the  House  of  Refuge,  a  great  pile  of  buildings  used  for  the  deten- 
tion and  reclamation  of  young  criminals  and  vagi'ants.  E.  of  this  point 
is  a  reservoir  which  contains  37,600,000  gallons  of  water,  and  supplies  4 
wards  of  the  city. 

Oirard  College  is  about  2  M.  N.  W.  of  Independence  Hall  (by  Ridge- 
Ave.  cars),  and  occupies  42  acres  of  high  land,  surrounded  by  a  grim  wall 
of  masonry.  Th?  *  *  central  building  is  probably  the  grandest  existing 
specimen  of  the  Corinthian  temple-architecture,  and  presents  an  imposing 
front  on  every  side.    It  is  of  white  Penu.  and  Mass.  marble,  218  X  160  ft. 


278      Hcnite  S8. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


|K 


in  area,  and  97  ft.  high,  and  is  of  remarkable  massiveness  and  solidity. 
The  cella  (169  X  111  ft.)  is  surrounded  by  a  broad  Miarble  platform  from 
'Which  rise  lofty  fluted  columns,  surrounding  the  b'lildmg  and  upholding 
a  graceful  cornice  and  pediment.  Ti.o  columns  are  34  in  number  (8  at 
each  end  and  11  at  each  side),  each  of  which  is  composed  of  12  pieces 
(6  ft.  in  diameter),  weighs  103  ton^,  nad  cost  $  13,000.  The  capitals  show 
all  the  richness  of  the  Corinthian  ord^r  ;  and  the  platforms  are  approached 
by  lines  of  marble  steps  which  surround  the  building.  The  spacious  halls 
at  the  N.  and  S.  ends  are  paved  with  marble,  and  rest  over  strong-arched 
crypts.  Tliey  are  supported  by  lines  of  Ionic  and  Corinthian  colunms  and 
antee;  and  the  cornices  over  thr^  main  portals  are  made  of  single  blocks 
of  marble,  each  of  which  is  25  ft.  long.  Inside  the  S.  entrance  (facing 
Corinthian  Ave. )  is  a  quaint  statue  of  Stephen  Oirard,  beneath  which  his 
remains  are  buried.  The  grand  stairways  lead  off  to  r.  and  1.,  and  are 
massively  built  in  geometric  style.  They  lead  to  the  class-rooms  and 
museums  of  the  college  on  the  floors  above.  The  library  (5-6,000  vol- 
imies)  is  to  the  r.  of  the  statue ;  and  on  the  upper  floor  is  a  museum  of 
the  antique  personal  effects  of  Mr.  Girard.  Still  fartlier  up,  by  a  narrow 
and  sinuous  stairway ,  is  the  roof,  a  vast  plain  of  marble  joined  with  nicest 
skill  and  supported  on  brick  arches.  This  fine  piece  of  masonry  weighs 
906  tons.  A  broad  view  of  Phila.  is  afforded  from  the  roof,  including  the 
Penitentiary,  the  hills  of  Fairmount,  the  numerous  spires  of  the  churches, 
and  glimpses  of  the  Delaware.  W.  of  this  building  is  a  *  monument  to  the 
men  of  the  college  who  fell  in  the  Secession  War,  —  consisting  of  a  statue 
of  a  soldier,  standing  on  a  lofty  inscribed  pedestal,  and  sheltered  by  a 
classic  canopy  which  bears  the  State  and  national  arms  and  is  supported 
by  4  fluted  Doric  colunms.  On  either  side  are  plain  marble  buildings 
"which  are  used  for  dormitories,  refectories,  and  professors'  residences. 
Extensive  grounds  are  reserved  for  the  sports  of  the  students. 

Stephen  Girard,  "mariner  and  merchant," was  bom  at  Bordeaux  in  1750,  and 
became  a  common  sailor  in  1764.  In  1773  he  was  a  sea-captain ;  and  in  1777 
settled  in  Phila.  as  a  merchant.    He  died  in  1831,  leaving  9  7,500,000,  of  which  he 

fave  $300,000  to  the  State,  $116,000  to  various  charities,  and  $500,000  to  the  city, 
esides  vast  amounts  left  in  trust  for  the  municipal  police  and  other  improve- 
ments. He  loft  $  2,000,000  and  45  acres  of  land  for  the  endowment  of  a  college 
for  poor  white  male  children  without  fathers  and  between  6  and  10  years  of  age. 
Such  children  are  supported  here  for  8  years  and  are  instructed  from  the  alphabet 
up  to  the  grade  of  high-school  studies.  He  forbade  the  entrance  of  clei-gymen  to 
the  college-grounds  under  any  pretext,  and  this  prohibition  is  still  enforced. 
Permits  to  visit  the  college  should  be  obtained  at  the  hotels  or  of  one  of  the  Di- 
rectors. There  are  now  over  500  students  in  the  instil  ution,  with  20  teachers. 
Thomas  U.  Walter  was  the  architect  of  the  college  buildings. 

The  Female  Medical  College  of  Penn.  is  on  ^.  College  Ave.,  at  the  cor- 
ner of  22d  Street.,  and  is  the  first  medical  school  ever  established  for 
women. . 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Route  38.      279 


Dd  solidity, 
tfonn  from 
1  upholding 
umber  (8  at 
>f  12  pieces 
ipitals  show 
)  approached 
[>aciou8  halls 
trong-arched 
columns  and 
tingle  blocks 
ranee  (facing 
ith  which  his 
i  1.,  and  are 
lis-rooms  and 
;6-6,000vol- 
a  mtlseum  of 
,  by  a  narrow 
ed  with  nicest 
asonry  weighs 
including  the 
the  churches, 
nument  to  the 
ng  of  a  statue 
leltered  by  a 
is  supported 
•ble  buildings 
•s'  residences. 


iix  In  1750,  and 
I ;  and  ill  1777 
i)0,  of  which  ho 
loOOtothccity, 
lother  iiuprove- 
tnt  of  a  college 
io  years  of  age. 
[in  the  alphabet 
V  clergymen  to 
1  still  enforced. 
1  one  of  the  Di- 
20  teachers. 


at  the  cor- 
Itablished  for 


shipmen  at  New 
briquet  of  **0' 
Old  Swedes'  CI 
St.  near  Christi 


The  old  Navy  Yanl  wns  in  the  8.  E.  part  of  Phila.,  but  nearly  all  its 
material  has  been  renioveil  to  the  new  U.  8.  Navy  Yard  at  League  l8l> 
and,  7  M.  S.  of  Chestnut  St.,  whore  there  are  vast  woikshops,  barracks, 
arsenals,  artillery-parks,  and  costly  dry-docks,  with  iron-clads  and  frig- 
ates moored  in  the  stream.  At  the  old  yard  the  line-of- battle  ship 
Pennsylvania  was  launched  in  1837,  in  tlie  presence  of  100,000  peo- 
ple. She  carried  140  cannon,  and  her  mainmast  was  250  ft.  high.  At 
one  of  the  piers  is  the  frigate  Constitution,  the  most  renowned  vessel  of 
the  American  Navy.  During  the  War  of  1812  she  captured  the  Java, 
the  Guerriire,  the  Macedonian,  and  other  fine  British  frigaic.,,  u,;l  was 
ever  victorious.    Of  1  ite  years  she  has  been  used  as  a  school-^ -iv*  .for  .id- 

jid  Annapolis,  and  is  widely  known  iriar  iho  ^ou- 
ifles."  Just  above  the  Navy  Yard  u  the  quaint 
lied  by  2d  and  3d  St.  cars),  fronting  on  Otsego 
lis  venerable  structure  was  built  ir  1700  on  the 
site  of  the  fortihc  i  log-cliurch  of  1677,  and  was  attended  by  the  Swedes 
who  occupied  Phila.  before  Penn  and  the  Quakers  arrived.  In  its  mossy 
old  graveyard  is, the  tomb  of  Alexander  Wilson,  the  great  ornithologist, 
who  travelled  all  over  the  continent  getting  materials  for  his  work  on 
American  birds,  which  appeared  in  9  volumes  (1808-13).  Wharton  St. 
leads  W.  from  the  Navy  Yard  to  the  Moyamensing  PriioxL  (of  Phila. 
County),  an  imposing  building  of  Quincy  granite,  with  several  towers  and 
long  lines  of  battlements.  The  old  Debtors'  Prison  is  to  the  N.,  and  is  a 
red  sandstone  building  in  EgyptiaQ  architecture.  A  few  squares  N.  E. 
(Catherine  St.,  near  7th)  is  the  House  of  Industry,  a  cluster  of  charitable 
offices  in  the  poorest  part  of  the  Moyamensing  district. 

Below  the  Navy  Yard  are  the  extensive  terminal  wharves  of  the  Penn. 
R  R.,  delivering  freight  on  the  margin  of  deep  water.  Above  the  Navy 
Yard  are  other  crowded  railroad-wharves.  At  the  foot  of  Almond  St.  is 
the  lofty  building  of  the  Franklin  Sugar  Refinery,  and  the  busy  river- 
front extends  N.  by  numerous  wharves,  passing  the  great  oyster-depots  at 
the  foot  of  Spruce  St.,  and  the  fruit-sheds  at  Dock  St.  Near  the  foot  of 
Green  St.  the  river  bends  to  the  N.  E.,  and  Beach  St.  passes  the  great 
lumber-wharves  at  the  foot  of  Coates  and  Poplar  Sts.,  and  approaches  the 
network  of  tracks  (occupying  1  M.  of  river-front  at  Richmond)  where  the 
Reading  R.  R.  reaches  tide-water  and  discharges  millions  of  tons  of  coal 
yearly,  freighting  large  fleets  of  coasting-schooners  and  propellers.  The 
Kensington  district  is  also  famed  for  its  ship-yards,  where  are  made  the 
largest  iron-steamers,  for  ocean  service.  At  the  comer  of  Front  and 
Laurel  Sts.  are  the  Keystone  Saw  Works,  covering  8  acres,  employing  900 
men,  and  making  5  tons  of  edge-tools  daily.  On  the  r.  side  of  Beach  St., 
N.  -of  Columbia  St.  (reached  by  2d  and  3d  St.  cars),  is  the  monument 
which  occupies  the  place  of  the  Old  l^reaty  Elm,  under  whose  branches 


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23  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14S80 

(716)872-4503 


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280     MouUSSr 


PHILADELPHIA. 


William  Penn  made  with  the  Indian  chiefs  the  famous  treaty  of  fraternal 
love,  *'  the  only  one  ever  made  without  an  oath,  and  the  only  one  never 
broken."  In  the  N.  part  of  Kensington  (at  the  comer  of  Front  and  Hun- 
tington Sts.)  is  the  *  imposing  pile  of  i.3w  buildings  in  Norman  architec- 
ture which  contains  the  Hospital  of  the  Episcopal  Church  in  Phila.,  where 
patients  are  admitted  without  regard  to  creed  or  coldr.  Hourly  horse- 
cars  run  from  Richmond  to  Bridesburg  and  Frankford. 

•  Fairmount  Park. 

This  noble  garden  of  the  people  lies  along  the  banks  of  the  Schuylkill  Biverand 
the  Wissahickon  Creek,  in  the  N.  W.  part  of  the  city  proper.  It  was  opened 
(with  70  acres  area)  in  1866,  since  which  large  sumS  have  been  spent  in  adorn- 
ment and  in  enlarging  the  bounds,  until  now  it  is  the  largest  city  park  in  the 
Vorld.  Fairmount  covers  2,991  acres ;  the  Vienna  Prater,  2,500 ;  Richmond  Hill, 
2,468  :  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  2,158  ;  Hampton  Court,  1,872  :  Windsor  Great  Park, 
1,800 ;  Phoenix  (Dublin),  1,752 ;  Central  (New  York),  862 ;  Druid  Hill  (Baltimore), 
VOO  ;  Prospect  (Brooklyn),  630. 

Fairmount  is  reached  by  the  9th  St.  horse-cars  from  the  Continental  Hotel  in 
80  min.  ;  also  by  the  Arch  St.  line,  the  Vine  St.  line,  and  others.  The  Bidge  Ave. 
cars  run  to  the  upper  end  of  the  Park,  and  visitors  can  reach  this  point  from  any 
part  of  the  city  by  means  of  transfer-tickets  on  the  horse-cars.  The  Reading  R 
B.  sends  trains  to  Fairmount,  Columbia  Bridge,  and  Belmont :  the  Norristown 
B.  B.  stops  at  Wissahickon  and  Chestnut  Hill,  and  the  Penn.  B.  B.'  stations  of 
Mantua  and  Hestonville  are  near  the  S.  border.  Park-carriages  traverse  the  most 
interesting  districts,  stalling  from  the  Fairmount  entrance  (50c.  for  the  round  trip 
in  the  E.  or  W.  Park ;  9 1.50  for  1  person  per  hour,  and  25c.  for  each  additional 
person).  Small  steamers  run  on  the  river  from  the  water-works  to  Bockland,  Bel- 
mont, Laurel  Hill,  and  the  Schuylkill  Falls  (16  trips  daily ;  fare,  up  and  back, 
25c.).  Batteaux  may  be  hired  cheaply  for  trips  on  the  water, — for  the  Schuylkill 
near  the  carriage-stand  at  Fairmount ;  for  the  Wissahickon,  at  Wissahickon  Hall 
or  Maple  Spring.  IMstances*  —  Fairmount  to  the  Girard  Avenue  Bridge,  1  M. ; 
Lansdowne,  2^  ;  George's  Hill,  S^  ;  Belmoht,  3^;  Mt.  Prospect,  4^  -  6 ;  the  Falls 
(Biver  Boad),  4^  ;  the  Falls  (George's  Hill),  6^ :  the  Wissahickon,  by  the  E.  Bank. 
4  (by  George's  Hill,  7^ ;  bv  the  Biver  Boad,  6i) ;  Fainnonnt,  by  the  E.  Bank  to 
Maple  Spring.  5^  M. ;  the  Pipe  Bridge,  8^ ;  Indian  Bock,  9} ;  Chestnut  Hill,  11^. 

Th»graceM  mystery  of  skating  is  much  practised  on  the  Schuylkill  during 
winter,  under  protection  of  the  Phila.  Skating  Club.  The  summer  regattas  of  the 
Schuylkill  Navy  are  worthy  of  notice,  and  the  Music-days  draw  great  multi- 
tudes to  the  Park.  (The  Editor  recommends  C.  S.  Keyser's  "  Fairmoimt  Park  '* 
as  the  best  guide-book  and  souvenir  of  this  great  rus  in  urbe.) 

FAIRMOU^fT  Park  includes  2,991  acres  along  the  Schuylkill  River,  ex- 
tending up  the  stream  for  7  M.  ;  and  450  acres  along  the  Wissahickon  for 
6  M.  The  Schuylkill  (from  the  Dutch  Sculk,  hiddeu,  and  Kill,  creek,  so 
named  on  account  of  its  half-concealed  efflux  into  the  Delaware)  has  an 
avenge  width  of  J  M.,  with  high  and  picturesque  banks.  The  main 
entrance  to  the  Park  passes  a  terraced  hill,  which  was  named  Faire- 
Mount  nearly  2  centuries  ago.  It  now  contains  the  4  reservoirs  (covering 
6  acres  and  12  ft.  deep)  of  the  city  water-works,  with  a  capacity  of  about 
27,000,000  gallons.  Tlie  Schuylkill  water  is  collected  behind  a  dam 
1,600  ft.  long,  and  is  forced  up  into  the  reservoirs  by  a  powerful  system 
of  works,  which  are  operated  by  water-wheels.  Philadelphia  has  been 
supplied  with  this  water  for  75  years,  and  it  is  said  to  be  purer  than  the 
waters  which  are  used  in  New  York  and  London.    The  fouling  of  the 


PHILADELPHIA. 


RoiUe  S8.      281 


Schnylkill  by  the  erection  of  factories  along  its  banks  has  now  been 
prevented  by  the  city's  right  of  eminent  domain  throughout  the  Park, 
and  the  remaining  aiills  on  the  Wissahickon  will  be  removed  at  the  expi< 
ration  of  a  few  years.  The  reservoir  is  surrounded  by  a  broad  gravelled 
walk,  and  commands  a  pleasant  view,  including  the  lower  portion  of  the 
Park,  the  white  temple  of  Oirard  College,  and  the  dense  lines  of  the  city 
streets.  The  Wire  Bridge  crosses  the  Schuylkill  near  this  point,  and  be- 
tween  Fairmount  and  the  river  are  some  indifferent  pieces  of  statuary, 
and  the  old  engine-houses  of  the  water-works.  Just  N.  of  the'resbrvoln 
is  a  small  fire-proof  building  containing  a  fine  public  art-gallery. 

The  chief  attraction  is  the  imniense  picture,  *The  Battle  of  Gettysburg,  painted 
by  Rolhermel  ("  the  American  Rubens  ^')  at  the  order  of  the  State  of  Penn.  This 
has  been  called  the  finest  battle-piece  of  ancient  or  modem  times,  and  is  remarlc- 
able  also  for  its  historic  accuracy.  Near  by  are  4  smaller  paintings  by  the  same 
master,  representing  episodes  in  the  battle,  —  the  Charge  of  the  Penn.  Reserves 
at  Little  Round  Top,  the  Death  of  Reynolds,  the  Repulse  of  the  Louisiana  Tigers, 
and  the  Repulse  of  the  Maryland  Brigade  fh>m  Gulp's  Hill.  At  the  opposite  end 
of  the  hall  is  Benjamin  West's  great  painting,  *  Christ  Rejected  by  the  Jewish 
People.  Among  the  other  pictures  are  portraits  of  Longfellow  and  Holmes ;  the 
Holy  Family ;  a  View  of  Ancient  Fairmount ;  several  pictures  of  dogs  and  game ; 
Marine  View,  Moran;  the  Dulce  of  Guelder's  Cruelty  to  his  Father,  Wittkamp; 
Jephtha's  Daughter ;  Death  of  Sir  Philip  Sidney ;  Patrick  Henry  addressing  the 
House  of  Burgesses,  Rothermel;  *  Christian  Martyrs  in  the  Coliseum,  Bothermtl; 
and  a  great  allegorical  painting  of  the  New  Republic,  by  Pauwda. 

Beyond  this  point  the  road  leads  out  on  an  open  plaza  which  is  adorned 
with  a  colossal  bronze  *  statue  (in  a  sitting  posture)  of  Abraham  Lincoln, 
designed  by  Randolph  Rogers,  and  cast  at  Munich.  It  is  on  a  tall  granite 
pedestal,  on  which  are  inscribed  some  of  the  immortal  words  of  the 
martyr-president.  On  the  Tiver-front>  above  the  steamboat  landing,  are 
the  graceful  boat-houses  of  the  Schuylkill  Navy,  an  ancient  rowing  asso- 
ciation composed  of  10  clubs,  with  4-500  members  and  nearly  70  boats 
(valued  at  $100,000).  This  is  the  most  complete  and  best  organized 
society  of  the  kind  in  the  world,  and  has  exciting  regattas  during  the 
summer.  The  Mineral  Spring  is  N.  of  the  Plaza,  and  is  covered  by  a 
neat  pavi^on.  The  waters  are  chalybeate,  and  many  visitor^  drink  of 
them  during  the  summer.  Beyond  the  Plaza  the  luad  ascends  the  slopes 
of  Lemon  Hill,  which  is  crowned  by  a  fine  old  mansion  (now  used  as  a 
restaurant)  situated  among  stately  trees. 

Robert  Morris,  the  Patriot  Financier  and  the  rieht  arm  of  Washington,  lived 
in  his  mansion  on  Lemon  Hill  firom  1776  to  1798.  He  was  a  member  of  Congress 
and  a  signer\>f  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  and  often  replenished  the  empty 
treasury  of  the  army  at  critical  moments  by  pledging  his  personal  credit.  He  paid 
off  th(B  murmuring  army  before  the  victory  at  Trenton,  and  raised  ij^  1,400,000  to 
equip  the  forces  on  their  way  to  the  final  campaign  of  Yorlctown.  He  was  U.  S. 
Senator,  1789  -  95,  and  declined  the  secretaryship  of  the  treasury ;  but  became  in- 
volved in  vast  land  speculations,  wrecked  his  fortune,  and  in  his  65th  year  was 
put  in  prison  for  debt.  There  he  remained  for  4  years,  and  died  4  years  after  hi9 
release.  His  estate,  "The  Hills,"  was  bought  by  Henry  Pratt,  who  laid  out 
beautiful  gardens  and  named  it  Lemon  HilL    It  was  acqtdred  by  the  city  in  1837. 


282      RouU  38. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


The  road  passes  on  'to  the  bluffs  of  Sedgdey,  which  look  across  the 
Schuylkill  to  the  groves  of  The  Solitude.  On  this  hill  are.  the  remains  of 
a  fort  which  was  built  during  the  Secession  War  for  tl  ;  defence  of  the 
city  (while  the  rebels  were  marching  through  Penn.).  Near  this  point  is 
the  small  wooden  cottage  which  was  used  as  Grant's  head-quarters  at 
City  Point,  Ya.  The  road  now  descends  to  the  stately  Girard  Avenue 
Bridge,  above  which  is  seen  the  massive  stone  viaduct  of  the  Connect- 
ing Railroad  (travei'sed  by  through  trains  from  New  York  for  the  West 
or  South).  Near  this  point  are  the  Egyptian  buildings  of  the  Schuylkill 
Water -Works,  whose  capacity  is  23,000,000  gallons  a  day  (supplying  5 
wards  of  the  city  from  a  reservoir  124  ft.  high,,  containing  9,800,000  gallons). 
Crossing  the  bridge,  and  turning  to  the  1.,  the  visitor  reaches  Egglesfiddf 
where  in  1732  was  located  the  club-house  of  the  merry  fishing-club  called 
"  The  Colonic  in  Schuylkill "  (now  "  The  State  in  Schuylkill,"  and  located 
near  Gray's  Ferry).  Beyond  this  is  The  Solitude,  a  villa  which  was  built 
in  1785  by  John  Penn,  the  poet  (and  grandson  of  William  Penn).  This 
estate  was  bought  by  the  city  a  few  years  since,  and  was  the  last  remnant 
owned  by  the  Penn  family  of  that  great  State  which  once  was  theirs. 
Near  these  grounds  is  seen  the  lofty  stand-pipe  of  the  W^  Philadelphia 
water-works,  which  is  130  ft.  high,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  circular  stair- 
way.   It  is  now  used  as  a  public  observatory. 

The  *  Zotf  logical  Gardens  are  near  the  Girard  Avenue  Bridge,  and  con- 
tain a  lai^e  invoice  of  animals  from  the  Rocky  Mts.  and  Western  Amer- 
ica, including  moose,  black-tailed  deer,  elk,  wolves,  grizzlies,  brown, 
black,  and  cinnamon  bears,  catamounts,  golden  eagles,  cross  and  silver 
foxes,  etc.  There  are  also  buffalo,  beaver,  American  lions,  and  panthers; 
and  a  large  assortment  of  European  animals  are  to  be  added  in  due  time. 
The  'Lansdovme  Read  passes  to  the  N.  imder  the  massive  arches  of  the 
railway  viaduct,  and  enters  the  old  Stoeet  Brier  estate,  which  is  now  fitted 
up  for  the  Children's  Play-Ground. 

Samuel  Bbeck  was  bom  in  Boston,  July  17, 1771,  and  was  educated  at  the 
French  Royal  Military  College  of  Sor^ze  (i^  xguedoc).  He  buili  the  Sweet 
Brier  mansion,  and  lived  here  for  88  years,  en  '  in  public  11  le  and  the  cultiva- 
tion of  his  model  estate.  While  a  child  he  t  .  ueard  the  cannonade  at  Bunker 
Hill,  and  at  a  later  day  he  stood  before  Washington  in  Phila.  In  1861  he  wel- 
comed President  Lincoln  to  the  city,  and  he  died  'n  the  darkest  hour  of  the 
Secession  War  (Sept.  1, 1862),  his  last  words  being  "  What  of —my  country?" 

.  Beyond  Sweet  Brier  the  pleas'iui;  road  reaches  a  rustic  bridge  over  the 
Lansdovme  Ravine,  commanding  a  beautiful  view  up  the  river.  Still 
farther  on  the  road  reaches  the  cluster  of  venerable  pine-trees  at  the 
Lansdovme  Concourse. 


hostile  to  the  cause  of  American  Independence,  and  their  public  estate  was  con- 
fiscated by  Congress,  being  "  the  largest  one  ever  sequestered  in  civil  war."    The 


PHILADELPHIA. 


JttmUSS.     283 


ftinily  claimed  95,000,000  compensation  from  the  British  govenmient,  and  ?«• 
ceived  an  annuity  of  920,000,  besides  a  gift  of  9650,000  dollm  firom  the  State  of 
Fenn.  Lansdowne  was  inhabited  for  a  time  by  ex-king  Joseph  Bonaparte,  and 
was  i^rwards  owned  by  Lord  Ashburton. 

The  road  now  passes  the  Michaox  grove  of  oaks,  and  ascends  to  fho 
concourse  on  George*!  Hill,  whence  is  obtained  a  charming  *  view  of 
the  Park,  the  river,  and  the  city,  over  which  are  the  white  colonnades  of 
Oirard  College.  This  ancestral  estate  (83  acres)  was  presented  to  the 
city  by  Jesse  and  Rebecca  Oeorge,  two  venerable  Friends.  The  grounds 
extending  S.  E.  from  George's  Hill  nearly  to  Sweet  Brier  were  used  for 
the  v.  S.  Centennial  Ezpoeition  of  1876. 

Between  Jjansdowne  and  George's  Hill  the  road  passes  a  bronze  group 
representing  wolves  quarrelling  over  the  body  of  a  deer,  and  Stauch's 
bronze  statue  of  Night  is  on  George's  Hill,  near  the  pavilion.  Lofty  ob- 
servatorius  have  been  erected  on  Lemon  Hill  (225  ft.  high),  George's  Hill 
(250  ft.),  and  at  Belmont,  whence  noble  views  are  gained  over  the  Park 
and  city.  The  first  two  cost  $  150,000.  Visitors  are  carried  to  their  tdpa 
by  steam  elevators  (fee,  25c.). 

A  road  runs  N.  K  from  Greorge's  Hill  by  the  Belmont  Reservoir 
(35,800,000  gallons)  to  the  Belmont  Maneion  (*  Proskauer's  Restavrant), 
which  was  erected  in  1745,  and  was  often  visited  by  Washington,  Lafayette, 
Franklin,  Morris,  Jefferson,  Adams,  Luzerne,  Talleyrand,  Louis  Philippe, 
Joseph  Bonaparte,  and  many  other  distinguished  men.  The  proprietor. 
Judge  Richard  Peters,  was  an  eminent  jurist,  author,  and  patriot,  and 
was  Secretary  of  War  from  1776  to  1781.  The  *  view  from  this  mansion 
is  one  of  the  noblest  in  the  Park.  The  road  now  passes  the  Bdmoni  Olen, 
a  picturesque  ravine  on  the  W.  side  (leading  to  the  Belmont  sta- 
tion of  the  P.  &  R.  R.  R.).  Just  S.  W.  of  the  station  is  Tom  Jioore^s 
Cottage^  where  the  poet  of  love  dwelt  and  wrote  some  beautiful  poems, 
among  which  was  the  one  beginning,  — 

**  Alone  by  the  Schnylkill  a  wanderer  roved. 
And  dear  were  the  flowery  banlu  to  liii  eye." 

The  River  Road  runs  thence  N.  E.  1  M.  to  the  Falls  Bridge,  passing  the 
Schuylkill  viaduct  of  the  Reading  R.  R.  The  road  on  the  heights  trav- 
erses Ridgeland  beyond  Belmont,  then  passes  the  Mt.  Prospect  mansion 
and  the  lake  and  concourse  of  Chamouniy  and  reaches  the  Fallf  Bridge. 

The  road  on  the  E.  bank  beyond  the  Girard  Avenue  Bridge  passes 
through  a  broad  tunnel  under  Promontory  Point,  and  crosses  the  ravine 
below  Fountain  Green.  This  shore  is  higher  and  bolder  than  that  on  the 
W.,  and  has  preserved  more  of  it«  natural  form.  The  Mount  PUagant 
Mansion  is  near  the  Columbia  Bridge,  and  is  a  stately  old  colonial  house 
dating  from  1761.  It  was  bought  by  Benedict  Arnold  in  1779,  and  waa 
confiscated  after  his  treason.    General  Steuben  then  occupied  the  estate. 


284     nauteSS, 


PHILADELPHIA. 


il  i   ' 


The  road  now  passes  the  Bockland  mansioii  and  the  old  estates  of  Belle- 
ville  (steamboat  landing),  Ormiston,  Edgeley,  and  Woot^ford.  The  latter 
mansion  was  built  in  1742.  Beyond  Strawberry  Hill  the  road  lies  close 
to  the  river,  with  Laorel  Hill  Cemetery  on  the  r.,  and  soon  reaches  the 
FalU  o/Schuylkillf  a  busy  factory-village  amid  picturesque  surroundings, 
with  several  old  hotels  which  are  famous  for  their  "  catfith  and  coffee." 
The  Bidge  Boad  now  approaches  Bari'en  Jlilly  whence  Lafayette  made  a 
masterly  retreat,  with  2,200  men,  from  the  inidst  of  heavy  conveigiug 
British  columns.  Part  of  the  Battle  of  Gennantown  was  fought  on  this 
line. 

The  *  Wisialiiokoii  is  a  romantic  stream  which  here  diverges  to  the 
K.  and  is  enclosed  within  the  Park  for  7  M.  Its  banks  are  high,  rugged, 
and  well  wooded;  and  a  pleasant  road  follows  the  up  course  of  the  de- 
scending waters,  and  passes  several  sequestered  inns  which  furnish  '^  cat- 
Jsh  and  coffee,  wines  and  ices."  Beyond  the  Maple  Spring  a  lane  leads 
ia  the  Hermit's  Well,  above  which  is  a  sharp  rock  200  ft.  high,  known 
as  the  Lover's  Leap.  ^  M.  above  the  Log-Cabin  are  the  cascades  at  the 
mouth  of  Paper-Mill  Bun,  near  which  is  the  house  where  David  Bitten- 
house,  the  great  astronomer,  was  bom  (in  1732).  ^  M.  beyond  the  Bed 
Bridge  is  the  lofty  palisade  called  Mom  RwMe'a  Jiock,  in  memory  of  an 
ancient  tradition  of  its  occupation  by  a  weird  woman  who  "  drank  dew 
from  acorn-cups,  and  had  the  evil  eye."  ^  M.  beyond,  high  over  a  sharp 
bend  in  the  road,  is  a  venerable  stone  building  called  The  Monaftery, 
where,  over  a  century  ago,  a  band  of  €krman  mystics  came  in,  and 
watched  and  waited,  with  dim,  quaint,  religious  rites,  until  they  passed 
into  the  silent  land.  The  road  now  passes  the  Caves;  and  a  short  distance 
beyond  the  Pipe  Bridge  is  seen,  with  2  20-inch  mains  conducting  water 
to  Germantown,  Across  the  bridge  above  the  Pipe  Bridge  a  pathway 
leads  to  the  dark  basin  on  Cresheim  Creek  called  the  DeviVa  Pool.  The 
road  soon  opens  out  to  Valley  Qreen^  with  its  favorite  hotel ;  and  \  M. 
beyond  it  passes  a  marble  fountain  basin.  1  M.  from  Valley  Green  the 
lofty  Indian  Rock  is  seen  on  the  E.  towering  over  a  deep  and  solemn 
gorge.  In  this  vicinity  lingered  the  last  Indian  band  in  this  region.  1  M. 
beyond  this  point  the  road  ascends  to  the  villas  of  Chestnut  Hill,  beyond 
the  Park. 

*  Laurel  Hill  Cemetery  adjoins  the  upper  part  of  Fairmount  Park, 
and  may  be  reached  by  the  Bidge  Ave.  horse-cars.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
spacious  and  beautiful  cemeteries  in  the  country,  and  is  especially  inter- 
esting from  Its  fine  views  over  the  Schuylkill,  and  from  the  diversified 
character  of  its  undulating  surface.  The  entrance  is  of  brown-stone,  in 
Doric  architecture,  and  is  supported  by  8  columns.  Near  this  portal  is  a 
group  in  sandstone,  executed  by  Thorn,  ftnd  representing  Old  Mortality 
with  his  pony^  and  Sir  Walter  Scpt|, 


IL. 


'cotcan 
•  XiOwynedd 


PHILADELPHIA 

•UKKOUIIDIIIQS 


'^HFt.Wubliigti 

BandrliiinX  ^    . 

VpreUmd 

-^■^  Edge  HIU 


Kosxxraowv 

bnaholiocken^^^^v  o Old Torl^BoMlX  X, 

Spriiijrl«D[^\^         nV^ni        I  \    T       Will  li    I     I 

W.PhiladeJphia^a^ 

"-"TTerrj. '^  '  '  '  " 

V 


..^ 


/^Ue: 


farkTine^,X^L 
^^^  flMantna 


Woodbury  .1 


OERlfANTOWN. 


lUmUSS,     285 


To  the  r.  !•  the  ehapel,  a  pUtn  Oothlo  bnilding,  near  which  !•  the  grare  of  Gen. 
Hugh  Mercer,  who  fell  at  Frinoeton  (lee  page  Ml).  Under  the  blulb  (110  ft  high) 
which  here  line  the  river-bank,  is  the  vault  of  Dr.  Kane,  the  Arctic  explorer,  and 
also  the  tall  monolithic  obelisk  over  the  remains  of  Charles  Thomson,  Becretarr 
of  Congress  from  1774  to  1789,  "  the  Bam  Adams  of  PhUa.,  the  life  of  the  cause  of 
liberty."  Among  the  eminent  men  buried  here  are  Com.  Isaac  Hull,  captor  of 
the  OuerrUre  (under  a  monument  resembling  tlutt  of  Scipio,  upon  which  an  eagle 
keeps  guard):  Hassler,  the  director  of  the  U.  B.  CkMst  Burvev;  Com.  Alex. 
Murray,  of  the  Mexican  and  Secession  Wars  :  Thomas  Oodt'rey,  uie  inventor  of 
the  quadrangle  ;  Judge  Robert  T.  Conrad,  the  author ;  Oen.  Patterson :  Admiral 
Lavallette,  of  the  Mexican  War ;  Joseph  8.  Lewis,  the  projector  of  the  Fairmount 
Water- Works ;  Joseph  C.  Neal,  the  humorist  (author  of  "  Charcoal  Sketches  ") ; 
and  Dr.  R.  M.  Bird,  the  novelist  The  new  monument  to  Miss  Bailey,  constructed 
of  polished  Scotch  granite,  is  worthy  of  attention :  also  the  recently  erected  bronse 
memorial  statues,  in  the  lower  part  of  the  grounds.  The  trees  of  Laurel  Hill  are 
justly  celebrated,  and  include  several  fine  cedars  of  Lebanon.  The  mausoleum 
of  Louis  A.  Oodey  is  a  massive  structure  of  white  marble,  in  Egyptian  architecture. 

Near  Laurel  Hill,  and  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Schuylkill,  is  West  Laurel 

Mill,  a  new  cemetery,  containing  110  acres.    The  Mt.  Vernon  Cemetery 

is  near  Laurel  Hill,  on  Ridge  Ave.,  and  has  a  stately  pyramidal  mau- 

soleum  adorned  with  groups  of  symbolic  statues.    Olentoood  Cemetery 

contains  21  acres,  and  is  on  Ridge  Ave.,  near  Islington  Lane,  which  leads 

N.  £.  to  the  spacious  Odd  Fellowtf  Cemetery  (32  acres). 


Oermantown  may  be  visited  either  by  horse-cars  (passing  through  the 
German  village  of  Nicetown),  or  by  the  railroad  from  the  comer  of  9th 
and  Green  Sts.  It  is  6  M.  N.  of  Chestnut  St,  and  forms  the  22d  Ward 
of  the  city.  Along  Germantown  Ave.  are  several  ancient  colonial  houses, 
with  the  small  mercantile  stores  of  the  suburb.  This  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  residence-quarters  in  America,  and  has  long  quiet  streets  lined 
with  fine  villas  and  pretty  churches.  Among  the  older  buildings  are 
shown  Cheto's  Hotise  (where  the  American  army  was  checked),  Washing- 
ton's Head-quarters  (on  Market  Square),  and  the  ancient  Button-Ball  Tree 
Tavern.  This  village  was  settled  in  1684  by  (Germans  from  Cresheim,  on 
5,700  acres  of  land,  which  Pastorius  bought  of  Willir<  r.  Penn  at  a  shilling 
an  acre.  Rittenhouse  St.  leads  down  from  the  m&;r  avenue  into  the 
quiet  recesses  of  the  Wissahickon  Valley,  near  Mom  Rinkle's  Rock;  and 
Germantown  Ave.  and  the  Rnilroad  run  N.  W.  by  Mount  Airy  to  the 
pleasant  and  wealthy  village  of  Chestnut  Hill,  a  favorite  place  of  resi- 
dence for  city  merchants,  and  situated  near  the  end  of  Fairmotmt  Park. 

The  Battle  of  Germantown  was  foiight  Oct.  4,  1777.  After  Gen.  Howe  had 
flanked  Washington  and  captured  Phila.,  his  main  division  encamped  at  German- 
town,  where  it  was  attacked  by  surprise  about  daylight,  and  was  thrown  into 
great  confUsion.  Line  alter  line  gave  way  liefore  the  impetuous  rush  of  the  Amer- 
icans, and  for  a  time  it  seemed  that  the  British  army  would  be  destroyed.  But 
Col.  Musgrave  and  5  companies  of  the  40th  took  refuge  in  Chew's  large  stone 
house,  and  effectually  checked  the  victorious  army.  The  house  was  cannonaded 
without  effect,  and  meanwhile  the  retreating  troops  had  been  rallied  and  rein- 
forced, and  attacked  the  Continentals,  who  were  enveloped  in  a  dense  fog,  and 
were  repulsed  in  detail.  Washington  now  commanded  a  retreat,  after  2^  hours  of 
fighting,  in  which  he  had  lost  over  1,000  men.  The  British  loss  was  535.  The 
Americans  then  went  into  'jamp  on  the  hek;hts  beyond  Wh'temarsh,  6  M.  from 
Mount  Aiiy,  and  6  weeks  later  retired  to  Valley  Forge,  19  M.  beyond. 


i  ( 


286     RouU  38. 


CAMDEN. 


At  ffdnusburg  is  the  new  Home  of  Correction,  a  vast  pile  of  stone 
buildings  (witli  8  extensive  wings),  containing  2,000  cells,  and  estimated 
to  cost  9 1,000,000.  Brideshurg  is  the  seat  of  great  cotton-mills,  which 
were  occupied  during  the  Secession  War  for  the  manufacture  of  arms.  A 
short  distance  from  this  point  is  the  Frankford  Arianal,  a  military  post 
of  the  (J.  S.  (visitors  admitted  during  daylight).  There  are  62^  acres  of 
grounds,  on  which  are  long  lines  of  cannon-balls,  with  a  few  pieces  of  brass 
artillery.  This  arsenal  is  devoted  to  the  manufacture  of  fixed  ammunition 
for  the  U.  S.  army  ;  and  one  of  the  buildings  can  turn  out  1,000,000  car- 
tridges a  day.  All  the  ammunition  for  the  national  armies  is  made  here; 
and  during  a  great  part  of  the  Secession  War  work  never  ceased  here,  be- 
ing carried  on  by  alternating  gangs  of  men  through  Sundays  and  holidays 
and  night  and  day.  N.  W.  of  Frankford  is  the  stately  building  of  the 
Friends*  Lunatic  Asylum,  near  the  banks  of  Tacony  Creek. 

Camden  ( W.  Jersey  Hotel)  is  a  city  of  New  Jersey,  opposite  Phila., 
from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Delaware  River.  It  is  situated  on  a 
level  plain,  and  has  several  new  streets  occupied  by  the  residences  of 
Phila.  merchants.  There  are  26,000  inhabitants,  with  17  churches  and  3 
newspapers.  There  are  4  steam-ferries  to  Phila. ;  and  a  bridge  is  pro- 
jected, —  to  be  120  ft.  above  the  river  and  to  cost  $2,000,000.  Besides 
being  the  terminus  of  several  railroads,  Camden  is  enriched  by  large 
manufactures,  especially  those  of  iron,  glass,  and  chemicals.  There  are 
extensive  ship-yards  here;  and  Esterbrook  &  Co.'s  steel-pen  manufactory 
is  the  largest  of  the  kind  in  the  U.  S.  The  rural  districts  near  the  city 
are  occupied  by  fruit  and  vegetable  gardens,  which  supply  Phila.  with 
market-produce.  In  the  W.  part  of  the  city  are  the  county  buildings, 
near  which  are  2  soldiers'  monuments.  W.  of  the  Court  House  is  a  fine 
Catholic  church;  and  a  pleasant  residence-quarter  extends  to  the  N. 
Camden  is  a  city  of  the  19th  century,  at  whose  beginning  there  were  here 
only  a  few  fishermen's  cabins  and  a  farm-house.  In  1830  the  population 
was  1,987;  in  1870  it  was  20,045 ;  and  in  1874  (estimated),  26,000. 
Windmill  Island  is  in  the  Delaware  River,  opposite  Camden,  and  was  in 
ancient  times  joined  to  the  N.  J.  shore.  It  was  formerly  used  as  a  place 
of  execution  for  pirates ;  and  in  1837  a  canal  was  cut  through  for  the 
passage  of  vessels. 

Just  below  Phila.,  and  near  League  Island,  is  Fori  Mifflin  (46  guns), 
opposite  which  is  Red  Bank  (in  N.  J.),  where  may  be  seen  the  remains  of 
old  Fort  Mercer,  the  Whitehall  mansion  (built  in  1748),  and  the  graves  of 
many  soldiers  and  of  the  Count  Donop.  In  the  N.  outworks,  near  the 
river,  is  a  marble  monument,  erected  in  honor  of  ^he  victory  won  here. 

In  the  fall  of  1777,  after  the  British  occupatiou  of  Phila.,  Gen.  Howe  determined 
to  open  the  communication  with  the  sea  by  capturing  the  American  works  which 
then  commanded  the  river.  Fort  Mercer  was  garrisoned  by  the  1st.  and  2d  B.  I. 
regiments,  under  Lt-CoL  Oreene;  Fort  Mifflin  (on  Mud  Island)  was  held  by  the 


BED  BANK. 


XouU39,      287 


M«7l«Bdllne:  md  •  imall fleet dtftadtd  the  dUvrnw df  A<m in  the rlter.  Tte 
American  works  at  Billingiport  were  carried  by  storm,  and  the  hostile  fleet  and 
army  advanced  aininst  Red  Bank.  Count  Donop  erected  a  battery  near  Fbrfe 
Mercer,  and  senf  tno  summons :  "  The  King  of  England  orders  his  rebellions  sab> 
Jects  to  lay  down  their  arms ;  and  theyare  warned  that.  If  they  stand  the  battle, 
no  qnurtors  whatever  will  be  given."  The  intrepid  Greene  sent  back  reply :  "  We 
ask  no  quarters,  nor  will  we  give  any."  After  a  sharp  cannonade.  1,200  picked 
Iloasians  advanced  to  storm  the  works,  and  had  reached  the  moat  when  a  scathing 
flro  of  grape-shot  and  musketry  was  opened  upon  them,  and  forced  them  to  give 
way.  A  second  Hessian  division  at  the  same  time  attacked  the  fort  on  the  8.. 
and  its  bravest  leaders  reached  the  summit  of  the  narapet,  but  were  there  out 
down,  and  the  remaining  assailants  were  put  to  flight.  The  American  artillery 
wiM  directed  by  the  French  engineer.  Chevalier  Manduit,  and  did  terrible  execu- 
tic  1 1  The  garrison  lout  88  men ;  and  the  Hessians  lost  400,  including  their  chief. 
Count  Donop,  who  was  extricated  fh>m  a  heap  of  dead  soldiers,  and  soon  died, 
saying,  "  It  is  finishing  a  noble  career  earlv,  but  I  die  the  victim  of  my  ambition 
and  of  the  avarice  of  my  sovereign."  Meantime  the  British  fHgates  had  ap* 
proached  Fort  Mercer,  but  were  beaten  off  by  the  American  gun-boats.  The  next 
mom)ng  a  doterniined  naval  attack  was  made,  and  was  as  fiercely  met.  The  flrlg- 
ato  Augusta,  of  &i  guns,  was  set  on  fire  bv  a  hot  shot,  and  soon  blew  up ;  and  the 
Merlin,  IH,  siieedily  met  the  same  fate.  The  remainder  of  the  hostile  fleet  dropped 
down  the  river  in  great  haste,  badly  shattered  bv  the  guns  of  the  forts  and  of 
Com.  Ilazlewood's  flotilla.  In  November  the  British  erected  a  line  of  heavy  bat* 
tories  near  Fort  Mifflin,  and  brought  up  a  fleet  carrying  8&8  guns,  with  which  a 
continuous  bombardment  was  carried  on  for  6  days  and  nights.  On  the  16th,  the 
Jrl8,  Someratt,  Fury,  Vigilant,  Roebuck,  and  other  fHgates,  anchored  where  their 
yard-arms  almost  overhung  the  fort :  and,  with  the  land-batteires,  opened  a  ter- 
rific fire  upon  the  crumbling  ramparts.  With  marvellous  heroism  the  800  Maiy- 
landers  in  the  works  kept  t^p  a  steady  fire,  i^ntil  every  gun  was  dismounted,  260 
of  their  number  were  killed  or  wounded,  and  the  palisades  and  parapets  were 


levelled  with  the  earth.  1,000  shot  and  shell  were  hurled  into  Fort  Mifflin  within 
a  few  hours ;  and  at  midnight  the  few  survivors  of  the  garrison  fled  firom  the 
corpse-strewn  ruins  to  Fort  Mercer.  Comwallis  soon  advanced  against  the  latter 
work,  and  it  was  evacuated  bv  the  handful  of  troops  who  remained.  Of  the  47 
small  vessels  of  the  American  fleet,  17  were  burnt  at  Gloucester,  and  the  remain- 
der crept  by  Fhila.  at  night  and  reached  the  upper  Delaware.  Thus  closed  what 
may  perhaps  be  considered  the  most  heroic  and  Spartan-like  defence  in  the  annals 
of  America. 

99.  Philadelphia  to  Hew  Tork. 

By  the  Camden  &  Amboy  B.  R.  (pertaining  to  the  Penn.  B.  B.)  to  B.  Amboj, 
and  thence  by  steamboat  to  K.  Y.  Some  trains  on  this  line  reach  N.  Y.  by  waj 
of  Trenton,  Monmouth  Junction,  or  Perth  Amboy,  and  thence  on  Route  87. 

Stations.  —  Philadelphia  ;  Camden,  1  M.  :  Fish  House,  6 ;  Palmyra,  8j^ ; 
Riverton,  9  ;  Riverside,  12^ ;  Delanco,  13 ;  Beverly,  15§  ;  Ed^water,  16 ;  Bur- 
lington, 1^  :  Stevens.  18| :  Florence,  23 ;  Kinkora,  25 ;  White  Hill,  27 ;  Borden- 
town,  28  (Trenton,  34):  Yardville,  81 ;  Newtown,  34J;  Windsor,  37J;  Hightstown, 
41 :  Cranberry,  44 ;  Prospect  Plains,  46 :  Jamesbuig,  48^  (Dayton,  52 ;  Monmouth 
Junction,  54) ;  Spottswood,  62 ;  Old  Bridge,  54| ;  S.  Amboy,  62 ;  New  York,  93. 

The  passenger  leaves  the  foot  of  Market  St.  and  crosses  by  ferry-boat 
to  the  Amboy  station  in  Camden,  whence  the  train  passes  out  through 
the  city,  and  runs  N.  £.  by  several  suburban  stations.  Oossing  the 
Rancocas  Creek,  the  train  passes  Delanco,  and  stops  at  Beverly  ( Wash- 
ington, Hoiue),  a  recent  and  populous  village,  with  5  churches  and  a  U. 
S.  Hospital.  4  M.  beyond  this  point  the  train  reaches  Burlington  (Bur- 
lington House  ;  Washington  ;  Belden),  a  river  city  of  5,817  inhabitants, 
with  9  churches,  and  broad  straight  streets.  Fronting  on  the  river  are 
the  buildings  of  Bwrlington  College  (founded  by  the  Episcopalians  in 


288     ItauUS9, 


BORDENTOWN. 


I    :i 


^i» 


1846)  ftnd  SL  MaryU  EaXU  The  Dekware  it  1  M.  wide  at  tliii  point, 
and  on  the  opposite  shore  is  the  Penn.  hamlet  of  Brutol.  Burlington  is 
the  seat  of  large  preserving  establishments,  and  has  a  branch  R.  R.  to  Mt 
H0II7  (7  M.),  and  daily  steamboats  to  Philadelphia  (19  M.).  The  city 
was  founded  by  Quakers  in  1667,  and  was  bombarded  by  British  gunboats 
in  1776  and  1778.  The  train  now  runs  N.  E.  by  Kinkora  (whence  a 
branch  line  diverges  to  New  Lisbon)  to  Bordontown  {Bordentoum  House  ; 
AmeiHean),  a  city  of  over  6,000  inhabitants,  with  8  churches,  a  female 
coU^e,  and  the  N.  J.  Collegiate  Institute.  It  is  the  seat  of  several  large 
foundries  and  machine-shops,  and  has  the  terminal  basins  of  the  Delaware 
and  Raritan  Canal.  The  railroad  passes  below  the  level  of  the  streets, 
which  are  on  a  plain  elevated  65  ft.  above  the  Delaware.  Many  Phila- 
delphians  seek  summer  rest  here,  attracted  by  the  neatness  of  the  city 
and  its  pleasant  environs. 

Bordentown  was  settled  at  an  early  date  byJoseph  Borden,  and  was  plundered 
in  1778  by  a  British  naval  expedition  fh>m  Phila.  In  1816  it  was  chosen  as  a 
home  by  the  ex-Icing  Joseph  Bonaparte,  and  here  he  lived  for  28  years,  occupying 
a  mansion  in  a  broad  and  spacious  parlc. 

The  train  runs  over  Crosswicks  Creek,  and  passes  Yardville,  Newtown, 
and  Windsor,  beyond  which  the  Pembertown  &  Hightstown  R  R.  comes 
in  from  the  S.,  and  HigkUUmn  (locally  famous  for  its  classical  schools)  la 
entered. 

A  branch  R  R  mns  N.  W.  from  Jmm«sb«irs  to  MonmovXK  Jundion,  on  the 
N.  T.  Div.  of  the  Penn.  R  R  The  Freehold  &  Jaraesbuig  R  R.  runs  8.  B.  to 
the  ocean  in  88  M.  (8  hours).  Stations,  Lower  Jamesburg,  Manalapan,  and 
Treeliold  (American  House;  Wauhington),  the  capital  of  Monmouth  County, — 
a  pleasant  village  with  4,231  inhabitants,  8  academies,  and  6  churches.  The 
SeAUe  of  Monmouth  was  fought  on  June  28, 1778^  near  the  village  of  Freehold.  Sir 
Henry  Clinton  was  retreating  fh>m  Phila.  to  N.  Y.,  and  was  closely  followed  by 
the  American  army.  His  choice  troops  were  disposed  in  the  rear-guard,  and  the 
baggage  was  hurried  on  in  advance.  Early  on  the  hot,  dry  muming  of  June  28, 
the  American  vanguard,  under  Lee,  Lafayette,  and  Wayne,  assailed  the  royalist 
forces,  and,  for  a  time,  gained  decided  advantages ;  but  Lee  ordered  an  unaccount- 
able retreat,  which  resulted  in  a  panic-struck  flight,  through  which  the  hostile 
grenadiers  rushed  cheering.  When  the  routed  vanguJard  reached  the  main  army, 
Washington  gave  Lee  a  stinging  rebuke,  and  drew  up  the  forces  in  order  of  battle. 
The  troops  of  the  van  were  again  put  to  flight,  and  the  enemy  attacked  the  centre 
and  right  wing  of  the  army.  The  grenadiers  charged  in  beautiful  order,  but  their 
commander  and  ofllcers  were  pick^  off  by  Wayne  s  riflemen,  and  Knox's  batteries 
kept  up  a  continuous  fire  with  great  precision.  The  British  then  fell  back  rap- 
idly, pursued  by  the  Continentals,  and  encamped  on  the  heights.  Every  prepara- 
tion was  made  to  renew  the  action  on  the  following  morning,  but  during  the  night 
the  enemy  retreated  noiselessly  and  escaped.  The  Americans  lost  228  men,  and  the 
British  lost  about  800.  Lee  was  court-martialled  and  suspended  fTom  the  service 
(after  challenging  Washington  to  a  duel)  for  his  very  equivocal  conduct  in  the 
early  part  of  the  battle. 

Beyond  Freehold  the  branch  line  runs  8.  E.  across  a  thinly  settled  region  of 
pine-plains  (of  sinister  fame  during  the  Revolutionary  era  as  sheltering  bands  of 
desperate  banditti).  At  Farmingdale  the  N.  J.  Southern  R  R.  is  crossed,  and 
the  slow-moving  train  passes  on  to  the  old  marine  hamlet  of  S^tan  and  the  ocean- 
viewing  beach  of  Sea  Girt,  —  a  quiet  summer  resort,  with  several  boarding-houses. 
A  few  M.  8.  is  the  secluded  seashore  retreat  of  PoirU  PleasaiU,  in  the  pine-lands  2 
M.  flrom  Bamegat  Bay.  A  road  leads  N.  near  the  sea,  and,  crossing  the  shallow 
estuary  of  Shark  River,  passes  on  to  Ocean  Grove  and  Long  Branch. 


LONG  BRANCH. 


Jhuis  40.      289 


Hie  New  York  train  ram  N.  E.  fh>m  Junesburg  orer  puiUlIy  denuded 
pine-plains  and  through  a  dreary  and  spanely  populated  country  to  the 
South  River,  which  ia  crossed  at  Herbertsville.  South  Amboj  is  situ- 
ated on  Raritan  Bay,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Raritan  River,  which  separates 
H  from  Perth  Amboy  (see  page  257),  and  here  the  traveller  enters  a  steam* 
1>oat  which  passes  by  Staten  Island  and  up  the  Bay  of  New  York  to  Pier 
1,  N.  R.  The  latter  portion  of  the  route  is  very  interesting  and  pictu- 
resque (see  page  45). 

40.  Kew  Tork  to  Long  Branoh  and  the  Delaware  Bay. 

By  the  N.  J.  Southern  R.  R.  To  Long  Branch  in  2  hrs. ;  to  Philadelphia  (fare, 
12.25)  in  H  hra.  ;  to  Bny  Hide  in  7^  hrs. 

Stations.  —  Now  York  ;  Sandy  Hook  Pier,  (about)  20  M.  ;  Highlands,  25 ; 
Seabriglit,  27  :  Atlanticville,  30 ;  Long  Branch,  31 ;  Branchport,  83 ;  Ocoanport, 
84;  Eatontown  Junction,  80  (branch  to  Pprt  Monmouth,  43);  Shark  River,  42: 
Farmingdale,  46 :  Squankom,  47  ;  Bricksburg,  53 ;  White'H  Brldj^e,  57  ;  Ridgeway, 
59 :  Manchester,  01 ;  Whiting's,  C7  (branch  to  Pemberton  Junction  and  Philadel- 
phia) ;  Woodmansie,  74 ;  Shamong,  70 :  Atsion,  01  (brancli  to  Atco) ;  Cranberry 
Park,  03 ;  Winslow  Junction,  00 ;  Cedar  Lake,  105  ;  Landisville,  110 ;  Viiiolana, 
115;  Roscnhayn,  121;  Bridgeton,  127;  Buwentown,  130;  Greenwich,  134;  Bay 
Side,  137. 

Spacious  and  elegant  steamboats  leave  Pier  8,  North  River,  nnd  pass 

down  the  Bay  of  New  York,  affording  pleasant  views  of  the  great  cities 

along  the  shores,  the  heights  and  villages  of  Staten  Island,  and  the  forts 

which  guard  the  Narrows.      Below  the  Lower  Bay  the  Highlands  of 

Navesink  are  approached;  and  crossing  Sandy  Hook  Bay  the  steamer 

reaches  the  N.  terminus  of  the  N.  J.  Southern  R.  R.    At  the  N.  end  of 

Sandy  Hook  are  2  beacons  and  a  powerful  light,  near  the  new  fortifications 

which  are  designed  to  command  the  main  ship-channel.    The  train  now 

runs  S.  along  the  long  and  narrow  peninsula,  with  the  ocean  on  the  1.  and 

the  Highlands  on  the  r.,  beyond  the  broad  estuaries  of  the  Navesink  and 

Shrewsbury  Rivers.     Passing  the  fishing  hamlet  of  Seabright,  the  line 

reaches 

Long  Branoh. 

Hotels.  — *  Ocean  Hotel  (Lelands'),  occupying  ten  acres  and  accommodating 
1,000  guests,  at  !$  5  a  day ;  the  *  West  End,  very  fashionable,  and  a  favorite  of 
statesmen  and  diplomats,  is  at  the  S.  part  of  the  beach  {ioa  day) ;  the  *  Mansion 
House  is  close  tu  the  sea,  surrounded  with  piazzas,  accomiuouates  500  guests, 
and  charges  $4  a  day ;  the  *  Howland  is  a  favorite  resort  of  Philadelphians,  and 
hiia  rooms  for  500  guests ;  the  ♦  United  States  is  S.  of  the  Mansion  House,  and 
can  take  500  boarders ;  tlie  Pavilion  (400  guests)  has  pleasant  lawns.  The  East- 
End  Hotel  is  ])artly  devoted  to  extmrsionists  ;  tiie  Sans  Souni  is  on  the  European 
tilan ;  the  Central  (with  restaurant)  is  well  situated ;  and  the  Clarendon  is  small, 
tut  good.  *  lauch's  is  famous  for  its  restaurant,  the  Delmonleo's  of  Long 
Branch.  There  are  several  smaller  hotels,  and  boatd  may  be  secured  in  private 
families  for  8 10  - 18  a  week. 

LoNO  Branch,  "the  summer  capital  of  the  Republic,"  occupies  a  bold 

and  wave- washed  strand  which  was  formerly  the  resort  o'  fishermen  and 

wreckers.    Within  the  past  decade  it  has  attained  a  foremost  position 

among  the  American  summer  resorts;  immense  hotels  have  arisen  upon 

the  shore,  and  costly  private  cottages  have  been  built  along  the  broad 

18  • 


290     Itwte  40, 


LONG  BRANCH. 


avenues.  The  President  and  other  emiiaent  men  occupy  summer  homes 
here;  and  brilliant  companies  of  fashionable  people  frequent  the  hotels. 
The  rapid  growth  of  Long  Branch  is  partly  due  to  its  proximity  to  N.  Y. 
and  Phila.,  and  partly  to  its  fine  beach.  The  hotels  are  situated  on  the 
Bluff,  a  broad  plateau  20  ft.  above  the  sea,  of  which  it  commands  a  grand 
view.  Bathing  is  usually  done  near  the  time  of  high  tide,  when  white 
flags  are  hoisted  on  the  hotels,  and  boats  are  stationed  outside  the  surf- 
line  to  assist  persons  who  get  into  too  deep  water.  Before  6  o'clock,  a.  m., 
gentlemen  are  allowed  to  bathe  without  costume.  The  quaint  and  brill- 
iant dresses  of  the  bathers  during  the  regular  hours  form  a  pleasant  spec- 
tacle, and  the  surf  is  then  dotted  with  groups  of  enthusiastic  people.  A 
bath-house  containing  100  rooms  has  been  built  for  those  who  cannot 
meet  the  shock  of  the  waves,  and  warm  salt-water  baths  are  given  here. 
There  is  a  fine  drive  S.  from  the  Ocean  Hotel  for  2  M.  along  the  bluffs, 
v.hence  another  drive-way  leads  through  Hollywood  Park  to  old  Long 
Branch,  Oceanport,  and  Red  Bank  (10  M.).  Another  macadamized  road 
leads  to  Atlanticville,  Seabright,  and  the  Highlands  (8  M.).  Monmoath 
Park  is  3  M.  from  Long  Branch,  and  is  one  of  the  most  famous  race- 
courses in  America.  It  cost  $250,000,  and  covers  127^  acres.  The 
races  begin  about  July  3,  and  include  heats,  dashes,  steeple-chases, 
and  hurdle-races.  Pleasure  Bay  (A^.  V.  Hotel;  Price's)  is  3  M.  from 
the  Branch,  on  the  Shrewsbury  River,  and  is  famous  for  oysters  and 
crabs.  Yachts  and  small  boats  may  be  hired  here  for  fishing  or  sailing 
on  the  broad  river.  The  old  hamlet  of  Long  Branch  is  2  M.  from  the 
shore ;  Red  Bank  is  8  M.  distant ;  and  Eatontown  is  5  M.  W.  Oceanport 
(Dunbarton  House)  is  i  M.  N.  W.  of  the  Branch,  and  is  near  the  far- 
viewing  summits  of  Wolf  and  Dunbarton  Hills.  The  Tinton  Falls, 
Rumson  Neck,  Branch  Port,  and  other  points  along  the  Shrewsbury 
River  are  much  visited  by  way  of  pleasant  roads.  Deal  {*  Hathaioay's 
Hotel ;  Allen's)  is  an  old  village  on  the  shore  5  M.  S.  of  Long  Branch; 
below  which  are  the  great  Methodist  resorts  known  as  Ocean  Orove  and 
Asbury  Park,  containing  several  hundred  cottages  (and,  in  the  season, 
great  numbers  of  tents).  In  this  vicinity  are  the  Sunset,  Fletcher,  and 
Asbury  Lakes.  Farther  S.  is  Shark  River,  a  favorite  objective  point  for 
excursions  from  the  Branch,  and  famed  for  oysters  and  crabs. 

Bed  Bank  (*  Globe  Hotel ;  West-End ;  Union)  is  a  village  of  over 
8,000  inhabitants,  with  5  churches  and  3  academies,  and  is  prettily  situ- 
ated on  the  Shrewsbury  River,  which  is  here  f  M.  wide.  It  is  a  favorite 
port  for  yachtsmen  and  other  pleasure-seekers  ;  and  artists  frequent  the 
vicinity  for  the  sake  of  the  pleasant  marine  views.  S^ell-fish  are  found 
in  great  variety  and  abundance,  and  large  oyster-beds  are  located  in  the 
Shrewsbury  River.    Steamboats  run  from  New  York  to  Red  Bank  daily 


NAYESINE  HIGHLANDS.       Route  40.      291 


(according  to  the  tide)  in  8^  hra.  (fare  50c.) ;  and  stages  leave  for  the 
neighboring  villages.    Bed  Bank  is  1^  hrs.  from  N.  Y.,  by  rail 

The  Highland!  of  Havesink  [* Atlantic  Hotel;  Schenck^s^  —  $3  a 
day)  are  bold  hills  between  the  Navesmk  Biver  and  Sandy  Hook  Bay. 
They  are  rugged  and  picturesque  in  their  outlines,  and  are  diversified  by 
fine  reaches  of  woodlands.  Mount  Mitchell  is  the  highest  summit,  and 
reaches  an  altitude  of  282  ft.,  whence  broad  ocean- views  are  gained.  Far 
up  on  the  heights  are  2  lighthouses,  of  which  that  to  the  S.  is  248  ft. 
above  the  sea,  and  has  one  of  the  most  powerful  Fresnel  lights  on  the 
coast.  This  range  is  usually  the  first  land  seen  on  approaching  New 
York,  and  is  also  the  last  in  sight  for  departing  vessels.  It  is  said  that 
the  name  *'  Neversink "  was  applied  to  these  hills  by  impatient  sailors 
eastward  bound  and  held  on  the  coast  by  adverse  winds.  The  fishing 
and  bathing  in  this  vicinity,  together  with  the  pleasant  rambles  and  broad 
<views,  have  made  it  a  favorite  summer  resort.  The  steamers  from  New 
York  to  Bed  Bank  touch  at  this  dock  daily. 


Leaving  Long  Branch  the  train  runs  W.  by  Branchport  and  Oceanport 
to  Uatontovm  Junction^  whence  a  branch  diveiges  by  the  village  of  Bed 
Bank  to  Port  Moi^aiouihy  10  M.  N.,  on  Sandy  Hook  Bay.  From  Eaton- 
town  the  main  line  runs  S.  W.  by  Shark  River  (stages  to  Squan  Beach), 
Farmingdale  (crossing  of  the  Freehold  k  Jamesburg  B.  B.,  see  page  288), 
and  Squankum^  to  Bricksburg  (Talmadge  House),  a  large  village  on  the 
Metedeconk  Biver.  A  road  to  the  E.  leads  to  Island  Beach,  a  narrow 
strip  of  sand  over  20  M.  long,  between  Bamegat  Bay  and  the  sea.  There 
are  two  small  hotels  far  down  on  this  beach.  The  line  now  traverses  a 
level  country  to  Manchester  {Manchester  House),  where  the  B.  B.  work- 
shops are  located. 

Tom's  BlTer  (* Ocean  House;  MagnoHa)  is  a  quiet  summer  resort  7  M.  from 
Manchester  by  a  branch  R.  B.  It  has  1,200  inhaDitants,  and  is  the  capital  of 
Ocean  County.  The  chief  industries  are  the  coasting-trade  and  the  cranberry 
culture,  and  the  vicinity  is  much  visited  in  autumn  by  sportsmen  in  quest  of  wild 
ducks  and  other  aquatic  fowl.  The  village  is  5  M.  from  the  ocean,  and  the  air  is 
cool  and  salubrious.  Near  the  outer  strand  of  Bamegat  Beach  is  a  sm^l  hamlet 
with  an  inn  whirfi  is  much  resorted  to  by  gunners.  The  defences  of  Tom's  River 
were  carried  by  storm  in  March,  1782,  and  the  village  was  destroyed.  The  Tom's 
River  R.  R.  runs  S.  from  this  point  for  13  M.  over  the  moors  which  border  Bame- 
gat Bay,  and  joins  the  Tuckerton  R.  R.  at  Bamegat  Junction. 

The  Tuckerton  R.  R.  diverges  from  the  N.  J.  Southern  R.  R.  at  Whiting's,  and 
runs  S.  E.  through  aflat,  sandy,  and  thinly  populated  country  to  Bamegat,  whence 
it  follows  the  marshy  shores  of  the  salt-water  estuaries  to  Tuclcerton,  a  small 
maritime  hamlet  near  the  sea.  The  Carlton  House  is  visited  in  summer,  and  the 
Ashing  (weak  and  blue  flsh)  in  the  vicinity  furnishes  an  exciting  sport.  On  the 
adjacent  Long  Beach  (Bond's  Long  Beach  House,  and  others)  many  aquatic  birds 
are  shot  during  the  autumn.  This  town  was  founded  by  Eben  Tucker,  and  formerly 
exported  large  quantities  of  sassafhis,  which  was  much  valued  in  Enrope  during  the 
last  century.  Many  privateers  resorted  to  this  point  during  the  Revolution,  and 
brought  in  valuable  prizes  firom  time  to  time.  A  British  naval  expedition  of  10 
vessels  and  700  soldiers  captured  the  place,  together  with  80  vessda  in  the  harbor. 


1     i 


292     RouU  p. 


BBIDOETON. 


burnt  the  villages  adjacent,  and  exterminated  the  advanced  goard  of  Pnlaski'a 
Legion,  which  vras  hastening  to  the  relief.  The  sloop-of-war  Zebra  grounded 
while  passing  out  of  the  harbor,  and  was  destroyed  by  Are. 

The  main  liue  passes  S.  from  Manchester  to  Whiting's,  whence  a  track 
runs  due  W.  18  M.  to  Pemberton  Junction,  where  connections  are  made 
with  the  Penn.  R.  B.  for  Philadelphia.  The  Vineland  Division  passes  S. 
W.  from  Whiting's  by  the  petty  stations  of  Ferrago,  Wheatland,  Wood- 
mansie,  Shamong,  Harris,  Hampton,  and  Atsion,  whence  a  branch  R.  R. 
runs  to  Atco.  About  Atsion  the  capacious  town  of  Fruitland  has  been 
laid  out,  in  a  locality  which  is  thought  to  be  adapted  to  the  cranberry 
culture.  Of  the  254,000  bushels  of  cranberries  raised  in  the  U.  S.  in  1871, 
this  State  furnished  150,000, — and  the  3  coast  counties  raised  130,000 
bushels.  This  branch  of  farming  is  very  profitable,  as  the  cranberries 
bring  $3.50-$4  a  bushel.  To  the  S.  is  Batsto,  whose  iron-works  were 
employed  throughout  the  Revolution  in  making  shot  and  shell  for  the  Con- 
tinental army  from  the  bog-iron  ore  which  abounds  hereabouts.  At  Edge- 
pelick,  3  M.  N.  of  Atsion,  the  Indians  of  N.  J.  made  their  last  sojourn. 
Brainerd  converted  the  tribe,  and  resided  here  with  them ;  but  the  com- 
mimity  went  West  about  the  year  1800. 

Running  S.  W.  from  Atsion  the  line  passes  N.  Hammonton  and  inter- 
sects the  Camden  &  Atlantic  R.  R.  (Route  42)  at  Winslow  Junction, 
Stations,  Winslow  (Hays'  glass-works  Cedar  Lake,  Tiandisville,  Wheat 
Road,  and  Vineland  (see  Route  43),  where  the  W.  Jersey  R.  R.  is  inter- 
sected. Crossing  the  Maurice  River  the  train  runs  W.  by  Bradway, 
Rosenhayn,  and  Woodruff's  to  Bridgeton  (Bridgeton  Hotel),  a  city  of 
8,000  inhabitants,  with  13  churches,  3  papers,  and  4  seminaries.  It  is 
situated  on  the  Cohansey  River  (over  which  there  are  3  bridges),  and  has 
a  line  of  steamers  to  Philadelphia.  There  are  here  46  factories,  with  an 
aggregate  capital  of  $  1,313,000  (rolling-mill,  foundry,  nails,  glass,  wool- 
lens). The  Cumberland  County  buildings,  the  Cohansey,  W.  Jersey,  and 
S.  Jersey  Academies,  are  all  on  the  W.  of  the  creek. 

The  Bridgeton  db  Port  Norria  R.  B.  runs  20  M.  S.  E.  to  Port  Norris.  It  follows 
the  Cohansey  to  Fairton,  and  then  runs  8.  to  Cedarville,  in  the  centre  of  the  town 
of  Fairfield,  which  was  settled  by  men  of  Fairfield,  Conn.,  in  1697.  On  the  8. 
are  the  broad  salt-marshes  which  border  on  Delaware  Bay.  Stations,  Newport 
(N.  of  Bear  Swamp),  Dividing  Creelc,  Mauricetown  (2-3  M.  W.  of  the  hamlet), 
and  Port  Norris,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Maurice  River.  This  town  was  settled 
by  tlie  Swedes  (1637-64),  and  the  river  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  one  of 
their  ships,  the  Priruse  Maurice,  was  attaclied  and  burnt  by  the  Indians  al>ove 
Mauricetown. 

The  main  line  runs  S.  W.  from  Bridgeton,  by  the  stations  of  Bowen- 

town,  Sheppard's  Mills,  and  Greenwich,  to  Bay  Side,  its  S.  terminus,  on 

Delaware  Bay.    A  railroad  ferry  is  projected  from  this  point  to  Bombay 

Hook,  in  the  State  of  Delaware. 

The  last  4  stations  are  in  the  town  of  Greenwich,  whose  Indian  remains  show 
that  a  large  aboriginal  population  occupied  this  region.    It  was  settled  about 


MOUNT  HOLLY. 


Rmae4L     293 


1  of  Pnlaski'i 
tbra  grounded 

hence  a  track 
ms  are  made 
don  passes  S. 
tland,  Wood- 
branch  B.  B. 
&nd  has  been 
;he  cranberry 
U.  S.  in  1871, 
aised  130,000 
le  cranberries 
n-works  were 
UfortheCon- 
ts.    At  Edge- 

last  sojourn. 

but  the  com- 

on  and  inter- 
[ou;  Junction. 
isville,  Wheat 
B.  B.  is  inter- 
by  Bradway, 
el),  a  city  of 
Inaries.  It  is 
dges),  and  has 
>ries,  with  an 
J,  glass,  wool- 
J.  3en%Y^  and 


ris.  It  follows 
tre  of  the  town 
97.  On  the  S. 
tions,  Newport 
uf  the  hamlet). 
>wn  was  settled 
fact  that  one  of 
Indians  above 


ns  of  Bowen- 
terminus,  on 
it  to  Bombay 


1680  by  New-Bnglanders  and  others.  After  the  "Boston  tea-party,"  the  East 
India  Company  sent  the  ship  Grtyhownd  up  the  Cohansey  to  Greenwich  with  a 
cargo  of  tea.  On  the  night  of  Nov.  22, 1774,  40  citizens  disguised  as  Indians  took 
the  tea  flrom  the  st"  :  -^ouse,  and,  piling  the  chests  in  an  adjacent  field,  destroyed 
the  whole  cargo  :..:  %  Civil  suits  were  brought  against  these  bold  patriots,  but 
were  dropped  attoii    :;  j  battles  around  Boston. 

4L  Philadelphia  to  Long  Branch  and  New  Tork. 

By  the  Camden  &  Burlington  County  R.  R-.  and  the  N.  J.  Southern  R.  R. 
From  Philadelphia  to  Long  Branch,  79  M.;  to  New  York,  110  M.  (fare,  92.25). 

Stations.  —  Philadelphia  ;  Camden,  1  ;  Merchautville,  &  ;  Stiles',  8  ;  W. 
Uooreatown,  10 :  E.  Moorestown,  11 ;  Hartford,  14 ;  Mason ville,  15 ;  Hainesport, 
18;  Mt  Holly,  19;  Smithville,  22;  EwausviUe,  28;  Birmingham,  24;  N.  J. 
Southern  Junction,  25;  Pemberton,  26 ;  New  Lisbon,  29 ;  Hanover,  85;  Whiting's, 
43 ;  Manchester,  49 ;  Bricksburg,  57  ;  Farraingdale,  64 ;  Shark  River,  68 ;  Eaton- 
town  Junction,  74 ;  Eatontown,  75 ;  Oceanport,  76 ;  Branchport,  77 ;  Long  Branch, 
79 ;  Seabright,  83 ;  Highlands,  85 ;  Sandy  Hook  Pier,  90 ;  New  York,  110. 

The  train  diverges  from  the  Camden  &  Amboy  line  at  the  Jmiction,  and 
runs  £.  by  the  large  village  of  Moorestown  and  several  minor  hamlets. 
19  M.  from  Philadelphia  it  reaches  Moxint  Holly  (2  inns),  the  capital  of 
Burlington  County,  on  the  Bancocas  Creek.  It  has  4,000  inhabitants,  and 
is  surrounded  by  a  fruitful  country.  To  the  N.  is  the  hill  from  which  the 
place  is  named.  It  is  200  ft.  high,  and  overlooks  a  wide  extent  of  the 
W.  Jersey  plains. 

Mt.  Holly  was  settled  by  the  Friends,  and  was  garrisoned  during  part  of  the 
Revolution  by  British  troops,  one  of  whose  ofiicers  afterwards  became  King 
William  IV.  of  England.  At  a  later  day  many  of  the  French  reftigees  from  St. 
Domingo  were  domiciled  here,  and  Stephen  Qirard  peddled  cigars  and  raisins. 
John  Woolman,  the  Apostle  of  the  Friends,  was  bom  here  in  1720,  and  spent  an 
active  life  in  works  of  beneficence.  He  made  many  religious  journeys  through 
the  Jerseys,  and  lived  in  a  style  of  stern  simplicity.  At  that  early  day  he  de- 
nounced African  slavery,  deprecated  sectarianism,  and  strove  for  purity  of  life 
and  sweetness  of  culture. 

The  Med/ord  Branch  runs  S.  6)  M.  from  Mt.  Holly,  by  LumherUm,  to  Medford; 
and  the  B.  &  Mt.  H.  R.  R.  runs  N.  W.  7  M.  to  BurlluBton  (see  page  288). 

The  N.  Y.  train  runs  E.  from  Mt.  Holly  to  JSwansvUle  (whence  a 
branch  B.  B.  diverges  to  Yincentown,  3  M.  S.)  and  Pemberton  Junction. 
The  Pemberton  &  Hightstown  B.  B.  diverges  here  to  the  N.  E.,  and 
passes  Lewistoum  (crossing  of  Einkora  Branch  B.  B.),  Wrightstown, 
New  Egj'pt,  Homerstown,  Imlaystown,  and  Hightstown  (on  the  Camden 
k  Amboy  B.  B.,  26  M.  from  Pemberton).  From  New  Lisbon,  4  M.  K 
of  Pemberton  Junction,  a  branch  line  runs  N.  W.,  through  Lewistown, 
Juliustown,  Jobstown,  and  Columbus,  to  Kinkora,  on  the  Delaware 
Bivsr  and  Camden  &  Amboy  B.  B.  The  train  now  passes  across  desolate 
pine-plains,  poor  and  sparsely  populated,  to  Whiting'i,  on  the  N.  J. 
Southern  B.  B.,  18  M.  from  Pemberton.  From  Whiting's  to  Long  Branch 
and  New  York,  see  Boute  iO  (reversed). 


remains  show 
settled  about 


k.  ■ 


I'l 


I  I 


294     Route  4i> 


ATLANTIC  CITY. 


42.  Philadelphia  to  Atlaatio  Cily. 

By  the  Camden  &  Atlantic  R.  R.  in  2-3  hn.,  traversing  the  level  Mndy 
plaina  of  Lower  New  Jersey,  and  passing  through  a  thinly  settled  but  eligible 
country  which  is  now  being  developed. 

Stations*— IMiilRdelpliia ;  Cooper's  Point  (Camden),  1  M.;  Haddonfleld,  8; 
Asliland,  11 :  White  Horse,  13  ;  Berlin,  18  ;  Atco,  20  (branch  to  Atsion,  on  the  N. 
J.  Southern  R.  R.) :  Waterford,  24';  Ancora,  25 ;  Winslow.  28  (crossing  of  the 
N.  J.  Southern  R.  R.);  Hamnionton,  31 ;  Da  Costa,  88;  Elwood,  8&;  Egg  Har- 
bor, 42  (bi-anoh  to  May's  Landing,  49);  Pomona,  48;  Absecom,  68;  Mlantic 
City,  60. 

Passengers  leave  the  foot  of  Vine  St.,  Phila.,  by  a  ferry-boat  which 
crosses  the  Delaware  to  the  R.  R.  station  at  Cooper's  Point,  in  Camden. 
The  train  runs  obliquely  across  Camdeu,  and  thence  over  level  plains  to 
ffaddoi\field  (2  inns),  a  pleasant  village  where  many  Philadolphians  pass 
the  summer.  It  was  settled  by  the  Friends  before  1690,  and  was  named 
after  an  eminent  preacher  of  that  sect.  The  Continental  Congress  re- 
mained several  weeks  here,  and  the  place  was  afterwards  occupied  by 
British  troops.  A  large  proportion  of  the  preisent  population  belongs  to 
the  Friends,  and  that  sect  has  2  churches  here.  The  train  now  passes  the 
rural  stations  of  Ashland,  White  Horse,  and  Berlin,  and  reaches  Atco,  a 
small  glass-working  hamlet.  Branch  lines  diverge  hence  to  WUliamsUnon 
(9  M.  S.  W.),  and  to  Atsion,  on  the  N.  J.  Southern  R.  R.  Stations, 
Waterford,  Ancora,  Winslow  Junction  (crossing  of  the  N.  J.  Southern  R. 
R.),  and  Hammonton  (Hanmionton  House),  a  fruit-producing  village  set- 
tled by  New-Englanders  in  1860,  and  situated  on  the  old  pine-plains  of 
Atlantic  County.  This  is  one  of  the  numerous  "  cities  on  paper "  of  S. 
New  Jersey,  and  imaginary  streets  are  laid  out  for  many  miles  on  each 
side.  Da  Costa,  Elwood,  and  Egg  Harbor  City  {New  York  Hotel)  are 
next  passed,  and  are  the  sites  of  projected  cities,  with  parks,  avenues, 
and  squares  laid  out  on  the  long  reaches  of  level  sand.  A  German  colony 
has  recently  settled  at  Egg  Harbor,  whence  a  branch  R.  R.  runs  S.  W.  7 
M.  to  May's  Landing  (American  Hotel),  the  county-seat.  This  village 
was  founded  in  1710,  and  is  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Great  Egg 
Harbor  River.  The  train  on  the  main  line  passes  Pomona  and  reaches 
Absec(»n  (Absecom  House;  Franklin),  whence  stages  run  S.  W.,  by  the 
borders  of  vast  salt-marshes,  to  Leed's  Point  and  Scmiers'  Point,  on  Great 
Egg  Harbor  Bay.  Beyond  Absecom  the  train  passes  out  on  the  marshes 
between  Absecom  Bay  and  Lake's  Bay,  and  after  running  7  M.,  and  cross- 
ing 2  narrow  straits,  it  enters 

Atlantic  City. 

Hotels*  —  *  United  States,  between  Del.,  Md.,  Atlantic,  and  Pacific  Aves., 
accommodating  700  guests  ;  *  Congress  Hall,  N.  W.  comoi*  of  Mass.  and  Pacific 
Aves. ;  •Surf  House,  between  R.  I.  and  Vt.  Aves.  The  prices  at  these  large 
hotels  are  9  2. 60 -3. 50  a  day.  The  Chalfont,  Clarendon,  Tremont,  Light- House, 
8t  Charles,  and  other  houses  are  less  expensive ;  and  there  are  numerous  large 


ATLANTIC  CITY. 


MouU  4S.      295 


iKMurding-houBei,  cli»n^$10-20awe«k.    Another  new  and  palatial  hotel  is 
nearly  completed,  ana  wUl  be  ojiened  in  the  summer. 

Ballroads.— The  Camden  k  AtUintic,  to  Phila.  in  69  M.  (Strains  daily  in 
summer) ;  to  New  York  in  126  M.,  by  the  Camden  &  Atlantic  to  Winslow,  and 
thence  by  the  N.  J.  Soutliem  R  R.  (Route  40). 

Atlantic  Citt  vas  settled  in  1S18,  and  became  a  city  in  1854.  It  has 
over  1,000  inhabitants,  with  5  churches,  and  is  laid  out  with  broad  and 
pleasant  avenues.  Within  a  few  years  it  has  become  a  favorite  summer 
resort,  especially  for  the  citizens  of  Philadelphia;  and  the  season  lasts 
from  July  to  the  middle  of  September.  Near  the  outer  point  of  the  island 
on  which  the  hotels  are  located  is  a  lofty  stone  lighthouse  which  bears  a 
powerful  first-class  light.  There  are  nearly  50  hotel'i  at  the  city,  and 
40,000  guests  a  year  arrive  here;  and  the  social  element,  in  hops,  balls, 
and  receptions,  is  supervised  by  some  of  the  leaders  of  Philadelphia 
society.  The  beach  is  one  of  the  best  on  the  coast,  and  affords  fine  bath- 
ing facilities;  while  the  boating  and  fishing  on  the  adjacent  inlets  and 
outer  waters  afford  fine  amusement.  The  country  in  the  vicinity  is  unin- 
teresting, and  consists,  for  the  most  part,  of  flat  salt-marshes.  The 
autumnal  sport  of  duck-shooting  is  successfully  followed  here.  N.  of 
Atlantic  City,  across  Absecom  Inlet,  is  the  long  and  unbroken  Bngantin$ 
Beach f  which  is  called  by  seamen  "  the  graveyard,"  on  account  of  the 
number  of  fatal  wrecks  which  have  taken  place  there. 

43.   Philadelphia  to  Cape  May. 

By  the  West  Jersey  R.  R.,  which  traverses  the  thinly  populated  plains  of  the 
8.  counties  of  N.  J.,  with  several  branch-lines  divei^ng  to  the  ports  of  the  Dela- 
ware. 

Stations*  —  Philadelphia :  Camden,  1  M. ;  Gloucester,  4 :  Westville.  & ;  Wood- 
bury, 9  (branch  to  Berkley,  13  ;  Clarksboro',  14 ;  Swedesboro',  19)  ;  Mantua,  12  ; 
Baraesboro',  14  ;  Glassboro',  18  ;  Clayton,  21 ;  Franklinville,  24  ;  lona,  25  ;  Mal- 
aga, 28  ;  Newfleld,  30  ;  N.  Vineland,  31 ;  Yineland,  34  (crossing  of  N.  J.  Southern 
R.  B.) :  S.  Vineland,  37  ;  Millville,  40 ;  Manumuskin,  46 ;  Bclleplain,  63  ;  Wood- 
bine, 56  :  Mt.  Pleasant,  59  ;  Seaville,  62 :  Swain's,  66  ;  Cape  May  Court  House, 
69 :  Rio  Grande,  75 ;  Bennett's,  78  ;  Cape  May,  81.  Bridgeton  and  Salem  Branches, 
—  Phila.  ;  Glassboro',  18  ;  Union,  20  ;  Harding,  22 ;  Monroe,  24  ;  Elmnr,  26  (di- 
vergence of  the  branch  to  Daretown,  81 ;  Yorketown,  84 ;  Alloway,  38  ;  Middle- 
town,  89 :  Salem,  43) ;  Palatine,  29  ;  Husted,  31 ;  Finley,  84 :  Bridgeton,  87. 

Crossing  from  the  foot  of  Market  St.,  Phila.  (1.  ferry-house),  the  travel- 
ler takes  the  cars  at  Camden  and  passes  S.  near  the  Delaware  Biver  to 
Oloucester  (2  hotels),  a  small  river-city  devoted  to  manufacturing.  It 
was  founded  in  1689,  and  was  held  by  Lord  Comwallis  with  5,000  British 
troops  in  1777.  Station,  WestvUle,  near  the  mouth  of  Timber  Creek, 
where  Capt.  Mey  (of  the  Dutch  West  India  Company)  founded  Fort 
Nassau  in  1621.  The  colonists  were  soon  at  feud  with  the  Indians;  and, 
being  decoyed  into  an  unfavorable  position,  they  were  all  massacred  and 
the  fort  was  destroyed.  Woodbury  ( Wills's  Hotel)  is  a  village  2  -  3  M.  S. 
of  Red  Bank  (see  page  287),  with  a  branch  R.  B.  running  S.  W.  10  M. 
by  Berkley  and  Clarksboro'  to  Sioedeiboro*  (2  inns),  a  hamlet  on  Baccoon 


; 


*i      'i 


.»! 


296    Jt<mU4S. 


VINELAND. 


Creek.  It  was  settled  by  the  Swedes  before  1640,  and  the  Swedish  church 
was  kep  up  until  1786.  Stations  (main  line),  Wenonah,  near  Mantua 
village,  wivh  a  large  summer  hotel;  Bameaboro*;  and  Okusboro*  (2  inns), 
a  village  of  2,500  inhabitants,  with  4  churches.  This  place  was  settled 
at  an  early  date  by  Germans,  who  commenced  the  manufacture  of  glass. 
Whitney's  glass-works  are  located  here,  and  are  the  largest  in  the  Repub- 
lic; while  the  aggregate  annual  product  of  this  industry  is  $2,500,000. 
Glassboro'  is  on  the  great  S.  Jersey  vein  of  pure  white  sand,  even  and 
fine,  which  melts  easily  and  is  well  adapted  for  glass-making. 

A  branch  R.  R.  runs  8.  from  Glassboro'  to  Bridgeton  (see  page  292)  in  19  H., 
TOissins  7  stations.  From  Elmer  station  {Elmer  Howe),  on  this  branch,  another 
R.  R.  diverges  to  the  W.,  and  in  43  M.  from  Camden  it  reaches  Salem  (Garwood'$ 
Hotel;  Mansion ;  Nelson),  the  capital  of  Salem  County.  It  has  4,'>55  inhabitants, 
and  is  the  centre  of  a  populous  farming  country.  There  are  d  .ily  steamers  to 
Philadelphia,  — by  Salem  Creek  and  the  Delaware  River.  Salem  was  settled  by 
60  immigrants  fTom  New  Haven  (Conn.)  in  1641 ;  but  the  colony  was  broken  up 
and  replaced  by  a  Swedish  fort,  which  in  turn  yielded  to  the  Dutch  and  the  Eng- 
lish. In  1673  Lord  Berkeley's  half  of  New  Jersey  (known  as  West  Jersey)  was 
bought  by  2  Friends  for  £1,000.  The  chief  proprietor  soon  visited  his  new 
domain,  and  "landed  at  a  pleasant,  rich  spot,  situate  near  Delaware,  by  him 
called  Sdlem  ;  probably  from  the  peaceable  aspect  it  then  bore."  The  new  colony 
^ew  rapidly,  and  in  1682  was  made  a  port  of  entry.  The  first  settlers  were 
Friends,  and  that  sect  still  has  2  churches  here.  In  1778  Salem  was  plundered 
by  1,200  Scottish  troops  under  CoL  Mawhood.  This  force  advanced  to  AUoway 
and  defeated  the  N.  J.  militia  by  ambuscade,  but  was  afterward  seriously  re- 

SiUsed  in  several  attempts  to  cross  the  AUoway.  The  Americans  there  defeated 
imcoe's  Queen's  Rangers,  who  had  tried  to  storm  the  fortified  bridge-head. 
Then  Mawhood  returned  to  Philadelphia,  bearing  a  large  quantity  of  forage  and 
many  cattle. 

Beyond  Clayton  and  Franklinville  the  main  line  passes  the  vineyards 
of  lona  and  Malaga ;  and  thence  by  Newfield  and  N.  Vineland  reaches 
Yineland  ( Vinelund  House).  At  this  point,  a  few  years  ago,  a  specula- 
tive gentleman  bought  a  tract  of  pine-plains  10  M.  square,  through  which 
broad  avenues  were  laid  out  and  public  reservations  were  made.  By  lib- 
eral advertising  and  low  rates  for  the  land,  large  sales  were  effected,  and 
the  forests  soon  gave  way  before  the  sturdy  arms  of  men  of  New  England. 
A  bright  new  town  grew  up  like  magic,  with  pretty  villas  and  cottages 
located  along  (and  at  prescribed  distances  from)  broad  straight  avenues; 
and  fine  churches  and  academies  were  erected.  Several  thousand  persons 
settled  in  this  vicinity  ;  but  the  dreams  of  a  southern  Arcadia  which  had 
lured  so  many  from  the  rocky  hills  of  New  England  were  soon  dissipated. 
At  present  Vineland  is  one  of  the  chief  towns  of  S.  New  Jersey,  and  is 
inhabited  by  a  semi-literary  community  of  Puritanic  memories,  whose 
local  laws  are  peculiar  and  beneficial,  and  far  in  advance  of  the  age.  The 
principal  business  of  the  town  is  raising  small  fruits  for  the  N.  Y.  and 
Phila.  markets;  and,  by  diligent  application,  considerable  sums  have  been 
made  in  this  branch  of  industry. 

6  M.  from  Vineland  the  train  reaches  MiUvUU  (Tice  House ;  City 
Hotel),  a  place  of  over  6,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Maurice  Biver, 


CAPE  HAT. 


Jtouu  4S.     297 


and  containing  several  glass-factories.  The  line  now  runs  S.  E.  through  a 
sandy  and  sparsely  populated  country  by  the  stations  of  Manumuskin 
and  Belle  Plain.  Entering  the  low  and  marshy  domain  of  Cape  May 
County,  beyond  Woodbine  and  Mt.  Pleasant,  the  Qi«at  Cedar  Swamp  is 
crossed,  and  the  train  stops  at  SeaviUe  station,  whence  the  Se^i-Shore 
road  runs  N.  E.  10  - 12  M.  between  the  Swamp  and  the  salt  estuaries 
behind  Ludlam's  and  Peck's  Beaches.  It  passes  through  Seaville  and 
terminates  at  Beesley*s  Pointy  a  quiet  simimer  resort  on  Great  £gg  Har> 
bor.  The  R.  R.  runs  S.  W.  down  the  Cape  with  broad  sounds  and  marshy 
islands  and  moors  1-2  M.  to  the  1.  Stations,  Swain's,  Cape  May  Court 
House,  Rio  Grande,  and  Bennett's,  beyond  which  the  train  passes  Cold 
Spring  and  stops  at 

Cape  Hay. 

Hotels. —  * Stockton  House,  1,200  guests,  $4.60  a  dav,S28  a  iveek;  *Con- 
ffress  Uull,  1,000  guests,  $4.60;  Ocean  Houiie,  900  guests,  $8.fi0;  Atlantic,  9  8.50, 
921a  week;  Columbia,  $400;  Centre,  350  guests,  $350;  National,  Delaware, 
and  Arctic,  eacli  $  3  a  day ;  Chalfont,  West  End,  United  States,  Merchants,  and 
Treuiont.  The  Sea-Breeze  House  is  U9ed  by  excursion-parties.  There  are  also 
several  boarding-boufles,  which  charge  $  12  -20  a  week. 

Railroads,  —  to  Philadelphia  in  2  hrs.  (81  M.,$  2.50) ;  to  Atlantic  City  by  way 
of  Yineland.    Steamers  run  didly  to  Philadelphia  (fare,  $  2). 

Cape  Mat  is  the  most  southern  point  of  New  Jersey,  and  is  one  of 
the  Capes  of  the  Delaware  (the  other  being  Cape  Henlopen,  across  the 
Bay).  It  is  insulated  by  a  small  tidal  stream,  and  fronts  on  the  Atlantic 
The  beach  extends  from  the  point  of  the  Cape  t9  Cold  Spring  Inlet,  a  dis- 
tance of  5  M.,  and  is  composed  of  firm  gray  sand,  affording  a  fine  drive- 
way at  half  or  low  tide.  The  bathing  facilities  are  unsurpassed,  and  the 
surf  is  massive,  and  is  (it  is  claimed)  less  chilling  than  that  of  the  New 
England  coast.  Most  of  the  hotels  front  directly  on  the  sea,  and  afford 
fine  marine  views  ;  and  a  long  promenade-walk  is  built  down  the  water- 
front. The  visitors  are  mostly  from  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  and  the 
Western  States ;  while  the  Southerners  who  were  wont  to  come  here  be- 
fore the  Secession  War  are  beginning  to  return  to  their  old  summer 
home.  The  aristocratic  military  organizations  of  the  adjai^ent  States 
make  their  encampments  in  this  vicinity,  and  the  Slite  of  Phila.  society  is 
found  at  the  larger  hotels  (notably  at  the  Stockton  House).  The  steam- 
boat-landing is  on  Delaware  Bay,  about  2  M.  from  the  hotels  ;  and  down 
the  beach  to  the  W.  (near  Lilly  Pond)  is  the  lighthouse,  which  is  90  ft. 
high,  and  sustains  a  powerful  revolving  light.  2-3  M.  inland  is  Cold 
Sjpring,  a  favorite  place  for  excursions,  and  so  named  on  account  of  a 
large  spring  of  sweet  water  which  rises  through  a  salt  marsh.  Sea  Grove 
is  a  Presbyterian  summer-village  near  Cape  May,  with  cottages,  avenues^ 
and  a  large  new  hotel. 

Cape  May  was  named  in  honor  of  himself  by  Capi  Cornelius  Jacobse  Mey,  who 
visited  this  coast  in  a  ship  of  the  Dutch  Yiwt  India  Company.   The  same  mariner 
13  ♦ 


298     lt<mU4l 


LAMBERTVILLB. 


•fllxed  hii  nftine  to  other  points,  naming  New  York  "  Fort  Mey  " ;  Cape  Eenlopen, 
"Caoe  ConiellUH":  and  the  Delaware,  "New  Port  Mey";  but  the  latWr  titles 
foiled  to  satialV.  In  1029  tite  Cupe  was  bought  from  9  Indlun  tiaoiieiUH  for  the 
Dutch  W.  I.  cfomi^tany,  and  it  was  hoou  settled  by  whalemen  from  Long  Ishind. 
During  the  Revolution  great  quantities  of  clams,  dried  and  strung,  were  sent  from 
this  district  to  the  Continental  army.  As  early  as  1812  the  Cape  was  "  a  favorite 
watering-place,"  and  in  1844  it  had  8  large  hotels  and  8,000  annual  visitors.  In 
the  War  of  1812  the  Uritish  line-oi-battle  slilp  J'oi^iera  appeared  off  the  villase. 
and  threatened  to  bombard  it  unless  allowed  to  get  a  supply  of  fresh  water.  The 
request  was  granted,  and  the  great  war-ship  sailed  away  in  peace. 


41  Philadelphia  to  the  Delaware  Water  Gap,  Soranton, 

and  Oswego. 

By  the  Penn.  R.  R.  (New  York  and  Belvidere  Divisions)  and  the  Delaware, 
Lackawanna  k  Western  R.  R.  The  country  which  is  traversed  by  this  route  is 
attractive  and  diversilled,  and  the  scenery  on  the  Belvidei-e  Divisioti  is  highly 
picturesque. 

Stallont*  —  Philadelphia  (Kensington) ;  Trenton,  80  M.  :  Asylum.  84 ;  Greens- 
burg,  80 ;  Somerset  Junction,  80  (branch  to  Pennington) ;  Washington's  Crossing, 
89  ;  TitusviUe,  41 ;  LaiuliertviUe,  40  (branch  to  Flemington) ;  Stockton,  SO ;  Pralls* 
viUe,  51 ;  Bull  Island,  53 ;  Point  Pleasant,  60 :  Frenchtown.  02 ;  Milford,  05 ; 
Holland,  08  ;  Durhxm,  71 ;  Riegelsville,  72 :  Pohatcong,  74 ;  CarpenterviUe,  76 ; 
Lehigh  Junction,  80} ;  Phillipsburg,  81 ;  Martin's  Creek,  88 ;  Roxburg,  01 ;  Bel- 
videre. 96 :  Manunka  Chunk,  98.  D.,  L.  <e  W.  R.  li.  —  Delaware  WaUT  Gap, 
108 :  Scranton,  188  ;  Binghamton,  194 ;  Utica.  2C9 ;  Syracuse,  274 ;  Oswego,  809. 

Philadelphia  to  Trenton,  see  pages  260,  261. 

A  short  distance  beyond  Trenton  the  N.  J.  Lunatic  Asylum  is  passed, 
and  the  line  follows  the  course  of  the  Delaware  |Uver,  on  -whose  farther 
bank  is  the  Penn.  Canal,  bordering  the  rich  and  rural  Bucks  County. 
Beyond  Greensbuiig  is  Somerset  Junction,  whence  a  branch  R  B.  runs  N. 
E.  to  Pennington,  and  thence  across  Pleasant  Valley  (with  Pennington  Mt. 
on  the  1.)  to  Hopewell,  This  line  is  continued  to  E.  Millstone  (see  page 
258).  The  main  line  passes  N.  W.  along  the  1.  bank  of  the  Delaware,  by 
the  stations  of  Washingiton's  Crossing  (where  the  American  army  crossed 
the  Delaware  before  the  victory  at  Trenton),  Titusville,  and  Moore's. 
Beyond  the  low  ridges  of  Ooat  Hill  (r.)  it  reaches  Lambertville  {Belmont 
^/>u«e),  a  pleasant  village  with  factories  on  the  feeder  of  the  Delaware  & 
Raritan  Canal.  A  bridge  crosses  the  river  to  New  Hope,  Penn.  At  this 
point  (then  called  CoryeVs  Ferry)  a  division  of  the  Continental  army 
crossed  during  the  disastrous  retreat  through  the  Jerseys.  Lord  Com- 
wallis  attempted  to  seize  this  strategic  point,  but  was  repulsed  by  the 
Scottish-American  Lord  Stirling. 

A  branch  R.  R.  runs  12  M.  N.  E.  flrom  Lambertville  up  the  Alexsocken  Creek 
to  Flemington,  passing  the  ancient  valley-village  of  Ringoes,  which  was  settled  by 
John  Ringo  in  1720.  Flemington  (County  hold;  Union)  is  the  capital  of 
Hunterdon  County,  and  is  pleasantly  situated  on  an  undulating  plain.  The  S. 
Branch  R  R  runs  from  Flemington  £.  to  SovwrvilU,  on,  the  N.  J.  Central  R.  R 

Beyond  Lambertville  the  main  line  passes  on  to  Stockton,  Bull's  Island, 
Point  Pleasant  (village  in  Penn.),  and  Tumble,  after  which  numerous 
islands  are  seen  in  the  liver,  and  beyond  Erwinna  (r.  bank)  the  train 


BELVIDKRE. 


JiiMte  44-     299 


i<>.v'!iM  Frenchtwm.  opposite  the  Penn.  hamlet  of  Uhlentown.  MUforA 
is  connected  by  a  bri(lg;e  with  Upper  Black  Eddy,  and  i«  overlooked  by  a 
picturesque  line  of  heights,  while  thb  red  sandstone  blulTs  of  Nockamixon 
are  seen  across  the  river.  The  line  next  curves  around  a  broad  bend  of  the 
river,  with  the  Musconetcong  Mt.  on  the  r.  Beyond  this  ridge  is  RitrjtLa- 
ville,  about  3  M.  S.  W.  of  which,  near  the  confluence  of  Durham  Creek 
and  the  Delaware  River,  is  a  remarkable  cavern,  containing  several  halls 
and  sloping  down  to  the  level  of  the  river,  where  a  deep  pool  is  found. 
The  train  now  traverses  a  romantic  district  of  hills,  and  on  the  1.  are  the 
highlands,  among  which  is  the  tall  hill  of  Ilexenkop/^  or  Witches'  Head, 
where  the  old  German  colonists  alleged  that  the  weird  women  were  wont 
to  meet  in  *'  linked  dances  "  on  stormy  nights, 

Tlie  KettentanM  of  the  Hartz  Mts.  was  reproduced  here,  and  accompanied  with 
ghostly  chanting  upon  the  huge  and  far-viewing  summitrroclc.  Thetie  orgies  de« 
clined  after  the  puuishment  of  a  witch  for  practising  "  certain  most  wiclied  acts 
(called  enchantinonts  and  charms),  nmliciouriiy  and  diabolically,  upon  and  against 
a  certain  white  horse  of  the  value  of  4  £,....  by  means  of  which  the  said 
horse  of  the  said  Justice  W.,  on  the  day  aforesaid,  at  the  township  of  Willianis 
aforesaid,  worstended  and  wasted  away,  against  the  peace  of  our  said  common* 
weal*^^h,  and  against  the  laws  in  this  case  made  and  provided." 

The  trMn  crosses  the  Pohatcong  Creek,  and  runs  N.  W.  to  the  Lehigh 
Junction,  with  beautiful  views  of  Easton  and  Phillipsburg.  The  great 
bridges,  the  mouth  of  the  Lehigh,  and  the  buildings  of  Lafayette  College 
are  seen  on  the  1. 

Beyond  Phillipsburg  the  Marble  Mt.  is  followed  on  the  r.,  with  pleasant 
river  scenery  on  the  1.  Stations,  Harmony ^  MartirCa  Creek,  and  Belvidere 
{American  House),  the  capital  of  Warren  County,  a  pleasant  village  sit- 
iiated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Pequest  and  Delaware  Rivers.  The  former 
stream  afibrds  a  good  water-power,  falling  60  ft.  in  1  M.  Near  the  centre 
of  the  village  is  a  public  square  on  which  front  4  churches  and  the  Court 
House.  N.  of  the  Pequest  is  the  Brainerd  Seminary,  with  other  public 
buildings.  The  train  now  rounds  the  Manunka  Chunk  Mt.,  and  meets 
the  Del.,  Lack,  k  Western  R.  R.  coml^^'  in  from  New  York  on  a  high 
grade.  Passengers  change  cars  here  (the  only  change  between  Fhila.  and 
Oswego),  ascending  to  the  platform  of  the  D.,  L.  &  W.  R.  R. 

Manunka  Chunk  to  Oswego,  see  pages  242-249. 


ill 


|i    I 


I 


I    'i 


I    i  * 


300     Route  45,  FORT  WASHINGTON. 


45.  Philadelphia  to  Central  New  Tork.  The  Valley  of 

Wyoming. 

By  the  N.  Penn.  and  Lehigh  Valley  R.  Re.  To  Wilkea-BAire,  In  6  hn. ;  to  Bl- 
mira,  10  hro. ;  to  Auburn,  13  hra. ;  to  Bufiklo,  U\  hn.  ;  to  Niagara  Falls,  lOf  hrs. 
Palace-cara  run  through  fh>m  Phila.  to  Niagara  Falls.  Phila.  to  Bethleliem,  3 
hrs. ;  to  M^ucb  Ohunii,  8^  hra. ;  to  Wilkes-Darro,  6  hn.  ;  to  Elmira,  10  hra. ;  to 
Rocheatcri  14t  hra. :  to  Buffalo,  1&|  hra. ;  to  Niagara  Falls,  10^  hra.    This  route 

{>a88e8  through  a  great  variety  of  pleasant  scenery,  from  the  rich  agricultural 
ands  of  Bucks  County  and  the  Valley  of  Wyoming  to  the  cold  and  fhiwning  wil- 
derness of  the  remote  mountain  counties.  The  great  iron-works  of  Lcliigh  County 
and  the  collieries  of  Carbon  and  Luzerne  are  also  passed,  and  afford  much  interest 
to  the  tourist.  Information  with  regard  to  exouraion  mutes,  fares,  and  palace- 
oan  may  be  obtained  at  732  Chestnut  St.,  and  106  8.  Fifth  St.,  Phila. ;  also  at  the 
Central  R  R.  and  the  Morris  k  Essex  R.  R.  stations  in  New  York. 

BtaUona*  —  Philadelphia  ;  Fisher's  Lane,  4  M . :  Green  Lane,  S  ;  Tork  Road, 
7 ;  Jenkintown,  9 ;  Abington,  10 ;  Edge  Hill,  11 ;  Fort  Washington,  14  ;  Ambler, 
15 ;  Penllyn,  17 ;  Gwynedd,  18 ;  N.  Wales,  20 ;  Lansdale,  22  (branch  to  Colmar, 
25 :  Chalfbnt,  27 ;  Doylestown,  38) ;  Hatfield,  25 ;  Soudera,  27 :  SclleraviUe,  81 ; 
Perkasie,  83 ;  Quakertown,  38 ;  Cooperaburg,  44 ;  Center  Valley,  45  ;  Bingen,  48  ; 
Hellcrtown,  51 ;  Bethlehem,  55  (Eaaton,  67).  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.  —  E.  Penn. 
Junction,  60  ;  AUentown,  60 ;  Catasauqua,  63  ;  Hokendauqua,  64  :  Cophiy,  65  ; 
Laury's,  70  ;  Slatlngton,  77  :  Lehigh  Gap,  79 :  Lehighton,  86  ;  Mauch  Chunk,  89; 
Glen  Onoko,  92 ;  Penn  Haven  Junction,  96 :  Hickory  Run.  109  ;  White  Haven, 
114  ;  Fair  View,  128  ;  Newport.  135  ;  Wilkes-Baire,  144  ;  Pittston,  158  ;  L.  &  B. 
Junction,  154 ;  Falls,  165  ;  McKunes,  168  ;  Tunkhannock,  176  ;  MehoOpany,  188 ; 
Meshoppen,  191 ;  Black  Walnut,  196  ;  Laceyville,  199 ;  Wyalusing,  209  :  French- 
town,  215 ;  Rumnierfleld,  219 ;  Standing  Stone,  222 ;  Wysauking,  226 ;  Towanda, 
230 :  Ulster,  237  ;  Milan,  241 ;  Athens,  245  :  Sayre,  247  :  Waverly  Junction,  249 ; 
Elmira,  267 ;  Ithaca,  281 ;  Auburn,  844 ;  Buffalo,  416 ;  Niagara  Falls,  438. 

The  train  on  the  N.  Penn.  B.  B.  leaves  the  terminal  station  on  Berks 
St.,  and  runs  N.  through  the  borders  of  the  city,  passing  several  large 
factories  and  rolling-mills.  Leaving  the  Episcopal  Hospital  on  the  r.,  the 
line  crosses  the  tracks  of  the  Beading  B.  B.  (coal-branch)  and  the  Penn. 
B.  B.  (connecting  line),  and  passes  out  into  the  pleasant  suburban  region 
near  the  Old  York  Boad.  At  about  6  M.  from  the  Berks  St.  station,  the 
line  leaves  Phila.,  and  enters  Montgomery  County,  passing  the  pretty 
Chelten  Hills.  The  celebrated  park  and  mansion  established  by  Jay 
Cooke  are  near  the  Old  York  Boad  station;  and  Gen.  Meade  lived  near 
Jenkintown.  Abington  is  considerably  to  the  E.  of  its  station  (whence  a 
branch  B.  B.  runs  N.  K  to  Hatboro,  near  Warminster) ;  and  Edge  Hill  is 
near  large  smelting-works.  From  Oreland  the  Plymouth  B.  B.  runs  S. 
W.  to  Conshohocken,  on  the  Schuylkill  Biver.  Sandy  Bun  is  known  for 
its  fine  white  lime ;  and  Fort  Washington  is  near  the  remains  of  the  field- 
works  which  v.ere  erected  to  check  the  advance  of  the  British  army  after 
the  disastrous  Battle  of  Germantown.  The  quaint  old  gambrel-roofed 
stone  house  which  was  used  for  Washington's  head-quarters  is  still  stand- 
ing, 1  M.  from  the  station.  From  this  point  the  army  retreated  to  its 
dreary  winter  camps  at  Valley  Foi^e.  Beyond  the  pleasant  rural  hamlets 
of  Ambler  and  Penllyn,  the  train  reaches  Owynedd,  a  Welsh  village  1  M. 
E.  of  the  station.    Bunning  through  the  costly  Gwynedd  Tunnel  (500  ft. 


BETHLEHEM. 


R<mt$4S.     301 


long),  the  next  atiitlon  is  N.  Wale*,  whence  daily  etages  ran  to  Norris- 
town  and  Hawleyville.  From  LansdaU  a  branch  R  R.  runs  N.  EL  11  M. 
by  Colmar  and  Chalfont  to  Ooyleatown,  sitnatnd  on  a  high  platean.  It 
is  the  capital  of  Bucks  Connty,  and  has  1,601  inhabitants,  most  of  whom 
are  desceuuants  of  Hk*  Scotch-Irish  settlers.  The  line  now  passes  Hatfield 
and  enters  the  fertile  farm-lands  of  Bucks  County,  populated  almost  en« 
tirely  by  the  descendants  of  the  old  Qermanic  migrations,  who  still  pre- 
serve the  language  and  customs  of  their  ancestors.  There  are  thousands 
of  small  farms,  partially  devoted  to  dairy-culture ;  and  women  may  be, 
seen  working  in  the  fields,  Just  as  in  Austria  or  Bavaria.  At  SeUenmUe 
the  Landis  Ridge  (the  water-shed  between  the  Delaware  and  Schuylkill)  is 
crossed,  affording  pleasant  views  down  the  Limestone  Valley.  Beyond 
Perkasie  (Perkasie  Hotel),  famed  for  cottage-cheeses,  the  train  mters  a 
tunnel  2,160  ft.  long.  Quakertaum  is  a  long  village  near  the  head  of  the 
Perkiomen  Valley,  with  daily  stages  running  S.  W.  across  Milford  to 
Greenville.  The  train  now  descends  into  the  Saucon  Valley,  with  South 
Mt.  on  the  r. ;  passes  Coopersburg  and  Bingen  (seat  of  the  N.  Penn.  Iron 
Co.'s  furnaces),  and  reaches  HdltrUnon,  a  compact  little  village,  which  is 
near  prolific  iron  and  zinc  mines.  Still  descending  the  brood  valley,  with 
South  Mt.  on  the  r.,  the  train  passes  great  furnaces  and  iron-works  and 
the  Lehigh  University  is  seen  on  the  r. 

Bethlehem  (*  Sun  Hotel,  $  3  a  day ;  Eagle  Jlotel)  is  pleasantly  situated 
on  the  highlands  N.  of  the  Lehigh  River,  and  contains  (together  with  S. 
Bethlehem)  over  10,000  inhabitants.  It  is  celebrated  as  being  the  chief 
seat  of  the  Moravians  in  America;  and  from  its  historic  attractions  and 
the  pleasant  scenery  in  the  vicinity,  it  has  become  a  summer*  resort.  The 
Moravian  Church  is  a  singular  stone  building,  which  accommodates  over 
2,000  persons.  The  ritual  and  sermons  are  in  English.  Above  the  church 
is  a  trilateral  range  of  ancient  stone  buildings,  with  massive  buttressed 
walls,  quaint  belfries,  and  double  rows  of  dormer-windows,  — recalling 
Quebec  or  Upper  Austria.  This  house  was  built  by  Bishop  Nitschmann 
in  1741,  and  contains  the  German  Chapel  and  the  home  of  the  Single  Sis- 
ters. All  the  unmarried  women  then  dwelt  in  this  house,  and  some  re- 
main there  (by  preference)  even  now. 

Great  care  was  taken  in  the  earlier  days  lest  the  young  people  should  form 
natural  a£Bnities  for  each  other.  The  sexes  were  kept  apart  even  at  church,  and 
after  death  were  buried  in  different  places.  During  the  hours  of  relaxation  fh)ni 
work,  they  took  long  walks  in  column  of  twos :  but  if  the  sisterhood  went  E.  the 
brothers  must  go  W.,  if  they  went  N.  t^e  brothers  must  go  S.,  in  order  to  avoid 
the  risk  of  meeting.  No  brother  was  allowed  to  walk  along  the  pavement  oppo- 
site the  Sisters'  House,  and  vice  versa.  If  a  brother  and  sister  met  on  the  street 
they  must  both  look  down,  and  never  on  any  pretence  could  gaze  at  each  other. 
Uarriages  were  considered  desirable,  but  simply  as  a  means  of  perpetuating  the 
church,  and  therefore  were  arranged  by  the  clei^.  If  each  of  several  ladies 
seemed  ec^ually  adapted  to  a  certain  single  brother,  the  elected  one  was  ascertained 
by  dirawing  lots ;  and  the  church  assumed  the  care  and  education  of  children 
when  they  reached  the  age  of  6  years.    Franklin  thus  reports  his  conversation 


302    ltouU4B, 


BETHLEHEM. 


with  a  Monvlan  leader :  *'  I  ol^eoted, '  If  the  matchei  are  not  made  by  the 
mutual  choice  of  the  parties,  lome  of  them  may  chance  to  be  unhappy.'  'So 
they  may  if  you  let  the  parties  choose  for  themselves,'  said  the  Moravian.  Which 
Indeed  I  could  not  deny." 

In  1778  the  Sinule  Histera  made  and  presented  to  Count  Pulaski  a  crimson  silk 
banner,  on  one  side  of  wliich  were  the  letters  "  U.  H.,"  encircled  by  the  motto, 
unitfu  virtu*  forlior  ,*  and  on  the  other  the  All-Seeing  Eve,  and  the  motto,  non 
alius  regit,  embroidered  in  vellow  silk  and  fringed  with  bullion.  This  banner  was 
borne  by  Pulaski's  regiment,  until  he  fell  in  the  assault  on  Savannah  (1770X  I^ 
is  now  in  tlie  Maryland  Historical  Society's  rooms,  at  Baltimore. 


"  When  the  dylnir  flsme  of  day  " 

Throufth  tha  chmicel  ihol  lu  my. 

Far  the  glimmering  taperi  ihed 

Fulnt  light  on  the  cowled  head. 

And  the  center  burning  iwung, 

IWhon  before  the  altar  hung 

That  proud  banner,  which,  with  prayer. 

Had  been  coneecrated  there  ; 
And  the  nun'a  tweet  hymn  waa  heard  the 

while. 
Bung  low  In  the  dim  myiteriout  altle,— 

Aymn  qf  lA«  Moravian  jVmu  at 


'  Take  thy  banner.    May  It  wave 
Proudly  o«r  the  good  and  brave. 
When  the  battle'a  distent  wall 
Breakt  the  Sabbath  of  our  vale  t 
When  the  clarion  a  muilc  thrllla 
To  the  heart  of  thete  k>ne  hlllt ; 
When  the  tpear  in  conflict  ahakes. 
And  the  ttrong  knee,  quivering,  breaks." 


Me  OoHBeeration  t^  PuUuki'$  Banner. 

(Umhbt  W.  LoKorsLLOir.) 


The  Widows'  House  is  the  quaint  little  building  opposite  the  Single 
Sisters'  House.  Back  of  the  latter  is  the  Boys'  School,  and  farther  out 
on  Church  St.  (on  Mrliich  are  many  ancient  houses)  is  the  Moravian  Theo- 
logical Seminary.  On  Church  and  Market  Sts.  are  the  old  cemeteries, 
which  are  scrupulously  guarded.  A  small  horizontal  slab  of  marble  is 
laid  on  the  top  of  each  grave,  and  all  classes  and  conditions  of  men  are 
buried  side  by  side.  The  pile  of  buildings  S.  of  the  church  is  the  Mora' 
vian  Seminary  for  Young  Ladies,  the  oldest  in  the  Republic  (founded  in 
1749).  It  has  42  teachers  and  tutoresses,  805  students,  and  6,000  alumnae, 
with  fine  libraries  and  cabinets.  Many  of  the  students  belong  to  churches 
other  than  the  Moravian,  and  some  come  from  foreign  lands. 

Below  the  cheerful  reading-rooms  of  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  (86  Main  St.)  is  a 
room  containing  a  museum  of  curiosities  (entrance,  25c. ).  Among  these 
are  a  quaint  fire-engine  made  in  London  in  1698,  and  brought  over  by  the 
Moravians ;  the  war-costumes  of  Osceola  and  Bed  Jacket ;  ancient  weapons 
of  warfare.  Christian  and  heathen ;  a  spiunet  and  a  spiuning-wheel ;  old 
books  and  newspapers;  collections  of  autographs,  medals,  and  minerals 
(including  zinc  ores  from  Friedensville) ;  trophies  from  the  mission- 
stations  of  the  Brethren;  and  relics  of  the  old  Pennsylvanian  settlements. 
The  finest  thing  in  the  hall  is  a  large  historical  painting  by  Schuessele, 
representing  Zeisberger  preaching  to  the  Indians. 

The  Sun  Inn  was  opened  in  1760,  and  was  carried  on  by  the  Moravians  (by 
salaried  landlords)  until  1851.  The  rates  for  transient  visitoi-s  were  2^  shilling  a 
day.  It  was  fortified  in  1763,  and  in  the  same  year  a  weekly  stage-line  to  Pliila' 
delphia  was  started.  Among  the  guests  at  the  inn  were  Generals  Gates,  Sullivan, 
Fermoy,  Schuyler,  Mifflin,  Knox,  Lafayette,  Lee,  Steuben,  Pulaski,  Poineroy, 
Lewis,  and  the  Ambassadors  of  France  and  Spain.  Generals  Riedesel  and  Philips 
and  their  staffs  (of  Burgoyne's  captive  army)  were  kept  here.  At  a  later  day 
General  and  Lady  Washington  visited  the  plaice ;  and  the  Marquis  de  Chastellux, 
in  1782,  speaks  enthusiastTcally  of  tixe  Inn. 


mm 


NAZARETH. 


Route  45.      303 


The  Sun  Hotel  wm  enlarged  to  itn  present  lize  in  1851,  bat  the  maaaiv* 
walU  and  deep-set  windowM  still  remain ;  and  the  architect's  plans  (drawn 
in  Saxony)  are  framed  in  liie  roading-room.  Above  the  hotel  a  street  to 
the  1.  leads  to  the  lofty  bridgn  over  the  Manocasy  Creek,  whence  the 
valley  i*  overlooked  and  the  Lehigh  University  is  seen.  The  drives  up 
the  Manocasy  Valley  are  pleaRant,  and  Calypso  Island,  in  the  Lehigh 
River,  is  much  visited.  On  South  Mt.  is  a  large  hydropathic  institute 
(Lehigh  Mt.  Springs;  $12-15  a  week);  and  the  Episcopal  ladies'  school 
of  Bishopthorpe  is  open  iu  summer  for  family  boarding, 

The  *  Lehigh  VniTeriitj  was  founded  by  the  Hon.  Asa  Packer  in 
1865,  and  is  under  the  auspices  of  the  Protestant  Episcopal  Church.  In 
the  first  2  years  mathematics,  the  languages,  elementary  sciences,  etc.,  are 
taught ;  and  in  the  last  2  years  the  student  passes  through  one  of  the 
6  technical  schools,  —  general  literature,  civil  engineering,  mechanical  en- 
gineering, mining  and  metallurgy,  or  analyticl  chemistry.  Tuition  in 
all  branches  is  free,  and  the  other  yearly  expenses  are  reckoned  at  $  245. 
The  vicinity  of  the  great  mining  and  engineering  works  of  the  Lehigh 
Valley  affords  special  advantages  to  such  a  polytechnic  institution.  There 
are  12  professors  and  instructors,  and  121  students.  *  Packer  Hall  is  the 
chief  building,  and  is  213  ft.  long,  with  a  fine  facade  of  stone,  and  a  lofty 
belfry-tower.  In  its  central  portion  are  the  chapel,  library,  r^jid  cabinets. 
De!>cending  the  hill  en  echelon  from  this  hall  are  the  houses  of  the  pro- 
fessors ;  and  Christmas  Hall  is  a  large  brick  dormitory-building  on  the 
E.  These  buildings  are  in  a  park  of  ancient  trees  on  a  far-viewing  spur 
of  the  Lehigh  Mts.  The  immense  rolling-mills  of  the  Bethlehem  Iron  Co. 
are  near  the  village,  and  produce  many  thousand  tons  of  Bessemer-steel 
rails.  Friedensville  is  4  M.  distant,  and  has  the  most  powerful  stationary 
engine  in  the  world.  There  are  rich  zinc-mines  in  the  fissures  of  the 
Silurian  limestone  at  this  place,  producing  yearly  3,000  tons  of  oxide  of 
zinc,  3,600  tons  of  metallic  zinc,  and  3,000  casks  of  sheet-zinc. 

Kasareth  is  10  M.  from  Bethlehem,  and  is  most  readily  reached  from 
Bath,  on  the  Lehigh  &  Lackawanna  R.  R.,  which  runs  N.  15  M.  to  the 
mines  near  Chapman's.  It  is  a  quaint  old  village  pleasantly  situated  be- 
tween the  Blue  and  the  South  Mts.,  and  is  8  - 10  M.  S.  of  the  Wind  Qap, 
a  bold  pass  in  the  Blue  Mts.,  15  M.  S.  W.  of  the  Delaware  Water  Gap. 
Nazareth  was  settled  in  1740  by  George  Whitefield  and  a  colony  of 
Moravians.  The  latter  were  soon  driven  out  by  Whitefield,  as  the  issue 
of  certain  theological. differences  ;  but  they  afterwards  bought  the  land 
and  made  it  an  appanage  of  the  Countess  of  Zinzendorf,  under  the  name 
of  the  Barony  of  Nazareth.  Here  (in  1785)  was  established  the  Moravian 
Boarding-School  for  Boys,  which  now  has  13  teachers  and  145  students. 
Morning  and  evening  prayers  and  frequent  military  drills  (in  uniform)  are 
carefully  observed.    The  main  buil<^g  is  Nazareth  Hall,  a  quaint  old 


H 


i;  I 


r 


a 


304     Route  45, 


ALLENTOWN. 


■tmctture  with  dormer-windows,  and  a  hipped-roof  snrmonnted  by  a  tall 
belfry. 

Moravia  was  Christianized  In  the  year  863,  and  in  1419  the  Bohemo-Moravian 
Church  revolted  against  the  Papacy,  and  took  up  arms  under  John  Zislca  and  the 
League  of  tlie  Hussite  Barons.  For  12  years  Catholic  armies  vrere  vainly  sent 
against  Moravia,  and  in  1431  the  fifth  and  last  crusade  was  shattered  at  the 
great  hattle  of  Tauss.  A  formal  secession  Arom  the  Catholic  Church  was 
effected ;  they  received  bishops  from  the  Waldenses,  and  suffered  several 
bloody  persecutions.  When  Luther's  Reformation  l)egan  (1517),  the  Moravians 
had  400  churches  and  200,000  communicants.  They  did  not  ETecond  the  German 
and  Swiss  reformers,  and  suffered  persecutions  from  both  Catholics  and 
Lutherans.  In  1627  they  were  totally  dispersed,  30,000  families  being  driven 
firom  the  kingdom  by  King  Ferdinand  II.  A  few  of  the  exiles  ("the  hidden 
seed  ")  gathered  at  Lissa,  in  Poland,  and  after  fresh  hardships  and  many  mar- 
tyrdoms, the  fragments  of  the  church  were  gathered  at  Hermhut,  on  the  estate 
of  the  Saxon  Count  Zinzendorf  (1722).  This  noble  was  created  a  bishop,  and 
united  the  opposing  sects  into  "  the  renewed  church,"  but  was  oppressed  by  the 
Saxons,  and  began  to  send  his  people  to  America  in  1735.  In  1741  Bishop  Nitsch- 
mann  founded  Bethlechem  (a  Hebrew- Indian  name,  meaning  "  House  on  the  Le- 
high "),  and  Count  Zinzendoif  visited  the  place  later  in  the  year,  and  named  it 
Bethlehem.  A  cluster  of  exclusively  Moravian  vUlages  arose  in  the  vicinity,  of 
which  the  chief  secular  peculiarity  was  a  communism  of  labor.  This  polity  lasted 
until  1843,  when  Lutherans  were  admitted  to  the  villages,  and  now  the  old  Mora- 
vian towns  are  open  to  all  comers.  Many  of  the  distinctive  traits  of  the  sect  have 
I>assud  away,  and  it  now  includes  (in  America)  66  churches,  with  6,400  members, 
governed  by  5  bishops  with  very  limited  ex  officio  powers.  The  chief  strength 
of  the  church  is  in  Penn.,  Wisconsin,  and  N.  Carolina. 

The  Diaspora  (to  the  cold  state-churches  of  Europe)  and  the  Pitgrims  (to  the 
heathen  Indians)  are  the  titles  of  the  two  great  missionary  enterprises  of  the  Con- 
tinental and  Moravian  Provinces  (both  begun  about  1750,  and  still  active).  The 
maintenance  of  remote  and  perilous  missions  is  now  the  chief  work  of  the  church. 
There  are  6  stations  in  Greenland,  5  in  Labrador,  3  among  the  Indians,  46  in  the 
W.  Indies,  12  in  S.  America,  12  in  S.  Africa,  8  in  Australia,  and  2  in  Thil)et,  em- 
ploying 318  missionaries,  and  having  under  care  70,311  converts  (Moravian  Manual, 
1869).  The  church  is  divided  into  the  English,  Continental,  and  American  Prov- 
inces, and  holds  to  the  evangelical  doctrines  as  set  forth  in  the  Augsburg  Con- 
fession. 

In  1755  the  Indian  tribes  declared  war  on  the  colonies,  and  the  Moravian  mis- 
sionaries to  the  W.  were  cruelly  massacred.  Bishop  Spangenberg  fortified  Beth- 
lehem, and  it  l)ecame  a  city  of  reftige  on  the  outer  frontier.  In  1775  the  Vii^ginian 
troops,  marching  to  the  siege  of  Boston,  halted  here,  and  afterward  large  bodies 
of  soldiers  and  prisoners  of  war  were  moved  by  this  route.  In  1776  the  general 
hospital  of  the  Continental  Army  was  located  in  the  village ;  and  out  of  2,000 
patients  more  than  400  died.  After  the  defeat  at  the  Brandywine,  the  baggage  of 
the  army  was  parked  here  in  900  wagons,  and  many  memljers  of  Congress  fled 
hither  after  the  fall  of  Philadelphia.  Meantime,  from  the  foundation  of  the  place 
until  the  expulsion  of  the  Indians,  many  delegations  of  the  Delawares,  Six  Na- 
tions, Wyomings,  and  other  tribes  visited  the  United  Brethren  at  Betlilehem,  and 
were  kindly  treated.  With  the  recent  development  of  the  iron-manufacture,  a 
large  alien  population  has  come  in,  and  now  but  \  of  the  people  are  Moravians. 
In  former  times  this  people  feared  the  Irish  more  than  the  Indians,  and  were  re- 
viled by  them  as  '*  d— d  Hernhutters." 

After  leaving  S.  Bethlehem  the  train  passes  along  the  Lehigh  River  and 
near  South  Mt.,  and  beyond  the  divergence  of  the  Allentown  Line  (Route 
36)  at  the  E.  Penn.  R.  R.  it  stops  at  , 

Allentown  (American  House,  $2.50  a  day),  the  capital  of  Lehigh 
County,  favorably  situated  on  high  ground  S.  of  the  Lehigh  and  at  its 
confluence  with  the  Little  Lehigh  and  Jordan  Creek.    It  was  founded  by 


ALLENTOWN. 


R<nUe  45.      305 


James  Allen  in  1762,  and  became  a  city  in  1867.  There  are  17,061  in- 
habitants, 3  banks,  2  daily  papers,  and  21  churches.  The  population  is 
to  a  large  extent  "  Penn.  Dutch  "  (descendants  of  Qermans  of  the  old  im- 
migrations) ;  and  the  domestic  architecture  is  monotonous,  comfortable, 
and  cleanly.  The  streets  are  broad,  straight,  rectangulai ,  and  well  shaded, 
and  are  traversed  by  horse-cars.  Hamilton  St.  is  the  main  thoroughfare, 
and  is  IJ  M.  long.  The  stone  viaduct  over  the  Jordan  valley  (1,800  ft. 
long,  50  ft.  high ;  19  arches)  and  the  iron  bridge  over  the  Lehigh  are 
worthy  of  notice.  Tlie  County  Prison  is  a  fine  building  of  Potsdam  sand- 
stone, in  castellated  architecture,  overlooking  the  valley.  It  cost  $  250,000. 
The  Court  House  is  on  tlie  main  street ;  and  the  school  buildings  are  of 
renowned  excellence  (56  teachers  and  3,150  students).  The  Academy  of 
Natural  Science  has  several  cabinets  of  curiosities.  Muhlenberg  College 
is  situated  on  a  campxis  of  5  acres,  in  the  S.  E.  part  of  the  city.  It  is  a 
prosperous  institution  under  the  patronage  of  the  Lutheran  Church,  and 
has  9  professors  and  135  students.  The  Allentown  Female  College  is  on 
high  ground  in  the  N.  E.,  and  has  83  students. 

Mammoth  Book  is  a  peak  of  the  Lehigh  Mt.  3  M.  from  Allentown  and 
1,200  ft.  above  the  plain,  whence  is  gained  a  comprehensive  view  of  the 
Lehigh  and  Saucon  Valleys.  The  remarkable  fountains  in  this  vicinity 
are  often  visited,  and  near  the  principal  one  is  the  summer  resort  known 
as  the  Fountain  House.    2  M.  N.  is  an  extensive  cavern. 

This  district  was  first  occupied  by  the  Aliens,  whose  mansion  of  Trout  HaU 
stood  near  the  site  of  Mulilenberg  College.  It  was  inherited  by  Wm.  Allen,  Chief 
Justice  of  Peun.,  and  was  laid  out  in  1762  by  James  Allen.  The  first  settlers 
were  Germans ;  but  the  lofty  situation  of  tlte  place  rendered  it  difficult  to  get  a 
water-supply  and  hen(;c  retarded  colonization.  In  1777  the  bells  of  Christ  Church 
in  Philadelphia  were  brought  here  to  save  them  Arom  the  British  ;  and  in  the 
same  year  a  large  army-hospital  was  established  in  the  vicinity.  The  rise  of  the 
iron  manufacture  and  the  construction  of  railroads  and  canals  converging  on  this 
point,  have  given  the  city  great  importance  within  20  years.  Coal,  limestone, 
and  iron  ore  are  foimd  in  vast  quantities  in  the  vicinity ;  and  the  valley  for  10  M. 
from  Allentown  is  li;^hted  up  at  night  by  the  lurid  glow  of  many  furnaces.  The 
Allentown  Rolling-Mill  haa  ^2,000,000  capital,  covers  4  acres,  employs  900  men, 
and  turns  out  yearly  18,000  tons  pig-iron,  30,000  tons  rails,  and  20,000  tons  mer- 
chant iron.  The  Allentown  Iron- Works  has  ^800,000  capital,  5  furnaces,  and  27 
mines,  employs  900  men  (includhig  miners),  consumes  yearly  100,000  tons  ore, 
90,000  tons  coal,  and  67,000  tons  limestone  ;  and  produces  yearly  45,000  tons  No. 
1  pig-iron.  The  Lehigh  and  the  Glen  Iron  Companies  also  have  extensive  works ; 
besides  which  there  are  manufactories  of  boilers,  carriages,  shoes,  woollen  goods, 
and  leather ;  and  1,200  hands  are  engaged  in  tobacco-works. 

After  leaving  Allentown  the  train  passes  the  great  furnaces  and  stops  at 
Cata^auqua.  The  village  is  seen  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river,  and 
contains  6,000  inhabitants  and  9  churches.  In  1839  there  were  but  2 
houses  here  ;  but  the  rapid  development  of  the  iron  trade  has  caused  the 
borough  to  rise.  The  Crane  Iron  Co.  has  6  furnaces,  employs  at  the 
wdrks  1,000  men,  and  consumed,  in  1872,  138,392  tons  iron  ore,  108,274 
tons  coal,  and  82,400  tons  limestone,  producing  54,037  tons  iron.  Penn. 
hematite  and  N.  J.  magnetic  ores  are  used.    The  Catasauqua  MT g  Co. 

T 


306      Route  45.         LEHIGH  WATER  GAP. 


' 


'^ 


employs  600  men  in  making  bar-iron  and  axles ;  the  Car  Works  make 
1,500 -1,800  coal  and  freight  cars  yearly,  employing  130  men  ;  shovels, 
saws,  steam-engines,  etc.,  are  made  here,  and  there  are  large  importations 
of  iron  ore  from  Lake  Champlain  and  the  excellent  tough  iron  of  Salis- 
bury, Conn,  (for  the  Lehigh  Car- Wheel  Co.,  which  makes  25,000  wheels 
yearly).  The  ancient  stone  mansion  of  George  Butler  (signer  of  the  Dec- 
laration of  Independence)  is  above  the  village,  and  was  a  frontier  fortress 
200  years  ago.  In  Fairview  Cemetery,  on  the  commanding  hills  W.  of 
the  Lehigh,  is  a  handsome  Soldiers'  Monument,  of  white  marble. 

The  CatoMAUiwi.  d  FogelaviUe  R.  R.  runs  from  opposite  Catasauqua  20  M.  S.  W.  to 
Alburtis,  on  the  E.  Penn.  R.  R.,  and  is  chiefly  used  for  the  transportation  of  iron 
ore  from  the  great  mines  of  Lehigh  County.  4  M.  below  Catasauqua  it  crosses  the 
ravine  of  Jordun  Creek  on  a  handsome  iron  bridge  1,165  ft.  long,  in  11  arches. 

At  Hokendauqua  (an  Indian  name  meaning  **  searching  for  land,"  —  ap- 
plied to  the  first  settlers),  1  M.  beyond  Catasauqua,  are  seen  the  4  great 
furnaces  of  the  Thomas  Iron  Co.,  so  named  in  honor  of  David  Thomas  of 
Wales,  who  introduced  into  the  U.  S.  the  art  of  making  iron  by  anthracite 
coal  (1 840).    The  engines  are  of  4, 400  horse-power,  and  $  1,750,000  capital 
and  400  men  are  employed,  making  yearly  50,000  tons  of  pig-iron  from 
125,000  tons  ore,  100,000  tons  coal,  and  75,0()0  tons  limestone.  The  next  sta- 
tion is  Coplay,  the  seat  of  the  Lehigh  Valley  Iron  Works  ($  600,000  capital ; 
110  men ;  producing  25,000  tons  yearly)  and  the  Coplay  Hydraulic  Cement 
quarries  and  kilns  (60,000  barrels  yearly).    A  bridge  crosses  the  river  to 
Laubach's,  and  a  railroad  runs  W.  to  the  ore-beds  at  Ironton.    Station, 
Whitehall,  near  the  ancient  Egypt  Church  (1742)  and  opposite  Siegfried. 
The  slate  region  is  now  traversed,  and  quarries  and  piles  of  debris  are 
seen  near  the  track.    The  railroad  was  carried  through  this  rugged  dis- 
trict with  great  difficulty,  and  at  a  cost  of  $  100,000  a  mile.    Near  Bock- 
dale  the  train  passes  through  a  cut  100  ft.  deep,  in  a  lofty  cliff  of  slate. 
Slatington  has  over  2,000  inhabitants,  with  5  churches  (of  which  2  are 
American,  2  Welsh,  and  1  German).    It  was  founded  in  1854,  and  is  the 
exporting  point  of  the  slate  region.    The  slate  is  of  the  finest  quality  of 
pure  clay,  and  the  U.  S.  Capitol  is  roofed  with  squares  of  it  ^  inch  thick. 
The  quarries  have  $  500,000  capital,  employing  600  men ;  and  the  pro- 
duction in  1872  was  67,000  squares  of  roofing  slate,  11,000  squares  of 
school  slate,  3,000  cases  of  mantels,  20,000  ft.  of  flagging,  and  32  tons  of 
blackboards.    A  branch  track  runs  to  the  Slatedale  quarries,  Zi^  M.  dis- 
tant.    Walnulport  is  seen  on  the  opposite  shore,  and  large  mounds  of 
debris  from  the  quarries  are  passed  as  the  train  moves  into  the  shadow  of 
the  Kittatinny  Mts. 

The  *  Lehigh  Water  Gap  is  the  deep  gorge  in  which  the  Lehigh  River 
flows  through  the  Kittatinny  Mts.  The  tall  hills  arise  on  either  side 
directly  from  the  river,  and  are  clad  with  ancient  forests.  The  Lehigh 
Gap  station  is  at  the  foot  of  the  DeviVa  Pvljpit,  a  lofty  pile  of  rocks  pro- 


■'i 


MAUCH  CHUNK. 


R(mie  45.      307 


jecting  from  the  W.  ridge.  There  is  a  small  rammer  hotel  on  the  R 
shore,  and  the  broad  deep  river  affords  good  boating.  The  views  from 
the  ridges  are  fine,  especially  over  the  peaceful  farm-lands  of  Lehigh 
County  (S  ),  and  through  the  sinuous  pass,  which  is  entirely  filled  by  the 
railroads,  canal,  river,  and  highway.  Deposits  of  ore  are  found  here, 
from  which  5-6,000  tons  of  mineral  paint  (in  11  colors)  are  made  yearly. 
Station,  Parryville  (E.  shore),  the  seat  of  the  Carbon  Iron  Works,  with  3 
furnaces,  150  men,  and  a  yearly  product  of  7,000  tons.  The  remarkable 
rock  formations  known  as  the  Devil's  Oarden  are  near  the  village.  Sta- 
tion, Lehighton  (American  House),  a  large  village  situated  on  high  ground. 
1  M.  S.  is  "  Tlie  Spring  of  the  Healing  Waters,"  whose  medicinal  virtues 
were  extolled  by  the  Moravians  in  1748.  The  Mahoning  Valley  stretches 
away  to  Tamaqua,  14  M.  S.  W.,  between  the  Mahoning  and  Mauch  Chunk 
Mts.  In  the  same  vicinity  is  the  great  swamp  which  the  Indians  called 
Taioamensing^  and  Count  Zinzendorf  named  St.  Anthony's  Wilderness. 
Later  fugitives  from  the  Wyoming  massacre  called  it  the  Shades  of  Death. 
Weissport  (Fort  Allen  Hotel)  is  opposite  Lehighton,  and  contains  large 
iron-works. 

In  1746  the  Moravians  established  a  colony  of  Christian  Mohegaii  Indians  (from 
Connecticut)  near  tlie  Hite  of  Leliighton,  and  named  it  Gnadenhutten  ("  Tents  of 
Grace  ").  Tlie  missionaries  and  their  converts  tilled  the  soil,  and  made  productive 
farms  along  the  valley.  Brainerd  and  Zeisberger  found  a  community  of  500  per- 
sons  here  ;  and  considerable  portions  of  tlie  Bible  were  translated  into  the  Mohe- 
gan  language.  Some  years  later  most  of  the  people  moved  across  the  river  (to 
Weissport)  and  formed  a  new  village,  with  the  Mohegans  on  one  side  of  the  street 
and  the  Christian  Delawares  from  Menialagemeka  on  the  other.  During  the 
months  of  devastation  and  rapine  which  followed  Braddock's  defeat,  Gnadenhut- 
ten  was  attacked  by  French  Indians,  and  11  Moravians  were  killed  in  the  mission- 
house.  (A  memorial  monument  stands  in  the  cemetery  near  the  R.  R.  station.) 
The  Christian  Indians  at  Weissport  were  eager  to  cross  and  fall  upon  their  pagan 
kinsmen,  but  the  pastors  restrained  them.  Colonial  troops  were  hurried  forward 
and  garrisoned  the  new  village,  but  they  were  soon  attacked  by  surprise,  lost 
many  men,  and  made  a  rapid  retreat  down  the  valley,  leaving  the  place  to  be 
totally  destroyed  by  the  invaders.  In  1756  Benjamin  Franklin  came  up  with  a  suf- 
ficient force  and  built  Fort  Allen  (on  the  site  of  Weissport)  as  a  frontier  defence. 

Station,  Packerton,  with  the  long  lines  of  parallel  tracks  where  the  im- 
mense coal-trains  are  weighed  and  made  up.  The  scales  are  122^  ft.  long, 
with  a  capacity  of  103  tons,  and  weigh  7  cars  at  a  time,  while  moving 
rapidly.  The  B.  R.  freight  and  coal-car  shops  are  located  here,  and  em- 
ploy 560  men.  In  the  vicinity  is  the  deer-park  (75  acres)  pertaining  to 
the  railroad  ;  also  the  trout-farm  of  Mr.  Lentz.  The  train  now  crosses 
the  Lehigh  on  a  Whipple  iron  bridge  485  ft.  long,  sweeps  around  the  base 
of  Bear  Mt.,  and  stops  at 

Manoh  Chunk, 

{^Matision  House,  400  guests,  $3  a  day,  $14  -21  a  week ;  *  American 
Hotel),  the  capital  of  Carbon  County,  and  situated  on  the  r.  bank  of  the 
Lehigh  River.  It  is  89  M.  from  Philadelphia  and  121  M.  from  New  York 
(without  change  of  cars).    The  village  in  picturesquely  situated  at  the 


f 


308     lt(yiUe4S. 


MAUCH  CHUNK. 


bottom  of  a  deep  and  narrow  ravine  npon  which  the  steep  hills  crowd  so 
closely  as  to  confine  the  houses  to  one  street  and  to  tilt  the  yards  and 
gardens  to  a  sharp  angle.  It  is  often  called  the  most  picturesque  town  in 
America,  and  probably  is  excelled  only  by  Quebec.  The  adjacent  mts. 
attain  a  height  of  7  -  900  ft.  above  the  street ;  and  the  huts  of  the  poorer 
people  are  reached  by  ladder-like  stairways.  This  locality  is  called  "the 
Switzerland  of  America,"  but  the  scenery  is  rather  Tyrolese  than  Swiss. 
Many  sketches  were  made  here  by  Hertzog,  the  famous  artist  of  the 
Diisseldorf  Academy.  l%e  most  prominent  object  is  the  tall  St.  Mark's 
Church  (Episcopal),  with  large  windows  of  stained  glass  and  a  sturdy 
tower.  The  church  is  built  of  a  cream-colored  stone,  and  stands  on  a 
narrow  terrace  above  the  houses.  Its  architectural  harmony  with  the 
surrounding  scenery  is  the  theme  of  much  praise.  The  village  has  4  other 
churches,  2  banks,  several  iron-works,  and  a  strong  and  fortress-like 
county  prison.  On  the  N.  are  the  mansions  of  Hon.  John  Leisenring  and 
Hon.  Asa  Packer  (President  of  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  B.  and  founder  of 
the  Lehigh  University  at  S.  Bethlehem).  The  suburb  oi  E,  Mauch 
Chunk  is  situated  across  the  river  and  above  the  village.  The  heights 
which  environ  Mauch  Chunk  are  Mauch  Chunk  Mt.  and  Mt.  Pisgah,  spurs 
of  Sharp  Mt. ;  and  Bear  Mt.  is  across  the  river  (700  ft.  high).  Mauch 
Chimk  (pronounced  Mauk  Chiink)  is  an  Indian  name  which  means  Bear 
Mt.  Every  foot  of  the  narrow  pass  before  and  below  the  Mansion  House 
is  taken  up  by  the  2  railroads,  the  street,  road,  river,  and  canal,  —  all 
running  side  by  side;  and  through  this  artery  of  commerce  passes  an 
almost  unbroken  line  of  cars  or  boats  laden  with  coaL 

In  1791  a  lonely  hunter,  whose  hut  was  in  the  great  uninhabited  forest  of  the 
Lehigh,  was  returning  home  after  a  long  and  imsuccessful  chase,  when  he  saw,  at 
the  foot  of  a  fallen  tree,  some  curious  black  stones,  which  he  carried  in  to  the 
nearest  settlement.  They  were  thence  sent  to  Philadelphia,  where  the  savants 
pronounced  them  to  be  stone  coal,  but  uninflammable.  In  1793  a  mine  was  opened 
on  Sharp  Mt.  by  the  Lehigh  Coal  Co.,  who  had  become  possessed  of  12,000  acres 
of  land  here.  It  was  soon  abandoned  on  account  of  the  popular  prejudice  against 
anthracite  coal,  and  the  difficulty  of  getting  it  to  market.  In  1813  5  ark-loads 
were  sent  down  the  river,  and  3  of  the  arks  were  wrecked ;  the  remaining  coal 
bringing  $21  a  ton.  In  1818  the  river  was  cleared  and  366  tons  were  sent  to 
Philadelphia,  which  stocked  the  market  for  a  year.  It  was  floated  down  in 
wooden  arks,  which  were  broken  up  for  lumber  at  Philadelphia  ;  and  the  boatmen 
returned  to  the  mts.  on  foot,  bearing  the  iron-work  of  the  arks  to  build  new  ones 
with.  This  process  lasted  for  13  years,  and  in  1841  13  M.  of  arks  were  built,  and 
carried  41,000  tons  to  the  city.  The  coal  was  carted  over  the  hills  for  9  M.  until 
1827,  when  the  Summit  Hill  R.  R.  was  built,  and  operated  by  mule-power.  The 
mules  rode  down  with  the  coal,  and  then  dragged  the  empty  cars  up  to  the  Sum- 
mit. In  1844  stationary  engines  were  substituted.  The  Lehigh  slack-water  navi- 
gation was  opened  in  1829,  and  the  canal  extended  N.  to  Whitehaven  until  its 
destruction  by  the  great  freshet  of  1862.  In  this  flood  many  scores  of  lives  were 
lost ;  all  the  bridges,  locks,  and  dams  were  swept  away  ;  and  the  Mansion  House 
had  28  inches  of  water  on  the  second  floor.  The  wrecked  canal  was  replaced  by  a 
first-class  railroad.  The  Lehigh  Coal  and  Navigation  Co.  owns  6,500  acres  of 
land  about  Mauch  Chunk,  estimated  to  contain  600,000,000  tons  of  coal.  Its 
capital  is  $  20,000,000,  and  the  coal  shipments  to  the  E.  in  1873  amounted  to  nearly 
8,000,000  tons. 


SUMMIT  HILL. 


Jtoute  45,      309 


For  many  yean  the  people  refused  to  bay  the  coal,  doubting  its  iaflammabllity. 
and  mechanics  were  often  bribed  to  try  it  Tlie  city  of  Philadelphia  attempted 
its  use  at  the  water-wor)<s  ;  but  the  engineers  asserted  that  it  put  out  tlie  nres, 
and  the  remainder  of  the  consignment  was  broken  up  and  scattered  on  the  Hide- 
walks.  The  coal-bed  on  Maitch  Chunk  Mt.  is  the  thickest  known  (53  ft.)>  and  the 
coal  itself  is  the  hardest  which  can  be  found. 

The  Mauch  Chunk  <k  Summit  HUl  R.  R.  runs  8  passenger-trains  daily 
(fare,  50c.;  round  trip,  90c.;  hotel-coach  to  and  from  the  station,  ^  M., 
25c.  each  way).  Ascending  Susquehanna  St.  by  the  Court  House,  and 
passing  up  the  hill  between  the  Packer  (1.)  and  Leisenring  (r.)  mansions, 
several  coal-shutes  are  seen  on  the  r.,  and  the  hamlet  of  K  Mauch  Chunk 
is  overlooked.  The  cars  are  pulled  up  from  Upper  Mauch  Chunk  by 
broad  steel  bands  attached  to  stationary  engines  at  the  summit,  and  are 
provided  with  iron  arms  which  would  drop  into  the  central  ratchet-rail 
and  hold  the  car  if  anything  gave  way.  No  accident  has  ever  taken  place 
on  this  road.  The  bands  and  cogs  are  attached  to  the  "  safety-car,"  which 
is  behind  the  passenger-cars  (accommodating  30  persons  each).  Before 
the  decline  of  the  coal-traffic  over  this  route  the  coal- cars  carried  3  tons 
each,  and  each  descending  loaded  car  drew  up  an  empty  one.  The  first 
plane  leads  to  the  summit  of  Mt.  Fisgah,  850  ft.  above  the  river,  by  a 
track  which  ascends  664  ft.  in  a  length  of  2,322  ft.  (6-8  minutes).  A 
grand  view  is  obtained  from  Mt.  Pisgah,  including  many  of  the  Blue 
Mts.,  the  Lehigh  Water  Gap,  Schooley's  Mt.  (56  M.  distant),  and  the 
busy  scenes  on  the  river  below,  with  the  quaint  street  of  Mauch  Chunk. 
\  M.  from  this  summit  is  the  far-viewing  Pavilion.  The  train  now  starts 
on  the  gravity-road,  and  runs  down  for  6^  M.  to  a  village  at  the  foot  of 
Mt.  Jeifersoni  descending  302  ft.  Here  another  plane  is  climbed  by  a 
safety-car  over  a  track  which  ascends  462  ft.  in  a  length  of  2,070  ft.,  and 
the  summit  of  Mt.  Jefferson^  the  highest  point  on  the  road,  is  reached. 
The  Bloomingdale  Valley  is  seen  throughout  its  whole  extent  from  this 
peak.  After  1  M.  of  transit  (descending  45  ft.)  the  tiain  stops  at  Sammit 
Hill  (3  hotels),  the  chief  town  of  the  district,  with  2,000  inhabitants 
(minera  and  their  families),  and  a  gloomy  and  massive  old  stone  tower 
which  was  built  for  an  armory.  The  clear  mt.  air  attracts  many  summer 
visitors  to  this  place.  Tamaqua  is  visible  from  the  summit,  far  below  ; 
and  the  Panther-Creek  Valley  opens  away  in  another  direction,  with 
the  long-discontinued  route  of  the  gravity  railroad  leading  out  for  2  M. 
The  latter  section  is  the  centre  of  the  coal  region,  and  visitors  sometimes 
enter  the  mines  there.  Immense  breaker  biiildings  and  mountainous 
heaps  of  coal-dust  are  scattered  through  the  valley,  and  the  remains  of 
the  old  Switch  Back  R.  R.  are  seen  on  the  slopes.  Near  Summit  Hill  are 
3  mines  which  have  been  burning  since  1832,  although  great  sums  of 
money  have  been  spent  in  endeavors  to  extinguish  them.  The  intensity  of 
the  heat  about  the  mouth  of  the  crater  has  calcined  and  shattered  the 
rocks.    The  return  to  Upper  Mauch  Chunk  is  made  on  a  descending 


/ 


310     Route  4B, 


GLEN  ONOKO. 


grade  of  96  ft.  to  the  mile,  and  the  distance  (9  M. )  is  traversed  in  20-80 
minutes. 

Olen  Onoko  is  2  M.  above  Mauch  Chunk,  and  has  recently  been  opened 
and  provided  with  paths  and  bridges.  It  is  a  ravine  varying  from  10  to 
80  ft  in  width,  and  ascending  W.  for  900  ft.  to  the  summit  of  Broad  Mt. 
The  rock  and  forest  scenery  is  attractive,  and  there  are  numerous  cascades, 
which  are  beautiful  in  seasons  of  high  water.  Leaving  the  Lehigh  near 
the  sharp  curve  at  the  Turn  Hole  Bridge,  the  visitor  passes  the  Entrance 
Cascade  and  Pool,  the  Crystal  Cascade,  the  Piilpit  Rocks  (1.),  Moss 
Cascade,  and  the  white  descending  waters  of  the  Fawn's  Leap.  Pleasant 
views  of  the  Spectre  Cuscade  are  obtained  from  the  rustic  bridge  below, 
and  then  the  heart  of  the  glen  is  entered,  with  its  tall  hemlocks  bending 
around  the  Stairway  Cascades.  From  the  kuoU  beyond  the  next  bridge 
is  gained  a  fine  view  of  the  falls  in  advance,  with  a  downward  retrospect 
through  the  forest.  The  Chameleon  Falls  are  50  ft.  high,  and  derive 
their  name  from  thsir  prismatic  colors.  The  Eljin  Grotto  and  Tempest 
Rocks  are  passed,  and  then  the  Rainbow  Cascade,  beyond  which  are  the 
Onoko  Falli,  the  most  notable  of  the  series,  where  the  brook  plunges 
over  a  cliff  75-90  ft.  high.  Climbing  the  cliff,  and  crossing  the  water  at 
the  head  of  the  falls  (to  the  1. ),  Sunrise  Point  is  soon  reached,  with  its 
view  down  the  Lehigh  Valley,  by  Mauch  Chunk,  to  the  Water  Gap. 
Then  Terrace  Falls  are  seen,  and  the  Cave  Falls,  behind  which  is  a 
shallow  grotto  which  is  frequently  visited  for  the  sake  of  the  outlook 
through  the  falling  waters.  A  forest-path  leads  up  to  the  Rock-Cabin  (in 
8-400  ft.),  a  favorite  resting-place.  |  M.  thence  (and  1^  M.  from  the 
entrance)  is  Packer's  Point,  which  is  provided  with  an  elevated  rustic 
platform  from  which  a  broad  valley-view  .    gained. 

James  Run  is  a  picturesque  trout-brook,  near  whose  head  is  a  cluster 
of  singular  sand-springs,  ^ony  Creek  flows  through  fine  forest  scenery 
above  Glen  Onoko,  and  forms  the  bright  Minisink  FaUs.  S.  of  Mauch 
Chunk  are  Judge  Packer's  deer-parks  and  Lentz's  trout-ponds,  containing 
600,000  trout.  Prospect  Rock  is  a  projecting  ledge  just  S.  of  the  Mansion 
House,  commanding  a  view  of  the  valley  and  villages.  Above  this  point 
is  the  Flag-Staff  peak  (30  minutes  from  the  Mansion  House),  with  a  far 
more  extensive  view.  The  tall  trunk  of  a  lightning-blasted  hemlock-tree 
formerly  stood  on  this  summit;  and  on  its  topmost  section  an  American 
flag  was  nailed  in  1861,  and  left  until  torn  to  pieces  by  storms.  At  the 
outbreak  of  the  Franco-Prussian  w:*i'  a  Prussian  flag  was  fastened  here, 
and  the  tree  was  cut  down  the  following  night  by  sympathizers  with  the 
French. 


After  leaving  Mauch  Chunk,  the  train  passes  E.  Mauch  Chunk  and 
Glen  Onoko,  and  then  Coalport,  a  prominent  coal-shipping  point  at  the 


HAZLETON. 


Jt(mte4S.      311 


din  20-80 


head  of  the  canal.  The  Kittochtinny  Oorge  is  soon  passed  on  the  r.,  and 
the  scenery  grows  very  picturesque.  Tall  wooded  hills  hem  in  the  ravine 
through  which  flows  the  impetuous  Lehigh,  and  the  narrow  ledge  on  the 
opposite  bank  is  occupied  by  the  L.  &  S.  R.  R.  The  train  soon  crosses 
the  river  to  Pexin  Haven  Janotion,  near  the  long  planes  of  the  Hazleton 
Coal  Co. 

From  this  point  diverge  3  branch  roads  through  the  coal-regions  to  the 
W.  The  Beaver  Meadow  Division  passes  Black  Creek  Junction  and 
Weatherby  (with  locomotive  and  car-works),  then'ascends  for  3  M.  a  grade 
of  145  ft.  to  the  mile,  and  at  Hazle  Creek  diverges  from  the  Mahanoy  Di- 
vision and  the  Buck  Mt.  R  R.  (which  runs  3  M.  N.  to  collieries  which 
employ  300  hands,  and  yield  180,000  tons  yearly).  The  coal-mining  vil- 
lages of  Beaver  Meadow,  Leviston,  and  Jeanesville  are  next  passed,  with 
mounds  of  black  dust  and  refuse  along  the  track,  and  the  immense  coal- 
breaker  buildings  are  seen  here  and  there.  Audenried  (16  M.  from  Penn. 
Haven)  is  the  terminal  station,  and  has  the  largest  breakers  in  the  Beaver 
Meadow  district.  The  Mahanoy  Division  divei^es  at  Black  Creek,  and 
traverses  a  lumber  region  to  the  Little  Schuylkill  River,  which  is  crossed 
by  a  fine  viaduct  85  ft.  high.  At  Quakake  Junction  connectiouw  are  made 
with  the  Catawissa  R.  R.  (see  Route  47).  The  train  now  ascends  Broad 
Mt.  on  a  grade  of  76  ft.  to  a  mile,  and  extensive  and  beautiful  views  are 
gained  from  the  windows.  At  Delano  are  large  railroad  repair- shops, 
and  4  M.  beyond  is  Mahanoy  City  {Mansion  Housed  which  has  6,000 
inhabitants  and  10  chiirches  (2  Welsh,  2  German).  In  this  vicinity  are 
20  collieries,  with  a  capital  of  $1,500,000,  employing  4,000  men  and  boys, 
and  having  a  capacity  of  7  -  800,000  tons  a  year.  The  "  city  "  has  grown 
mostly  since  1862,  and  has  1  bank,  2  weekly  papers,  and  a  main  street  1 
M.  long  and  80  ft.  wide.  The  name  Mahanoy  is  Indian.  Passing  now 
the  collieries  at  Myersville  and  Yatesville,  the  train  enters  the  borough  of 
Shenandoah  (2  inns).  This  place  was  founded  in  1863,  and  has  5,000  in- 
habitants, 2  banks,  a  weekly  paper,  and  9  churches  (3  German,  3  Welsh). 
It  is  situated  in  the  rich  Shenandoah  coal-basin,  which  contains  4  square 
M.,  and  has  12  collieries,  producing,  in  1872,  1,006,914  tons.  The  train 
passes  thence  down  the  valley  by  the  mines  at  Raven  Run  and  Centralia 
to  Mt.  Carmel  (6  collieries;  600,000  tons  yearly).  The  coal-roads  of  the 
Reading  R.  R.  are  often  seen  W,  of  Mahanoy,  and  on  their  line  passenger 
trains  run  from  Mt.  Carmel  to  Sunbury,  on  the  N.  Central  R.  R. 

The  Hazleton  Division  diverges  from  the  Beaver  Meadow  Division  at 
Hazle  Creek  Bridge,  .nd  has  several  branch  tracks  through  the  coal-fields. 
Stations,  Jeddo  (300,000  tons  yearly),  Drifton  (150,000  tons),  Woodside 
(50,000  tons).  Highland  (75,000  tons),  Ebervale  (250,000  tons),  Harleigh 
(150,000  tons),  Lattimer  (200,000  tons),  Milnesville  (75,000  tons),  and 
Stockton  (350,000  tons).    Hasleton  is  1,800  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  has 


312     Routers, 


WILKES-BABBE. 


5,000  inhabitants,  8  churches,  and  a  daily  paper.  It  is  well  laid  oat,  and 
has  an  ample  supply  of  gas  and  water.  The  main  street  is  1  M.  long  and 
100  ft.  wide,  and  has  many  fine  buildings,  chief  among  which  is  the  town- 
hall.  Large  railroad-shops  are  located  here,  and  over  1,000,000  tons  of 
coal  ore  mined  in  the  vicinity  every  ye&r.  Here  is  the  deepest  mine  in 
the  U.  S.,  having  a  perpendicular  depth  of  970  ft.  The  railroad  crosses 
the  mts.  over  the  Conyngham  Valley,  and  at  Tomhiukeu  connects  with 
the  Danville,  Hazleton  k  Wilkes-Barre  B.  R,  which  runs  W.  to  Sunbury 
in44M. 

Beyond  Penn  Haven  the  main  line  continues  up  the  narrow  glen  of  the 
Lehigh,  through  Tyrolese  scenery.  Stony  Creek  is  a  famous  trouting 
stream,  and  far  up  in  its  ravine  are  the  Miuisink  Falls.  Deep  cuts  are 
traversed,  and  the  line  is  carried  along  the  steep  slopes  on  substantial 
galleries.  Passing  several  lumber-stations  and  the  small  hamlets  of 
.Rockport  and  Tannery,  the  train  follows  the  Lehigh  River  for  many  miles, 
with  the  Green  Mts.  on  the  1.,  then  crosses  to  iVhitehaven  (dinner  at 
restaurant  in  the  station;  Whitehaven  Hotel),  a  large  village  on  the  verge 
of  the  middle  coal-field,  and  chiefly  engaged  in  the  lumber  business 
(36,000,000  ft.  yearly).  A  canal  was  formerly  used  between  Whitehaven 
and  Easton,  but  it  was  destroyed  in  1862  by  a  flood,  which  rose  30  ft. 
high,  and  destroyed  150  human  lives,  and  $2,500,000  worth  of  property 
(including  every  bridge  on  the  Lehigh  save  three).  The  train  runs  near 
the  Lehigh  &  Susquehanna  R.  R.  for  many  miles  over  heavy  upward 
grades,  and  after  passing  the  Luzemo  Ochre  Works  at  Moosehead  turns 
W.  and  traverses  the  ragged  Nescopec  Mts.  to  Fairview  station  at  Moun- 
tain Top  (inn),  whence  the  Wapwallopen  Valley  is  seen  in  the  S.  W.  for 
over  40  M.  The  L.  &  S.  R.  R.  is  now  crossed,  and  the  track  begins  to 
descend  in  Solomon's  Gap.  Ashley  village  is  seen  in  the  Valley  of  Wyo- 
ming, 3  M.  distant,  and  an  inclined  plane  for  coal-cars  descends  thence 
from  the  Gap  (its  stationary  engines  are  seen  on  the  r. ).  The  railroad 
now  runs  S.  for  5  M.,  then  turns  sharply  and  runs  N.  6  M.,  thus  reaching 
on  long  descending  planes  the  valley  and  the  villages  of  Newport  and 
Ashley.  The  views  of  V7yoroiug  Valley  are  very  beautiful.  The  grade 
averages  95  ft.  to  the  mile.  Beyond  Newport  and  Espy's  Gap,  Warrior's 
Gap,  with  its  coal-breaker,  is  seen  on  the  r.  In  these  dark  defiles  hun- 
dreds of  fugitives  from  the  valley  took  refuge  during  the  massacre  of 
1778.  Beyond  Sugar  Notch  large  collieries  are  seen  on  the  r.,  and  from 
Ashley,  Solomon's  Gap  and  its  inclined  plane  diverge  to  the  r.  The  train 
soon  enters  Wilkes-Barre  (*  Wyoming  VaUey  Hotel,  $  3.50  a  day,  $  14  -  20 
a  week,  a  summer  resort  fronting  on  the  river;  Lvjzeme  House ;  Ex- 
change), the  capital  of  Luzerne  County^  pleasantly  situated  on  the  Susque- 
hanna River.  It  has  25,000  inhabitants,  18  churches,  and  5  banks.  The 
principal  business  streets  intersect  at  a  diamond-shaped  square  in  the 


VALLEY  OF  WYOMING.       Route  45.      313 


centre  of  the  city,  on  which  is  the  Court  House,  a  large  stmcture  in  a 
peculiar  Romanesque  architecture.  The  county  prison  is  of  stone,  and 
cost  $200,000.  On  the  hill  N.  of  the  city  is  the  Memoiial  P*  Syterian 
Church,  the  finest  in  the  valley.  The  rooms  of  the  Historic^.  Society 
contain  several  cabinets  of  antiquities  and  of  geological  specimens.  A. 
broad  esplanade  fronts  on  the  river,  and  is  lined  with  costly  and  ornate 
villas,  each  of  which  stands  detached,  aiid  looks  out  over  the  riparian 
lawns  to  the  wall  of  mts.  beyond  the  plains  of  Kingston.  The  Opera- 
House  is  the  finest  in  N.  Penn ;  and  the  public  library  is  much  frequented. 
The  society  of  the  city  is  of  a  high  order,  and  is  favorably  known  for  its 
literary  culture.  The  pleasant  situation  of  Wilkes  Barre,  and  the  vicin- 
ity of  fine  scenery  and  hunting-grounds,  have  made  it  a  summer  re- 
sort of  considerable  popularity.  A  new  steamboat  makes  pleasant  daily 
trips  along  the  Susquehanna,  between  Wilkes-Barre  and  Nanticoke 
(9  M.). 

Wilkes-Barre  was  named  in  honor  of  John  Wilkes  and  Colonel  Barrd,  eminent 
Englishmen  who  defended  in  Parliament  the  rights  of  the  American  colonies.  It 
was  founded  in  1772,  but  was  burned  during  the  Pennamite  War,  and  advanced 
hut  .'ilowly  until  the  coal  development  began.  It  became  a  city  in  1871.  Anthra- 
cite coal  was  used  by  the  Yankee  settlers  before  the  Revolution,  and  the  Bed 
Ash  Mine  was  opened  in  1807.  Since  that  time  (and  especially  since  1850)  the 
production  has  been  immense.  There  are  8  companies  engaged  in  mining  about 
the  city,  with  30  breakers,  employing  12,500  men  and  boys,  and  having  a  capacity 
of  about  4,600,000  tons  yearly.  The  northern  coal-field  extends  fh>m  below  Shick- 
shinny,  through  the  Susquehanna  and  Lackawanna  valleys,  to  Carbondale,  covering 
an  area  of  77  square  M.  It  is  estimated  that  2,285,600,000  tons  underlie  this  tracC 
Ttie  rich  Wyoming  veins  average  80  ft.  in  aggregate  thickness,  and  will  yield  80,000 
tons  to  the  acre.  Horse-cars  run  from  Wilkes-Barre  to  S.  Wilkes-Barre  and  Ash- 
ley ;  also  (crossing  the  river)  to  Kingston,  the  seat  of  the  line  buildings  of  the 
Wyoming  Seminary.  The  Lackawanrta  &  Bloomsburg  R.  R.  runs  from  Kingston 
to  Scranton  (17  M.  N.  E.)  and  Northumberland  (63  M.  S.  W.). 

Many  interesting  excursions  may  be  made  from  this  point.  Prospeot 
Rook  is  2  M.  distant,  and  750  ft.  above  the  river  (the  highway  ascends 
r,he  mt.  to  within  500  ft.).  The  *view  includes  the  city  and  river,  the 
opposite  mts.,  and  a  great  part  of  the  Wyoming  Valley. 

"  There  is  a  beetling  precipice  upon  the  verge  of  the  eastern  barrier,  called 
'  Prospect  Rock,'  from  the  top  of  which  nearly  the  entire  valley  can  be  surveyed 
at  a  single  view,  forming  one  of  the  richest  and  most  beautiful  landscapes  upon 
which  the  eye  of  man  ever  rested.  Through  the  centre  of  the  valley  flows  the 
Susquehanna,  the  winding  course  of  which  can  be  traced  the  whole  distance. 
Several  green  islands  slumber  sweetly  in  its  embrace,  while  the  sight  revels 
amidst  the  garniture  of  fields  and  woodlands ;  and  to  complete  the  picture,  low 
in  the  distance  may  be  dimly  seen  the  borough  of  Wilkes-Barre,  especially  the 
spires  of  its  churches."    (Stone,  History  of  Wyoming.) 

Harvey's  Lake  {*Lake  House)  is  12  M.  N.  W.  of  Wilkes-Barre,  and 
is  a  vast  spring  of  pure  clear  water,  200  ft.  deep,  and  covering  1,285 
acres.  It  is  much  visited  for  its  boating,  fishing,  and  game  dinners,  and 
is  reached  by  a  road  which  crosses  the  W.  mt.-wall  and  affords  beautiful 
valley- views.  The  lake  is  1,000  ft.  above  the  Susquehanna,  and  is  over- 
shadowed by  the  main  range  of  the  Allegheny  Mts. 
14 


S14      R<mU46,        VALLEY  OF  WYOMING. 

The  site  of  Forty  Fort  is  4  M.  N.  of  Wilkes-Barre;  and  Jnst  beyond 
(near  the  hamlet  of  Troy)  is  a  massive  granite  monument,  62^  ft.  highj 
over  the  remains  of  those  who  were  slain  during  the  battle  and  ma8-« 
sacre.  The  road  passes  on  to  the  site  of  Wintermoot's  Fort  (1^  M.), 
near  the  pretty  Monocasy  Island.  Queen  Esther's  Rock  is  shown  near 
this  point,  and  marks  the  place  where  Queen  Esther  of  the  Senecas 
(otherwise  called  Kate  Montour ;  a  daughter  of  the  Marqu^is  de  Fron- 
tenac)  iviassacred  14  American  soldiers  with  her  own  hand.  The  Valley 
of  Wyoming  is  favorably  seen  by  driving  up  this  river-road.  It  is  20  M. 
long  by  an  average  width  of  3  M.,  and  is  bounded  by  mt. -walls,  of  which 
that  on  the  W.  is  800  ft.  high,  and  that  on  the  E.  is  1,000  ft.  high.  Th^ 
valley  is  nearly  elliptical,  and  is  traversed  by  the  Susquehanna  River  in  a 
gentle  current,  6-700  ft.  wide  and  4-20  ft.  deep.  The  river  enters  on 
the  N.  E.  through  the  rocky  defile  of  the  Lackawannock  Gap,  and  passes 
out  to  the  S.  W.  through  the  Nanticoke  Gap.  The  alluvial  plains  which 
border  this  fair  stream  are  remarkably  rich  and  productive,  and  are  under- 
laid by  thick  strata  of  anthracite  coal.  ) 

**  On  Susquehanna*!  tide,  Mr  Wyoming  f 
•  •  •  •  ■ 

....  thou  wert  onc«  the  loveliest  land  of  all 
That  sees  the  Atlantic  wave  their  morn  restore. 

"Delightful  Wyoming  I  beneath  thy  ikies 
The  Iiappy  shepherd  swains  had  nauaht  to  do 
But  feed  their  floclis  on  green  declivities. 
Or  skim  perchance  thy  lake  with  light  canoe. 
From  mom  till  evening's  sweeter  pastime  grew 

"  With  timbrel,  when  beneath  the  forests  brown 
Thy  lovely  mddens  would  the  dance  n^new ; 
And  aye  tnose  sunny  mountains  half-«  i;,  down 
Would  echo  flagelet  from  some  romantic  town. 

•  «••■'*  { 

"Whoop  after  whoop  with  wrack  tlie  ear  assailed  I 
As  if  unearthly  fiends  had  burst  their  bar. 
While  rapidly  the  marksman's  shot  prevailed ; 
And  aye,  as  if  for  death,  some  lonely  trumpet  wailed." 

(Campbell,  Gertrude  ef  Wifomingi.) 

The  Valley  of  Wyoming  was  first  occupied  by  the  Susquehannocks,  a  powerful 
and  semi-civilized  clan  of  Indians.  After  the  Leni  Lenape  nation  (Delawares) 
had  marched  fh>m  the  remote  West  and  con(][uered  the  Mississippi  Valley,  they 
advanced  to  the  Atlantic  coast  and  occupied  it  from  the  Potomac  to  the  Hudson. 
The  Susquehannocks  were  driven  from  their  homes,  and  the  Minisiuk  tribe  of 
the  Delawares  occupied  the  Valley.  These  were  succeeded  by  a  clan  of  the  Shaw- 
nees,  "that  restless  nation  of  wanderers,"  who  had  been  driven  from  Florida  and 
were  adopted  and  protected  by  the  Delawares.  They  built  a  town  near  the  present 
site  of  Kingston,  and  by  1732  had  3  -  400  warriors.  After  the  subjugation  of  the 
Delawares  by  the  confederated  Six  Nations  (of  New  York),  in  1H2,  they  were 
ordered  to  Wyoming  by  their  conquerors,  and  built  the  town  of  Maughwawame, 
near  the  present  Wilkes-Barre.  About  the  same  time  the  Nanticoke  Indians 
moved  from  the  eastern  shore  of  Maryland  into  the  lower  part  of  the  Valley,  near 
the  Nanticoke  Falls  of  the  Susquehanna.  In  1742  Count  Zinzendorf  and  another 
Moravian  missionary  came  to  the  Shawnee  town  to  establish  a  mission  ;  but  the 
natives,  suspicious  of  Euro].)ean  rapacity,  detennined  on  his  assassination.  "  The 
count  was  alone  in  his  tent,  reclining  upon  a  bundle  of  dry  weeds,  destined  for  his 
bed,  and  engaged  in  writing,  or  in  devout  meditation,  when  the  assassins  crept 
stealthily  to  the  tent  upon  their  murderous  errand.  A  blanket-curtain,  suspended 
upon  pins,  f0i.med  the  door  oi'  his  tent,  and,  by  gently  raising  a  comer  of  the 


VALLiiJY  OF  WYOMING. 


it.  >#       31 


\f  Wyoming.) 


enrtain,  the  Indians,  undiscovered,  had  a  fiall  view  of  the  venerni  "ttiiarch.  i< 
conscious  of  hirlcing  danger,  nnd  with  the  oalnineds  of  a  Haint  up4tu  i>-i  1>eiiif;i  fe 
features.  They  were  awe-stricken  ))y  his  apiiearan(;e.  Hut  UiIh  was  not  nil.  it 
was  a  (!Ool  night  in  Hcpteml)er,  and  the  count  had  kindled  a  small  tire  for  his  com- 
fort. Wanned  by  the  fliune,  a  large  rnttleHiiako  liad  crept  from  its  covert,  and, 
approaching  the  fire  for  its  greater  enjoyment,  glided  harmlessly  over  one  of  the 
legs  of  the  holy  man,  whose  thoughts,  at  the  moment,  were  not  occupied  upoa 
the  grovelling  things  of  earth.  lie  perceived  not  the  serpent ;  but  the  Indians, 
with  breathless  attention,  had  observed  the  whole  movement  of  the  poisonous 
reptile ;  and,  as  they  gazed  u])()n  tlie  aspet^t  and  attitude  of  the  count,  .... 
tiieir  enmity  was  immediately  changed  to  reverence  ;  and,  in  the  belief  that  their 
intended  victim  en.)oyed  the  snecial  protection  of  the  Great  Spirit,  they  desisted 
from  their  bloody  purpose  and  retlreid.  Thenceforward  the  count  was  regarded 
l>y  the  Indians  with  the  most  profound  veneration."  A  mission  was  established, 
which  lasted  many  years.  About  the  year  1765,  while  the  Shawnee  and  Delaware 
hunters  were  on  the  mts.,  their  wives  and  children  were  gathering  fruit  together, 
wlicn  a  quarrel  arose  between  certain  of  the  little  ones  about  tlie  possession  of  a 
large  grasshopper.  The  mothers  took  the  part  of  their  children,  and  the  war  of 
words  was  succeeded  by  a  physical  contest  In  which  several  Shawnee  women  were 
maltreated.  On  the  return  of  the  hunters  to  the  towns,  the  incensed  Sliawnees 
attacked  Maughwawarae,  and,  after  a  long  and  obstinate  battle,  were  repulsed 
with  great  slaughter.  The  Delawares  then  drove  them  from  the  Valley,  and  they 
retired  to  Ohio,  and  the  Nantlcokes  soon  moved  to  Chemung.  After  Braddock's 
defeat  tlie  Delawares  became  insurgent,  and  ravaged  the  Penn.  seHlemcnts,  until 
they  were  pacllled  by  the  Moravians  and  Sir  Wra.  Johnson  ;  and  after  tlie  great 
council  at  Easton  they  retired  to  the  Valley,  where  houses  were  built  for  them  by 
the  province.  The  Royal  Charter  of  Connecticut  (1061)  defined  the  territ«)ry  of  that 
colony  as  extending  from  Narragansett  Bay  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  and  consequently 
including  all  of  Northern  Penn.  In  1702  several  hundred  Conn,  people  moved  into 
the  Valley,  and  made  a  thriving  settlement  near  Maughwawame.  But  the  vengeful 
Iroquois,  having  murdered  Teedyuscung,  chief  of  the  Delawares,  fathered  the  crime 
upon  the  new  immigrants,  who  were  soon  furiously  assailed  by  the  grieving  tribe, 
and  forced  to  flee  from  Wyoming.  30  of  the  men  of  Conn,  were  massacred,  and 
their  desei-ted  village  was  given  to  the  flames.  The  troops  of  Penn.  then  drove 
the  Indians  from  the  district,  and  colonists  from  that  province  entered.  In  1769 
a  large  colony  came  from  Conn,  and  fortified  themselves  against  Penn.,  which 
claimed  the  territory ;  and  a  series  of  attacks  and  reprisals  began.  240  Penn. 
troops,  with  artillery,  soon  entered  the  Valley,  and,  after  a  siege,  took  the  fort, 

Slandered  the  village,  drove  off  the  stock,  and  ejected  the  New  England  men.  In 
[arch,  1770,  the  men  of  Conn,  returned  in  force,  and  captured  the  place  after  a 
siege  and  cannonade  ;  and,  7  months  later,  140  Pennsylvanlans  crossed  the  mts. 
and  fell  by  surprise  on  the  settlement.  Hundreds  of  prisonera  were  taken  thence 
to  Easton  ;  the  fort  was  carried  by  a  night-assault  in  which  several  were  killed  ; 
and  the  farm-houses  were  completely  stripped.  In  December  the  fort  was  re^ 
taken  by  Connecticut  men  and  Lancastrians,  who  evacuated  it  by  night  after  re- 
pulsing an  attack  in  which  the  Penn.  commander  was  killed.  July  6,  1771,  a 
resolute  Conn,  force  descended  ttonx  the  nits,  and  invested  Fort  Wyoming.  After 
a  six  weeks'  siege,  in  which  several  were  killed  and  wounded  on  each  side,  the 
place  was  surrendered,  and  the  Valley  was  soon  filled  with  Yankee  settlers.  It" 
was  attached  to  Litchfield  County,  and  Afras  represented  in  the  Conn.  Assembly. 
Late  in  1776,  700  Pennsylvanlans  marched  against  the  colony,  but  were  repulsed 
with  severe  loss  by  the  settlers  ambushed  in  the  defile  at  Nanticoke  Falls.  Soon 
afterwards  300  men  marched  from  the  Valley  to  the  Continental  army.  In  the 
summer  of  1778,  400  Tory  Rangers  and  Royal  Greens  and  700  Indians  (mostly 
Senecas)  advanced  against  Wyoming,  and  were  valiantly  attacked  by  Col.  Zebulon 
Butler  with  400  of  the  settlers,  —  mostly  old  men  and  striplings.  The  enemy  was 
at  first  driven  back  by  the  heroic  charges  of  the  Americans,  but  the  little  force 
was  soon  outflanked  and  enveloped  by  the  Indians,  and  a  horrible  massacre  en- 
sued. The  non-combatants  of  the  Valley  fled  to  Forty  Fort  (6^  M.  N.  of  Wilkes- 
Barre),  and  over  the  mts.  to  Stroudsburg ;  and  scores  of  women  and  children 
perished  amid  the  gloomy  defiles  and  swamps  of  "The  Shades  of  Death."  The 
survivors  of  the  battle  gathered  at  Forty  Fort,  but  that  place  was  surrendered 
next  day,  and  the  entire  Valley  was  then  swept  witii  fire  and  rapine.    Over  300 


if 


•4f 

f 
I 


^! 


316     Route  45, 


TUNKHANNOCK. 


p«raons  fell  on  this  moumftil  day,  although  '^e  carnage  ended  when  the  fort  ■or' 
rendered.  A  few  bold  eettlers  returned  aftei  the  enemy  had  departed,  and  forts 
were  erected,  but  the  savages  freauently  swept  through  the  district    Another 

great  swann  flrom  the  New  England  hive  settled  here  aoout  1780,  and  in  17S2  the 
tate  of  Penn.  took  the  forts,  disarmed  and  plundered  the  people,  and  drove  them 
into  the  wilderness,  where  many  died  of  hardship  and  exposure.  New  swarms 
fl*om  Conn,  and  fresh  levies  of  renn.  troops  l<ept  up  a  state  of  hostilities  here  for 
years,  with  sieges  and  bloodshed  and  captivities.  (These  outrages  and  dectmen'i 
were  done  by  the  State  in  the  Interest  of  the  proprietors  chartered  by  Penn  ;  '.at 
tiie  people  of  the  8tate  were  in  sympathy  with  the  Conn,  colonists.)  Jn  1799  the 
"  Pennamite  Wars  "  were  happily  ended  by  tlie  cession  of  the  17  t  /wnships  of  the 
Vnllcy  to  the  New-Englanders.  "  The  population  of  that  part  of  Penn.  is  chiefly 
rom  New  England  ;  and  for  the  last  86  years  the  Valley  of  Wyoming  has  been  as 
remaricable  for  its  tranquillity  as  for  the  preceding  50  years  it  had  been  lor  its 
turbulence." 

Beyond  Wilkes-Barre  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.  follows  the  river,  and 

passes  the  Wyoming,  Henry,  Burroughs,  and  Enterprise  collieries  on  the  r. 

On  the  1.,  across  the  river,  are  the  villages  of  Kingston,  Forty  Fort,  and 

Wyoming  (beyond  Monocasy  Island).    Passing  Plainesville,  Inkermann, 

and  the  Penn.  Coal  Co.'s  collieries,  the  tr&in  enters  the  borough  of  Fittl- 

ton,  situated  near  the  confluence  of  the  Susquehanna  and  Lackawanna 

Rivers.    With  the  adjacent  mining  villages,  Pittston  has  a  population  of 

over  16,000  (borough,  census  of  1870,  6,760  inhabitants).    Its  reason  for 

being  is  the  immense  deposit  of  coal  in  the  vicinity;  and  the  shafts, 

planes,  and  breakers  of  the  Penn.  Coal  Co.  are  seen  on  every  side. 

2,200,000  tons  is  the  yearly  product  of  this  district.    The  suburb  of  W. 

Pittston  is  pleasantly  situated  across  the  Susquehanna,  at  the  head  of  the 

Wyoming  Valley. 

At  Pittston  the  Lehigh  &  Susquehanna  R.  R,  which  has  followed  the  present 
loute  fit)m  Easton,  diveives  to  the  N.  E.  to  Scranton.  The  Lehigh  Valley  train 
passes  on  to  the  rails  of  the  Penn.  &  N.  Y.  Canal  &  R.  R.  Co.  (under  the  L.  V.  R.  R. 
management),  and  connects  at  the  L.  &  B.  Junction  with  the  Lackawanna  & 
Bloomsburg  R.  R.  (for  Northumberland  and  Scranton). 

Crossing  the  Lackawanna  River,  the  train  passes  on  by  Coxton  (opposite 
the  far-viewing  Campbell's  Ledge),  Ransom,  Falls  (pretty  cascade  seen 
from  the  cars),  McKune's  (opposite  Keelersville),  and  La  Grange,  and 
reaches  Tnnkhaxmook.  This  is  the  capital  of  Wyoming  County,  and 
has  4  churches  and  a  bank.  There  are  blue-stone  quarries  in  the  vicinity, 
and  the  village  has  a  large  trade  with  the  rural  valley-towns.  It  is 
pleasantly  situated  amid  picturesque  scenery  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Tunkhannock  Creek  and  the  Susquehanna  River,  and  I'  near  Tiiangle 
Hill,  a  lofty  spur  of  the  Tunkhannock  Mt.  A  bridge  crosses  the  river 
to  Eaton,  near  which  is  the  tall  peak  called  The  Knob. 

A  narrow-gauge  railroad  runs  ftoni  Tunkhannock.  across  the  hill-towns  of 
Lemon,  Springville,  and  Dimock,  to  Montrose*  the  capital  of  Susquehanna 
County,  27  M.  N.  It  is  a  borough  of  1,500  inhabitants,  and  is  situated  on  the 
highlands  near  the  head  of  WyalusingCreek.  Daily  stages  ruu  S.  E.  to  Montrose 
station  (Route  44).  About  10  M.  N.  W.  is  the  convent  and  college  of  St.  Joseph, 
near  Silver  Lake. 


TOWANDA. 


Route  4S.      317 


Vodntrg  is  1  M.  from  Tunkhannockf  bnt  the  line  follows  the  eiiraoeities 
of  the  river  for  6  M.  in  order  to  reach  it.  The  hills  rise  on  every  side, 
and  the  train  sweeps  around  broad  curves  and  passes  ever-chunging  com- 
binations  of  forest  and  rock  scenery.  Stations,  Meshoppen,  Black  Walnut, 
Skinner's  Eddy,  and  Laceyville,  near  each  of  which  are  lucrative  quarries 
of  blue-atone  (for  sidiewalks  and  steps).  Wyaluaing  (an  Indian  name 
said  to  signify  "the  beautiful  hunting-grounds")  is  a  pleasant  village 
near  the  fruitful  Plains  of  Wyalusing.  On  these  intervales  was  a  large 
village  of  Delaware  Indians,  holding  the  war-path  to  the  land  of  the 
Five  Nations,  "lliey  were  taught  in  a  vague  pagan  morality  by  the 
sagacious  Papunhink,  but  were  afterwards  visited  by  the  Moravian  Zeis- 
berger,  who  converted  Papunhank  and  his  followers.  The  village  was 
partially  broken  up  during  Pontiac's  War,  and  was  refounded  about  1766, 
bearing  the  name  of  Friedenshuiten  ("the  Tents  of  Peace ").  From  the 
tower  of  the  Moravian-Indian  church  sounded  the  first  bell  in  the  upper 
Susquehanna  Valley.  In  1772  the  people  of  Wyalusing  moved  to  Ohio ; 
and  their  memory  is  honored  by  a  neat  granite  obelisk,  erected  by  the 
Moravian  Historical  Society,  just  S.  of  the  village* 

Frenchtovm  is  in  the  district  which  was  inhabited  by  the  refugees  from 
Paris  during  the  Revolution  of  1793.  They  settled  upon  the  lands  of 
Robert  Morris,  and  formed  a  pleasant  village,  but  returned  to  France 
some  years  after,  leaving  a  few  of  their  number  in  occupation.  The 
Marquis  de  Noailles  was  one  of  the  leaflers  of  these  emigria,  and  other 
Royalist  officers  were  present.  Louis  Philippe,  Duke  of  Orleans,  spent 
some  time  at  Frenchtown,  and  it  is  claimed  that  the  king  and  queen  were 
to  have  joined  their  nobles  here.  "  The  Queen's  House"  was  built  in  a 
remote  and  secluded  pin  re  in  the  forest;  but  Marie  Antoinette  was  doomed 
to  die  a  terrible  death  in  Paris,  and  could  not  exchange  the  gardens  of 
Versailles  for  the  wilds  of  Susquehanna.  Stations,  Jlummerjield,  Standing 
Stone  (near  a  great  stone  which  here  stands  in  the  river,  and  was  a  land- 
mark for  the  earl>  Indians),  and  Wysauking,  a  pretty  farming  village 
whose  name  siginties  "the  Place  of  Qrapes."  Stages  nm  N.  and  K  to 
Leraysville,  Orwell,  and  Rome  (near  which  are  sulphur-springs).  The 
train  now  runs  tlirough  straight  narrows  between  high  cliifs,  and  passes 
Towanda  ( Ward  House;  Mean's  Hotel),  a  thriving  and  handsome  borough 
situated  in  a  broad  bend  of  the  Susquehanna,  and  much  visited  in  summer. 
It  is  the  capital  of  Bradford  County,  and  has  nearly  3,000  inhabitants, 
with  6  churches,  a  bank,  3  weekly  papers,  and  prosperous  manufactories. 
The  Susquehanna  Collegiate  Institute  is  a  Presbyterian  academy  situated 
on  a  hill  S.  W.  of  the  village,  and  has  about  230  students  (of  both  sexes). 
The  borough  has  a  lucrative  trade  with  the  surrounding  country  (which  is 
populated  with  descendants  of  the  New  England  immigrants  of  the  last 
century),  and  exports  large  quantities  of  poultry  and  dairy  products. 


318      Il<nUe  4S. 


ATHENS. 


The  name  Totoanda  ia  said  to  signify  "  the  Burial-Place,"  and  is  derived 
from  the  fact  that  the  Nanticoke  Indians,  who  had  moved  hither  from  the 
£.  shore  of  Maryland,  returned  to  their  ancient  domains  and  removed  the 
bones  of  their  ancestors  to  this  place.  Stages  run  from  Towanda  to  Troy, 
Orwell,  and  Canton  (26  M.);  and  the  Barclay  R.  R.  runs  S.  W.  up  the 
narrow  valley  of  Towanda  Creek  to  the  coal-mines  at  Barclay,  16  M. 
distant,  under  the  Towanda  Mts.  The  Sullivan  <fc  Erie  R.  R.  runs  S.  W. 
from  Towanda,  leaving  the  Barclay  R.  R.  7  M.  beyond  the  borough,  and 
passing  S.,  by  New  Lancaster  and  Dushore,  to  Bemice  (29  M.),  situated 
on  a  lofty  plateau  near  New  Theuringon  and  Laporte,  and  in  the  vicinity 
of  profitable  coal-mines.  These  railroads  are  chiefly  used  for  trans- 
porting bituminous  coal,  and  more  than  1,000,000  tons  passed  over  their 
lines  in  1871 -73. 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Susquehanna,  and  runs  N.  near  the  Penn.  & 
N.  Y.  Canal.  Ulster  is  in  the  ancient  Sheshequin  district,  formerly  a 
Moravian  mission-station ;  and  Milan  is  near  the  old  home  of  Queen 
Esther,  whose  "  palace"  was  destroyed  by  Sullivan's  army  in  1779.  The 
line  now  enters  a  more  open  coimtry,  and  reaches  Athens  ( Exchange  Ho- 
tel), a  prosperous  village  situated  on  the  intervales  at  the  confluence  of  the 
Susquehanna  and  Chemung  Rivers.  The  Indian  village  on  Tioga  Point 
was  known  as  Diahoga,  and  was  one  of  the  largest  in  Penn.,  being  the 
^*  South  Door"  of  the  "long  house  "of  the  Six  Nations,  and  under  the 
guard  of  the  Senecas.  Here  the  Six  Nations  located  the  Delawares  after 
their  subjugation,  and  they  remained  until  1758,  when  the  tribe  moved  to 
"Wyoming.  The  Tory-Indian  forces  rendezvoused  here  before  and  after 
the  Massacre  of  Wyoming,  and  Sullivan's  army  encamped  here  and  forti- 
fied the  point  in  1779.  Athens  was  settled  in  1783,  and  was  laid  out  and 
organized  by  Conn,  in  1786.  It  was  made  a  borough  in  1831,  and  has 
1,000  inhabitants,  with  6  churches,  2  weekly  papers,  and  a  large  trade  in 
hay,  grain,  and  butter.  N.  W.  of  Athens  is  Spanish  Hill,  a  far-viewing 
bluflf  178  ft.  high,  with  remains  of  old  fortifications.  It  is  said  that 
Spanish  coins  have  been  found  there.  The  Indians  called  it  Spanish  Hill, 
and  carefully  avoided  its  vicinity;  and  it  is  held  that  the  military  works 
were  erected  by  the  Marquis  de  Nonville  in  1688  (perhaps  by  De  Soto, 
see  page  170).  The  train  crosses  the  Chemung  River,  passes  Sayre,mi 
enters  New  York  State,  reaching  the  Erie  Railway  at  Waverly. 

Waverly  to  Buffalo  and  Niagara,  see  page  227;  to  Watkins  Glen,  see 
page  208. 


:;    ;:;i 


The  Ifhaca  &  Atluns  B.  R.  runs  N.  from  Athens  and  Sajrre  to  Ithaca  in  40  M., 
ascending  the  Cayuta  Valley  to  Van  Ettenville,  whence  it  turns  E.  to  Spencer. 
N.  Spencer  is  near  the  sulphur  and  chalybeate  waters  of  Spencer  Springs,  a 
summer  resort  with  2  hotels.  Skirting  the  rugged  highland  towns  of  Danby  and 
Newfleld,  the  train  passes  the  hills  in  whose  recesses  are  the  Buttermilk,  New- 
field,  and  Enlleld  Glens,  and  follows  the  Cayuga  Inlet  to  Ithaca  (see  page  204). 


MORAVIA. 


Route  46.      319 


2%«  Southern  Central  R.  R. 

runs  N.  fW>m  Sayre  through  Central  N.  Y.  and  by  Lake  Owasco  and  Auburn,  to 
Fairhaven,  on  Lake  Ontario,  intersecting  the  Erie,  Ithaca  &  Elmira,  N.  Y.  Cen- 
tral, and  Lake  Ontario  Shore  Railroads.    Fare  from  Sayre  to  Fairhaven,  $  3.65. 

Stations.  —  Sayre  ;  Smith boro',  9  M. ;  Tioga.  13  ;  Owego,  19 ;  Flemingville, 
23  ;  Newark,  28  ;  Berkshire,  34  ;  Richford,  38  ;  Harford,  44  ;  Dryden*  50 :  Free- 
ville,  53  ;  Groton,  58 ;  Locke,  64 ;  Moravia,  68 ;  Wyckoflf's,  7.8 ;  Auburn,  85 ; 
Weedsport,  95 ;  Cato.  103  ;  Martville,  111 ;  Sterling,  113  (Oswego,  129 ;  886  M. 
from  Phila.) ;  Fairhaven,  116. 

The  train  diverges  to  the  N.  E.  at  Sayre,  and  runs  along  the  Susque- 
hanna River,  the  track  lying  near  that  of  the  Erie  Railway  for  13  M.  At 
Owego  (see  page  227)  the  line  turns  N.  up  the  Owego  River,  and  traverses 
several  of  the  hill-towns  of  Tioga  County.  Passing  near  Dryden  Lake 
(1  M.  long;  1,500  ft.  above  the  sea)  and  the  thriving  village  of  Dryden,  the 
Ithaca  &  Cortland  R.  R.  is  intersected  at  Freemlle,  and  the  train  crosses 
the  towns  of  Groton  and  Locke.  Moravia  is  pleasantly  ^^ituated  on  the 
rich  alluvial  flats  3  M.  S.  of  the  head  of  Owasco  Lake,  and  is  surrounded 
by  picturesqiie  hill-scenery.  A  pleasant  road  leads  10  M.  N.  E.  across 
the  town  of  Sempronius  to  the  sequestered  Glen  fiaven  Water  Cure,  at 
the  heail  of  Skaneateles  Lake  (see  page  200);  and  the  beautiful  hamlet  of 
Aurora  is  about  16  M.  W.,  on  Cayuga  Lake.  At  Owasco  Valley  the  train 
reaches  Owasoo  Lake  (see  page  201),  whose  W.  shore  is  now  followed  for 
10  M.,  affording  pleasant  views  of  the  narrow  and  tranquil  waters.  The 
Old  Road  of  the  N.  Y.  Central  is  crossed  at  Auburn  (see  page  200),  and 
the  N''W  Road  is  met  at  Weedsport  (see  page  170),  10  M.  N.  The  train 
next  traverses  the  towns  of  Cato  and  Ira  (adjoining  Conquest  and  Victory) 
intersects  the  Lake  Ontario  Shore  R.  R.  at  'Sterling,  and  reaches  its  ter- 
minus at  Fairhaven,  a  port  on  Little  Sodus  Bay,  one  of  the  best  harbors 
on  Lake  Ontario. 

46.  Philadelphia  to  Saratoga  and  Montreal   Sharon 
Springs  and  Otsego  Lake. 

By  the  N.  Penn.,  Lehigh  &  Susquehanna,  and  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Co.'s. 
Railroads.  The  districts  which  are  traversed  by  these  connecting  lines  are  ftill 
of  interest,  and  drawing-room  cars  reduce  the  hardships  of  travelling  to  a  mini- 
mum. The  distance  from  Phila.  to  Saratoga  by  this  route  is  somewhat  longer 
than  by  way  of  New  York  (Routes  37  or  39,  8,  and  10),  but  many  travellers  prefer 
it  on  account  of  the  variety  of  the  hill-scenery.  The  Saratoga  route  nearly  coin- 
cides for  125  M.  with  the  Lehigh  Valley  route  to  Central  New  York  (using  also  with 
that  line  the  N.  Penn.  R.  R.  to  Bethlehem) ;  and  as  the  latter  is  perhaps  the  more 
important,  the  country  between  Phila.  and  Wilkes-Barre  is  described  under  its 
heading  (Route  45).  Information  relative  to  fares,  excursion-tickets,  and  con- 
noutious  may  be  obtained  in  Phila.  at  700  Chestnut  St.,  105  S.  Fifth  St.,  or  the 
N.  Penn.  station  ;  and  in  New  York  at  the  station  of  the  Central  R.  R.  of  N.  J. 
(foot  of  Liberty  St.).  Through  cars  run  fh)m  Phila.  to  Scrauton  (also  from  N.  Y. 
to  Williamsport  or  Scranton). 

Stations.  — 2^.  Penn.  B.  i2.  —  Philadelphia ;  York  Road,  7  M. ;  FortWashing- 
ington,  10  ;  Lansdale,  22  ;  Souders,  27  :  Quakertown,  38  ;  Coopersburg,  44  ;  Beth- 
lelient,  55.  Lehigh  dk  Susquehanna  R.  B,  (running  from  Easton,  11  M.  N.  E.  of 
Bethlehem).  —  Allentown,  60 ;  Catasauqua,  64  ;  Laubaoh's,  66 ;  Siegfried's  Bridge 


320     Jtoute  46.      NESQUEHONING  VALLEY. 


07 ;  TreicMer's,  71 ;  Walnutport,  76 ;  Lehi^  Gap,  78 ;  Parryville,  83 ;  Weisffport, 
86 ;  Lehighton,  86 ;  Mauch  Chunk,  89 ;  Penu  Haven  Junction,  96 ;  Rockport 
104  ;  White  Haven,  110 ;  Penobscot,  128  ;  Ashley,  186 ;  Wilkes-Barre,  189 ;  Pitts- 
ton,  148  ;  Moosic,  152 ;  Scranton,  158  ;  Green  Ridge,  160.  Del.  dk  Hudson  R.  JL 
—  Providence,  161;  Dickson,  162  ;  Olyphant,  164  ;  Peckville,  165 ;  Archbald,  169 ; 
Gibsonbuig,  172 ;  Carbondalc,  176.  Jefferson  Branch,  Erie  Railway.  —  Forest  City, 
181;  Uniondale,  187 ;  Herrick  Centre,  189;  Ararat  Summit,  194;  Thompson's, 
200 ;  Starucca,  203 ;  Nineveh  Junction,  211  (divergence  of  the  Erie  R.  R.  to  Bing- 
hamton).  Nineveh  Branch.  —  Comstock,  218 ;  Windsor,  221 ;  Ouaquaga,  224 ; 
Centre  Village,  229 ;  Nineveh,  232.  Albany  &  Susquehanna  R.  R.  (main  line).  — 
Binghamton  to  Nineveh,  28  M. ;  Afton,  237  M.  (from  Phila.) :  Bainbridge,  248 ; 
Sidney,  248:  Unadilla,  252;  Wells  Bridge,  256;  Otego,  261;  Oneonta,  269;  Col- 
liers, 276;  C.  &  S.  V.  R.  R.  Junction,  276  (branch  to  Cooperstown,  292) ;  Mary- 
land, 281:  Schenevus,  284:  Worcester,  289;  E.  Worcester,  294;  Richmondville, 
801 ;  Cobleskill,  306  (branch  to  Hyndsville,  31 1 ;  Seward,  315 ;  Sharon  Springs, 
820;  Cherry  Valley,  829);  Howe's  Cave,  312;  Central  Bridge,  818  (branch  to 
Schoharie,  319}^ ;  Middleburg,  825^) ;  Esperance,  820 ;  Quaker  Street,  324  (branch 
to  Schenectady,  889);  Duancsburg,  327;  Knowersville,  334;  Guilderland,  837; 
New  Scotland,  340;  Slingerlands,  344;  Albany,  861  (Boston,  552);  Saratoga,  389 ; 
Montreal.  628. 

The  train  leaves  the  station  on  Berks  St.,  Phila.,  and  runs  N.  over  the 
N.  Penn.  B.  B.  (Boute  45)  to  Bethlehem  (see  page  801).  At  this  point 
the  Lehigh  &  Susquehanna  B.  B.  is  intersected  (coming  from  Easton,  11 
M.  N.  E. ),  and  the  train  turns  to  the  S.  W.  up  the  valley  of  the  Lehigh, 
with  the  Lehigh  Valley  B.  B.  on  the  opposite  shore  under  the  slopes  of 
South  Mt.  Allentown  is  soon  seen,  crowning  a  symmetrical  hill  on  the 
L,  and  is  reached  from  the  station  by  crossing  the  Lehigh  Biver  and  the 
fine  viaduct  over  the  Jordan  valley  (see  page  304).  The  line  now  ascends 
the  valley  through  a  rich  mining  district,  passing  Catasauqua  (see  page 
805)  and  Hokendauqua,  and  at  LauhacK's  (opposite  Coplay)  the  slate 
region  is  entered.  Siegfried  is  opposite  Whitehall;  the  flour  and  lumber 
mills  of  Treichler  are  opposite  Bockdale ;  an^  Walnutport  is  opposite  the 
great  slate-quarries  of  Slatington  (see  page  806).  The  long  dark  ridge  of 
the  Blue  Mt.  is  now  approached,  and  the  train  traverses  the  narrow  pass 
which  is  called  the  Lehigh  Water  Gap.  The  next  important  stations  are 
Parryville,  near  valuable  paint-mines  and  iron-works;  and  Weissport, 
opposite  Lehighton,  to  which  the  train  passes  by  a  bridge  over  the  river. 
The  Big  Creek  and  Mauch  Chunk  Mts.  are  now  rapidly  approached,  and 
beyond  Packerton  (Lehigh  Valley  B.  B.  coal-depot)  the  line  traverses  a 
narrow  and  winding  gorge  and  reaches  Mauch  Chunk  (see  page  807). 
The  picturesque  church  and  village,  the  spacious  Mansion  House,  and  the 
terminal  peak  of  the  Summit  Hill  B.  B.,  are  seen  as  the  train  sweeps  on 
to  Coalport,  the  chief  coal-depot  of  this  line. 

The  Nesquehoning  Valley  Branch  diverges  from  Mauch  Chunk  and  traverses  a 
rugged  country  to  Tamanend,  18  M.  S.  W.,  showing  some  bold  and  imposing 
works  of  engineering.  The  Nesquehoning  Valley  lies  between  Broad  Mt.  (r.)  and 
Sharp  Mt.  (1.),  and  near  its  end  the  line  passes  throiigh  Broad  Mt  in  a  tunnel 
6,000  ft.  long.  Beyond  Hometown  the  wild  gorge  of  the  Liltle  Schuylkill  is 
crossed  on  a  timber  bridge  1,200  ft.  long  and  158  ft.  high  ;  and  th  >  i'-aln  passes  on 
to  Tamanend  (under  Mahanoy  Mt),  where  it  connects  wiiii  the  Catawi^sa  R.  B. 
for  WiUiamsport  (see  Route  47). 


CABBONDALE. 


Jt(yuU  46.      321 


Beyond  Coalport  the  line  ascends  through  picturesque  scenery,  and  at 
Penn  Haven  the  branch  railroads  are  seen  diverging  to  the  W.  between 
Broad  and  Spring  Mts.  The  Lehigh  Valley  B.  B.  crosses  the  present 
route  several  times,  and  the  two  lines  run  up  side  by  side  to  Whitehaven, 
whence  the  Nescopec  Branch  runs  along  the  dreary  highlands  of  the  Green 
Mt.  to  Upper  Lehigh,  8  M.  W.  Leaving  the  Lehigh  Biver  the  train  now 
strikes  across  the  Nescopec  Mt.  to  the  N.  W.  ;  passes  through  a  tunnel 
1,800  ft.  long,  and  traverses  a  wide  and  desolate  plateau.  The  two  rail- 
roads run  nearly  parallel  as  far  as  Solomon's  Gap,  passing  Penobscot 
(Fairview),  with  its  broad  prospect  down  the  Wapwallopen  Valley.  At 
Solomon's  Gap  the  L.  V.  B.  B.  begins  the  descent  of  the  mts.  by  running 
to  the  W. ;  and  the  present  route  turns  to  the  N.  £.  and  passes  Laurel 
Jtunj  i  M.  from  Prospect  Bock  (which  commands  a  superb  *view). 
Bounding  the  ridge  the  train  descends  to  the  S.  W.,  doubling  on  its  pre- 
vious course,  with  the  *  Valley  of  Wyoming  outspread  on  the  r.  The 
track  is  on  a  lofty  gallery  cut  out  from  the  side  of  the  mt.,  and  descends 
on  a  grade  of  96  ft.  to  1  M.  Beaching  the  level  of  the  Valley  the  line 
once  more  reverses  its  course  and  runs  N.  E.  through  Ashley  to  Wilkes- 
Barre,  the  metropolis  of  Wyoming  (see  page  312).  From  this  point  the 
Valley  is  followed  about  midway  between  the  Susquehanna  Biver  and  the 
W.  range  of  mts.  througli  a  region  abounding  in  coal-mines  and  enor-. 
mous  breakers.  Near  Pittston  the  lofty  cliff  of  Campbell's  Bock  is  seen, 
and  the  line  runs  up  the  Lackawanna  Valley  to  Soranton  (see  page  246). 
Crossing  the  Boaring  Brook  valley  the  great  round-houses  and  workshops 
of  Scranton  are  seen  on  the  r.,  and  the  line  is  carried  across  the  Pine 
Brook  valley  to  the  suburb  of  Oreen  Ridge,  where  connections  are  made 
with  the  Delaware  &  Hudson  Canal  Co.'s  B.  B.  Crossing  the  Lackawan- 
na Biver  and  ascending  its  valley,  between  the  Moosic  and  Lackawanna 
Mts.,  numerous  collieries  are  passed,  with  villages  which  are  inhabited 
mostly  by  foreigners  and  miners.  From  Olyphant  begins  the  ascent  of 
the  Gravity  Bailroad,  crossing  Moosic  Mt.  to  Honesdale  ;  and  beyond  the 
modem  and  populous  villages  of  Archbald  and  Gibsonburg  the  train 
reaches  Carbondale.  This  is  a  modem  city  of  6,393  inhabitants,  situated 
at  the  N.  end  of  the  anthracite-coal  district,  and  nearly  surrounded  by 
tall  ridges.  There  is  but  little  to  interest  the  traveller  in  this  vicinity, 
except  the  collieries  and  their  engineering  works.  There  are  4  large  coal- 
mines near  the  city,  with  beds  of  anthracite  20  ft.  in  thickness.  The  ex- 
tensive car-shops  of  the  D.  &  H.  B.  B.  are  located  here ;  and  in  the 
vicinity  is  the  track  of  the  Gravity  Boad,  on  which  long  trains  of  coal- 
cars  are  drawn  on  inclined  planes  to  the  top  of  Moosic  Mt.  (850  ft.)  by 
stationary  engines.  From  the  summit  they  descend  to  Honesdale,  16  M. 
distnut,  where  the  coal  is  discharged  into  the  boats  of  the  Delaware  & 
Hudson  Canal,  and  is  carried  by  that  route  to  the  Hudson  Biver.  There 
14*  U 


322     Mmite  46. 


SIDNEY  PLAINS. 


are  2  planes  between  Olyphant  and  Carbondale,  and  8  between  Carbon- 
dale  and  Honesdale;  over  which  continuous  trains  are  passing,  fx^emingly 
without  any  impelling  force.  The  empty  cars  are  sent  back  ov*.  another 
series  of  planes.  Stages  run  daily  from  Carbondale  to  Honesdale  (16  M. ). 
6  M.  N.  W.  of  the  city  is  the  mountain-loch  called  Crystal  Lake,  with  a 
summer  hotel  and  a  small  steamboat. 

The  train  now  runs  N.  on  the  Jefferson  Branch  of  the  Erie  Railway, 
crossing  the  E.  part  of  the  cold  and  mountainous  Susquehanna  County. 
The  country  is  wild,  and  in  places  assumes  an  air  of  picturesque  beauty, 
and  the  settlements  are  few  and  small.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  are 
engaged  in  the  lumber  or  tannery  business.  On  the  E.  are  the  rugged 
ridges  of  the  Moosic  Mt. ;  and  W.  of  Uniondale  is  Elk  Mt.,  the  last  of 
the  Tunkhannock  Mts.  Beyond  Herrick  the  train  ascends  the  great  spur 
of  the  Alleghenies  called  Ararat  Mt.,  and  at  Summit  station  attains  an 
altitude  of  2,500  ft.  above  the  sea  (the  highest  point  reached  by  any 
regular  railroad  E.  of  the  Rocky  Mts.).  The  scenery  is  bold  and  striking 
as  the  train  advances  to  Thornpson,  a  lumber  village  situated  in  a  lofty 
glen.  Starucca  (Moimtain  House)  is  next  passed,  and  the  train  descends, 
by  Stephensp&inty  to  the  banks  of  the  Susquehanna  River.  The  through 
train  passes  to  Nineveh,  by  the  Nineveh  Branch  (in  22  M.),  and  the  Erie 
runs  N.  W.  to  Binghamton  (see  page  226). 

Binghamton  to  Nineveh. 

The  train  leaves  the  Erie  station  at  Binghamton,  and  runs  X.  W.  through  a 
region  of  high  hills  and  singular  glenu,  passing  the  Inebriate  Asylum  on  the  r. 
Stotions,  Port  Crane,  Osborne  Hollow,  and  Tunnel,  where  a  tunnel  |  M.  long  is 
^aversed.  This  cutting  was  difficult,  because  of  the  hardness  of  the  rock ;  but 
eyposure  to  the  air  caused  it  to  crumble,  until  an  inner  arch  of  firni  stone  was 
built.  The  A.  £c  S.  and  the  Erie  Railways  at  one  time  contested  the  possession 
of  this  tunnel,  and  moved  several  thousand  men  on  the  ground.  The  so-called 
Erie  War  was  only  quelled  by  the  occupation  of  the  place  by  troops  of  the  State. 
Station,  Nineveh,  on  the  Susquehanna  River. 


Beyond  Nineveh  the  line  traverses  the  broad  intervales  of  the  river, 
which  curves  gracefully  through  farms  and  cultivated  fields.  Station, 
A/ton,  a  prosperous  village  with  a  suspension-bridge  over  the  river. 
Vallonia  Springs  {Spring  House)  is  a  highland  hamlet,  amid  picturesque 
scenery  to  the  S.,  with  stages  to  Afton.  The  waters  contain  sulphur, 
magnesia,  and  iron,  are  strongly  prophylactic,  and  are  efficient  in  cuta- 
neous diseases.  Station,  Bainbridge,  a  brisk  village  in  a  Wide  valley, 
which  is  well  cultivated  and  fertile.  Stages  run  to  Coventry,  Greene, 
Oxford,  Norwich,  Guilford,  and  Deposit.  Station,  Sidney  Plains  (Dela- 
ware House;  Bartlett  House),  where  settlements  were  formed  in  1772, 
and  destroyed  in  1777  by  the  Indians.  It  was  founded  Ity  Rev.  Wm. 
Johnson,  and  was  named  for  Admiral  Sir  Sidney  Smith.  The  highway 
to  Catskill  was  built  by  the  State  in  1790.    The  Midland  Railroad 


COOPERSTOWN. 


JR(mU40.      323 


(Route  32)  crosses  the  present  route  at  this  point.  Station,  UnadiUa 
(Unadilla  House),  a  thriving  village  from  which  stages  run  to  Walton, 
Butternuts,  Cannonsville,  and  Delhi.  The  train  crosses  the  Susquehanna 
twice,  and  stops  at  Otego  (Otego  House),  whence  stages  run  to  Franklin, 
Walton,  and  Delhi.  Station,  On^&nta  (Grand  Central  Hotel ;  Susque- 
hanna House),  a  factory  village  with  stage-routes  to  Morris,  Laurens, 
and  Delhi  Colliers  (Goodyear  House)  is  at  the  confluence  of  Schenevus 
Creek  and  the  Susquehanna.  1  M.  beyond  (75  M.  from  Albany;  67  M. 
from  Binghamton  is  the  C.  &  S.  V.  R.  R.  Junction,  whence  trains  run 
to  Cooperstown  in  1  hr.  (16  M.  N,). 

Cooperstown  (*  Cooper  House,  $4  a  day,  $16-25  a  week;  Fenimore 
House  ;  Central  Hotise)  is  situated  at  the  foot  of  Otsego  Lake,  where  the 
Susquehanna  River  flows  forth.  It  is  surrounded  by  hills,  and  from  the 
beauty  of  the  scenery  and  the  purity  of  the  highland  air  it  has  become  a 
favorite  summer  resort.  Besides  the  large  hotels,  there  are  many  fine 
mansions  in  the  village,  and  the  resident  society  is  of  a  high  order.  The 
Cooper  House  is  1,100  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  from  its  vicinity  Otsego  Lake  • 
is  overlooked  and  the  rolling  hills  on  either  side.  A  broad  view  is  gained 
from  the  lofty  Observatory  Hill.  This  place  was  occupied  by  Clinton's 
army  in  1779,  when  a  dam  was  erected  at  the  outlet  in  order  to  allow  the 
boat-expedition  to  pass  down  the  river.  In  1786  Judge  Wm.  Cooper 
came  here  with  his  family,  and  made  the  fii*st  settlement.  Cooperstown 
is  the  capital  of  Otsego  County,  and  has  nearly  2,000  inhabitants,  with  6  • 
churches  and  4  banks.  It  has  been  visited  by  Washington,  Talleyrand, 
and  other  eminent  men. 

James  Fenimore  Cooper  was  bom  at  Burlington,  N.  J.,  in  1789,  studied  at 
Tale,  and  served  in  tlU'  U.  S.  Navy  6  years  (1806-11).  Between  1821  and  1833 
he  wrote  many  novels,  depicting  scenes  of  naval  adventure  ("  WiuK  and  Wine  " 
"The  Pilot,"  "The  Water  Witch,"  etc.)  and  episodes  in  early  N.  Y.  history  and 
Indian  life  ("  The  Pioneer,"  "  The  Deerslayer,"  etc.).  He  also  wrote  works  on 
foreign  travel,  and  several  naval  histories.  He  lived  at  Cooperstown,  whose 
vicinity  has  been  made  classic  by  his  eloquent  descriptions.  "  Here  he  pa.  .ed 
his  childhood,  with  the  vast  forests  around  him,  stretching  up  the  mts.  that 
overlook  the  lake  and  far  beyond,  in  a  region  where  the  Indian  yet  roamed  and 
the  white  hunter  ....  sought  his  game ;  a  region  in  which  the  bear  and  the 
wolf  were  yet  hunted,  and  the  panther,  more  formidable  than  either,  lurked  in 
the  thickets,  and  tales  of  wanderings  in  the  wilderness  aiid  encounters  with 
these  fierce  animals  beguiled  the  length  of  the  winter  nights."  In  his  later 
year?  Mr.  Cooper  retired  to  his  estate  in  Cooperstown,  and  here  he  died  in  1851. 

"  The  enduring  monuments  of  Fenimore  Cooper  are  his  works.  While  the  love 
of  country  continues  to  prevail,  his  memory  will  exist  in  the  hearts  of  the 
people."  (D.  Webster.)  "  The  works  of  our  great  national  novelist  have 
adorned  and  purified  our  literature."  (Evereit.)  "  Cooper  emphatically  be- 
longs to  the  nation.  He  has  left  a  space  in  our  literature  which  cannot  easily 
be  supplied."  (Irving.)  "The  creations  of  his  genius  shall  survive  through 
centuries  to  come,  and  only  perish  with  our  language."  (Bryant.)  "  We  accord 
to  Cooper  an  equal  degree  of  talent  and  power  with  that  ascribed  to  Scott,  and 
would  place  the  originality  of  the  American  author  at  a  higher  point.  There  is 
certainly  in  Cooper  more  power  of  concentration,  a  more  epigrammatic  style,  and 
greater  terseness  of  expression."    (Eclectiv  Rwiew.) 


I 


324     Jtaute  46. 


COOPERSTOWN. 


The  Tomb  of  Cooper  is  near  thd  front  of  Christ  Chnrch  (in  which  are 
hrilliant  memorial  windows),  and  is  a  plain  horizontal  slab  inscribed  with 
his  name.  "  Let  Cooper  sleep  with  his  kindred  in  the  old  churchyard, 
needing  no  scolptured  monument  to  mark  the  pathway  to  his  grave, 
deeply  worn  by  hundreds  of  pilgrim  feet  year  after  year."  Near  the  foot 
of  the  main  street  is  the  site  of  the  old  Cooper  mansion,  Otsego  Uallf 
which  was  burnt  in  1854.  Lakewood  Cemetery  is  1  M.  distant  (£.  side 
of  the  lake),  and  contains  the  Cooper  monument  (by  Launitz;  of  Italian 
marble;  25  ft.  high),  which  is  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  the  legendary 
hunter  Leatherstocking,  ''  a  man  who  had  the  simplicity  of  a  woodsman, 
the  heroism  of  a  savage,  the  faith  of  a  Christian,  and  the  feeling  of  a  poet." 

"  But  dearer  than  all,  in  his  gentle  simplicity,  honest-hearted  Natty,  the  greatest 
creation  of  Cooper's  pen,  haunts  the  lake  and  woods  around,  hunting  the  deer 
with  dog  and  gun,  the  kindliest  spirit  of  the  band.  Sometimes,  as  the  Deer- 
slayer,  he  is  seen  near  the  Fairy  Spring,  his  grave,  youthful  face  unmoved  by  the 
beauty  of  Judith  Hutter,  that  alluring  Lady  of  the  Lake  whose  dark  eyes  fasci« 
nate  us  even  ttova  the  written  page,  and  make  us  wonder  at  the  severity  of  this 
forest  Galahad.  Then,  as  Leatherstocking,  the  mighty  hunter,  advanced  in  years, 
but  honest-hearted  still,  he  is  sometimes  visible,  coming  down  from  the  cave  that 
bears  his  name,  gliding  in  his  canoe  across  Blackbird  Bay,  or  crossing  the  Vision 
in  haste  to  rescue  from  the  panther's  cruel  claws  the  fair  form  of  Elizabeth 

Temple The  old  trapper,  with  his  white  hairs  and  trembling  steps,  has 

returned  to  the  Haunted  Lake,  and  at  early  dawn  his  bowed  figure  appears  at 
rare  intervals  standing  on  Otsego  Rock,  shading  his  eyes  from  the  burning  sun. 
and  gazing  over  the  Glimmerglass,  the  scene  of  his  youthftQ  exploits,  with  earnest 
interest.    Dear  old  Natty,  —  faithful,  kindly  wraith  1 " 

Harmah*8  HiU  (named  for  Cooper's  daughter)  is  about  1^  M.  from  the 
village  (W.  shore),  and  commands  a  view  of  which  the  great  novelist 
says,  "  I  have  seldom  looked  upon  a  more  bewitching  scene.  The  lakes 
of  Cumberland  will  scarce  compete  with  this."  Mt.  Vision  is  nearly  2 
M.  from  the  village  (E.  shore),  and  overlooks  the  lake  and  its  diversified 
shores.  ?rhe  best  view  is  obtained  from  the  arbor  on  Prospect  Bock,  al- 
though the  summit  of  the  mt.  commands  the  rugged  Black  Hills  in  the 
S.  Leatherstocking' s  Cave  is  1^  M.  from  the  village  (E.  shore),  and  the 
Leatherstocking  Palls  are  on  the  same  side,  at  the  head  of  a  ravine  near 
the  lake  (frequently  visited  by  boat).  These  falls  are  also  called  the 
Panther's  Leap,  in  allusion  to  an  old  tradition.  The  Council  Rock  is  near 
the  outlet,  a  few  rods  from  the  shore,  and  is  a  round-topped  bowlder 
about  4  ft.  high.  "At  a  small  round  rock  near  the  foot  of  the  lake, 
where  ....  the  tribes  are  given  to  resorting  to  make  their  treaties  and 
bury  their  hatchets.  This  rock  have  I  often  heard  the  Delawares  men- 
tion." The  Mohegan  Glen  is  3  M.  distant  (near  Wild  Rose  Point),  and 
contains  several  small  cascades.  Among  the  usual  drives  are  Hartwick 
Seminary  and  Lakes  (5  M.),  Bear  Cliff  Falls  (3  M.),  the  Beaver  Meadow 
(7  M.),  and  the  Westford  and  Pierstown  Hills.  Rum  UiU^  7  M.  distant, 
commands  a  prospect  of  over  60  M.  Highways  lead  to  Cherry  Valley  (13 
M. ),  Bichfieid  Sprmgs  (12  - 15  M.),  and  Sharon  Springs  (20  M.). 


OTSEQO  LAKE. 


MouU  46,      325 


Otsego  Lake. 

**  O  Hannted  Lake,  from  out  whnae  ailrer  fonntaliu 
The  mighty  Susquehannit  takes  it<  riie  , 
O  Haunted  Lake,  among  the  pine-clad  mountaina, 
Fo  'ever  imiling  upward  to  toe  akies,  — 

**  A  mi  jter'i  hand  hath  painted  all  thy  beauties  t 
A  I  luster's  mind  hath  peopled  all  thy  shore 
'Witi!  wraiths  of  mighty  hunters  and  fair  maidens, 
III  nting  thy  forest-glades  forevermore." 

"  The  magic  of  his  genius  lingers  around  the  lake  he  so  lovingly  described.  Its 
points  and  bays  are  haunted,  and  its  t'orei^ts  ai'e  peopled  with  wraitha  and  shades. 
A  listener  under  the  trees  on  a  dreamy  Hummer  day  will  hear  the  low,  musical 
laugh  of  Wah-ta-wah,  the  gentle  Indian  mii.iden,  and  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  young 
chieftain,  her  lover,  in  the  distance  through  the  forest  arches.  Sometimes,  at 
dusk,  the  camp-iires  of  the  Iroquois  gleam  from  the  gravelly  points  of  the  £.  shore : 
and  off  Hyde  Bay,  where  the  rushes  wave  on  the  shoal,  the  dim  outline  of  Muskrat 
Castle  can  still  be  traced  ;  and  the  faint  strains  of  an  old-time  hymn  are  heard 
strangely  sweet  over  the  water,  — the  even-song  of  innocent  Hetty  at  her  mother's 
grave.  On  a  moonlight  night  the  solitary  oarsman  is  startled  by  the  flapping  of 
unseen  canvas  ;  and  silently  appearing  from  the  realms  of  nowhere,  tlie  ark  glides 
slowly  into  view,  old  Hutter  at  the  helm,  and  the  gigantic  form  of  Harry  Hurry 
lounging  in  the  doorway." 

"  A  broad  sheet  of  water,  so  placid  and  limpid  that  it  resembled  a  bed  of  the 

{mre  mt.  atmosphere  compressed  into  a  setting  of  hills  and  woods Nothing 
3  wanted  but  ruined  castles  and  recollections  to  raise  it  to  the  level  of  the 
scenery  of  the  Rhine."  (C6oper.)  "  Away  W.  stretched  the  calm  plane  of  the 
Otsego,  narrow  like  a  river  ;  .  .  .  .  beautiful,  uncommonly  beautiful  mt.  shores 
shutting  it  in,  and  the  slopes  on  the  far  side  charmingly  pictured  with  cultiva- 
tion. A  lake's  mirror  was  never  set  in  a  prettier  encadrement  by  theflrame-making 
eddies  of  the  retiring  deluge,  and  ....  its  entire  regilding  by  the  sunsets  is 
visible  from  every  quarter  of  the  town.  The  path  of  the  eye  from  Cooperstown  is 
up  a  9  M.  reach  of  wooded  water."    (N.  P.  Willis.) 

Otsego  Lake  is  9  M.  long  by  1  - 1^  M.  wide,  and  is  bounded  by  lofty 
hill  ranges,  reaching  to  the  height  of  4-600  ft.  on  the  E.  shore.  The 
steamboats  Pioneer  and  Satty  Bunippo  make  several  trips  daily,  con- 
necting, at  the  head  of  the  lake,  with  stages  for  Cherry  Valley  and  Kich< 
field  Springs  (7  M.  ;  see  page  247).  As  the  boat  moves  out,  Hannah's 
Hill  is  seen  on  the  W.  (1.),  and  Mt.  Vision  on  the  r.,  along  whose  base  are 
the  estates  o'  Lakelands  and  Bowers,  the  Lakewood  Cemetery  and  monu- 
ment, and  the  picturesque  Chalet,  where  Cooper  spent  his  later  years. 
Here  is  the  landing  for  Leatherstocking's  Cave,  and  above  (2  M.  from 
Cooperstown)  is  Point  Judith.  On  the  W.  shore  are  seen  Blackbird  Bay, 
the  estate  of  the  late  Judge  Nelson,  of  the  U.  S.  Supreme  Court,  and  the 
groves  on  Brookwood  Point  (2  M.).  Wild  Rose  (or  3  M.)  Point  is  on  the 
W.,  and  is  a  resort  for  boat-parties  {Thayer's  Hotel).  TuuiclifTs  (P  M.) 
Point  is  now  seen  with  its  summer  hotel,  nearly  opposite  the  Dugway,  or 
Beer  Brook.  Mt.  Wellington^  or  the  Sleeping  Lion  (so  called  from  its 
form),  is  now  seen  looming  in  advance.  This  hill  is  often  ascended  by 
tourists  for  its  broad  off-look.  Passing  Gravelly  Point  (E. ;  6  M. )  and  the 
site  of  Muskrat  Castle  ( W. ;  7^  M. ),  the  steamer  soon  reaches  the  head  of 
the  lake. 

The  village  of  Springfield  is  1  M.  distant,  and  a  pleasant  road  leads 


326     RouU  46, 


SHARON  SPRINGS. 


across  the  town  of  WarrOi:,  by  the  Twin  Lakes  (called  by  the  Indians, 
Waiontlui)  to  Biohfleld  Springs  (see  page  247). 


Beyond  Colliers  the  line  leaves  the  Susquehanna  and  enters  the  narrow 
Schenevus  Valley,  remarkable  for  its  ancient  river-terraces.  Stations, 
Mainland,  Scheiiemu  (stages  to  Davenport  and  Bloomville,  in  the  Char- 
lotte  Valley),  and  Worcester  (Knapp's  Hotel),  a  busy  village  among  the 
hills.  E.  Worcester  and  Richmondville  are  now  passed,  and  the  water- 
shed between  the  Mohawk  and  Susquehanna  is  OTOssed.  Cobleikill 
{Bhdget  H(mse  ;  National  Hotel)  is  a  prosperous  hamlet,  900  ft.  above 
the  sea,  with  several  factories.  Fort  du  Bois  was  built  here  during  the 
Revolution,  and  an  American  force  was  defeated  (in  1778)  by  Mohawks 
under  the  chieftain  Brant,  with  serious  loss. 

A  branch  railroad  runs  N.  from  Cobleskill  by  Sharon  Springs  to' Cherry 
Valley  (23  M.).  ascending  the  Westkill  Valley  and  passing  the  stations  of 
Hyudsville  and  Seward,  in  the  hilly  uplands  of  Schoharia  County.  This 
region  was  settled,  about  the  middle  of  the  last  century,  by  frugal  and 
industrious  Palatinate  Germans. 

Sharon  Springi. 

Hotels*— -* Pavilion,  on  the  hill  over  the  village,  $4.60  a  day  (600  guests); 
*  Congress  Hall  (400  guests)  and  *  Union  Hall  (300  guests),  at  the  Springs.  The 
two  latter  have  a  German  cuisine  and  patronage,  and  chai^ge  $i&  day (|  25  a  week). 
Mansion  House,  new  in  1873,  75  guests,  $14  a  week;  United  States  (150  guests); 
Sharon  ^  American ;  Howland ;  and  several  summer  boarding-houses.  At  Bode- 
vitk,  ^  M.fVom  the  Springs,  are  2  large  and  inexpensive  hotels  ($10-15  a  week; 
free  carriage  to  the  Springs). 

Railroad  to  Albany  in  59  M. ;  New  York,  201 M. ;  Philadelphia, '320  M. ;  Cherry 
Valley,  a  M.  Stages  run  daily  to  Palatine  Bridge,  on  the  N.  Y.  Central  R.  R.  (9 
M.  N. ;  fare,  $1.50>    Stages  await  the  arrival  of  all  trains  at  the  Springs  station. 

Sharon  Sprinos  is  situated  in  a  narrow  upland  valley  surrounded  by 
high  hills,  about  1  M.  from  the  railroad.  It  is  the  favorite  summer  re- 
sort Df  the  German  citizens  of  the  Republic,  and  has  been  called  'Uhe 
Baden  Baden  of  America."  In  1781  a  sharp  action  occurred  2  M.  E.  of 
the  Springs  between  300  Tories  and  Indians  (encumbered  with  plunder 
and  prisoners)  and  an  American  force  under  Col.  Willett,  in  which  the 
former  were  routed  with  severe  loss.  The  town  wasi  named  after  Sharon, 
Conn.,  and  the  Springs  village  was  incorporated  in  1872.  The  springs 
are  situated  near  the  base  of  a  high  wooded  bluff  W.  of  the  village,  and 
flow  into  a  small  stream  below,  depositing  a  crust  of  white  and  flocculent 
sulphur.  There  are  4  mineral  spiings,  —  chalybeate,  magnesia,  white 
sulphur,  and  blue  sulphur,  —  and  a  copious  fountain  of  pure  water  opens 
above.  Below  Congress  Hall,  Brimstone  Brook  is  crossed  by  an  orna- 
mental rustic  bridge  which  leads  into  Congress  Park,  which  is  laid  out 
in  walks  among  the  trees  on  the  hillside.  Near  the  centre  of  the  Park  is  a 
graceful  domed  canopy,  supported  by  18  fluted  Corinthian  columns  of  iron, 


CHERRY  VALLEY. 


JtauU  46.      327 


over  the  Magnena  Spring  (in  each  gallon,  31  grains  of  bi-carbonate  of 
magnesia,  23  of  sulphate  of  magnesia,  76  of  sulphate  of  lime,  and  3^  cubic 
inches  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen).  A  short  distance  beyond  is  the  O^rd- 
ner  Magnesia  Spring  (in  each  gallon,  20  grains  of  sulphate  of  magnesia, 
94  of  sulphate  of  lime,  etc.).  The  White  Sulphur  Spring  contains  in 
each  gallon,  85  grains  of  6  .x^hate  of  lime,  34  of  sulphate  of  magnesia,  24 
of  bi-carbonate  of  magnesia,  and  21  cubic  inches  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen. 
The  waters  are  free  to  those  who  wish  to  drink,  and  the  Magnesia  Spring 
is  a  valuable  remedial  agent;  but  the  specialty  of  the  place  is  its  sulphur- 
baths,  for  which  there  are  large  bath-houses  at  and  below  Congress  Hall 
(160  in  number ;  40c.  a  bath).  The  usual  hour  for  bathing  is  between  11 
and  12  a.  m.  The  waters  are  held  to  be  efficacious  in  diseases  of  the 
blood,  skin,  and  liver,  and  in  rheumatic  and  neuralgic  affections.  Since 
the  year  1830,  when  these  springs  became  known  beyond  the  town,  the 
number  of  visitors  has  steadily  increased,  until  it  now  amounts  to  over 
10,%0  a  year.  Below  the  Swiss  cottage  at  the  N.  end  of  the  Park  are 
the  houses  where  the  singul  i,r  Pine  Needle  baths  are  given.  They  are 
tonic  in  effect,  and  are  used  for  neiTous  and  pulmonary  complaints,  par- 
alysis, scrofula,  and  neuralgia.  Tliey  are  prepared  by  adding  to  the  mag- 
nesia  water  a  portion  of  the  extract  of  pine  (from  the  German  Black 
Forest),  and  their  effect  is  t^eeable.  The  administration  of  mud-baths 
(for  rheumatics)  was  commenced  in  1873.  The  patient  is  covered  to  the 
chin  with  mud  impregnated  with  sulphur  and  heated  to  about  110  de- 
grees. 

In  this  vicinity  are  grottos  in  which  are  found  stalactites  and  beautiful 
crystals  of  sulphate  of  lime.  From  the  hill  on  which  the  PavUion  is  situ- 
ated is  obtained  an  extensive  *  view,  embracing  the  broad  and  populous 
Mohawk  Valley,  with  the  Adirondacks  beyond  and  the  Green  Mts.  in  the 
remote  distance.  A  favorite  drive  is  that  to  Project  Hill  (3  M.),  from 
which  another  and  yet  broader  prospect  is  gained.  Visitors  also  drive  to 
Cherry  Valley  (7-8  M.)  and  N.  to  Palatine  Bridge  (9  M.). 

Cherry  Valley  {Park  Hotels  open  in  summer  only;  Palmer  House)  is 
9  M.  from  Sharon  by  R.  R,  and  Js  favorably  situated  at  the  head  of  the 
Valley.  It  has  become  a  summer  resort  by  reason  of  its  romantic  scen- 
ery and  pure  air,  and  is  famed  for  its  cultivated  society.  Just  S.  of  the 
Park  Hotel  is  the  site  of  the  old  fort  and  the  grave  of  the  massacred  vil- 
lagers. A  monument  has  been  erected  to  their  memory.  About  2  M.  N. 
are  the  Tekaharaiioa  Falls,  where  a  brook  from  the  hills  falls  160  ft.  Mt. 
Independence  is  S.  E.  of  the  centre  of  the  tov/n,  and  rises  1,000  ft.  above 
the  plateau  and  2,000  ft.  above  the  sea.  Along  the  N.  W.  is  a  line  of 
rugged  highlands,  near  which  is  a  cluster  of  salt  springs.  The  Cherry 
Valley  White  Sulphur  Springs  (Grand  Hotel,  $  3  a  day,  $  14  -  20  a  week) 
are  1^  M.  from  the  village,  and  resemble  the  waters  of  Teplitz,  in  Hun- 


V 


328     HouU  46. 


HOWE'S  CAVE. 


gary.  They  are  surrounded  by  ornamental  grounds,  and  there  are  also 
chalybeate  and  magnesia  springs  near  by.  It  is  6  M.  thence  to  Sharon 
Springs,  12  M.  to  Richfield,  and  4  M.  to  Otsego  Lake  (see  page  325).  Stages 
run  from  Cherry  Valley  to  Fort  Plain,  Cooperstown,  and  Milford ;  and  a 
railroad  is  to  be  built  t^  Richfield  Springs,  16  M.  W. 


*Howe*i  OftTe  (Cave  House)  is  6  M.  beyond  Cobleskill,  on  the  main 
line.  It  is  also  called  the  Otsgaragee  Cavern,  and  was  discovered  by 
Lester  Howe  in  1842.  It  is  claimed  that  he  penetrated  to  the  distance 
of  11  M.,  but  the  usual  route  of  visitors  only  extends  for  3^  M.  from  the 
entrance.  During  the  summer  the  cave  is  frequently  lighted  with  gas  as 
far  as  the  lake.  Guides  accompany  visitors,  each  of  whom  pays  $1.50. 
The  temperature  is  60°,  and  the  air  is  pure  and  dry,  benefiting  lung  com- 
plaints. Many  thousand  visitors  enter  the  cave  every  year,  and  it  is  only 
excelled  by  the  Mammoth  Cave  of  Kentucky.  The  entrance  is  50  ft. 
above  the  valley,  and  the  rock  chambers  known  as  the  Reception  Room, 
Washington  Hall,  the  Bridal  Chamber,  and  the  Chapel  are  traversed  in 
succession.  The  Harlequin  Tunnel  is  then  passed  through,  beyond  which 
are  the  Cataract  Hall,  Qhost  Room,  and  Musip  Hall.  The  Stpgian  Lake 
is  30  X  20  ft.  (10  ft.  deep),  and  is 'illuminated  with  fantastic  effect  by  a 
cluster  of  gas-jets.  Lai^e  stalagmites  are  found  above  and  below  the 
lake,  and  the  passage  has  been  cut  out  at  much  expense.  Crossing  the 
lake  to  Plymouth  Rock  in  a  small  boat,  the  path  follows  a  small  brook, 
and  traverses  the  chambers  and  passages  known  as  the  Devil's  Gateway, 
Museum,  Geological  Room,  Uncle  Tom's  Cabin,  Giant's  Study,  Pirate's 
Cave,  Rocky  Mts.,  and  Valley  of  Jehosaphat.  Then  the  Winding  Way 
is  followed  to  the  Rotunda^  which  is  at  present  the  limit  of  the  incursion. 
Stalactites  and  other  lingular  geological  formations  are  found  in  these 
halls  and  passages,  and  imaginative  visitors  have  named  several  of  the 
stalagmites  for  the  objects  which  they  are  thought  to  resemble. 

8  M.  from  Howe's  Cave  is  the  Central  Bridge  station  (2  inns),  whence 
the  Schoharie  Valley  R.  R.  runs  S.  to  Schoharie  (5  M.)  and  Middleburgh. 
Schoharie  ( Wood's  Hotel ;  Parrott  House)  is  the  capital  of  Schoharie 
County,  and  is  situated  in  a  fertile  valley  among  high  hills.  It  has  1,500 
inhabitants  and  3  churches.  The  town  was  settled  by  Palatinate  Germans 
in  1711,  and  in  1777  the  Lower  Fort  was  established  here.  The  stone 
church  (built  in  1772)  was  surrounded  by  a  high  stockade,  and  was  fur- 
nished with  military  supplies.  The  building  still  stands,  and  many  of 
its  stones  are  carved  with  the  names  of  the  builders.  There  are  several 
remarkable  caves  near  Schoharie.  BalPs  Cave  (4  M.  E.)  is  100  ft.  below 
the  surface,  and  is  visited  in  boats  which  are  rowed  on  a  subterranean 
stream.    Nothaway''^  C!ave  is  2  M.  S.  E.    Stages  run  from  the  village  to 


HELDERBERG  MTS. 


JtoiUe  46.      329 


Gallupville.  Middlehv/rgh  (Atchinson  House;  Freemyer's)  is  5  M.  be- 
yond Schoharie,  and  is  a  large  village  among  rugged  hills.  It  occupies 
the  site  of  the  old  Palatine  village  of  Weisersdorf,  one  of  the  7  dor/a  or 
villages  of  the  Rhenish  Germans  in  this  valley.'  The  original  owners  of 
the  land  were  the  Schoharie  clan  of  the  Six  Nations.  Several  sharp 
skirmishes  took  place  hereabouts  during  the  Revolution;  and  many  of 
the  rustics  became  Tories,  and  moved  to  Canada  at  the  close  of  the  war. 
Stages  run  from  Middlebnrgh  to  several  of  the  hamlets  among  the  Western 
Catskills  (Durham,  Prattsville,  Gilboa,  etc.),  and  to  N.  Blenheim,  which 
is  near  Utsyanthia  Lake,  a  mountain  loch  1,800  ft.  high,  where  the  Dela< 
ware  River  takes  its  rise. 

Beyond  Central  Bridge  the  main  line  passes  the  village  of  Eaperance^ 
and  reaches  Quaker  Street  station,  whence  a  branch  railroad  diverges  to 
the  N.  E.,  descends  into  the  Mohawk  Valley,  crosses  the  river  and  the  N. 
Y.  Central  R.  R.  at  Schenectady,  and  runs  to  Ballston  and  Saratoga. 
Through  passengers  for  Saratoga  take  this  route  and  avoid  the  long  detour 
to  Albany.  Tlie  road  to  Albany  now  runs  nearly  E.,  and  soon  enters  the 
valley  of  Norman's  Kill,  on  the  N.  of  the  rugged  Helderberg  Mts.  Sta- 
tions, Duanesburgh,  Euowersville,  and  Guilderland,  above  which  the 
bold  palisaded  sides  of  the  Helderberg  Mts.  rise  to  a  height  of  over  800  ft 
The  Helderbergs  ("  clear  mts.,"  from  their  broad  prospects)  attain  an  ele- 
vation of  1,200  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  are  remarkable  for  their  precipitous 
E.  slopes.  They  are  an  outlying  group  of  the  Catskill  system,  and  occupy 
all  the  W.  part  of  Albany  County.  Station,  New  Scotland,  near  Lawaon'a 
Lake,  whose  outlet  runs  f6r  ^  M.  under  ground,  through  a  cavern  abound- 
ing in  stalactites  and  populated  by  bats.  Near  this  point  are  several  sink- 
holes 5-8  ft.  wide  and  12-20  ft.  deep,  connected  by  a  roomy  cavern 
which  was  formerly  a  smuggler's  resort  and  depository.  Near  ClarkaviUe, 
a  hamlet  at  the  foot  of  the  Helderbergs,  are  2  caves,  respectively  ^  M.and 
I  M.  long.  The  line  now  descends  by  the  i<npetuons  Norman's  Kill, 
passes  the  stations  of  Slingerlands  and  Adamsville,  and  approaches  the 
Hudson  River.  The  imposing  Academy  of  the  Sacred  Heart  is  seen  on 
the  1.;  and  after  traversing  the  long  S.  suburbs,  the  train  stops  at  the 
station  in  Albany  (see  page  85). 

Albany  to  Saratoga  and  Montreal,  see  page  93. 


11  n 


r    '■ 


i 


830    n<mte  4r, 


BEADING  R.  R. 


47.    Philadelphia  to  Reading  and  Williamtport    The 

SohnylkiU  Goal-Fieldik 

By  the  Phlla.  &  Reading  R.  R,  an  important  trunlc  line  over  which  immenae 
quantitiea  of  coal  are  transported.  Numerous  branches  diverge  from  the  line  on 
either  aide,  erpecially  among  the  carboniferous  hills  of  8chuyll<ill  County.  The 
Schuylkill  River  is  followed  for  nearly  100  M.,  and  for  a  great  portion  of  the  way 
leads  through  a  rich  and  pleasant  rural  diHtrict.  Beyond  the  Germanic  county  of 
Berks,  a  hifly  and  rugged  rf«ion  is  traversed  to  the  valleys  of  the  Lackaw/inna 
and  Susauehanna  Rivers.  This  route  Ia  also  available  for  travellers  Iwrnd  to  tlio 
Penn.  oil-regions,  and  to  W.  Penn.  and  N.  Y.  (by  its  connections  with  the  Phila. 
k  Erie  R.  R.  and  the  N.  Central  R.  R.  y  Tickets  and  information  respecting  the 
iToute  may  be  obtained  in  Phila.  at  624  Chestnut  Bt,  8.  E.  comer  of  8th  and 
Chestnut  Sts.,  and  the  comer  of  9th  and  Cliestnut  Bts. ;  also  at  the  tenninal  sta* 
tion,  comer  of  13th  and  Callowhill  Bts. 

Station!.  —  Philadelphia  ;  Belmont,  8^  M.  :  W.  Falls,  5 ;  Fencoyd,  6^  ;  W. 
Manayunk  7^ :  W.  Mill  Creek,  9^  ;  W.  Spring  Mill.  12 ;  W.  Conshohocken,  18^  ; 
fiwede  Furnace,  16  ;  Bridgeport  (Norristown).  17  (Chegter  Valley  R.  R.  to  Hender- 
son, 19 :  King  of  Pmssia,  20^  ;  Oentreville,  23 ;  Gardens,  24 ;  Howellville,  2&i  ; 
Faoll  Road,  26^ ;  Cedar  Hollow,  27 ;  Mill  Lane,  80 ;  Exton,  83 ;  Oakland,  8& ; 
Downington,  88^) ;  Merion,  19 ;  Port  Kennedy,  21^  ;  Valley  Forge,  23^ ;  Perkio- 
men  Junction,  25  (PerkUmen  R.  R.  to  Doe  Run,  28}  ;  Collegeville,  81 ;  Rabn's,  82| ; 
Bchwenksville,  36  ;  Balford,  89  ;  Green  Lane,  43 ;  Welkers,  46 ;  Pennsburg,  48) ; 
Phoenixville,  27^  (Pickering  Valley  R.  R.  to  Kimberton,  8U  ;  Chester  Bprings,  36 ; 
Byers,  88^) ;  Mingo,  30} ;  Rover's  Ford,  82 ;  Limerick.  84  ;  Pottstown,  40  (Cole- 
hrookdale  R.  R.  to  Glasgow.  42  ;  Manal^wny,  44 ;  Colebrookdale,  47  ;  Bechtels- 
ville,  52 ;  Mt.  Pleasant,  58}) ;  Douglassville.  44} ;  Monocacy,  47}  ;  Birdsboro', 
49  ;  Exeter,  52  ;  Neversink,  54  ;  Reading,  58  (crossing  of  AUentown  Line,  to  New 
Tork,  128  M. :  to  Harrisburgh,  54  M.  —  ft'om  Reading) ;  Tuckerton.  63  ;  Leesport, 
W ;  Mohrsville,  68}  ;  Hamburg.  75  ;  Port  Clinton,  78  (Pottsville,  etc.,  see  page 
384) ;  DrehensTille.  83  ;  Ringgold,  88  ;  Reynold's,  98  :  Tamaqua,  98 ;  E.  Mahanoy 
Junction,  103^.  Catawiasa  KR.  —  Tamanend,  106}  ;  Quakake,  107  ;  Summit,  110  ; 
Girard,  114 ;  Mahanoy,  118}  ;  Ringtown,  123 ;  Beaver,  131 ;  McAuley,  136 ;  Main* 
Title,  188}  :  Catawissa,  145  ;  Rupert,  147  ;  Danville,  154}  ;  Moorsburg,  161 ;  Potts- 
grove,  166:  Dougal,  169;  Milton,  170;  White  Deer,  175;  Allenwood,  177  ;  Mont- 
gomery, 181} ;  Muncy,  186}  ;  Hall's,  189}  ;  Montoursville,  195 ;  Williamsport,  199. 

.  The  Norritiown  R.  R.  leaves  the  station  at  the  comet  of  9th  and  Greene  Bts., 
Phila.,  and  runs  N.  W.  through  the  city.  Just  beyond  Broad  St.  the  Connecting 
B«  R.  is  crossed  and  the  Germantown  Branch  diverges  to  the  r.,  while  the  Norris- 
town train  passes  on  to  Wissahickon  station,  near  the  Wissahickon  Creek  (see 
page  ^X  l^he  line  now  follows  the  Schuylkill  through  the  manufacturing 
suburb  of  Manayunk,  with  W.  Laurel  Hill  and  Pencoyd  on  the  opposite  shore. 
7he  river  is  kept  in  sight  until  Norristown  is  reached. 

The  Beading  train  leaves  the  tenninal  station  at  the  corner  of  Broad 
and  Callowhill  Sts.,  and  soon  passes  Fairmount  and  Lemon  Hill  and  en- 
ters Fairmount  Park.  Pleasing  views  are  afforded  of  the  great  garden  of 
Phila.,  as  the  track  passes  Fountain  Green  and  Ht.  Pleasant  and  crosses 
the  Schuylkill  on  a  neat  bridge.  Several  park-trains  are  run  d&v.  ,  stop- 
ping at  Coates  St.  (Fairmount),  Brown  St.  (Lemon  Hill),  Thompson  St. 
(Girard  Ave.  Bridge),  Mifflin  Lane,  E.  end  of  Schuylkill  Bridge,  and  Bel- 
mont (see  page  283).  The  curves  of  the  river  are  now  followed,  and  the 
coal-branch  B.  B.  is  seen  crossing  on  a  fine  viaduct.  Beyond  the  mouth 
of  the  Wissahickon  (N.  shore),  Pencoyd  is  reached,  near  the  W.  Laurel 
Hill  Cemetery.  On  the  opposite  shore  are  the  great  factories  of  Mana- 
yunk, and  thriving  hamlets  are  seen  on  either  side  as  the  train  speeds  on 


VALLEY  FORGE. 


RouUjp,      331 


into  Montgomery  County.  Coruhohocken  i»  ".  manufacturing  borough  of 
over  3,000  inhabitnntd,  with  a  branch  R.  R.  running  N.  E.  to  Orednle,  on 
the  N.  Penn.  R.  R.  From  Bridgeport  a  fine  view  is  afforded  of  Noriii- 
town  ( De  Kalb  /fotue ;  Exchange),  on  the  opposite  shore.  It  is  a 
borough  of  10,753  i.ihabitants,  with  13  churches  and  4  newspapers,  and 
contains  tlie  stately  marble  Court  House  of  Montgomery  County.  On 
the  heights  to  the  S.  are  seen  the  fine  buildings  of  2  large  academies. 
Near  the  Court  House  is  a  monument  in  honor  -  of  the  soldiers  of  the 
county  who  fell  in  the  Secession  War.  The  situation  of  Norristown  is 
very  pleasant,  and  its  streets  are  neat  and  well  built.  The  manufactures 
here  are  of  considerable  importance,  and  are  assisted  by  the  water-power 
of  the  Schuylkill  Canal.  The  town  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Swedes'  Ford,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  Isuac  Norris,  who  bought  the 
land  from  William  Penn.  It  was  owned  by  John  Bull,  an  ardent  Ameri- 
can gentleman,  in  1777;  and  the  British  army  destroyed  his  house  and 
laid  waste  the  estate. 

The  Chester  Valley  R.  R.  nms  22  M.  S.  W.  up  the  Great  Valley,  thrcugh  a  fertile 
limestone  region  abounding  in  flne  old  farms,  and  with  a  tall  nnd  wall-like  ridge 
of  mto.  on  the  r.    The  line  terminates  at  Downington,  on  the  Penn.  R.  R. 

7  M.  beyond  Bridgeport  the  Reading  train  reaches  Valley  Forge,  where, 
just  beyond  the  station  (in  the  valley  to  the  1.),  is  seen  the  ancient  farm- 
house which  was  used  as  Washington's  head-quarters  during  the  darkest 
months  of  the  Revolution. 

After  the  repulse  at  Germantown,  and  while  the  British  troops  were  comfort- 
ably quartered  in  Phila.,  Washington  led  his  brolten  array  to  Valley  Forge,  and 
on  Dec.  18,  1777,  began  the  construction  of  winter-quarters.  Here  the  famished 
and  half-oiad  Continentals  remained  for  6  months,  suffering  the  horrors  of  a 
riyormis  winter,  and  menaced  by  the  powerful  Anglo-German  army  of  20,000  men 
at  Phila.  The  American  forces  numbered  11,000  men,  and  occunied  lines  of  huts 
on  the  hills  to  the  8.  and  E.,  along  the  r.  bank  of  the  Schuylkill,  protected  by 
powerful  earthworks  whose  remains  are  still  vi.sible.  Here  Baron  Steuben  gave 
the  soldiers  that  rigid  Prussian  discipline  which  enabled  them  to  rival  the  steadi- 
ness and  flexibility  of  the  British  infantry  ;  and  here  developed  and  failed  the 
caba]  of  several  generals  designing  to  depose  Washington  from  his  command. 
Meantime  the  noble  Virginian  bore  witness  :  "  Naked  and  starving  as  they  are, 
we  cannot  enough  admire  the  incomparable  patience  and  fidelity  of  the  soldiery, 
that  they  have  not  been  ere  this  excited  by  their  sutTerings  to  a  general  mutiny 
and  desertion."  "  Valley  Forge  I  How  dear  to  the  true  worshipper  at  the  shrine 
of  Freedom  is  the  name  of  Valley  Forge  I  .  .  .  .  And  if  there  is  a  spot  on  the 
face  of  our  broad  land  whereon  Patriotism  should  delight  to  pile  its  highest  and 
most  venerated  monument,  it  should  be  in  the  bosom  of  that  little  vue  on  the 
bank  of  the  Schuylkill."    (LossiHo.) 

1  M.  beyond  Valley  Forge  is  Perkiomen  Junction,  whence  the  Perki- 
omen  R.  R.  diverges  to  the  r.,  crossing  the  Schuylkill,  and  runs  23  M. 
N.,  through  the  rural  towns  of  Montgomery  County,  to  the  hamlet  of 
Pennsburg.  The  Reading  train  passes  on  to  Fhcenizville,  whose  many 
houses  and  smoking  chimneys  are  seen  to  the  1.  This  flourishing  borough 
has  about  7,000  inhabitants,  and  is  noted  for  its  manufactures  of  irou, 
machinery,  and  cotton.*   The  Phoenix  Iron  Works  are  the  largest  in  tho 


332      Route  47. 


READING. 


Republic,  and  have  immense  rolling-mills.  At  these  works  tbe  domft  of 
the  U.  S.  Capitol  was  made.  Copper  and  iron  mines  are  found  in  this 
vicinity,  and  the  surrounding  country  is  fertile  and  prolific.  The  Picker- 
ing Valley  R.  R.  runs  thence  S.  W.  by  several  small  hamlets  of  Chester 
County,  passing  near  the  Yellow  Springs^  which  was  a  favorite  and 
fashionable  summer  resort  many  years  ago.  Beyond  Phoenixville  the 
main  line  traverses  a  tunnel  2,000  ft.  long,  cut  through  the  solid  rock, 
and  crosses  the  Schuylkill  on  a  high  bridge.  Station,  Fottatown  {Mer- 
chants' Hotel),  a  thriving  borough  of  4,125  inhabitants,  favorably  situated 
on  a  rich  river-side  plain,  and  surrounded  by  arable  hills.  The  houses 
are  mostly  on  one  long  broad  street,  which  is  adorned  with  shade-trees  ; 
and  in  the  S.  part  of  the  village  is  the  Cottage  Seminary.  To  the  W.  is 
the  old  stone  mansion  of  John  Potts,  who  founded  this  place  before  the 
Revolution.  The  Colebrookdale  R.  R.  runs  thence  14  M.  N.  to  Mt. 
Pleasant.  The  Reading  train  crosses  the  Manatawny  Creek  on  a  bridge 
1,071  ft.  long,  and  traverses  a  fertile  and  blooming  country-side.  Stations, 
Douglas,  S.  of  the  bold  Manokesy  Hill;  Birdsboro\  whence  the  Wil- 
mington &  Reading  R.  R.  runs  S.  E.  64  M.  to  Wilmington,  Del.;  and 
Exeter. 

Beading  {'"'Mansion  House,  $3  a  day;  Keystone;  American;  Mish- 
ler's;  —  all  on  Penn  Square)  is  the  capital  of  Berks  County,  and  is  finely 
situated  on  a  narrow  plain  between  the  Schuylkill  River  and  an  amphi- 
theatre of  bold  hills,  the  chief  of  which  is  Penn's  Mount.  The  height 
and  salubrity  of  the  location  and  the  picturesque  and  fniitful  environs 
have  caused  Reading  to  be  much  visited  in  summer.  It  has  38,156  in- 
habitants, with  30  churches,  4  banks,  and  3  daily  and  8  weekly  papers. 
There  are  also  14  societies  of  Masons,  8  of  Odd  Fellows,  8  of  Knights  of 
Pythias,  4  tribes  of  Red  Men,  8  council,  of  United  American  Mechanics, 
11  circles  of  the  Brotherhood  of  the  Union,  and  7  lodges  of  the  Harugari, 
a  German  order  whose  official  paper  is  published  here.  Reading  is  the 
third  city  in  Penn.  in  manufactures,  and  is  one  of  the  chief  centres  of 
the  iron-trade.  Immense  furnaces,  rolling-mills,  brass  and  steel  works, 
and  other  similar  industries  are  located  here.  The  Reading  R.  R.  shops 
employ  2,800  men,  to  whom  is  paid  $  1,200,000  yearly.  Much  of  the 
iron  used  here  is  mined  at  Penn's  Mount.  Reading  also  derives  impor- 
tanc*  from  its  central  position  in  the  rich  farming  county  of  Berks,  whose  ■ 
population  is  chiefly  of  Germanic  origin.  The  city  is  compactly  and 
neatly  built,  and  its  principal  streets  intersect  at  the  broad  plaza  called 
Penn  Square^  on  which  are  the  chief  hotels  and  stores.  On  N.  6th  St., 
beyond  the  Post-Office,  is  the  Court  Hotise,  a  large  building  with  a  portico 
sustained  by  6  columns  of  red  sandstone.  Near  this  point  is  the  antique 
Trinity  Clmrch  of  the  German  Lutherans,  with  a  spire  210  ft.  high. 
Christ  Cathedral  (Episcopal)  is  an  imposing  Gk>thic  building  of  red  sand- 


READING. 


Route  47.     333 


mean;  Mish- 


stone  (on  N.  6th  St. ),  with  a  spire  202  ft.  high.  There  is  a  large  public 
library  nea  the  City  Hall,  a  neat  building  at  the  comer  of  S.  6th  and 
Franklin  Sts.  On  N.  3d  St  is  the  German  resort  known  as  Lauer's  Park, 
and  in  the  N.  part  of  the  city  is  the  extensive  burying-ground  called  the 
Charles  Evans  Cemetery.  The  Schuylkill  River  bounds  the  city  on  the 
W.,  and  is  crossed  by  3  high  way -bridges.  The  Grand  Opera  House  and 
Mishler's  Academy  of  Music  are  capacious  halls  where  the  citizens  attend 
evening  amusements.  Penn  St.  leads  E.  from  Penn  Square  to  the  sturdy 
and  medieeval-looking  structure  of  the  County  Prison^  near  the  basins  of 
the  city  water- works,  which  are  neatly  terraced  and  surrounded  with 
flowers.  Beyond  the  prison  the  Hill  Road  ascends  Fenn's  Mount  by 
easy  grades.  If  M.  from  Penn  Square,  and  1,000  ft.  above  the  river,  is 
White  Spot,  a  favorite  resort  of  the  citizens,  commanding  a  beautiful 
view  of  Reading  and  the  long  valley,  with  the  Blue  Mts.  in  the  distance. 
The  White  House  Hotel  is  1^  M.  S.  of  the  city,  and  300  ft.  above  the 
river,  on  a  spur  of  the  Neversink  Mt.;  and  1  M.  N.  is  the  pleasant 
summer  hotel  called  Andalusia  Hall.  1^  M.  E.  of  Reading  is  a  munh- 
visited  mineral  spring.  There  are  also  pleasant  drives  among  the  hills 
of  Cumru  and  Brecknock,  to  the  S.  (passing  the  White  Hall,  Green  Tree, 
and  Sorrel  Horse  Inns);  also  to  the  N.  K,  among  the  narrow  limestone 
valleys  and  under  the  lofty  ridges  of  Alsace;  and  to  the  S.  E.,  on  the 
Morgantown  road,  toward  Welsh  Mt. 

Reading  was  laid  out  and  founded  in  1748  by  Thomas  and  Richard  Penn,  the 
proprietaries  of  the  Province.  The  Jahr-Markts  (yearly  markets)  which  were 
held  here  in  June  and  October  were  for  many  years  the  chief  festivals  of  the 
county.  The  rural  population  of  this  district  (as  well  as  that  of  the  otiier  Penn. 
counties  S.  E.  of  the  Alleghanies)  is  largely  composed  of  the  descendants  of  the 
early  German  immigrants  from  the  valleys  of  the  Rhine  and  the  Neckar,  and  the 
customs  and  architecture  of  those  ancient  lands  are  preserved  here.  They  speak 
the  dialect  called  "  Penn.  Dutch,"  which  is  the  S.  German  language,  enriched  by 
English  words  and  local  idioms.  A  few  of  tlieiii  kuow  uotliing  of  the  Engiisii 
language,  and  the  traders  who  travel  here  find  a  knowledge  of  the  Dutch  nearly 
as  iiupovtiint  as  the  English.  The  Penn.  Dutch  has  its  newspapers  and  maga- 
zines,  books  and  schools  ;  though  it  is  true  that  these  people  aro  very  indifferent 
to  literary  culture,  and  while  generally  wealthy  and  industrious,  are  ignorant  and 
unprogressive.  They  are  devoted  to  their  own  ways  and  manners,  religions,  and 
hereditary  t'-ddes,  and  but  rarely  intermarry  with  the  Americans  who  live  among 
them.  The  Penns  expressed  fears  lest  their  land  should  become  "  a  German 
province,"  but  were  unable  to  stay  the  tide  of  Teutonic  immigration  ;  and  the 
Penn.  Dutch  numbered  100,000  in  1742,  and  280,000  in  1763.  The  great  Germanic 
immigration  began  about  1708,  when  thousands  of  Palatinate  citizens  came  to 
Pennsylvania.  Many  of  these  were  sold  on  their  arrival,  to  pay  for  their  passage 
across  the  ocean,  and  were  thence  known  as  "redemptioners."  Muoli  opposition 
was  aroused  against  the  swarms  of  new-comers ;  and  the  Provincial  Secretary 
declared  that "  they  come  in  in  crowds,  and  as  bold,  indigent  strangers  from 
Germany,  where  many  of  tJiem  have  been  soldiers  ;  all  these  go  in  the  best  vacant 
tracts,  and  seize  upon  them  as  places  of  common  spoil." 

Reading  is  an  important  station  on  the  Schuylkill  Canal,  and  the  Union  Canal 
here  diverges  to  Middletown,  on  the  Susquehanna  River.  The  AUentown  Line 
^ee  Route  36)  from  New  York  to  Harrisbui-g  passes  this  point,  intersecting  the 
Phila.  &  Reading  R.  R. ;  and  the  Berks  County  R.  R.  is  built  S.  E.  to  Birdsboro'. 
Stages  run  to  Boyerto^vn,  Friedensburg,  Straustown,  and  Bernville.  The  Wil- 
niington  &  Reading  R.  B.  (Route  49)  runs  S.  E.  73  M.  to  Wilmington,  Del. ;  and 
the  Reading  js  Columbia  A.  B.  (Route  48)  runs  S.  W.  45  S(.  to  Columbia. 


534     Route  iff. 


POTTSVILLE. 


I! 


The  train  runs  N.  from  Reading,  and  soon  crosses  the  Schuylkill,  which 
is  followed  for  many  leagues.  The  Blue  Mt.  fills  all  the  foreground  with 
its  great  ridges;  and  the  borough  of  Hamburg  (1,600  inhabitants)  is 
passed  near  its  foot.  Port  Clinton  is  reached  after  traversing  a  pictur- 
esque nit.  pass,  and  here  diverges  the  Little  Schuylkill  B.  B.  (for  Tama- 
qua)  from  the  main  line  for  Auburn  and  Pottsville. 


The  Schuylkill  Jt  Swquehanna  S.  B.  runs  S.  W.  firom  Auburn.  Statlona*  — 
Auburn;  Summit,  7  M.  :  White  Horse,  12 ;  Pine  Grove,  18  ;  EUwood,  24  ;  Rausch 
Gap,  30 ;  Cold  Spring.  83 ;  Yellow  Spring,  85 ;  Battling  Bun,  88 ;  Foige,  46 ; 
Dauphin,  61 ;  BockvUle,  54  (Harrisburg  59). 

The  country  which  is  traversed  by  this  line  is  thinly  settled,  and  con- 
sists of  a  long  and  narrow  valley  between  Infty  and  continuous  mt.  chains. 
20  min.  after  leaving  Auburn  the  water-shed  is  crossed  at  Summit  station, 
and  the  line  descends  into  the  Swatara  Valley.  The  tall  ridge  of  the  Bliie 
Mt.  is  on  the  1.,  and  at  Pine  Grove  the  line  intersects  the  Lebanon  k 
Tremont  B.  B.,  which  nms  S.  W.  through  the  Swatara  Gap  to  Lebanon 
(see  page  253),  and  to  the  N.  traverses  the  defiles  of  the  Second  and  Sharp 
Mts.,  and  enters  the  coal-mining  district  abotit  Lorberry  and  Donaldson. 
Its  terminus  is  at  Brookside,  beyond  Tower  City,  whence  splendid  views 
are  et\joyed.  The  B.  &  S.  train  now  runs  S.  W.  in  the  deep  trough  be- 
tween the  Second  and  Third  Mts.,  through  a  solitary  wilderness,  with 
trackless  ridges  on  either  hand.  The  Susquehanna  Biver  is  reached  at 
DawphiUy  8  M.  N.  of  Harrisburg. 

Beyond  Aubiim  the  Pottsville  train  pa.sses  on  to  Schui/lkill  Haven^ 
whence  a  coal-branch  runs  N.  W.  13  M.,  by  Mine  Hill  Gap  to  Glen  Car- 
bon and  Glen  Dower.  Passing  to  the  N.  through  the  Sharp  Mt.,  at  Mt. 
Carbon  is  seen  the  large  summer  hotel  known  as  the  Mansion  House. 
Pottsville  {Pennsylvania  Halt,  $2.50  a  day;  Merchants'  Hotel;  Ameri- 
can) is  a  city  of  14,516  inhabitants,  with  6  banks  and  19  churches  (of 
which  4  are  German  and  3  are  Welsh).  This  place  is  the  head-quarters 
of  the  Schuylkill  coal-district,  and  is  the  abiding-place  of  the  chief  opera- 
tors in  the  mining-stocks.  It  is  also  the  seat  of  large  and  important 
manufactures,  and  owes  its  growth  to  the  development  of  50  years.  Just 
to  the  S.  is  the  gap  in  Sharp  Mt.,  and  the  city  is  picturesquely  located 
upon  and  about  the  steep  hills  near  the  Schuylkill.  The  great  Schuylkill 
coal-field  extends  to  the  N.,  E.  and  W.,  and  is  traversed  by  numerous 
railroads  which  converge  on  the  Phila.  &  Beading  B.  B.  In  each  of  the 
years  1871  -  73  there  were  over  5,000,000  tons  of  coal  shipped  from 
this  district ;  and  the  aggregate  export  since  1850  has  been  87,700,000 
tons.  Most  of  this  immense  product  is  moved  East  by  the  P.  k  B.  B.  B. 
and  the  Schuylkill  Canal ;  and  2,266,893  tons  were  shipped  from  Port 
Bichmoud  (at  Phila.)  in  1873,  of  which  1,363,303  '.ons  went  to  New 


TAMAQUA. 


Route  47,      335 


England.  In  1872  -  73  the  P.  &  R.  R.  B.  carried  over  10,000,000  tons  of 
coal  to  the  E.  Pottsville  is  the  capital  of  Schuylkill  County,  and  is  pic- 
turesquely situated  in  the  narrow  valley  between  Mine  Hill  and  Sharp  Mt. 
Several  railroads  diverge  hence  to  the  great  collieries  tc  the  N.  and  N.  E. 
'(Frackville,  St.  Clair,  Port  Carbon,  etc.),  crossing  Broad  Mt.  and  inter- 
seeling  the  system  of  tracks  which  traverse  the  defiles  below  Mahanoy 
Mt.  The  Mt.  Link  Je  Schuylkill  VaUey  R.  R.  (3  trains  daily)  run'>  N. 
K  18  M.  to  Tamaqua,  passing  several  large  collieries  and  the  important 
borough  of  Port  Carbon,  the  seat  of  the  Schuylkill  Iron  Works.  This 
line  follows  Sharp  Mt.  (on  the  r.)  up  the  narrowing  valley;  and  at  Tus- 
carora  the  Locust  Mt.  is  seen  on  the  1.,  and  is  followed  to  TamaqvM, 


At  Port  Clinton  the  through  train  passes  on  to  the  rails  of  the  Little 
Schuylkill  R.  R.,  and  traverses  a  rugged  and  uninhabited  region.  Th6 
Blue  Mt.  is  followed  (on  the  r.)  for  6  M.,  and  then  the  Second  Mt.  is  ap- 
proached on  the  1.  Beyond  Hecla  the  Wild  Cat  Mt.  loorrs  on  the  1.,  and 
the  Mauch  Chunk  Mt.  is  seen  on  the  r.  Tamaqna  {Mansion  House)  is 
an  important  borough  of  6,000  inhabitants,  with  a  lai^e  coal-trade,  and  is 
connected  by  railroad  with  Mauch  Chunk  (see  page  307).  The  tracks  of 
the  Reading  R.  R.  in  this  section  of  the  county  intersect  and  connect  with 
tLose  of  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.  (see  page  311). 

".  Catawissa  R.  R.  runs  N.  W.  from  Tamaqua,  and  is  followed  by 
\\v  'V  iliamsport  train.  At  E.  Mahanoy  Junction  the  Mt.  Link  &  S.  V.  R. 
K  is  met;  and  the  train  ascends  Locust  Mt.  on  heavy  grades  (60  ft.  to  the 
M.).  Views  are  given  of  the  Quakake  Valley,  and  beyond  the  tunnel  at 
Summit  station  (1,400  ft.  long)  the  Catawissa  ("  clear  w^ater  ")  Valley  is 
seen  for  ntany  miles.  Stages  run  from  Summit  to  Hazleton.  The  Cata- 
wissa Creek  rises  in  the  tunnel,  and  is  followed  by  the  railroad  for  30  M. 
At  Quakake  a  branch  of  the  Lehigh  Valley  R.  R.  is  intersected,  and  the 
coal-lands  given  by  Stephen  Girard  to  the  city  of  Phila.  are  traversed. 
Opposite  Girard  Manor  is  Spring  Mt. ,  the  highest  point  in  K  Penn.  Green 
Mt.  on  the  r.  and  the  N.  Mahanoy  Mt.  on  the  1.  now  attract  the  atten- 
tion ;  and  the  city  of  Mahanoy  is  4  M.  S.  of  its  station,  among  the  high- 
lands (see  page  311).  Fine  railroad-engineering  works  are  now  seen  as 
the  line  approaches  McAuley's  Mt. ;  and  at  Ringtown  the  Catawissa  is 
crossed  on  a  bridge  1,210  ft.  long  and  135  ft.  high.  The  irregular  heights 
of  Catawissa  Mt.  are  now  approached  on  the  1.,  and  the  scenery  on  the 
creek  at  Stranger  Hollow  is  highly  esteemed.  The  Nescopec  Mts.  now 
draw  near  on  the  r. ;  and  the  line  crosses  the  Long  Hollow  Bridge,  1,050 
ft.  long  and  125  ft.  high  (near  Shuman's);  Fisher's  Bridge,  755  ft.  long 
and  124  ft.  high  (beautiful  views  of  the  valley);  Mine  Gap  Bridge,  600  ft. 
long  and  103  ft.  high  ;  and  Mainville  Bridge,  700  ft.  long  and  110  ft.  high. 
Fram  this  latter  bridge  are  obtained  fine  views  of  the  quiet  hamlet  of 


!I5 

1  I 


336     Houte  48. 


EPHRATA. 


1  i" 


i  m 


MainvilUt  the  rich  valley,  the  Nescopec  Mts.,  and  the  Maioville  Water 
Gap.  CatawiSBa  {Susquehanna  House)  is  prettily  situated  at  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Catawissa  Creek  and  the  Susqiiehanna  River,  and  is  sur- 
rounded by  fine  scenery.  From  the  adjacent  bluffb  are  gained  beautiful 
views,  one  of  which  Moran  has  painted  for  an  autumnal  landscape.  The 
village  was  settled  by  the  Friends  at  an  early  date,  and  has  1,200  inhabi- 
tants, 4  churches,  several  iron-works  and  machine-shops,  and  a  lucrative 
local  trade.  At  this  point  the  Danville,  Hazleton  &  Wilkes-Barre  R.  R. 
is  intersected  ;  and  2  M.  beyond  the  Lackawanna  &  Bloomsburg  R.  R.  is 
reached.  The  Susquehanna  is  crossed  at  Catawissa;  and  from  Rupert 
station  daily  stages  nm  to  Bloomsburg  and  Orangeville.  Montour's 
Ridge  is  seen  on  the  r.,  and  the  train  passes  on  to  Danyille  (Montour 
House),  a  borough  of  8,436  inhabitants,  lai'gely  engaged  in  the  iron-manu- 
facture. The  Montour  Iron  Works  make  great  quantities  of  railroad  iron ; 
and  there  are  7  furnaces  and  5  rolling-mills  in  the  borough.^  Danville  is 
the  capital  of  Montour  County;  and  on  an  eminence  in  the  vicinity  are  the 
8i>aciou8  buildings  of  the  Pe:m.  Insane  Asylum.  S.  Danville  is  a  popu- 
lous village  across  the  Susquehanna  (N.  Branch),  and  has  the  stately 
Grove  nansion.  The  train  now  leaves  the  N.  Branch  of  the  Susquehanna, 
crosses  Montour's  Ridge  and  approaches  the  Mahanoy  Mt.  Beyond  the 
fertile  valley  of  Liberty  it  reaches  Milton,  on  the  Phila.  &  Erie  R.  R.  and 
the  Susquehanna  River. 
Milton  to  WUliamsport,  see  Route  55. 

48.  Beading  to  GolTmibi& 

By  the  Beading  &  Columbia  B.  B  in  2^  hrs.,  crossing  the  fertile  and  populous 
county  of  Lancaster. 

Stationa.  —  Beading ;  Sinking  Springs,  6  M. ;  Fritztown,  8 ;  Beinholdsville, 
12 ;  Union,  15  ;  Ephrata,  19 ;  Millway,  23  ;  Litiz,  27  :  Manheim,  32  ;  Sellers,  88  : 
Landisville,  86  ;  Bruckharts,  39  ;  Chestnut  Hill,  41  ;  Kaumnan's,  42  ;  Co- 
lumbia, 45. 

The  Columbia  train  diverges  from  the  Lebanon  Valley  line  near  the 
Heidelberg  hills,  and  passes  S.  W.  across  E.  Cocalico  to  Ephrata,  near 
which,  on  the  summit  of  the  highlands,  is  the  summer  resort  and  hotel 
at  the  Ephrata  Mt.  Springs.  In  the  village  remains  the  ancient  convent 
of  Ephrata,  with  its  quaint  and  barn-like  buildings. 

Early  in  the  last  century  a  band  of  German  Pietists  came  hither,  and  erecied 
huts  on  an  estate  of  250  acres,  where  they  lived  in  conventual  retirement  and 
discipline.  Tracing  the  history  of  their  fraternity  trova  John  the  Baptist,  and 
devoting  themselves  to  lives  of  purity  and  diligence,  the  brethren  endured  an 
austere  and  arduous  life  with  earnest  devotion.  In  the  time  of  the  Prior  Ones- 
imus  a  sisterhood  was  added  to  the  order  (under  the  Prioress  Sister  Mareella), 
and  its  operations  were  extended.  The  monastic  dress  was  the  white  robo  of  the 
Capuchin  friars,  with  cowls  and  sandals  ;  the  diet  was  solely  of  vegetables ;  and 
during  their  journeys  the  brethren  walked  in  single  file,  with  eyes  cast  down,  and 
without  speaking.  They  celebrated  the  Eucharist  at  night,  washing  each  other's 
feet ;  attended  Divine  service  4  times  daily  ;  and  covered  their  faces  with  cowls 
when  beyond  the  walls.    There  were  86  monks  in  the  Zion  cloister,  and  85  nuns 


H 


LITIZ. 


Jtoute  49.      337 


iville  Water 
at  the  con- 
and  is  sur- 
!d  beautiful 
3cape.  The 
,200  inhabi- 
I  a  lucrative 
Barre  R.  R. 
iirg  R.  R.  is 
rom  Rupert 
Montour's 
ie  (Montour 
>  iron-manu- 
lilroad  iron ; 
Danville  is 
inity  are  the 
)  is  a  popu- 
the  stately 
ii8quehanna> 
Beyond  the 
ie  R.  R.  and 


In  the  Kedar  olotster,  and  their  sweet  and  peculiar  singing  resembled  "  the  /Eolian 
liarp  harmonized."  Much  time  was  spent  in  illuminating  MSS. ;  and  a  printing- 
press  was  set  up  in  the  convent,  after  wliicli  it  became  a  great  centre  of  liglit  in 
tlie  province.  1  he  entire  fraternity  wa;t  dei>nrt«d  to  Lancaster  Jail  for  nonpayment 
of  taxes,  but  were  released,  and  gave  saintly  serviue  to  the  great  army  hospitals 
at  Ephrata  (160  Continental  soldiers  were  buried  on  Mt.  Zion).  Tlie  WeHtern 
settlers  were  all  driven  in  on  this  place  during  tlie  Revolution,  and  were  defended 
by  a  detachment  from  the  army.  The  founder  of  the  order  is  buried  under  a 
stone  which  is  inscribed  :  "  Here  rests  a  Birth  of  the  love  of  Qod,  Peaceful,  a 
ijoiitary,  but  who  afterwards  became  a  Superintendent  of  the  Solitary  Community 
of  Christ  in  and  around  Ephrata ;  bom  at  Oberbach,  in  the  Palatinate,  and  named 
Conrad  Beisael.  He  fell  asleep  the  sixth  of  July,  a.  n.  1768  ;  of  his  spiritual  life 
the  &2d.  but  of  his  natural  one,  77  years  and  4  months."  The  cloisters  stand  near 
tlie  bctiiks  of  the  Cocali(!o  River,  and  are  now  nearly  deserted ;  but  the  people  of 
Ephrata  are  of  the  same  sect,  and  are  "  remarkable  for  the  purity  of  their  lives^ 
the  simplicity  of  their  manners,  and  the  fervor  of  their  devotion."  The  quaint 
old  volume  (printed  here)  called  the  Chronicon  Ephratense  gives  their  early  history ; 
and  there  ai-e  some  ancient  illuminations  in  the  chapeL 

Beyond  Ephrata  the  train  passes  W.  (with  Black  Oak  Ridge  on  the  r.) 
to  Litis,  an  ancient  Moravian  village  with  quaint  and  cleanly  houses  and 
large  church-schools.  It  was  founded  by  Bishop  Hehl  in  1756,  and  has 
been  the  seat  of  several  councils.  There  is  said  to  be  much  resemblance 
between  this  place  and  the  Moravian  village  of  Kdnigsfeldt,  in  the 
Bavarian  Black  Forest.  In  this  vicinity  is  the  summer  hotel  at  the  Litiz 
Springs,  situated  amid  pleasant  hill-scenery.  The  train  now  crosses  the 
towns  of  Penn  and  Raplio,  with  the  long  South  Mt.  on  tho  r.  (distant). 
Turning  S.  from  the  borough  of  Manheim,  it  intersects  the  Peun  R.  R.  at 
Landisville,  crosses  the  town  of  W.  Hempfield,  and  reaches  Columbia 
(see  Route  59). 

49.  Beading  to  Wilmingtoa 

By  the  Wilmington  &  Reading  R.  R.  in  4-4^  hrs.,  descending  the  Brandywine 
Valley  ar>d  crossing  the  county  of  Chester.  Fares.  —  Reading  to  CoatesviUe,  $  1 : 
to  Wilmington,  82. 

Statlona.  —  Reading  ;  Birdsboro',  9  M. ;  White  Bear,  14  ;  Oeigertown,  17  : 
Cold  Run,  19;  Joanna,  22;  Springfield,  23;  Conestoga,  27;  Waynesburg  Junc- 
tion, 28  ;  Rockviile,  30  ;  Beaver,  31 :  Honeybrook,  32  ;  Hibemia,  36  ;  Brandy- 
wine,  37  :  Coatesville,  40 ;  Modena,  43 ;  Mortonville,  45 ;  Embreeville,  48 ;  Sager's, 
64;  Pojopson,  50;  Cliadd's  Ford,  58;  Smith's  Bridge,  62;  Centre,  64;  Dupont, 
66 .  Lancaster,  69  ;  Newport  Road,  71 ;  Wilmington,  73. 

The  train  passes  out  from  Reading  and  follows  thePhila.  &  Reading 
R.  R>  by  the  Neversink  Hills  and  along  the  placid  Schuylkill  River.  At 
Birdsboro^  it  diverges  to  the  S.,  and  crosses  the  sterile  gravel  lands  of 
Robeson  and  Union  townships.  Beyond  Geigertown  the  fruitful  Oreat 
Valley  is  entered,  and  the  line  ascends  the  Welsh  Mt.  by  easy  gradients. 
Descending  to  the  plains  of  Chester  County,  the  train  crosses  the  Waynes- 
burg Branch  of  the  Penn.  R.  R.  The  W.  Branch  of  the  Brandywine  is 
now  reached,  and  the  maiu  line  of  the  Penn.  R.  R.  is  intersected  at  the 
flourishing  borough  of  Coatesville.  The  train  now  runs  S.  E.  through  a 
fertile  and  well-cultivated  land,  and  near  the  placid  Brandywine.  From 
Sagir^H  stages  run  N.  E.  3-4  M.  to  West  Chester,  the  county-seat;  and 
15  V 


338     RouUSO, 


BRANDYWINB. 


the  State  Road  runs  6  -  7  M.  S.  W.  to  Kennett  Square.    ChadcTs  Ford  is 
4  M.  beyond  Sager's. 

The  BaUle  of  Brandytoine  was  fou^rht  Sept.  11, 1777.  Gen.  Howe  had  led  his 
anny  by  sea  from  New  York  to  attack  Phila. :  and,  landing  at  the  head  of  Chesa- 
peake Bay,  advanced  to  Kennett  Square.  Washington  held  tlie  heights  about 
Chadd's  Ford  with  9,000  Continental  troops  and  a  swarm  of  active  but  undisci- 
plined Penn.  and  Del.  militia.  The  Anglo-German  army  advanced  against  the 
American  position  at  daybreak,  and  wliile  Knvphausen's  Hessians  menaced  and 
cannonaded  the  patriot  lines.  Lord  Cornwallis  led  the  main  body  of  the  army  by  a 
rapid,  secret,  and  circuitous  march  of  17  M.,  eluded  the  putrols,  and  suddenly 
appeared  on  the  heights  over  the  American  right  rear.  Sullivan's  brigades  had 
hardly  formed  in  line  of  battle,  when  the  enemy  swept  upon  them  in  overwhelm- 
ing numbers,  and  routed  the  right  and  left  wings.  800  Continentals  stood  ilrm  in 
the  centre,  under  Sullivan,  Lafayette,  and  Stirling,  until  they  were  nearly  anni- 
hilated by  artillery.  This  was  near  the  Birmingham  Quaker  meeting-house,  now 
a  quaint  old  building  of  serpentine  stone,  in  whose  yard  many  officers  are  buried 
(an  incorrect  local  tradition  points  out  the  grave  of  the  noble  Northumbrian,  Earl 
Percy,  who  left  America  before  the  battle).  Lafayette  was  wounded,  Sullivan's 
aids  were  killed,  and  the  entire  riglit  wing  was  broken  u}i.  Greene's  Virginians 
and  Pennsylvanians  left  Chadd's  Ford,  and  double-quicked  4  M.  in  40  min. ; 
formed  in  line  1  M.  from  Birmingham  church  ;  received  tlie  broken  regiments  of 
fiigitives  ;  and  repelled  the  victorious  British  until  dark.  Meantime  the  Hessians 
had  crossed  at  Chadd's  Ford  and  routed  tlie  left  wing  under  Wnyne,  capturing 
their  camps  and  artillei-y.  Wayne's  men  took  shelter  behind  Greene's  valiant 
division,  and  during  the  night  the  Americans  fell  back  to  Cliester,,  having  lost 
1,200  men  and  11  pieces  of  artillery.  The  royal  army  lost  about  600  men,  and  soon 
afterwai-ds  entered  Phila.  in  triumph. 

Near  Chadd's  Ford  the  present  route  crosses  the  Phila.  &  Bait.  Central 
B.  R. ;  and  beyond  Smith's  Bridge  the  State  of  Delaware  is  entered. 

50.  New  Tork  and  Philadelphia  to  Harrishnrg, 
Pittsburgh,  and  the  Westy 

By  the  Pennsylvania  B.  B.,  which  forms  one  of  the  chief  routes  between  the 
Atlanti<(  coast  and  the  Western  States,  controlling  1,G00  M.  of  track.  This  line 
traverses  some  of  the  richest  agricultural  districts  of  the  State  ;  posses  through 
several  large  cities ;  and  affords  beautiful  views  of  the  scenery  of  the  Juniata 
Valley  and  the  main  chain  of  the  Allegheny  Mts.  Numerous  branch  roads  di- 
verge on  eitlier  side  ;  and  at  Pittsburgh  connections  are  made  witli  the  Ohio  sys- 
tem of  railroads.  Rapid  express-trains  run  W.  from  N.  Y.  and  Phila.,  and  are 
fUmished  with  palace  and  drawing-room  cars.  The  cars  are  lighted  by  gas  and 
heated  by  steam,  and  run  on  steel  rails  over  a  road-bed  of  limestone  20  inches 
deep.  Tlie  Pullman  cars  i-un  through  (without  change)  from  Phila.  to  Harris- 
burg  in  4  hrs. ;  to  Pittsburgh  in  lb  - 15  hrs.  ;  to  Cleveland  in  20}  hrs. ;  to  Chi- 
cago in  33  hrs.  ;  to  St.  Louis  in  44  -  46  hrs. :  to  Louisville  in  80^  hrs.  There  is 
but  one  change  of  cars  to  Omaha,  58  hrs. ;  St.  Paul,  57|  hrs. ;  Memphis,  dik  hrs. ; 
Mobile,  82  hrs. ;  and  New  Orleans,  83  hrs.  Tickets  and  information  may  be  ob- 
tained at  77  and  79  Washington  St.,  Boston  ;  271,  435,  526,  and  944  Broadway,  8 
Battery  Plane,  and  1  Astor  House,  New  York  ;  838  and  901  Chestnut  St.,  the 
comer  of  Broad  and  Cltestnut  Sts.,  and  116  Market  St.,  Phila. ;  the  corner  of  Bal- 
timore and  Calvert  Sts.,  Baltimoi-e  ;  the  corner  of  6th  St.  and  of  13th  St.  and 
Penn.  Ave.,  Washington  :  and  at  the  railroad  stations. 

The  head-quarters  of  the  road  is  at  Phila.,  and  the  actual  terminus  is  at  New 
Tork,  whence  its  swift  Cincinnati  and  Pacific  express-trains  cross  New  Jersey 
with  but  S  stops,  and  swing  around  Phila.  to  Mantua  Junction  and  W.  Phila. 
The  local  fares  are :  Phila.  to  Downington,  $  1. 13 ;  to  Lancaster,  $  2.40  :  to  Harris- 
burg,  93,69;  to  Millerstown,  $4.83;  to  Lewistown,  $5.81;  to  Huntington, 
97.10;  to  Altoona,  $  8.29 ;  to  Johnstown.  99.65;  to  Greensbuig,  911.29;  to 
Pittsburgh,  912.40. 


VILLA  NOVA. 


MouU  SO.      339 


Statloiif.--N.  T.  to  W.  Fbila.,  90  M.;  W.  Phila.  to  Manttu,  2  M.;  Heston* 
vilie,  8 :  Overbrook,  4  :  Merion,  5 ;  WynnAwood,  6 :  Haveiford  Collie,  8 ;  Bryn 
Mawr.  9 ;  Villa  Nova,  lOJ  :  Radnor,  11 ;  Wayne,  14 ;  Eagle.  16 :  Paofl,  19 ;  West 
Chester  Intersection,  21 ;  Glen  Loch,  25;  Oaldand,  28;  Downington,  32;  Oalla- 
{;herville,  34 ;  Coateavillo,  38 ;  Parkeahurg,  44 ;  Penningtonville,  47 ;  Christiana, 
4S;  Gap,  51;  Leaman  Place,  57 ;  Bird-in-Hand,  61 ;  Lancaster,  69;  DiUersville, 
70;  LandisvillCf  76;  Monnt  Joy,  80;  Elizabethtown,  87;  Branch  Intersection, 
95;  Middletown,  96;  Harrisburg,  105;  Rockville,  111;  Marysville,  113;  Dun- 
cannon,  120;  Baily's,  128;  Newport,  133;  Millerstown,  138;  Thompsontown, 
143;  Perrysville,  1»2;  Mifflin,  154;  Morrows,  161;  Lewistown,  166;  McVeytown, 
178;  Newton  Hamilton,  188;  Mount  Union,  191;  Mapleton.  194;  Mill  Creek, 
198;  Huntingdon,  203;  Petersburg,  209;  Spruce  Creek,  215:  Birmingham,  220; 
Tyrone,  223;  Tipton,  226;  Bell's  Mills,  230;  Altoona,  237;  Kittaning  Point.  242; 
Oalitzin.  249;  Cresson,  252;  Lilly's,  255;  Wilmore,  262;  S.  Fork.  264;  Mineral 
Point,  269;  Conemaugh,  273:  Johnstown,  276;  Nineveh,  285;  New  Florence, 
289;  Bolivar,  295;  Blairsville  Intersection,  300;  Derry,  308;  Latrobe,  313; 
Greensburg,  323;  Penn,  328;  Irwin's,  332;  Carpenter's,  337;  Wall's,  839;  Brin- 
ton'8,  342 ;  Hawkins,  345 ;  E.  Liberty,  347} ;  Millvale.  319 ;  Lawrenceville,  352 ; 
Pittsburj^h,  854*;  Wheeling,  445;  Cleveland,  504;  Toledo,  615;  Detroit,  680; 
Fort  Wayne,  674;  Chicago,  822;  St.  Touis.  974;  Memphis,  1,154;  Mobile,  1,473; 
New  Orleans,  1,531 ;  St.  Paul,  1,231 ;  Duluth,  1,387 ;  Omaha;  1,316 ;  Cheyenne, 
1,832 ;  Salt  Lake  City,  2,382 ;  Sacramento,  3,088 ;  San  Francisco,  3,223  M.  from 
Philadelphia. 

The  through  train  on  this  route  from  Naw  York  to  the  West  crosses 
New  Jersey,  and  follows  the  r.  bank  of  the  Delaware  from  Trenton  to 
Frankford,  where  it  turns  W.  and  passes  around  the  city  of  Phila.  New 
York  to  Phila.  by  the  Penn.  R.  R.,  see  Route  37.  On  leaving  the  W. 
Phila.  station  (31st  and  Market  Sts.),  the  train  passes  near  the  S.  border 
of  Fairmomit  Park,  and  at  Hestonville  gives  a  view  of  St.  John's 
Asylum.  At  Overbrook  are  seen  the  imposing  buildings  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  Theological  School  of  St.  Charles  Borromeo,  which  was  founded 
in  1833,  and  educates  the  clergy  of  this  diocese.  The  buildings  are  of 
great  extent,  and  are  situated  in  pleasant  grounds,  while  their  domes  and 
cloisters  exemplify  the  light  and  cheerful  Italian  architecture.  The  line 
now  enters  the  fair  and  fruitful  county  of  Chester,  which  was  early 
settled  by  the  Friends,  and  is  now  largely  populated  by  German-Ameri- 
cans. For  a  long  distance  a  uniform  ridge  is  seen  on  the  r.,  bounding  the 
famous  Great  Valley.  The  dairy  products  of  this  county  are  of  great 
value,  and  clusters  of  farm-buildings  are  seen  on  cither  side,  among 
whicli  the  most  conspicuous  are  the  spacious  and  substantial  bams. 
Haverford  College  pertains  to  the  Friends,  and  was  founded  in  1833. 
It  has  5  professors  and  50-60  students,  with  a  library  of  8-10,000 
volumes.  At  Villa  Nova  are  seen  the  stone  buildings  of  the  Villa  Nova 
College,  pleasantly  situated  on  a  knoll  over  a  rich  farming  country.  It 
has  nearly  100  students,  and  is  conducted  by  the  Augustine  monks,  whose 
convent  is  near  the  college-halls.  Station,  Faoii,  near  the  ancient  tavern 
which  was  distinguished  over  a  century  ago  by  the  sign  of  Gen.  Paoli. 

2  M.  S.  W.  of  this  inn  is  the  marble  monument  which  marks  the  battle-field  of 
Paoli.  On  the  night  of  Sept.  21,  1777,  Gen.  Wayne  and  1,500  Americans  were 
encamped  here  in  fancied  security,  when  Gen.  Gray,  with  2  British  regiments, 
cut  off  their  pickets  and  attacked  the  lines.    The  Coutinentids,  hastily  forming 


340     RmtU  60, 


WEST  CHESTER. 


ii! 


by  the  light  of  the  camp-flres,  were  ritruck  with  resistless  force  by  the  hostile 
columns,  leaping  forth  n-om  the  stoi-ni  and  darlcness.  A  pnniv-striclcen  flight 
ensued,  and  the  assailants,  refusing  to  give  quarter,  bayoneted  150  men.  Tliey 
then  scattered  Smallwood's  Marylanders  (1,160  men),  and  remained  in  possession 
of  the  American  camps,  stores,  and  artillery.  About  2  M.  trom  Paoli  was  born 
(Jan.  1,  1745)  Anthony  Wayne,  one  of  the  bravest  and  most  brilliant  of  the 
officers  of  the  army.  He  was  called  "  Mad  Anthony  Wayne,"  and  was  especially 
distinguished  for  t1;e  storming  of  Stony  Point  (see  page  69),  and  for  his  victorious 
campaigns  against  the  Indians  of  Ohio  (1792  -  94^ 

The  West  Chester  R.  R.  runs  S.  W.  from  the  intersection,  2  M.  be- 
yond Paoli,  to  West  Cheiter,  the  capital  of  Chester  County.  The 
borough  contains  5,630  inhabitants,  and  is  beautifully  situated  on  a  ridge 
over  the  fertile  valley.  There  are  3  fine  academies  here ;  and  the  villas 
and  mansions  in  the  vicinity  are  neat,  and  occupy  embellished  grounds. 
The  West  Chester  &  Phila.  B.  R.  runs  thence  S.  E.  and  E.  to  Phila. 

Dovmington  is  a  pretty  rural  village  near  the  marble-quarries  which 
supplied  Girard  College.  The  Chester  Valley  R.  ^.runs  thence  N.  E. 
22  M.  through  the  garde.'^-like  Great  Valley  to  Bridgeport  (see  page  331); 
and  the  Wayneshurg  Branch  runs  18  M.  N.  W.  to  Waynesburg  (fare,  55c. ; 
time,  50  min.),  a  farming-centre  near  the  Welsh  Mt.  The  Pittsburgh 
train  passes  S.  W.  to  the  prosperous  borough  of  Coatesville  (3,000  in- 
habitants), where  the  W.  Branch  of  the  Brandywine  is  crossed  on  a  bridge 
900  ft.  long  and  60  ft.  high.  The  Wilmington  &  Reading  R.  R.  is  inter- 
Bi^cted  near  this  point  (see  page  337). 

The  Pmn.  &  Delatvare  R.  R.  runs  38  M.  S.  W.  trom  Pomeroy,  traversing  a  quiet 
rural  region.  At  Avondale  it  crosses  the  Phila.  &  Bait.  Central  R.  R.  ;  at  Lou- 
den beii^,  the  Wilmington  &  Western  R.  R.  ;  at  Newark,  the  Phila.,  Wil.  &  Bait. 
B.  R  ;  at  Del.  R.  R.  Crossing,  the  Delaware  R.  R. ;  and  in  2}  hrs.  from  Pomeroy 
the  train  reaches  Delaware  City. 

Parkesburg  is  a  new  and  thriving  village  with  iron-works  and  machine- 
shops.  From  Gap  station  a  pleasant  road  leads  off  through  the  pictur- 
esque hill-country  of  Che.ster  and  Lancaster,  whose  inhabitants  have  been 
likened,  in  their  frugality  and  simplicity,  to  the  Tyrolese.  They  ai-e 
mostly  Friends  or  descendants  of  Friends.  Tliis  district  was  called  by 
Theodore  Parker  the  most  beautiful  country  that  he  had  ever  seen.  From 
Mine  Ridge  the  railroad  overlooks  the  rich  plains  of  Lancaster  County, 
which  has  been  called  "the  garden  of  America,"  and  is  occupied  by 
countless  small  farms  (6C  -  80  acres,  or  less),  whose  fine  bams  attract 
the  attention.  This  district  is  famous  for  its  large  and  powerful  drauglit- 
horses,  and  "or  fine  breeds  of  cattle.  The  county  is  also  remarkable  for 
its  multiform  theology,  and  it  is  claimed  that  no  spot  on  the  earth,  with 
so  small  a  population  and  area,  has  so  many  religious  sects.  In  addition 
to  the  more  familiar  churches,  there  are  many  rural  societies  of  the  Dun- 
kards,  Mennonites,  Amish,  and  other  singular  German  sects,  whose  vo- 
taries are  generally  distinguishable  by  peculiarities  of  costume  and  per- 
sonal appearance  (see  page  383).    Beyond  Gap  the  train  descends  to  the 


LANCASTER. 


MouU  SO.      341 


Peqnea  Valley,  which  was  settled  in  1709  by  Swiss  Mennonites  from 
Zurich  and  Berne,  whose  deputies  returned  to  Europe  and  brought  over 
large  numbers  of  fellow-sectaries.  From  Leaman  Place  a  branch  railroad 
runs  4  -  6  M.  S.  W.  to  the  pleasant  borough  of  Strasburg.  The  train  now 
crosses  Pequea  Creek,  traverses  the  towt  of  Lampeter,  and  reaches 

Lanoafter. 

Hotels*  -  The  Stevens  House  is  a  new  and  flrst-class  hotel ;  the  City  Hotel ; 
Michael's  ;  and  several  other  small  houses  are  near  the  station. 

Railroads.  —  The  Penn.  B.  R.,  to  PhiU.  in  69  M.,  to  Harrisburg  (36  M.) 
and  Pittsburgh  (285  M.) ;  the  Reading  k  Columbia,  to  Reading  in  42  M.  (see 
Route  48) ;  the  Columbia  Branch,  to  Columbia  in  12  M.  (and  Harrisburg  in  87 
M.)'  Stages  run  from  Lancaster  to  Safe  Harbor,  Peach  Bottom,  New  Hollow, 
Gordonsville,  Millersville,  Fairville,  Nefibville,  Rawlinsville,  and  Quarryville. 

Lancaster,  the  capital  of  Lancaster  County,  is  favorably  situated  in  a 
rich  fanning  country,  1  M.  W.  of  Conestoga  Creek.  It  has  20,233  in- 
habitants, with  21  churches  (1  Moravian,  1  Mennonite),  2  daily  papers, 
and  6  weeklies  (2  German),  and  3  banks.  There  are  extensive  manufac- 
tories of  locomotives,  rifles,  carriages,  axes,  and  other  wares;  and  there  is 
a  considerable  slack-water  navigation  on  the  Conestoga,  which  descends 
by  9  locks  to  Safe  Harbor,  18  M.  S.  W.  on  the  Susquehanna  River.  The 
city  is  compactly  built  (for  the  most  part  of  brick),  and  its  main  streets. 
King  and  Queen,  intersect  each  other  in  a  wide  central  plaza,  which  is 
generally  crowded  on  market  days.  To  the  E.,  on  E.  King  St.,  is  the 
imposing  building  of  the  Court  House,  with  a  portico  supported  on  Co- 
rinthian columns.  Farther  out  on  E.  King  St.  is  the  County  Prison,  a 
neat  building  in  Norman  architecture.  At  the  W.  end  of  James  St.  are 
the  halls  of  Franklin  and  Marshall  College,  an  institution  of  the  German 
Reformed  Church,  with  7  professors,  70  -  80  students,  and  a  library  of 
13,000  volumes.  Franklin  College  was  founded  in  1787,  and  was  well 
endowed  by  the  State ;  but  languished  and  was  finally  closed  up.  The 
Reformed  Cliurch  assumed  its  control  in  1853,  and  united  it  with  Marshall 
College.  The  buildings  are  neat  and  substantial,  and  command  pleasant 
views  of  the  city  and  the  Conestoga  Valley.  S.  Queen  St.  leads  to  the 
Woodward  Hill  Cemetery,  a  large  and  picturesque  ground  in  a  bend  of 
the  creek;  and  the  old  Moravian  graveyard  is  on  North  St.,  near  Chest- 
nut. Fulton  Hall  is  near  the  market-place,  and  is  much  used  for  evening 
entertainments. 

Lancaster  was  laid  out  in  1728  by  order  of  the  Penn  proprietors,  and  was 
rapidly  settled  by  German  Lutherans.  In  1742  it  was  made  a  borough,  and  in 
1754  it  had  over  2,000  inhabitants,  with  manufactories  of  saddles  and  guns.  The 
turnpike  leading  to  PhiLa.  is  said  to  be  the  oldest  in  the  Hepublic,  and  was  built 
1792-94  at  a  cost  of  $465,000  (<i2  M.  long).  lu  1764  the  Presbyterian  fanatics  of 
Paxton  and  Donegal  attaclced  (without  provocation)  the  village  of  the  peaceable 
Conestoga  Indians,  and  killed  several  of  their  number.  The  remainder  were 
guarded  in  the  Lancaster  workhouse  until  2  weeks  later,  when  50  Paxton  horse- 
men rode  into  the  town,  forced  the  workhouse  doors,  and  massaci'ed  the  unarmed 


342    Route  30. 


HARRISBURO. 


li! 


I  ' 


I  I 


;  I 


and  blameless  Indians, — men,  women,  and  children.  Large  forces  then  gathered 
and  marcliud  on  Phila. ,  designing  to  exterminate  the  Moravian  Indians  who  had 
taken  siielter  there  ;  but  tlie  tranquil  Quaicent  arouHed  tliemselves  and  took  arms, 
and  tlte  ex]>edition  came  to  naught.  Lancaster  was  'for  many  years  the  largest 
inland  city  in  the  U.  8.  ;  and  was  the  capital  of  the  State  from  1790  to  1812. 

Among  the  natives  of  Lancaster  were  Dr.  A.  L.  Atlee  ;  B.  8.  Barton,  the 
naturalist ;  John  W.  Forney,  the  Journalist  (founder  of  the  Phila.  Press,  and  Sec. 
of  the  U.  8.  Senate,  1861-08) ;  Col.  George  and  Uen.  John  Oibson,  Gen.  Henry 
Miller,  Col.  Naumann,  Oen.  John  Steele,  and  Gen.  Andrew  Porter,  of  the  U.  S. 
Army  ;  Gen.  J.  F.  Reynolds,  who  was  killed  while  leading  the  vanguard  at  Gettys- 
burg ;  David  Ramsay,  the  historian ;  and  Lindlev  Murray  (in  a  neighboring  vil- 
lagej,  the  grammarian.  Bishop  Otterbein  here  lounded  the  sect  of  the  United 
Brethren,  which  has  90,000  communicants  in  the  U.S.;  and  J.  W.  Nevin,  D.  D., 
the  originator  of  the  Mercersburg  system  of  theology,  has  resided  here  for  many 
years.  Robert  Fulton,  the  inveutor  of  steam-navigation  (see  page  88),  one  of  tlie 
most  ingenious  and  energetic  of  men,  was  bom  in  tliis  county  and  educated  in 
Lancaster.  1  M.  from  tlie  city  is  Wheatland,  the  estate  where  lived  for  many  years 
James  Buchanan,  the  15th  President  of  the  U.  8.  He  was  bom  in  Franklin  County 
in  1791 ;  became  a  successful  lawyer  at  Lancaster;  was  in  Congress  from  1821  to 
1831 ;  minister  to  Russia,  1832-34  ;  U.  8.  Senator,  1834-35  ;  Secretary  of  State, 
1846-49;  minister  to  England,  1853-56.  In  1856  he  was  elected  President  by 
the  Democratic  party  ;  and  during  the  last  months  of  his  administration  tlie 
Southern  States  declared  themselves  free.  Buchanan's  extreme  views  of  State 
Bights  prevented  him  from  re-enforcing  and  defending  the  U.  8.  forts  and  arse- 
nals in  the  insurgent  States ;  and  he  left  public  life  at  Uie  outbreak  of  the  Seces- 
sion War.    In  1868  he  died  at  Wheatland. 

The  train  runs  N.  W.  from  Lancaster,  and  at  Dillersville,  1  M.  distant, 
the  Columbia  Branch  diverges  to  the  1.  At  Landisville  the  line  is  inter- 
sected by  the  Reading  k  Columbia  R.  R.  (Route  48),  and  beyond  the 
wealthy  borough  of  Mount  Joy  the  South  Mt.  ridge  is  seen  on  the  r. 
Elizabethtown  is  near  the  gap  in  the  South  Mt.,  and  the  train  crosses  the 
Conewago  Creek  on  a  fine  bridge  100  ft.  high  and  meets  the  Columbia 
Branch  near  the  bridge  over  the  Swatara.  Middletown  {Middhtovm 
Hotel;  Railroad  House)  is  an  important  shipping-point  at  the  confluence 
of  the  Swatara  and  the  Susquehanna  Rivers,  and  is  on  the  Union  Canal. 
It  has  over  8,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  seat  of  car-works,  foundries,  and 
machine-shops.  The  name  is  derived  from  the  fact  that  it  was  laid  out 
(in  1775)  as  a  midway  halting-place  between  Lancaster  and  Carlisle. 
The  train  now  runs  N.  W.  for  9  M.,  with  the  broad  Susquehanna  River 
on  the  1.  hand,  and  enters  the  city  of 

Harrisburg. 

Hotels.  —  '* Kirkwood  House,  98  a  day,  on  Market  Square ;  *Lochiel  House, 
$3,  on  Market  St. ;  Bolton's  Hotel,  on  Market  Square;  City  Hotel,  and  other 
small  houses  near  the  R.  R.  station.  State  Capitol  HoUse,  on  Sd  St.,  near  tlie 
Capitol  Park. 

BeadlnK-Booms.  —  State  Library,  in  the  Capitol,  open  9-12  and  2-4; 
Y.  M.  C.  A.,  College  Block,  2d  St.  Ainusemients  at  the  new  Opera  House,  on  3d 
St.,  near  the  Cai»itol. 

Horse-Cars.  —  From  the  R.  R.  station  up  Markel  St.  to  2d  St.,  and  N.  on 
Walnut,  Sd,  Vcrbeke,  and  6th  Sts.,  passing  the  State  Capitol  and  running  near 
the  Insane  Asylum. 

Bailroads.  —  The  Penn.  R.  R.  to  Lancaster,  69  M. ;  to  Phila.,  106  M. ;  to 
New  York,  198  M. ;  to  Altoona,  131  M. ;  to  Pittsburgh,  248  M. ;  to  Erie,  841  M.; 
—the  Northern  Central  Railway,  to  B^timorej  8&  M. ;  to  Washington*  125  M. ; 


HARRISBURO. 


RmUeSO,    343 


to  Elmln,  171  Iff. ;-  to  Rochester,  269  M. ;— the  Cumberland  VolleT  R  R,  to 
Hagentown,  74  M. ;  —  the  Lebanon  Valley  R.  R  (Alleutown  Line),  to  Reading, 
M  M. ;  to  AUentown,  90 ;  to  New  York,  182. 

Harririburg  waa  fniinded  in  1719  by  John  Harris,  a  Yorkshire  brewer  who  had 
made  a  fortune  by  removing  stumps  from  the  streets  of  Philadelphia.  The  land 
was  called  Paxton,  and  was  owned  by  the  Unami  tribe  of  the  Delaware  nation. 
The  settlers  marched  toward  the  scene  of  the  Mahanoy  massacre  in  1755,  but 
were  ambushed  and  lost  several  men ;  and  at  a  later  day  the  Indians  (led  by 
French  officers)  killed  many  of  the  [>eople.  The  4th  Penn.  battalion  was  raised 
in  this  vicinity  during  the  Revolution  ;  and  in  1784  John  Harris,  Jr.,  laid  out  the 

[)resent  city.  In  1789  -  00  the  Republic  v/hs  nearly  broken  up  by  fierce  discussions 
n  Congress,  —  the  Northern  and  Eastern  members  demanding  that  the  national 
capital  should  be  located  on  the  Susquehanna,  near  Harrisburg,  while  tlie 
members  fropi  the  8.  and  W.  insisted  on  the  line  of  the  Potr)mac.  The  per- 
suasions of  Jefferson  finally  located  the  capital  on  the  Potomac.  In  1786  the 
town  was  named  Louiaburg,  in  honor  of  the  King  of  France ;  while,  in  honor  of 
the  prince-royal,  his  son,  the  county  received  the  name  of  Dauphin  (which  it  still 
retains).     Harrisburg   hecainc   a  borough  in  1791;  the  Oracle  of  Dauphin  ne.y/B- 

f)aper  was  started  in  the  same  year ;  and  in  1812  the  capital  of  the  titate  was  located 
lere.  Washington  and  Jjafayette  were  received  at  Harrisburg  with  great  ceremony; 
and  13  companies  left  this  vicinity  for  the  War  of  1812  (1st  and  2d  Penn.  Regs.). 

The  city  is  now  largely  engaged  in  manufactures,  and  is  favored  by  its  proxim- 
ity to  the  great  mineral  deposits  of  the  State.  The  chief  industries  are  the  car- 
fact«)ries,  steel-works,  and  the  rolling-mills  and  furnaces  of  the  Lochiel  Iron  Co. 

Harrisburg,  the  capital  of  Pennsylvaniaf  is  favorably  situated  on 
alluvial  hills  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Susquehanna  River,  106  M.  from 
Philadelphia,  and  248  M.  from  Pittsburg.  It  has  24,796  inhabitants,  30 
churches,  6  banks,  4  daily  and  6  weekly  papers.  The  surrounding 
scenery  is  pleasing,  and  the  country  is  very  populous;  and  the  city 
derives  much  importance  from  its  railroad  connections  with  the  Sus- 
quehanna, Juniata,  and  Cumberland  Valleys.  The  State  Capitol  is  a 
comfortable  but  antiquated  building  on  a  hill  N.  of  the  city,  and  fronting 
down  State  St.,  on  the  Susquehanna.  The  main  entrance  is  by  a  circular 
portico  upheld  by  6  Ionic  columns  of  sandstone,  36  ft.  high.  From  this 
point  a  lofty  rotunda  is  entered,  with  the  Senate  Chamber  on  the  1.,  and 
the  House  of  Representatives  on  the  r.,  —  low  and  unpretentious  but 
comfortable  chambers.  The  chair  of  the  Speaker  of  the  House  is  the 
same  in  which  John  Hancock  sat  while  signing  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence and  also  Lafayette's  commission  in  the  American  army.  The 
State  Library  is  in  the  second  story,  and  contains  30,000  volumes,  in  a 
well-lighted  and  cheerful  hall,  whose  centre  is  occupied  by  a  statue  of 
Minerva.  Around  the  galleries  are  an'anged  portraits  of  29  governors  of 
the  colony  and  State,  including  Mifflin,  Franklin,  and  Penn  (the  latter 
bearing  date  1666,  and  representing  Penn  in  full  armor,  and  with  long 
hair).  The  portrait  of  Gov.  Geary  (over  the  door)  is  by  Rothermel.  In 
cabinets  here  are  a  few  notable  curiosities,  —  medals,  quaint  coins,  letters 
of  Franklin  and  Hamilton,  Continental  money,  ancient  royal  charters 
(Charles  II.  to  Penn),  Indian  deeds  of  land,  a  Mexican  lance,  and  the 
flags  of  the  Hessian  garrison  of  Trenton,  Opposite  the  Adjutant- 
General's  office  is  a  room  in  which  are  skilfullydisplayed  the  830  flags  of 


344    Route  60. 


HARRISBURO. 


'lilli  :  I 


m 


the  Penn.  regiments  in  the  Secession  War  (28  only  were  lost).  The  snmmit 
of  the  dome  is  always  accessible,  and  commands  an  attractive  *  view  of 
the  city  and  its  environs,  with  the  broad  Susquehanna,  and  its  passage 
throiigh  the  mts.  to  the  N.  W.  Flanking  the  Capitol  are  two  buildings 
in  similar  architecture,  occupied  by  the  State  and  Land  Departments. 
To  the  S.  is  a  lofty  and  graceful  marble  monument  in  honor  of  the 
Penn.  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  Mexican  War.  Beyond  this  is  the  State 
Arienal,  with  its  military  armaments  and  park  of  artillery.  Among  the 
eannon  are  2  captured  at  Cerro  Qordo,  and  4  which  were  brought  to 
America  by  D'Estaing,  and  were  presented  by  Lafayette  to  Congress. 
The  oriflamme  is  emblazoned  on  each  gun,  and  near  the  muzzle  is  the 
significant  legend,  Ultima  Ratio  Regum.  Between  the  Capitol  and  the 
river  is  a  rude  and  unadorned  obelisk  raised  in  honor  of  the  soldiers  of 
Dauphin  County  who  died  in  the  Civil  War.  The  Court  House  is  a 
spacious  brick  building  on  Market  St.,  with  a  high  portico  and  a  dome. 
Just  below  the  long  and  costly  bridges  which  cross  the  Susquehanna  is  the 
Harris  Park,  where  is  seen  the  trunk  of  the  tree  to  which  John  Harris, 
the  pioneer  of  the  city,  was  bound  by  hostile  Indians.  They  were  about 
to  bum  him  to  death,  when  a  rescuing  party  arrived  and  drove  them 
away. 

Front  8t.  is  on  the  bank  of  the  Susquehanna,  and  is  lined  with  fine 
mansions.  It  is  a  favorite  promenade,  and  commands  a  series  of  pleasant 
views  of  the  river,  with  its  villages,  islands,  and  bridges.  During  the 
advance  of  the  Confederate  army,  in  1863,  Harrisburg  was  seriously 
menaced,  and  the  opposite  heights  were  crowned  with  strong  field-works. 
The  villages  of  Wormleysburg  and  W.  Fairview  are  seen  on  the  S.  shore, 
and  the  2  parallel  bridges  (railroad  and  highway)  which  cross  at  Foster's 
Island.  1^  M.  N.  W.  of  Harrisburg  is  the  State  Lunatic  Asylum, 
with  a  Tuscan  portico  and  spacious  wings.  The  view  from  the  dome  is 
extensive  and  diversified.  On  the  heights  to  the  N.  is  the  Brant  mansion 
(in  Gothic  architecture),  near  which  is  a'large  convent.  3  M.  distant  is 
the  ancient  Paxton  Church,  built  in  1722,  and  still  used.  Market  St. 
is  the  chief  busmess  thoroughfare,  and  crosses  State  St.  at  a  wide  square, 
which  is  occupied  by  market-houses.  There  are  several  large  churches, 
and  the  Opera  House  is  a  costly  building.  The  Harrisburg  Cemetery  is 
favorably  situated  on  the  ridge  above  the  Penn.  Canal  and  the  Paxton 
Creek,  and  is  approached  by  State  St.  It  affords  a  fine  prospect  of  the 
river  and  city,  and  of  the  Kittatinny  Mts.  on  the  N.  and  W. 

As  the  train  leaves  Harrisbui-g  for  the  W.,  it  passes  the  Insane  Asylum 
on  the  r.,  and  runs  N.  to  that  picturesque  point  where  the  Susquehanna 
breaks  through  the  Blue  Mt.  This  fine  pass  has  been  likened  to  an  epi- 
sode of  the  scenery  of  the  Rhine,  at  Andemach.  The  train  now  crosses 
the  river  on  a  bridge  3,670  ft.  long,  whence  pleasant  views  are  afforded  on 


JUNUTA  VALLEY. 


JtauU  60.      345 


either  side.  This  bridge  was  defended  1>y  block-houses  during  the  Secet« 
sion  War.  On  the  1.  is  Cove  Mt.,  which  forms  a  semi-ellipse,  with  both 
ends  resting  on  the  river  and  enclosing  a  valley  6  M.  wide,  called  The 
Cove.  A  second  gap  is  now  approached  on  the  N.,  in  which  Peter's  Mt. 
is  passed,  amid  pleasant  and  highly  pictureRque  scenery.  Station,  /)u-> 
cannon  (at  the  mouth  of  Sherman's  Creek),  whence  a  road  leads  12  M. 
W.  to  the  Perry  Warm'  Springs.  The  line  soon  diverges  from  the  Susque^ 
hanna  River,  and  follows  the  course  of  the  beautiful  Juniata,  ascending 
through  a  wild  and  picturesque  region  of  mts.  and  ravines.  The  narrow 
and  fertile  limestone  valleys  which  diverge  on  either  side  are  occupied  by 
farms  and  small  hamlets ;  but  extensive  districts  among  the  rugged  mts. 
are  still  in  the  wilderness  state,  and  are  frequented  for  the  arduous  sports 
of  deer  and  bear  hunting.  The  accommodations  for  tourists  are  but 
limited,  and  much  of  the  best  scenery  is  seen  from  the  cars.  This  region 
was  formerly  inhabited  by  an  active  tribe  of  Indf  ms,  who  subsisted  on 
the  game  which  then  abounded  here;  and  the  Delawares  and  Nantiookes 
held  the  lower  valley  for  many  years. 


•*  Okt  wu  the  mountaln-flong 
Of  bright  AlfaraU, 
Where  sweep  the  waters  of 
The  blue  Juniata. 


**  Strong  and  t"ie  my  arr'>wi  ar«, 
In  mv  painteu  quiver : 
Swift  goee  my  Iisht  cano* 
Adown  the  rapicfriver." 


2  M.  above  Duncannon,  the  hamlet  of  Btfnyenne  is  seen  on  this  r.,  on 
Duncan's  Island,  a  long  and  level  alluvial  island  at  the  co;  Jluvnce  of  the 
rivers.  The  aqueduct  of  the  Penn.  Canal  is  on  the  r.  as  i>he  train  turns 
to  the  N.,  with  the  Juniata  close  alongside.  On  the  1.  is  Dick's  Hill, 
above  which  the  Limestone  Bidge  (1.)  and  Half-FaUs  Mt.  (r.)  nearly  close 
the  gorge. 

Duncan's  Island  was  occupied  at  an  early  date  by  the  Dela^vares,  who  were 
afterwards  defeated  here  after  a  battle  in  which  1,000  men  were  slain.  The 
Delawares  fought  heroically;  but  the  Cayugas  were  armed  with  muskets,  and 
therein  held  a  decided  advantage.  In  1740  the  Hcotch-Irish  settled  here,  but 
were  soon  evicted  by  the  Penn  proprietors,  who  also  burnt  their  cabins.  The 
Nanticoke  Indians  located  on  these  fertile  plains  after  leaving  the  Valley  of 
Wyoming,  and  were  visited  by  the  austere  and  fearless  missionaries,  Loskiel,  the 
Moravian,  and  Brainerd,  the  Puritan.  Brainerd  called  these  Indians  "  pa^na 
and  idolaters,"  and  endeavored,  by  the  aid  of  the  h  il :.  to  spoil  the  incantations 
and  frustrate  twe  charms  during  their  great  religiou  •  ■'sstival.  But  the  Nanticoke 
pontiff  said  that  God  had  taught  him  his  religion,  and  he  would  never  turn  ttom 
it ;  adding  that  he  would  not  believe  In  the  Devil,  and  maintaining  that  the  souls 
of  the  dead  passed  to  the  South,  where  the  good  were  kept  in  a  fair  city  with 
spiritual  walls,  while  the  evil  hovered  forever  ia  outer  darkness. 

As  Buffalo  Mt.  is  approached  on  tlie  r.,  the  train  re&chea  Newport,  a 
river- village,  whence  a  road  leads  5  M.  S.  W.  to  Bloomfield,  the  capital  of 
Perry  County,  a  small  and  dejadent  borough  in  the  Mahanoy  Valley.  The 
Ttiscarora  Mt.  is  now  seen  in  advance,  filling  all  the  horizon  with  its  long 
and  even-crested  ridge.  Beyond  MiUerstovm  a  narrow  defile  is  traversed 
in  this  ridge,  and  the  line  enters  the  great  Ttiscarora  Valley,  which  ex- 
tends for  50  K.  between  the  Shade  and  Tuscarora  Mts.  From  the  slope 
15* 


846      JtotUe  CO, 


LEWISTOWN. 


of  Law's  Ridge  pleasant  views  are  now  enjoyed  of  Mifflintown,  which  is 
•oon  reached  by  the  train.  It  is  a  pleasant  liamlet  on  the  1.  bank  of  the 
Juniata,  and  is  the  capital  of  Juniata  County.  4  M.  beyond  this  point 
tlie  line  enters  the  romantic  pass  called  the  Long  Marrowi,  where  the 
river  is  compressed  into  a  gorge  which  is  overhung  by  bold  bluffs  and 
shaggy  hills.  Within  these  .contracted  limits  the  railroad,  highway, 
river,  and  canal  make  many  broad  curves  between  the  broken  lines  and 
low  peaks  of  the  Shade  Mt.  and  the  Blue  Ridge.  These  heights  are  said 
to  be  haunted  by  the  ghost  of  Captain  Jack  (otherwise  called  the  "  Wild 
Hunter  of  the  Juniata,"  and  the  "Black  Hunter"),  a  daring  ranger  and 
Indian-lighter  of  the  early  colonial  days. 

Lowiftown  (National  Hotel;  ColemarCs)  is  seen  across  the  river  from 
the  station  of  the  same  name  (stiges  run  to  the  hotels).  It  is  a  borough 
of  2,787  inhabitants,  situated  on  high  ground  on  the  1.  bank  of  the  Juniata, 
nearly  midway  between  Jack's  Mt.  and  the  Blue  Ridge.  It  is  the  capital 
of  Mifflin  County,  and  the  Court  House  occupies  a  conspicuous  position 
on  the  central  square.  Lewistown  Avas  settled  by  the  Buchanans  about 
the  year  1755.  Fort  Granville  wai  built  1  M.  above,  and  was  garrisoned 
by  provincial  troops,  but  the  French  and  Indians  captured  it  in  1756,  and 
tortured  several  of  the  soldiers.  6  M.  N.  (near  Reedsville)  <«  Logan's 
Spring^  the  favorite  camping-ground  of  the  great  chief,  Logan,  a  firm 
friend  of  the  Americans,  and  a  brave  and  accomplished  chief.  He  moved 
to  Ohio  in  1771 ;  and  in  1774  his  family  was  slaughtered  by  marauding 
Americans.  Thereafter,  until  his  violent  death  in  1780,  he  was  the  scourge 
of  the  Western  settlements.  Logan's  famous  speech  to  the  American  en- 
voys is  preserved  in  Jefferson's  "  Notes  on  Virginia."  From  Lewistown 
the  picturesque  Kishacoquillas  Valley  is  entered,  and  may  be  followed  to 
the  N.  for  13  M.  to  the  Sevtn  Mta.  It  is  enclosed  between  Jack's  Mt.  and 
Stone  Mt.  (Blue  Ridge),  and  on  the  E.  "is  split  into  3  deep,  picturesque 
Tales  by  2  long  mts.  standing  out  in  the  valley  like  stranded  ships  turned 
^ttom  up."  Opposite  Logan's  Gap  it  is  4  M.  wide,  and  is  "  a  paradise  of 
beautiful  fertility."  Fine  trouting  is  found  in  the  upper  parts  of  the 
iralley  ;  on  the  Blus  Ridge  to  the  S.  is  an  unbroken  wilderness  which  ex- 
tends for  many  leagues,  and  is  haunted  by  bears  and  deer. 

The  Miffiin  Jt  Ctntrt  County  R,  R.  runs  13  M.  N.  (in  50  min. ;  fare,  40c.)  from 
Lewistown  to  the  sequestered  hamlet  of  Milroy  (450  inhabitants),  which  is  near  tlie 
silent  passes  of  the  Seven  Mts.  This  railroad  follows  the  Kishacoquillas  Craek 
througn  a  deep  defile  in  Jack's  Mt.  and  enters  Armagh,  whose  fertile  limestone 
inUleys  are  overlooked  by  knob-like  peaks. 

The  Lewistown  Division. 

Statlona*  —  Lewistown  Junction  ;  Lewistown,  1  M. ;  Haitland,  5 ;  Painter,  8 ; 
fihindel,  II ;  Wagner,  12 :  McClure,  17 ;  Adamsburg,  23 ;  Beavertown,  25  ;  Benfer, 
SO;  Middleburg,  S3;  Meiser's,  SO;  Kreamer,  87;  Pawling,  89;  Selinsgrove,  43; 
Selinsgrove  Junction,  46 ;  Sunbury,  60.  This  railroad  (2  trains  daily)  traverses  a 
thinly  settled  (Ustrict  between  Jack's  and  Shade  Mts.   The  inhabitants  are  mostly 


BEDFORD  SPRINGS. 


RimU  60,      347 


of  German  origin,  and  are  enoaged  in  agriculture.  Beavertown  and  MiddUburg 
are  the  chief  statiouH  on  the  lino ;  and  at  SeUnavrove  the  train  cpohbcs  the 
broad  and  many-islanded  Susquehanna  and  connects  wltii  tiio  N.  Central  R.  R. 
(Route  00). 

The  Penn.  R.  R.  runs  S.  W.  from  Lewistown  with  the  Juniata  on  the 
T.  and  the  Blue  Ridge  on  the  1.  At  Newton  Hamilton  the  Great  Aughwick 
Valley  opens  to  the  S. ;  and  at  the  prosperous  borough  of  Mount  Union, 
the  line  passes  through  a  gap  In  Jack's  Mt.  A  narrow-gauge  R.  R.  runs 
12  M.  S.  from  Mt.  Union  to  Orbiaonia,  in  the  Germany  Valley.  The 
Sideling  Hill  is  soon  seen  on  the  1. ;  beyond  which  a  view  is  afforded  (1.) 
of  the  mouth  and  lower  valley  of  the  beautiful  Raystoton  Juniata  (branch 
river).  Huntingdon  {Ellsworth  House  ;  Mansion)  is  finely  situated  on 
the  1.  bank  of  the  Juniata,  and  has  a  large  shipping  trade.  The  Hunting- 
don  Warm  Springs  are  5  M.  N.,  near  the  foot  of  the  Warrior  Ridge  ;  and 
on  the  Ridge  are  the  remarkable  bowlders  known  as  the  Pulpit  Mocka. 
The  views  from  Warrior  Ridge  are  of  great  breadth  and  interest.  The 
borough  contains  over  3,000  inhabitants,  and  occupies  the  site  of  an  im- 
portant village  of  the  Oneidas.  It  was  founded  by  the  Provost, of  the 
University  of  Penn.  before  the  Revolution,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  the 
Countess  of  Huntingdon,  who  had  been  a  benefactress  of  the  University. 

The  Huntingdon  ds  Broad  Top  R.  R. 

Stations.  —  Huntingdon  ;  McConnelstown,  6  M. ;  Pleasant  Grove,  7  ;  Mark- 
lesbiug,  11 ;  Coffee  Run,  15 ;  Rough  and  Ready,  11  ;  Cove,  20 ;  Suxton,  24  ;  Rid- 
dlesbuig,  29;  Hopewell,  31;  Tatesville,  40;  Bloody  Run,  43;  Mt.  Dallas,  44; 
Lutzviilo,  47 ;  Bedford.  52  ;  Woli'aburg,  65  ;  Napier,  57 ;  Sulphur  Springs,  62  ; 
Londonderry,  66 ;  Preston,  71 ;  Bridgeport,  75  (Cumberland.  89). 

The  train  crosses  tlte  Juniata  at  Huntingdon,  and  runs  S.  W.  up  the  arable  and 
productive  valley,  witli  Tussey'a  Mt.  on  the  r.  From  Scuton  a  branch  diverges  to 
Vocdinont  and  Broad  Top  City*  on  the  high  plateau  of  Broad  Top  Mt.  This 
region  abounds  in  senil-bituminous  coal,  and  has  23  collieries,  from  which  474,178 
tons  were  «ent  to  marlcet  in  1873.  Tlie  Raystown  Juniata  is  crossed  near  Sax- 
ton;  and  from  Middleburg  (between  Warrior  Ridge  and  Round  Knob)  a  branch 
line  runs  E.  to  Fairplay.  The  train  passes  throu^^h  the  Warrior  Ridge,  in  the 
gap  whicii  is  formed  by  the  Raystown  Juniata;  tlien  traverses  Evitt's  Mt.  and 
reaches  Bedford  {Juniata  Hmiso.  the  capital  of  Bedford  County.  This  borough 
(1,247  inhabitants)  is  lieautifuUy  situated  on  a  limestone  vidge,  surrounded  by  tall 
nits.,  and  nan'ow  fertile  glens,  and  is  favorably  linown  for  the  purity  and  coolness 
of  its  air.  Bedford  Springs  ( *Bedford  Sprinija  Hotel)  are  ll  M.  ftom  the 
borough,  in  a  pretty  glen  under  Dunning's  Mt.  The  chief  spring  is  chalybeate, 
and  contains,  in  each  gallon,  5  grains  of  carbonate  of  iron,  8  of  carbonate  of  lime, 
80  of  sulphate  of  magnesia,  10  of  chloi'ido  of  sodium,  and  15  of  sulphate  of  lime. 
Tlie  effect  is  cathartic,  and  affords  relief  in  cases  of  aysi>epsia,  incipient  consump- 
tion, dialwtes,  and  cutaneous  diseases.  In  the  curative  process  much  credit  la 
also  given  to  the  pure  mountain  air.  40  rods  from  thechalyWate  spring  is  a  strong 
sulpliur-spring ;  and  a  line  of  pleasant  wallcs  leads  to  the  summit  of  Constittition 
Hill,  whence  are  afforded  tine  views  of  Bedford  and  its  encircling  mts.  These 
springs  were  discovered  in  1804,  and  have  been  a  popular  resort  for  over  60 
years. 

Tlie  R.  R.  passes  S.W.  ftrom  Bedford  with  Will's  Mt.  on  the  1. ;  and  at  Bridge- 
port connects  with  tlie  Pittsburg,  Washington  &  Baltimore  R.  R. 

Leaving  the  picturesque  environs  of  Huntingdon,  the  Pittsburgh  train 
runs  N.W.  throiigh  the  pass  in  Warrior  Ridge,  and  beyond  Peteraburgh 


348     Route  50.        BALD  EAGLE  VALLEY. 


1 


the  Juniata  is  seen  diverging  to  the  1.  To  the  S.  W.  is  MorrisorCa  Cove, 
a  rich  valley  wliich  was  settled  in  1755  by  the  German  J)unkards,  a  singu- 
lar religious  sect,  one  of  whose  doctrines  was  that  of  non-resistance.  In 
1777  the  Indians  entered  the  Cove  and  exterminated  the  settlers,  who  sub- 
missively bowed  to  the  stroke  of  death,  saying,  "  Oottes  mile  sex  gethan  " 
(God's  will  be  done).  One  of  their  number  (named  Neff)  made  resistance, 
killed  two  Indians  and  escaped;  but  for  this  inconsistent  action  he  was 
tried  by  the  Dunkard  Church  and  excommunicated.  The  train  passes 
from  lofty  Petersburgh  up  the  valley  of  the  Little  Juniata,  and  penetrates 
the  long  ridge  of  Tussey's  Mt.  by  a  costly  tunnel.  Iron-funiaces  and  ore- 
banks  are  now  occasionally  seen ;  and  a  productive  iron-district  is  entered. 
Tyrone  {City  Hotel)  is  now  reached,  and  is  noted  for  its  great  iron-works 
and  forges.  It  is  the  chief  shipping-point  for  the  products  of  Clearfield 
and  Centre  Counties.  A  few  M.  S.  E.  is  the  Arch  Spring,  one  of  several 
curious  fountains  in  the  limestone  rock,  and  near  productive  lead-mines. 

The  Tyrone  A  Clearfield  Division  runs  41  M.  N.  W.  from  Tyrone  through  scantily 
populated  valleys  and  deep  ravines,  and  terminates  at  Clearfield  {Allegheny 
House),  the  capital  of  the  wide  forest-county  of  Clearfield.  It  is  situated  in  a 
region  of  pine-hills,  and  has  1,600  inhabitants,  5  churches,  and  2  papers.  At  24  M. 
from  Tyrone  the  train  passes  Fliilllpsburg  (Loyd  House),  a  neat  village  of  2,000 
inhabitants,  with  5  churches  and  2  papers.  It  is  located  on  the  Moshannon  River, 
far  up  on  the  Allegheny  Mts.,  and  was  founded  in  1796  by  Henry  Phillips  of  Eng- 
land.   Near  this  point  is  the  large  lumbering-village  of  Osceola  (Osceola  House). 

The  Bald  Eagle  Valley  Division. 

Stations.  —Tyrone ;  Bald  Eagle,  5  ;  Hannah,  10 ;  Port  Matilda,  14  ;  Martha, 
17  ;  Julian,  21  ;  Unionville,  26  :  Snow  Shoe  Intei*seetion,  29  (Snow  Shoe) ;  Miles- 
burg,  31  (Bellefonte,  33) ;  Curtin,  34  ;  Mount  Eagle,  37  :  Howard,  40 ;  Eagleville, 
44 ;  Beech  Creek,  46  ;  Mill  Hall,  61 ;  Lock  Haven,  65. 

Tliis  line  traverses  the  Bald  Eagle  Valley,  a  remarkable  hollow  be- 
tween the  main  chain  of  the  Alleghenies  and  the  ranges  which  are  known 
as  the  Bald  Eagle  Ridge  and  the  Muncy  Mount.  The  valley  is  from  4  to 
7  M.  wide,  and  has  a  productive  limestone  soil.  The  scenery  is  wild  and 
picturesqtie,  and  civilization  has  as  yet  made  but  slight  inroads  into  the 
region.  A  branch  line  diverges  to  the  N.  W.  at  the  Snow  Shoe  Intersec- 
tion, and  runs  to  Snow  Shoe^  a  prominent  village  among  the  mts.,  and 
the  chief  place  in  this  rugged  district.  Bellefonte  (*Bush  House,  300 
guests)  is  a  prosperous  borough  of  2,655  inhabitants,  with  the  public 
buildings  of  Centre  County.  It  is  largely  engaged  in  handling  and  export- 
ing the  products  of  the  valley,  and  also  of  the  Nittany  Valley.  Much 
iron  is  sent  to  market  from  this  point;  and  there  are  large  furnaces  iii  the 
vicinity.  A  canal  runs  hence  to  the  Susquehanna  Valley  at  Lockhaven. 
Bellefonte  is  finely  situated  at  the  foot  of  Bald  Eagle  Mt.,  and  is  famed 
for  the  purity  and  salubrity  of  its  air  and  the  beauty  of  its  environs.  Tlie 
romantic  district  of  the  Seven  Monntains  is  easily  reached  from  this 
point;  and  other  localities,  famous  for  hunting  and  fishing,  are  also  ac- 


ALTOONA. 


»auU  60.      349 


cessible.  The  borough  of  Bellefonte  is  supplied  with  water  from  the  large 
spring  which  has  given  it  name.  From  Milesburg  the  railroad  descends 
the  Bald  Eagle  Valley  fur  24  M.,  passing  several  small  hamlets,  and  then 
connects  with  the  Phila.  &  Erie  R.  R.  at  Look  Haven. 

A  railroad  is  being  constructed  from  Tyrone  to  LewUburg,  about  80  M.  N.  £., 
on  the  Susquelianna  River.  It  traverses  a  wild  and  rugged  district  among  the 
Seven  Mts.  and  the  Nittany,  Jack's,  and  Brush  ranges.  This  line  will  be  crossed 
at  Linden  Hall  by  a  railroad  from  Bellefonte  to  Milroy  (and  Lewistown). 


The  Pittsburgh  train  turns  S.  W.  from  Tyrone,  and  ascends  the  Tucka- 
hoe  Valley,  with  the  Brush  Mt.  on  the  1.  and  the  bold  AUegheuies  on  the 
r.  Iron  furnaces  and  mines  are  seen  on  either  side,  and  just  across  the 
shaggy  ridge  of  Brush  Mt.  is  a  region  of  lead-mines.  Beyond  the  petty 
hamlets  of  Tipton  and  Fostoria,  the  train  reaches  Altoona. 

Altoona  (* Logan  House^  at  the  station,  $3.50  a  day;  Brant  House;  St. 
Charles),  **  the  Mountain  City,"  is  situated  on  a  broad  plateau  at  the  £. 
base  of  the  Allegheny  Mts.,  and  at  the  head  of  the  Tuckahoe  Valley.  In 
1840  this  site  was  chosen  for  the  location  of  the  machine-shops  of  the 
Pennsylvania  R.  R.,  and  it  was  then  covered  by  an  ancient  forest  in 
whose  recesses  were  3  log-huts.  An  agent  was  sent  with  written  orders 
to  buy  the  land  of  the  woodsmen,  even  if  he  had  to  give  $  10,000  for  it. 
The  orders  wero  mislaid,  and  the  pioneer's  wife  found  them  just  in  time 
to  prevent  her  husband  from  selling  the  land  for  $  6,000.  The  authorized 
sum  was  paid,  and  in  1850  the  works  were  commenced.  At  that  time  a 
large  pond  occupied  the  site  of  the  present  hotels,  and  1  train  daily  (with 
3  cars)  was  sent  across  the  mts.  on  the  old  Portage  R.  R.  The  city  now 
has  15,000  inhabitants,  3  papers,  3  banks,  16  churches  (valued  at  $450,000), 
and  a  convent,  and  16  schools  with  3,000  pupils*.  Tlxe  fire  department  has 
8  steam-engines,  and  the  water  is  brought  from  a  point  4  M.  distant  by 
works  which  cost  $  300,000.  The  Mechanics*  Library  (near  the  Logan 
House)  contains  5,000  volumes.  Besides  the  immense  R.  R.  shops,  Al- 
toona has  numerous  other  manufactories,  including  foundries,  car-works, 
and  the  rolling-mill  of  the  Altoona  Iron  Co.  Travellers  from  the  E. 
arriving  here  at  evening  frequently  remain  over  night,  in  order  to  ascend 
the  Alleghenios  by  daylight. 

Hollidayshurg,  Morrison's  Cove,  and  Nevyry  Branches. 

Stations. —  Altoona;  Canan's,  4  M.;  Hollidaysburg,  8(Ncwry,  11);  Williams- 
burg Junction,  9  (Williamsburg,  22);  Reservoir,  11 ;  McKee'8,15;  Roaring  Spring, 
17  (Bloom&cld,  22);  Erb's,  19;  Murtinsburg,  22;  Henrietta  Junction,  24;  Henri 

etta,  23. 

Hollidaysburg  {A  merican  House)  is  the  capital  of  Blair  County,  and 
has  (with  its  close-lying  environs)  over  4,000  inhabitants,  with  8  churches 
and  a  popular  academy.  It  is  finely  situated  near  the  E.  base  of  the 
Alleghenies,  and  is  in  the  centre  of  a  region  prolific  in  iron  and  bitxuui' 


I  I 


4'' 


m 


.  H 


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1 


S50  "  Jtoute  60, 


CRESSON  SPRINGS. 


nous  coal.  It  is  on  the  great  National  Road  to  the  West,  and  was  the  E. 
terminus  of  the  old  Portage  R.  R.,  which  ascended  the  Alleghenies  by 
long  planes  and  stationary  engines.  There  is  fine  sporting  at  the  great 
reservoir  S.  E.  of  Chimney  Ridge ;  and  1  M.  from  the  borough  is  the 
Mountain  House,  a  summer  hotel  1,200  ft.  high.  The  village  of  Gay  sport 
is  adjacent  to  Hollidaysbrrg,  and  in  the  vicinity  are  large  blast-furnaces 
where  the  Juniata  iron  is  prepared  for  market.  A  branch  line  runs 
S.  W.  to  the  hamlet  of  Nevxry  ;  and  another  line  follows  the  Frankstown 
Juniata  to  the  N.  E.,  up  Plorrison's  Cove,  to  the  picturesque  village  of 
WUliainsburg^  beyond  the  Lock  Mt.  Still  another  railroad  runs  S.  E. 
from  Hollidaysbiirg,  folic  vi  j:  the  shore  of  the  Reservoir,  and  traversing 
Dunning's  Mt.  at  McKe  »  ixap.  Roaring  Spring  is  a  natural  curiosity 
which  is  much  visited  in  summer,  and  a  branch  line  runs  thence  to 
Bloonifield.  Tiie  train  passes  on  to  Martinshwrg  (Continental  House),  a 
neat  borough  of  800  inhabitants,  in  the  lower  part  of  Morrison's  Cove ; 
beyond  which  is  the  terminus  of  the  road,  at  Henrietia^  under  Tussey's 
Mt.  and  6  -  8  M.  from  Saxton,  on  the  Huntingdon  &  Broad  Top  R.  R. 


Beyond  Altoona  the  Pittsburgh  train  commences  the  ascent  of  the 
Allegheny  Mts.  The  engineering  works  on  this  section  exhibit  the 
greatest  skill  and  daring,  and  are  massive  and  of  great  strength.  Tlio 
grades  are  heavy  (maximum,  84^  ft.  to  1  M. ),  and  descending  trains  shut 
off  steam  and  keep  the  breaks  on  for  11  M.  The  L  side  of  the  car  should 
be  taken,  and  extensive  mt. -views  are  afforded  as  the  train  climbs  up 
along  the  side  of  the  great  ridge.  Near  Kittaning  Point  is  the  famous 
Horse-Shoe  Bend,  which  is  so  short  that  the  head  of  the  train  is  seen 
going  in  an  opposite  direction  from  the  rear  cars,  and  ascending  on  the 
farther  side  of  a  deep  ravine.  On  the  ridges  to  the  B.  are  seen  sections 
of  the  old  Portage  R.  R.,  and  the  Tuckahoe  Valley  is  overlooked  for  a 
great  distance.  At  the  summit  the.  train  passes  iYiTOVi^  ih&  Allegheny 
Tunnel,  which  is  2,200  ft.  above  the  sea  and  3,670  ft.  long.  Station, 
Galitzin  (Washington  House),  in  a  coal-mining  district.  Cresson  is  2^  M. 
beyond  the  Tunnel,  and  is  famous  as  a  summer  resort.  It  is  3,000  ft. 
above  the  sea,  and  has  accommodations  for  2,000  guests.  The  *Mountain 
Home  is  situated  amid  pleasant  groimds  to  the  1.  of  the  track,  and  is 
near  the  Cresson  Springs.  There  are.  7  of  these  springs,  the  chief  of 
which  is  a  pleasant  and  astringent  chalybeate  water  near  the  remains  of 
the  old  Portage  R.  R.  Near  this  point  is  a  strong  alum  spring,  and  there 
are  other  well-arranged  sources  on  the  hotel-grounds.  But  the  chief 
attraction  at  Cresson  is  the  remarkable  purity  and  coolness  of  the  air, 
which  is  doubtless  due  J;o  its  great  altitude.  The  thermometer  rarely 
reaches  75°  in  the  hottest  summer  days,  and  the  guests  sleep  under 
blankets  throughout  the  season.    The  bracing  quality  of  the  air  is  very 


JOHNSTOWN. 


RcnUelSO,      351 


beneficial  to  invalids  and  persons  who  have  beea  weakened  by  sedentary 
life.  The  rides  and  rambles  lead  from  the  hotels  to  several  points  of 
interest,  especially  to  certain  lofty  summits  which  command  broad  views 
over  the  Allegheny  ridge  and  the  valleys  to  the  E.  There  are  numerotu 
cottages  in  the  vicinity;  and  the  hotels  are  much  visited  by  people  from 
the  West,  whose  merchants,  passing  to  the  Atlantic  cities  on  business 
errands,  leave  their  families  at  Cresson  until  their  return.  There  is  a  large 
livery-stable  at  the  hotel,  and  the  railroad  runs  special  trains  over  the 
nioimtain  division  to  exhibit  its  scenery  to  the  guests. 

6-8  M.  N.  W.  of  Cressen  is  lioretto^  where  a  prosperous  Catholic  community 
was  establislied  in  1793  by  Father  Galitzin  (son  of  Prince  Qalitzin  of  Russia).  This 
remarlcable  man  was  some  time  a  Russian  army  officer,  but  came  to  America  iu 
1792,  designing  to  travel.  He  l)ecame  a  Catholic  priest,  and  expended  great  sums 
in  establishing  Loretto^  whence  Lis  missionary  charge  extended  over  the  whole 
mt.  region.  Hererused  the  episcopacy  several  times,  and  died  in  1840.  A  monu> 
nient  has  been  erected  to  his  memory  in  ttoni  of  the  Loretto  Church.  The  Catho* 
lie  College  of  St.  Francis  is  located  here,  and  has  12  instructors  and  90  students. 

The  Ebensburg  dt  Cresson  Branch  H.  A  runs  W.  to  Ebensburg  in  11  M.  (I  hr.  ; 
fare,  40c.).  This  borough  has  1,240  inhabitants,  and  is  the  capital  of  Cambria 
County.  It  has  3  Welsh  churches,  an<l  a  large  part  of  the  population  is  of  that 
nationality,  whose  language  is  generally  spoken  here  and  throughout  Cambria 
County.  Ebensburg  is  situated  on  a  high  ridge  of  the  Alleghenies,  and  commands 
broad  and  striking  views.  2  M.  N.  W.  is  the  deserted  hamlet  of  Beviah;  an4 
loretto  is  6  M.  E.N.  E. 

Beyond  Cresson  the  train  passes  several  rude  hamlets  and  traverses  a 
wide  and  desolate  plateau,  slowly  descending  by  the  side  of  the  Cone- 
maugh  Creek.  Near  the  station  of  the  same  name  is  the  massive  Cone- 
maugh  Viaduct ;  and  in  24  M.  from  Cresson  the  train  reaches  Johnstowil 
{Merchant's  Hotel)^  a  borough  of  6,028  inhabitants,  with  great  iron  and 
steel  works  and  manufactures.  The  Cambria  Iron  Works  are  located 
here,  and  employ  a  large  force;  The  borough  is  compactly  built,  at  the 
coulluence  of  the  Conemaugh  and  Stony  Creek,  and  has  a  broad  central 
square,  near  which  are  2  handsome  churches. 

Johnstown  was  settled  bj  Joseph  Jahns  in  1792,  and  soon  became  an  important 
station  on  the  line  of  emigration,  being  at  the  head  of  navigation  on  the  Western 
waters.  In  1834  the  canale  which  ran  I'-om  ihe  E.  and  W.  to  the  foot  of  the 
Alleghenies  were  joined  by  the  constriiiction  of  the  Allegheny  PorUige  R.  R., 
which  was  40  M.  long,  a^d  cost  $1,500,000.  It  crossed  the  ridge  at  a  point  2,500 
ft.  a1x)ve  the  sea ;  the  p.scent  from  the  E.  plains  being  1,398  ft.  :  and  the  descent 
to  the  W.  plateau  1,172  ft.  The  .:ars  were  drawn  by  stationary  engines  up  planes 
of  4 -6  degrees  of  inclination,  connected  by  winding  levels.  At  the  Staple  Bend 
was  a  tunnel  870  ft.  long ';  and  the  Horse-Shoe  Bend  was  crossed  by  a  massive 
viaduct  of  80  ft.  ^pan.  The  canal-boats  on  the  adjacent  waters  were  built  in  sec- 
tions ;  and  on  reaching  the  end  of  the  canals,  they  were  separated  into  4  trans- 
verse divisioiis,  and  cairied  across  the  mts.  on  cars.  The  emigrants  and  freight 
remained  on  board  during  the  transit ;  and  on  reaching  Johnstown  the  sections 
of  the  lx>at  were  rejoined,  and  she  passed  W.  on  the  canal  to  the  Ohio. 

Beyond  Johnstown  the  line  passes  Laurel  Hill  in  the  gap  through 
which  the  Conemaugh  flows  ;  crosses  the  Ligonier  Valley;  and  traverses 
the  gorge  in  Chestnut  Ridge,  **  the  last  mt.  the  traveller,  going  West,  sees 
this  side  the  Rocky  Mts."    **  Laurel  Hill  and  Chestnut  Ridge  run  parallel 


led 

.1 


352      JlouU  50. 


LATROBE. 


I  1  ! 


\\"'i 


for  70  M.,  and  enclose  the  Ligonier  Valley,  the  orest-lines  of  the  2  mts. 
l)dng  always  almost  exactly  10  M.  apart."  Beyond  Lockport,  with  its  line 
conal-aqiieduct,  the  train  passes  Bolivar  and  sweeps  around  the  slopes  of 
Chestnut  Ridge;  traverses  a  great  tunnel  and  cutting;  and  reaches  Blairs- 
vUle  Intersection. 

The  Indiana  Branch  runs  N.  fi-nm  Blairsville  Int.  to  the  borough  of  Indiana, 
capital  of  Indiana  County,  in  19  M.  (70  uiin. ;  fare,  67c.)> 

Western  Penn.  Division. 

Stations.  —  Blairsville  itit. ;  Blairsville,  3  M. ;  Llvermcre,  ?;  Kelly's,  12; 
Baltzburg,  17;  Fairbanks,  AS;  Northwest,  22;  Roaring  Sinn,  i)  ;  Apollo,  27. 
Leachburg,  82:  AUefdomy  Junction,  37  (iutersfiction  of  Alh  ^'luniy  V;»lley  R.  II  )  ^ 
Freeport,  88  ;  Butler  Jun(!tion,  39  (branch  to  Butler,  60);  ^al 'ona,  •'■■'. ;  'i'u\^'niu\;i. 
45 ;  Spr^ngdale,  61 ;  Haruiersville,  65  ;  Faurviow,  67 ;  bharpsburg,  62  ;  AllegJifiiy 
City,  67. 

Blairsville  is  a  pleasant  village,  whose  chief  curiosity  is  a  bridge  with 

an  arch  of  295  ft.  span.    Tine  W.  Penn.  line  follows  the  C'onemaugh  River 

to  the  salt-works  at  Saltzburg,  where  the  Loyalhaunc  Creek  conies  in  (rora 

the  S.  E.,  and  the  confluent  stvcani  is  henoeft'^rtli  known  as  the  Kiski- 

tninetas.    Tlso  train  follows  the  1.  banft  of  the  nvor  throi!::^h  a  i^vi  ct  rural 

country  to  its  confluence  with  the  Allegheny  River,  near  *hich  the  W. 

Penn.  It.  B..  crosser  the  Allegheny  Valley  R.  R.  and  the  Allegheny  River. 

From  Butler  .3  laictiou  the  Butler  Extension  M.  R.  runs  21  M.  N.  W.  (IJ 

hrs. ;  fare,  iitk. )  to  the  thriving  borough  of  Butler,  the  capital  of  the 

county  of  ihe.  same  name.    It  is  prettily  situated,  on  high  ground,  and  is 

favored  with  a  broad  view  over  the  Conequenessing  Valley.    The  W. 

Penn.  train  runs  S.  W.  on  the  r.  bank  of  the  Allegheny  River,  and  passes 

Natnma  and  Tarentum,    On  the  opposite  shore  are  the  tracks  of  the 

Allegheny  Valley  R.  R.,  traversed  by  long  trains  of  tank-cars;  and  the 

line  passes  rapidly  down  through  the  manufacturing  suburbs  of  Pittsburgh 

and  stops  at  Allegheny  City. 


!  i 


The  main  line  runs  S.  W.  from  Blairsville  Intersection,  with  Chestnut 
Ridge  on  the  I.  Latrobe  (Huston  House)  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the 
Loyalhanna  Crer.k,  and  is  the  head-quarters  of  the  order  of  Benedictine 
monks  in  the  U.  S.  (There  are  nearly  300  American  Benedictines,  who 
are  devoted  to  educational  labors. )  St.  VincenVs  College  is  located  here, 
and  has  22  teachers  and  227  students,  with  a  library  of  6  000  volumes 
(conducted  by  the  Benedictines).  Oreensburg  is  the  capital  of  West- 
moreland County,  and  is  pleasantly  situated  on  far-viewing  heights.  It  is 
surrounded  by  a  pleasant  and  fertile  country  with  which  a  considerable 
trade  is  carried  on. 

In  the  Presbyterian  churchyard  is  a  monument  ovw  the  grave  of  Arthur  Si 
Clair,  grandson  of  the  Scottish  Earl  of  Roslyn,  and  brother-in-law  of  Gov.  Bow- 
doin  of  Mass. ;  an  officer  in  the  early  French  and  Indian  wars ;  commander  of  the 
N.  J.  militia  in  1776,  and  afterwards  of  Fort  Ticonderoga  (see  page  113).  He 
founded  Oncinnati,  and  named  it  in  honor  of  the  patrician  military  order  oi'  which 


i! 


■II  mmmXtiMLm        „m  —  ■Ki 


)f  the  2  mts. 
,  with  its  tine 
the  slopes  of 
aches  Blairs- 

;h  of  Indiana, 


;   Kelly's,  12] 

.)  ;  Apollo,   27  ; 

VnUey  R.  II  ), 

•■;:; ;  'i'liivjntiivi; 
62 ;  AUegJu-Jiy 

a  bridge  with 
emaugh  River 
conics  iu  Irora 
as  ihe  Ki. ski- 
ll a  t^uut  rural 

which  the  W. 
legheny  River. 
.  M.  N.  W.  (H 

capital  of  the 

gi'ound,  and  is 

lley.    The  W. 

ver,  and  passes 

tracks  of  the 

•cars ;  and  the 

s  of  Pittsburgh 


with  Chestnut 
tuated  on  the 
of  Benedictine 
[ledictines,  who 
is  located  here, 
6  000  volumes    _      _iu?=ir=^rnc — I^  11      II     JL    ^^i^^k.  ^"^L      ££,^    ik  mi 

tpitai  of  West-  I  nnQysHr4^r^Hr'^^  I    i      II 

heights.    It  is  _^ 

a  considerable   ■    L  ^Unrinr  ,i  , Jl  i    ill  fif      -ffffi'     ^"^'^^-^^^^^f  I         \  |P 


ve  of  Arthur  St 
aw  of  Gov.  Bow- 
omraander  of  the 
page  113).  He 
ry  order  of  whicli 


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tt,ii.  Att^kK^ViUvlUL-. -.....J.K^.  1, 1. 

t»U  MMtoMAM^fAaMiAir. — , -O.4.  F.  1. 


•  OU  TH 

pftTTtaunoN 


.-••^- 


J 


■^ 


■\ 


prrrsBUROH. 


MouU  60.     353 


Le  wu  an  officer.  In  1701  he  led  1,400  U.  8.  loldien  against  the  Indians  on  tM 
Miami,  but  was  defetiUxl  with  a  loss  of  tlOO  men  :  and  soiiiu  yeum  later,  retired  to 
a  lonely  cabin  on  (Jhestnut  Ridg'  vhore  he  ended  his  days  In  unmerited  iioveny 
and  obscurity. 


\ 


•vi 


f 


1       ;• 


The  S,  W.  Penn.  B.  R.  runs  24  M.  S.  from  Greensburg,  terminating  at 
Connellaville,  on  the  P.,  W.  k  B.  R.  R.  (Route  54).  The  Peun.  R.  R. 
train  runs  N.  W.  from  Greensburg  to  Penn  station,  which  is  2  M.  S.  of 
the  battle-ground  where  Col.  Bociuet  defeated  the  French  and  Indians. 
At  Brinton's  the  line  approaches  the  Monongahela  River,  on  whose  far- 
ther shore  occurred  Braddock's  <lefeat  (July  9,  1755). 

Oen.  Braddock  had  led  1 ,000  British  regulars  and  1,000  provincials  on  a  long  and 
arduous  march  from  Alexandria,  Va.,  to  attack  the  French  works  at  Fort  Du- 
quesne  ( Pittaburgh).  As  the  advanced  guard  crossed  the  Monongahela  and  ad- 
vanced unsusi)ectihgly  through  a  region  of  shallow  ravines,  it  was  suddenly  en- 
tiladcil  by  several  sharp  volleys  tvonx  an  unseen  foe.  The  disconcerted  vanguard 
fell  back  on  the  centre  and  conmiunicated  a  panic  to  the  army.  Braddock  strove 
for  a  hours  to  form  his  men  into  line  of  battle,  while  the  enemy  were  )>ouring  in  a 
deadly  fire  from  the  ravines  and  sheltered  positions  on  every  side.  Wa^ihiit^tuu's 
Virginians  checked  the  French  by  Itush-ilghting ;  but  the  close  itlatoous  of  the 
regulara  were  mowed  down  rapidly  ;  and  Braddock,  after  5  horses  were  shot 
under  him,  fell  with  a  mortal  wound  (from  one  of  his  own  men).  Htr  Peter  Hal- 
ket  was  killed,  Sir  John  St.  Clair  was  wounded,  and  the  army  broke  ranks  and 
fled,  hflvlng  lost  tt3  officers  and  714  men.  Washington  (then  a  colonel  of  provin- 
cials) was  the  senior  surviving  officer,  and  led  the  remnant  of  the  forces  back  to 
Virginia.  I 

Beyond  Wilkinshurg  the  line  enters  the  municipality  of  Pittsburgh,  and 
pas.ses  numerous  large  suburban  villages.  Near  Torrent'  are  extensive 
stock-yards  ;  f(>,ctories  and  furnaces  are  passed  in  continuous  lines  ;  broad 
networks  of  tracks  cluster  about  the  main-line  ;  the  air  grows  heavy 
and  smoke-laden,  and  the  train  enters  the  Union  Railroad  Station  at 


i ',. ' 


,    ':    »  ; 


4. 


■'■■isi/r"' 


Fittsbnrgh. 

Hotels.  —  •Monongahela  House,  on  Smithlield  St.,  $4  a  day ;  Central,  comer 
Sniithlleld  and  3d  Ave.,  !J3  a  day  ;  St.  Charles,  corner  Wood  St.  and  3d  Ave. ;  St. 
CUir,  Penn.  St.  In  the  railroad  station  is  the  entrance  to  the  •  Union  Depot  Ho- 
tel (^S.^O  a  day) ;  and  near  the  station  are  the  Bush  and  St.  James  Hotels  (Euro- 
pean plan).  ■«.  „  r^    . 

Beading-RoonM.— Mercantile  Library,  Penn  St.,  near  6th  ;  Y.  M.  C.  A., 
corner  Peun  and  (Jth  Sts.  ;  Church  Guild  rooms,  Penn  St  Post-Office,  comer  of 
5th  Ave.  and  Smithtleld  St. 

Horse-cars.  —  From  the  comer  of  Penn  and  6th  Sts.  to  the  Cemetery  and 
Sharpsburgh,  and  to  Allegheny  City,  Manchester,  and  Troy  Hill.  From  4tli  Ave., 
near  Market  St..  to  Oakland  and  B.  Liberty  ;  to  Centre  Ave.  and  Minersville  :  and 
to  Ornisby.  From  the  corner  of  Grant  and  Liberty  Sts.  to  Birmingham.  From 
5th  Ave.  and  Smithfield  St.  to  Allegheny  City  and  Pleasant  Valley.  Inclined 
planes  (6c.)  ascend  Mt.  Washington  from  Monongaliela,  and  Mt.  Oliver  from  Bir- 
mingham. ,   ^         „  ,    . 

Amusoments.  —  Music  and  drama  at  the  Pittsburgh  Opera-House  and  at 
the  Academy  of  Music  ;  varieties  at  the  American  and  Varieties  theatres  ;  lectures, 
etc. ,  at  Mercantile-Library  Hall  and  Masonic  Hall. 

Steamern.  —  On  the  Ohio  River  to  Portsmouth,  Zanesville,  Parkersbur^, 
Marietta,  Wheeling  (91  M.),  EvansviUe,  Nashville,  Cincinnati  (.$13  M.)  Louisville 
(482  M.),  Memphis,  Vicksburg,  and  New  Orleans.     On  the  Monongahela  River,  to 

W 


I 


854     MouU  60, 


PITTSBUROH. 


Morgantown  and  tntermediate  porta,  trI-wMklv.    On  the  AUegbfrijr  F.^cr  (for 
fhiight)  to  Oil  City.    Hteanitira  auo  run  semi-<iaUy  to  Brownavllle  and  <  H.  >avti. 

Pittsburgh,  one  of  the  chief  manufacturing  cities  of  the  UnitoU  States, 
is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Monongahela  and  Allegheny  Rivers. 
The  most  thickly  populated  quarter  is  built  on  an  alluvial  delta  near  the 
union  of  the  waters ;  and  populous  suburbs  extend  along  the  river  shores, 
with  abrupt  hills  rising  amphitheatrically  on  all  sides.  The  municipality 
includes  about  125,000  inhabitants,  having  annexed  a  large  territory  ad- 
jacent, in  1872.  The  wholesale  and  retail  trading  is  mostly  done  on 
and  about  Smithfield  St.,  5th  Ave.,  Penn  and  Liberty  Sts.  The  river- 
banks  are  lined  with  manufactories  and  steamboats,  and  the  hills  are 
being  rapidly  occupied  by  residences.  There  are  many  fine  view-points 
about  the  city;  but  it  is  very  rarely  that  a  prospect  of  any  magnitude 
can  be  gained,  owing  to  the  dense  pall  of  smoke  which  continually 
overhaggs  the  valley.  The  multitude  of  tall  chimneys  that  belch  forth 
heavy  clouds  of  smoke  from  fires  fed  by  bituminous  coal  overcasts  the 
city  with  a  murky  twilight,  such  as  is  frequently  seen  at  London  and 
Birmingham.  The  picturesque  site  of  Pittsburgh  is  best  seen  on  a  breezy 
Sunday.  The  city  (together  with  Allegheny)  has  22  banks,  10  daily  (3 
Qerman)  and  11  weekly  papers,  82  Masonic  societies,  45  lodges  of  Odd 
Fellows,  8  convents,  and  205  churches  (47  Meth.,  45  Pres.,  80  Catb.,  12 
Epis.,  11  Luth.,  and  10  Bapt.;  of  which  10  are  AfricaUi  16  Oerman,  4 
Welsh,  2  Hebrew,  and  1  Bohemian). 

The  *]Cttxiioipal  Hall  was  built  at  a  cost  of  $750,000.  It  is  at  the 
comer  of  Smithfield  and  Virgin  Sts.,  and  has  a  massive  central  tower  and 
granite  front.  Closely  adjoining  is  the  solid  and  substantial  Post-Office 
and  Custom,  House  building,  on  the  comer  of  the  brilliant  and  busy  5th 
Ave.  On  the  hill  to  the  E.  is  the  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  Paul,  a  large 
structure  with  2  lofty  twin-spires  and  a  dome  over  the  choir.  The  aisles 
are  double,  and  the  high  altar  is  adorned  with  a  large  painting  of  the 
Cmcifixion.  Near  the  Cathedral  is  the  *  Court  House,  lifted  high  above 
the  street  on  a  terrace  encased  in  masonry,  and  displaying  a  classic  portico 
adorned  with  columns.  St.  Peter's  CAurcA  (Epis.)  is  a. graceful  structure 
which  fronts  on  Grant  St.  *  Trinity  Church  (Epis.)  is  a  new  and  elegant 
edifice  on  6th,  near  Smithfield  St.  It  is  in  the  English  Gothic  style,  and 
contains  some  costly  stained  gloss.  Near  this  is  the  1st  Presbyterian 
Church,  with  a  lofty  fa9ade  flanked  by  towers;  and  with  its  quiet  pres- 
ence amid  the  centre  of  busy  traffic,  and  its  massive  yet  dingy  stone- 
work, it  reminds  one  of  the  ancient  London  city  churches.  Tlie  Mer- 
cantile Library  has  a  spacious  building  (costing  $250,000)  on  Penn. 
St.,  in  which  is  the  library-hall,  with  15,000  books  and  files  of  the 
latest  papers  and  magazines.  The  audience-hall  in  this  building  is 
the  largest  and  finest  in  the  city.    The  Western  University  is  near  the 


PITTSBURGH. 


Koute  60.     355 


Court  Honse,  and  has  14  initructora  and  296  itudents.  The  Pittsbunch 
Female  College  Ih  a  Methodist  institution  with  347  students.  Along  the 
Monongahela  front  of  the  city  are  the  landings  of  the  steamers,  a  large 
fleet  of  which  are  usually  moored  along  the  shelving  hank.  Many  tourists 
will  here  get  their  first  view  of  the  |)«culiar  vessels  which  are  used  on  the 
Western  rivers.  The  point  at  the  confluence  of  the  rivers  is  occupied  by 
the  West  Point  Boiler  Works,  and  thence  the  Ihtqueane  Way  runs  N.  E. 
along  the  Allegheny  River.  The  Way  is  lined  with  great  factories,  —  the 
Duiiuesne  Engine,  Globe  Plow,  Wayne  Iron  and  Steel,  Pittsburgh  Plow, 
and  other  works. 

The  densely  settled  S.  wards  are  nearly  separated  from  the  rural  wards 
liy  Htecp  hills,  on  which  are  fine  residences  and  public  buildings,  with  the 
City  High  School.  These  rural  wards  are  dotted  with  villages,  and  their 
river-shores  are  lined  with  factories.  They  are  traversed  by  3  horse- 
railroads  and  3  steam-railroads.  Beyond  Lawrenceville  (the  seat  of  the 
extensive  Allegheny  U.  S.  Arsenal)  is  the  Allegheny  Cemetery,  the  chief 
of  the  numerous  burying-grounds  about  Pittsburgh.  The  Western 
Fenxi*  Hospital  is  a  large  building  near  Ridge  St.  (12th  Ward) ;  the 
Mercy  Hospital  has  fine  houses  on  Stephenson  St. ;  the  Convent  of  the 
Sisters  of  Mercy  is  on  Webster  Avenue  (comer  of  Chatham),  and  is  the 
oldest  house  of  the  order  in  America.  The  Ursuline  Convent  and  Or- 
plmnage  has  spacious  buildings  K  of  the  High  School.  The  Alleglteny 
U.  8.  Arsenal  occupies  spacious  and  highly  ornamented  grounds  in  the 
N.  E.  part  of  the  city,  near  the  Allegheny  River,  and  has  lai-ge  clusters 
of  buildings  for  the  manufacture  of  military  armaments. 

The  South  Side  Boroughs  are  S.  of  the  Monongahela,  and  belong  to 
the  city.  Those  on  the  river  include  (from  K  to  W. )  Ormsby,  E.  Birming- 
ham, Birmingham,  S.  Pittsburgh,  Monongahela,  W.  Pittsburgh,  Temper- 
anceville,  and  Chartiers.  These  suburbs  are  dark,  dingy,  and  full  of 
activity,  scores  of  factories  being  arranged  along  the  river.  S.  of  this 
line  is  a  range  of  lofty  and  abrupt  heights,  on  which  is  another  tier  of 
villages  (St.  Clair,  Allentown,  Mt.  Washington,  and  Union),  which  are 
occupied  by  residences,  and  are  reached  by  inclined  planes.  A  short  and 
interesting  excursion  may  be  made  by  crossing  the  Suspension  Bridge, 
and  turning  to  the  r.  to  the  station  of  the  Mt.  Washington  Inclined 
Plane.  Cars  are  drawn  up  every  few  minutes  (6c. )  by  stationary  engines 
above,  the  track  rising  370  ft.  perpendicular  in  a  distance  of  640  ft. 
From  the  balcony  of  the  upper  station  is  afforded  (if  the  smoke  will 
allow)  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  cities,  hills,  and  rivers,  the  busy  activities 
of  the  valley,  the  converging  railroads,  and  the  many  bridges.  Birming- 
ham is  the  seat  of  the  Pittsburgh,  Tremont,  Flint,  and  other  glass-works, 
the  Monongahela,  Ormsby,  Birmingham,  and  other  iron-works,  rolling- 
mills,  foundries,  nail,  bolt,  tube,  and  steel  works.    On  the  heights  above 


it'! 


356      Houte  50. 


ALLEGHENY  CITY. 


■% 


m 
■m 

•Si'  'I 


are  seen  St.  Michael's  Church,  the  Passionist  Monastery  of  St.  Paul,  and 
the  Franciscan  €onvent.  From  the  foot  of  the  hill  (Mt.  Oliver),  at 
12th  St.,  an  inclined-plane  railway  ascends  250  ft.  perpendicular  in  a 
course  of  1,600  ft.  From  its  upper  terminus  another  broad  view  is 
gained,  and  a  yet  better  prospect  is  that  from  the  platform  of  the  monas- 
tery church. 

Allegheny  City  (population,  55,000)  is  N.  W.  of  Pittsburgh,  and 
U  connected  with  it  by  5  bridges  over  the  Allegheny  River  and  by  2 
horse-railroads.  There  are  many  factories  in  the  river-wards,  and  on  the 
hills  are  the  pleab»,nt  homes  of  Pittsburgh  merchants.  A  narrow  but 
verdant  parkway  extends  around  the  centre  of  the  city.  On  the  East 
Park  is  a  bronze  statue  of  an  American  artillerist,  erected  in  honor  of  the 
Hampton  Battery  of  Allegheny,  which  distinguished  ifself  in  the  Civil 
War.  The  City  Hall,  Allegheny  Library,  and  Market  are  on  the  square, 
at  the  crossing  of  Ohio  and  Federal  Sts.  Passing  W.  by  St.  Peter's 
Church  (a  new  and  costly  building,  with  a  bas-relief  of  the  Ascension 
over  the  door),  the  stern  and  frowning  walls  of  the  •  Western  State 
Penitentiary  are  seen  on  the  r.  This  building  was  erected  in  1818-26, 
and  is  of  gray  stone  in  castellated  architecture.  There  are  460  convicts. 
The  Penitentiary  is  open  for  visitors  from  2  to  4.30  p.m.  daily  (except 
Saturday  and  Sunday).  The  Park  is  adorned  with  a  monument  to  Baron 
Humboldt,  and  has  several  small  ponds.  It  is  traversed  on  sunken  grades 
by  the  P.,  Ft.  Wayne  &  Chicago  R.  R.  Ohio  and  Ridge  Sts.  run  W., 
and  have  some  fine  residences.  The  latter  passes  the  Orphan  Asylum 
and  the  plain  buildings  of  the  Western  Theological  Seminary  (Presby- 
terian ;  founded  1825),  which  has  5  professors,  70  students,  and  935 
alumni.  The  United  Pres.  Theol.  Seminary  is  also  in  Allegheny  City, 
and  has  3  professors,  36  students,  and  426  alumni.  On  the  outer  cres^^  of 
the  thin  and  lofty  ridge  which  runs  toward  the  Allegheny  River  is  a 
stately  *  monument  which  is  visible  from  all  parts  of  the  valley.  The 
column  (from  whose  minaret-li?<.e  upper  railing  the  cities  are  overlooked) 
is  surmounted  by  a  colossal  bronze  female  figure,  below  which  are  statues 
of  a  sailor,  infantryman,  cavalryman,  and  artillerist.  This  monument 
was  "  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  4,000  brave  men  of  Allegheny  County 
who  fell  in  the  great  struggle  to  maintain  the  integrity  of  our  Union." 
From  this  summit  the  Ohio  River  may  be  seen  for  many  miles,  and  to  the 
N.  is  the  Allegheny  Observatory.  Millvale,  Etna,  and  Sharpsburg  are 
factory-villages  on  the  Allegheny,  N.  E.  of  the  city.  In  tlie  W.  is  the 
U.  S.  Marine  Hospital  and  the  House  of  Refuge. 

In  the  winter  of  1753  George  Washington  was  sent  into  the  W.  by  the  Virginian 
authorities,  and  carefully  examined  the  site  of  Pittsburgh.  On  his  return  lie  ad- 
vised that  a  fort  should  be  built  there  to  check  the  advance  of  the  French  on  the 
Ohio,  and  in  Vlb'k  this  was  done.    Scarcely  was  it  finished  when  a  peremptory 


5L 


PITTSBURGH. 


Itoute  SI.      357 


Paul,  and 
Dliver),  at 
cular  in  a 
■d  view  is 
he  monas- 

argh,   and 
and  by  2 
bud  on  the 
larrow  but 
1  the  East 
onor  of  the 
1  the  Civil 
the  square, 
St.  Peter's 
Ascension 
^rn  State 
n  1818-26, 
0  convicts, 
ily  (except 
Lt  to  Baron 
iken  grades 
s.  run  W., 
an  Asylum 
ry  (Presby- 
and  935 
heny  City, 
ter  crest  of 
River  is  a 
lUey.    The 
averlooked) 
are  statues 
monument 
eny  Coxinty 
ur  Union." 
and  to  the 
'psburg  are 
W.  is  the 


lie  Virginirn 

eturn  he  ail- 

rencli  on  the 

peremptory 


Bunimons  was  sent  "  From  the  Commander-in-Chief  of  his  Most  Christian  MtvJ- 
esty's  troops,  now  on  the  Beautiful  River,  to  the  commander  of  those  of  Great 
Britain."  Contrecoeur  and  1,000  men  soon  appeared  before  the  fort  and  com- 
pelled its  surrender.  The  French  army  then  built  Fort  Duquesne,  and  soon 
afterward  defeated  Braddqck's  army  (see  page  353).  In  1758  a  Moravian  named 
Post  detached  many  of  the  Indians  from  the  French  interest,  and  later  in  the 
same  year  Major  Lewis  advanced  against  the  fort  with  800  men,  but  was  defeated 
under  its  walls  with  a  loss  of  270  killed  and  many  wounded.  A  few  weeks  later 
Gen.  Forbes  approached  with  a  large  force,  and  the  fort  was  blown  up  and  evacu- 
ated. It  was  rebuilt  by  the  English,  garrisoned  by  200  Virginians,  and  named 
Fort  Pitt.  In  1759  Gen.  Stanwix  built  a  large  pentagonal  fort  on  this  site,  sur- 
rounded by  a  ditch  and  defended  by  artillery  (costing  $  300,000).  It  was  vainly 
besieged  by  swarms  of  Indians  in  1763,  and  was  relieved  by  Boquet's  troops,  who 
only  reached  it  after  a  severe  battle,  in  which  they  lost  124  killed  and  hundreds 
wounded.  In  1764  a  town  was  laid  out  near  the  fort,  on  manor  lands  of  the  Penn 
family,  and  in  1770  it  had  20  log-houses. 

There  are  11  blast  furnaces  in  the  city,  and  about  500  large  factories.  The  re- 
ceipts in  1873  were  631,182  tons  of  iron ;  115,066,146  bushels  of  coal  \  34,230,500 
bushels  of  coke  ;  and  25,035,182  barrels  of  crude  petroleum.  There  are  about  60 
oil-refineries  here,  valued  at  $8,000,000,  and  liandling  immense  quantities  of 
petroleum  (for  which  Pittsburgh  is  the  chief  market  in  the  world).  The  coal- 
trade  amounts  to  over  $  10,000,000  a  year.  There  are  60  glass-factories  in  the  city, 
employing  5,000  men,  and  turning  out  S 4- 6,000,000  worth  of  glass  every  year. 
The  iron-works  are  of  enormous  extent,  —  including  60  foundries,  30  rolling-mills, 
and  6  steel  mills.  The  American  Iron- Works  alone  employ  2,500  men,  and  cover 
17  acres  of  ground.  There  are  8  copper-factories  and  5  brass-works.  The  Fort 
Pitt  Works  have  made  immense  numbers  of  cannon,  with  mountains  of  shot  and 
shell.    The  value  of  Pittsburgh's  manufactures  in  1874  was  ij;  109,693,205. 

Pittsburgh  to  the  West. 

1.  The  Pittsburgh,  Cincinnati  &  St.  Louis  R.  R.  ("  Pan  Handle  Route  ") 
runs  from  Pittsburgh  to  Steubenville  in  43  M. ;  to  Columbus,  193 ;  to 
Xenia,  248 ;  to  Cincinnati,  313;  to  Louisville,  423;  to  St.  Louis,  653. — 
To  Chicago,  607  M. ;  fare,  $  14. 

2.  The  Pittsburgh,  Fort  Wayne  &  Chicago  R.  R.  runs  to  Homewood, 
35  M.  (see  Route  52);  Canton,  102;  Crestline,  189;  Fort  Wayne,  320; 
and  Chicago,  458  (fare,  $  14). 

3.  The  Cleveland  &  Pittsburgh  R.  R.  runs  N.  W.  by  Rochester  and 
Alliance  to  Cleveland  in  150  M. 

5L  Pittsburgh  to  Titnsville  and  Buffido.  The  Fenn.  Oil 

Begions. 

By  the  Allegheny  Valley  R.  R.  and  the  Buffalo,  Corry  &  Pittsburgh  R.  R.  in  13- 
14  hrs.  The  line  ascends  the  picturesque  Allegheny  Valley  for  130  M.,  passing 
the  great  works  of  the  petroleum  wells  and  tanks.  Fares,  Pittsburgh  to  Kitta* 
ning,  $1.55 ;  to  Brady's  Bend,  !$2.40  ;  to  Oil  City,  $4.60. 

Stations.  —  Pittsburgh ;  McCandless,  3  M. ;  Sharosburg,  4 ;  Brilliant,  6 ;  Ire- 
land, 7  ;  Armstrong,  9;  Verona,  10 ;  Edgewater,  11;  Hulton,  12;  Logan's  Ferry, 
16;  Parnassus,  17;  Arnold's,  19;  Tarentum,  20;  Cliartiers,  22;  Soda  Works,  27; 
W.  Penn.  Junction,  29  ;  White  Rock,  33 ;  Kelly's,  35  ;  Rosston,  39  ;  Kittaning,  44  ; 
Cowanshannock,  48  ;  Pine  Creek,  49  ;  Mahoning,  55  ;  Red  Bank,  64 ;  Phillips- 
burg,  66;  Brady's  Bend,  68  ;  Catflsli,  71;  Parkers,  8-2;  Foxbiirg.  85;  Enilenton, 
89;  Scrubgrass,  106  ;  Foster,  115;  Franklin,  123  ;  Oil  Citj',  128  ;  Rouseville,  132  ; 
Petroleum  Centre,  135;  Titusville,  146;  Centreville,  157;  Corry,  174;  Buffalo, 
Corry  &  Pittsburgh  R.  R.  —Corry  Junction,  185;  Clymer,  188  ;  Panama,  195;  Slier- 
man,  199;  MayvUle,  205;  Prospect,  211 ;  Brocton,  219;  Butfalo,  268. 


ti 


'11 


V '  4 

'V  c4 


358     HouU  61. 


KITTANING. 


11      ':\ 


ifll 


The  train  leaves  the.  Union  Depot  at  Pittsburgh  and  runs  ont  through 
miles  of  factories  and  works,  drawn  up  in  dark  lines  along  the  Allegheny 
Biver.  Tlie  Allegheny  U.  S.  Arsenal  grounds  are  crossed,  and  at  Sharpg- 
burg  station  a  bridge  leads  over  the  river  to  Sharpsburg,  the  seat  of 
great  iron-works.  The  track  sweeps  around  by  Brilliant,  which  is  under 
Brilliant  Hill,  and  follows  the  river  close  at  hand  around  a  succession  of 
broad  bends,  with  a  general  direction  to  the  N.  E.  The  scenery  is  bold 
and  pleasing,  the  broad  river  flowing  freely  between  high  hills.  The 
river- villages  are  small  and  uncomely.  At  about  30  M .  from  Pittsburgh 
the  train  intersects  the  W.  Penn.  R.  R.  and  crosses  the  Kiskirainetas 
River.  Beyond  the  busy  village  of  Freeport  the  line  passes  the  Wliite 
Rock  Eddy  and  reaches  Kittaning  {Reynolds  House  ;  Wilson),  the  capi- 
tal of  Armstrong  County.  This  borough  has  about  2,000  inhabitants,  and 
is  in  a  prolific  coal  and  limestone  region,  from  whose  mines  its  furnaces 
are  fed.  Kittaning  holds  tlie  site  and  name  of  an  Indian  town  wliich  was 
attacked  by  Armstrong  and  300  men,  at  dawn  on  Aug.  8,  1757.  The  In- 
dians refused  to  surrender,  and  were  killed  in  detail,  while  the  town  was 
set  on  fire  and  destroyed.  The  train  runs  N.  to  a  long  bend  near  which 
the  Mahoning  Creek  is  crossed  at  its  confluence  with  the  Allegheny. 

From  Red  Bar'-  the  Eastern  Extension  R.  R.  is  being  built  across  Jefferson, 
Clearfield,  and  E"  -  unties  to  Driftwood,  on  the  Phila.  &  Erie  R.  R.  It  is  now 
completed  to  Brc<-  ivvlUe  (American  House ;  Franklin),  the  capital  of  Jefferson 
County,  and  to  the  hamlet  of  Reynoldsville.  Brookville  is  1,300  ft.  above  the  sea, 
in  a  vast  pine-forest,  whose  trees  are  cut  and  sawed  here,  and  are  rafted  to  the 
Allegheny  River.  , 

The  train  now  passes  around  a  bend  in  the  river,  which  almost  makes  a 
circle,  and  reaches  Brady's  Bend  {Central  House),  an  important  town 
situated  on  a  great  curve  of  the  Allegheny  River.  It  was  commenced 
late  in  1869,  and  now  has  5,000  inhabitants,  6  churches,  and  2  papers. 
The  Brady's  Bend  Iron- Works  employ  about  1,200  men  in  making  rails; 
and  large  forces  are  busied  in  the  trans-shipment  of  oil. 

The  Modoc  Oll.Distrlct  is  near  Brady's  Bend,  where  its  oil  is  shipped.  It 
is  of  recent  development,  and  the  Karns  City  R.  R.  is  to  cross  it.  Greece  City 
was  founded  in  Oct.,  1872,  at  the  Morrison  Well,  which  yielded  500  barrels  a  day. 
It  has  1,200  inhabitants,,  2  banks,  and  5  hotels.  Modoc  City  h&s  1,000  inhabi- 
tants, and  13  wells  which  produce  40,000  barrels  a  day.  Stages  run  from  Brady's 
Bend  and  Parker  City  to  Falrvievir  (Adams  House),  which  is  on  a  high  hill  over- 
looking the  oleaginous  "  cities ''  of  Karns  and  Petrolia. 

The  train  runs  on  to  Parker's  Landing  (Phillips  Home ;  Wallace), 
and  the  derricks  of  tlie  oil-wells  are  seen  from  time  to  time,  remote  ou 
the  hills  or  close  to  the  track ;  sometimes  in  operation,  but  oftener  de- 
serted. Crossing  tlie  Clarion  River,  Emlentown  is  passed  and  the  line  is 
followed  around  great  loops  of  the  river.  At  the  Gregory  House  at 
Scrubgrass  station  is  a  dining-room  for  passengers  on  the  through  trains. 
Franklin  (*  ExcMnge ;  National ;  U.  S.)  is  now  seen  on  the  W.  shore, 
and  is  a  well-built  city  of  about  5,000  inhabitants,  with  2  papers,  2  banks, 


OIL  CITY. 


EmUeSl.      359 


throxigTi 
llegheny 
Sharps- 
seat  of 
is  under 
3Ssion  of 
r  is  bold 
Is.    The 
ttsburgh 
iminetas 
le  White 
the  capi- 
Bints,  aud 
furnaces 
hich  was 
The  In- 
;own  was 
lar  which 
ny. 

Jefferson, 
It  is  now 
'  Jefferson 
re  the  sea, 
;ed  to  the 

;  makes  a 

ant  town 
mmenced 
papers, 
ing  rails ; 

jped.  It 
'Jreece  City 
rels  a  day. 
00  inhabi- 
m  Brady's 

hill  over- 

Wallace), 
emote  on 
tener  de- 
le  line  is 
louse  at 
;h  trains. 
N.  shore, 
2  banks, 


and  3  oil-refineries.  It  is  the  capital  of  Venango  County,  and  occupies 
the  site  of  the  French  Fort  Venango,  on  the  ridge  at  the  confluence  of 
French  Creek  and  tlie  Allegheny  River. 

Fort  Venango  was  built  here  in  1753,  as  one  of  the  great  chain  of  French  mili- 
tary posts  which  hemmed  in  the  American  colonies.  700  French  troops  and  1,000 
Indian  auxiliaries  were  gathered  here  just  before  the  Conquest  of  Canada  (1759). 
After  that  event  it  was  held  by  the  Aniericans,  but  was  taken  in  1763  and  the 
garrison  was  massacred  to  a  man,  —  the  commandant  being  slowly  roasted  to 
death  through  several  days. 

Steamers  run  from  Franklin  to  Pittsburgh,  and  a  branch  of  the  A.  k 
G.  W.  R.  R.  ascends  the  valley  of  French  Creek  to  Meadville  (see  page 
237).  From  Franklin  the  train  runs  N.  E.  by  the  rapid  river  to  Oil  City, 
which  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the  W.  shore. 

Oil  City  {Duncan  House;  Petroleitm  House)  is  located  at  the  con- 
fluence of  Oil  Creek  on  the  Allegheny  River.  It  was  founded  in  1860, 
organized  in  1862,  destroyed  by  flood  in  1865,  destroyed  by  fire  (loss, 
$  1,000,000)  in  1866,  and  incorporated  as  a  city  in  1871.  There  are  2,276 
inhabitants,  with  1  daily  paper,  2  banks,  and  8  religious  societies.  It  is 
an  important  railroad  centre,  and  is  the  head-quarters  of  the  petroteura 
trade  (in  which  $25,000,000  are  invested).  The  wells  in  the  vicinity  pro- 
duce 600  barrels  daily,  and  2,000,000  barrels  are  shipped  hence  yearly. 
There  are  iron  tanks  h^re  for  500,000  barrels,  connected  with  lines  of 
tubing  by  which  the  oil  is  drawn  out  into  the  tank-cars  and  river  steam- 
ers. "Within  a  very  small  area  the  tourist  may  see  all  the  processes. con- 
nected with  this  traffic,  —  boring,  pumping,  refining,  barrelling,  gauging, 
and  shipment.  Tlie  air  is  filled  with  the  strong  odor  of  petroleum,  and  the 
lower  streets  seem  to  be  saturated  with  the  precious  fiuid.  The  narrow 
space  along  the  river  is  occupied  by  the  railroads  and  business  houses,  and 
above  this  is  a  tall  bluff  which  is  occupied  by  res-l;;nces. 

The  Oil  Creek  dt  Allegheny  River  R.  R.  runs  N  E.  fTon.  jil  City  to  Irvineton,  on 
the  Phila.  &  Erie  R.  R.  (50  M.).  From  the  hamlet  of  OknpoHs  a  branch  R.  R.  runs 
7  M.  N.  E.  to  Plthole  City,  The  U.  S.  Well  was  opened  here  in  the  winter  of 
1864-65,  and  yielded  7,000  barrels  a  day.  Great  multitudas  flocked  hitherward, 
and  within  six  months  there  arose  in  the  wilderness  a  city  of  J  5,000  inhabitants, 
with  2  theatres  and  an  academy  of  music,  a  daii.  ,  iper,  antl  72  hotels  and  saloons. 
Now  but  9  families  live  in  the  place  ;  and  the  great  hotel,  whicli  cost  .S  31,000,  was 
sold  in  the  winter  of  1873  -  74  for  S 100.  The  AUeghf-ny  River  is  c-losely  followed 
by  the  train  through  a  rugged  and  thinly  populated  country ;  passing  Rouseville 
(Rathbun  House),  in  a  forest  of  abandoned  derricks ;  Tionesta ;  and  TidiouU 
(Shaw  House),  with  its  iron-works,    Irvlnetoii,  see  Route  55. 

The  Buffalo  train  runs  N.  from  Oil  City  up  the  valley  of  Oil  Creek, 
passing  great  lines  of  derricks,  tanks,  and  the  rude  shanties  of  the  oil  men. 
Occasionally  the  pumping-engines  are  seen  at  Avork;  but  in  ihe  majority 
of  cases  the  derricks  are  abandoned,  and  stand  as  monuments  over  de- 
parted ho]»es.  Petroleum  Centre  (Central  House)  is  a  village  of  1,500  in- 
habitants; beyond  which  the  train  reaches  Titusville  (*  Parshall  House^ 
$3  a  day;  Mansion  House,  $2),   the    chief   city  in  the  Pennsylvania 


'■m 


360     Haute  51. 


TITUSVILLR 


El 


oil  district.  It  is  agreeably  situated  in  the  valley  of  Oil  Creek,  which  is 
here  1  M.  wide,  and  is  surrounded  by  prominent  hills.  By  ascending  the 
path  near  Church  Run,  a  point  is  reached  whence  the  valley  may  be  over- 
looked. The  streets  are  broad  and  straight,  and  are  lined  with  bright  and 
spick-and-span  wooden  houses,  each  with  its  bit  of  garden-land.  There 
are  8,630  inhabitants,  with  2  daily  papers,  4  banks,  and  9  churches.  The 
business  street  is  lined  with  new  brick  blocks,  and  the  environs  contain 
many  oil-wells  and  refineries.  There  are  3  large  iron-works,  chiefly  en- 
gaged in  mftking  engines,  tubing,  and  tanks. 

The  petroleum  business  had  its  origin  at  Titusville.  This  oil  was  formerly 
prized  by  the  Seneca  Indians  on  account  of  its  supposed  medicinal  properties, 
and  a  tract  on  Oil  Creek  (N.  Y.)  was  reserved  by  them  at  the  final  sale  of  their 
domains.  The  settlers  in  this  district  were  accustomed  to  collect  the  oil  by  skim- 
ming it  from  the  water  in  shallow  vats  and  trenches,  until  the  arrival  of  Col. 
Drake,  in  1859.  This  gentleman  bored  the  first  well  (1  M.  S.  of  Titusville),  and  on 
removing  the  tools  a  copious  flow  of  gas  and  oil  commenced.  At  that  time  Titus- 
ville had  300  inhabitants ;  at  present  its  refineries  are  only  third  to  those  of 
Cleveland  and  Pittsburgh.  Many  wells  were  sunk  in  the  vicinity  soon  after,  and 
with  varying  success  ;  but  the  product  Irom  the  whole  district  was  so  great  that 
by  1861  petroleum  had  fallen  to  25c.  a  barrel.  The  Empire  Well  yielded  2,500 
barrels  daily,  and  the  Phillips  Well  gave  3,940  barrels.  In  1863  the  production 
slackened,  and  the  prices  rose  proportionately.  During  this  period  vast  fortunes 
were  made  rapidly,  and  were  afterwards  scattered  with  almost  equal  speed.  In 
the  first  12  years  of  "the  develojyment "  there  were  taken  from  this  district 
42,000,000  barrels  of  oil,  valued  at  $  163,000,000.  This  territory  is  about  400  square 
miles  in  extent,  and  contains  4,000  wells,  with  new  ones  going  down  monthly  (in 
prosperous  times).  5,000  steam-engines  are  employed,  and  there  are  now  in  use 
8,000  M.  of  iron-pipe  and  25,000  M.  of  drilling  cable.  4  first-class  railroads  have 
been*built  to  carry  out  this  vast  production  ;  and  the  fleets  of  the  oil-exporters 
are  found  on  every  sea.  The  foreign  trade  has  increased  rapidly,  and  the  10,000,000 
gallons  of  the  export  in  1862  were  increased  to  55,000.000  gallons  in  1871. 

The  Union  &  'ntusvilU  R.  R.  runs  25  M.  N.  W.  from  Titusville  to  Union  City, 
on  the  Phila.  &  Erie  and  the  Atlantic  &  Great  Western  R.  Rs.  The  Dunkirk, 
Allegheny  Valley  &  Pittsburgh  R.  R.  runs  from  Titusville  91  M.  N.  to  Dunkirk.  At 
first  it  runs  N.  E.  20  M.  through  an  unpopulated  region ;  then  turns  E.  on  the 
line  of  the  Phila.  &  Erie  R.  R.,  and  passes  from  Garland  to  Warren ;  and  there  di- 
verges to  the  N.  and  follows  the  Conewago  River  into  New  York,  where  it  runs 
through  the  Chautauque  County  hills  for  42  M.  ;  latterly  passing  the  brisk  village 
of  Fredonia,  and  reaching  Dunkirk  (see  page  231). 


The  Buffalo  train  runs  N.  from  Titusville,  and  after  passing  several  ob- 
scure villages  of  Cravirford  County,  crosses  the  State  Road  near  Spartans- 
burg,  and  enters  Erie  County,  advancing  to  Corry,  where  the  P.  &  E.  R. 
R.  and  the  A.  &  G.  W.  R.  R.  are  intersected. 

Corry  {Domner  House,  comfortable  ;  St.  Nicholas)  is  a  new  city,  which 
derives  its  origin  and  importance  from  the  location  at  the  entrance  to  the 
"  Oildorado,"  and  from  the  intersection  here  of  several  railroads.  The 
streets  are  broad  and  straight,  but  the  houses  are  generally  inferior.  The 
site  of  Corry  was  covered  by  a  forest  until  June,  1861,  when  the  Atlantic 
&  Great  Western  R.  R.  crossed  the  Phila.  &  Erie  R.  R,  here,  and  a  small 
board-shanty  was  put  up  at  the  junction.  Later  in  the  year  the  Downer 
Oil  Co.  (of  Boston)  sent  out  an  agent  to  locate  an  oil  refinery.   He  chose  this 


ECONOMY. 


Jiouu  Si.     361 


little  flag-crossing  (named  Corry  after  a  neighboring  farmer),  and  bought 
60  acres  of  land.  The  great  Downer  Oil  Works  were  then  pnt  up,  other 
enterprises  followed,  and  a  rapid  growth  began  after  the  railroad  was 
built  iiito  the  oil  regions.  In  1866  Corry  became  a  city,  and  it  now  has 
6,809  inhabitants  (census  of  1870),  76  streets,  2  daily  papers,  2  banks,  and 
8  churches. 

The  line  (lo.'»lly  known  as  *'  The  Cross-Cut ")  runs  N.  from  Corry  into 
N.  Y.  State,  wlere  it  crosses  the  whole  extent  of  Chautauqua  County. 
MayvUle  is  beautifully  situated  at  the  head  of  Chautauqua  Lake  (see 
page  237) ;  and  Brocton  is  on  the  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  near  the  Harris 
Community,  a  singular  religious  colony  which  settled  here  in  1868.  They 
are  semi-Swedenborgian  in  their  views,  but  are  very  reticent  about  their 
doctrines  of  "  the  new  life."  They  own  2,000  acres,  on  which  are  prolific 
vineyards.  Salem-on-Erie  is  a  pretty  hamlet  in  this  vicinity.  Passen- 
gers for  Buffalo  change  cars  at  Brocton,  and  ride  to  their  destination  on 
the  Lake  Shore  &  M.  S.  B.  B.  (see  page  236). 

52.  Pittsburgh  to  Eria 

By  the  Pittsburgh,  Fort  Wayne  &  Chicago  R.  R.,  the  New  Castle  Branch,  the 
Erie  &  Pittsburgh  R.  R.,  and  the  Lake  Shore  &  M.  S.  R.  R.  Through  trains  from 
Pittsburgli  to  Erie  in  7-8  hrs. 

Stations.  —  Pittsburgh  ;  Allegheny  City,  1  M. ;  Manchester ;  Dixmont ;  Se- 
wickley,  13  ;  Economy,  18  ;  Baden,  21 :  Freedom,  24 ;  Rochester,  26 ;  New  Brighton, 
29;  Honiewood,  35;  Clinton,  38;  Moravia,  44;  Lawrence  Junction,  47  ;  New- 
Castle,  50.  E.  (t  P.  R.  R.  —  Harbor  Bridge,  54  ;  Pulaski,  61 ;  Middlesex,  66  ; 
Wheatland,  68 ;  Sharon,  71 ;  Sharpsville,  74 ;  Clarksville,  77  :  A.  &  G.  W.  Cross- 
ing, 83  ;  Shenango,  84 ;  Greenville,  85  ;  Jamestown,  92 ;  Kasson's,  99 ;  Espy ville, 
101 ;  Linesville,  105 ;  Summit,  109 ;  Conneautville,  113 ;  Spring,  116 ;  Albion, 
122  ;  Crosses,  128  ;  Girard,  133  ;  Fairview,  137  ;  Swainville,  140;  Erie,  148. 

The  train  departs  from  the  Union  Bailroad  Depot  in  Pittsburgh,  and 
crosses  the  Allegheny  Biver  with  the  Hand  Street  and  Allegheny  Bridges 
on  the  1.,  and  the  Mechanics'  Bridge  on  the  r.  Traversing  the  streets  of 
Allegheny  City,  the  Park  and  the  Western  Penitentiary  are  seen  on  the 
r.,  and  on  the  1.  is  the  lofty  soldiers'  monument.  Beyond  the  municipal 
limits  the  Ohio  Biver  is  approached,  and  the  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital  is 
seen  on  the .  1.  The  line  now  runs  N.  W.  through  a  series  of  suburban 
villages  which  are  dependent  on  Pittsburgh,  with  the  Ohio  on  the  1.,  and 
the  long  Neville's  Island.  At  Economy  is  the  large  village  which  was 
founded  in  1825  by  the  German  Harmonites.  The  priest  and  patriarch  of 
this  sect  was  George  Bapp,  who  claimed  to  have  received  a  Divine  lega- 
tion to  restore  the  Christian  Church  to  its  pristine  purity  and  simplicity. 
He  led  his  proselytes  from  Germany  to  America,  and  foimded  a  flourish- 
ing colony  at  Economy,  The  principle  of  a  community  of  property  was 
the  chief  secular  characteristic,  and  the  colony  soon  increased  to  800  per- 
sons, with  large  estates  and  manufactories.  Tlie  village  was  widely  famed 
for  its  singulai'  neatness,  simplicity,  and  comfort;  and  the  fine  and  lus- 

J6. 


I'- 
1-. 


362     RmteSt 


NEW  CASTLE. 


1 '  1 


trons  silks  which  were  made  here  were  highly  prized  in  the  East.    The 

borough  now  has  1,324  inhabitants.    The  train  runs  W.  from  Economy  to 

Rochester  (Pavilion;  Doncaster  House),  a  busy  town  it  the  confluence  of 

the  Ohio  and  Beaver  Rivers. 

The  Cleveland  £  Pittsburgh  R.  R.  diverges  here  and  follows  the  r.  bank  of  the 
Ohio  River,  running  to  Bellaire  (Wheeling),  68  M.  S.  W.,  and  to  Cleveland,  124  M. 
1  M.  S.  W.  of  Rochester  it  passes  Beaver  (National  Hotel),  the  capital  of  Beaver 
County,  a  borough  of  1,120  inhabitants,  situated  on  a  fertile  intervale  near  the 
Ohio.  The  Frankfort  Springs  are  22  M.  3.  of  this  point,  and  are  locally  famed  as 
remedies  for  dyspepsia,  rheumatism,  and  cutaneous  diseases.  The  Cave  and  the 
Leiper  Springs  are  the  most  important,  and  contain  carbonates  of  iron  and  mag- 
nesia, muriate  of  soda,  and  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  The  C  &  P.  train  passes  on 
from  Beaver  to  IVellsville  (Whitacre  House),  where  the  road  forks,  one  division 
running  N.  W.  to  Cleveland  (102  M.),  the  other  running  8.  to  Bellaire  (46  M.X 

\  The  Erie  train  now  turns  N.  up  the  Beaver  River,  and  passes  the  popu- 
lous boroughs  of  New  Brighton  (Keystone  House),  and  Beaver  Falls,  de- 
vo!  od  to  manufacturing  and  situated  at  the  falls  on  Beaver  River,  where 
thiat  stieam  descends  75  ft.  in  a  succession  of  short  pitches  between  rocky 

aks.  At  Homewood  the  Pittsburgh,  Fort  Wayne  &  Chicago  R.  R. 
Uiverges  to  the  1.,  and  enters  Ohio  about  15  M.  W. ;  and  at  Lavrrence 
J'-ictinn  the  Ashtabula,  Youngstown  &  Pittsburgh  R.  R.  turas  off  to  the 
IT.  W.  New  Castle  is  a  city  of  12,000  inhabitants,  with  14  churches,  4 
j>aiiK8,  4  weekly  papers,  and  considerable  manufactories,  especially  of 
iron  and  glass.  It  is  favorably  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Shenango 
River  and  Neshanock  Creek,  and  is  the  capital  of  ILawrence  County. 

At  New  Castle  the  train  passes  on  to  the  rails  of  the  Erie  &  Pittsburgh 
R.  R.,  and  runs  N.  W.  up  the  valley  of  the  Shenango  River.  At  Sharon 
(Shenango  Hotel ;  Hanson)  the  line  approaches  within  1  M.  of  the  Ohio 
line ;  and  the  Mahoning  Division  of  the  Atlantic  &  Great  Western  Rail- 
way runs  thence  N.  W.  to  Cleveland  (80  M.).  Sharon  has  4,221  inhabi- 
tants, and  is  aigaged  in  coal  business  and  the  iron  manufacture.  The 
line  now  runs  N.  E.  and  approaches  the  Atlantic  &  Great  Western  Rail- 
way (see  page  238),  an«J  beyond  the  transfer  and  crossing  points  it  reaches 
the  villages  of  Sfienango  and  Oreenville. 

Tlie  SJienango  &  Allegheny  R.  R.  runs  33  M.  S.  E.  from  Greenville  to  Harrisville, 
passing  the  pleasant  rural  village  of  Mercer,  the  capital  of  Mercer  County, 
The  '^rarMin  Division  of  the  Lake  Shore  &  M.  W.  R.  xi.  extends  from  Ashtabula 
to  Oil  City  (50  M.),  and  crow'  «  the  \    jsent  route  at  Jamestown. 

Conneaxitville  (Holman  Hoiise)  is  a  villa '^  of  about  1,000  inhabitants, 
with  5  churches  and  a  w*i  kly  paper.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  rich  agri- 
cultural country,  and  is  a  3hipping-point  for  dairy-products.  The  village 
is  2  M.  E,  of  the  station,  and  8-9  M.  S.  E.  is  Conneaut  Lake  (see  page 
238).  The  train  runs  due  N.  to  Lake  Erie,  where  it  turns  to  the  N.  E. 
on  the  line  of  the  Lake  Shore  &>  M.  S.  R.  R.,  and  soon  reaches  the  city 
of  Erie  (see  Route  55). 


STEUBBNVILLE. 


Route  S3.      363 


The 
omyto 
nee  of 

:  of  the 
,  124  M. 
!  Beaver 
lear  the 
imed  as 
and  the 
ad  mag- 
asses  on 
division 
M.). 

le  popu- 
allSy  de- 
p,  where 
m  rocky 
J  R.  R. 
Mwrence 
ff  to  the 
arches,  4 
dally  of 
Chenango 

^ty. 

ittsburgh 
;  Sharon 
the  Ohio 
em  Rail- 
inhahi- 
re.  The 
em  Rail- 
t  reaches 

Tarrisvillet 
|r  County, 
Lshtabulu 

labitants, 
fich  ^- 
16  village 
|(see  page 
Ihe  N.  E. 
the  city 


0a  Fittsbnrg^h  to  Wheeling. 

By  the  Chartiers  R.  R.  and  the  Hempflcld  R.  R.  These  lines  meet  at  Washings 
ton,'  but  do  not  make  connections ;  and  the  traveller  by  this  route  is  obliged  to 
wait  there  several  hours. 

Hi Ationa,  — Chartiers  R.  R. — Pittsburgh;  Mansfield,  8;  Leasdale,  0;  Wood- 
ville,  10;  Bridgeville,  12;  Boyce's,  15;  Hill's,  17;  Canonsburg,  22;  Ewing's 
Mills,  28;  Cook's,  28;  Washington,  31.  Hempfield  R.  R.  (Wlieeling,  Pittsburgh 
&  Baltimore  Division  of  the  Bait.  &  Ohio  R.  R.).  —  Chartiers,  35  ;  Taylorstown. 
88 ;  Claysville,  42  ;  Vienna,  45  ;  W.  Alexander,  47  ;  Valley  Grove,  51 ;  Point 
Mills,  53 ;  Triadelphia,  57 ;  Carbon,  59  ;  Mt.  De  Chantal,  61 ;  WheeLmg,  e/2. 

The  "Pan-Haudle  Route"  to  the  W.  leaves  Pittsburgh  and  crosses 
the  Monongahela  River,  passing  the  factories  of  the  lower  South  Side 
Boroughs.  Beyond  the  small  villages  of  Allegheny  and  Washington 
Counties,  it  crosses  W.  Virginia  and  enters  the  State  of  Ohio,  and  at  43 
M.  from  Pittsburgh  reaches  Steubenville  (United  States  Hotel),  the 
capital  of  Jefferson  County.  It  is  finely  situated  on  high  ground  on 
the  r.  bank  of  the  Ohio  River,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  fmitful  country. 
There  are  8,107  inhabitants,  with  12  churches,  2  banks,  a  daily  and 
several  weekly  papers,  and  large  manufactories,  which  are  supplied  with 
fuel  from  the  coal-ndnes  in  the  vicinity. 


The  Cliartiers  R.  R.  crosses  the  Monongahela  River  at  Pittsburgh, 
diverges  from  the  Pan-Handle  Route  at  Mansfield^  and  follows  the 
Chartiers  Creek  to  the  S.  W.  for  many  miles.  At  Canonsburg  is  the 
Jetferson  Tlieological  Seminary  of  the  Presbyterian  Church,  occupying 
the  curious  old  stone  buildings  of  the  Jefferson  College,  which  was 
founded  here  in  1773,  and  held  its  first  academic  sessions  in  a  log-cabin. 
Washington  is  next  reached,  and  occupies  a  pleasant  situation  on  high 
ground  on  the  old  National  Road.  It  is  a  prosperous  borough  of  nearly 
4,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  capital  of  Washington  County.  Washing- 
ton and  Jefferson  College  is  located  here,  and  is  under  the  care  of  the 
Presbyterian  Church.  This  institution  has  10  professors  and  118  stu- 
dents, and  since  its  foundation,  in  1806,  has  graduated  the  large  number 
(for  a  rural  college)  of  3,000  men.  The  fertile  county  of  Washington  is 
devoted  to  grain  and  pasturj^e,  and  was  settled  by  Scotch- Irish  Presby- 
terians, a  virtuous  and  resolute  class  of  men  who  have  left  to  their 
descendants  the  habits  and  creeds  of  the  old  land. 

At  Washington  the  traveller  leaves  the  Chartiers  R.  R.,  and  takes  the 
train  on  the  Wheeling,  Pittsburgh  and  Baltimore  Division  (Hempfield 
R.  R. )  of  the  Bait.  &  Ohio  R.  R.  The  line  runs  S.  W.  through  a  hilly 
region,  traversing  several  tunnels,  and  following  the  line  of  the  old 
National  Road.  Beyond  W.  Alexandria  it  enters  the  State  of  W. 
Virginia,  and  soon  reaches  Wheeling  (see  Route  65). 


■•■.till 


■i 


I 


''  1  t 


364      lioute54.  CONNELLSVILLE. 

M.  Fittebnrgli  to  Gnmberland. 

The  Connellsville  Route. 

By  the  PittsbuTgh,  Washington  &  Baltimore  R.  R.,  which  runs  through  to 
Washington  in  13  - 14  hrs,,  and  to  Baltimore  in  15^-16  hrs.  Fores,  —  Pittsburgh 
to  Connellsville,  $2  ;  to  Confluence,  8^.05 ;  to  Cumberland,  $  6.20. 

Stations.  —  Pittsburgh ;  8oho,  2 ;  Laughlin's,  8  ;  Hazelwood,  4 ;  Olenwood,  5 ; 
Brown's,  0 ;  Mills',  9  ;  Braddock's,  10 ;  Port  Perry,  11 ;  Saltsbu»-g,  12  ;  Riverton, 
14 ;  McKeesport,  15  ;  Long  Run,  17 ;  Osceola,  20 ;  Coultersville,  22 ;  Guffey's,  24 ; 
Moore's,  28 ;  Amieville,  30 ;  W.  Newton,  33  ;  Port  Royal,  37 ;  Jacob's  Creek,  40  ; 
Oakdale,  49;  Laurel  Run,  50 ;  Sedgwick,  63  ;  Broad  Ford  Junction,  55  (branch  to 
Mt.  Pleasant,  65)  ;  Connellsville,  57  (branch  to  Uniontown,  71)  ;  Sand  Works,  60  : 
Indian  Creek,  65  ;  Stewarton,  69;  Ohio  Pyle,  74  ;  Egypt,  79  ;  Confluence,  84  :  Ur- 
s'.na,  86 ;  Fort  Hill  Siding,  89 ;  Forge  Bridge,  94  ;  Cassellnian,  96  ;  Mineral  Point 
Junction,  101 ;  Garrett's,  108 ;  Voder's,  109  ;  Meyer's  Mills,  113  ;  Sand  Patch,  116; 
Bowman's,  120;  Glencoe,  126  ;  Fairhope,  130  ;  Bridgeport,  135  ;  Cook's  Mills,  141 ; 
Mt.  St>  vage  Junction,  146 ;  Cumberland,  150  (Washington,  800 ;  Baltimore,  340). 

The  train  emerges  from  the  Pittsburgh  station,  and  (after. passing  Grant 
Hill)  runs  E.  and  S.  E.  along  the  Monongahela  River,  with  the  busy 
South  Side  Boroughs  on  the  opposite  shore.  Several  suburban  stations 
are  passed,  and  beyond  Braddock's  (opposite  the  field  of  battle,  see  page 
853)  the  train  passes  the  tracks  at  Port  Perry  Junction,  which  diverge  to 
the  Penn.  R.  R.  McKeesport  is  a  borough  of  2,523  inhabitants,  situated 
at  the  confluence  of  the  Monongahela  and  Youghiogheny  Rivers.  It  is 
engaged  in  coal-mining  and  boat-building,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  works  of 
the  American  Tube  Company.  The  railroad  here  turns  to  the  S.  E.  and 
follows  the  r.  bank  of  the  Youghiogheny  for  many  leagues,  with  the  river 
on  the  r.  hand.  The  stations  are  small,  and  the  country  is  thinly  settled. 
In  the  advance  are  seen  the  long  heights  of  Chestnut  Ridge.  Connells- 
ville (Smith's  Hotel)  is  a  large  village  with  manufactories  of  woollen 
goods,  paper,  iron-wares,  etc.  A  bridge  crosses  the  river  to  the  factory 
village  of  New  Haven.  The  hill  scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  quite  pictu- 
resque, and  there  is  a  famous  view  from  the  Cow  Rock,  on  the  ridge  which 
towers  for  1,300  ft.  over  the  town.  •*  Near  the  Cow  Rock,  on  the  broad, 
flat  summit  of  the  mt.,  stand  rows  of  pulpit  rocks,  relics  of  the  eroded 
edge  of  the  soft  yellow  sandstone  of  the  Coal  Conglomerate." 

The  Southwestern  Penn.  R.  R.  runs  N.  from  Connellsville  to  Greensburg  (see 
page  552)  in  24  M.  The  Mt.  Pleasant  Branch  runs  N.  E.  (diverging  from  Broad 
Ford,  2  M.  distant,  on  the  main  line)  to  Mount  Pleasant  borougli,  in  10  M.  The 
Fayette  County  Branch  runs  S.  W.  along  the  base  of  Laurel  Ridge,  passing  Mt. 
Braddock  and  ending  at  Uniontown  (Messmore  House),  14  M.  distant.  This  is  a 
compact  borough  of  2,503  inhabitants,  and  is  situated  on  tlie  National  Road,  4  M. 
W.  of  Laurel  Ridge.  The  surrounding  country  has  a  fertile  limestone  soil^  and  is 
occupied  by  many  profitable  farms.  Bituminous  coal  is  found  in  the  vicinity,  and 
469,450  tons  were  shipped  from  this  county  in  1870.  Madison  College  was 
founded  at  Uniontown  in  1825,  by  the  Methodists.  9  M.  B.  E.  of  Uniontown,  on 
the  summit  of  Laurel  Ridge,  is  a  remarkable  cavern  with  large  subterranean  halls 
and  narrow  passages.  Stages  run  from  Uniontown  over  Laurel  Ridgo  to  the 
Fayette  Springs  (Fayette  Springs  Hotel),  12  M.  S.  E.  These  waters  are  a  pure, 
strong  chalybeate,  and  are  much  visited  in  summer,  although  perhaps  the  chief 
attraction  is  found  in  the  beauty  of  the  hill-scenery  in  this  vicinity,  and  the  purity 


0. 


X- 


GREAT  MEADOWS. 


Haute  55,      365 


of  the  highland  air.    The  Washington  Spring  and  the  Chalk  Hill  Hotel  are  within 
easy  di-ive  of  the  Bprings  House. 

In  this  vicinity  ai-e  tlie  Great  MeadowH,  where  Majoi'  George  Washington,  of  the 
Virginia  militia,  erected  Fort  Necessity  (May,  1754),  whence  he  advanced  and  de- 
feated Jumonville's  French  detachment,  5  M.  N.  on  Laur«l  Ridge.  On  July  3  he 
was  besieged  here  by  M.  de  Villiers  with  900  men,  and  was  soon  forced  to  surren- 
der, being  allowed  to  lead  his  400  soldiers  back  to  Virginia.  Near  this  point  Gen. 
Braddocl<  (see  page  353)  died,  on  the  15th  of  July,  1755,  and  was  buried  at  night 
in  the  road,  while  Washington  read  the  funeral  service  of  the  Episcopal  Church, 
by  torchlight.  Part  of  Uurgoyne's  remains  were  afterwards  carried  away  by 
curiosity-seekers ;  but  the  rest  are  interred  in  a  rudely  marked  grave  near  the 
National  Road  (1  M.  W.  of  Fort  Necessity). 

The  Cumberlaud  train  runs  S.  E.  from  Connellsville  through  the  pic- 
turesque water-gap  in  Laurel  Ridge,  and  follows  the  Youghlogheny 
through  a  wild  and  thinly  populated  region.  Beyond  the  romantic 
scenery  about  the  Ohio-Pile  Falls,  and  the  dark  ravine  in  which  the  line 
passes  between  the  Sugar-Loaf  and  Red  Mts.,  it  diverges  to  the  N.  E. 
up  the  valley  of  Castleman  River.  From  Mineral  Point  Junction  a 
branch  line  runs  N.  E.  to  Somerset,  a  small  borough  and  the  capital  of 
the  Germanic  county  of  Somerset,  well  situated  on  a  knoll  over  the  great 
highland  glades  which  extend  between  the  Laurel  Ridge  and  the  Alle- 
gheny Mts.  The  surrounding  country  contains  large  reserves  of  coal. 
The  train  now  rounds  or  the  r.  the  long  ridge  of  Negro  Mt.,  which  runs 
N.  from  Maryland,  and  traverses  the  Glades  to  the  S.  K,  ascending  long 
grades  and  crossing  the  Allegheny  Mtl.  beyond  Summit  Mills.  Travers- 
ing in  succession  the  Savage  Ridge  and  the  Little  Allegheny,  the  line 
turns  S.  in  the  narrow  valley  between  the  latter  and  Wills  Mt.  (on  the 
S.  E.).  At  Bridgeport  the  Huntington  &  Broad  Top  R  R.  (see  page  347) 
meets  the  present  route,  and  the  train  soon  enters  the  State  of  Maryland. 
15  M.  from  Bridgeport  the  train  reaches  Cttmberland  (see  Route  65). 


I 


Ml 


I 


^ 


55.  Philadelphia  to  Eria 


By  the  Phila.  &  Erie  R.  R. ;  a  favorite  route  to  Western  N.  Y.  and  the  oil  and 
lumber  ftgions  of  Penn.  This  line  is  controlled  by  the  Penn.  R.  R.,  and  its  trains 
run  on  the  Penn.  tracks  to  Harrisbuis.  There  are  3  express-trains  daily  be- 
tween Phila.  and  Lock  Haven,  and  2  daily  between  Phila.  and  Erie  (furnished 
with  Pullman  cars).  Fares.  —  Phila.  to  Lewisburg,  $5.30  ;  to  Williamsport,  If  U  ; 
to  Elmira,  *7.50;  to  Renovo,  $7.84;  to  Emporium,  ;J 8. 65;  to  Buffalo,  ;J  10.75; 
to  Ridgway,  $  9  ;  to  Corry,  $  10.50  ;  to  Oil  City,  $  11  30 ;  to  Erie,  $  10.75.  Also  to 
Minnequa,  87.45;  to  VVatlcius,  ^8.15;  to  Rochester,  $9.75;  to  Niagara  Falls, 
$10.75  ;  to  Toronto,  « 13.75  ;  to  Cliicago,  $20  ;  to  San  Francisco,  $137.50. 

Stations.  —  Phila. ;  Coatesville,  39  M. ;  Lancaster,  69 ;  Harrisburg,  105 ; 
Dauphin,  117;  Clark's  Ferry,  124;  Halifax,  130;  Milleraburg,  136;  Liverpool, 
139;Mahantango,  143 ;  Georjjetown,  146 ;  Trevorton  Junction,  151 ;  Fisher's  Ferry, 
150;  Seliiisgrove,  158;  Sunbury.  163;  Nortliumberland,  165;  Lewisburg  Junction, 
172 ;  Catawissa  Junction,  17o. ;  Milton,  176 ;  Wutsontown,  180 ;  Dewart,  182 ;  Mont- 
gomery, 187 ;  Muncy,  191 ;.  WiUiauiaport,  203  ;  Newberry,  205 ;  Linden,  208 ;  Sus- 
quehanna. 209 ;  Jersey  Shore,  215  ;  Pine,  220 ;  Wayne,  223  ;  Lock  Haven.  228 ; 
Queen's  Run,  232;  Farrandsville,  233;  Ferney,  238;  Whetham,  243;  Ritchie, 
246 ;  Hyner,  249 ;  North  Point,  252 ;  Renovo,  255 ;  Westport,  261 ;  Cook's  Run, 
265 ;  Keating,  268  ;  Wistar,  270  ;  Round  Island,  273 ;  Grove,  277  ;  Slnnemaho- 
niug,  280 ;  Driftwood,  283 ;  Sterling,  292  ;  Cameron,  296 ;  Emporium  Junction,  301 } 


^1 


366      Route  5S. 


SELINSGROVE. 


I 


Emporium.  302;  West  Creek,  303;  Beechwood,  811 ;  Rath bnn,  813;  St.  Mary's, 
823  ;  Uaguseahonda.  328;  Hhawiiiut,  3:51  ;  Ri.J«way,  833,  WilmarUi.  341  ;  Wilcox, 
847;  Uergeant,  352;  Kane,  350  {  Wetmoro,  3tt2;  Ludlow,  3t>6 ;  Roystune,  3U9; 
Sheffield,  372  ;  Tiona,  375 ;  Clarendon,  87^' ;  8tonehani,  380 ;  Warren,  386  ;  Irvine- 
ton,  391;  Youngsville,  393;  Pittstteld,  397;  Garland,  401;  Spring  <;reel<,  407; 
Columbus,  412  ;  Corrv.  414  ;  Lovell's,  417  ;  Comiord,  419  ;  Union,  42o  ;  Le  Boeuf, 
428;  Waterford,  432;  Ja(  kson's,  438;  Langdoii'ii,  442;  Belle  Valley,  444;  Erie, 
451. 

Philadelphia  to  Harrisburg,  see  Route  50. 

From  Harrisburg  the  Erie  train  takes  the  line  of  the  Northern  Central 
R.  R.  to  Sunbury.  On  leaving  Harrisburgh,  the  broad  Susquehanna  is 
followed  to  the  N.  W.  through  a  bold  pass  in  the  Blue  Mt.  Beyond"  the 
long  bridges  of  the  2  railroads  another  deep  gap  is  traversed,  and  the 
train  approaches  the  dark  ridge  of  Peter's  Mt.,  which  inwalls  the  fair 
valley  called  The  Cove.  At  Dauphin,  the  Schuylkill  k  Susquehanna 
R.  R.  diverges  to  the  N.  E.  (see  page  334).  Rounding  the  rugged  chain 
at  its  point  on  the  Susquehanna,  on  the  1.  are  seen  the  mouth  of  the 
Juniata  River  and  the  plains  of  Duncan's  Island  (see  page  345).  Beyond 
the  well-populated  town  of  Hallux,  the  line  passes  through  the  water- 
gap  of  the  Susquehanna  in  Berrie's  Mt.  and  reaches  Millersburg,  whence 
the  Summit  Branch  R.  R.  (for  coal  transi  ortation)  diverges  to  the  E., 
running  for  20  M.  through  narrow  valleys  to  Willinmatovm,  which  is  3  -  4 
M.  from  Tower  City  (see  page  334).  The  colliery  at  Williarastown  shipped 
301,326  tons  in  1873,  which  was  the  largest  annual  shipment  ever  made  by 
any  American  colliery.  There  are  also  large  deposits  and  mines  of  the 
Lykens  Valley  copI  at  Big  Lick  and  Short  Mt.  The  Erie  train  now  passes 
through  the  gap  ;u  tlKD  Mahantongs  Mt.,  and  passes  on  by  Hemdon,  where 
a,  long  bridge  crosses  the  river  to  Port  Trevorton. 

The  M'hanoy  ^  Shamokin  R.  R.  runs  N.  E.  from  Hemdon  through  the  deep 
valleys  and  mt.-pastieiii  of  the  Mahanoy  coal-uelds,  passing  the  populous  boroughs 
of  Shamokin  and  Mt.  Carmel  and  scores  of  collieries.  Stations.  —  Hemdon  ; 
Trevorton,  13^  M. ;  Shamokin, 21 ;  Excelsior,  25 ;  Mount  Carmel,  27 ;  Locust  Gap, 
28^;  Ashlund,  35^ ;  Girardville,  38|^.  From  the  latter  place  railroads  pass  E.  and 
S.  £.  to  all  parts  of  the  Schuylkill  coal-fields  (Tamaqua,  Mahanoy  City,  Potts-> 
ville,  etc.).  * 

The  line  now  passes  between  the  W.  end  of  the  Line  Mt.  and  the  river, 
and  follows  the  broad  and  beautiful  Susquehanna  through  the  fertile 
limestone  intervales.  At  Selinsgrove  a  connection  is  made  with  the 
Lewistown  Division  of  the  Penn.  R.  R.,  whose  track  here  crosses  the 
river  to  the  W.  (see  page  346).  Selinsgrove  is  a  borough  of  1,453  inhab- 
itants, and  is  chiefly  distinguished  as  an  educational  centre,  being  the  seat 
of  the  Missionary  Institute  (a  religious  college  of  the  Lutheran  Church, 
with  6  professors  and  140  students)  and  the  Susquehanna  Female  College 
(a  Lutheran  institution  with  4  professors  and  82  students).  The  train 
passes  on  to  Sa&bnry  {Central  House;  City  Hotel),  the  capital  of  North- 
omberland  County,  a  borough  of  3,131  inhabitants,  pleasantly  situated 
pn  the  E.  shore  of  the  Susquehanna. 


WILLIAMSPORT. 


JtmUe  65.      367 


Mary's, 

Wlknx, 
me.  »UU; 

;  Irvine- 
!ek,  407; 
Le  Boeuf, 
44;  £rie» 


I  Central 
hanna  is 
yond'the 
,  and  the 
the  fair 
quehanna 
ged  chain 
th  of  the 
Beyond 
the  water- 
g,  whence 
^o  the  E., 
ichis3-4 
vn  shipped 
sr  made  by 
tnes  of  the 
[low  passes 
ion,  where 


The  DanviUe.  Hazteton  A  WWcea-Barre  R.  R.  rani  N.  E.  from  Sunbary  ap  tha 
N.  Bnuu'li  or  tlie  Susquehanna,  pa»8ing  Danville  and  CatawiBsa  (see  page  336), 
beyond  which  it  untera  the  Maiiiville  Water  Gap,  and  runH  £.  through  the  Nesco- 
pec  Mtt).,  amid  striiiing  scenery.  Through  this  wild  district  the  train  posReH  on 
to  Hazleton,  where  It  connects  with  a  branch  of  the  Lehigh  Valley  It.  R.  (sea 

Sage  311).  Htatlons*  —  Sunbury ;  Kline's  Orovc,  ft  M. ;  Wolverton^  0;  Kipit's 
lun,  9;  Danville,  12;  Roaring  Creek,  17;  CatawiHsa,  '21;  Muiiiville,  27:  MiiOin 
Cross  Roads,  30;  Scotch  Valley,  34;  Wolfton,  36;  Rock  Glen,  88;  Qowen,  40; 
Tombicken,  44 ;  Hazleton. 

The  train  now  passes  on  to  the  rails  of  the  Phila.  ik  Erie  R.  R.,  and 
crosses  the  N.  Branch  of  the  Susquehanna.  Nortlianiberland  (Central 
IJiMse)  is  a  handsome  borough  of  1,788  inhabitants,  finely  situated  on  the 
point  at  the  confluence  of  the  N.  and  W.  Branches.    At  this  point  are 


the  Lackawanna  &  Blooms- 
Ridge  on  the  r.,  the  train 
sburg  Centre  &  Spruce 
••g^  crossing  the  Susque- 
irom  the  Junction.    This  is  a 


the  tenuini  of  the  Lewistown  Division 
burg  R.  R.  (Route  67).  Passing  Mo! 
reaches  Lewisbicrg  Junction,  wheuci 
Creek  Branch  runs  S.  W.  11  M.  to 
hanna,  and  reaching  Lemsburg  at  2  l\. 
borough  of  3,131  inhabitants,  and  is  the  seat  of  Lewisburg  University,  a 
Baptist  institution  which  dates  from  1846,  and  has  14  instmctoni,  216 
students,  and  a  library  of  about  5,000  volumes.  The  Erie  train  passes  on 
to  Miltott  (Huff's  Hotel),  a  large  village  where  the  Catawissa  R.  R.  comes 
in  from  the  S.  E.  (see  page  336).  The  train  now  advances  over  the  allu- 
vial river-side  plains,  with  the  Nittany  and  White  Deer  Mts.  in  the  W. 
The  country  is  thickly  settled  and  fertile,  and  the  line  passes  several 
pretty  rural  hamlets.  The  Catawissa  R.  R.  (see  page  336)  crosses  the 
river  below  Milton,  and  follows  the  W.  shore ;  and  about  9  M.  above  the 
Phila.  k  Erie  also  crosses  to  the  W.  bank,  and  intersects  the  former  near 
Montgomery,  at  the  outlet  of  the  White  Deer  Valley.  The  lines  ran 
parallel  for  several  miles,  and  then  the  Catawissa  recrosses  the  river  and 
reaches  Muncy  (whence  the  Muncy  Creek  R.  R.  runs  N.  E.  to  Hughes- 
ville).  It  then  follows  the  1.  bank  by  the  flourishing  borough  of  Montours- 
ville  (Putney  House),  and,  crossing  the  Loyalsock  Creek,  enters  Williams- 
poil;.  The  Phila.  &  Erie  R.  R.  sweeps  around  the  broad  Muncy  Bend 
under  a  high  ridge,  crosses  the  Susquehanna  (W.  Branch),  and  also  reaches 
Williamsport  (*  Herdic  House,  in  gardens  near  the  station,  $3  a  day; 
*  Crawford  House,  in  the  city;  City  Hotel,  opposite  the  Court  House, 
$  2.50),  the  capital  of  Lycoming  County,  and  the  chief  lumber-mart  of 
the  State.  It  is  situated  on  the  W.  Branch  of  the  Susquehanna,  and  is 
surrounded  by  high  hills,  the  Bald  Eagle  Mts.  occupying  the  S.  border. 
The  streets  are  wide  and  straight,  and  are  traversed  by  horse-cars  (on  3d 
and  44h  Sts.);  andW.  4th  St.,  toward  the  spacious  Herdic  House,  is  lined 
with  villas.  The  county  buildings  are  on  3d  St.,  and  the  prison  is  a 
quaint  piece  of  castellated  architecture.  To  the  N.,  at  the  head  of 
Academy  St.,  is  the  Dickinson  Seminary,  an  extensive  pile  of  brick  build« 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STRMT 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


S68     Jtouto  SB, 


LOCK  HAVEN. 


tap  aooommodating  200  students  of  both  saxes  (founded  1847).  N.  of 
the  city  is  Herdic  Park,  containing  85  acres  of  land,  and  equipped  with 
Iwgfi  trout-houses.  To  the  N.  W.  is  tk  "i  Wildwood  Cemetery.  The  fnreat 
Suaquehanna  Boom  extends  from  Williamsport  for  8  -  4  M.  up  the  river, 
with  massive  piers  and  braces.  It  cost  over  $  1,000,000,  and  will  hold 
800,000,000  ft.  of  lumber.  In  the  spring  months  this  boom  is  so  filled  with 
logs  that  the  river  can  be  crossed  anywhere  on  a  solid  floor  of  timber.  During 
the  past  10  years  the  boom  has  held  8,812,000  logs,  equalling  1,648,000,000 
ft.  of  boards,  and  valued  at  $  100,000,000.  The  shipments  of  lumber  for 
the  last  4  years  amounted  to  over  900,000,000  ft.  The  river-front  of  the 
eity  is  lined  with  basins  and  saw-mills,  the  chief  of  which  are  the  Dodge 
Mills,  where  200  men  and  200  saws,  in  the  200  days  of  the  lumbering 
season,  make  25,000,000  ft.  of  boards.  The  wood  is  pine  and  hemlock, 
and  the  trafSc  is  regulated  by  the  Lumbermen's  Exchange  (near  the  Court 
House).  The  suburbs  of  Duhoiatoton  and  Rocktoum  are  on  the  S.,  under 
the  Bald  Eagle  Mts.,  and  are  joined  to  the  city  by  a  long  and  graceful 
suspension-bridge,  which  ends  near  the  Catawissa  R.  R.  station  (foot  of 
Pine  St. ;  1  M.  fVom  the  Phiht.  k  Erie  B.  R.  station).  Williamsport  was 
fbunded  about  1795,  and  now  has  16,030  inhabitants,  24  churches,  8  daily 
and  2  weekly  (German)  papers,  and  4  banks.  It  is  the  terminus  of  the 
Catawissa  R.  R.  (199  M.  from  Phila.),  and  is  78  M.  from  Elmira,  by  the 
K.  Central  R.  R.    The  elegant  Trinity  Church  was  finished  in  1876. 

The  Erie  train  now  runs  S.  W.,  crossing  the  Lycoming  C*reek,  and  then 
the  W.  Branch.  Near  the  entrance  to  the  Nippenose  Valley  is  the  station 
for  Jersey  Shore  (Jersey  Shore  Hotel),  a  thriving  borough  1^  M.  N.  W. 
on  the  1.  bank  of  the  river.  13  M.  beyond,  the  train  reaches  Look  HaTen 
(*  Fallon  BouM  ;  Montour  ;  Irvine),  a  city  of  over  7,000  inhabitants, 
chiefly  engaged  in  the  lumber  trade.  Immense  numbers  of  pine  logs  are 
received  at  the  Lock  Haven  boom  every  year,  and  are  used  in  the  saw- 
mills of  the  city.  The  Bald  EagU  VaUey  Division  of  the  Penn.  R.  R. 
runs  55^  M.  S.  W.  to  Tyrone  (see  page  348).  The  scenery  of  the  Alle- 
ghenies  and  of  the  Bald  Eagle  Valley  attracts  summer  visitors  to  Lock 
Haven;  and  there  are  many  pleasant  drives  in  the  vicinity. 

5  M.  above  Lock  Haven  the  Erie  train  crosses  the  W.  Branch,  and  runs 
N.  W.  on  its  1.  bank,  through  a  rugged  and  uninhabited  region,  where 
lofty  ridges  close  in  on  the  river  on  each  side.  Benovo  (*  Renovo  Hotel) 
is  a  borough  of  over  2,000  inhabitants,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  railroad  shops 
and  foundries.  There  are  large  deposits  of  bituminous  coal  in  the  vi- 
cinity, and  the  mountain- scenery  is  picturesque.  The  pleasant  aspect  of 
the  valley  and  the  flne  trouting  in  the  adjacent  streams'^have  made  Renovo 
a  favorite  point  for  summer  visitors. 

The  line  now  runs  S.  W.,  and  near  Keating  leaves  the  W.  Br&nch,  and 
runs  N.  W.  along  the  broad  Sinnemahoning  Oeek.    The.  country  which 


WABtlBN. 


n<mU  56.     369 


is  now  traversed  for  many  leag^ies  was  a  silent  wilderness  40  years  ago, 
and  still  remains  ho;  except  for  the  feeble  settlements  near  the  railroad. 
Beyond  the  hamlet  of  Sinnemahoning  the  train  reaches  Driftwood,  a 
small  place  situated  amid  picturesque  scenery.  The  completed  portion 
of  the  JSaatem  Extension  of  the  Allegheny  Valley  R.  R.  (see  page  868) 
runs  from  Driftwood  20  M.  S.  W.  to  Bart's,  traversing  a  rugged  solitude. 
The  Erie  train  now  turns  to  the  N.  and  reaches  Emporium  (BiddU  House\ 
the  capital  of  Cameron  County,  an  important  lumbering  town  in  the 
heart  of  the  mountain-environed  wilderness  which  was  formerly  called  the 
Great  Horse-Shoe  of  the  AUeghenies.  Valuable  salt-springs  have  been 
found  in  this  vicinity.  The  Buffalo,  N.  Y.  &  Phila  B.  B.  runs  N.  from 
Emporium  (see  Boute  66). 

Station,  8t.  Kary'i  {Alpine  House;  St.  Mary's  Hotel),  a  village  of 
over  1,000  inhabitants,  situated  amid  broad  timber  lands  and  near  prolific 
mines  of  bituminous  coal.  Considerable  iron-ore  has  also  been  found  in 
the  vicinity.  This  villtige  is  the  seat  of  St.  Mary's  Priory  (a  monastery 
of  the  Benedictines),  and  of  St.  Mary's  Convent,  the  Mother-House  of 
the  Benedictine  nuns  in  the  United  States.  Station,  liidgway  (Hyde 
House),  a  borough  of  800  inhabitants,  and  the  capital  of  Elk  County,  sur- 
rounded by  fine  timber  and  by  coal-mines.  From  Dagmcahbnda  a  branch 
railroad  runs  6  M.  S.  to  the  hamlet  of  Earley.  The  Erie  train  runs  N. 
along  the  Clarion  Biver  to  Wilcox  (Wilcox  House),  where  is  an  immense 
tannery  which  is  claimed  to  be  the  largest  in  the  world.  Kane  (railroad 
hotel)  is  situated  on  the  Big  Level,  a  long  and  narrow  plateau  which  runs 
thence  to  the  3.  Large  railroad  repair-shops  are  located  here.  The  train 
now  leaves  the  Wild-Cat  Country  and  descends  on  long  and  even  grades. 
8  .M.  beyond  Stoneham  the  Allegheny  Biver  is  reached,  and  the  train 
stops  at  Warren,  the  capital  6f  Warren  County,  pleasantly  situated  at 
the  head  of  steamboat  navigation  on  the  river,  and  at  its  confluence  with 
the  Conewango  Biver.  It  was  settled  under  the  auspices  of  the  Holland 
Land  Co.  in  1792;  and  now  has  over  2,000  inhabitaats,  with  7  churches 
and  2  weekly  papers.  The  Allegheny  Iron- Works  and  other  manufac- 
tories are  located  here;  and  the  Dunkirk,  Warren  &  Pittsburgh  B.  B. 
runs  thence  to  the  N.  Freight-boats  can  ascend  the  Allegheny  Biver  to 
Olean  Point,  N.  Y.  The  tanneries  here  are  very  extensive,  and  employ 
many  men.  The  borough  still  preserves  the  wide  rectangtilar  streets 
with  which  it  was  originally  laid  out,  and  is  attractive  in  its  appearance. 

At  Irvineton  the  Oil  Creek  &  Allegheny  Biver  B.  B.  (see  page  259) 
diverges  to  the  S.  W.  Thence  the  line  runs  across  Broken  Straw  and 
Pittafield,  and  reaches  Corry  (see  page  860).  Union  City  is  at  the  inter- 
section of  the  Philo.  &  Erie,  the  Atlantic  k  Great  Western,  and  the  Titus- 
ville  B.  Bs.,  and  is  a  growing  factory  town.  Water/ord  is  a  prosperous 
village  situated  on  Lake  Lebo^uf,  in  the  midst  of  a  country  aboundihg  in 
16«  X 


370     RouU  6$. 


ERIE. 


1  i 


dairy  and  cattle  farms.  The  French  built  Fort  Lelxanf  on  this  site  in 
1753,  and  Washington  spent  a  week  here  in  the  sam»  y^ar,  doriug  which 
be  reviewed  the  garrison.  In  1763  the  English  garrisou  was  attacked  by 
the  Indians  of  Pontiac's  confederacy,  and  the  troops  escaped  by  an  under- 
ground passage  while  the  fort  was  burning.  A  large  metallic  plate  was 
found  here  recently,  with  the  inscription  ;, — 

"  In  the  year  1749,  in  the  reign  of  Louis  :^V.,  King  of  France,  we,  Celeron,  com- 
mandant  of  a  detachment  by  Monsieur  the  Marquis  of  GalllBoniere,  Commander- 
in-chief  of  New  France,  to  establish  tranquillity  in  certain  villages  of  these  can- 
tons, have  buried  this  plate  at  the  confluence  of  Toradekoin,  this  29th  of  July, 
near  the  river  Ohio,  otherwise- the  Beautiful  River,  as  a  monument  of  renewal  of 
possession  which  we  have  talcen  of  the  said  river,  inasmuch  as  the  preceding 
Kings  of  France  have  enjoyed  this  possession,  and  maintained  it  by  their  arms 
and  by  treaties,  especially  by  those  of  ByswiclE,  Utrecht,  and  Aix  La  Chapelle." 

8-10  M.  S.  W.  of  Waterford  is  Edinboro\  prettily  situated  near  Con- 
neautee  Lake,  and  the  seat  of  the  N.  W.  State  Normal  School  (250-800 
students).  It  has  800  inhabitants  and  4  churches.  The  train  runs  N.  W. 
from  Waterford  over  a  thinly  settled  country  to 


Erie. 


I 


Hotels*  — *Reid  House,  new  and  elennt ;  *  Ellsworth  House,  $8  a  day;  — 
both  fi-onting  on  the  City  Parle.  Morton  House,  and  other  small  hotels.  AmvM- 
menta  at  the  new  Opera-House.  Reading-Room  and  library,  comer  of  State  and 
8th  Sts.  Horse-Can  on  Peach,  State,  and  Sixth  Sts.,  from  the  union  depot  to  the 
pApk  ftnd  tilifi  hftfljor 

Railroads.  —  The  Lake  Shore  &  M.  S.  R.  B.,  to  Chicago  in  451  M.,  to  Buf- 
falo, 88 ;  the  Erie  &  Pittsburgh  (Route  62),  to  Pittsburgh  in  148  M. ;  the  Phila. 
&  Erie,  to  Phila.  in  451  M. 

Erie  is  a  flourishing  lake-city  of  over  20,000  inhabitants,  with  1  daily 
and  5  weekly  papers,  28  churches,  7  banks,  4  boat-clubs,  and  6  Masonic 
societies.  It  has  a  large  German  population,  with  5  Harugari  lodges  ajid 
10  breweries,  and  is  the  capital  of  a  Roman  Catholv:  diocese.  The  city 
extends  for  3  M.  along  the  shore,  and  is  mostly  built  on  a  low  bluff  over- 
looking the  bay.  The  chief  industries  are  the  shipment  of  coal  and  the 
manipulation  of  Lake  Superior  iron.  Th»  railroads  have  large  docks 
here,  and  the  Erie  k  Pittsburgh  line  ha  ocks  1,500  ft.  long,  —  one 
for  shipping  coal,  and  the  other  (furnished  ..i^a  12  derricks)  for  unloading 
iron  ore.  There  are  25  iron-works  and  rolling-mills  here,  besides  brass- 
works,  6  oil-refineries,  and  10  planmg-mills.  Erie  is  <ilso  a  port  of  entry 
and  a  station  of  the  naval  revenue  service ;  owning  vessels  of  24,716  ag- 
gregate tonnage ;  and  in  1872,  2,392  vessels  cleared  from  the  port.  The 
Erie  Extension  Canal,  passing  S.  to  the  Ohio  River,  has  been  discon- 
tinued; but  the  Penn.  Petroleum  R.  R.  is  to  be  built  to  the  Oil  Regions. 
Erie  is  the  head-quarters  of  the  Anchor  Line  of  stealers  (14  propellers), 
and  has  elevators  with  a  capacity  of  350,000  bushels^  Its  imports  in 
1871  -  72  were,  —  of  iron-ore,  406,000  tons;  timber,  1,600,000  ft.  ;  lum- 
ber, 45,000,000  ft. ;  flour,  408,000  barrels;  wheat,  1,708,000  bushels;  oats. 


ERDB. 


Mauuee.    371 


lis  site  in 
Kg  which 
backed  by 
an  under> 
plate  was 


ileron,  com- 
lommander- 
r  these  can- 
9th  of  July, 
renewal  of 
e  preceding 
r  their  arms 
ChapeUe." 

I  near  Con- 

(250-800 

Tins  N.  W. 


18  a  day;  — 
tela.  AmuM- 
of  State  and 
depot  to  the 

M.,  to  Buf- 
l. ;  the  Phila. 

h  1  daily 
6  Masonic 
edges  and 
The  city 
bluff  over- 
>al  and  the 
arge  docks 
Dng,  —  one 
unloading 
ides  brass- 
>rt  of  entry 
24,716  ag. 
•rt.    The 
len  discon- 
[1  Regions, 
tropellers), 
iports  in 
ft.  ;  lum- 
els;  oats, 


1,469,000  bnshels;  com,  1,176,000  bushels;  and  barley,  147,000  bushels. 
Presque  Isle  Bay  lies  before  the  city,  and  is  the  best  on  Lake  Erie,  being 
5  M.  long  by  1  -  3  M.  wide,  and  14  -  27  ft.  deep.  It  is  the  only  lake-port 
which  belongs  to  Penn.,  and  is  sheltered  by  Presque  Ide^  a  narrow  penin- 
sula 7  M.  long,  pertaining  to  the  State  and  the  Republic.  The  Isle  ftonta 
the  lake  with  a  w^ll  of  .sand,  and  is  an  uninhabited  wilderness,  where 
ducks  and  fish  are  sought  in  the  ponds  and  bayous.  Fine  black  bass  are 
caught  in  the  bay;  and  Massasaugie  Point  is  a  favorite  resort  for  pic- 
nics. Several  of  Perry's  frigates  sank  in  Misery  Bay,  and  the  hull  of  the 
^Si^.  Laivrence  is  still  seen  in  calm  weather.  The  distances  from  Erie  by 
water  are,  —to  Buffalo,  79  M. ;  to  Toronto,  126;  to  Cleveland,  100;  to 
Detroit,  188;  to  Chicago,  827;  to  Duluth,  933. 

The  Park  is  about  ^  M.  from  the  bay,  and  is  divided  by  State  St.  It 
is  the  central  point  of  the  city,  and  is  surrounded  by  iine  buildings,  chief 
among  which  are  the  great  hotels.  On  the  well-kept  lawns  are  lines  of 
umbi*ageous  trees,  and  the  Park  is  further  adorned  by  a  *  Soldiers*  Monu* 
ment,  consisting  of  bronze  statues  of  heroic  size,  representing  a  soldier 
and  a  sailor  upholding  the  flag.  This  memorial  was  dedicated  late  in 
1873,  and  cost  $  10,000.  The  Court  House  is  near  the  Park,  and  is  a 
handsome  building  in  classic  architecture.  Toward  the  bay  is  the  mas- 
sive little  Custom  House,  and  at  the  corner  of  Ash  and  Second  Sts.  are 
the  spacious  buildings  of  the  U.  S.  Marine  Hospital. 

Id  1749  Jean  Coeur  built  at  Presque  Isle  (now  Erie)  an  important  fort,  the  most 
northerly  of  the  chain  of  posts  established  by  the  Fronch  in  the  W.  The  place  was 
deserted  after  tlie  Conquest  of  Canada,  until  Gen.  Wayne  built  a  block-house 
here  in  1794.  On  hi&  return  from  the  Maumee  campaign  the  brave  old  soldier 
died  here  (of  the  gout).  In  1813  the  U.  S.  built  two  strong  block-houses  near  the 
entrance  of  the  port.  The  town  was  laid  out  in  1795,  and  was  a  pretty  village  in 
1812,  when  Com.  Perry  began  here  the  construction  of  the  Lake  Erie  fleet.  To 
this  point  he  brought  vessels  and  naval  supplies  from  the  Niagara  River,  and  here 
he  was  long  blockaded  by  Barclay's  British  squadron.  There  were  1,500  Penn. 
militia  in  garrison,  but  Perry  had  no  sailors  uiave  150  Rhode-Islanders)  to  man 
his  fleet,  until  Aug.,  1813,  when  he  sailed  boldly  iW>m  the  harbor,  and  within  5 
weeks  met  and  captured  the  hostile  fleet  in  the  renowned  Battle  of  Lake  Erie. 

56.  Philadelphia  to  BnfEao. 

By  the  Penn.  R.  R.,  N.  Central,  and  Phila.  &  Erie  lines  to  Emporium,  where  a 
connection  is  made  with  the  Buffalo,  New  York,  &  Phila.  R.  R.  Pullman  palace- 
cars  run  through  to  Buffalo  without  change.  Tliis  route  (or  rather,  that  portion 
between  Emporium  and  Buffalo)  has  been  recently  completed ;  and  it  is  claimed 
that  it  affords  a  great  saving  of  time  to  traveller  bound  from  Phila.  or  Baltimore 
to  Western  N.  Y.  The  line  traverses  (for  the  most  part)  a  region  devoid  of  cities 
and  of  history ;  but  the  rugged  scenery  of  the  Alleghenies  and  the  Susquehanna 
Valley  will  attract  the  attention  of  the  tourist. 

Stations.  —  Philadelphia ;  Downington,  S3  M.;  Lancaster,  69;  Harriflbui|^ 
109 ;  Sunbury,  163 1  WiUiamsport,  203 ;  Lock  Haven,  228 ;  Renovo,  255 ;  Drift- 
wood, 283;  Empomm,  302.  Buffalo,  N.  Y.  £  Phila.  R.  iJ.— Shippen,  809; 
Keating  Summit,  316;  Liberty,  319;  Port  AJiegheny,  327;  Turtle  Point,  382; 
SartweU,  334;  Larabee's,  336;  Eldred,  3.S9;  State  Line,  344;  Portville,  847; 
Weston's,  350;  Olean,  353;   Hinsdale,  360;   Ischus,  360;  Franklinville,  874; 


I 


372     JHovUSr,        .  NORTHUMBERLAND.         \ 

MachlM,  881 ;  Torkshire  Centre,  886:  Arcade,  888;  Protection,  894:  HoQand, 
807;  S.  Wales,  402;  E.  Aurora.  400;  Jamison  Road,  409;  Elma,  411;  Spring 
^ Brook,  418 ;  Ebeneser,  417 ;  Junction,  422 ;  fiuflhlo,  428. 

Phil*,  to  Harrisbui^g,  see  pages  888-342;  Harrisborg  to  Emporium, 
see  pages  866-369.  At  Emporium  the  Buffalo,  N.  Y.  k  Phila.  R.  R. 
diverges  to  the  N.,  and  crosses  the  forest-county  of  McKean,  which  has 
but  8,825  inhabitants  on  1,120  square  M.  of  area.  At  Port  Allegheny 
the  train  reaches  the  Allegheny  River,  whose  r.  bank  is  followed  for  27 
M.  to  OUan  (see  page  281),  where  the  Erie  Railway  is  intersected.  '  Run- 
ning N.  through  the  hilly  N.  Y.  county  of  Cattaraugus,  the  line  ascends 
the  Oil  Creek  and  Ischna  Valleys.  E.  of  Ischua  station  is  the  Oil  Creek 
Reservation  of  the  Seneca  Indians.  The  rural  hamlets  which  are  next 
traversed  throughout  many  miles  of  the  hill-country  were  settled  early  in 
the  present  century  by  men  of  New  England.  Beyond  the  small  villages 
of  Cadiz  and  Franklinville,  the  train  passes  along  the  E.  shore  of  Lime 
Lake  and  enters  Yorkshire,  after  which  Sardinia,  Holland,  and  Wales  are 
traversed  in  succession.  From  HoUand  stages  run  S.  W.  to  Springviilef 
a  large  village  near  Cattaraugus  Creek,  with  5  churches  and  anewspaper. 
From  K  Aurora  stages  run  S.  E.  to  Wales  and  Java.  The  fertile  valley 
of  the  Cazenove  Creek  is  followed  firom  Protection  to  Buffalo,  except  in 
Elma,  where  the  line  makes  a  detour  to  the  N.  Beyond  the  settlement 
of  W.  Seneca  the  train  crosses  the  Buffalo  Creek,  and  soon  enters  the 
city  of  BufBftlo  (see  page  233). 

67.  Hanislrarg  to  the  Valley  of  Wyoming. 

By  the  N.  Central  and  tlie  Laclcawanna  &  Bloomsbuig  B.  Rs.,  following  up  the 
Susquehanna  Valley  for  127  M. 

Stations.—  Harrisburg:  Millersbuii^  27  H.;  Northumberland,  66;  Danville 
08 :  Oatawiseia  Bridge,  76 ;  Rupert,  78 ;  Bloomsburg,  80  ;  Espy,  82 ;  Briar  Creek, 
89 :  Berwick,  93 ;  Beach  Haven.  05 ;  Sbickshinny,  104 ;  Hunlack's  Creek,  109 ; 
Kantiooke,  112 ;  Plymouth,  116 ;  Plymouth  Junction,  117 :  Kingston,  119 ;  Wy- 
oming, 124 ;  W.  Pittston,  126 ;  Pittston,  127 ;  Lackawanna,  130 ;  Soranton,  1S6< 

Harrisburg  to  Northumberland,  see  pages  366,  367. 

At  Northamberland  the  Lackawanna  k  Bloomsburg  R.  R.  diverges  to 
the  N.  £.,  reaching  Scranton  in  80  M.,  after  traversing  the  whole  length 
of  the  Valley  of  Wyoming.  The  line  ascends  the  N.  bank  of  the  N. 
Branch  of  the  Susquehanna  River,  and,  beyond  the  petty  hamlets  of 
Cameron  and  Chulasky,  approaches  Montour's  Ridge  (on  the  1. ),  and 
reaches  the  large  iron-manufacturing  borough  of  Danville  (see  page  336). 
Following  now  the  broad  curve  of  the  river  to  the  S.,  Catawissa  Bridge 
is  soon  reached,  beyond  which  is  seen  the  pretty  village  of  Cataioissa  (see 
page  336).  Intersecting  the  Catawissa  R.  R.  near*Rupert,  the  present 
route  continues  on  to  Bloomsburg  (Brown's  Hotel),  an  old  borough  of 
3,341  inhabitants,  which  has  been  the  capital  of  Columbia  County  for  72 
years.    As  the  train  passes  up  by  Espy,  the  Catawissa  Mts.  are  seen  on 


iL 


VALLEY  OF  WYOMING.        SouUSS,      373 

the  r.,  with  glimpnes  of  the  Mainville  Water-Gap.  Farther  to  the  E.,  the 
traveller  has  occasional  views  of  the  Huntington  Mt.  on  the  1.,  and  the 
dark  Nes'copec  Mt.  on  the  r.  Beyond  Berwick  the  line  enters  the  coal- 
abounding  Luzerne  County,  and  at  Belle  Bend  turns  N.  with  the  river, 
traverses  the  water-gap  at  Lees  Mt.,  and  reaches  Shickahinny  (Yaple'a 
Hotel),  a  borough  of  1,045  inhabitants,  near  the  Wapwallopen  Mt,  and 
in  a  district  which  is  frequented  by  trout-fishers.  Ascending  for  6-8  M. 
the  narrow  pass  between  the  Shickahinny  Mt.  (1.)  and  the  Nanticoke  Mt. 
(r.),  the  train  enters  the  Valley  of  Wyoming  beyond  W.  Nanticoke,  and 
soon  reaches  Orand  Ttmnel  and  the  mines  and  breakers  of  the  Susque- 
hanna Goal  Co.  The  river  is  followed  over  the  rich  alluvial  plains  called 
the  Shawnee  Flats;  and  on  the  r.,  beyond  the  island  gemmed  river,  is  the 
tall  peak  called  Penobscot  Knob.  Avondale  is  near  the  great  colliery 
where  (a  few  years  since)  102  nihiers  were  burnt  or  suffocated  in  the 
depths  below  by  the  conflagration  of  the  breaker  over  the  mouth  of  the 
shaft.  For  several  miles  the  line  passes  a  succession  of  coal-pits  and 
slopes,  and  the  great  wooden  buildings  of  the  breakers.  PlynwiUh  is  a 
borough  of  nearly  8,000  inhabitants,  and  is  near  the  Delaware  k  Hudson, 
Wilkes-Barre,  and  Nottingham  Collieries.  Station,  Kingston  (Kingston 
Hotel),  a  prosperous  village  near  large  collieries,  and  the  seal  of  the 
Wyoming  Seminary.  Horse-cars  run  thence  across  the  -^yet  to  Wilkev* 
Barre,  the  metropolis  of  the  Valley  (see  page  312).  Traversing  now  the 
verdant  fntervales,  the  train  passes  near  the  Maltby  Colliery,  Forty  Fort, 
and  the  tall  obelisk  of  the  Wyoming  Monument  (see  page  314),  and,  be- 
yond the  pretty  village  of  W.  Pittston,  crosses  the  Susquehanna  in  full 
view  of  Campbell's  Ledge.  Passing  through  Pittston,  the  line  leaves  the 
Valley  of  Wyoming,  and  ascends  the  narrow  and  mt.-walled  valley  of  the 
Lackawanna  River.  Approaching  the  coal-planes  and  breakers  which 
surround  Scranton,  the  train  traverses  the  suburb  of  Hyde  Park,  crosses 
the  Lackawanna,  and  enters  the  city. 
Soranton,  see  page  246. 


[are  seen  on 


58.  Harrisburg  to  CarlMe  and  Martiiisbiirg.    The,  Ciini- 

berland  Valley. 

By  the  Cumberland  Valley  R.  R.,  traversing  a  fruitftU  and  pictoFesque  region 
which  has  gained  a  new  interest  from  its  history  during  the  last  decade.  Trainir 
fh)m  Harrisburg  to  Carlisle  in  1  hr. ;  to  Chambersbuig  in  2^  hrs. ;  to  Martins- 
burg  in  4i  hrs. 

r 

bui 

OOUVii  Jnii.  wuMV'Vi\#iif  xa  \i.iuo  vaturc,  •'•'7/  1  viuxioic,  xa  ,   viv/uu  Axi/fc.  «uj  f&.viuvwu, 

26 ;  NewviUe,  30 ;  Oakville,  34 ;  Shippensbuig,  41 ;  Scotland,  47 ;  Mount  Alto 
Juhctiun,  48  (Mount  Alto)  ;  Chambersburg,  52 ;  Marion,  58 ;  S.  Penn.  Junction, 
59  (Merceraburg,  73 ;  Richmond,  78) ;  Greencastle,  63  ;  Statg  Line,  68 :  Morgan- 
town,  70  ;  Hagerstown,  74  :  Washington,  77 ;  Williamsport,  81 ;  Falling  Waters, 
85;  Biddington,  88;  Berlceley,  89  ;  Martiusburg,  M. 


374     RouUSS, 


CARUSLB. 


1  :i 


The  tndn  leaves  the  greiit  •Ution  of  the  Penn.  R  R.  at  HarrisbtiTg^ 
and  crosses  the  Susquehanna  on  a  bridge  from  wh^oh  are  gained  pleasant 
views  of  the  dty,  the  island-strewn  river,  and  the  picturesque  water-gap 
to  the  N.  At  Bridgeport  the  N.  Central  R.  R.  is  orodsed,  and  on  the 
adjacent  heights  are  seen  remains  of  the  fortifications  which  were  erected 
in  1863  to  defend  Harrisburg  against  the  Rebel  invasion.  The  train 
soon  reaches  Meohuiietbnrg  {American  Hotel;  national),  a  handsome 
borough  of  2,500  inhabitants,  with  7  churches,  a  neat  town  hall,  and  busy 
car- works  and  paper-mills.  It  has  a  large  trade  with  the  densely  popu- 
lated farming-country  in  the  vicinity,  and  a  branch  railroad  runs  S.  16  M. 
to  the  villagb  of  DiUahurg.  E.  of  the  Irarough  is  the  spacious  brick 
building  of  the  Irving  Female  College,  a  Methodist  institution  of  con- 
siderable local  fame,  and  to  the  W.  is  the  Cumberland  Valley  Institute, 
with  75  students.  Both  these  buildings  are  seen  on  the  1.  as  the  train 
passes  the  compact  little  borough  with  its  cluster  of  church-spires. 

The  train  now  ascends  the  valley,  with  the  South  Mt.  on  the  1.,  and  the 
imposing  range  of  the  Blue  Mt.  on  the  r.  Carliale  {Bentz  Houee  ;  Man- 
sion House)^  the  capital  of  Cumberland  County,  is  a  pleasant  borough  of 
6,650  inhabitants,  and  is  situated  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  valley.  It 
is  compactly  and  substantially  built  on  wide  straight  macadamized  streets 
which  abound  in  shade  trees;  and  the  Court  House  fronts  on  the  public 
square  opposite  an  ancient  church.  On  this  square  is  a  neat  monument 
which  was  erected  "  In  honor  of  the  soldiers  of  Cumberland  County  who 
fell  in  defence  of  the  Union,  during  the  great  rebellion."  The  county 
prison  is  a  neat  building  of  brown-stone,  formed  by  3  towers  connected 
by  a  curtain-wall,  and  in  the  W.  ward  is  the  county  fair-ground,  with  its 
floral  hall  and  race-course.  On  Main  St.,  W.  of  the  public  square,  are  the 
grounds  which  surround  the  plain  old  buildings  of  Diokinion  College,  a 
venerable  institution  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Church,  which  was 
founded  in  1783,  and  has  nearly  1,200  alumni.  It  now  has  8  instructors 
and  about  100  students,  and  the  largest  college  library  in  the  State 
(numbering  26,000  volumes).  The  name  was  given  in  honor  of  Hon. 
John  Dickinson  (the  Delaware  statesman  of  the  Revolutionary  era),  who 
endowed  and.  aided  in  founding  the  college.  The  scientific  department, 
library,  and  museum  are  on  the  opposite  side  of  Main  St.  The  Carlisle 
Barraoka  of  the  U.  S.  Army  formerly  consisted  of  25  buildings,  situated 
^  M.  from  the  public  square.  They  were  built  in  1777  by  the  Hessian 
prisoners  from  Trenton,  and  were  the  head-quarters  of  the  U.  S.  army 
during  the  Whiskey  Rebellion  (when  Washington's  quarters  were  on  Han- 
over St.,  near  the  square).  At  a  later  day  this  post'was  commanded  by 
Capt  Robert  K  Lee,  of  the  U.  S.  A.,  who  afterwards  became  com- 
mander-in-chief of  the  immense  armies  of  the  insuigent  Southern  States, 
and  conquered  the  Cumberland  Valley. 


OARLISL& 


Bouie  68.     375 


Thli  diftrict  wu  settled  In  1780  by  the  Scotch-Irish,  on  the  lands  of  the 
Aquanuchioni  Indians.  In  1761  CariUle  was  founded  by  the  proprietaries,  and 
soon  became  an  important  military  post  of  the  W.  frontier.  For  many  years  it 
was  on«  of  the  proudest  and  most  aristocratic  places  in  the  State,  and  it  still  re> 
tniiiM  much  of  the  ancient  dignity.  July  1,  1863,  it  was  heavily  bombarded  by 
rebel  artillery  and  suffered  murh  damage.  It  wuii  taken  by  the  Houthem  troops, 
wlio  then  occupied  MechanicnburK  nnd  advanced  to  within  4  M.  of  Harrisbunt, 
wlience  they  drove  in  tlie  National  outposts  to  tlie  alarmed  capital,  and  caused 
the  costly  bridges  over  the  Susquelianna  to  be  prepared  or  burning. 

1^  M.  N.  of  Carlisle,  on  the  Conedoguinet  Creek,  is  a  remarkable  cav« 
em  which  is  entered  by  a  aymmetrical  arch  8  ft.  high.  A  straight  pas- 
sage through  the  limestone  ledge.s  leads  thence  (in  270  ft.)  to  the  diver- 
gence of  ^  avennes,  of  which  that  to  the  r.  leads  to  the  obscure  hall  called 
the  Devil's  Dining-Room.  The  Happy  Retreat,  the  Carlisle  Springs,  Mt. 
Holly  Spring,  and  other  points  about  the  borough  are  often  visited. 

The  Sowth  Mt.  R.  R.  runs  S.  W.  trovn  Carlisle  (Junction  station)  to  the  extensive 
iron-worlcs  at  Laurel  Forge  and  Pine  Grove,  amid  the  defiles  of  the  South  Mt, 
17|  M.  distant  (I  train  daily,  in  2(  hrs.).  Mt.  Holly  Springs  {V.  S.  Hotel)  is  pleas- 
antly situated  at  the  base  of  the  mts.,  and  has  a  newspaper  called  The  Mountain 
Echo,    The  new  Miramar  R.  R.  wiU  pass  this  point. 

The  BoUing  Spring  is  5  M.  S.  E.  or  Oarlisle,  and  is  the  seat  of  the  Carlisle  Iron 
Ca,  which  owns  10,000  acres  of  mineral  land  about  Mt  Victory. 

The  Carlisle  Spring!  {Springs  Hotel,  $2.50  a  day)  are  situated  in  a 
pleasant  valley  at  the  foot  of  the  Blue  Mt.,  4  M.  N.  of  the  borough  (daily 
stages).  The'  waters  are  sulphurous,  and  are  beneficial  iu  cases  of  general 
debility  and  weakness.  Tha  accommodations  are  good,  and  the  roads  in 
the  vicinity  lead  through  pleasant  scenery,  while  the  fishing  in  the  Cone- 
doguinet  and  its  tributaries  affords  fair  sport  This  is  a  favorite  resort 
for  families  from  Phila.,  Harrisburg,  and  Baltimore. 

The  Perry  Warm  Springe  are  14  M.  N.  of  Carlisle,  by  a  road  which 
crosses  the  Blue  Mt.  at  'Sterrett's  Gap,  affording  pleasant  views  of  the 
Cumberland  Valley  (stages  every  afternoon).  The  waters  issue  from  the 
base  of  Quaker  Hill,  in  the  deep  glen  under  Mt.  Pisgah  nd  are  chalybeate 
in  their  properties,  containing  carbonate  of  iron  and  an  e.y  :;e88  of  carboniC' 
acid  gas.  The  thermal  waters  maintain  a  temperature  of  70°,  and  are 
much  used  for  bathing,  as  thus  applied  being  beneficial  in  cases  ot  cu- 
taneous diseases  (taken  internally  they  are  aperient  and  diuretic).  The 
hotel  is  very  low  in  its  prices,  and  is  situated  amid  pleasant  hill-scenery 
near  Sherman's  Creek. 

The  Martinsburg  train  passes  S.  W.  from  Carlisle,  with  fine  mt.  views 
on  either  hand,  beyond  the  rich  and  arable  valley.  On  the  r.  front  is  the 
bold  peak  of  the  Blue  Mt,  which  bounds  Doubling  Gap  on  the  S.  Neto- 
viUe  (Big  Spring  Hotel;  Logan  House)  has  nearly  2,000  inhabitants  and 
6  churches,  and  is  the  shipping-point  for  a  wide  farming  district.  Stages 
run  thence  to  the  Doubling  Oap  Springs  (sulphur- water),  near  the  noble 
scenery  of  the  Doubling  Gap,  a  great  cul-de-aac  which  is  formed  by  a  loop 
in  the  Blue  Mt  6  M.  long.    The  trainnow  xqhb  S.  W.  to  Shippeni burg 


876     lUmU68, 


CHAMBEBSBURO. 


'   i 


(Skerman  Hcnue),  an  ancient  borongh  of  nearly  8,000  inhabitants,  with  7 
churches.  It  is  a  grain  market  and  shipping-point  for  the  populous  rural 
districts  in  the  vicinity,  and  has  a  large  water-power  on  the  Middle  Spring. 
The  CumberUnd  Valley  Normal  School  is  ^  M.  N.,  on  a  commanding  hill 
(seen  from  the  railroad,  on  the  r.  hand);  and  at  Middle  Spring  are  pro- 
ductive papyrus-mills.  Roads  run  thence  12  - 15  M.  N.  W.  to  the  Am- 
berson  and  Path  Valleys,  between  the  Kittatinny  and  Tuscarora  Mts. 

At  Scotland  the  train  crosses  the  Conococheague  Creek,  which  is  fol- 
lowed to  Ohamberaburg  {Mansion  Howie  ;  Montgomery  ;  Washington), 
the  capital  of  Franklin  County.  It  is  a  borough  of  7,000  inhabitants, 
with  8  churches  and  manufactories  of  cotton  and  woollen  goods,  paper, 
and  iron.  It  is  favorably  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Falling  Spring 
and  the  Conecocheague  Creek,  in  one  of  the  richest  districts  of  the  Cum- 
berland Valley,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  populous  farming-country.  ML 
Pamell  lies  to  the  W.,  and  commands  a  beautiful  valley  view. 

Steigea  ran  daily  to  Gettysburg,  ascending  the  defiles  between  Mt  Alto,  Rooky 
Mt,  and  Chestnut  Bidge,  and  crossing  the  cold  highlands  of  Green  Bidge.  They 
«!ipart  early  in  the  morning,  and  reach  Gettysburg  in  6  hrs.  (fare,  8  2).  Stages 
run  every  afternoon  22  M.  W.  across  the  Cove  Mt.  to  McCannehburfi,  tne  capital 
of  the  mountain  county  of  Fulton.  There  are  tri-weekly  stages  to  Waynesboro' 
(Waynesboro'  Hotel ;  Washington),  16  M.  8.  E.,  situated  on  South  Mt.,  over  Uie 
Antietam  Creek. 

The  Mount  Alto  Branch  trains  leave  Chambersbunr  twice  daily,  and  run  in  1  hr. 
B.  E.  to  the  Mount  Alto  Iron-Works  ^Shanks'  Hotel),  situated  in  the  Valley  of  a 
Thousand  Springs,  under  the  dark  riages  of  Mount  Alto. 

The  SoiUhem  Penn.  Branch  trains  leave  Chambersburg  twice  daily, 
diverging  from  the  C.  V.  K.  B.  below  Marion.  Station!.  —  Chambers- 
burg; Marion,  6  M. ;  Mercersburg,  21;  Loudon,  23;  Richmond,  26. 
Xeroersbnrg  {Old  Mansion  House)  is  a  small  village  which  is  reached  by 
a  secondary  branch  railroad,  and  is  2  -  3  M.  from  the  base  of  the  North 
Mt  of  the  Tuscarora  range.  It  is  famotis  as  the  place  whence  emanated 
the  "  Mercersburg  System  of  Theology,"  which  was  originated  and  de- 
fended by  Dr.  Nevin  (President  of  Marshall  College),  in  the  Mercersburg 
Review.  Marshall  College  was  removed  to  Lancaster  in  1853;  and  in 
1865  the  German  Reformed  Church  founded  the  M&rcersJmrg  College, 
whose  halls  are  S.  of  the  village,  near  St.  John's  Lutheran  Church  (6  pro- 
fessors and  112  students).  To  the  E.  are  the  buildings  of  the  Theological 
Seminary  of  the  Ghirman  Reformed  Church.  The  8.  Penn.  R.  R'  runs  N. 
through  Cove  Gap  into  the  long  town  of  Metal,  which  lies  in  the  Path 
Valley,  between  the  Kittatinny  and  Tuscarora  Mts.  In  a  desolate  valley 
of  Cove  Gap  was  bom  James  Buchanan,  15th  President  of  the  U.  S.  The 
stages  to  McConnelsburg  leave  the  station  of  Loudon,  crossing  the  Cove 
Mt.  in:>-7M.  ^    V 

Chambersburg  was  founded  by  Col.  Ben.  Chambers  in  178,0,  and  was  laid  out 
as  k  town  in  1760.  It  was  much  annoyed  by  hostile  Indians  in  1755  -  56,  but  was 
held  fearlessly  by  the  Scotch-Irish  settlers  of  the  valley*  This  brave  and  patdotie 


HAQEBSTOWN. 


JtouU  S9,      377 


nee  hM  long  stno«  been  crowded  out  of  the  region  by  the  Penneylvuiia  Dutch, « 

Seople  to  whom  wealth  and  uoinfort  are  the  paramount  ol\]ects  of  attraction  and 
esire.  In  1863  Chamliersburg  was  captured  by  Southern  cavalry,  and  was 
doomed  to  the  torch.  Fires  were  set  in  various  purts  of  the  borough,  and  prop- 
erty to  the  value  of  •2,000.000  was  destroyed.  This  severe  measure  was  in  retail- 
ation  for  the  (alleged)  similar  acts  of  the  national  armies  in  the  insurgent  States. 
The  borougli  was  speedily  rebuilt  in  a  more  compact  and  oity-like  form  than  it 
bore  before  the  contlagration. 

The  Martinsburg  train  runs  S.  W.  from  Chambersburg  by  the  Moravian 
hamlet  of  Marion  (Union  Hotel)  and  the  Dunkard  village  near  Kauf- 
mann'fl  station,  and  reaches  OreenOMtle  (Hays'  Home  ;  Adanu),  whence 
dail^  stages  run  9  M.  S.  K  to  Waynesboro'  and  11  M.  N.  W.  to  Mercersbuig. 
Greencastle  has  1,650  inhabitants,  and  is  built  around  a  public  square  at 
the  intersection  of  Carlisle  and  Baltimore  Sts.  It  is  the  centre  of  a  rich 
and  productive  farming  country.  6  M.  S.  the  train  passes  Mason  k  Dixon, 
and  enters  the  State  of  Maryland. 

6  M.  beyond  the  State  line  the  train  reaches  HsgeritoWB  ( Washington 
House),  the  capital  of  Washington  County,  a  town  of  5,779  inhabitants, 
where  the  present  route  is  intersected  by  the  Western  Md.  R.  B.  During 
the  Secession  War  several  well-fought  actions  occurred  about  this  town. 
In  July,  1863,  6  regiments  of  U.  S.  cavalry  attacked  the  rebel  garrison 
here,  but  were  repulsed  with  severe  loss,  after  a  combat  in  the  streets.  5 
days  later  the  town  was  carried  by  an  attack  of  national  infantry. 

The  train  now  runs  S.  W.  to  Williamsport,  where  the  Southern  army, 
retreating  after  its  defeat  at  Gettysburg  (see  page  380),  turned  at  bay  and 
checked  the  pursuit  of  the  victors.  At  Falling  Waters  (near  this  point) 
the  5th  Michigan  Cavalry  charged  over  a  line  of  works  and  captured  1,200 
men,  3  battle-flags,  and  2  cannon.  The  train  crosses  the  Potomac  on  a 
long  bridge,  and  runs  down  through  Berkeley  County  ( W.  Va. ),  to  its  June- 
tion  with  the  Bait,  k  Ohio  R.  B.  at  Martinibiirg  (see  Boute  65). 

59.  Philadelphia  to  Gettysbnrg^. 

By  the  Penn.  R.  R.  to  Lancaster,  and  thence  by  a  branch  line  to  Tork.  The 
Northern  Central  R.  R.  is  followed  to  Hanover  Junction,  whence  short  local  rail- 
roads lead  W.  to  Gettysburg.     L  new  route  is  now  open  fl:om  York. 

X.  Y.  to  Harrisburg  by  Route  36,  and  thence  to  Gettysburg  by  the  N.  Central 
R.  R.,  etc.  Washington  to  Gettysburg  by  the  Bait.  &  Potomac  and  N.  Central 
It.  Rs.,  etc.  fares.  — Phila.  to  Gettysburg,  $4.52;  Washington  to  Gettysburg, 
84 :  New  York  to  Gettysburg,  $7.51 ;  Pittsburgh  to  Gettysburg,  $10.16. 

Stations*  —  Philadelphia;  CoatesviUe,  39  M.;  I^Jincaster,  69 ;  Rohrerstown,  72 ; 
Mountville,  76;  Columbia,  81;  Wrightsville,82;  Ewing,  84;  Garver's  Lane,  86; 
Hershey's,  88  ;  Campbell's,  90  ;  Turnpike,  92  ;  York,  95 ;  Olatfelter's,  103 ;  Han- 
over Junction,  106 ;  Strickhauser's,  108 ;  Cold  Spring,  109 ;  Jefferson,  110 ;  Porter's, 
114 :  Smith's,  116 ;  Hanover,  119;  Valley,  123 ;  Oxford,  125 ;  Gulden's,  131 ;  Granite, 
132 ;  Gettysburg,  136. 

Philadelphia  to  Lancaster,  see  Boute  50. 

From  Lancaster  the  train  runs  W.  across  the  fertile  and  densely  pop- 
ulated plains  of  Hempfield,  and  in  35  min.  reaches  Colmnbia  (Con- 
titiental  Hotel),  a  wealthy  borough  of  6,461  inhabitants,  with  12  churches 


I 


178     Roiii$S9, 


TOBK. 


fnd  large  iron-worki.  It  U  the  chief  depot  for  the  lumber  of  the  Bniqiie- 
l^anoa  region,  and  i»  built  on  the  high,  eloping  bank  of  the  river,  which 
la  over  1  M.  wide,  and  ia  atudded  with  small  islands.  Beautiful  views 
ire  enjoyed  from  the  hills  in  the  vicinity,  including  the  rich  limestone 
plains  of  Lancaster  Ck>nnty  and  the  picturesque  river.  Crossing  the  bridge 
(I4  M.  long),  the  train  reaches  WrightmnlUf  which  was  one  of  the  chief 
points  urged  for  the  location  of  the  national  capital  when  the  Republic 
was  founded.  To  this  point  advanced  the  splendid  infantry  of  Early's 
tebel  division,  in  June,  1863.  A  strong  force  of  Penn.  militia  were 
garrisoAed  at  the  fortifications  about  the  bridge-head,  but  the  hostile 
artillery  drove  them  from  the  works ;  and  in  the  retreat  they  burnt  the 
bridge,  thus  preventing  the  farther  advance  of  the  invaders.  11  M.  be- 
yond Wrightsville  the  train  reaches  York  {National  Hotel;  York  House), 
ft  borough  of  over  11,000  inhabitants,  with  18  churches  and  8  banks.  It 
is  well  and  compactly  built,  and  has  many  church-spires;  while  the  Court 
House  is  a  fine  granite  building  in  classic  architecture.  There  are  several 
Urge  manufactories,  but  the  borough  is  chiefly  noted  as  the  iharket-town 
for  ft  wide  extent  of  populous  German  farm-hamlets.  It  is' situated  on 
CSodoms  Creek,  and  the  chief  streets  (Main  and  George)  intersect  each 
ether  at  the  Central  Square.  The  Codorus  Valley  was  settled  in  1733  by 
Lutherans  ftom  Wurtemberg,  and  York  was  founded  in  1740;  after  which 
(in  1777-78)  the  Continental  Congress  held  its  sessions  here  for  9  months. 
Ihiring  the  rebel  invasion  of  Penn.  (May,  1863),  this  borough  was  dis- 
honored by  the  officious  timidity  of  its  magistrates,  who  rode  over  7  M. 
to  the  camp  of  the  Confederates,  to  whom  they  surrendered  the  place 
without  summons.  Early  soon  occupied  York  (the  largest  Northern  town 
ever  taken  by  the  insui^nts)  with  10,000  men,  and  levied  a  contribu- 
tion of  f  100,000  on  the  citizens.  The  railroad  works  and  bridges  in  the 
vicinity  were  destroyed;  but  private  property  was  carefully  guarded,  and 
remained  intact. 

The  traveller  passes  S.  W.  from  York  up  the  Codorus  Valley  on  the  N. 
Central  B.  B.,  and  at  Hanover  Junction  takes  the  Hanover  Branch  B.  B. 
Hanover  is  a  borough  of  nearly  2,000  inhabitants,  with  6  churches,  3 
papers,  and  2  banks.  While  marching  through  this  place,  on  June  28, 
1863,  Kilpatrick's  division  of  U.  S.  cavalry  was  suddenly  and  furiously 
attacked  by  a  lai^e  force  of  Southern  horsemen,  under  Gen.  Stuart.  A 
battle  of  4  hours'  duration  ensued,  and  was  only  terminated  by  the  anival 
of  a  fresh  Federal  brigade,  under  Gen.  Custer. 

The  York  Sulphur  Springs  ( York  J^mngs  Hotel)  are  reached  by  stage 
from  Oxford  station,  beyond  Hanover,  in  9  M.  (also  by  carriage  from 
Gettysburg  in  12  - 14  M.).  They  contain  sulphates  of  lime  and  magnesia 
and  muriate  of  soda,  and  there  is  a  chalybeate  spring  in  the  vicinity. 
O^iese  mineral  waters  were  discovered  in  1790,  and  were  for  many  yean 


I  • 


GETTYSBURG. 


ll<mU69.    379 


ir,  which 
ul  views 
imestone 
le  bridge 
the  chief 
Republic 
)f  Early's 
itia  were 
le  hostile 
burnt  the 
11  M.  be- 
*  House), 
tanks.    It 
the  Court 
ire  several 
xket-town 
ituated  on 
rsect  each 
n  1733  by 
iter  which 
'9  months. 

was  dis- 

over  7  M. 

the  place 

hem  town 

contribu- 
Iges  in  the 
ardedf  and 

on  the  N. 
mch  R.  R. 
hurches,  3 
n  June  28, 
I  furiously 
Stuart.  A 
the  anival 

>d  by  stage 
Tiage  from 
i  magnesia 
le  vicinity, 
paany  years 


a  favorite  resort  for  Baltimore  families.    They  are  now  less  visited  than 
formerly. 

Octtyiburg  {Eagle  Uotel ;  Keystone  House)  is  the  terminus  of  the 
railroad,  and  is  a  quiet  borough  of  abttut  3,300  inhabitants,  with  8 
ohurches,  2  banks,  and  3  newKpapers.  It  is  situated  on  a  fertile  plain 
amid  a  populous  farming  country,  andis  surrounded  by  low  ridges.  Penn- 
sylvania  College  (founded  in  1832)  is  located  here,  and  has  imposing  build> 
ings  in  classic  architecture.  There  are  8  professors  and  133  students,  and 
tlie  library  contains  17,450  volumes.  The  Lutheran  Theological  Seminary 
has  3  professors  and  43  students  (400  alumni),  with  a  library  of  12,000 
volumes.  The  view  from  its  cupola  (courteously  open  to  visitors)  over- 
looks the  borough  and  its  vicinity  for  many  leagues,  with  Bear  Mt.  in  the 
N.,  and  the  bold  and  diversified  Green  Ridge  in  the  W. 

The  Katalyiine  Spring  {* Springs  Hotel;  250  guests;  $3  a  day; 
$15-20  a  week)  is  reached  by  carriage  in  11  M.  from  the  borougn. 
The  waters  are  cold,  colorless,  and  tasteless,  and  are  classed  with  those 
of  Vichy  and  Pyrmont  They  are  alkaline  in  character,  each  gallon  con- 
taining 7  grains  of  sulphate  of  magnesia,  5  of  carbonate  of  lime,  2^  of 
sulphate  of  soda,  and  2  of  silicic  acid,  and  are  said  to  be  ellicacious  in 
cases  of  gout,  rheumatism,  dyspepsia,  diabetes,  and  in  dissolving  calculi 
and  chalkstone  concretions. 

There  are  many  pleasant  drives  in  the  vicinity  of  Gettysburg,  amid 
picturesque  rural  scenery,  and  through  scenes  of  the  deepest  historic 
interest.  .  The  Seminary  Ridge  is  W.  of  the  town;  and  the  Chambers- 
burg  road  leads  thence,  by  Lee's  Head-quarters  (back  of  the  Seminary), 
to  Herr's  Tavern  and  the  vicinity  of  the  Katalyeine  Spring.  The  Millers- 
town  road  leads  to  Willoughby  Run  and  Bream's  Tavern.  Round  Top 
is  reached  by  the  EmmittsbnrgorTaneytown  road.  Visitors  who  wish  to 
make  a  close  study  of  the  battle-field  should  buy  Batchelder's  "  (Gettys- 
burg :  "What  to  see,  and  how  to  see  it "  (with  large  topographical  map). 
.  The  *  Soldiers'  Kational  Cemetery  is  the  most  interesting  point  in 
this  vicinity.  Just  after  the  battle  an  association  was  formed  by  the 
governors  of  the  Northern  States,  under  whose  auspices  the  remains  of 
the  patriot  dead  were  removed  from  the  groves  and  heights,  valleys  and 
fields,  where  they  had  fallen,  and  were  buried  on  the  lofty  ridge  of  Ceme- 
tery HilL  The  Confederate  dead  mostly  lie  on  the  wide  field,  except 
such  as  have  been  removed  to  the  Hollywood  Cemetery,  in  Richmond. 
Nearly  3,600  National  soldiers  are  buried  here  in  semicircular  lines  whose 
centre  is  occupied  by  the  monument.  The  dead  of  each  State  are  ranged 
in  sections,  separated  by  radiating  pathways,  and  contmuons  lines  of 
granite  blocks  are  placed  at  the  heads  of  the  graves,  and  marked  with  the 
names  and  regiments  of  the  fallen  heroes.  There  are  18  States  repre- 
sented, from  Maine  and  Delaware  to  Miimesota;  of  which  New  York  has 


^1: 


,iil 


'ii 


U 


380     JtouUSB,      BATTLE  OF  GETTYSBURG. 

867,  and  Pennsylvania  has  534.  Near  the  entrance  of  the  cemetery  is  a 
semi-colossal  bronze  *  statue  of  Maj.-Gen.  Reynolds,  who  was  killed 
while  leading  the  First  Corps  in  the  battle.  It  was  designed  by  Ward, 
and  cast  from  condemned  cannon,  and  rests  on  a  high  pedestal  of  Qaincy 
granite.  The  *  National  Monameiit  is  an  imposing  memorial  which 
stands  in  the  centre  of  the  lines  of  the  dead.  It  is  of  white  Westerly 
(R.  I.)  granite,  60  ft.  high,  and  is  crowned  by  a  colossal  marble  statue 
of  Liberty,  holding  the  laurel-wreath  and  the  sword.  There  are  4  but- 
tresses about  the  base  of  the  column,  bearing  colossal  marble  statues  of 
War  (an  American  soldier),  History  (recording  the  achievements  of  the 
hero),  PSace  (a  stalwart  mechanic),  and  Plenty  (a  female  figure,  with 
grain  and  fruits).  On  the  base  of  the  monument  are  carved  a  fuw  of  the 
grand  and  solemn  words  of  President  Lincoln,  delivered  here  in  Novem-, 
ber,  1863. 

"  It  is  rather  for  us  to  be  here  dedicated  to  the  gi'eat  task  remaining  before  us, 
—  that  from  these  honored  dead  we  take  increased  devotion  to  the  cause  for  which 
they  gave  the  last  full  measure  of  devotion, — that  we  here  highly  resolve  that 
these  dead  shall  not  have  died  in  vain, — that  this  nation,  under  God,  shall  have  a 
new  birth  of  f^edom,  —  and  that  the  government  of  the  people,  by  the  i>eople,  and 
for  the  people,  shall  not  perish  from  the  earth." 

The  Battle  of  Gettysburg. 

Shortly  after  the  sanguinary  defeat  of  the  National  army  at  Chancellorsville, 
Vs.  (May,  1863),  Gen.  Lee  advanced  rapidly  into  Maryland  and  Penn.  at  the  head 
of  a  powerful  and  compact  army  of  Southern  veterans.  The  Cumberland  Valley 
towns  fell  in  succession  before  the  invading  host,  the  Lower  Susquehanna  Valley 
was  overrun,  and  consternation  filled  the  adjacent  States.  It  was  even  thought 
possible  that  the  Confederate  cavalry  would  water  their  horses  in  the  Delaware 
and  the  Hudson,  and  lines  of  fortifications  were  thrown  up  before  Pittsburgh, 
Harrisburg,  and  Philadelphia  (whence  much  valuable  property  was  sent  to  the 
more  remote  North).  Where  the  blow  would  fall  on  one  could  tell,  and  the  gather- 
ing militia  of  the  adjacent  States  were  scattered  over  such  wide  lines  of  defence 
as  to  be  of  but  little  avail.  Meantime  the  Array  of  the  Potomac,  Uncertain  of  the 
plans  and  whereabouts  of  the  enemy,  was  endeavoring  to  cover  the  cities  of  Balti- 
more, Philadelphia,  and  Washington,  and  to  impede  the  hostile  advance. 

On  the  1st  of  July,  1863,  Hill's  corps  descended  from  their  camps  in  the  mts., 
and  attacked  the  National  cavalry  beyond  Herr's  Tavern,  driving  them  in  towards 
Gettysburg.  A  part  of  the  First  Corps  \ras  soon  brought  up,  and  the  famous 
"  Iron  Brigade  "  (2d,  6th,  and  7th  Wis.,  19th  Ind.,  and  24th  Mich.)  swept  into  the 
foi-est  E.  of  the  present  Springs  Hotel  and  routed  Archer's  brigade  (1st,  7th,  and 
14th  Tenn.,  5th  and  13th  Ala.),  after  a  terrific  struggle  in  which  Gen.  Reynolds 
was  killed  and  Qen.  Archer  was  made  prisoner.  Tlie  2d  Miss,  was  captured  on 
the  r.,  but  the  National  lines  were  forced  back  slowly  by  overwhelming  nun»bers. 
Powerful  reinforcements  now  joined  both  combatants,  and  Southern  batteries  be- 
gan to  enfilade  the  11th  Corps  from  Oak  Hill.  A  North  Carolina  brigade  was  cap- 
tured en  masse  and  hurried  to  the  rear,  and  the  German  troops  of  the  11th  Corps 
held  their  positions  well.  But  Early's  divison  now  flanked  the  National  line  on 
the  Harrisburg  road  and  the  Georgia  and  Louisiana  brigades  made  a  resistless 
attack.  Outflanked  and  overpowered,  the  Union  army  fell  back  without  orders, 
and  huddled  into  Gettysburg.  Hoke's  North  Carolina  brigade  routed  Coster's 
New-Yorkers  and  swept  through  the  streets,  capturing  great  numbers  of  prison- 
ers. Smith's  brigade  lay  on  Cemetery  Hill  as  a  reserve,  and  here  the  broken 
divisions  were  re-fV>rmed,  while  every  part  of  the  hill  was  garnished  with  cannon, 
which  were  ordered  into  position  as  fast  as  they  came  in  from  the  rout  Troops 
were  hurried  on  to  the  field  all  night  long,  by  both  of  the  combatants. 


I  ft 
■fr 


W 


BATTLE  OF  GETTYSBURG.      R<mU69.      381 


At  noon  on  the  2d  of  Jnly.  Sickles's  8d  Corps  advanced  and  formed  on  the  low 
ridge  above  the  Emmittsbuiv  road  ;  but  the  L  flank  was  attacked  at  4  p.  m.,  and 
a  desperate  struggle  occurreif  about  the  Devil's  Men  and  the  rugged  peak  of  Little 
Round  Top.  The  rebel  troops  engaged  were  mostly  from  Texas  and  tlie  Oulf 
States,  and  fought  with  desperate  fury,  pressing  back  the  National  lines  and 
sweeping  over  tlie  guns.  Sickles's  men  fought  well,  but  were  flanked  and  forced 
back  from  their  positions,  and  retired  sullenly,  atter  sulfering  terrible  losses. 
Humphrey's  division  of  New  York  and  New  England  men  checked  the  attack  of 
the  Alabama,  Florida,  and  Mississippi  brigades  until  new  lines  were  formed  on 
Cemetery  Hill,  and  the  position  on  Little  Round  Top  was  made  secure.  At  late 
twilight  the  Louisiana  and  North  Carolina  brigades  emerged  from  the  streets  of 
Gettysburg  and  made  a  gallant  charge  on  East  Cemetery  Hill,  the  r.  of  the. Na- 
tional line.  By  their  impetuous  and  unexpected  rush  the  infantry  supports  were 
scattered  and  the  batteries  in  position  were  captured.  But  the  flanking  artillery 
opened  a  hot  Are  at  short  range  with  double-shotted  canister;  the  33d  Mass. 
poured  in  withering  volleys,  and  Carroll's  men  of  Ohio,  W.  Va.,  and  Penn.  charged 
down  upon  the  enemy  and  pressed  them  from  the  hill.  The  National  batteries  at 
this  point  had  re(:eived  positive  orders  not  to  limber  up  and  retire,  but  "  to  fight 
to  the  last "  ;  and  the  hand-to-hand  contest  among  the  guns  was  one  of  tlie  most 
terrible  episodes  of  the  battle.  Later  in  the  night  Johnson's  division  of  Southern 
troops  attacked  tlie  extreme  right,  which  was  held  by  a  New  York  brigade,  and 
succeeded  in  carrying  the  works. 

At  4  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  July  3,  a  heavy  flre  was  opened  by  the  artillery 
of  the  12th  Corps  on  the  position  of  Johnson's  division  (on  the  extreme  r.),  and  a 
sharp  infantry  action  followed,  at  whose  close  the  Union  lines  were  re-established 
in  their  advanced  works.  The  fighting  on  the  right  was  over  at  11  o'clock,  and 
then  an  ominous  quiet  settled  over  the  field.  Lee  was  massing  his  artillery 
on  Seminar.  Ridge,  opposite  the  National  left  centre  ;  and  at  1  o'clock  he  opened 
a  cannonade,  which  has  been  called  by  veteran  artillerists  the  most  tremendous 
exhibition  in  the  historj'  of  war  of  the  power  of  field-batteries.  Cemetery  Ridge 
was  swept  for  2  hours  by  a  storm  of  shot  and  sliell ;  the  slopes  were  ploughed  up 
on  every  side  by  the  plunging  bolts ;  and  the  roar  of  145  rebel  guns  filled  the  air. 
The  National  infantry  was  saved  from  annihilation  by  lying  down  in  the  hollows 
of  tli0  ridge  ;  but  the  artillery  suffered  fearfully,  several  caissons  were  blown  up, 
and  2  batteries  were  totally  demolislied.  80  guns  replied  to  the  hostile  cannonade, 
with  instructions  to  slowly  slacken  their  fire.  Gen.  Lee,  believing  that  tho  Na- 
tional artillei-y  had  been  destroyed  and  the  supports  cut  to  pieces,  ordered  a  grand 
charge  by  tlie  Hite  of  the  army,  and  3  columns,  containing  15,000  men,  advanced 
firom  Seminary  Ridge  into  the  valley.  The  centre  was  held  by  Pickett,  with  10 
veteran  regiments  of  Virginians  ;  the  South  Carolina  and  Georgia  brigades  were 
on  the  left,  and  the  Florida  and  Alabama  brigades  were  on  the  right.  The  firing 
ceased,  and  the  attention  of  both  armies  was  concentrated  on  the  massive  column 
of  attack.  The  objective  point  was  a  clump  of  trees  in  the  rear  of  the  lines,  boldly 
outlined  against  tlie  clear  sky ;  and  the  Confederate  divisions  advanced  thither- 
ward in  perfect  silence,  and  with  the  regularity  of  a  dress-parade.  Meeting  the 
skirmish  lines  of  the  U.  S.  sharpshooters  near  the  Emraittsburg  road,  Pickett 
brushed  them  away  like  a  swarm  of  flies,  and  his  men  started  up  the  heights  at 
the  step  of  the  charge.  Then  the  National  batteries  opened,  sweeping  the  valley 
with  a  scathing  shower  of  grape  and  canister;  the  thousands  of  rifles  of  Hancock's 
corps  commenced  a  sharp  fusilade  ;  and  section  after  section  of  artillery  from  the 
right  and  left  wheeled  into  new  positions  and  converged  their  flre  on  tlie  advan- 
cing host.  But  nothing  short  of  utter  anniliilation  could  stay  Pickett's  heroic 
Virginians  :  thousands  fell,  but  other  tliousands  pressed  on,  swept  over  the  Na- 
tional fortifications,  took  tlie  guns,  and  cut  the  army  in  two  at  tlie  copse  of  trees 
"to  which  a  few  —  it  may  be  a  score  or  two  —  of  the  boldest  and  bravest  that  led 
the  van  of  Pickett's  charging  column  on  the  8d  of  July  attained.  Thus  far  the 
swelling  sui-ge  of  invasion  threw  its  spray,  dashing  itself  to  pieces  on  the  rocky 
bulwark  of  Northern  valor.  Let  us  call  tliis  the  high-water  mark  of  the  Rebel- 
lion." It  was  but  for  a  moment ;  Hall's  Mass.  and  N.  Y.  troops  reinforced  Webb's 
retreating  Pen nsylvanians  and  retook  the  artillery  ;  Hays's  division  opened  a  close 
enfilading  fire  with  musketry ;  and  Stannard's  Vermont  brigade  rose  from  their 
sheltered  position  far  in  ft>ont  of  the  Union  line,  and  destroyed  a  supporting 
column  by  a  close  and  unexpected  flank  fire.  Howard's  artillery,  massed  on  Ceme- 
tery Hill,  shattered  the  South-Caroliniaua ;  the  right  wing  of  the  assault  WM 


ii 
1 


I 


382      RauUeO,     BATPLE  OF  GETTTSBURO. 

l>roken ;  and  fhe  Hiinrlvon  of  the  Virginia  division,  withering  under  the  eloae 
convergent  Are,  threw  down  their  arms  and  surrendered. 

Tlie  broken  remains  of  that  superb  Southern  infantry  drifted  back  to  Seminanr 
Ridge;  and  the  Pennsylvania  Reserves  began  a  successful  advance  on  the  left 
wing  which  was  only  terminated  by  nightfall.  During  the  night  the  Confederate 
army  retreated  through  the  passes  of  the  South  Mt. ,  and  soon  reached  Virginia, 
though  mucli  harassed  by  the  National  cavalry. 

The  number  of  men  engaged  in  this  grand  battle  is  variously  estimated,  but 
the  best  accounts  give  80,000  Nationals  and  70,000  Confederates  (others  claim  that 
there  were  100,000  Nationals  and  91,000  Confederates).  The  National  loss  in  the 
8  days'  battle  was  2,334  killed,  13,733  wounded,  and  6.643  missing.  The  Confed- 
erate loss  was  about  18,000  killed  and  wounded,  and  13,620  prisoners. 

60.  Baltimore  to  Central  New  York. 

By  the  Northern  Central  R.  R.,  whose  N>  terminus  is  at  Canandaigua,  on  the 
K.  Y.  Central  9.  R.  This  is  the  favorite  route  for  travellers  from  the  South  on 
the  way  to  Watkins  Glen  and  Niagara  FhUs.  The  latter  is  reached  eitlier  by  pass- 
ing through  to  Canandaigua  and  taking  the  N.  Y.  Central ;  by  changing  on  to  the 
Erie  Railway  at  Elmira ;  or  by  divei-ging  ttom  Williamsport  to  Elnporium  and 
Buffalo.  The  line  runs  Pullman  parlor  and  sleeping  cars,  and  traverses  the  rich 
and  thicldy  settled  Susquehanna  Valley,  and  the  wild  and  uninhabited  Allegheny 
Mountain  region.  Baltimore  to  Harrisbuig,  3^  hrs. ;  to  Williamsport,  8^  hrs. ; 
to  Elmira,  12^  hrs. ;  to  Watkins  Glen,  13f  hrs. ;  to  Canandaigua,  16  hrs. ;  to 
Rochester,  18  hrs. ;  to  Niagara  Falls,  22^-24  hrs. 

Stations.  —  Baltimore ;  B.  &  P.  R.  R.  Junction,  1  M.  ;  Mt  Vernon,  2 ;  Relay, 
7;  Timonium,  12;  Cockeysville,  15;  Sparks',  lOf;  Monkton,  23;  Parkton,  29; 
Freeland's,  34^;  Glenrock,  42;  Hanover  Junction,  46^;  Glatfelter's,  49;  York, 
57:i;  Conewago,  67;  Goldsboro',  72^;  Red  Bank,  78^;  Bridgeport,  83i  (Harris- 
burg,  84J);  Pairview,  85i;  Marysville,  91 ;  Dauphin,  92^;  Clark's  Ferry,  99; 
Halifax,  105^;  Miliersburg,  ill;  Liverpool,  114;  Mahantango,  118;  Georgetown, 
121i ;  Trevorton  Junction,  126J ;  Fisher's  Ferry,  131 ;  Selinsgrove,  133 ;  Sunbury, 
138 ;  Northumberland,  140 ;  Lewisburg  Junction,  147 ;  Catawissa  Junction,  150 ; 
Milton,  151 ;  Watsontown,  155 ;  Dewart,  157 ;  Montgomery,  162 ;  Muncy,  166 ; 
Williamsport,  178;  Cogan  Valley,  187;  Crescent,  188 1;  Ti-out  Run,  192;  Bodine's, 
198 ;  Ralston,  202 ;  Roaring  Branch.  206^ ;  Carpenter's,  212 ;  Canton,  218 ;  Min- 
nequa,  219^  ;  Alba,  221^  ;  W.  Granville,  225  ;  Troy,  231 ;  Columbia  Cross  Roads, 
235^;  Snediker's,  240^;  Gillett's,  243i  ;  State  Line,  247;  Elmira,  256;  Horse 
Heads,  262 ;  Pine  Valley,  266 ;  Millport,  269  ;  Croton,  271 ;  Havana,  275 ;  Wat- 
kins, 278 ;  Rock  Stream,  286 ;  Starkey,  289 ;  Himrod's,  203 ;  Milo,  297 ;  Penn 
Yan,  301 ;  Benton,  305 ;  Bellona,  307 ;  Hail's,  311 ;  Gorham,  314 ;  Hopewell,  319 ; 
Canandaigua,  325  (Rochester,  254 ;  BufMo,  422 ;  Niagara  Falls,  431). 

The  train  leaves  the  Northern  Central  R.  B.  station  in  Baltimore,  and 
runs  out  by  the  Bait.  &  Potomac  Junction,  whence  it  continues  to  the  N. 
by  the  rural  stations  of  Baltimore  County,  passing  the  cotton-mills  at 
Woodbury  and  the  low  shores  of  Lake  Roland.  At  Relay  the  Western 
Maryland  R.  R.  diverges  to  the  W.  to  Westminster  and  Hagerstown, 
and  beyond  Freelands  the  line  enters  Pennsylvania.  From  Hanover 
Junction  a  railroad  runs  W.  to  Gettysburg  in  30  M.  (see  Route  59) ;  and 
beyond  Glatfelter's  the  train  reaches  the  wealthy  borough  of  York  (see 
page  378),  whose  streets  are  traversed  for  a  considerable  distance.  De- 
scending the  rich  Codprus  Valley,  the  traveller  soon  sees  the  rounded 
ridges  of  the  South  Mt.  on  the  r.,  and  turns,  to  the  N.  W.  along  the  broad 
Susqiiehanna  River.  Beyond  the  Conewago  Creek,  York  Haven  is  passed, 
and  long  islands  are  seen  on  the  r. ;  while  above  Gk>ldsboro'  the  borough 


MINNEQUA  SPRINGS.  ^ouUeO,      383 


of  Middletown  is  seen  on  the  opposite  shore.  Thus  following  the  noble 
river,  the  trair  on  reaches  Bridgeport,  whence  a  long  brieve  conducts  to 
Harriiburg,  -i  capital  of  Penn.  (see  page  342).  Beyond  Bridgeport 
fine  views  of  Uarrisburg  are  enjoyed ;  and  the  Conedogoinet  Creek  is 
passed  near  the  base  of  the  Bine  Mt.,  where  the  line  traverses  a  wide  gap 
between  picturesque  rot. -promontories. 

Harrisburg  to  Williamsport,  see  pages  366,  367  (Route  55). 

From  Williamsport  the  line  ascends  the  Lycoming  Oeek  through 
narrow  gorges  in  a  thinly  settled  region.  Near  Trout  Xun,  Bobst  Mt. 
looms  up  on  the  1.,  and  a  road  leads  E.  to  Rose  Valley.  Beyond  the  coal- 
abounding  district  of  Balston,  the  line  passes  near  the  Towanda  Mts.  and 
reaches  Miuuequa,  a  summer  resort  of  i-ecent  origin.  The  Minnaqiia 
Spring!  {*Minnequa  Springs  Hotel;  500  guests)  are  situated  in  a  cool 
mt.-glen,  1,445  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  are  surrounded  by  rugged  heights. 
The  adjacent  brooks  afford  good  fishing,  and  athletic  and  adventurous 
huntsmen  traverse  the  rugged  mts.  in  search  of  game.  The  waters  con- 
tain, in  each  gallon,  3^  grains  of  oxide  of  iron,  and  small  quantities  of 
the  carbonates  of  soda,  lime,  and  magnesia,  with  free  carbonic  acid;  and 
\  of  their  volume  is  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  The  hourly  flow  is  660 
gallons,  and  the  waters  are  beneficial  in  cases  of  dyspepsia,  consumption, 
rheumatism,  and  diseases  of  the  skin  and  liver. 

Beyond  'Alba  the  prosperous  rural  village  of  Troy  is  passed,  and  the 
train  speeds  away  to  the  N.,  across  Bradford  County,  and  enters  New 
York  State.  At  Elmira  (see  page  227)  the  Erie  Railway  is  intersected, 
and  the  present  route  runs  N.  to  the  great  summer  resorts  of  Havana  and 
Watkins  Olen  (see  page  208).  The  track  now  follows  the  W.  shore  of 
Seneca  Lake  for  12  M.,  with  pleasant  views  over  its  deep  still  waters  (see 
page  212).  At  Big  Stream  is  the  romantic  glen  of  the  same  name.  Stages 
run  from  Starkey  S.  W.  to  the  Crystal  Springs  (large  hotel  and  water- 
cure;  $8-14  a  week),  whose  waters  contain  carbonates  of  lime,  magnesia, 
and  iron,  chlorides  of  soda  and  lime,  and  a  large  amount  of  free  carbonic 
acid.  They  are  beneficial  in  cases  of  cutaneous  diseases,  dyspepsia,  neu- 
ralgia, etc.  The  hotel  is  pleasantly  located  near  the  head  of  the  Big 
Stream  Hollow,  and  Keuka  Lake  is  to  the  W. 

The  train  soon  reaches  Penn  Van,  the  capital  of  Yates  County,  a 
pleasant  village  at  the  foot  of  Keaka  Lake,  with  3,206  inhabitants,  6 
churches,  and  3  newspapers.  Steamboats  leave  this  point  at  9  a.  m.  and 
2.30  P.  M.,  and  ascend  the  lake  to  JIammondsport,  a  pretty  village 
whence  a  narrow-gauge  railroad  (3  trains  daily)  nms  up  Pleasant  Valley  to 
Bath,  on  the  Erie  Railway.  Hammondsport  is  the  centre  of  an  extensive 
district  of  vineyards,  which  cover  over  7,000  acres  and  yield  abundantly. 
The  deep  cellars  of  the  Ur>)ana  and  Pleasant  Valley  Wine  Companies  are 
worthy  of  a  visit,  and  contain  hundreds  of  thousands  of  bottles  of  native 


ii 


':i^  ii 


384    Route  60. 


KEUKA  LAKE. 


wines,  including  sweet  and  dry  Catawba,  claret,  Isabella,  and  choice  gold- 
seal  and  imperial  champagnes.  The  average  yield  is  3,000  pounds  of 
grapes  to  an  acre,  and  2  wine  companies  have  pressed  over  2,500  tons  in 
a  year.  This  lucrative  industry  lias  sprung  up  since  1851,  and  now  the 
Pleasant- Valley  wines  are  sent  to  remote  sections  of  the  country.  6 
M.  N.  of  Hammondsport  is  the  summer  resort  Icnown  as  the  Orove  Spring 
House.  Keuka  Lake  is  22  M.  long,  and  1^  M.  wide  at  its  broadest  point. 
It  is  718  ft.  above  the  sea,  and  277  ft.  above  Seneca  Lake  (which  is  but  7 
M.  distant),  and  is  surroimded  by  lofty  ranges  of  hills,  whose  sheltered 
slopes  are  the  home  of  the  vine.  The  N.  part  is  divided  by  a  remarkable 
promontory  called  Bluf  Pointy  which  runs  8  M.  into  the  lake,  with  a 
-width  of  1-2  M.,  and  a  height  above  the  water  of  4-700  ft.  At  the 
head  of  the  W.  Branch  of  the  lake  is  the  secluded  hamlet  of  Branchport, 
with  5  churches  and  100  dwellings.  There  are  pleasant  drives  between 
Hammondsport  ana  Crystal  Springs,  either  by  the  lake-road,  or  by  the 
way  of  Little  Lake,  a  beautiful  sheet  of  water  3  M.  long,  secluded  among 
the  highlands  of  Wayne.  i 

The  flrat  settlement  in  this  vicinity  was  made  in  1789  by  Jemima  Wilkinson,  a 
woman  of  Rhode  Island  who  had  founded  a  new  religious  system,  whereof  she 
was  the  head,  bearing  the  official  title  of  "  the  Universal  Fnend."  In  1780  the 
sect  held  a  conference  in  Connecticut,  and  resolved  to  move  into  the  Western 
wilderness,  where  they  might  enjoy  their  peculiar  ideas  undisturbed.  So  the 
Universal  Friend,  with  her  two  "  Witnesses  and  the  proselytes,  moved  West  and 
settled  £.  of  Penn  Yan,  the  lady  occupying  the  first  frame  house  in  Western  New 
York.  The  settlement  was  derisively  called  Penn  Yank  by  the  New-Yorkers,  in 
allusion  to  the  fact  tiiat  it  was  formed  by  Pennsylvanians  and  Yankees. 

The  Northern  Central  train  runs  N.  and  N.  W.  from  Penn  Yan,  passing 
several  small  rural  hamlets.  Beyond  Benton  it  enters  Ontario  County, 
and  soon  reaches  the  populous  village  of  Canandaig^a  (see  page  202). 

1  M.  E.  of  Canandaigua,  on  a  symmetrical  hill,  are  the  remains  of  the  round 
fort  which  was  held  sacred  by  the  tSenecas  as  the  place  of  their  origin.  8  M.  N. 
W.  is  the  fortress  which  was  destroyed  in  1687  by  the  Mai-quis  de  Nonville,  ""t  the 
head  of  900  Hurons  and  8  battalions  of  Frenchmen.  It  was  a  favorite  seat  of  the 
Senecas,  and  was  won  only  l.  ter  a  long  and  desperate  battle.  Sullivan's  American 
army  destroyed  the  Seneca  town  of  Canandr^igua  (in  1779),  then  marched  S.  W. 
and  swept  away  the  villages  of  Honeoye  and  Conesus,  defeated  the  Indians  near 
C^nesus  Lake,  and  laid  in  ashes  the  Genesee  Castle,  with  its  large  and  well-built 
town.  In  this  harsh  campaign,  "  40  Indian  towns  were  burned  ;  160,000  bushels 
of  com  in  the  fields  or  in  granaries  were  destroyed  ;  a  vast  number  of  the  finest 
Aruit-trecs,  the  product  of  years  of  tardy  growth,  were  cut  down ;  hundreds  of 
gardens  covered  with  edible  vegetables  were  destroyed ;  the  inhabitants  were 
driven  into  the  forests  to  star\'e,  and  were  hunted  like  wild  beasts ;  their  altars 
were  overtiuned,  and  their  graves  trampled  upon  by  strangers ;  and  a  beautiful, 
well-watered  country,  teeming  with  a  prosperous  people,  ....  was  desolated 
and  cast  back  a  century  within  the  space  of  a  fortnight.    . 


■^  1 


KENNETT  SQUARE. 


RauUei.      385 


61  Philadelphia  to  Port  Bepoiit 

By  the  Phila.,  Wil.  &i  Bait.  R.  R.  to  LamoVin,  where  the  Phila.  k  Bait  Central 
B.  R.  diverges.  A  branch  of  the  P.,  W.  it  b.  R.  R.  connects  with  this  route  at 
Fort  Deposit,  carrying  passengers  into  Baltimore  in  6^  hrs.  from  Phila.  Fare 
from  Phila  to  Port  Deposit,  92.46. 

Stations.  —  Phila. ;  Lamolcin  Junction,  14  M. ;  Knowlton,  17 ;  Rockdale,  20 ; 
West  Chester  Junction,  21 ;  Patterson,  23  ;  Concord,  25  ;  Brandywine,  27  ; 
Chadd's  Ford  Junction,  30 ;  Fairville,  33 ;  Rosedale,  34 ;  Kennett,  36 ;  Tough- 
kenamon,39;  Avondale,  40;  West  Qrove,  43;  Penn,  40;  Elk  View,  47;  Lincoln 
University,  49 ;  Oxford,  62 ;  Nottingham,  55 ;  Rising  Sun.  60 ;  Colora,  62 ;  C  & 
P.  D.  Junction,  67 ;  Port  Deposit,  71  (Perryville,  75 ;  Baltimore,  112). 

The  train  follows  the  line  of  the  Phila.,  Wil.  &  Bait.  R.  R.  (Route  62) 
as  far  as  Lamokin,  where  it  diverges  to  the  N.  W.  and  intersects  the 
West  Chester  &  Phila.  R.  R.  Thence  the  road  runs  W.  by  Paterson  and 
Concord  to  Brandytoine,  near  the  place  of  the  great  battle  of  Sept., 
1777  (see  page  338).  The  train  crosses  the  Brandywine  Creek  and  enters 
Chester  County,  which  Bayard  Taylor  has  well  called  "  a  lovely  repro- 
duction of  English  Warwickshire."  Kennett  Square  is  a  pleasant  old 
hamlet  N.  of  the  track  and  on  the  State  Road.  It  was  the  camp-ground 
of  the  royal  army  under  Sir  William  Howe  before  its  victory  at  the 
Brandywine ;  and  its  scenery  has  been  celebrated,  in  later  days,  in  Taylor's 
poem,  *'  The  Story  of  Kennett."  The  Eaton  Female  Institute  receives 
summer  boarders. 

J.  Batard  Taylor  was  bom  at  Kennett  Square  in  1826,  and  in  1842  he  began 
to  learn  the  printer's  art  and  to  write  verses.  In  1844-46  he  made  a  romantic 
pedestrian  tour  in  Oermauy,  Italy,  and  France,  whose  account  was  given  in 
"Views  Afoot."  Since  that  time  his  travels  have  been  incessant,  and  have 
reached  the  most  remote  points,  concerning  which  he  has  published  numerous 
interesting  books,  besides  volumes  of  romance,  poetry,  and  translations.  The 
mansion  of  Cedarcroft,  at  Kennett  Square,  belonged  to  Mr.  Taylor,  who  died  in 
1878,  while  Minister  to  Oeraiany,  and  is  buried  at  Kennett  Square. 

The  train  passes  S.  W.  across  an  ancient  and  well-populated  region 
where  the  prolific  limestone  soil  yields  large  crops.  Lincoln  Univeraity 
is  a  school  of  the  Presbyterians,  founded  in  1854,  and  having  9  instructors 
and  140  students.  From  the  neighboring  village  of  Oxford  stages  run  to 
Penn  Hill,  Oakhill,  and  Peach  Bottom.  The  train  now  passes  S.  W.  to 
Fort  Deposit,  a  town  of  nearly  2,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Susque- 
hanna River  at  the  lower  falls  and  5  M.  from  the  Chesapeake  Bay.  It  has 
a  large  trade  in  the  trans-shipment  of  pine  lumber  which  is  floated  down 
the  river  in  rafts  from  Lock  Haven  and  Williamsport ;  and  there  are 
granite-quarries  in  the  vicinity.  The  Port  Deposit  Branch  of  the  P.,  W. 
k  B.  R.  R.  runs  S.  E.  along  the  1.  bank  of  the  Susquehanna  to  PerryviUe, 

Perryville  to  Baltimore,  see  Route  62. 


17 


i^' 


i« 


I 


386     RouU  6i, 


CHESTER. 


62.  Fhiladel^iia  to  Wilmins^n  and  Baltunora 

By  the  Phila..  Wil.  &  Baltimore  R.  R.  in  8^-5^  hra.— The  new  Limited  Ex- 
press-train (Pullman  cars)  runs  between  the  two  cities  (stopping  only  at  Wilming* 
ton)  in  2  hrs.  and  40  min. 

Stations.  — Philadelphia;  Oray's  Ferry,  2  M. ;  58th  St ;  Mt.  Moriah;  Bonaf- 
fon ;.  Paschall,  6 ;  Darby ;  Sharon  Hill ;  Glenolden ;  Ridley  Park ;  Cruni  Lynne ; 
Chester,  14 ;  Lamokin,  14^ ;  Thurlow,  16 ;  Linwood,  18 ;  Claymont,  20 ;  Bellevue, 
23  ;  Wilmington,  28 ;  Delaware  Junction,  30 ;  Newport,  32 ;  Stanton,  84 ;  Price's 
Wood,  87;  Newark.  40;  Elkton,  46;  North-East,  52;  Charlestown,  55;  Perry- 
ville.  61 ;  Havre  de  Grace,  62 ;  Aberdeen,  67 ;  Perrymansville,  71 :  Edgewood, 
77 ;  Magnolia,  79 ;  Chase's,  83 ;  Steramer's  Run,  89  ;  Bay  View ;  Baltimore,  98. 

The  train  leaves  the  terminal  station  at  the  corner  of  Broad  St.  and  Wash- 
ington Ave.,  and  runs  W.  through  a  busy  manufacturing  qv  rter,  passing 
the  U.  S.  Arsenal  and  the  Naval  Asylum  on  the  r.  The  immense  build- 
ings of  the  Almshouse  and  the  white  monuments  of  the  Woodland  Ceme- 
tery are  seen  on  the  r.  as  the  train  crosses  the  Schuylkill  River  on  the 
Newark  Viaduct^  a  costly  structure  800  ft.  long.  At  its  W.  end  is  the 
station  of  Oray's  F&rry^  which  was  named  in  honor  of  the  proprietor  of 
the  ancient  ferry  at  this  poii^t.  Over  the  floating-bridge  which  was  after- 
wards built  here,  Qeu.  Washington  made  a  triumphal  passage  in  1789, 
while  on  his  way  to  assume  the  Presidency  of  the  new  Republic.  The 
through  trains  from  New  York  to  Washington  here  run  on  to  the  P.,  W. 
&  B.  tracks,  after  flanking  the  city  of  Phila.  by  way  of  Frankford,  Fair- 
mount  Park,  W.  Phila.,  and  the  Junction  R.  R.  The  line  now  bends  to 
the  S.  W.  and  passes  several  suburban  stations.  Near  Ridley  Park  is  a 
large  summer  hotel,  and  the  station-building  at  Crum,  Lynne  is  noticeable 
for  its  pretty  decoration  (as  are  i^lso  most  of  the  other  stations  on  this 
railroad).  11  M.  below  Phila.  the  traveller  may  see  the  spacious  build- 
ings of  the  Lazaretto,  the  quarantine  of  the  city.  The  main  structure  is 
180  ft.  long,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  dome.  Vessels  from  foreign  ports 
are  boarded  at  this  point  and  examined  by  the  health-officers. 

The  Lazaretto  is  on  Tinicum  Island,  near  which  was  the  fortified  town  of  Ntto 
Gottenburg,  "the  metropolis  of  New  Sweden."  It  was  founded  in  1642  Vy  Lt.- 
Col.  Printz  of  the  Swedish  army,  the  governor  of  Queen  Christina's  American  do- 
mains. He  arrived  here  in  the  ships  Swan  and  Charitas,  with  a  goodly  companjf 
of  adventurous  Scandinavians,  whose  spiritual  head  was  the  learned  Pastor  Cam- 
panius.  To  the  N.  were  soon  erected  the  fortifled  towns  of  Nya  Waaa  and  Orips' 
holm ;  also  the  new  Fort  Kingsessing,  whereof  the  Swedish  annalisc  wrote :  "  This 
was  no  fort,  but  good  strong  log-houses,  built  of  good  strong  hai-d  hickory,  2 
stories  high,  which  was  a  fort  good  and  strong  enough  to  secure  themselves  from 
the  Indians.  For  what  signifieth  a  fort  when  ttie  people  therein  boast  of  the 
strength  of  the  place,  and  do  not  crave  for  God's  atoistance  ?  And  there  lived  5 
freemen,  who  plough,  bow,  plant,  and  manure  the  land,  and  they  lived  very  well 
tiiere  for  the  governor  had  set  them  there."  | 

The  train  now  passes  on  to  Chester  {American  ^ouse  ;  ColunibiaX  a 
thriving  city  of  nearly  12,000  inhabitants,  with  foundries,  car-factories, 
cotton  and  woollen  mills,  and  great  ship-yards  for  the  manufacture  of 
iron  steamships.    The  ship-yards  of  John  Roach  cover  23  acres,  and  em- 


CHESTER. 


RowU6t»      387 


ploy  2,000  men,  building  the  great  vessels  l*  the  Pacific  Mail  Steamship 
Line  (of  which  the  City  of  Peking  recently  launched,  is  the  largest  vessel 
in  the  world,  except  the  Oreat  Eastern),  and  other  stanch  and  .stately 
vessels.  There  are  several  quaint  old  liipped-roof  buildings  here,  dating 
from  the  early  provincial  era,  and  the  churchyard  of  St.  Paul's  has  many 
curious  and  mossy  grave-stones.  The  holly-tree  near  Penn's  landing- 
place  (S.  of  Chester  Creek)  is  shown  to  visitors;  and  the  Court  House 
is  a  venerable  building  which  dates  from  1724.  The  Penn.  Military 
Academy  is  located  in  this  city,  and  is  a  State  school,  with  10  instructors 
and  140  students.  The  Aston  Ridge  Seminary  is  6  M.  N.  W.  sear  the 
hamlet  of  Village  Green  (by  pleasant  rural  roads  through  a  land  of  dai- 
ries); and  to  the  N.,  in  Springfield,  is  Stoarthmore  College,  an  institution 
of  the  sect  of  the  Friends,  with  18  instructors  and  243  students  (a  station 
on  the  W.  Chester  &  Phila.  B.  B.). 

Benjamin  West  was  born  near  Springfield  in  1738,  of  an  old  Quaker  family, 
and  soon  developed  an  intense  love  for  drawing.  After  1760  lie  dwelt  in  Europe, 
achieving  a  wide  celebrity  for  historical  paintings  of  a  high  order  of  conception 
and  harmonious  execution.  In  1792  he  succeeded  Sir  Joshua  Reynolds  as  Presi- 
dent of  the  Royal  Academy,  and  in  1820  he  died  at  London.  Among  his  chief 
works  were  "  Christ  Healing  the  Sick,"  and  "  Death  on  the  Pale  Horse." 

Chester  was  on  the  Indian  domain  of  Mocoponaca,  and  was  settled  by  the 
Swedes  about  1643,  under  the  name  of  Upland  (Oplandt),-- being,  therefore,  tlie 
oldest  town  in  the  State.  In  November,  1682,  William  Penn  and  his  companions 
landed  here  and  bestowed  upon  the  place  the  name  which  it  now  bears.  The 
first  Provincial  Assembly  convened  at  Chester,  Dec.  5,  1682,  and  enacted  a 
code  of  70  laws  for  the  government  of  the  new  settlements.  The  county -seat  re- 
mained here  for  169  years. 

Beyond  Chester  the  Baltimore  train  runs  through  the  old  Marcus  Hook 
district,  where  colonies  of  Finns  settled  in  the  17th  century.  The  village 
of  lAnwood  was  formerly  called  Marcus  Hook,  and  lies  in  a  rich  dairy- 
region,  \  M.  S.  of  the  station  of  the  same  name ;  1  M.  beyond  which  the 
traiu  enters  the  State  of  Delaware,  and  follows  the  course  of  the  broad 
Delaware  River,  by  the  milk-stations  of  Claymont,  Holly  Oak,  Bellevue, 
and  Ellerslie.  The  Brandywine  Creek  is  crossed  near  the  Old  Swedes' 
Church,  and  the  train  sweeps  around  to  the  S.  side  of  Wilmington,  the 
metropolis  of  Delaware  (see  Route  63).  The  Christiana  Creek  is  now  fol- 
lowed to  the  S.  W.,  by  the  divergence  of  the  Delaware  R.  R.  Neiopori 
(Miller's  Hotel)  is  a  quiet  and  venerable  hamlet  on  the  Christiana,  dating 
its  origin  from  the  FinnifA  immigration  of  1640.  Stanton  is  |  M.  W.  of 
the  line,  on  the  water-shed  between  the  Cliesapeake  and  Delaware  Bays, 
and  between  the  Red  Clay  and  White  Clay  Creeks.  It  was  settled  by 
the  Quakera  about  2  centuries  ago,  and  the  name  was  given  in  honor  of  a 
prominent  Quaker  gentleman.  The  train  now  passes  near  the  Iron  Hills, 
where  the  Indian  tribe  of  the  Minquas  dwelt.  From  the  chief  of  these 
summits  Washington  watched  the  advance  of  the  British  army  from  Elk- 
ton,  in  1777,  while  Gen.  Maxwell's  New  Jersey  troops  held  the  hills. 


( ■ 

i  ■ 


! 


388     Route  e». 


NEWARK. 


Lord  Cornwallis  advAnced  upon  Newark  in  Sept,,  1777,  defeated  Maxwell 
near  Pencander,  and  compelled  the  Continental  army  to  retire  to  the  line 
of  the  Brandy  wine.  Newark  {Delaware  House)  is  N.  of  the  Iron  Hills, 
and  1  M.  N.  of  the  station  of  the  same  name.  It  is  a  pretty  hamlet,  with 
several  manufactories  on  the  White  Clay  Creek.  This  place  has  acquired 
the  name  of  "  The  Athens  of  Delaware,"  on  account  of  its  educational 
facilities,  consisting  of  2  female  seminaries,  the  Newark  Academy  (founded 
in  1749),  and  the  Delaware  College,  a  prosperous  institution  which  dates 
from  1833,  and  is  well  endowed.  2  M.  N.  of  Newark  is  a  mineral 
spring  #ith  considerable  local  fame,  and  stages  run  to  Hqpewellf  18  M. 
distant. 

2  M.  beyond  Newark  and  about  1,000  ft.  N,  of  the  railroad  are  the  stones  which 
mark,  the  li'aiigent  Point  of  the  celebrated  Mason  avd  Diaon'a  line.  This  line 
marks  the  boundary  between  Penn  and  Maryland,  and  was  located  by  the  sur- 
veyors Charles  Mason  and  Jeremiah  Dixon  in  1762-  67.  It  was  327  M.  long  and 
was  marked  by  stone  pillars  4  ft.  high  at  each  mile,  carved  with  the  arms  of  the 
Calvert  and  Penn.  families  (between  whose  domains  it  was  drawn).  In  later  days 
this  boundary  as  sumed  great  importance  as  separating  the  Slave  States  from  the 
Free  States,  and  tn  this  phase  it  came  to  be  reganled  as  extending  across  the  Re- 
public from  ocean  to  ocean.  After  the  extinction  of  blavery  "  south  of  Mason  and 
Dixon's  line,"  and  the  close  of  the  Secession  TYar,  this  local  boundar}'  lost  its  na- 
tional significance  and  importance. 

Beyond  Mason  and  Dixon's  line  the  train  enters  the  State  of  Maryland, 
and  runs  down  to  Elkion^  a  town  of  about  1,800  inhabitants,  the  capital 
of  Cecil  County.  It  has  an  ancient  Court  House,  an  academy  of  high  re- 
pute, and  4  churches.  The  Elk  River  runs  S.  to  the  broad  estuaries  of 
the  Chesapeake  Bay.  This  village  was  settled  in  1694  by  Swedish  mari- 
ners from  Fort  Casimir,  and  was  called  the  Head  of  Elk  for  about  a  cen- 
tury. Aug.  26,  1777,  Sir  William  Howe's  Anglo-German  army  (13,000 
British  soldiers  and  5,000  Germans)  landed  on  the  Elk  River  and  marched 
11  M.  N.  to  the  Head  of  Elk,  whence  Howe  soon  advanced  to  the  short 
and  victorious  campaign  of  the  Brandywine,  which  resulted  in  the  con- 
quest of  Philadelphia  (see  page  338). 

The  train  now  crosses  the  Head  of  Elk  Neck,  and  stops  at  North- East,  a 
hamlet  which  was  destroyed  by  the  marauding  British  fleet  under  Admiral 
Cockbum  in  1813  (when  Charlestbwn  and  several  other  of  the  Bay  towns 
were  destroyed).  9  M.  N.  W.  is  the  Brick  Meeting-house,  which  was 
built  in  the  17th  century  by  William  Penn.  The  most  northerly  point  of 
Chesapeake  Bay  reaches  NorthEast,  and  is  crosled  by  a  railroad  viaduct. 
Charlestown  is  S.  of  its  station,  and  was  settled  in  1742.  It  was  for  some 
time  a  commercial  rival  of  Baltimore;  "but  received  a  terrible  blow  from 
Admiral  Cockbum's  pillaging  naval  parties,  and  is  now  known  only  for 
its  manufactories  of  fire-bricks.  The  train  now  traverses  high  embank- 
ments, from  which  the  Chesapeake  Bay  is  seen  on  the  1.,  and  passes  the 
iron-works  at  Principio,  on  the  Principio  Creek,  which  was  explored  by 
Capt.  John  Smith  in  1608.    Perry  ville  is  the  S.  E.  terminus  of  a  branch 


HAVRE  DE  GRACE. 


Rmtt  6t      389 


railr w-arl  to  Port  Deposit  (see  page  385).  The  road  here  reaches  the  broad 
and  stately  Susqnehanna  River,  which  was  foi*merly  crossed  by  the  trains 
on  great  ferry-boats  (until  1867).  The  bridge  over  which  the  line  now 
passes  is  a  substantial  and  lofty  structure,  |  M.  long,  and  costing 
$  1,250,000.  Fine  views  of  the  river  and  its  bordering  hills  are  gained  on 
either  side,  with  the  Chesapeake  Bay  on  the  1.  On  the  S.  side  of  the 
Susquehanna  is  Havre  de  Grace,  a  thriving  town  of  about  2,400  inhabi* 
tants,  situated  on  ground  sloping  up  from  the  water's  edge.  The  vicinity 
of  this  place  is  noted  for  the  wild  fowl  which  are  found  late  in  the  year. 
The  own  was  laid  out  during  the  Revolutionary  era,  and  was  named 
Havre  de  Grace  by  some  Franco- American  officers  who  passed  hitherward 
on  their  way  to  the  southern  campaigns,  and  saw  a  topographical  re* 
semblance  between  the  new  town  and  the  city  of  Ha\Te,  in  France. 
Aberdeen  is  a  characteristic  Maryland  hamlet  in  the  old  parish  of  Hall's 
Cross  Roads,  with  stages  rumiing  6  M.  N.  W.  to  Churchville.  About  3 
M.  beyond,  the  train  passes  (on  the  r.,  ^  M.  distant)  the  Spesutia  Churchy 
a  handsome  Norman  edifice  occupying  the  site  of  the  similarly  named 
church  which  was  built  here  in  1670.  The  name  **  Spes-Utie*'  (hope  of 
Utie)  was  given  in  honor  of  the  Utie  family,  so  powerful  and  active  in 
the  early  colonial  days;  and  the  church  accommodates  one  of  the  oldest 
)'piscopal  parishes  in  Maryland.  The  train  now  passes  Perrymansville, 
aid  soon  crosses  the  great  bridge  over  Bush  River  (3,189  ft.  long),  and 
then,  beyond  Edgewood  and  Magnolia,  the  Gunpowder  River  is  crossed 
on  a  bridge  5,238  ft.  long.  To  the  S.  E.,  near  the  mouths  of  these  broad 
estuaries,  are  the  most  famous  sporting-grounds  of  the  Chesapeake  Bay, 
where  immense  flocks  of  aquatic  birds  feed  along  the  shallows  and  flats. 
The  pursuit  of  canvas-back  ducks  forms  an  arduous  but  profitable  and 
exciting  sport,  and  several  of  the  shooting-grounds  on  the  most  frequented 
islands  are  preserved  and  carefully  guarded  by  their  owners.  Abbey 
Island,  at  the  mouth  of  Bush  River,  is  famous  for  its  annual  visitations 
of  large  water-fowl;  and  CarrolVs  Island,  ax  the  mouth  of  the  Gunpowder 
River,  is  similarly  favored.  The  low-lying  points  and  marshes  in  the  vi- 
cinity form  fine  shooting-grounds,  where  geese  and  swans  are  found;  and 
MaxwelPs  Paint,  3  M.  from  the  Gunpowder  Bridge,  has  good  accommo- 
dations for  sportsmen.  The  level  shores  near  Harewood  and  Stemmer's 
Run  are  also  visited  for  this  purpose. 

Stemmer's  Run  is  near  the  head  of  the  Middle  River,  and  the  train  soon 
crosses  the  Back  River  on  a  wooden  bridge  760  ft.  long,  with  the  Bay  in 
sight  on  the  1.  The  train  runs  S.  W.  7  M.,  entering  the  manufacturing 
suburb  of  Canton,  and  passing  in  sight  of  the  harbor  of  Baltimore  and 
Fort  McHenry  (on  the  1.). 

Baltimore,  see  page  394. 


890     JtmUe  63, 


WILMINGTON. 


;  { •  m 


63i  Wilmington  to  Lewes  and  Criifleld.— Tlie  State  of 

Delaware. 

By  the  DclawatiB  Division  of  tho  Phila.,  Wilmington  k  Bali  R.  R.  and  its  eon- 
Becting  lines.    Wilmington  to  Lewes  in  &i  lira.;  to  Crlslield  in  7^  hra. 

8tatlou«.  — Wihniui^on;  Newca.stle,  6  M.:  Bear,  12:  Kirkwuod,  16;  Mt. 
Pleasant,  21;  Middlctown,  25;  Townsend,  29;  Blackbird,  81;  Oreen  Hpring,  84; 
Clayton,  87  (Smyrna):  Brenford,  40;  Moorton,  42;  Dover,  48;  Wyoming,  61; 
Woodside,  64;  Canterbury,  5U;  Felton,  58;  Harrington,  64  (Lewes,  104);  Far- 
mington,  68;  Greenwood,  72;  Bridgeville,  76;  Seaford,  84;  Laurel,  90;  Delmar, 
97;  Williams'  Siding,  100;  Salisbury,  loa;  Forktown,  107;  Eden,  110;  Princess 
Anne,  116;  Westover,  121;  Kingston,  125;  Marion,  129;  Crlslield,  136. 

Wilmington. 

Hotels. — *  Clayton  House,  an  elegant  new  building  at  the  corner  of  Market  and 
6th  Sts.  (-1^3  a  day) ;  United  States  Hotel ;  and  several  smaller  houses. 

AmusementB  at  the  new  theatre-hall  in  the  Masonic  Temple.  Heading-Room 
at  the  Wilmington  Institute,  corner  of  Market  and  8th  Sts.  (open  from  8  a.  m.  until 
lO  p«  M.).    Post-Office,  comer  of  King  and  6th  Sts. 

Horse-Cam  on  French,  Front,  Market,  and  10th  Sts.  and  Delaware  Ave.;  and 
from  the  B.  R.  station  to  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  to  Rising  Sun  and  Christiana 
Hundred.  Stages  run  ftom  Grubb's  Hotel  to  Newcastle  6  times  daily;  also  to 
Avondale  semi-weekly. 

Railroads.— The  Phila.,  Wil.  &  Bait.,  on  Water  St.,  near  FreAch  (to  Phila., 
28  M.;  to  Bait.,  70  M.):  the  Wil.  &  Western,  at  the  S.  side  of  the  Market  St. 
Bridge  (to  Landenberg,  20  M.);  the  Wil.  &  Reading,  comer  of  Front  and  Madison 
fits,  (to  Reading,  70  M. ).    Steamem  i-un  to  Phila.  daily. 

Wilmington,  the  chief  city  of  the  State  of  Delaware,  is  situated  be- 
tween the  Brandywine  and  Christiana  Creeks,  near  their  confluence,  and 
2  M.  from  the  Delaware  Biver.  It  has  40,000  inhabitants,  with  43 
churches  and  several  academies,  and  is  evenly  laid  out  in  rectangular 
squares.  The  manufacturing  interests  are  of  great  extent  and  value, 
foremost  of  which  are  the  ship-yards,  where  many  steam-vessels  are  made, 
ranging  in  size  from  the  swift  little  tug-boat  to  the  stately  ocean-steam- 
ship. The  Harlan  &  Hollingsworth  Co.  builds  7-8  large  ships  yearly, 
besides  river-boats  and  steam-tugs.  Several  U.  S.  frigates  were  made  here 
during  the  Secession  War,  and  the  yard  now  turns  out  iron  steamships  for 
the  West  India  and  Southern  coast-lines.  The  flour-mills  on  the  Brandy- 
wine  grind  over  1,000,000  bushels  of  wheat  yearly;  8-4,000  carriages  are 
made  by  3(X)  men ;  and  the  Dupont  Powder-Mills,  3  M.  to  the  N.  W.,  are 
among  the  largest  in  the  country.  There  are  also  car.  and  car- wheel  works, 
cotton  and  woollen  mills,  shoe  and  leather  factories,  and  other  branches 
of  mechanical  industry. 

Market  St.  is  the  main  thoroughfare;  and  the  markets  are  at  the  inter- 
section of  4th  St.,  while  the  quaint  old  City  Hall  is  near  6th  St.  Grace 
Church  (comer  of  9th  and  West  Stb.)  is  a  stately  Ck>thic  building  of  green 
serpentine-stone  from  Chadd's  Ford,  and  is  one  of  the  finest  Methodist 
churches  in  the  Republic.  Near  this  point  is  the  massive  little  Sweden- 
borgian  Church,  situated  on  the  broad  and  pleasant  Delaware  Avenue, 
which  crosses  the  ridge  (112  ft.  high)  back  of  the  city,  and  overlooking 


NEWCASTLE. 


lunue  es.    391 


and  its  eon' 


the  broad  Delaware  River.  St.  Andrew's  (8th  and  Shipley  Sts. )  is  a  plain 
structure  which  is  the  seat  of  the  Episcopal  bishop  of  this  diocese.  The 
Wilmington  Institute  is  at  the  comer  of  8th  and  Market  Sts.,  and  has  a 
gooii  library,  —  small,  but  accessible.  On  6th  St.,  comer  of  French  St.,  is 
the  Wesle^an  Fenialr"  College,  which  is  under  tlie  care  of  the  Metliodist 
Church.  The  Old  Swedes  Ohnroh  is  near  the  Brandy  wine  River,  and 
is  a  remarkably  quaint  stracture,  surrounded  by  a  venerable  graveyard. 
It  was  founded  in  1698.  William  Penn  contributed  to  the  building-fund ; 
Queen  Anne  sent  a  Bible  ;  and  the  miners  of  Sweden  presented  a  silver 
chalice  and  service  of  plate.  Among  the  ancient  tombstones  is  one  which 
covers  the  grave  of  Petrus  Tranberg,  rector  of  the  parish  from  1742  to 
1748.  He  was  succeeded  by  Acrelius,  the  Swedish  historian ;  and  Girelius 
was  the  last  of  the  Swedish  rectors.  It  is  claimed  (with  reason)  that 
Peter  Minuit,  the  founder  of  the  city,  and  Reoras  Torkillus,  its  first 
minister,  are  buried  here.  The  old  church,  deserted  and  decaying  for 
years,  was  taken  by  the  Trinity  parish,  and  is  now  kept  in  good  order. 

The  Brandywine  Springs  are  near  Wilmington,  and  are  a  favorite 
summer  resort  for  Delaware  families.  The  waters  are  chalybeate  in 
character,  and  are  mildly  tonic  in  effect.  A  large  new  hotel  has  recently 
been  opened  at  these  Springs,  situated  on  high  land  and  surrounded  by 
ornamental  grounds.  The  scenery  of  the  lower  Brandywine  valley  is  very 
attractive  in  its  quiet  mral  beauty,  and  is  accessible  by  well-built  high- 
ways. 

Newcastle  {Jefferson  House,  facing  the  bay;  Butler  Hottse),  the  capital 
of  Newcastle  County,  is  6  M.  S.  of  Wilmington,  on  the  Delaware  River, 
and  has  about  2,000  inhabitants,  4  churches,  and  the  plain  coimty-build- 
ings.  It  has  large  iron-works  and  some  commerce,  and  is  latterly  mailing 
considerable  progress.    Fort  Delatoare  is  seen,  4  M.  to  the  S. 

In  the  year  1632  King  Oustavus  Adolphns  of  Sweden  and  Chancellor  Oxen- 
stiern  acquired  Delaware  by  negotiation  with  Holland ;  and  while  the  Swedish 
army  lay  at  Nureml)erg,  sagacious  plans  were  made  for  the  settlement  of  a  new 

{)rovince.  But  the  king  was  soon  afterwards  killed  at  the  battle  of  Lutzen, 
eaving  the  great  scheme  of  a  free  Protestant  colony  in  America  ('*  the  jewel  of 
his  kingdom  ")  to  be  carried  out  by  Oxenstiem.  In  1638  Peter  Minuit  sailed  fTom 
Gottenburg  in  the  ships  Key  of  Kalmar  and  Bird  Grip,  and  founded  a  colony  on 
the  present  site  of  Wilmington,  having  bought  the  land  from  the  sachem  Matta- 
hoon  with  a  copper  kettle.  He  built  a  5-gun  fort,  which  was  named  Fort  Chris- 
tina, in  honor  of  the  Queen  of  Sweden.  Fresh  Scandinavian  swarms  soon  entered 
the  Delaware,  and  the  rapid  growth  of  New  Sweden  began  to  alarm  the  Dutch  at 
New  York.  Both  parties  fortified  their  settlements  along  the  bay  and  river,  and 
the  men  of  New  Haven  were  expelled  from  the  E.  shore  and  sent  home.  A  Boston 
ship  which  was  ascending  the  Delaware  in  search  of  "  the  gi-eat  lake  Lyneonia" 
was  fired  upon  by  the  Swedish  batteries,  and  was  forced  to  pay  for  the  shot  which 
had  been  thrown  at  her  and  to  leave  the  river.  Lt.-Col.  Printz  succeeded  Minuit 
as  governor,  and  built  Fort  Elsinburg  at  Varkenkil  (Salem,  N.  J.),  where  the 
doughty  governor,  who  "weighed  400  pounds,  and  drank  3  drinks  at  everj'  meal," 
ruled  in  state  until  the  fort  was  attacked  by  an-  enemy  more  terrible  than  the 
Yankees  or  the  Dutch.  The  8  guns  of  the  fort  availed  nothing  against  the  myriads 
of  the  assailants ;  and  the  garrison  abandoned  the  place,  giving  it  the  significant 


1 


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892     Rouues, 


SMYRNA. 


I 


name  of  MomtuUouiberg.  In  1661  Oor.  Btayretant  of  New  Tork  Irailt  Fort  Cutmlr 
at  Newcastle,  to  check  the  Swedish  power;  but  it  was  captured  8  yean  later, and 
was  named  Fort  Trinity,  because  ttie  attack  was  made  on  Trinity  Sunday.  The 
region  adjacent  was  called  New  Amstel,  and  was  placed  under  the  patronage  of 
the  city  of  Amsterdam,  whence  came  many  immigrants.  In  1666.  Oov.  Stuyvesant 
entered  the  Delaware  with  7  ships  fh)m  New  York,  and  captured  Fort  Trinity 
after  a  short  siege.  He  brought  nis  armed  vessels  up  the  creek,  and  estn^  .shed 
6  land-batteries  around  Fort  Christina.  The  Dutch  parallels  were  advancii-^:,  the 
ammunition  of  the  fort  ran  low,  and  Oov.  Rising  was  forced  tosurrende),  stip* 
ulating  that  the  Swedish  troops  "  should  march  out  of  the  fort  with  beati'ii^  of 
drums,  flfes,  and  colors  flying,  firing  matches,  balls  in  their  mouths,  and  with 
their  arms."  So  fell  the  Swedish  power  in  Delaware,  and  in  1664  Fort  Jhrisi  na 
(which  had  been  named  Altona  by  the  Dutch  conquerors)  was  taken  by  tlie 
English.  In  17S9  King  George  II.  chartered  it  as  "  the  fiorough  of  Wilming- 
ton"; and  in  1777,  after  Washington's  heud-quarters  had  been  removed  to  the 
N.,  the  British  army  occupied  the  place.  It  was  made  a  city  in  1882,  since  which 
(and  especially  during  the  past  20  years)  Wilmington  has  become  wealthy,  and 
prominent  as  a  manufacturing  centre. 

The  Delaware  B.  B.  rnns  S.  from  Wilmington  to  Newcastle,  whence  it 
turns  to  the  S.  W.,  leaving  the  Delaware  River,  and  gaining  the  interior 
plains.  Bear  station  is  1  M.  N.  of  Red  Lion  village  and  its  celebrated 
camp-grounds.  Kirkwood  station  is  3  M.  from  the  hamlet  of  St.  George 
(St.  George's  Hotel),  and  the  train  thence  passes  S.,  and  crosses  the 
Chesapeake  &  Delaware  Canal.  From  near  Kirkwood  the  Penn.  &  Del. 
B.  R.  runs  6  M.  S.  E.  to  Delaware  City,  a  maritime  village  at  the  outlet 
of  the  canal,  and  opposite  the  island  where  stands  Fort  Delawarei  a 
powerful  work  mounting  155  guns,  and  which  has  cost  $  1,750,000.  In 
1873  a  new  barbette  battery  was  commenced  opposite  Fort  Delaware, 
designed  for  6  mortars  and  21  15-inch  cannon.  The  train  now  runs  S. 
across  St.  (George's  Hundred,  by  Mt.  Pleasant,  to  Middletotm  (Middle- 
town  House ;  National),  a  pretty  village  (4  M.  W.  of  Odessa)  whence 
great  quantities  of  peaches  are  shipped.  From  Totonsend  the  Rent  Co. 
and  Queen  Anne's  &;  Kent  R.  Rs.  run  S.  W.  into  the  Eastern  Shore  of 
Maryland,  forking  at  Masseys,  and  reaching  Chestertown  and  Rock-Hall 
(31  and  36  M.  from  Townsend),  and  CefUrevUle,  the  capital  of  Queen 
Anne's  County  (36  M.).  Chestertown  is  the  seat  of  Washington  College, 
which  was  founded  in  1785  and  has  about  80  students.  The  Delaware 
R  R.  next  crosses  Appoquinimink  Hundred,  and  reaches  Clayton,  whence 
a  short  branch  runs  to  Smyrna  {Delaivare  House;  Smyrna  Hotel),  a 
thriving  hamlet  of  over  2,000  inhabitants,  with  5  churches  and  a  library. 
It  is  the  second  town  in  the  State,  and  annually  ships  great  quantities  of 
peaches  and  grain.  The  Maryland  &  Delaware  R.  R.  runs  from  Clayton 
44  M.  S.  W.,  across  level  plains,  well  settled  and  prolific,  to  Easton  (Brick 
Hotel),  the  capital  of  the  Maryland  county  of  Talbot,  near  the  remote 
and  bay-environed  peninsula  of  St.  Michael's.  8  - 10  M.  N.  E.  of  Smyrna 
is  Bombay  Hook  (Logan's  Hotel,  visited  by  sportsmen),  N.  of  which  is 
CoUins*  Beach  (Hygenia  House),  a  quiet  summer  resort  on  Delaware  Bay 
(reached  by  tri- weekly  steamers  from  Arch  St.  Wharf,  PhUa.).   The  train 


LEWES. 


Houuej.   393 


nins  S.  E.  from  Clayton  to  Dorer  (Capitol  Ilouae),  the  otpital  of  the 
Stute  of  Delaware,  a  villagf^  of  2,231  inhabitants,  8  M.  from  Delaware 
Bay.  On  the  Public  Square  at  the  centre  are  the  county  buildings,  the 
el,  bank,  Delawarian  office,  ami  the  neat  and  conimodicms  Bute  House. 
U  M.  S.  E.  of  Dover  is  the  KitVa  Hammock  ffotue,  on  the  Delaware  Bay. 
Wyoming  station  is  1  M.  from  the  fanning  centre  of  Camclm  (National 
Hotel);  and  the  line  now  tra,  rues  a  rich  fruit-growing  district  to  FelUm 
(Foimtain  House),  whence  a  highway  leads  E.,  by  Frederica,  to  the  summer 
resort  of  Botner'a  Detich  (2  hotels). 

The  Junction  dr  Breakwater  R.  Jt.  runs  40  M.  S.  E.  to  Lewes.  Stationa. 
—  Harrington;  Houston,  4-  Milford,  9;  Lincoln,  12 ;  Ellendale,  17;  Rob- 
bins,  19;  Georgetown,  25;  Gravelly  Hill,  29;  Cool  Spring,  33;  Rehoboth, 
86;  Lewes,  40.  The  train  traverses  the  broad  and  fruitful  plains  of 
Sussex  County,  to  Milord  (Milford  House),  a  neat  village  on  Mispillioa 
Creek,  beyond  which  it  crosses  the  Cedar  Creek  Hundred,  near  the  sports- 
men's resorts  at  Thorn  Point  and  Doctor's  Island.  Oeorgetoum  (Union 
House;  Eagle  House)  is  a  pretty  hamlet,  with  the  Sussex  County  build- 
ings fronting  on  a  central  circular  park.  Tlie  train  runs  N.  K  to  LewM 
(Atlantic  House;  United  States),  a  maritime  hamlet  fronting  on  Lewes 
Creek  and  the  Delaware  Bay,  near  the  immense  and  costly  national  break- 
waters, where  18  -  20,000  vessels  are  sheltered  annually.  4  -  6  M.  N.  E.  of 
Lewes  is  Cape  Henlopen,  one  of  the  great  Capes  of  Delaware,  with  its 
tall  lighthouse  and  first-class  light  A  few  M.  S.  of  Lewes  is  Jtehoboth 
Beach^  a  seaside  resort  for  the  Delawarians,  with  several  small  hotels  and 
cottages.  Terrapins,  rock- fish,  perch,  and  eels  abound  in  this  vicinity; 
and  near  the  Breakwater  large  quantities  of  black-fish  and  flounders  are 
caught.  It  is  claimed  that  Cape  Henlopen  has  advanced  1  M.  in  100 
years,  and  the  lighthouse  which  was  built  during  the  colonial  era  is  now 
1}  M.  inland  from  the  new  lighthouse.  The  population  of  Lewes  is  of 
the  nautical  element,  and  the  viUage  is  the  headrquarters  of  the  Delaware 
Bay  pilots. 

In  1631  the  Swedish  officer  De  Vifes  came  to  Lewes  with  a  colony  of  Scandina- 
vians on  2  ships.  They  planted  the  banner  of  Sweden  on  the  lonely  shores,  and 
erected  Fort  Oplandt,  in  the  SwanendtJe  ("  Valley  of  Swans  ").  But  they  were 
soon  at  feud  with  the  Indians,  because  the  latter  carried  off  the  metallic  shield 
which  bore  the  arms  of  Sweden  to  make  smoking-pipes  from.  Before  many  weeks 
the  savages  surprised  the  Europeans  and  totally  exterminated  the  colony. 

The  Delaware  B.  R.  runs  S.  from  Harrington  across  Mlspillion  Hundred 
by  the  fruit-raising  hamlets  of  Greenwood  and  BridgevUle  (Pans  Hotel), 
a  centre  of  the  peach  and  berry  trade,  and  reaches  Seaford  ( Union  Hotel), 
a  large  village  on  the  Nanticoke  River,  whence  considerable  coasting-trade 
is  carried  on,  partly  by  means  of  small  steamers.  .The  canning  of  oysters 
is  a  profitable  industry  at  this  point.  The  Dorchester  A  Delaware  Jt.  Jt. 
runs  33  M.  E.  across  the  Eastern  Shore  of  ^laxyland,  passing  Federals- 
17* 


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394     R(mt$e4. 


BALTIMORE. 


burg,  Williamsbnrgf  and  E.  Newmarket.    The  terminns  is  at  Carnbridge 
the  capital  of  Dorchester  County,  with  1,642  inhabitants  and  a  steamboat 
line  to  Baltimore.    The  village  is  on  the  estuary  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Choptank  River,  where  Northern  colonies  have  lately  been  established. 

The  main  line  runs  S.  from  Seaford  to  Laurel  (Planter's  House),  a  rural 
village  on  Broad  Creek,  famous  for  its  exportation  of  blackberries,  sweet 
potatoes,  peaches,  and  melons,  beyond  which  it  reaches  Delniar. 

The  Eastern  Shore  R.  R.  runs  S.  W.  from  Delmar,  passing  Salisbury ^ 
a  village  of  2,064  inhabitants,  situated  on  the  Wicomico  River.  The  train 
now  traverses  down  through  Wicomico  County,  Maryland,  by  several 
quiet  old  hamlets;  passing  near  Princess  Anne,  the  county-seat,  and  ter- 
minating at  Crisjield,  a  maritime  hamlet  of  350  inhabitants,  situated  near 
the  broad  Tangier  Sound.  Steamers  run  thence  to  Norfolk  on  Monday, 
Wednesday,  and  Friday. 

The  Wicomico  <fc  Pocomoke  <fc  Worcester  R.  Rs.  run  37  M.  E.  and  S.  through 
the  populous  districts  of  Worcester  County,  passing  St.  Martin's  and 
Berlin,  and  terminating  at  Snow  Hill,  an  important  shipping-point  on 
tiie  Pocomoke  River,  20  M.  from  the  Chesapeake  waters.  Farther  S.  are 
the  quaint  old  towns  of  the  Eastern  Shore  of  Viiginia. 

64.  Baltimore. 

Hotels.— The  *Carrollton,  comer  of  Baltimore  and  Light  Sts.,  is  a  new  and 
stately  first-class  hotel  ($3-4  a  day);  *Barnum'8  City  Hotel,  comer  of  Calvert 
and  Fayette  Sts.  (Itfonuhient  Square),  $!4  a  day;  *  Mount  Vernon  Hotel,  Monu- 
ment St.,  near  Mt.  Vernon  Place,  a  small  but  sumptuous  hotel  (European  plan), 
whose  ratesare  guite  high  ;  *Eutaw  House,  comer  of  Baltimore  and  Eutaw  Sts., 
a  well-famed  old  hotel  (conducted  by  W.  W.  Leland) ;  St.  Clair  Hotel,  Monu- 
soieht  Square,  accommodating  300  guests;  Guy's  Monument. House,  European 

r\  Maltby  House,  180  - 184  W.  Pratt  St. ,  $  3  a  day.  The  Albion  is  on  Cathedral 
,  beyohd  the  Washington  Monument,  and  is  a  large  family  hotel;  and  Gittings' 
Mvr  hotel  garni  is  da  Charles  St.  Ronuert's  is  on  Fayette  St.,  near  Monument 
Square ;  the  Merchants'  Hotel  is  on  Pratt  St.;  and  the  Howard  House  (82  a  day) 
is  on  Howard  St.,  near  Baltimore.  Near  the  Northern  Central  R.  B.  station  are 
the  American,  Belvidere,  and  Northern  Central  Hotels ;  and  the  Fountain  House 
is  near  the  Bait.  &  Ohio  R.  R.  station. 

Restaurants*  —  *Rennert's,  near  Monument  Square,  is  visited  by  ladies; 
Pepper's  is  at  124  W.  Baltimore  St ;  *  Butcher's  is  on  Baltimore  St.,  near  Calvert, 
and  is  principally  patronieed  by  ladies  ;  Wilson's,  corner  of  Baltimore  and  North 
Sts.  There  is  a  restaurant  at  the  Dmid  Hill  Park.  Confectionery  and  ices  are 
Obtained  at  the  saloons  on  Baltimore  and  Charles  Sts.  The  restaurants  of  Balti- 
more furnish  ^in  their  seasons)  the  best  of  Chesapeake  Bay  and  Norfolk  oysters ; 
also  the  delicious  game-birds  of  the  Bay,  including  the  reed-birds  and  canvas- 
back  ducks. 

'  Baths*  —  In  the  principal  hotels,  with  all  conveniences.  Turkish  and  electro- 
chemical baths  are  given  at  54  N.  Liberty  St.  ($1  for  Turkish ;  $2.50  for  electro- 
chemical ;  open  fVom  8  a.  m.  to  9  p.  m.). 

Readlng»Rooms*  —  The  *  Peabody  Institute,  comer  of  Charles  and  Monu- 
ment Sts.;  the  Maryland  Institute,  on  Pratt  St.;  the  Mercantile  Library  (Saratoga 
and  St.  Paul  Sts.),  open  fh)m  10  a.  m.  to  10  p.  m.  :  the  Maryland  Historical  Society 
|on  introduction  from  a  member),  comer  of  Saratoga  and  St.  Paul  Sts. ;  the  Y.  M. 

Theatres* —  *  Ford's  Grand  Opera-House,  an  elegant  auditorium  opened  in 
1871  and  accommodating  2,600  persons  (Fayette  St,  neai;  Eutaw)  {  the  new  Acad- 


g 


"Cambridge 
steamboat 
mth  of  the 
Etblished. 
se),  a  rural 
rries,  sweet 
r. 

;  Salidmry, 
The  train 
by  several 
at,  and  ter- 
tuated  near 
»n  Monday, 

IS.  through 
artin'a  and 
ng-point  on 
rther  S.  are 


le 


is  a  new  and 

^r  of  Calvert 

Hotel,  Monu- 

ropean  plan), 

Eataw  Sts., 

otel,  Monu- 

,  European 

on  Cathedral 

and  Gittings' 

ir  Monument 

se  (9  2  a  day) 

I.  station  are 

ntain  Honae 

d  by  ladies; 
near  Calvert, 
re  and  Nortli 

and  ices  are 
nts  of  Balti- 
folk  oysters ; 

and  canvas- 

i  and  electro- 
)  for  electro- 

i  and  Monu- 
ary  (Saratoga 
>rical  Society 
the  Y.  M. 

m  opened  in 
le  new  Acad- 


HOTELS. 

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BALTIMORE. 


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•1A7  of  Mnsio,  on  Howard  St.;  the  Concordia  Opera-Honse  (corner  of  Bntaw  and 
German  Stti.),  belonging  to  the  German  Concordia  Society,  and  usually  devoted 
to  the  German  opera  and  drama  (introduction  to  the  flne  billiard-ball,  etc.,  by  a 
member  of  the  society).  The  Front  Bt  Theatre  represents  burlesques  and  spec* 
tacular  pieces.  CUuaie  musie  is  given  at  the  Peabody  Institute  «nd  in  the  new 
Masonic  Temple^  where  also  the  best  lecturers  may  be  heard.  Miscellaneous 
entertainments  nt  the  New  Assembly  Rooms,  the  hall  of  the  Maryland  Institute, 
and  otlier  public  halls  throughout  the  city.  The  famous  old  HolUday  Street 
Theatre  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1873,  but  has  been  rebuilt. 

Amasements*  —  Horse-racing  is  canied  on.  under  the  auspices  of  the  Main- 
land Joclccy  Club,  at  Pimlico,  2  M.  fh>m  the  N.  W.  boundary  of  the  city.  Match- 
games  of  base-ball  are  frequently  played  on  the  grounds  of  the  Baltimore  Club, 
one  of  the  best  of  the  professional  clubs. 

Art  Oolleetlons.  —  The  annual  exhibitions  in  the  Athennnm  draw  lai^ge 
crowds.  The  Peabody  Institute  Gallery  of  Art  is  in  process  of  organization. 
The  sales-galleries  of  Myers  &  Hedian  and  of  Butler  &  Perigo  are  on  Cliarles  St. , 
and  have  a  variety  of  American  and  Freuch  pictures.  The  best  private  gallery  in 
the  city  (and  one  of  the  finest  in  America)  is  that  of  William  T.  Walter,  Esq.,  at 
No.  65  Mount  Vernon  Place. 

Horae-Cars. — To  Druid  Hill  P^rk,  by  Baltimore  and  Eut^w  Sts.  and  Madison 
Ave.;  to  Waverly  and Teairody  Heights,  by  Charles  and  Calvert  Sts.;  to  the  Balti- 
more Cemetery  and  Clifton  Park,  by  Gay  St.  and  the  Bellair  Road ;  to  Powhatan, 
fh>m  the  W.  end  of  Baltimore  St. ;  to  Hall's  Springs,  by  the  Hurford  Road ;  to 
Federal  Hill,  Locust  Point,  and  Fort  McHenry,  from  the  comer  of  Hanover  and 
Baltimore  Sts.;  to  Fell's  Point  and  Canton,  by  Baltimore  St.,  Broadway,  and 
Alice  Anna  St. ;  from  the  President  St.  station,  on  Baltimore  and  Green  Sts.  and 
Penn.sylvania  Ave.,  to  the  city  liniita;  to  Greenmount  Cemetery,  Waverly.  Go- 
vanstown,  and  Towsontown,  by  the  York  Road ;  to  Franklin  Square  ana  th« 
city  limits,  by  Fayette,  Republican,  Townsend,  and  Gilmor  Sts.;  to  Patterson 
Park,  by  Lombard  and  Pratt  Sts.  Passengers  can  pass  from  one  route  to  another 
by*  means  of  exchange-tickets. 

Canrlasea.  —  Public  hackney-carriages  are  entitled  to  75c.  for  carrying  a  pas- 
senger from  any  railroad  station  or  steamboat  to  any  house  or  hotel  in  the  city. 
Each  additional  passenger  pays  25c. ;  and  each  trunk  or  box,  15c.  From  ono 
point  within  the  city  limits  to  another,  75c. ;  2  passengers,  $1  (children  under  10 
years  of  age,  no  charge :  over  10,  half  price).  By  the  hour,  9 1. 50,  and  9 1  for  each 
additional  hour.  Tanns  of  fores  are  placed  inside  the  carriages,  and  in  case  of 
disagreement  with  the  driver,  the  passenger  should  apply  to  a  policeman  to  rectify 
the  trouble. 

Stages*  —To  Bellair,  Tues.,  Thnrs.,  and  Sat.,  at  8  a.  m.  fhnn  Brown's  Hotel ; 
to  Kingsville,  Kellville,  and  Franklinville,  Mon.,  Wed.,  Fri..  and  Sat.,  at  1  p.  m., 
from  the  Rising  Sun  Hotel :  to  Long  Green  and  Harford  Road,  daily  at  3  p.  m., 
from  the  Starr  Hotel ;  to  Franklin  and  Powhatan  daily  at  3.  SO  p.  m.,  from  th« 
Gen.  Wayne  Hotel ;  to  Pikesville  daily,  atB  p.  u.,  from  the  Hand  Tavern. 

Railroads.  — The  Phila.,  Wihnington  &  Bait.,  to  Wilmington  (70  M.)  and 
Fhila.  (98  M.);  New  York,  188  M. ;  Boston,  422  M.;  the  Northern  Central,  to 
Harrisburg,  85  M.  ;  Elmira,  256  M.,  and  Canandaigua,  325  M.;  the  Western 
Maryland,  to  Hagerstown,  84  M. ;  the  Bait.  &  Ohio,  to  Washington,  40  M.,  and 
to  Cumberland  (178  M.)  and  Wheeling  (879  M.);  the  Baltimore  &  Potomac,  to 
Washington,  43  M.  Passengers  who  are.  bound  to  Washington  on  the  through 
Pullman  trains  do  not  change  cars  here.  The  famous  railroad  tunnels  under 
Baltimore  are  interesting  pieces  of  engineering.  The  Bait.  &  Potomac  R.  R. 
traverses  7,520  ft.  wil^in  the  city  limits,  most  of  which  is  in  brick-arched  tun- 
nels, built  in  1870  -  73,  at  an  expense  of  $  2,300,000.  The  portions  of  the  line  which 
are  not  arched  over  are  masked  by  deep  sunken  cuts.  The  Union  Tunnel  runs 
from  the  upper  {lart  of  the  city  to  the  open  track  which  leads  to  the  wharves  at 
Canton.  The  tunnel  portion  is  3,400  ft.  long,  and  cost  over  $  1,800,000.  It  is  used 
chiefly  for  freighting  and  commercial  purposes,  and  affords  teansit  to  the  5  rail- 
roads which  terminate  at  Baltimore. 

Steamships*  —  To  Bremen,  fortnightly ;  to  Liverpool ;  to  Havana  and  New 
Orleans,  fortnightly ;  to  Savannah,  weekly ;  to  Chanestown,  every  5  days ;  to 
Wilmington,  N.  C,  weekly ;  to  Richmond,  at  4  p.  m.  daily :  to  Fortress  Monroe 
and  Norfolk,  at  4  p.  m.  daUy ;  to  Fredericksburg,  Tries,  ana  Fri.,  at  4  p.  M. :  to 
Alexandria  and  Georgetown,  weekly ;  to  Norfolk  and  Boston,  tri-weekly }  to  New 


m 


396    SouU  64. 


BALTIMORE. 


Tork  (by  the  eanals)  daUyj  to  Philadelphia,  at  8  r.  m.  daily  (by  the  Chesapeake  h 
Delaware  Canal),  fkre,  9 1>&0.' 

Cheaapedke  Bay  Lines.— To  Crisfleld,  Onancoek,  Newton,  Snow  Hill,  Occa* 
hanock,  and  the  Eastern  Shore,  at  5  p.  u.  on  Tues.,  Wed.,  Frl,  and  Sun.  (from 
South  St.  wharf) ;  to  Benedict  and  the  Patuxent  ports,  at  evening  on  Wed.,  Thur., 
and  Sat.  (Pier  8) ;  to  Havrd  de  Grace  and  Port  Deposit,  at  6  p.  m.  dally ;  to  An* 
napolis  and  West  River,  at  7  a.  u.  daily  (Pier  8) ;  to  Easton,  Oxford,  Cambridge, 
and  Denton,  at  9  p.  m.  Tuea.,  Thur.,  and  Sat.  (Pier  8):  to  Crumpton  and  the 
Chester  River  ports,  at  7  a.  m.  Tues.,  Thur.,  and  Sat.  (Pier  7).  Ferries,  —  tiom 
W.  Falls  Ave.  to  Federal  Hill ;  from  Broadway  to  liocust  Point. 

The  Bay  Line  of  steamboats  forms  one  of  the  main  pleasure-routes  to  the  South. 
The  boats  leave  Baltimore  at  4  p.  m.  (on  arrival  of  ]>assengers  who  leave  New  Tork 
by  the  9  a.  m.  train),  and  passes  down  the  Chesapeake  Bay,  connecting  at  Ports- 
mouth, Va.  (early  the  next  morning),  with  the  Seaboard  k  JSoanoke  R.  R.  for  the 
South-Atlantic  States. 

Baltimore,  the  metropolis  of  the  State  of  Maryland,  aiid  ond  of  the 
chief  commercial  cities  of  the  Republic,  is  situated  on  a  deep  and  narrow 
estuary  2^  M.  from  the  Patapsco  River  and  about  14  M.  from  Chesa- 
peake Bay.  It  is  favorably  located  for  coinmerce  by  reason  of  its  fme 
harbor  and  an  open  connection  with  the  sea  either  by  Chesapeake  Bay  or 
by  the  Chesapeake  &  Delaware  Canal  (200  M. ).  Several  railroads  from 
the  West  convei^e  here,  and  large  shipments  of  grain  are  made  to  Europe. 
,  The  city  is  the  chief  point  for  working  the  rich  copper-ores  of  Lake  Su- 

I  perior,  besides  great  quantities  from  Chili  and  Cuba,  and  produces  nearly 

4,000  tons  of  refined  copper  yearly.  Tlie  smelting-works  are  in  the  suburb 
of  Canton,  and  employ  1,000  men.  Millions  of  feet  of  lumber  are  re- 
ceived here  every  year,  and  are  piled  near  Jones'  Falls.  The  bituminous 
coal  of  the  Cumberland  district  and  the  anthracite  of  the  Susquehanna 
Valley  are  brought  hither  to  the  amount  of  nearly  1,000,000  tons  annually. 
There  are  large  iron-works  and  rolling-mills;  nail-factories  turning  out 
100,000  kegs  yearly;  and  2  locomotive-f .stories.  50,000  hogsheads  of 
tobacco  are  received  yearly,  being  provided  for  in  large  and  dry  fire-proof 
warehouses  belonging  to  the  State.  1,000,000  barrels  of  flour  are  in- 
spected here  yearly,  and  enormous  quantities  of  grain  pass'to  Europe  by 
this  port.  The  new  elevator  at  Locust  Point  has  52  bins  and  a  capacity 
of  1,600,000  bushels,  and  the  docks  and  railroads  in  that  part  of  the  city 
greatly  facilitate  the  trans-shipment  of  coal  and  grain.  500,000  hides  are 
annually  made  into  leather  and  sent  to  the  New  England  States,  and  shoe- 
factories  are  now  being  successfully  established.  300,000  barrels  of  sugar 
are  refined  yearly;  400,000  barrels  of  whiskey  are  sold;  40,000  bales  of 
cotton  are  used  in  the  mills;  1,500,000  pounds  of  wool  are  made  into 
cloth;  40,0(X)  tons  of  Peruvian  guano  are  imported  ;  25  firms  are  engaged 
in  packing  Chesapeake  Bay  oysters;  thousands  of  hands  are  employed  in 
manufacturing  clothing;  coffee  and  other  West  Indian  products  are  im- 
ported in  immense  quantities;  pianos  are  made  in  great  numbers;  and 
over  $10,000,000  worth  of  live  stock  are  sold  here.  These  returns  of  ti.e 
trade  of  Baltimore  date  from  10  years  ago,  and  are  far  exceeded  by  the 


m 


BALTIMORE. 


RmUe  61      397 


pment  conditions.  Many  of  the  fleetest  and  most  beautiful  vessels  of  the 
American  commercial  marine  are  made  here,  and  the  reputation  of  the 
**  Baltimore  Clippers  "  is  world-w'de.  The  chief  manufactures  of  the  city 
are  on  the  fine  water-i)ower8  of  Gwynne's  and  Jones'  Falls. 

The  population  of  the  city  was  267,354  in  1870,  and  is  now  estimated 
at  over  800,000,  with  a  valuation  of  $225,000,000.  The  tonnage  of  the 
port  is  250,000  tons,  and  it  has  a  foreign  commerce  of  $20,000,000  a  year. 
There  are  ^0  banks  and  9  savings  banks,  and  5  daily  and  several  weekly 
newspapers.  The  city  is  picturesquely  situated  on  a  cluster  of  hills,  and 
is  surrounded  by  a  fertile  and  diversified  country.  The  municipal  limits 
cover  about  12  square  M.,  and  are  bounded  on  the  N.  by  North  Ave.,  a 
fine  thoroughfare  100  ft.  wide  and  4  M.  long.  The  business  quarter  is 
between  Eutaw  St.,  Baltimore  St.,  Jones'  Falls,  and  the  basin,  and  has 
many  fine  mercantile  buUdings;  while  the  W.  part  of  the  city  is  devoted 
to  pleasant  residence-streets. 

Baltimore  Sti  is  the  main  thoroughfare  of  the  retail  trade,  and  affords 
a  brilliant  spectacle  on  pleasant  afternoons.  Here  may  be  seen  thousands 
of  the  ladies  of  Baltimore,  who  are  pre-eminent  among  their  American 
sisters  for  brilliant  and  enduring  beauty  and  vivacity.  The  *  City  Hall 
is  a  new  edifice  on  the  comer  of  Lexington  and  Holliday  Sts.,  and  is  one 
of  the  most  imposing  municipal  buildings  in  America.  It  was  built 
between  1867  and  1874,  and  cost  nearly  $  3,000,000.  The  architecture  is 
Benaissance  and  composite,  with  many  graceful  Palladian  arches;  and 
the  building  is  surmounted  by  a  round  tower  and  dome,  222  ft.  high. 
The  walls  are  5-7  ft.  thick,  of  Maryland  marble,  and  all  the  floors  are 
of  iron,  brick,  and  cement.  There  are  200  rooms  and  2  inner  court  yards, 
and  t<he  front  is  adorned  with  Corinthian  columns.  The  dimensions  of 
this  municipal  palace  are  225  x  140  ft.,  and  its  general  effect  is  to  be 
improved  by  the  removal  of  the  adjacent  buildings.  The  U.  S.  Court 
House  is  near  the  City  Hall  (comer  of  North  and  Fayette  Sts.),  and  is  a 
plain  and  substantial  granite  building. 

The  Battle  Honameiit  is  one  of  the  fine  works  of  memorial  art  which 
have  won  for  Baltimore  the  title  of  ''the  Monimiental  City."  It  was 
erected  in  1815  to  honor  the  memory  of  the  soldiers  who  fell  in  defending 
the  city  against  the  British,  in  Sept.,  1814.  It  is  52  ft.  high,  and  rests 
on  a  base  20  ft.  high  (in  Egyptian  architecture).  Tlie  shaft  is  in  the  form 
of  the  Roman  fasces,  bound  together  with  fillets  whereon  are  inscribed 
the  names  of  t^  e  fallen  soldiers.  At  the  base  are  bas-reliefs  of  the  battle 
of  North  Point  and  the  bombardment  of  Fort  McHenry;  and  the  shaft  is 
surmounted  by  a  colossal  female  figure  representing  the  city  of  Baltimore, 
mural-crowned,  and  bearing  in  one  hand  a  rudder  (emblematic  of  her 
commerce)  and  in  the  other  a  wreath  of  laurel. 

Passing  N.  from  Monument  Square  and  its  great  hotels,  Calvert  St. 


J 


398     Route  64. 


BALTIHOBJBL 


\ 


soon  reachei  the  Calvert  Spring,  aronnd  which  •  ilnldl  ptblio  iqtuurc  is 
laid  oat.  ■  The  monument  which  was  erected  here  in  honor  of  Qen. 
Armisteftd  (the  defender  of  Fort  McHenry)  has  fallen  into  decay.  A 
short  distance  beyond  this  point  is  the  Calvert  Btetion  of  the  Northern 
Central  R.  R.,  an  imposing  building  815  ft.  long,  with  42  cohunns  of 
granite.  St.  Ignatius  Church  and  Convent  (Jesuit)  is  at  the  comer  of 
Calvert  and  Madison  Sts.,  and  is  renowned  for  its  brilliant  fresco^  The 
Loyola  Oollege  is  a  Jesuit  institution  at  the  comer  of  Madison  and 
Calvert  Sts.,  with  10  instractors,  141  students,  and  a  library  of  25,000 
volumes.  Madison  St.  leads  E.  to  the  great  new  castellated  building  of 
granite  and  marble  (404  ft.  long)  which  is  occupied  for  the  City  Jail,  near 
wliich  are  the  dark  and  frowning  walls  of  the  Penitentiary. 

The  AthensBum  is  at  the  comer  of  St.  Paul  and  Saratoga  Sts.,  and 
contains  the  Mercantile  Library  and  Reading-Rooms  (35,000  volumes ; 
open  from  10  a.  m.  until  10  p.  m.),  the  Baltimore  Library  (15,000  vol- 
umes), and  the  halls  of  the  Maryland  Historical  Society  (2d  story).  The 
latter  society  has  a  library  of  10,000  volumes;  a  collection  of  curiosities, 
among  which  is  Pulaski's  faded  banner  (see  page  802) ;  and  numerous 
casts  and  paintings,  among  which  are  portraits  of  George  Peabody,  Lord 
Baltimore,  and  18  eminent  soldiers  and  statesmen  of  Maryland.  In  the 
picture-gallery  are  held  exhibitions  of  American  paintings. 
-  The  new*  Masonic  Temple  is  an  imposing  structure  (on  Charles  St., 
hear  Saratoga  St.),  which  was  dedicated  in  1870,  and  cost  9400,000.  The 
main  hall  is  much  used  for  concerts  and  lectures.  Above  the  Temple 
is  St.  Paul's  Churchy  the  seat  of  the  Episcopal  Bishop  of  Maryland.  It 
is  on  the  comer  of  Saratoga  and  Charles  Sts.,  and  overlooks  the  Old 
Town.  The  ar&hitei^ture  is  Norman,  with  an  interior  adomed  with 
memorial  tablets,  a  timber  roof,  and  a  fine  brass  lectern,  and  resembling 
the  old  basilicas.  It  occupies  the  site  of  an  older  church  of  the  same 
name  and  sect,  which  was  founded  by  the  provincial  authorities  in  1781. 
To  the  W.  (comer  of  Saratoga  and  Park  Sts.)  is  the  tall  church  of  St. 
Alpkonsus,  held  by  the  G^irman  Catholics. 

The  *  Cathedral  is  an  imposing  structure  of  granite,  situated  at  the 
comer  of  Cathedral  and  Mulberry  Sts.  It  is  166  ft.  long  and  115  ft.  broad 
in  the  transepts,  and  is  surmounted  by  a  dome  127  ft.  high.  The  interior 
contains  one  of  the  largest  organs  in  America  (600  pipes  and  36  stops),  and 
2  fine  paintings,  —  The  Descent  from  the  Cross,  presented  by  Louis  XVI. 
of  France  (painted  by  Stubens)  ;  and  St.  Louis  burying  his  Soldiers  slain 
before  Tunis,  given  by  Charles  X.  (painted  by  Paul  Gu^rin).  The  massive 
front  is  flanked  by  graceful  towers,  and  is  adorned  with  a  bold  classie 
portico  upheld  by  8  Ionic  columns.  The  building  was  commenced  in  1806 
and  consecrated  in  1821.  Under  the  adjacent  mansion  of  the  Primate 
Archbishop  are  the  crypts  in  which  are  buried  the  past  archbishops  of 
this  diocese. 


BALTIMORE 


SatUtei      899 


The 
Temple 
id.  It 
he  Old 
with 
mbling 
same 
1731. 
of  St, 


The  Aeadtmjf  of  Skieneet  has  recently  taken  poseeesion  of  iti  new  bnfldr 
ing  on  Mulberry  St.  (opposite  Cathedral  St. ),  and  has  on  exhibition  a  fine 
museum  of  natural  sciences.  The  fauna  and  flora  Maryland  are 
thoroughly  represented,  and  the  mineralogical  and  omitnological  coUee- 
tions  represent  types  from  all  lands. 

,  Beyond  the  Cathedral,  at  the  comer  of  Charles  and  FranUin  Sts.,  is  the 
iblassic  front  of  the  First  Unitarian  Church,  on  whose  pediment  is  a  re- 
markable piece  of  statuary.  This  quaint  structure  is  entered  by  8  bronze 
doors.  The  Convent  of  the  Visitation  has  a  spacious  pile  of  buildings  at 
the  comer  of  Park  and  Centre  Sis.  In  advancing  up  Charles  St.,  the 
yTashington  Monument  is  seen  on  the  crest  of  the  hill,  with  the  Peabody 
Institute  on  the  r.  Fronting  the  monument  is  the  elegant  *  Mount  Venttm 
Church  (Methodist),  which  is  built  of  green  serpentine  from  Delaware, 
trimmed  with  yellow  Ohio  stone,  red  Connecticut  sandstone,  and  polished 
Scotch  granite.  ■    .         '.*f 

The  <^  WaeUngton  Konument  in  the  pride  of  Baltimore,  and  is  sitn- 
ated  on  an  eminence  100  ft.  above  tide,  at  the  intersection  of  Mt.  Veraoa 
and  Washington  Places.  From  a  base  50  ft.  square  and  20  ft.  high,  riseo 
A  Doric  shaft  of  marble  masonry  to  the  height  of  176^  ft.,  which  is  sur* 
mounted  by  a  colossal  statue  of  Washington  16  ft.  high.  The  monument 
was  built  between  1815  and  1829,  and  cost  $200,000.  The  ascent  to  the 
base  of  the  statue  is  effected  by  228  steps,  leading  up  on  a  circular  stair- 
.way  through  the  dark  shell  of  the  shaft  (admission  fee,  15c. ).  The  *  view 
from  the  summit  is  broad  and  interesting,  and  includes  the  densely  popu- 
lated streets  of  the  city,  with  its  spires  and  squares;  the  harbor  and  ship- 
ping,  with  Forts  McHenry  and  Carroll,  and  the  Chesapeake  Bay;  the  dark 
hills  of  Anne  Arundel ;  and  the  villas  and  parks,  asylums  and  cemeteries, 
on  the  suburban  heights.  The  Monument  stands  at  the  central  point  of  a 
cross  which  is  formed  by  the  intersection  of  Mount  Vemon  and  Washing- 
ton Places,  whose  naiTow  and  verdant  lawns  are  flanked  by  fine  mansiotuL 

The  *Peabody  Institate  is  near  the  Monument,  and  is  a  stately 
marble  building,  145  ft.  long.  The  Institute  consists  of  the  departments 
of  literature,  music,  lectures,  and  art,  and  was  designed  by  its  munificent 
founder  for  the  diffusion  of  knowledge  among  the  masses.  The  library  is 
free  to  all  comers,  and  consists  of  60,000  volumes,  occupying  a  hall  100  ft 
long.  The  lecture-hall  is  the  finest  in  the  city  (except  the  new  Masonic 
Hall),  and  is  used  by  the  highest  class  of  lecturers  (also  by  concerts  of 
classic  music).  Cheap  instmction  is  here  given  in  music  and  singing  by 
professors  of  skill  and  eminence.  The  Gallery  of  Art  is  not  yet  com- 
pleted; but  the  lobby  of  the  library  contains  a  statue  of  Venus,  a  bust  of 
Pocahontas,  and  a  graceful  *  statue  of  Clytie,  by  Rinehart.  There  is  a 
fine  full-length  portrait  of  Mr.  Peabody  in  the  upper  corridor,  near  the 
library. 


400     R(mUe4. 


BALTIMORE. 


Ownuii  PiABODT  WM  boTii  at  8.  Danven  (now  oaU«d  PMbodyX  Mam.,  In  1705. 
Re  became  a  grocery  clerk  at  11 :  was  then  engaKed  in  the  dnr-goode  busineM  in 
Newburyport,  Now  York,  and  Baltimore,  in  lucceasiun  ;  and  in  1848  became  a 
banker  in  London.  Hie  gains  were  large,  and  hin  benefactions  princely.  Among 
them  were,  910,000  to  the  Orinnell  Arctic  expedition,  880,000  to  tlie  Newbury> 
port  Library;  a  memorial  church  at  Georgetown,  Mans,  (to  hiH  mother's  mem* 
cry);  9200,000  to  his  native  town;  •  150,000  each  to  Harvard  and  Yale  Col< 
leges  ;  $  1,400,000  for  the  Institute  at  Baltimore ;  $  2,000,000  to  the  Southern  £du> 
OMional  Fund :  and  •2,fi00,000  to  the  poor  of  the  city  of  London.  He  was  offered 
the  honors  of  knlghlJiood ;  received  ttom  Queen  Victoria  her  portrait  set  in  dia- 
monds ;  WIS  given  the  Hreedom  of  the  city  of- London  ;  and  after  his  death  (1869) 
his  remains  were  sent  to  America  in  funeral  state  on  one  of  the  finest  vessels  of 
the  British  navy. 

In  this  vicinity  are  several  handsome  churches.  The  First  Presbyterian 
(comer  of  Madison  and  Park  Sts.)  is  a  bitilding  of  Albert  freestone,  in 
lancet  Gtothic  architecture  (the  spire  is  to  be  286  ft.  high).  The  Emanuel 
Episcopal  Church  (comer  of  Reed  and  Cathedral  Sts. )  is  a  massive  strac- 
ture  of  gray  sandstone,  and  Orace  C!huTch  (comer  of  Monument  and  Park 
Sts.)  is  a  brown-stone  building  with  a  clere-story.  Christ  Church  is  a  new 
and  elegant  marble  temple  of  the  Episcopalians,  situated  at  the  comer  of 
St.  Paul  and  Chase  Sts. ;  and  still  farther  out  (near  the  comer  of  O'larles  St. 
and  North  Ave. )  is  the  costly  building  of  the  Maryland  Institutioii  for  the 
Instraction  of  the  Blind.  Beyond  this  point  Charles  St.  run»  en  into  the 
open  country,  traversing  a  picturesque  region  dotted  with  villas  and  parks. 
This  road  forms  a  pleasant  drive  as  far  as  Lake  Roland  (6  M.  distant). 

The  *  Exohange  is  a  fine  building  240  ft.  long,  with  porticos  of  mon- 
olithic  Ionic  columns  of  Italian  marble.  It  is  on  Gay  St.,  between  2d 
and  Lombard  Sts.,  and  was  built  in  1820  (after  Latrobe's  designs)  at  a 
cost  of  $600,000.  The  stracture  is  surmoimted  oy  a  dome  115  ft.  high 
and  53  ft.  in  diameter,  which  is  brilliantly  frescoed  and  overarches  a 
spacious  rotunda.  The  U.  S.  Custom  House,  the  Post-OfSce,  and  other 
public  institutions  are  located  here.  Near  this  point  is  Exchange  Place, 
where  much  of  the  wholesale  trade  is  done ;  and  the  financial  head-quarters 
are  along  South  St  and  2d  St.  Farther  S.  is  the  Basin,  lined  with 
wharves  and  small  vessels;  and  the  Com  Exchange  has  a  handsome  hall 
between  Pratt  St.  and  the  water.  The  Rialto  Building  is  a  fine  Renais- 
sance stracture  at  the  comer  of  2d  and  Holliday  Sts  ;  and  at  the  comer 
of  Baltimore  and  South  Sts.  is  the  tall  iron  building  of  the  Sun  news- 
paper. To  the  E.  (comer  of  Baltimore  St.  and  Harrison)  is  the  Mary- 
land Institute,  a  spacious  brick  building  which  dates  from  1854,  and  is 
devoted  to  the  advancement  of  the  mechanic  arts.  The  lower  hall  is 
occupied  by  the  Centre  Market  (fine  displays  of  Maryland  produce),  and 
above  are  the  library  (20,000  volumes),  schools  of  design,  and  the  great 
hall,  where  industrial  exhibitions  are  held  in  October  of  each  year.  The 
hall  accommodates  over  5,000  persons,  and  is  historically  interesting  as 
the  seat  of  the  seceding  Southem  Democratic  Convention  of  1860,  which 
nominated  Brv.;ckinridge  ibr  the  Presidency  of  the  Republic 


BALTIMOREL 


Hmu  64.      401 


Beyond  the  Institute  Baltimore  St.  crosses  /oiim'  FtUla,  a  snail  *xi  nu 
which  rises  about  20  M.  distant,  and  flows  down  through  a  pictureii4iue 
▼alley.  In  the  rainy  season  it  becomes  turbulent  and  dangerous,  and 
sometimes  floods  the  lower  part  of  the  city,  causing  immense  damage  and 
loss  of  life.  Beyond  the  Falls  Baltimore  St.  leads,  by  the  fine  building 
of  the  2d  Presbyterian  Church,  to  Broadway,  a  wide  and  beautiful 
street  which  runs  S.  to  the  Fell's  Point  Market  and  the  harbor.  The 
JScutem  Fountain  (a  small  park*around  a  spring  of  fresh  water)  is  on 
this  side,  and  is  much  visited  by  the  Qerman  citizens  on  summer  even* 
ings.  Baltimore  St.  continues  on  to  Patterson  Parky  a  pleasant  public 
garden  of  70  acres  area,  containing  the  remains  of  old  earthworks  erected 
for  the  defence  of  the  city.  The  view  from  this  park  is  broad  and 
pleasant,  including  the  dense  lines  of  houses  stretching  down  the  valley 
of  Jones'  Falls,  the  monument-crowned  heights  beyond,  the  great  copper- 
works  in  Canton,  and  %  wide  sweep  of  the  Patapsco  and  the  Bay.  To 
the  N.  is  an  undulating  rural  country,  on  one  of  whose  ridges  is  seen  the 
Bay  View  Asylum,  an  imposing  building  714  ft.  long  and  3  stories  high, 
situated  in  an  ornamental  park  of  48  acres,  and  overlooking  the  bay  and 
city.  It  cost  $1,000,000,  required  7,000,000  bricks  for  the  construction, 
and  accommodates  SOO  paupers. 

The  Odd  Fellowi'  Momunent  is  on  Broadway,  above  Wildey  St.,  and 
consists  of  an  inscribed  base,  a  pedestal  carved  with  emblems  of  the 
order,  and  a  fluted  Doric  column,  which  supports  a  statue  of  Charity 
protecting  orphan  children. 

This  monument  is  a  memorial  to  Thomas  Wildey,  the  founder  of  the  Independent 
Order  of  Odd  Fellows  in  America.  April  20, 1819,  Mr.  Wildey.  an  obscure  English 
mechanic,  formed  and  instituted  at  Baltimore  tlie  Washington  Lodge,  No.  1,  I.  O. 
O.  F. ,  the  first  lodge  in  America  of  that  powerful  order,  which  by  18t)5  numbered 
427,000  members,  and  had  raised  927,000,000  for  charitable  works.  Wildey  trav- 
elled through  all  parts  of  the  country  founding  new  lodges,  and  died  in  1801.  "  the 
lips  of  the  iatherless  and  widow  invoking  blessings  upon  him."  April  26, 1865,  the 
city  was  made  brilliant  by  the  processions  of  an  Immense  host  of  Odd  Fellows, 
who  then  met  to  dedicate  the  monument,  and  to  renew  the  fraternal  ties  which 
had  been  broken  by  the  Secession  War. 

Jackson  Square  is  near  the  monument,  but  is  yet  unimproved.  It  is  on 
the  crest  of  the  ridge,  and  overlooks  the  Chesapeake.  To  the  W.  is  the 
Church  Home,  a  charitable  institution  under  the  care  of  the  Episcopal 
Church.  The  old  Maryland  Hospital  is  on  Monument  St.,  E.  of  Broad- 
way (the*  site  of  the  new  Johns  Hopkins  Hospital) ;  and  the  Hebrew 
Hospital  is  in  the  same  vicinity. 

The  Odd  Fellows'  Hall  is  on  Gay  St.,  and  is  a  handsome  Gothic  build- 
ing with  a  square  tower,  containing  a  large  library.  The  Church  of  the 
Messiah  is  at  the  comer  of  Gay  and  Fayette  Sts. ;  and  at  the  comer  of 
Fayette  and  Front  Sts.  is  the  Merchants'  Shot  Tower,  246  ft.  high  and 
20-40  ft.  in  diameter.    The  masonry  contains  1,100,000  bricks,  and  the 


402     JlouU  64. 


BALTIMORE. 


top  otoillatM  through  10  inohei  dnriug  heavy  wlndt.  Cky  8i  mni  out 
by  the  Bellair  Market,  and  paseea  (at  the  interaection  or  AiaqnUh  and 
Monument  Sta. )  the  Wells  and  McComoa  Monument,  a  plain  memorial 
in  Ashland  Square,  erected  over  the  remains  of  the  young  soldiers  who 
ihot  Oen.  Rosa,  the  British  commander  (Sept.  12, 1812). 

The  Hanover  Market  is  a  spacious  building  at  the  corner  of  Camden 
and  Hanover  Sts.,  beyond  which  (on  Camden  St. )  is  the  Camdan  BtatiOA 
of  the  Baltimore  k  Ohio  R.  R.,  with  a  front  808  ft.  long,  adorned  with  a 
steeple  186  ft.  high.  At  the  comer  of  liombard  and  Greene  Sts.  are  tlie 
old  buildings  of  the  School  of  Medicine  of  the  Uuiversity  of  Maryland 
(foundeil  1807;  8  professors  and  170  students).  The  Medical  School  of 
the  Washington  University  has  0  professors  and  147  students ;  and  the 
College  of  Dental  Surgery  has  0  professors  and  69  students.  At  the 
comer  of  Oreene  and  Fayette  Sts.  is  the  Westminster  Presbyterian 
Church,  in  whose  burying-ground  is  the  neglected  grave  of  Edgar  Allah 
Poe  (bora  at  Baltimore  in  1811,  and  died  here  in  1849).  This  erratic 
gen\us  passed  his  short  life  in  reckless  misadventure,  but  achieved  an  un- 
fading  fame  for  the  fantastic  beauty  and  marvellous  melody  of  his  poems. 

Franklin  Square  is  a  pleasant  public  ground  in  the  W.  part  of  the 
city,  on  which  fronts  a  Baptist  Church  of  white  marble;  and  the  ornate 
iron  building  of  Bethany  Methodist  Church  is  on  the  farther  angle  of  the 
square,  neat  the  Oothio  buildings  of  the  Homes  for  Aged  Men  and  Women. 

The  Madison  Ave.  horse-cars,  on  their  way  to  Druid  Hill,  pass  near  the 
tall  marble  spire  of  the  Eutaw  Place  Baptist  Church  (designed  by  Walter); 
and  at  the  comer  of  Druid  Hill  Ave.  and  Lanvale  St.  is  the  broad  and  im- 
posing marble  church  of  St.  Peter  (Episcopal).  St.  Luke* a  is  near  Frank- 
Uu  Square,  and  has  the  richest  stained-glass  windows  in  the  city  (repre- 
senting the  Messianic  history).  This  society  is  Ritualistic  in  its  position 
and  ceremonies.  The  N.  W.  part  of  the  city  and  the  avenues  leading 
toward  Dmid  Hill  are  being  rapidly  occupied  by  fine  residences. 

*  Druid  Hill  Park  is  about  ^  M.  N.  of  the  city- limits,  and  is  reached 
by  the  Madison  Ave.  horse-cars.  It  covers  about  680  acres,  and  has  cost 
over  $  1,500,000.  In  1860  the  city  bought  the  old  Rogers  estate  (on  this 
site),  consisting  of  500  acres,  and  adorned  with  groves  and  lawns  which 
were  laid  out  over  a  century  ago.  The  chief  attraction  of  the  park  iii 
in  its  rich  forest-scenery  and  picturesque  diversity  of  surface  ;  and  well- 
'graded  roads  and  paths  traverse  the  grounds  in  all  directions.  *  The  treet 
are  the  grandest  and  oldest  in  any  American  park,  and  were  skilfully 
aiTanged  by  the  pre-Revolutionar}'  landscape-gardener,  so  that  the  har- 
monies and  contrasts  of  the  colors  of  the  foliage  are  Very  pleasing  to  the 
eye.  Forest  glades  and  dark  green  vistas  alternate  with  velvety  lawns 
and  breezy  hills;  and  the  immense  tranks  of  the  ancient  oak  and  hickory 
trees  rise  like  columns  through  the  forests.    Certain  of  the  more  promi- 


BALTIMORE. 


JUmU  64.     40S 


nent  of  these  treet  have  reeeiyed  elgniflcmt  name*,  m  the  Sentinels,  the 
King  of  the  Woods,  the  Seven  Oaks,  the  Twin  Beeches,  and  the  CouncU 
Orove  (a  clnster  of  noble  oaks  under  whose  branches  the  Indians  formerly 
met  in  council). 

The  horHe-cHfs  mn  far  into  the  park,  and  the  entrance  is  through  a 
handsome  archway  of  dressed  stone.  There  is  bnt  little  artistic  or  ar- 
ohitectural  eiubelUshment  on  the  grounds,  since  such  ornament  has  been 
sonsidered  superfluous  in  view  of  the  other  attractions.  Some  of  tho 
springs  which  itow  freely  near  the  drives  have  been  ailomed  with  marble 
work,  and  ther^  are  a  few  pieces  of  indifferent  statuary.  Near  the  centre 
is  the  old  Rogers  mansion,  which  is  326  ft.  above  the  tide,  and  commands 
pleasant  views.  To  the  N.  is  a  conical  hill  whence  another  and  broader 
prospect  is  gained,  the  altitude  being  36G  ft. ;  and  still  another  favorite 
view-point  is  from  the  tower  near  Druid  Lake.  The  city  is  seen,  with  itf 
monuments  and  spires;  the  Patapsco  lies  beyond  ;  and  the  Chesapeaka 
Bay  is  overlooked  as  far  down  as  Kent's  Island  and  Annapolis. 

The  High  Service  Reservoir  is  in  the  N.  W.  part  of  the  park,  and  covert 
9  acres,  — furnishing  a  water-supply  to  the  hills  of  Baltimore.  Dmid 
Lake  is  on  the  S.,  and  is  a  natural  basin  with  a  water-surface  of  66  acres, 
with  20-39  ft.  of  water,  and  a  capacity  of  600,000,000  gallons  (217  ft. 
above  tide).  The  water-supply  of  the  city  is  draw*'  from  Ixike  Roland, 
an  artificial  reservoir  8  M.  to  the  N.  W.,  covering  116  acres,  and  retained 
by  a  stone  dam  60  ft.  thick  and  40  ft.  high.  An  oval  brick  aqueduct  6  M. 
long  and  6  ft.  high  leads  to  the  Hampden  and  Mount  Royal  Reservoiia. 

*  Oreenmonnt  Cemetery  is  about  2  M.  N.  of  Baltimore  St.  (by  York 
Road  horse-cars),  and  covers  60  acres.  It  was  founded  in  1838,  upon  the 
foinner  domain  of  Uub^rt  Oliver,  and  has  cost  $250,000.  The  landscape^ 
gardening  and  embellishment  have  been  done  with  much  skill,  and  the 
grounds  are  carefully  guarded  (tickets  of  admission  may  be  obtained  at 
No.  1  Cortland  St  n  The  entrance  is  an  imposing  piece  of  feudal  archi* 
tecture,  80  ft.  lorg,  and  surmounted  with  turrets.  Opposite  this  point  ia 
the  quaint  and  striking  Gothic  chapel,  and  the  Mausoleum  is  a  massive 
structure  in  Egyptian  architecture.  There  are  some  choice  pieces  of 
sculpture  here,  chief  among  which  are  Rinehart's  fine  works,  "  Immor- 
tality "  and  " The  Sleeping  Children."  The  Symbolic  statues  of  "  Hope** 
and  "  Resignation  "  are  also  much  admired.  The  grave  of  Major  Ring- 
gold (a  veteran  of  the  Mexican  War)  is  fenced  in  by  Mexican  gim-barrels. 
The  McDonogh  Monument  is  adorned  by  a  portrait-statue  (^  larger  than 
life)  of  John  McDonogh,  an  eccentric  gentleman  who  was  bom  at  Balti- 
more in  1778,  and  removed  to  New  Orleans  in  1800,  where  he  died  in 
1850.  His  immense  fortune  was  bequeathed  to  the  cities  of  New  Orleans 
and  Baltimore,  and  to  the  American  Colonization  Society.  The  monu- 
ment was  erected  by  the  municipality  of  Baltimore. 


I 


404      R(nUe  64. 


6ALTIM0RR 


The  *  Loudon  Park  Cemetery  is  2^-3  M.  firom  the  centre  of  the  city 
(Franklin  Square  and  Ellicott  City  oars),  and  covers  100  acres.  The 
grounds  are  picturesquely  diversified,  and  from  the  hills  pleasant  views 
of  the  city  and  bay  are  gained.  The  *  Fitzgerald  mausoleum  is  adorned 
■with  statues  of  ** The  Redeemer"  and  **  The  Angel  of  the  Resurrection," 
and' with  finely  sculptured  vases  (all  by  Rinehart).  Tlie  entrance  to 
Loudon  Park  is  through  an  imposing  gateway,  which  resembles  a  tri- 
umphal arch. 

The  Bcdtitrwre  Cemetery  is  a  large  and  well-arranged  ground  occupying 
the  heights  N.  E.  of  the  city  (reached  by  Gay  St.  horse-cars). 

Federal  Hill  is  S.  of  the  centre  of  the  city,  and  is  a  prominent  land- 
mark over  the  Bay  and  Basin.  The  views  from  the  summit  are  very 
interesting,  including  the  city  and  the  adjacent  waters.  After  Gen. 
Butler's  night-march  and  occupation  of  this  hill,  it  was  fortified  by 
Duryea's  Zouaves,  to  guard  the  city  against  her  foes  (whether  foreign 
or  domestic).  Fort  McHenry  is  about  3  M.  from  the  City  Hall,  on 
Whetstone  Point,  and  commands  the  harbor.  It  is  a  star- work  of  the 
old  style  (built  in  1794),  and  has  a  moderate  armament.  The  sentinels 
will  usually  admit  visitors,  and  pleasant  views  of  the  harbor  are  afforded 
from  the  ramparts.  4  M.  below,  and  commanding  the  Patapsco,  is  the 
artificial  island  which  sustains  the  costly  and  powerful  Fort  Carroll  (not 
yet  completed)^  with  its  heavy  artillery.  Just  above  Fort  McHenry  is 
Locust  Point,  where  are  the  docks  of  the  European  steamers  and  the 
immense  elevators  and  freight-depots  of  the  Bait.  &  Ohio  R.  R.,  whence 
the  grain  and  coal  shipments  are  made.  Fort  McHenry  and  Locust  Point 
are  reached  by  the  S.  Baltimore  horse-cars,  which  run  S.  from  the  comer 
of  Baltimore  and  Hanover  Sts. 

The  Maryland  Hospital  for  the  Insane  occupies  an  estate  of  136  acres 
6  M.  from  the  city,  near  the  suburb  of  Catonsville.  Since  1852  the  State 
has  appropriated  over  $  400,000  to  this  work,  and  a  massive  pile  of  build- 
ings has  been  erected  on  the  far-viewing  heights.  It  is  600  ft.  long,  and 
accommodates  300  patients,  the  walls  being  of  heavy  granite  masonry. 
The  Sheppard  Asylum  for  the  Insane  is  7  M.  from  the  city,  near  Towson- 
town,  and  was  endowed  by  Moses  Sheppard,  a  wealthy  Quaker,  who  left 
$  600,000  for  the  purpose.  The  Mount  Hope  Hospital  for  the  Insane  is  4 
M.  distant,  on  the  Reisterstown  road,  and  is  an  immense  brick  building 
situated  amid  ornamental  grounds.  It  cares  for  500  patients,  and  is 
managed  by  the  Sisters  of  Charity,  who  also  superintend  the  Mount 
Hope  Asylum,  at  the  comer  of  North  Ave.  and  Bolton  St.  St.  Mary's 
Industrial  School  for  Boys  is  2  M.  S.  W.  of  the  city,  and  is  an  immense 
stone  building  which  accommodates  400  laoys.  The  Johns  Hopkins  Hos- 
pital is  being  raised  on  the  site  of  the  old  Maryland  Hospital,  and  will 
be,  perhaps,  the  finest  in  America.    The  endowment  is  immense,  being 


BALTIMORE. 


JioiUe  64.     405 


of  the  city 
Eicres.  The 
asant  views 

is  adorned 
surrection," 
entrance  to 
ables  a  tri- 

I  occupying 

linent  land- 
nit  are  very 
After  Gen. 
fortified  by 
ther  foreign 
ty  Hall,  on 
•work  of  the 
rhe  sentinels 
are  afforded 
Eipsco,  is  the 
Carroll  (not 
McHenry  is 
lers  and  the 
B.,  whence 
locnst  Point 
the  comer 

of  136  acres 
152  the  State 
)ile  of  build- 
't.  long,  and 
;e  masonry, 
ear  Towson- 
Ler,  who  left 
Insane  is  4 
ick  building 
ents,  and  is 
the  Mount 
St.  Mary's 
an  immense 
bpkina  Hos- 
al,  and  will 
lense,  being 


stated  as  over  $2,000,000.  Mr.  Hopkins  died  in  1874,  bequeathing  also 
his  estate  of  Clifton  (near  the  city)  and  an  endowment  of  $2,000,000 
with  which  to  found  a  Univeraity  there. 

The  first  settler  on  the  site  of  Baltimore  was  David  Jones,  m  1682 ;  and  in  1730 
the  town  was  laid  out,  and  was  named  in  honor  of  Cecilius  Calvert,  Lord  Balti- 
more, the  proprietaiy  of  Maryland,  —who  derived  his  title  ft-oin  the  obscure  ma- 
rine hamlet  of  Baltimore,  on  the  Irish  (Munster)  coast.  The  new  settlement  was 
imperilled  by  the  advance  of  the  Western  Indians  in  1755,  and  its  women  and 
children  were  put  on  the  vessels  in  the  harl)or,  ready  to  flee  down  the  Bay.  In 
1756  a  colony  of  exiled  French  families  from  Acadia  settled  here  and  erected  the 
first  Catholic  chapel.  (It  is  generally  supposed  that  Baltimore  is  a  Catholic  city, 
but  such  is  not  the  case.  It  was  founded  by  Episcopalians  and  Friends,  and  a 
considerable  majority  of  the  citizens  are  Protestants  or  secularists.)  In  1768  the 
county-seat  was  fixed  here  ;  in  1773  the  Maryland  Journal  and  Baltimore  Adver- 
tiser was  founded ;  and  in  1776  the  Continental  Congress  assembled  here.  The 
port  was  now  becoming  famous  for  its  exportations  of  tobacco  and  grain.  In 
1776  fortifications  were  erected ;  in  1778  Pulaski's  Legion  was  organized  here,  and 
Baltimore  privateers  began  to  scour  the  coast; -in  1780  the  first  theatre  was 
opened ;  in  1782  a  stage-line  began  to  run  to  Philadelphia  ;  in  1797  the  town  was 
made  a  city ;  and  in  1803  Baltimore  was  made  the  seat  of  the  Primate  of  the  Bo- 
man  Catholic  Church  in  the  U.  S. 

The  increase  of  the  population  of  Baltimore  has  been  from  200  in  1752  to  5,934 
in  1776;  13,503  in  1790;  26,514  in  1800;  62,738  in  1820;  102,313  in  1840;  217,000 
in  1860;  267,354  in  1870  ;  and  (estimated)  330,000  in  1876. 

At  the  outbreak  of  the  Secession  War,  strenuous  attempts  were  made  to  detach 
Maryland  from  the  Union,  and  to  cut  off  Washington  from  the  loyal  North  by 
raising  Baltimore  in  revolt.  The  great  majority  of  the  people  were  patriotic  and 
loyal,  but  throngs  of  secessionists  came  into  the  city,  and  made  incendiary  ad- 
dresses and  riots.  April  19, 1861,  there  arrived  at  the  President  St.  station  2,000 
U.  S.  soldiers  (being  part  of  the  national  militia  called  out  by  the  President). 
The  6th  Mass.  started  across  the  city  to  take  tlie  cars  at  the  Washington  station ; 
but  the  re  *r  cars  (containing  4  companies)  were  cut  off  and  stopped,  and  the  troops 
were  forced  to  march  under  the  attacks  of  an  immense  and  infuriated  mob.  Along 
Pratt  St.,  between  Gay  and  Calvert  Sts.,  the  hostile  crowd  (numbering  prrjbably 
10,000  men)  made  a  heavy  attack  on  the  little  band,  upon  which  the  Mass.  soldiers 
turned  and  fired  a  8cathii\g  volley  into  theii*  faces.  At  last  the  Washington  station 
wa.s  reached,  after  the  troops  had  lost  3  killed  and  18  wounded  (the  mob  had  9 
killed  and  many  wounded).  The  6th  then  hurried  away  to  Washington,  and  was 
the  first  regiment  which  arrived  at  the  imperilled  capital.  The  secession  mob 
hurried  back  to  the  President  St.  station,  and  fell. upon  a  force  of  1,000  unarmed 
soldiers  of  Penn.  The  Union  citizens  of  Baltimore  were  now  hurrying  to  the 
rescue,  and  stood  shouldci  to  shoulder  with  the  Pennsylvanians  throughout  a 
fight  of  2  hours'  duration.  The  secessionists  then  controlled  the  city,  and  burned 
the  bridges  leading  to  the  N. ;  forbade  the  passage  of  th«>  national  militia ;  and  by 
ordinance  of  the  Common  Council  made  it  an  offence  to  display  the  American  flag 
in  the  streets.  May  1,  the  Unionists  raised  a  flag  over  the  Exchange  amid  un- 
bounded enthusiasm,  singing  the  "  Star-Spangled  Banner. "  General  Scott  planned 
to  crush  the  small  but  active  Secession  party  in  Baltimore  by  a  campaign  of 
12,000  men  converging  on  the  city  from  4  points;  but  Gen.  Butler  seized  the 
Relay  House  (Washington  Junction),  9  M.  distant ;  and  during  the  stormy  night 
of  May  13  entered  Baltimore  with  the  6th  Mass.,  the  8th  N.  Y.,  and  the  Boston 
Light  Artillery.  Pushing  through  the  deserted  streets,  the  troops  occupied  the 
summit  of  Federal  Hill,  commanding  the  city  with  their  artillery.  Baltimore 
was  soon  purged  of  its  demagogues  and  traitors,  and  remained  thereafter  as  patri- 
otic as  any  city  of  the  Union. 

The  Republican  National  Convention  held  its  sessions  at  the  Front  St.  Theatre 
in  1834,  and  nominated  Abraham  Lincoln  for  the  Presidency.  When  the  Confed- 
erate army  advanced  into  Maryland  in  1863  and  1864,  the  citizens  of  Baltimore 
took  up  arms  and  fortified  their  city  against  an  expected  attack  of  the  Southern 
invaders.  In  1865  the  restoration  of  the  National  authority  throughout  the  some- 
time insurgent  States  was  celebrated  here  by  grand  illuminations  and  parades. 


406     Route  66, 


ELLICOTT  CIIT. 


65.  Baltimore  to  the  West 

By  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R,  one  of  the  main  tranlc-lines  between  the  Atlan> 
tic  seaboard  and  the  great  States  and  cities  of  the  interior.  Cars  run  ttom  BhI- 
tiniore  to  Columbus,  Cincinnati,  and  8t.  Louis  without  change ;  and  but  one 
change  is  made  by  passengera  between  Baltimore  and  Omaha,  Memphis,  Mobile, 
New  Orleans,  or  Deuison  (Texas).  Baltimore  to  Cumberland,  7^-8  hrs. :  to 
Parkersl)urg,  16-17  hrs. ;  to  Cincinnati,  22-24  hrs. ;  to  St.  Louis,  37-38  hrs. 
i^'are^.  — Baltimore  to  Washington,  $l.:tO;  to  Pittsburgh,  90.50;  to  Wheeling, 
$12.50;  Columbus,  913.85;  Farkersburg,  915.20;  Cincinnati,  916;  Chicago, 
917;  St.  Louis,  923. 

The  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  B.  is  interesting  to  the  tourist  as  passing  through  the 
debatable  ground  over  which  the  National  and  Confederate  armies  fought  duritig 
tlie  years  of  the  Secession  War.  For  the  Urst  180  M.  of  its  course  there  is  scarce- 
ly a  town  but  what  was  the  scene  of  battle  or  skirmish  or  hostile  occupatibn  ;  and 
scarcely  a  bridge  biit  what  was  destroyed  by  raiding  cavalry  or  retreating  annies. 
The  scenery  along  the  line  is  of  great  interest  and  becomes  sublime  during  the 
long  ascent  and  passage  of  the  Alleghany  Mts.  Several  laive  hotels  have  been 
established  on  the  road,  and  are  operated  by  the  company,  aflbrdin^  facilities  for 
meals  to  passengers  on  through  trains,  which  stop  at  the  hotel-stations. 

Stations.  —  Baltimore ;  Carroll  Switch,  2  M. ;  Camden  Junction,  4  ;  Wash- 
ington  Junction,  9 ;  EUicott  City,  16 ;  Elysville,  20 ;  Woodstock,  26 ;  Marriotsville, 
27 ;  Sykesville,  32 ;  Mount  Airy,  43  ;  Monrovia,  50 ;  Frederick  Junction,  68 
(Frederick,  62);  Point  of  Rocks,  69  (Metropolitan  Branch,  to  Washington,  112  M. 
m>m  Baltimore) ;  Berlin,  75  ;  Hagerstown  Juncti6n,  79;  Sandy  Hook,  80 ;  Har- 


per's Ferry,  81 ;  Duffleld's,  87  ;  Keameysville.  92  ;  Vanclievesville,  95 ;  Martinsburg, 
ICO ;  North  Mountain,  1U7 ;  Sleepy  Creek,  117 ;  Hancock,  122 ;  Sir  John's  Run, 
128 ;  Willett's  Run,  133 ;  Rockwell's  Run,  139  ;  Little  Cacapon,  156 ;  Green  Spring, 


168 ;  Patterson's  Creek.  170 ;  Cumberland,  178 ;  Brady's  Mill,  186 ;  New  Creek, 
201 ;  Piedmont,  200 ;  Bloomington,  208  ;  Frankville,  214 ;  Swanton,  220  ;  Alta- 
mmit,  223  ;  Oakland,  232 ;  Cranberry  Summit,  242 ;  Cheat  River,  253 ;  Tunnelton, 
260  ;  Newburg,  267 ;  Thornton,  274 ;  Grafton,  280  ;  Texas,  294 ;  Fairmont,  802  ; 
Farmington,  312  ;  Mannington,  319 ;  Burton,  330 ;  Litdelon,  8.S7 ;  Bellton,  844 ; 
Cameron,  351 ;  Rosely's  Rock,  362 ;  BenwoOd,  375  ;  Wheeling,  879 ;  Zanesville, 
454 ;  Columbus,  613 :  Indianapolis,  701 ;  Chicago,  827. 
Parkersburg  Division.    Grafton,  280  ;  Webster,  284  ;  Flemington,  290  ;  Bridge- 

gort,  297;  Clarksburg,  802;  Wilsonburg,  306;  Salem,  816;  Long  Run,  821; 
mithton,  826 ;  Central,  382 ;  Pennsboro',  842 ;  Ellenboro',  347;  Corn wallis.  852; 
Laurel  Fork  Juuction,  864 ;  Walker's,  369  ;  Kanawha,  374 ;  Claysville,  877 ; 
Farkersburg,  884.    Cincinnati,  589 ;  Louisville,  699 ;  St.  Louis,  929. 

Oossing  the  stream  called  Gwynne's  Falls  by  the  CarroUton  Viaduct, 
the  line  traverses  the  old  Winans  estate  (celebrated  for  its  great  peach- 
orchards),  runs  through  the  costly  Deep-Cut,  and  follows  the  course  of 
Bobert's  Buii.  To  the  I.,  on  the  highway  to  Washington,  is  the  oldest 
American  telegraph,  which  vtas  constructed  in  1844  with  a  National  ap- 
propriation of  $  40,000.  The  first  message  was  sent  by  a  lady,  and  con- 
sisted of  the  words,  "  What  hath  Grod  wrought."  Washington  Jnnotion 
is  the  point  at  which  the  Washington  Branch  (Boute  66)  diverges  from 
the  m  ain  line  of  the  Bait.  &  Ohio  B.  B.,  and  is  seen  sweeping  away  to  the 
1.  over  the  grand  arches  of  the  Washington  Viaduct.  The  ♦  Viaduct  Hotel 
is  owned  by  the  railroad,  and  charges  $  2. 50  a  day  for  board  (meals,  75c. 
each).  The  train  now  turns  sharply  to  the  N.  W.  tip  the  rugged  ravine 
through  which  the  Patapsco  flows;  passes  the  Avalon  Iron- Works,  and 
crosses  the  river  near  Ilchester  Mills,  the  seat  of  the  Catholic  college  of 
Mount  St,  Gement    Sllioott  City  (1,722  inhabitants),  the  capital  of 


FBEDEBICE. 


RmtU  66.      407 


a  the  Ailan- 
in  ftt)m  BhK 
md  but  one 
this,  Mobile, 
-8  hrs. ;  to 
37-38  hrs. 
0  Wheeling, 
6;  Chicago, 

through  the 
»ught  duriug 
;re  is  scarce- 
ipatton  ;  and 
iting  armies. 
B  during  the 
Is  have  been 
facilities  for 
>ns. 

>n,  4 ;  Wash- 
klarriotsville, 
Junction,  68 
igton,  112  M. 
olt,  80;  Har- 
Martinsburg, 
John's  Bun, 
Sreen  Spring, 

New  Creek, 

1,  220  ;  Alta- 

;  Tunnelton, 

iirmoDt,  302 ; 

Bellton.  344 ; 

;  Zanesville, 

290 ;  Bridge- 
g  Bun,  321; 

nwallis.  352; 
ysville,  877 ; 

on  Viaduct, 
p-eat  peach- 
B  course  of 
i  the  oldest 
!^ational  ap- 
y,  and  con- 
a  Junotion 
vei^es  from 
away  to  the 
ttduct  Hotel 
(meals,  75c. 
ged  ravine 
orks,  and 
college  of 
capital  of 


Howard  County,  is  devoted  to  manufactures,  and  is  situated  amid  pic< 
turesque  glen  scenery.  The  water-power  is  furnished- by  the  Patapsco, 
and  is  sometimes  in  excess  of  the  demand  (as  in  July,  1868,  when  the 
greater  part  of  the  place  was  destroyed  and  60  lives  were  lost  by  a  sudden 
flood).  The  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  was  completed  from  Baltimore  to 
tliis  point  in  August,  1830.  Near  EUicott  City  are  the  Rock  Hill  College 
and  the  St.  Charles  College,  schools  of  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  with 
the  aggregate  number  of  33  instructors  and  347  students.  The  train 
crosses  the  old  Frederick  road  on  the  arches  of  the  Oliver  Viaduct,  and 
runs  between  the  cliffs  and  the  detached  granite  mass  called  the  Tarpeian 
Rock.  Running  to  the  N.  on  the  r.  bank,  the  river  is  crossed  and  re- 
crossed  by  massive  viaducts,  and  beyond  the  factories  of  Elysville  and  the 
lime-pits  of  Marriottsville,  the  line  ascends  Parr's  Ridge,  from  whose 
summit  (Mt.  Airy)  the  Frederick  Valley  is  overlooked,  boimded  by  the 
blue  Catoctin  Mts.  Near  Mt.  Airy  station  the  train  crosses  the  old 
National  Jioad,  a  highway  which  was  founded  by  Thomas  Jefferson,  and 
extended  from  Baltimore  to  Frederick,  Cumberland,  Wheeling,  Zanesville, 
and  Columbus,  The  train  now  descends  along  Bush  Creek,  and  crosses 
the  Monocacy  River  on  a  long  iron  bridge.  Near  this  point  a  National 
army  under  Gen.  Lew.  Wallace  was  defeated  by  superior  Confederate  forces, 
and  driven.back  on  Baltimore,  after  making  a  bold  stand  at  the  crossing 
of  the  Monocacy. 

:  A  branch  line  runs  N.  W.  from  Monocacy  to  Frederick  in  3  M.,  connect- 
ing there  with  a  line  running  N.  E.  into  Pennsylvania  (to  Hanover,  Get- 
tysburg, and  York),  Frederick  {City  Hotel;  U.  S.  Hotel)  is  a  pleasant 
Maryland  city  with  8,256  inhabitants,  11  churches,  3  banks,  and  2  news- 
papers. It  is  the  capital  of  Frederick  County,  and  is  2  M.  from  the 
Monocacy  River.  The  houses  are  well  built,  and  the  streets  are  broad 
and  cross  each  other  at  right  angles.  The  city  was  several  times  occupied 
by  the  Southern  armies,  and  an  incident  of  one  of  these  invasions  inspired 
Whittier's  fine  lyric  of  "  Barbara  Frietchie." 

Beyond  the  Monocacy  River  the  train  crosses  the  broad  and  fertile  lime- 
stone plains  of  the  Monocacy  Valley  for  11  M.,  with  the  Catoctin  Mts. 
rising  on  the  r.  It  reaches  the  Potomac  River  at  the  Point  of  Rocks, 
where  the  river  cuts  through  the  mts.,  leaving  a  high  cliff  on  either  side. 
At  this  point  the  Confederate  army  crossed  between  Sept.  4  and  7, 
1863,  and  began  the  first  invasion  of  Maryland.  The  Metropolitan  Branch 
R.  R.  runs  43  M.  S.  E.  from  Point  of  Rocks  to  Washington,  crossing  the 
unfruitful  Montgomery  County.  The  Wheeling  train  now  traverses  a 
tunnel  ^  M.  long,  and  passes  Berlin  and  Hagerstown  Junction,  whence 
the  Washington  County  Division  R.  R.  runs  24  M.  N.  to  Hagerstown 
(see  page  377).  From  Keedysville,  on  this  branch,  the  traveller  can  visit 
the  National  cemetery  and  the  battle-field  of  Antietam. 


408     Route  65. 


HARPER'S  FERRY. 


I!'h 


The  line  now  traverses  the  great  pass  through  which  the  Potomac 
River  flows  rapidly  over  a  rocky  bed,  diversified  by  many  is'  ^ts.  On  the 
I.  is  the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  Canal,  on  which  the  bituminoub  coal  of  Cum- 
berland is  carried  to  tide- water  at  Georgetown.  The  track  runs  under 
the  cliffs  of  JSlk  Mt.^  which  was  scaled  by  Jackson's  Confederates  in  Sept., 
1863,  and  then  passes  <!loae  under  Maryland  Heights.  On  the  1.  and  in 
advance  are  seen  the  Loudon  Heights  and  the  mouth  of  the  broud,  shal- 
low, and  arrowy  Shenandoah  River.  Crossing  the  Potomac  on  a  high 
bridge  900  ft.  long,  the  train  stops  at  Harper' i  Ferry.  This  village  is 
built  around  the  base  of  the  Bolivar  Heights,  on  the  cngle  at  the  conflu- 
ence of  the  Potomac  and  Shenandoah  Rivers,  and  has  1,212  inhabitants 
and  4  churches.  The  scenery  in  this  vicinity  is  in  the  highest  degree  pic- 
turesque. Bolivar  Heights  (over  the  village),  Loudon  Heights  (across  the 
Shenandoah),  and  Maryland  Heights  (on  the  Maryland  shore),  were  occu- 
pied by  forts  and  field-works  during  the  Secession  War.  These  battle- 
mounds  still  remain,  and  mark  the  scene  of  severe  fighting  The  great 
National  armory  which  was  formerly  in  operation  here  has  been  replaced  by 
a  new  one  at  Rock  Island,  III. ;  and  the  decadent  village  now  eivjoys  but 
slight  local  distinction. 

"  The  passage  of  the  Potomac  through  the  Blue  Ridge  is,  perhaps,  one 
of  the  most  stupendous  scenes  in  nature.  You  stand  on  a  very  high 
point  of  land.  On  your  r.  c^/mes  up  the  Shenandoah,  having  ranged 
'along  the  foot  of  a  mt.  100  M.  to  seek  a  vent;  on  your  1.  approaches  the 
Potoiiiac,  in  quest  of  a  passage  also.  In  the  moment  of  their  junction 
they  rush  together  against  the  mt.,  rend  it  asunder,  and  pass  off  to  the 
sea.  ....  But  the  distant  finishing  which  nature  has  given  to  the 
picture  is  of  a  very  different  character.  It  is  a  true  contrast  to  the  fore- 
ground. It  is  as  placid  and  delightful  as  that  is  wild  and  tremendous ; 
for  the  mt.  being  cloven  asunder,  she  presents  to  your  eye  through  the 
clefts  a  small  catch  of  smooth  blue  horizon,  at  an  ii.  nite  distance  in  the 
p'iain-country,  inviting  you,  as  it  were,  from  the  riot  and  tumult  warring 
around  to  pass  through  the  breach  and  participate  in  the  calm  below. 
....  This  scene  is  worth  a  journey  across  the  Atlantic  ;  yet  here,  as  in 
the  neighborhood  of  the  Natural  Bridge,  are  people  who  have  passed 
their  lives  within  a  dozen  miles,  and  have  never  been  to  survey  these 
monuments  of  a  war  between  rivers  and  mts.,  which  must  have  shaken 
the  earth  itself  to  its  centre."    (Thomas  Jefferson.) 

The  U.  S.  Arsenal  at  Harj^er's  Ferry  was  captured  by  John  Brown  and  20 
abolitionists  Oct.  16,  1809,  and  the  engine-house  was  made  their  citadel.  After  a 
short  siege,  the  insurgents  were  overpowered  by  the  Va.  ii^ilitia  and  U.  S.  marines 
(see  page  145).  The  ar.senal  was  fitted  for  making  10,000  muskets  a  year,  and  on 
April  18,  1801,  It  was  guarded  by  Lieut.  Jones  and  40  U.  S.  soldiers  (with  15,000 
muskets  in  the  armory).  When  the  Southern  States  began  to  rise  against  the 
Union,  the  Va.  militia  advanced  to  seize  this  annory :  but  the  vigilant  pickets  of 
the  garrison  rer^orted  their  approach,  and  the  great  Tiationai  buildings  were  speedily 


THE  BATTLE  OF  AMTIETAM.    Route  66.      409 


Potomac 
On  the 
1  of  Cura- 
inR  under 
1  in  Sept., 
1.  and  in 
•cad,  shal- 
on  a  high 
village  is 
;he  conflii- 
ihabitantf) 
legree  pic- 
[ across  the 
were  occu- 
ese  battle- 
The  great 
replaced  by 
enjoys  but 

erhaps,  one 
,  very  high 
ing  ranged 
roaches  the 
lir  junction 
off  to  the 
iren  to  the 
the  fore- 
■emendous ; 
hrough  the 
mce  in  the 
ult  warring 
Jm  below, 
here,  as  in 
ave  passed 
irvey  these 
ave  shaken 


mn  and  20 
el.  After  a 
.  S.  marines 
ear,  and  on 
with  16,000 
'  against  the 
t  pickets  of 
jere  speedily 


dntroyed  by  fire  and  gunpowder.  Jones  then  evacuated  the  poet,  and  within  a 
mouth  it  wiis  occupied  by  over  8,000  insurgents.  Tliencefortu  throughout  the 
Civil  War  Uariter's  Ferry  was  the  scene  of  battles  and  cannonades,  and  was 
alternately  occupied  by  the  mitional  and  insurgent  armies. 

In  Sept.,  lSo3,  wliile  McClellan  and  Lee  were  flf^hting  among  the  monntain> 
passes  to  the  N.,  Harper's  Ferry  was  held  by  12,000  national  troops,  under  CoL 
Miles.  That  ofticer  abandoned  tlie  strong  positions  about  the  town,  after  slight 
attacks  from  Jackson's  division,  and  allowed  2,00u  of  hii  cavalry  to  flee  to  the 
N.  The  Confederates  acted  with  great  energy,  and  soon  opened  a  plunging  Are 
fh)m  tlie  lofty  Maryland  Heights  upon  the  U.  S.  troops  massed  in  tlie  town. 
Although  a  line  of  retreat  was  open,  and  McClellan's  relieving  anuy  was  close  i^ 
hand,  Col.  Miles  speedily  surrendered  the  post,  with  11,553  soldiers  and  73  pieces 
of  artillery.  Miles's  treason  mot  with  speedy  punishment,  for  he  was  killed  by  a 
canuoQ-ball  after  the  wtiite  flag  had  been  disphiycd. 

The  Battle,  of  South  Mountain  was  iought  about  6  M.  ftom  Harper's  Ferry,  at 
the  pass  in  the  South  Mt  called  'rumer's  Gap.  The  position  was  held  by  Qen. 
Hill  with  5,000  Confederates,  and  was  attacked  (Sept.  14,  1802)  by  the  centre  and 
right  wing  of  the  Army  of  the  Potomac.  Lougstreet  was  hui-ried  to  the  relief, 
and  at  2  p.  m.  there  were  30,000  rebel  troops  on  the  crests  and  in  the  pass.  At  4 
o'clock  tlie  fighting  was  terrible,  and  the  national  forces  stormed  the  hostile 
positions  on  the  cliffs  and  rugged  ridges  with  rare  heroism.  At  sunset  the  Union 
commander,  Oen.  Reno,  was  killed  at  tlie  head  of  his  columns,  and  at  10  p.  u. 
the  contest  ceased.  During  the  night  the  enemy  retired,  having  inflicted  a  loss 
on  the  National  forces  of  312  killed  and  1,234  wounded.  The  action  took  place 
where  the  old  National  Road  crosses  the  South  Mt,  in  a  pass  400  ft.  deep.  The 
Confederate  loss  was  not  reported,  but  they  left  1,500  prisoners. 

The  Battle  of  Antletam  occurred  Sept.  10  - 17,  1863,  near  the  village  of 
Bharpsburg.  After  the  Battle  of  South  Mt.  and  the  surrender  of  Harper's  Ferry, 
the  Confederate  army  was  concentrated  near  Bharpsburg,  to  meet  the  slow  but 
ponderous  advance  of  tlie  Army  of  the  Potomac.  Ihe  f^ont  was  covered  by  An- 
tletam Creek,  which  was  commanded  by  formidable  heights.  In  the  first  day's 
battle  Hooker's  corps  carried  the  Williamsport  bridge,  and  drove  back  Hooa's 
Texans  after  a  severe  conflict.  At  dawn  on  the  17th,  while  the  National  batteries 
on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Antietam  enfiladed  the  hostile  lines.  Hooker  led  18,000 
tvoops  to  assault  the  Confederate  positions.  All  day  long  the  National  right  and 
centre  pressed  against  the  Confederate  positions,  and  the  ebb  and  flow  of  sangui- 
nary contest  surged  about  the  old  Dunker  Church  N.  of  Sharpsburg.  Qens.  Mans- 
field and  Richardson  were  mortally  wounded ;  Oens.  Hartsuff,  Sedgwick,  Craw- 
ford, Dana,  and  Meagher  '>vere  wounded :  and  several  brigades  were  nearly  exter- 
minated (Duryea's  brigade  emerged  from  the  flgljt  with  but  20  men,  bearing  4 
stands  of  colors).  At  nightfall  the  Nationals  held  the  field  and  the  positions  of 
the  Confederate  left  wing  and  centre.  On  the  National  left  a  terrible  engagement 
was  fought  at  the  Burnside  Bridge.  The  troops  were  ordered  to  storm  thU  pot><- 
tion  and  carry  the  heights  beyond,  though  the  approaches  were  enfiladed  by 
Confederate  batteries  and  riflemen.  Again  and  again  Qen.  Burnside  was  repulsed, 
but  at  1  p.  M.  a  forlorn  hope  of  2  regiments  swept  across  the  bridge,  scattered  the 
hostile  brigades  on  the  farther  shore,  and  opened  the  way  for  the  left  wing  to  ad- 
vance to  the  Sharpsburg  heights.  Darkness  now  settled  on  the  scene,  and  tJie 
National  lines  held  the  field  after  a  battle  in  which  "  nearly  200,000  men  and  600 
pieces  of  artillery  were  for  14  hours  engaged."  Their  loss  had  been  2,010  killed, 
and  10,450  wounded ;  the  enormous  Confederate  losses  were  never  reported.  The 
exhausted  armies  held  their  respective  positions  during  the  next  day  without 
fighting ;  and  during  the  night  of  the  18th  the  Confederates  recrossed  the  Poto- 
mac and  retreated  hastily  down  the  Valley  of  Virginia,  having  lost,  during  the 
fortnight's  invasion  of  Maryland,  30,000  men,  13  cannon,  and  39  battle-flags. 

The  Antietam  battle-field  is  now  honored  by  a  National  Cemetery,  in  which  are 
buried  the  thousands  of  brave  soldiers  who  fell  hero.  A  stately  and  impressive 
monument  has  been  erected  in  tlje  cemetery  to  commemorate  tlie  victory.  The 
field  is  reached  eitlier  by  a  long  carriage-ride  fh)m  Frederick  (traversing  an 
attractive  country);  from  Keedysville  station,  on  the  Hagerstown  Branch:  or 
from  Keameysville.  on  the  main  line  of  the  Bait.  &  Ohio  R.  R.  (crossing  the 
Potomac  and  passing  through  Sharpsburg).  The  new  monument  has  been  snrr 
mounted  by  the  largest  statue  in  the  country  (21|  ft  high),  representing  aa 
Ameri(ian  soldier. 

1ft 


410     RmiUeS,    THE  SHENANDOAH  VALLEY. 


The  Shenandoali  Tftlley  runs  S.  W.  from  Harper's  Feny,  and  is  fa* 
rnons  for  its  rare  fertility  and  picturesque  beauty.  In  later  years  it  has 
acquired  a  mournful  interest  as  a  battle-grotmd  and  land  of  camps  during 
four  years  of  civil  war.  The  Winchester,  Potomac  &  Strasburg  K.  R. 
runs  from  Harper's  Ferry  up  the  Valley  of  Virginia  to  Harrisonburg  (100 
M. ),  passing  Charkitown,  which  is  8  M.  from  Harper's  Ferry,  and  is  2^ 
M.  N.  W.  of  Washington's  Masonic  Cave;  2  M.  N.  E.  of  the  ancient  ruins 
of  Trinity  (Norbome)  Church;  and  5  M.  from  the  Shannondale  Springs. 
Winohetter  is  the  next  important  station  (32  M.  from  Harper's  Ferry), 
and  is  the  metropolis  of  the  Valley.  It  was  Washington's  head-quarters 
in  1756,  and  is  the  burial-place  of  Lord  Fairfax  and  of  Oen.  Morgan,  com- 
mander of  the  Virginia  riflemen  in  the  Revolution.  Se/eral  sanguinary 
battles  occurred  in  this  vicinity  during  the  Secession  War.  The  famous 
Rock-Enon  {Capper)  Springs  are  13  M.  from  Winchester,  on  the  Gre(;b 
North  Mt.  (Wormley's  Hotel).  From  Straaburg  a  milroad  runs  E.  to 
Washington  in  89  M.,  passing  the  beautiful  mt.  hamlet  of  Front  Boyal» 
near  Manassas  Gap,  and  the  scene  of  desperate  fighting  during  the  Seces- 
sion War.  Harrisonburg  is  in  the  lower  part  of  the  Valley  of  Virginia, 
and  is  the  capital  of  the  rich  agricultural  county  of  Rockingham. 


The  Bait.  &  Ohio  train  run?  N.  W.  from  Harper's  Ferry,  leaving  the 
Potomac  beyond  the  rock-tunnel,  and  ascending  the  valley  of  Elk  Branch. 
Beyond  KeameyaviUe  it  crosses  the  Opequan  Creek,  and  enters  the  valley 
of  the  Tuscarora,  which  is  followed  to  Martinsburg  {McSherry  House), 
This  is  the  capital  of  Berkeley  County,  and  is  a  pleasant  town  of  4,863 
inhabitants,  with  8  churches,  and  large  machine-shops  of  the  railroad.  It 
is  on  a  high  and  fertile  plateau  W.  of  the  Blue  Ridge,  and  has  favorable 
opportunities  for  manufacturing,  by  reason  of  the  water-power  of  the 
Tuscarora  Creek.  It  was  occupied  by  the  Confederate  troops  early  in 
1861,  and  was  the  scene  of  severe  fighting.  Milroy's  U.  S.  army  was  dis- 
astrously defeated  in  this  vicinity;  and  other  national  forces  were  repulsed 
and  expelled  from  the  place  by  Confederate  armies  from  the  Valley  oi 
Viiginia.  In  June,  1861,  the  Southern  troops  destroyed,  near  this  town, 
87  locomotives  and  400  cars  belonging  to  the  Bait.  &  Ohio  K  R. 

The  Cumhtrland  Valley  R.  R.  runs  N.  E.  from  Martinsburg  to  Harrisbuigh, 
Fenn.,  in  94  M.  (see  Route  58,  page  873>. 

Beyond  Martinsburg  the  train  runs  N.  over  the  North  Mt.,  leaving 
the  Valley  of  Virginia  and  traversing  a  dreary  upland,  beyond  which  it 
descends  to  the  Potomac  River,  with  fine  views  in  front.  On  the  opposite 
shore  of  the  river  are  the  ruins  of  Fort  Frederick,  a  quadrangular  stone 
work  which  was  built  by  Virginia  in  1755  -  56  (at  an  expense  of  $  30,000), 
as  one  of  the  6  frontier  forts.  The  British  troops  captured  at  Yorktown 
in  1780  were  located  here,  in  camps  guarded  by  Continental  soldiers.    At 


BERKELEY  SPRINGS. 


R(mU6B.      411 


nd  is  fa' 
j«it  has 
M  during 
Tg  K.  R« 
jurg  (100 
and  is  2^ 
ent  ruins 

Springs, 
s  Ferry), 
-quarters 
^an,  com- 
inguinary 
le  famous 
the  Gre?;6 
van  E.  to 
itBoyal, 
the  Seces- 

Virginia, 


saving  the 
k  Branch, 
the  valley 
y  House). 
I  of  4,863 
Iroad.    It 
favorable 
rer  of  the 
3  early  in 
^  was  dis- 
B  repulsed 
Valley  oi 
;his  town, 

irrisbuigh, 

.,  leaving 
which  it 
opposite 

^ar  stone 
130,000), 
Torktown 
iezs.    At 


the  station  of  Sir  John*s  Run,  stages  are  in  waiting  to  carry  passengers 
to  the  Berkeley  Springs  {* Berkeley  Springs  Hmtae),  a  famous  old  sum- 
mer resort  of  the  Virginians.  The  springs  are  2^  M .  S.  of  the  railroad, 
and  are  4  in  numbe  *,  flowing  from  the  forest-covered  ftides  of  the  Warm 
Springs  Ridge.  Thoy  flow  1,200  gallons  a  minute,  and  are  chiefly  used  for 
bathing,  the  temper  Sture  being  74°.  The  Oentlemen's  Spring  is  provided 
with  a  pavilion  and  lounging-room;  and  the  Ladies'  Spring  is  similarly 
embellished.  Tliere  are  numerous  private  baths,  shower  and  spout  baths, 
and  large  swimming-baths  for  ladies  and  gentlemen.  The  waters  are  held 
to  be  beneficial  in  cases  of  neuralgia  and  general  debility;  and  the  high, 
cool  moxmtain-air  is  also  famed  for  its  salubrity.  There  are  hotel  accom- 
modations for  700  guests. 

The  Berkeley  Springs  was  the  first  summer  resort  which  was  opened  in  the 
South.  Tliey  were  on  the  immense  domain  of  Thomas,  Lord  Fairfax,  who  re- 
served to  himself  tlie  source  still  known  as  "Lord  Fairfax's  Spring,"  and  granted 
the  others  to  the  province  of  Virginia.  In  1755  the  ill-fated  army  of  Qen.  Brad- 
dock  (see  page  853)  passed  near  this  place,  and  Sir  John's  Run  still  commem- 
orates Sir  John  St.  Clair,  an  officer  of  the  vanguard.  The  province  laid  out  the 
town  of  Bath  in  1776,  and  Gen.  Washington,  Oen.  Gates,  Charles  Carroll  of  Car- 
roUton,  and  many  others  of  tho  colonial  gentry,  had  cottages  here,  where  they 
spent  portions  of  the  summer  in  forest-sports  and  bathing.  Horse-racing,  card- 
playing,  and  tho  old  stately  dances  were  in  vogue  ;  and  at  a  certain  hour,  which 
was  announced  by  the  blowing  of  a  horn,  the  gentlemen  retired  and  allowed  the 
ladies  the  privileges  of  the  foliage-shaded  bathing-pool.  Hither  came  the  Baron 
and  Baroness  de  Riedesel  in  1780,  —  he  to  recover  his  health,  which  was  shat- 
tered in  the  Saratoga  campaign.  In  1786  James  Bumsey  earned  enough  money  at 
the  baths  to  build  his  steamboat,  perhaps  the  first  in  the  world,  which  was 
launched  at  the  mouth  of  Sir  John  s  Run  (or  at  Shepherdstown,  a  lew  miles  he- 
low),  and  successfully  ascended  the  rapid  Potomac. 

Beyond  Sir  John's  Run  the  ]ine  enters  the  mts.  of  the  great  Alleghany^ 
range,  near  the  Cacapon  Mts.,  with  the  prominent  peak  of  Round  Top 
plainly  in  view.  In  4  M.  the  great  Cacapon  River  is  crossed,  and  after 
following  the  curves  of  the  picturesque  upper  Potomac  and  ascending 
massive  galleries  on  the  sides  of  the  ridges,  the  train  traverses  the  Doe 
Gully  Tunnel,  which  is  1,200  ft.  long  and  pierces  a  mt.  1,700  ft.  high. 
Fine  rugged  scenery  is  passed  on  either  side  as  the  line  is  followed  to  the 
Paw  Paw  Tunnel.  Oossing  the  Little  Cacapon  Creek  and  the  South 
Fork  of  the  Potomac,  the  broad  intervales  opposite  Old  Town  are  traversed, 
and  in  the  advance  are  seen  the  mts.  which  surround  Cumberland.  Be- 
yond the  Oreeti  Spring  Tunnel,  the  tall  cliffs  called  Kelley's  Rocks  are 
passed,  and  the  picturesque  rock-scenery  about  Patterson's  Creek.  The 
train  now  crosses  the  Potomac  on  a  bridge  700  ft.  long,  and  enters  Mary- 
land in  the  mt.-county  of  Alleghany.  When  Maryland  was  debating 
whether  to  secede  or  not  (in  1861),  this  patriotic  county  sent  its  delegates 

1  Thii  chain  of  mti.  'with  the  itmilirTy  n«med  river  tnd  adlocent  towni  and  eountiei)  !• 
called  "Allegany  '  in  ita  New  YoA  portion,  "  Alleftheny  "  in  Penniylvania,  and  "  Alie- 
ghan  V  "  in  Marrland  and  the  South.  A  uniform  method  of  ■pelUnff  thli  name  in  deairable  ; 
nut  the  Editor  it  as  adhered  to  the  varioui  local  forma  of  ■peliing,  oelieving  it  hit  duty  ta 
report  things  •■  they  are,  rather  than  as  they  ahould  be. 


412     RouU66, 


CUBIBERLAin). 


to  the  Convention  with  the  instruction!  that  if  they  voted  for  secession 
they  should  be  hung  on  their  return. 

Oumberland  (*  Queen  City  Hotel,  at  the  station),  the  second  city  of 
Maryland,  is  finely  situated  in  a  basin  of  the  mts.,  with  Will's  Mt.  on  the 
W.,  and  the  Nobleys  on  the  S.,  beyond  which  is  the  lof*^  ridge  of  Dan's 
Mt.  There  are  over  8,000  inhabitants,  with  8  churches  and  3  newspapers; 
and  the  public  buildings  of  Cumberland  County  are  located  here.  The 
great  rolling-mills  where  the  Bait,  k  Ohio  company  makes  its  steel 
rails  form  an  important  feature  of  the  city ;  and  the  country-trade  is  ex- 
tensive and  lucrative.  The  Chesapeake  k  Ohio  Canal  terminates  at  this 
point,  and  is  mainly  used  in  the  transportation  of  coal  from  the  great 
mines  in  the  vicinity.  During  the  year  1873,  779,412  tons  of  semi-bitu- 
minous coal  were  sent  to  Georgetown,  D.  C,  over  the  canal,  and  1,794,200 
tons  were  sent  East  by  the  railroad,  making  a  total  of  2,573,618  tons 
shipped  from  Cumberland  during  the  year.  The  scenery  in  this  vicinity 
attracts  summer  visitors,  who  generally  stop  at  the  great  Queen  City  Hotel 
(an  appanage  of  the  railroad  company).  1  M.  W.  is  the  deep  gorge  called 
"The  Narrows"  where  Will's  Creek  has  cloven  iti  way  through  the 
escarped  and  palisaded  sandstone  strata  of  Will's  Mt.  Through  this 
water-gap  runs  the  old  National  Road  and  the  track  of  the  Pittsburgh, 
Washington  k  Baltimore  B.  K.  (see  page  364). 

The  Cumberland  A  Pennsylvania  R.  R.  runs  from  Cumberland  through  the  great 
coal-region  to  tlie  W.  FrostburK  is  a  place  of  about  6,000  inhabitants,  1,400  ft. 
above  Cumberland,  aud  is  approached  by  trades  in  the  form  of  a  succession  of 
■""a.  This  lofty  and  prosperous  town  is  undermined  in  everj'  direction  by  ex- 
hausted coal-shafts,  and  the  railroad  passes  under  it  in  a  dark  tunnel.  Running 
thence  3.  W. ,  the  line  follows  the  narrow  carboniferous  valley  of  George's  Creek, 
by  several  villages  of  miners,  and  soon  reaches  Pledmontf  84  M.  from  Cumber* 
luid  (time  of  transit,  3  hrs.). 

The  main  line  runs  S.  W.  from  Cumberland  up  the  narrow  valley  of 
the  Potomac,  between  the  Nobley  Mts.  (on  the  1.)  and  Will's  and  Dan's 
M'  \  (on  the  r.).  The  ridges  on  either  side  furnish  varied  views,  and 
beyond  the  rich  glen  of  Black  Oak  Bottom  the  train  crosses  the  Potomac 
on  a  costly  bridge  of  stone  and  iron.  Piedmont  is  the  seat  of  large  rail- 
road repair-shops,  and  is  at  the  confluence  of  the  Potomac  (North  Branch) 
and  George's  Creek.  At  this  point  begins  the  ascent  of  the  Alleghany 
Mts.,  and  for  17  M.  the  train  climbs  an  average  gradient  of  117  ft.  to  the 
M.,  propelled  by  2  engines.  On  the  r.,  beyond  the  deep  ravine  of  Savage 
River,  are  the  Savage  Mts;  and  near  Crabtree  Creek  the  line  sweeps  in 
broad  curves  around  the  main  Alleghany  ridge.  The  scenery  on  this 
section  is  majestic  and  imposing,  and  the  lofty  p^ks  are  shown  in  new 
combinations  as  the  train  clambers  along  its  lofty  galleries  and  bends  on 
long  curving  grades.  Altaxnont  is  on  the  summit,  and  is  2,720  ft.  above 
the  sea.  The  line  now  enters  The  Olades,  a  series  of  rich  alluvial  meadows 
lying  along  the  Youghiogheny  River  and  on  the  great  Alleghany  plateau. 


CHEAT  RIVER  VALLEY.        JtouU65.      413 


8  M.  from  Altamont  is  the  station  at  the  •  Deer  Park  Hotel  ($8.60  a 
day;  $20  a  week;  $75  a  month),  a  firat-class  summer  resort  mider  the 
management  of  the  railroad  company.  It  is  2,800  ft.  above  the  sea,  and 
is  visited  for  the  sake  of  the  pure  cool  air,  and  for  the  romantic  and 
sublime  scenery  along  th<-  Hades  and  on  the  mts.  The  hotel  has  150 
rooms,  furnished  with  gas  and  water,  and  employs  an  orchestra  in  sum- 
mer.  The  thermometer  in  summer  iHnges  from  58°  to  76°  Fahrenheit,  and 
the  air  is  crisp  and  sparkling.  6  M.  beyond  Doer  Park  the  train  passes 
the  village  of  Oakland,  with  another  large  wayside  summer-house,  called 
the  *  Oladei  Hotel  (a  favorite  resort  for  Baltimoreans).  The  trouting  in 
the  highland  streams  affords  much  sport,  and  game  is  still  found  in  the 
forests.  A  highway  runs  N.  from  Oakland,  down  the  pleasant  valley  of 
the  Maryland  Glades,  and  by  the  Youghiogheny  River,  to  the  remote 
hamlet  of  Friendwille.  6  M.  beyond  Oakland  the  train  enters  W. 
Virf^nia,  and  traverses  a  region  which  is  filled  with  striking  scenery. 
Embankments,  tunnels,  and  deep  gorges  succeed  each  other,  and  at  11  M. 
beyond  Cranberry  Summit  the  line  reaches  Rowleaburg* 

The  famous  *  Cheat  Biver  Valley  is  now  crossed,  with  beautiful  views 
on  either  side.  Here  the  chocolate-colored  Cheat  River,  uniting  with  the 
Tray  Run^  descends  through  a  valley  between  bold  and  imposing  mts., 
and  is  lined  with  dark  forests.  The  raiUoad  crosses  on  a  high  grade, 
bridging  the  river  and  rusliing  along  the  slopes  on  narrow  yet  massively 
built  galleries.  The  attention  and  admiration  of  the  triaveller  is  divided 
between  the  charms  of  the  natural  scenery  and  the  daring  skill  of  the 
engineering  works  over  which  the  train  passes. 

"  This  scenery  has  a  character  of  grandeur  of  its  own,  and,  in  the  wonderfbl' 
varieties  of  forest  and  lawn,  of  river  and  mt.,  of  nature  in  her  savage  wildnesa 
and  nature  in  her  loveliest  forms,  presents  a  series  of  pictures  which  no  well- 
educatfcvl  American  should  leavr;  unvisited.  We  cross  the  Atlantic  in  quest  of 
attractive  scenes,  and,  lo  I  we  leave  at  home,  alongside  of  the  great  central  iron 
pathway,  views  that  excel  anything  that  can  be  seen  among  the  mts.  of  Scotland 
or  in  the  passes  of  the  Appenines."    (George  Bancroft.) 

Beyond  Cassidy's  Ridge  the  train  passes  through  the  great  Xingwood 
Tannel,  which  is  4,100  ft.  long  and  cost  $  1,000,000.  It  took  3,000  men 
2  years  and  8  months  to  make  this  tunnel.  A  long  descent  now  follows, 
the  Murray  Tunnel  (250  ft.;  through  sandstone)  is  passed,  and  beyond 
the  hamlet  of  Newburg  (on  the  intervales  of  Otter  Creek)  the  train 
follows  the  narrow  valley  to  Grafton  (large  hotel  at  the  station).  This 
village  has  about  2,000  inhabitants,  and  is  picturesquely  situated  on  the 
Tygarfs  Valley  River.  About  20  M.  up  Tyf,art's  Valley  (12  M.  from 
Webster)  is  Philippi,  which  was  occupied  by  the  Confederate  forces 
sent  for  the  subjugation  of  W.  Virginia  in  1861.  June  3,  1861,  these 
troops  (numbering  1,500  men)  were  attacked  by  the  Ist  Va.  (Union)  and 
2  Western  regiments,  and  were  totally  routed. 


I 


ii 


i 


'; 


I 


414    Bauues. 


PARKEBSBURG. 


!   ■     "i 


•    "ll 


!UI^ 


The  Parkenbitrg  Divinon  runs  W.  from  Qrafton  to  Parkenburg  in  104 
M.,  traversing  the  picturesque  mts.  of  W.  Virginia  and  passing  several 
small  forest-hamlets.  Among  these  rugged  higlilands  the  institution  of 
slavery  obtained  but  a  slender  foothold,  and  in  1860  the  4  counties  be- 
tween Grafton  and  Pari'ersburg  had  85,256  freemen,  and  only  830  slaves. 
When  the  Virginians  voted  (in  1861)  as  to*  whether  their  State  should 
stand  by  the  Union  or  secede,  the  mountain-counties  were  loyal  by  large 
majorities;  and  when  the  State  took  up  arms  against  the  Republic,  this 
patriotic  section  was  formed  into  the  new  State  of  West  Virginia  (with 
the  motto,  "  Montani  semper  liheri  "). 

The  first  station  of  any  note  is  Clarksburg,  the  capital  of  Harrison 
County,  a  village  of  nearly  2,000  inhabitants,  situated  on  a  hill-environed 
plain  near  the  W.  Fork  of  the  Monongahela  River.  Petroleum  station  is 
in  the  oil-district  of  W.  Vii^inia,  and  a  branch  track  leads  N.  from  Laurel 
Fork  Junction  to  Yoloano,  the  chief  place  in  that  district.  In  this  vi- 
cinity  is  obtained  a  heavy  dark-green  oil  which  is  extensively  used  in 
lubricating  fixed  machinery,  locomotives,  and  cars.  This  valuable  petro- 
leum  is  pumped  up  from  the  natural  rock-reservoirs  far  below  in  the 
earth,  and  is  kept  in  large  tanks  (seen  near  the  line).  The  deep  ravines 
and  rugged  hills  of  this  region  are  occupied  by  thousands  of  tall  derricks, 
most  of  which  have  long  been  deserted.  At  Claysville  the  train  reaches 
the  Little  Kanawha  River,  whose  course  is  followed  to  the  N.  W.  to 
Parkersbnrg  (Stoann  House),  the  capital  of  Wood  Ciounty,  a  city  of 
6,646  inhabitants,  engaged  in  the  petroleum  trade.  The  train  here  crosses 
the  Ohio  River  on  a  noble  bridge  which  was  erected  in  1869-71,  at  a  cost 
of  over  $1,000,000.  It  is  1^  M.  long,  with  6  spans  over  the  river  and  43 
approaching  spans.  The  line  connects  at  Belpre  with  the  Marietta  k 
Cincinnati  R.  R.  for  the  West. 


The  Wheeling  train  runs  N.  W.  from  Grafton  down  the  TygarVs  Vallep, 
with  a  variety  of  picturesque  scenery.  Fairmont  is  a  pretty  village,  with 
about  600  inhabitants  and  2  churches,  situated  near  the  confluence  of  the 
Monongahela  River  and  Tygart's  Valley  River.  A  fir^  suspension-bridge 
crosses  the  river  to  the  hamlet  of  Palatine.  Fairmont  is  the  capital  of 
the  forest-county  of  Marion,  and  is  at  the  head  of  steamboat  navigation 
on  the  Monongahela.  The  line  now  crosses  the  hill-country  of  Wetzel 
County,  and  beyond  Littleton  it  enters  the  Pan-Handle  of  W.  Virginia. 
MoundsviUe  is  finely  situated  on  the  fertile  intervales  of  the  Ohio  River 
at  the  mouth  of  Grave  Creek,  and  is  near  the  village  of  Elizahethtovm, 
the  capital  of  Marshall  County.  Between  the  villages  is  the  Mammoth 
Mound,  a  relic  of  the  prehistoric  inhabitants  of  America.  It  is  80  ft. 
high  and  200  ft.  broad,  and  towers  over  the  fertile  intervales.  The  train 
now  runs  over  level  lo\  'onds  for  several  miles,  and  after  an  interlude  of 


WHEELING. 


Roitu  ee,    415 


rocky  narrows,  advances  by  the  Ohio  River  to  Bentoood  (where  conneco 
tions  are  made  with  the  Central  Ohio  Division  of  the  B.  &  0.  R.  R.)  and 
Wheeling. 

Wheeling  {McClure  House)  is  the  capital  of  W.  Virginia,  and  is  8itii« 
ated  on  the  Ohio  River  at  the  influx  of  Wheeling  Creek.  It  has  19,280  in« 
habitants,  with  21  churches,  4  banks,  and  5  newspapers,  and  is  the  seat 
of  the  University  qf  W..  Virginia^  a  State  institution  with  10  professors 
and  154  students.  The  manufactuiing  interests  are  profitable  and  ezten> 
sive,  and  are  served  by  an  easily  available  water-power  and  immense  sup' 
plies  of  coal  in  the  adjacent  hills.  The  National  Road  crosses  the  Ohio 
here  (over  Zane's  Island)  by  a  graceful  wire  suspension-bridge,  whose  span 
is  1,010  ft.  long,  with  towers  153  ft.  above  the  river ;  and  the  railroad 
bridge  (below  the  city)  is  one  of  the  finest  in  the  country.  With  the  ap> 
proaches,  it  is  If  M.  long,  including  a  viaduct  of  43  spans  in  the  city  of 
Bellaire.  Wheeling  is  finely  situated  on  a  narrow  alluvial  plain  which  is 
overlooked  by  rugged  hills,  and  has  a  large  commerce  on  the  Ohio  River. 

The  40  mountain  counties  of  Virginia  bad  long  been  at  odds  with  the  rest  of  the 
State  by  reason  of  unequal  taxation  and  other  un,iust  discriminations.  When 
Virginia  seceded  flrora  the  Union  (in  1S61)  these  counties  established  themselves 
into  the  State  of  W.  Virginia,  and  testifl«u  the  patriotism  of  the  new  member  of 
the  Republic  by  giving  to  its  armies  26,540  men  out  of  33,774  enrolled  male  citizens. 

The  Hempfleld  B.  R.  runs  N.  E.  to  Washington,  Pa.,  in  32  M.  (see  page  868) ; 
the  P'ver  Division  of  the  Cleveland  &  Pittsburgh  R.  R.  runs  (Pmm  Bridgeport)  to 
Pittsfc  irgh  in  S3  M.,  and  to  Cleveland  in  138  M.;  and  the  Central  Ohio  k,  Lake 
Erie  Divisions  of  the  Bait.  &  Ohio  R.  R.  run  (from  Bellaire)  to  Columbos  in  187 
M.,  and  to  Sandusky  in  220  M. 


66.  Baltimore  to  Washing^ton. 

By  the  Baltimore  &  Ohio  R.  R.  (Washington  Branch)  in  1  -  2  hrs. 

Stations*  —  Baltimore  (Camden  station) ;  Carroll  Switch,  2  M. ;  Camden 
Junction,  4;  Washington  Junction.  9;  Elk  Ridge,  10;  Hanover,  12^;  Dor>ey's, 
15 ;  Jessup's,  17 ;  Annapolis  Junction,  19.^ ;  Savaire,  21 ;  Laurel,  23 ;  White  Oak, 
25 ;  Beltsville,  28 ;  Paint  Branch,  81j^ ;  Bladensburg,  84 ;  Metropolitan  Junction, 
89 ;  Washington,  40. 

The  train  moves  out  from  the  Camden  station,  and  runs  S.  W.  through  the  en- 
virons of  Baltimore.    Baltimore  to  Washington  Junction,  see  page  406. 

The  deep  valley  of  the  Patapsco  River  is  now  crossed  on  the  famons 
*  Washington  Viadnot,  a  splendid  piece  of  masonry  whose  arches  rest 
on  7  high  piers.  The  views  on  either  side  are  broad  and  pleasant,  espe- 
cially on  the  1.,  where  the  valley  widens.  The  scenery  in  this  vicinity, 
and  the  exigencies  of  railroad  travel,  have  given  reason  for  tho  erection  of 
the  fine  hotel  on  the  E.  side  of  the  river.  The  train  now  traverses  the 
hilly  region  on  the  borders  of  Howard  County,  with  the  peculiar  clayey 
soil  of  the  country  exhibited  in  the  deep  cuts  and  gullied  knolls.  Elk 
Ridge  Landing  \%  an  iron  manufacturing  villf^e  on  the  Patapsco;  and 
Hanover  (locally  farao\is  for  its  camp-meetings)  is  near  the  iron-mines 
which  supply  the  Avalon  Furnaces. 


416    Rouu  ee. 


ANNAPOLia 


At  Annapolu  Junction  (2  hotels)  the  Annapolis  k  Elk  Ridge  R  R 
diverges  to  the  S.  K  and  runs  for  21  M.  across  Anne  Anmdel  County, 
intersecting  the  Bait,  k  Potomac  R.  R.  at  Odenton.  Trains  run  from 
Baltimore  to  Annapolis  in  1^-2  hrs. 

.  Jkmiapolii  (Maryland  ffoiue),  the  capital  of  the  State  of  Maryland,  is 
a  quaint  old  city  of  5,744  inhabitants,  pleasantly  situated  on  the  S.  bank 
of  the  Severn  River,  2  M.  from  Chesapeake  Bay.  It  derives  considerable 
local  importance  from  its  relations  to  the  State,  while  it  has  a  national 
interest  from  the  fact  that  it  is  the  site  of  the  training-school  for  the 
officers  of  the  republican  fleets.  The  State  Home  is  situated  on  an  ele- 
vation in  the  centre  of  the  city,  enclosed  by  a  circular  granite  wall,  and  is 
entered  from  Frances  St.  It  is  built  mainly  of  brick,  and  is  surmounted 
by  a  dome  nearly  200  ft.  high.  The  hall  beyond  the  main  entrance  is 
imder  the  dome,  whose  interior  work  is  seen  thence.  On  the  r.  is  the 
Senate  Chamber,  memorable  in  American  history  as  the  place  where  Con- 
gress  ratified  the  Treaty  of  1783  (acknowledging  the  national  independence), 
and  also  where  Washington  resignbii  his  command  of  the  army.  Here 
are  full-length  portraits  of  Charles  Carroll  (by  Sully),  Chase,  Paca,  and 
Stone,  the  Maryland  signers  of  the  Declaration  of  Independence ;  and  of 
Howard,  ''the  hero  of  the  Cowpens"  (by  Sully) ;  also  a  fine  painting  of 
Washington  resigning  his  commission  to  Congress.  In  the  adjacent  Com- 
mittee Room  is  a  singular  painting  by  C.  W.  Peale,  representing  Lord 
Chatham  in  the  costume  of  a  Roman  senator.  The  Chamber  of  the  House 
of  Delegates  is  opposite  the  Senate  Chamber,  and  has  galleries  for  visitors. 
The  State  Library  is  at  the  end  of  the  hall  under  the  dome,  and  has  over 
20,000  volumes.  On  the  second  floor  is  the  Executive  Department  and 
the  Court  of  Appeals  (wherein  hangs  a  large  picture  of  Washington  and 
Lafayette  reviewing  the  army,  by  Peale).  Another  stairway  leads  to  the 
platform  of  the  dome  (130  ft.  high),  whence  a  broad  view  is  gained,  in- 
cluding the  city,  the  pleasant  hills  of  Anne  Arundel,  the  Severn,  and  the 
broad  Chesapeake,  and  the  remote  line  of  the  Eastern  Shore.  The  State 
House  was  built  in  1772,  and  the  dome  (of  wood)  was  added  after  the 
Revolution.  The  Treasury  is  a  venerable  building  in  the  circle  near  the 
State  House,  and  is  famous  for  having  been  the  legislative  hall  of  the  old 
Provincial  Assembly.  The  Record  Office  is  N.  E.  of  the  Treasury,  ind 
contains  the  archives  of  Maryland.  On  the  N.  E.  of  the  hill  is  an  ancient 
cannon  which  was  brought  to  the  province  by  Lord  Baltimore  about  1633. 
St.  John'i  College  occupies  a  range  of  buildings  between  Prince  George 
St.  and  the  Severn  River,  and  has  12  instructors  and  181  students. 

In  1744  Oct.  Bladen  began  the  erection  of  a  costly  gubernatorial  mansion  on 
the  site  of  St.  John's  College.  European  architects  provided  with  almost  un- 
limited resources  had  nearly  completed  the  house ;  when  Bladen  quarrelled  with 
the  Assembly,  which  thereupon  cut  off  its  appropriations.  In  1784  the  Assembly 
founded  St.  John's  College,  and  located  it  in  tlte  ruined  building  (which  was 


ANNAPOLia 


Xauuee.    417 


known  am  "  th«  Oorcrnor*!  Folly  "O.  It  lUao  received  the  endowments  of  "  King 
WiUlam'ii  School."  which  was  founded  at  Annapolis  in  1000.  But  the  uolieg j  wii« 
dot)endent,  and  lanKniahed  whenever  the  8tAte  atibxldioii  were  witlihelU.  The 
College  Green  waa  the  camp-ground  of  the  French  forcea  in  the  Revolution,  the 
3IaryTand  militia  in  the  War  of  1812,  and  the  national  troops  in  the  Civil  War.  £. 
of  the  college  in  an  ancient  poplar-tree,  which  probably  antedates  the  city,  and  la 
much  venerated  by  ilie  Annapolitans. 

8t.  Anne'i  Oharoh  (Episcopal)  is  on  the  Church  Circle  (6-700  ft.  W. 
of  the  State  House),  and  is  a  stately  edifice,  with  colonnades  of  stone  sep< 
arating  the  nave  and  aisles,  and  an  altar  of  carved  stone.  The  bell  (now 
destroyed)  of  this  church  was  given  by  Queen  Anne,  and  the  7  vessels  of 
the  communion  service  (still  in  use)  were  presented  by,  and  bear  the 
monogram  and  arms  of,  King  William  III.  The  church  is  the  third  Stt 
Anne's  which  has  occnpied  this  site,  the  first  having  been  built  in  1696. 
St.  Mary's  Church  (Catholic)  is  on  the  Duke  of  Gloucester  St.,  on  land 
given  by  Charles  Carroll  of  Carrollton,  and  adjoins  St.  Mary's  College 
and  Convent.  Candidates  for  the  missionary  clergy  of  the  Redemptionist 
Order  study  6  years  at  St.  James  College  (Baltimore),  2-4  years  at  St. 
Mary's  (Annapolis),  and  5  years  at  St.  Clement's  College  (Ilchester,  Md.), 
returning  to  Annapolis  for  a  final  practical  course.  The  Government 
House  is  a  costly  new  mansion  W.  of  the  State  House,  used  for  the  resi- 
dence  of  the  Governor.  There  are  many  quaint  old  houses  in  the  city 
which  date  from  1740  -  60  and  were  built  of  imported  brick. 

The  *  V.  8.  Naval  Academy  is  the  national  school  for  the  education 
of  midshipmen  and  their  preparation  for  the  higher  commands  in  the 
navy.  The  course  of  study  covers  4  years,  and  is  varied  by  cruising  ia 
the  school-ships.  This  school  was  founded  in  1845,  and  was  transferred 
to  Newport,  R.  I.,  during  the  Civil  War  (May,  1861 -Sept.,  1865).  The 
buildings  were  occupied  by  the  army  during  that  period,  and  at  the  close 
of  the  rebellion  the  naval  cadets  fetumed.  The  grounds  cover  114  acres, 
and  are  fronted  by  a  sea-wall  along  the  Severn  River.  The  new  Midship- 
men's Quarters  accommodate  200  cadets,  and  are  croMmed  by  a  dome  which 
commands  a  broad  marine  view.  The  Officers'  Quarters,  Gunnery  Build- 
ing, ObseiVatory,  Hospital,  and  Mess  Hall  are  commodious  structures. 
The  Department  of  Steam  Enginery  is  at  the  foot  of  the  main  avenue,  and 
contains  bright  models  and  large  engines  of  steam-frigates.  In  front  is  a 
fountain  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  Neptune,  and  a  portal  formed  of  can- 
non captured  on  the  Confiance  (War  of  1812).  The  Chapel  contains  sev- 
eral memorial  tablets,  and  on  the  grounds  are  3  monuments,  —  to  midship- 
men  killed  at  Vera  Cruz  in  1847,  —  to  Lieut.  Hemdon,  lost  on  the  Central 
America,  — and  to  the  soldiers  of  the  fleet  who  fell  in  the  Tripolitan  War 
(in  1804).  The  latter  monument  was  erected  at  Washington  in  1808,  was 
mutilated  by- the  British  in  1814,  and  was  removed  to  Annapolis  in  1860. 
The  old  Government  House  of  Maryland,  erected  before  the  Revolution, 
was  bought  by  the  U.  S.  in  1869,  and  is  now  used  for  the  library  (15,000 

18*  AA  .      - 


418     RwU  66. 


ANN*JPOLIS. 


Tolumes)  and  reading-room.  In  this  building  are  laige  and  yaloable  col< 
lections  of  birds,  shells,  minerals,  coins,  etc.,  with  trophies,  flags,  and 
other  cariosities.  There  are  many  busts  of  eminent  men,  and  casts  of 
celebrated  antique  statuary;  also  several  rude  but  spirited  paintings  of 
battles  at  sea,  and  portraits  of  the  great  naval  chiefs,  Stewart,  Farragut, 
Paul  Jones,  M.  C.  Perry  (Japan  expedition),  0.  H.  Perry  (Battle  of  Lake 
Erie),  Decatur,  Hopkins,  Rodgers,  Preble,  McDonough,  Biddle,  and  David 
Porter.  The  Academy  has  a  fine  band  and  a  marine  guard,  ball  and  boat 
clubs,  and  a  gymnasium  on  the  walls  of  old  Fort  Severn.  A  dress-parade 
of  the  battalion  occurs  every  evening  (unless  stormy),  and  many  visitors 
attend  the  imposing  ceremonial.  The  dress-balls  given  here  during  the 
winter  (especially  on  Feb.  22)  attract  hundreds  of  the  patrician  damsels 
of  Baltimore  and  Washington.  The  Academy  is  situated  in  finely  adorned 
grounds,  adorned  with  trees  and  shrubbery  and  ancient  trophy-cannon. 
The  remains  of  old  Fort  Severn  are  near  the  river,  and  there  are  usually 
two  or  three  vessels  of  the  fleet  moored  ofi"  Severn  Park. 

On  St.  Cecilia's  Day,  1633;  the  Catholic  pilgrims  set  sail  from  England,  "having 
placed  our  ship  under  the  protection  of  Ood,  the  Blessed  Virgin  Mother,  St.  Igna- 
tius, and  all  tlie  guardian  angels  of  Maryland."  In  due  time  they  reached  land  at 
St*  Mary's,  near  the  Potomac  River,  and  founded  there  the  capital  of  the  pro- 
spective province.  In  1648  Episcopal  Virginia  began  to  persecute  her  Puritan 
citizens,  and  in  1649  the  aflSicted  church  moved  to  Providence  (the  present  site 
of  Annapolis).  The  Catholic  Governor  Stone  soon  advanced  by  sea  fh>m  St 
Mary's  against  the  new  colony,  but  was  defeated  and  captured  after  a  fierce  fight, 
in  which  50  of  his  men  were  killed.  The  Puritan  battle-cry  was,  "  In  the  name  of 
Ood,  fall  on.  God  is  our  strength  ";  and  the  Marylanders  shouted,  "  Hey  f|^r  St. 
Mary's."  In  1694  the  Puritan  village  became  the  provincial  capital ;  and  in  1695 
it  was  named  Annapolis,  in  honor  of  Queen  Anne.  In  1745  the  Maryland  Gazett9 
was  establislied  ;  in  1752  a  theatre  was  opened  (the  first  in  America) ;  in  1774  the 
citizens  burned  the  British  brig  Peggy,  with  her  cargo  of  tea ;  in  1776  the  royal 
govempr,  Eden,  was  forced  to  fly.  and  the  "glorious  old  Marj'land  Line"  began 
to  gather  here.    About  1795  the  city  began  to  decline  in  relative  importance. 

At  the  outbreak  or  the  Secession  War  the  oity  was  occupied  by  rebels,  who 
were  arranging  for  an  attack  on  the  Naval  Academy  and  the  frigate  Constitution. 
April  21  the  8th  Mass.  regiment  arrived  here  (by  water),  and  rescued  the  im- 
perilled national  property ;  occupied  the  city :  i^ored  the  petty  and  impertinent 
sectionalism  of  tlie  Mai-yland  governor ;  and  marched  to  Annapolis  Junction, 
rebuilding  the  demolished  railroad,  and  attended  by  the  7th  New  York  Regi- 
ment. Thereafter,  until  the  redemption  of  Baltiniore,  the  troops  advancing  to 
the  defence  of  the  national  capital  passed  through  Annapolis. 


fj:    i 


'  Beyond  Annapolis  Junction  the  train  crosses  in  succession  the  Little 
Patnxent  and  Big  Patuxent  Rivers,  and  approaches  Laurel  (Laurel  Hotel), 
a  thrifty  and  growing  village  of  about  1,200  inhabitants,  situated  ^  M.  N. 
of  the  line.  It  has  busy  iron-works  and  cotton-mills,  and  is  situated  in  a 
district  which  abounds  in  peaches.  The  railroad  was  cut  at  this  point  by 
a  daring  band  of  Southern  cavalry  during  the  summer  of  1864.  Muirkirk 
has  iron-works  which  draw  their  supplies  from  the  rich  ore-beds  in  the 
vicinity:  and  the  stately  granite  building  of  the  Agricultural  College  of 
Maryland  is  seen  from  Paint  Branch  (College)  station,  crowning  a  line  of 
heights  on  the  r. 


PORT  TOBACCO. 


Rwuer,    419 


**  A  series  of  grassy  hills,  With  sandy  creeks  at  their  passes ;  then 
Bladensburg,  an  angular  stretch  of  old,  gable-chimneyed,  bent-roofed 
houses,  i  M.  from  the  railroad ;  then  a  line  of  red-clay  breastworks, 
worming  up  to  the  hill-tops,  wliere  stand  dismantled  forts ;  then  an 
octagonal  builduig  with  a  cupola  on  it,  —  the  home  and  foundry  of 
Clark  Mills,  sculptor;  then  the  uneasy  outlying  landscapes  of  a  city, — 
culverts  planted  nowhere,  streets  graded  to  no  place,  brick-kilns  and  pits, 
a  cemetery,  frame  shanties  on  goose  pastures  disputed  by  cows  made 
sullen  by  over-milking;  boys,  babies,  friendless  dogs,  and  negro  women 
'toting'  great  bundles  on  their  heads;  no  more  fence,  the  smell  of 
apparent  garbage  and  ash-heaps;  signs  of  ground-rents  and  dirt-throwing 
invitations ;  and  all  this  time  you  are  descending  into  basin-land  and 
down  the  valley  of  a  bare  creek;  at  last  a  dome,  such  majesty  and  white- 
ness ii  you  never  saw  elsewhere,  appears  sailing  past  the  clouds,  —  the 
Capitol!"    (George  Alfred  TowNSEND.) 

Washington,  see  page  420. 

• 

67.  Baltimore  to  Waahington. 

By  the  Bait  &  Potomac  R  R.  in  1^-2  hrs. 

Stations.  —  Baltimore  ;  N.  Central  Junction,  2  M.;  Lafayette,  3:  Winans,  9; 
Stony  Bun,  11 ;  Severn,  15 ;  Odenton,  18 ;  Patuxent,  21 ;  Bowie,  26  (branch  to 
Marlboro',  40;  Pope's  Creelc,  75);  Seabrook,  30;  Wilson's,  34;  Benning's,  88 ; 
Navy  Yard,  41 ;  Washington,  43  (Richmond,  U6). 

The  train  leaves  the  Calvert  Station,  in  Baltimore,  and  passes  through 
the  great  tunnels  beneath  the  city,  traversing  the  rural  environs,  and 
passing  the  divergence  of  the  N.  Central  B.  R.  The  train  now  diverges 
to  the  S.,  and  crosses  the  broad  Patapsco  Biver.  At  Odenton  it  intersects 
the  Annapolis  &  Elk  Ridge  R.  R.,  on  which  trains  run  15  M.  S.  E.  to 
Annapolis,  the  capital  of  Maryland  (see  page  416).  The  line  next  trav- 
erses the  fertile  hills  of  Anne  Arundel  County,  whose  chief  products  are 
com  and  tobacco.  The  county  was  named  for  Lady  Anne  Arundel,  who 
married  Lord  Baltimore,  and  in  1860  had  16,568  free  citizens  and  7,332 
slaves.  Beyond  the  Patuxent  the  line  enters  Prince  George  County, 
which,  in  1850,  produced  more  tobacco  than  any  other  county  in  the 
Union  (8,380,851  pounds),  and  is  still  famous  for  that  staple.  From 
Bowie  the  Pope's  Creek  Branch  diverges  to  the  S.,  and  runs  for  49  M. 
through  the  rural  districts  of  Prince  George  and  Charles  Counties.  La 
Plata  station  is  near  Fort  Tobacco,  the  capital  of  Charles  County,  and 
a  garrisoned  post  during  the  Secession  War.  The  terminus  of  the  branch 
line  is  at  Pope's  Creek,  fronting  the  wide  waters  of  the  lower  Potomac. 

Beyond  Bowie  the  Washington  train  passes  on  to  the  shores  of  the 
Eastern  Branch  of  the  Potomac,  which  is  crossed  on  a  long  trestle-bridge. 
Pleasant  views  are  afforded  of  the  broad  river  and  its  hilly  banks.  The 
Washington  Tunnel  is  a  costly  and  massively  buUt  structure  of  masonry. 


I 


I 


ill, 


420     Routes  68,  69,         WASHINGTON. 

1,600  ft.  long;  and  as  the  train  emei^ges  from  its  depths,  the  white  dome 
of  the  Capitol  is  seen  on  the  r.  The  terminal  station  is  on  6th  St.,  near 
Pennsylvania  Ave. 

68.  New  York  to  Waihing^toiL 

The  new  route  by  the  Limited  Express  trains  affords  the  most  speedy 
and  luxurious  mode  of  passing  from  the  metropolis  to  the  national  capi- 
tal. The  train  is  composed  entirely  of  Pullman  cars,  and  uns  through 
without  change  in  6  hrs.  and  40  minutes.  The  fares  are,  New  York  to 
Philadelphia,  $4.25;  to  Baltimore,  $8.50 ;  to  Washington  $10  (Pullman- 
car  fares  included). 

The  train  leaves  New  York  at  9.30  a.  m.  (3|  hrs.  after  the  arrival  of  the 
night  express  from  Boston),  and  arrives  at  Washington  at  4.03  P.  M.  (city 
time).  The  route  between  New  York  and  Philadelphia  is  described  on 
pages  254-262;  between  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore,  on  pages  386-394; 
between  Baltimore  and  Washington,  on  pages  419,  420.  The  Limited 
Express  stops  en  route  at  Newark,  Elizabeth,  New  Brunswick,  Trenton, 
Germantown  Junctipn,  W.  Philadelphia,  Wilmington,  and  Baltimore. 

69.  Washington. 

Hotels.  —  *The  Arlington,  alatge  and  imposing  bailding  near  the  Treasuiy, 
accommodating  325  guests  and  chai^ng  $5  a  day;  *  Willard's,  comer  of  Penn. 
Ave.  and  14Ui  St.,  accommodating  400  guests  (#4.50  a  day);  the  *  Metropoli- 
tan, Penn.  Ave.,  near  6th  St.,  300  guests  ^$4  a  day);  the  *Ebbitt,  comer  of  F 
and  14th  Sts.,  800  guests,  a  favorite  resort  for  officers  of  the  army  and  navy ;  the 
*  National,  comer  of  Penn.  Ave.  and  6th  St.,  a  famous  old  hotel,  accommodating 
400  guests  (#4  a  day),  Wormley's,  on  15th  St. ;  the  Imperial,  on  E  St., near  Penn. 
Ave.  and  14th  St. ;  the  Washington,  corner  of  Penn.  Ave.  and  Sd  St. ;  the  Con<^ 
tinental,  Penn.  Ave.,  near  3d  St. ;  the  St  Marc,  Penn.  Ave.  and  7th  St.  (Euro- 
pean plan);  the  Globe,  corner  of  F  and  12th  Sts.  :  the  Milliken,  E  and  10th 
Bt&  ;  the  St.  James  (European),  near  the  Bait  &  Potomac  station  ;  the  Treniont 
(^  2.50  a  day),  near  the  Bait  &  Ohio  station.  Tlie  Union  Hotel  is  eligibly  situated 
til  Georgetown  (corner  of  Bridge  and  Washington  Sts.).  Boarding-hoiisea  are  found 
in  all  parts  of  the  city,  and  with  widely  varying  prices. 

Bestauraiits.  —  *  Welcker's,  on  15th  St  near  H,  is  famous  for  its  costly 
dinners  and  ricli  wines  ;  *  Wormley's  (15th  and  H  Sts. )  is  a  quiet  and  aristocratic 
resort ;  the  *  St.  George  (F  St ,  near  9th)  is  much  frequented  by  ladies,  and  tickets 
are  sold  at  a  lai-ge  discount ;  Harvey  (corner  of  Penn.  Ave.  and  11th  St )  has  oys- 
ters in  every  shape;  Russell  &  Leonard's  (9th  St  &  Pefnn.  Ave.) is  elegant  and 
rich  ;  the  National  (Penn.  Ave.  and  6th  St )  is  a  good  lunch-saloon.  Freund's  is 
in  the  Capitol,  and  is  much  frequented  by  Congressmen;  and  there  is  a  large 
restaurant  in  the  Treasury  Department.  The  hotels  on  the  European  plan 
are  provided  with  dining-rooms  where  meals  are  served  d  {a  carte ;  and  table- 
board  may  be  secured  at  the  better  class  of  boarding-houses  fur  $30-35  a 
month. 

Readlns*  Rooms  are  found  in  the  larger  hotels.  The  *  Library  of  Congress 
is  open  from  10  a.  m.  to  4  £-.  m.,  and  visitors  can  tliere  examine  the  largest  collec- 
tion of  books  in  America.  The  library  and  reading-rooms  of  the  Young  Men's 
Christian  Association  are  open  to  all  visitors  from  9  a.  m.  until  10  p  M.  The  offices 
of  the  Washington  correspondents  of  the  chief  American  neM'spapers  are  on  News- 
paper Bow  and  near  the  corner  of  14th  and  F  Sts.    Though  not  open  as  public 


he  white  dome 
a  6th  St.,  near 


e  most  speedy 
)  national  capi- 
uns  through 
,  New  York  to 
$10  (Pullman- 

e  arrival  of  the 
4.03  P.  M.  (city 
s  described  on 
>ages  386-394; 
The  Limited 
wick,  Trenton, 
Baltimore. 


ur  the  Treasury, 
comer  of  Penn. 
the  *Metropoli' 
}itt,  comer  of  F 
f  and  navy ;  the 
accommodating 
S  St., near  Penn. 
d  St. ;  the  Conf< 
d  7th  St.  (Euro- 
en,  E  and  10th 
•n :  the  Treniont- 
eligibly  situated 
hovMs  are  found 

IS  for  its  costly 
and  aristonratic 
dies,  and  tickets 
til  St )  has  oys* 
.)is  elegant  and 
>n.  Freuitd's  is 
there  is  a  large 
European  plan 
rte ;  and  table- 
fur  $80-S&  a 

ary  of  Congress 
e  largest  coUec- 
he  Young  Men's 
>  M.  The  ofldces 
srsareon  News- 
open  as  public 


Ill 


! 


\ 


IfASHINGTON. 


KmOeeP.   421 


reading-rooms,  the  files  of  papers  in  these  offices  are  generally  accessible  to  Tisi* 
tors  from  their  respective  sections. 

Amasemeiita.  —  The  National  Theatre  (E  St.,  near  14th)  produces  dramas 
and  coiuedies,  witli  a  regular  stocli  company  and  occasional  "  star  "  engagements. 
Operas  are  sometimes  presented  here  during  the  winter  montlis.  Ford  s  Opera 
House  (9th  St,  near  Penn.  Ave.)  has  a  small  auditorium.  Leeturea  and  Conoerte 
are  given  in  Lincoln  Hall,  comer  of  9th  and  D  Sts. :  Masonic  Hall,  corner  of  9th 
and  F  Sts. ;  Odd  Fellows'  HaU,  7th  St.,  between  1)  and  E  Sts. ;  and  Willard's 
Hall,  F  St,  near  14th  St.  Billiards  are  found  in  sevenri  saloons  throughout  the 
city,  the  principal  resort  being  at  the  National  HoteL  German  sports  and  viands 
are  found  at  the  Schuetzen  Parle,  on  7th  St.,  beyond  the  Howard  University. 
Boating  is  a  favorite  unuseraent  of  the  civil-service  men,  who  have  several  weU- 
drilled  rowing-clubs.  Tlieir  races  are  conducted  on  the  broad  reaches  of  the 
Potomac,  and  attract  many  spectators.  Base-ball  is  played  on  the  grounds  in  the 
N.  W.  part  of  the  cifr^. 

Th«  Season*— The  best  times  to  visit  Washington  with  design  to  see  the 
natural  beauties  of  the  city  and  its  environs  are  in  May,  early  June,  and  Octo- 
ber, when  the  air  is  bland  and  genia?  and  the  rich  foliage  of  the  parlis  and  Uie 
flowers  of  the  national  gardens  are  in  bloom.  The  fashionable  season  is  during 
the  winter,  when  much  of  the  brilliant  society  and  talent  of  the  Republic  is  con* 
centrated  here.  The  sessions  of  Congress  begin  on  the  first  Monday  in  Decem- 
ber, and  continue  until  March  4  (in  the  odd-numbered  years),  or  until  early 
sunmier  (in  the  even-numbered  jrears).  During  this  jperiod  the  galleries  of  the 
Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  are  open  to  visitors  (except  during  occa- 
sional short  executive  sessions  of  the  former  body)  ;  and  the  leading  politicians 
of  the  nation  may  there  be  seen.  The  debates  in  the  House  are  oftentimes  spicy 
and  exciting,  but  are  nearly  unintelligible  on  account  of  the  noise ;  and  most 
visitors  will  prefer  the  stately  decorum  and  quietude  of  the  Senate.  The  two 
houses  open  their  sessions  at  noon,  and  the  first  hour  is  devoted  to  the  uninter- 
esting routine  of  reading  the  journal  and  reporting  bills.  The  sessions  usually 
close  late  in  the  afternoon,  though  during  times  of  exigency  and  the  discussion  of 
important  measures  the  Senate  sometimes  continues  in  conclave  until  far  into  the 
night.  When  the  House  is  in  session  a  flag  is  displayed  over  the  S.  wing  of  the 
Capitul:  and  the  flag  over  the  N.  wing  indicates  that  the  Senate  is  in  session. 
When  tne  debates  are  prolonged  into  the  evening,  the  great  lantern  over  the  dome 
is  illuminated,  forming  a  brilliant  mass  of  light  which  is  visible  for  many  miles. 

The  fdshionaible  season  lasts  fh>m  New  Tear's  until  Lent,  and  is  flUed  with** 
round  of  receptions,  balls,  and  parties.  The  days  of  the  receptions  are  announced 
in  the  newspapers,  and  the  Presidential  levees  are  open  to  all  who  may  come. 
Full  evening  dress  should  be  worn,  although  it  is  not  essential  to  admission. 

Ambassactors.  —  The  oCSce  of  the  legation  of  Austria  is  at  17^8  H  St.,  N.  W. ; 
Belgium,  1714  Penn.  Ave. ;  Brazil,  822  Conn.  Ave.,  N.  W.  ;  Chili,  Wormley's 
Hotel :  Denmark ,  2015  G  St  ;  Ecuador,  1741  G  St,  N.  W.  ;  the  French  Repub- 
lic, 1721  H  St,  N.  W.  ;  the  German  Empire.  734  15th  St.,  N.  W. ;  Great  Britain, 
in  the  costly  new  building  of  the  British  Legation,  on  Conn.  Ave.  ;  Hayti,  Ar- 
lington House  :  Italy,  2017  G  St,  N.  W. ;  Japan,  926  Scott  Place  ;  Mexico,  1724 
G  St  ;  Holland^  611  13th  St.  ;  Peru,  1709  H  St.  N.  W. ;  Portugfl,  1725  H  St, 
N.  W. ;  Russia,  1801  PSt.  N.  W. ;  Spain,  1301  K  St,  N.  W. :  Sweden  and  Nor- 
way, 2016  Q  St,  N.  W. ;  Turkey.  1404  H  St.,  N.  W. 

Military  Musio  by  the  Marine  Band  daily  at  guard-mounting  at  the  Marine 
Barracks.  Also  (daring  the  summer)  on  Wednesday  afternoons  in  the  East  Park, 
and  on  Saturday  afternoons  in  the  grounds  of  the  Executive  Mansion. 

CarrlageB*  —  Caution  and  firmness  are  necessary  in  dealing  with  most  of  the 
backiuen  of  Washington.  The  legal  tariff  allows  them :  for  1  -2  passengers  (one- 
horse  coach),  75c.  per  hour  or  per  course,  or  if  less  tiian  1  M.,  ^  the  above  rates ; 
for  1-2  persons  (two-horse  caniage)  per  hour,  $1.50;  per  course  of  overl  M., 
$1;  fur  ?<ioh  additional  passenger,  50c.  In  case  of  disagreement,  drive  to  a 
police-station.  Carriages  for  excursions  beyond  the  city  had  best  be  engaged  at 
the  hotel-offices  or  the  livery-stables.  The  general  price  for  a  barouulie  and  driver, 
to  carry  1  -4  persons  to  the  Soldiers'  Home  or  to  Arlington,  is  $  5.  Among  the 
longer  carriage  routes  (for  which  special  contracts  must  be  made)  are  those  to  the 
Great  Falls  of  the  Potomac,  and  along  the  fortified  heights  from  the  Aqueduct 
Bridge  to  Alexandria.  The  battle-distriit  as  far  as  Manassas  is  often  traversed 
by  parties  of  gentlemen  in  open  carriage!. 


422     nouU69, 


WASHniOTON. 


Oolleetlona  imd  Pnblle  Butldlnst. 

JgricuUure,  Dtpartment  of  (p»e»  488X  ouen  from  9  A.  M.  to  8  F.  K*  daOy.l  Mn- 
■earns  of  Agncultun  and  Entomology  ana  Herbarium. 

*  Arlington  H<nu$  and  National  Cemetery  (page  448),  open  daily  to  all  Tiaiton. 
Jrmy  MediccU  Mtueum  (page  487),  10th  8t,  between  B  and  F ;  daily  from  9  a.m. 

to  8  p.  M . 

Botanical  Gardens  (page  481),  entrances  on  8d  St  and  opposite  the  West  Capitol 
Faric ;  dUly  frx>m  9  a.  m.  to  6  p.  m. 

CapUol  (page  426),  on  Capitol  Hill;  open  daily  until  dark,^aBd  sometimes  till 
late  at  night. 

Cengreasional  Cemetery  (page  425),  open  daily  till  dusk. 

CiAuvnMa  Hospital,  corner  of  L  and  26th  fits.;  Tues.  and  Frl.,  firom  10  a.  x.  to 
4  p.m. 

Colwnbia  Institution  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  (page  440),  reached  by  Columbia 
Railway ;  open  daily. 

Committu-Rooms  in  the  Capitol.  —  Entered  by  permission  of  Lhe  sergeants-at- 
arms. 

*  Congress  (page  421),  open  during  session  from  12  m.  to  8  p.  m.,  or  later. 
Convent  of  the  Visitation  (page  447),  Fftyette  St.,  Georgetown ;  open  to  visitors 

Wed.  and  Sat.  afternoons. 

*  Corcoran  Oallery  of  Art  (p^  440),  cor  9r  of  Penn.  Ave.  and  17th  St.;  open 
daily  from  10  a.  m.  until  dark  (Tues.,  Thura.,  and  Sat.,  firee)L 

Dame  of  tAe  Caigitol  (page  427),  open  daily. 

EdvaaXUm,  Bureau  of,  comer  of  O  and  8th  Sts.  (opposite  Fatont^fllce) ;  open 
daily,  9-8. 

^ExtxniXive  MantHxm  (page  489),  Penn.  Ave.,  near  10th  St.;  open  daily,  10-8 
o'clock. 

*  Georgetown  College  (page  446),  on  Georgetown  Heights ;  open  daily. 
GUnvmod  Cemetery,  It  M.  flrom  the  Capitol :  open  daily. 

Howard  University  (page  445),  7th  St  Road ;  open  daily. 

Insane  Asylum  (page  445),  2  M.  flrom  the  Navy  Yard;  open  Wednesdays,  S-9 

p.  M. 

Interior  Department,  N.  Corridor  of  Patont-Offlce ;  9-8  daily. 

*IAbrary  of  Congress  (page  427),  W.  ftront  of  the  Capitol ;  open  daily,  9-4  (or 
until  the  adjournment  of  Congress). 

Louise  Home,  Mass.  Ave.,  near  15th  St.  (page  488);  open  eve^  afternoon. 

^  Mount  Vernon  (page  450).    Steamboats  daily  from  the  7th  St  whaif. 

Naval  Museum  (page  425),  Navy  Yard ;  open  daily,  9-4. 

^aval  06iservatori/  (page  443),  foot  of  24th  St;  open  daily,  9-8. 

Navy  Department,  17tn  St,  near  Penn.  Ave.;  open  daily,  9-8. 

Navy  Yard  (page  424),  foot  of  8th  St  E.;  open  daily,  7  a.  m.  till  snnset 

•Ooft  Hill  Cemetery  (page  446),  Georgetown  Heights ;  open  daily  from  sunrise  to 
•unset 

** Ordnance  Museum  (page  442),  comer  of  17th  and  F  Sts.;  open  daily,  9-8. 

*  Patent-Office,  Model  Rooms  (i)age  436) ;  open  daily,  9-3. 
Post-Office  (page  436).  open  didly,  9-3. 

President's  House,  see  Executive  Mansion. 

Smithsonian  Institution  and  Museums  (page  482),  open  daily,  9-4. 

*  Soldiers'  Home  (page  445),  3  M  N.  of  the  Capitol ;  grounds  (^n  daily. 
StatCf  Department  of  {page  438),  open  daily  (except  Thursdays),  9^-:^. 
Supreme  Court  (page  428),  open  daily  during  session. 

Treasury  De/partment  (page  439),  open  daily,  9-JL 

W^or  Deporim«'/ii:  (page  442),  open  daily,  9-3. 

Washington  MynvmerA  (page  434),  open  daily  on  application  to  the  keeper,  who 
lives  near  by. 

Fees  and  gratuities  are  not  expected  by  the  attendants  and  custodians  of  the 
national  buildings,  and  attempts  to  bestow  them  would  generally  be  resented. 


1  It  if  almost  raperiluoaa  to  mention  that  the  public  boUdingt  of  WaiUogton,  as  gener* 
ally  throughout  the  Bepublic,  are  doaed  on  Sundiajr.  ^ 


WASHINOTON. 


JtouU  69,      423 


7th  St.;  open 


Inesdays,  8-9 


Po«t*Oflle«f  on  F  Bi  near  7th,  open  ftrom  0  ▲  m.  to  11  p.  m.  ;  and  on  SnndaTi 
from  8  to  iU  ▲.  M.  and  d-7  p.  m.  feUgraph-Ojfiou.  —  Weittern  Union,  corner  of 
Ponn.  Ave.  aud  14th  Bt ;  Franklin,  eov)  Penn.  Ave. 

Uorae-Canu  —  All  points  of  interest  in  che  city  can  be  reached  toy  hone-can. 
The  F  bt.  Hue  (Metropolitan  iUilway)  ruiic  prettily  Aimished  oue-bone  can,  and 
ia  patronized  by  the  better  claMes  (far^,  /c. ;  10  ticlceta  for  60c.).  They  run  every 
4  uiin.,  trota  the  Senate  wing  of  the  Capitol  by  the  Bait  &  Ohio  station,  C  8t, 
Ix>ui8iaQa  Ave..  5th  8t,  F  Ut  (passing  the  Post-Olflce  and  Fatent^Uflke).  14th 
St.,  U  St..  and  17th  St.  (passing  the  War  and  Navy  aud  new  State  Departments). 
The  same  line  rans  cars  from  Lincoln  Square  up  E.  Capital  St.,  1st  St  E.,  B  Bt, 
N.  J.  Ave..  0  St.  Louisiana  Ave.,  5th  St..  F  St.  14th  St.  H.  St,  Conn.  Ave..  P 
St.  West  St.  (Ueoigetown),  High  St.  and  Fayette  St  to  the  Convent  of  the  Visi- 
tation ;  also  from  the  P  St  Circle,  out  Conn.  Ave.  to  the  city-limits  ;  also  from 
the  corner  of  9th  and  M  Sts.  doMrn  9th  St  to  fi  St,  6th  St ,  Missouri  Ave.,  and 
4^  St.  to  the  Arsenal  gate. 

Tlie  Washington  &,  Georgetown  Street  Railway  (fan,  5c.)  runs  every  5  min.  from 
the  Navy  Yard  along  8th  St  £.  and  Penn.  Ave.  to  the  Capitol,  tlience  on  Penn. 
Ave.,  15th  St..  Penn.  Ave.,  and  High  St  (Georgetown).  The  7th  St  Branch  runa 
from  the  Pctomac  Ferry  to  Alexandria  on  7th  St.  (intersecting  the  main  line  at 
Penn.  Ave. )  to  the  city  limits  near  the  Howard  University  ;  where  it  connects 
with  tlie  Silver  Springs  Branca  to  the  Schuetzen  Park  and  the  vicinity  of  the 
Soldiera'  Home.  Tlie  l4th  St  Branch  runs  (every  10  min.)  from  the  Treasury  out 
New  York  Ave.  and  14th  St.  to  the  city  limits  and  the  vicinity  of  tlie  Columbian 
University.  Tlie  Columbia  Railway  runs  (every  10  min.)  from  the  Treasury  over 
New  York  aud  Mass.  Aves.  and  H  St  by  the  Government  Printing-OfHce  and  St 
Aloysius  Cathedral,  and  terminates  at  the  city  limits.  The  Belt  line  runs  fit>m 
the  Ca]))tol  along  1st,  C.  4th,  O,  11th.  E,  14tb,  Ohio  Ave.,  12th,  Virginia,  and 
Maryland  Aves. 

Railroads*  —  The  Bait  &  Ohio,  to  Baltimore  and  the  North  (see  Route  W) ; 
the  Biilt  &  Potomac  (see  Routes  67.  68).  The  Metropolitan  Branch  runti  from  the 
Bait  &  Ohio  station  to  Point  of  Rocks,  43  M.  (Harper's  Ferry,  56  M.).  The  trains 
for  tlie  South  leave  the  Bait.  &  Potomac  station  (comer  of  6th  and  B  Sts.)  by  the 
Washintzton  &  Alexandria  R.  R.  (to  Alexandria,  7  M.). 

Steamboats*  —  For  Norfolk  and  Boston  C>y  transfer),  Mon.  and  Thura.  at 
2  p.  M.  from  the  7th  St.  wharf;  for  New  York  every  Friday  from  the  foot  of  High 
St.,  Georgetown ;  for  Philadelphia  on  Tues.  and  Fri.  fh>m  Water  St,  Georgetown 
(by  Ches.  &  Del.  Canal) ;  for  Baltimore  and  the  river  landings  at  evening  on  Mon., 
Tues..  and  Fri.  ftom  7th  St.  wharf ;  for  Quantico  (Acquia  Creek)  every  morning 
at  7  o'clock,  connecting  with  trains  for  the  South ;  for  the  river  ports  and  the 
Northern  Neck,  on*  Mon.,  Tues..  Thun.,  and  Fri.,  ftom  the  7th-8t  wharf:  for 
Mount  Vernon  daily  at  10  a.  m.  fh>m  7th  St  wharf.  Ferry-boats  run  to  Alex- 
andria every  hour  during  the  day,  ttom  the  7th  9t.  wharf  (fare,  15c. ;  round 
trip,  25c.). 

Washinoton,  the  capital  of  the  Republic  of  the  United  States  of 
America,  is  favorably  situated  on  the  L  bank  of  the  Potomac  River,  at 
its  confluence  with  the  Eastern  Branch.  The  site  of  the  city  is  one  of 
the  finest  in  the  country,  and  occupies  an  undulating  plain  encompassed 
by  high  hills.  It  is  famous  for  its  salubrity,  and  is  rapidly  becoming  a 
favorite  winter  resort,  while  the  wide  avenu&s  are  being  lined  with 
h&ndsome  residences.  The  plan  of  the  streets  is  very  peculiar ;  and  it 
has  been  well  said  that  **  Washington  City  in  its  grand  plan  is  French  ; 
in  its  minor  plan,  Quaker.  It  is  the  city  of  Philadelphia  griddled  across 
the  city  of  Veraailles."  The  rectangular  streets  are  crossed  obliquely  by 
21  broad  avenues  (120-160  ft.  wide),  bearing  the  names  of  the  States; 
and  the  triangular  spaces  at  the  intersections  are  laid  out  aa  parks. 
There  are  264  M.  of  streets  and  avenues,  with  more  width  than  in  any 
other  city ;  and  of  these  OT«r  160  M.  are  firmly  paved  (costing  nearly 


424     ItauueB, 


WASHINGTON. 


$5,000,000).  Massaohusetts  Ave.  and  Penasylrania  Are.  are  eaoh  4)  M. 
long,  extending  across  the  city  ftrom  the  Eastern  Branch  to  Bock  Creek. 
The  last-named  avenue  is  the  main  thoroughfare,  and  passes  the  Capitol 
grounds,  the  Treasury,  White  House,  and  new  State  Department,  and 
continues  the  chief  route  to  Georgetown.  7th  St.  is  the  next  important 
thoroughfare  of  the  city,  and  runs  from  the  wharves  on  the  Potomac  to 
the  heights  by  the  Howard  University,  intersecting  Penn.  Ave.  nearly 
midway  between  the  Capitol  and  the  Treasury.  The  population  of  the 
city  in  1870  was  109,199,  of  whom  35,455  were  negroes,  and  18,757  were 
foreigners  (mostly  Irish  and  German).  There  are  5  banks,  8  daily  and  10 
weekly  papers,  and  120  churches  and  chapels  (of  whicb  20  are  negro,  and 
6  are  German).  There  are  22  lodges  of  Masons,  18  of  Odd  Fellows,  19  of 
Knights  of  Pythias,  7  of  Bed  Men,  4  of  the  Brotherhood  of  the  Union, 
8  tents  of  Bechabites,  6  posts  of  the  Grand  Army  of  the  Be))ublic,  8 
Schuetzenvereins,  2  Tumervereins,  and  7  musical  societies.  The  com- 
merce and  manufactures  of  the  city  are  comparatively  insignificant ;  and 
the  majority  of  the  inhabitants  are,  directly  or  indirectly,  connected  with 
the  civil  and  military  services  of  the  Bepiiblic. 

From  the  Capitol  Grounds,  Maryland  Ave.  leads  S.  W.  to  the  Long 
Bridge,  and  N.  E.  to  the  toll-gate.  JE.  Capitol  St.  runs  E.  (with  a  width 
bf  160  ft.)  to  the  Eastern  Branch,  passing  Lincoln  Square,  on  which  a 
costly  monument  has  been  erected.  N.  Capitol  St.  leads  N.  to  the  Gov- 
ernment Printing-office,  the  largest  printing-house  in  the  world.  The 
building  is  over  400  ft.  long  and  4  stories  high,  and  has  52  presses  and 
800  composing-stands.  The  third  floor  is  occupied  by  the  bindery.  The 
number  of  government  documbuts,  reports,  and  surveys  which  are  printed 
here  annually  is  simply  enormous;  and  some  of  the  illustrated  reports  and 
histories  are  of  great  beauty  and  typographical  excellence.  Just  beyond 
this  point  is  the  Boman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  St.  Aloygiua,  a  plain  but 
spacious  building  where  fine  music  is  heard  on  Sunday  afternoons.  N.  of 
the  Cathedral  is  a  tall  campanile.  New  Jersey  Ave.  runs  N.  N.  W.  from 
the  Capitol  through  a  thinly  settled  district,  passing  the  Bait.  &  Ohio 
station,  and  terminates  at  the  base  of  the  heights,  near  the  Howard 
University. 

Pennsylvania  Ave.  runs  E.  S.  E.  from  the  Capitol  grounds  across  the 
broad  plateau  where  the  city  was  intended  to  have  been  located.  T]^e 
great  building  of  the  Providence  General  Hospital,  i&  seen  on  the  r.  at  2d 
St.,  and  is  conducted  by  the  Sisters  of  CHiarity.  At  8th  St.  the  horse-car 
line  and  the  current  of  general  travel  turns  S.  and  passes  to  the  Navy 
Yard,  by  tho  Marine  Barracks.  The  *  Washington  Navy  Yard  is  situ- 
ated on  the  Eastern  Branch,  or  Anacostia  Biver,  1^  M.  S.  E.  of  the  Capi- 
tol (horse-cars  every  6  min.).  It  covers  27  acres,  and  is  entered  by  a 
portal  which  was  designed  by  Latrobe.    Within  the  entrance  are  2  long 


WASHINGTON. 


MoiUe  69.     425 


eaoh4)M. 
lock  Greek, 
the  Capitol 
tment,  and 
\,  important 
Potomac  to 
Ave.  nearly 
\tion  of  the 
18,757  were 
laily  and  10 
>  negro,  and 
llows,  19  of 
:  the  Union, 
Bepnblic,  8 
The  coro- 
lificant;  and 
inected  with 

to  the  Long 

vith  a  width 

on  which  a 

to  the  Oov- 

world.    The 

I  presses  and 

ndery.    The 

I  are  printed 

reports  and 

Just  beyond 

a  plain  but 

>ons.    N.  of 

N.  W.  from 

lalt.  &  Ohio 

;he  Howard 

across  the 
cated.  l%e 
the  r.  at  2d 
le  horse-car 
the  Navy 
ard  is  situ- 
rf  the  Capi- 
itered  by  a 
are  2  long 


brass  cannon  which  were  captured  by  Decatnr  flrom  the  TripoUtan  gun- 
boats (in  1804).  Offlcem'  quarters  are  seen  on  either  side;  and  a  short 
distance  to  the  r.  is  the  *  HftTftl  MoMiim,  a  small  two-story  bnilding, 
whose  interior  is  kept  in  remarkable  order,  and  with  true  man-of-war's- 
man's  daintiness.  The  polished  wooden  walls  and  ceilings  are  adorned 
with  stars,  circles,  and  crosses  formed  of  bright  cutlasses.  Here  may  be 
seen  Confederate  torpedoes ;  projectiles  in  great  variety ;  war-rockets  ; 
marine  howitzers  ;  models  of  heavy  navul  artillery;  swivels;  a  cannon 
used  by  Cortez  in  the  Conquest  of  Mexico  ;  a  mortar  captured  from  Lord 
Cornwallis  ;  Spanish  gims  ;  blunderbusses  ;  two  20-inch  cannon«lMtlUi 
from  the  cannon  on  the  Rip-Raps  Battery ;  and  the  stem  post  of  the 
frigate  Ktarsarge^  smashed  by  a  shell  from  the  Alahama. 

The  Artillery  Park  is  .beyond  the  Commandant's  residence;  near  the 
centre  of  the  yard,  and  contains  a  remarkably  interesting  trophy-battery. 
Here  are  the  powerful  armaments  of  the  Confederate  iron-clads  Albe- 
marUf  Atlanta^  and  Tennessee;  an  immense  Whitworth  gun  from  Fort 
Fisher ;  other  heavy  artillery  from  the  Southern  coast;  Austrian  and 
French  guns;  and  a  heavy  cannon  which  was  on  the  Confederate  ram,  the 
Merrimac.  There  is  a  fleet  of  vessels  in  the  stream,  among  which  are 
several  monitors  and  torpedo-boats.  The  monitors  are  battered  veteran! 
of  the  Secession  War,  and  may  be  inspected  on  securing  a  permit  at  the 
office  of  the  Yard.  High  up  on  the  opposite  shore  is  the  imposing  firont 
of  the  Asylum  for  the  Insane ;  and  pleasant  views  are  afforded  down  the 
river.  The  Experimental  Battery  is  near  the  shore,  and  is  devoted  to  in- 
culcating the  principles  of  naval  gunnery.  The  great  ship-houses,  ord- 
nance-foundries, store-houses,  and  other  buildings  in  the  Yard,  will  attract 
the  attention  of  the  visitor.  Two  squares  N.  of  the  gate  are  the  Karine 
Barraoki,  the  head-quarters  of  the  U.  S.  Marine  Corps,  a  body  of  2,600 
men,  who  are  the  soldiers  of  the  fleets  of  the  Republic,  and  have  rendered 
the  most  illustrious  and  brilliant  services  in  all  quarters  of  the  globe. 
The  ceremony  of  guard-mounting  is  performed  at  the  barracks  erery 
morning  (8  in  the  summer  and  9  in  the  winter),  with  military  pre- 
cision and  the  music  of  the  famous  Marine  Band.  There  are  some  inter- 
eisting  trophy-flags  in  the  armory.  The  Washington  Navy  Yard  was 
established  in  1804,  and  here  were  built  the  renowned  frigates,  the  Wasp, 
Viper,  Essex,  Argus,  St.  Louis,  Potomac,  Brandymne,  Columbia,  and 
others. 

The  Congn^siional  Cemetery  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  high  blnff 
over  the  Eastern  Branch,  1  M.  above  the  Navy  Yard,  and  contains  over 
20  acres.  There  are  147  plain  freestone  cenotaphs,  erected  in  honor  of 
the  Congressmen  who  have  died  during  their  terms  of  service. 

Among  the  monuments  are  those  of  Oen.  Jacob  Brown,  commander  of  the  U. 
B.  Army  from  1821  to  1828  i  Oen.  Alexander  Macomb,  bis  successor ;  Qena.  Gibson 


426    Jtouues, 


WASHINGTON. 


and  Hendenon ;  Commodorec  Tlngejr,  Channocy,  Wainwrlght,  IfontooiMTj.  and 
other  offloen  of  the  army  and  aavy ;  Elbrldge  Oernr  and  George  Clinton,  Vice* 
Preeldente  of  the  U.  8. ;  John  Fonyth.  Secretary  of  State  from  1886  to  1841 :  A. 
P.  Upehur,  Secretary  of  Btote,  1848-44  (killed  by  the  bursting  of  a  gun  on  the 
ftrigate  PHneton,) ;  wlllUm  Wirt,  Attomey-tien.  ftrom  1817  to  1880 :  A.  D.  fiaohe. 
Superintendent  of  the  U.  H.  Coaet  Survey  from  1848  to  1867  :  Joseph  Lovel,  Bur- 
aeon-General  of  the  Army  trom  1818  to  1886 :  Tobias  Lear,  private  secretary  of 
Washington ;  and  many  other  notable  men.  Several  of  the  monuments  are  dis- 
tinguished for  artistic  merit  and  beauty.  Beyond  the  Cemetery  is  tiie  reservv 
tion  occupied  by  the  Army  and  Navy  Msgaidnea. 

Tlie  •  *  Capitol  of  the  United  Btatei  is  probably  the  most  mag- 
tiiflcfint  and  imposing  building  in  the  world.  It  stands  on  the  summit  of 
Capitol  Hill  (89^  ft.  high),  with  the  W.  front  overlooking  the  city,  and 
the  main  front  facing  £.  on  the  plateau  towards  the  Eastern  Branch.  The 
Bun-ounding  parks  are  now  being  altered  and  artificialized,  with  broad 
plazas,  bronze  lamps,  flower  caskets,  etc.  The  general  style  of  the 
architecture  of  the  Capitol  is  classic,  and  the  stmcture  consists  of  a 
main  building  of  Acquia  Creek  freestone  (whitened),  surmounted  by 
a  mi^estic  and  somewhat  disproportionate  iron  dome,  and  flanked  by 
great  marble  extensions.  It  is  751  ft.  long,  824  ft.  in  extreme  depth, 
covers  3^  acres  of  ground,  and  has  cost  over  $  13,000,000.  The  *  central 
portico,  on  the  R  front,  is  160  ft.  long,  and  consists  of  24  monolithic  col- 
umns supporting  a  tympanum  in  which  are  the  sculptures  of  Persico 
representing  the  Oenius  of  America,  with  Hope  and  Justice.  The  portico 
is  approached  by  broad  stone  stairways,  on  whose  upper  buttresses  are 
the  statuary-groups  representing  the  Discovery  of  America  (carved  by 
Persico),  and  the  First  Settlement  of  America  (carved  by  Oreenough  in 
1842).  On  r.  and  1.  of  the  entrance  are  colossal  *  statues  of  Peace  and 
War,  in  fine  Carrara  marble;  and  over  the  portal  is  a  bas-relief  represent- 
ing Fame  and  Peace  crowning  Washington  with  laurel.  The  Capitol  is 
entered  by  a  *  bronze  door  19  ft.  high,  which  was  designed  by  Randolph 
Bogers  and  was  cast  at  Munich  in  1860  (placed  in  its  present  position  in 
1871). 

The  exquisite  statuettes  and  relievos  on  the  door  represent  the  Life  of  Columbus 
and  the  Discovery  of  America,  and  at  the  key  of  the  arch  is  a  head  of  Columbus. 
On  the  sides  are  allegorical  statuettes  of  Asia,  Africa,  Europe,  and  America. 
There  are  16  statuettes,  representing  Fojpe  Alexander  VL,  Cardinal  Archbishop 
de  Mendoxa,  King  Ferdinand  of  Spain,  Queen  Isabella,  King  Charles  VIII.  of 
France,  Lady  Beatriz  de  Bobadilla,  King  John  II.  of  Portugal,  King  Henry  VII. 
of  Enc^nd,  Prior  de  Marchena,  Pinzon,  Hernando  Cortez,  Bartholomew  Columbus, 
Ojeda,  Balboa,  Amerigo  Vespucci,  and  Francisco  Pizarro.  The  panel-reliefis  rep- 
resent Columbus  before  the  Council  of  Salamanca,  Columbus  sailing  trom  Palos  for 
Spain,  his  audience  at  the  Spanish  Court,  his  embarkation  trom  Palos,  landing  on 
Ban  Salvador,  battle  with  we  Indians,  his  triumph  at  Barcelona,  Columbus  in 
chains,  his  death-bed.  ^ 

The  visitor  now  enters  the  *  Botanda»  a  remarkable  circular  hall  96  ft. 
in  diameter  and  180  ft.  high.  Over  the  doors  are  infertor  bas-reliefs  by 
disciples  of  Canova,  representing :  (E.)  the  Landing  of  the  Pilgrims  at 
Plymoufh;  <S.)  Daniel  Boone  fighting  the  Indians;  (W.)  Pocahontas  sav- 


WASHINGTON. 


JtouUe9.      427 


ing  Capt.  John  Smith  ;  (N.)  William  Penn  in  Council  with  the  Indians. 
Thefriexe  (300  ft.  long)  ia  to  be  adorned  with  an  erobleniatio  series  of 
sonlptnres  representing  the  history  of  the  United  States.  The  Rotui.da 
is  surrounded  with  8  panels  containing  large  historical  paintings,  dis- 
tinguished rather  for  accuracy  and  fidelity  than  for  artistic  merit  The 
subjects  are  :  The  ♦  Declaration  of  Independence,  by  Trumbull ;  the  Sur- 
render of  Burgoyne,  Trumbull ;  the  Surrender  of  Comwallis,  Tntn^uU  ; 
Washington  resigning  his  Commission,  Trumbull;  the  *  Embarkation  of 
the  Pilgrims  at  Delft-Haven,  Weir  ;  the  •  Discovery  of  the  Mississippi 
River,  Powell ;  the  •  Landing  of  Columbus,  Vanderlyn  ;  the  Baptism  of 
Pocahontas,  Weir  (a  fine  analysis  of  these  pictures  is  given  in  Keim'a 
Washington). 

Tlie  *  Library  of  Coniprefi  is  reached  by  thr  corridor  from  Ihe  W. 
door  of  the  Rotunda,  and  occupies  lofty  halls  which  are  built  of  marble 
and  iron.  The  Library  contains  300,000  volumes  and  60,000  pamphlets, 
and  is  the  largest  in  America  and  the  16th  in  size  in  the  world.  It  is 
especially  famous  for  its  collections  relathig  to  the  history  of  the  We  ^f  rn 
Hemisphere  ;  for  its  extensive  law-library  ;  and  for  ancient  book  •.  the 
16th  and  16th  centuries,  autograph  folios  and  MSS.,  and  files  ot  news- 
papers (among  which  is  a  series  of  the  London  Oazette  f  otu  16G5  until 
1874).  The  illustrated  books  are  found  here  in  great  num.«ers  and  in  the 
most  costly  editions.  Ancient  black-letter  and  vellum  MSS ,  autograph 
collections,  rare  incunalnUa,  and  other  quaint  literary  curiosities,  are 
found  here.  Books  may  be  read  in  the  halls  by  visitors.  The  *view 
firom  the  lofty  W.  portico  of  the  Capitol  (entered  from  the  Library)  is  of 
great  beauty,  and  includes  the  city  and  public  buildings,  Arlington 
Heights,  and  Alexandria.  The  Library  of  Congress  was  founded  in  1800; 
destroyed  by  the  British  in  1814;  was  partially  burnt  in  1851  (when 
85,000  volumes  were  destroyed);  absorbed  the  Smithsonian  Institution 
Library  in  1866,  and  the  Force  Collection  in  1867.  Plans  are  being  can- 
vassed for  thA  purpose  of  erecting  (near  the  Ca3>it'?I)  a  new  and  appropri- 
ate fire-proof  ouilding  for  the  occupation  of  th«i  rapidly  increasing  liter- 
ary collections. 

The  *  Dome  of  the  Capitol  overarches  tl;  >  Rotunda,  and  is  307^  ft.  high 
(from  the  base-line  of  the  building  to  the  top  of  the  statue)  and  135^  ft.  in 
diameter.  It  is  exceeded  in  size  only  by  the  domes  of  St  Peter's  (at 
Rome),  St  Paul's  (at  London),  St.  Isaac's  (at  St.  Petersburg),  and  St. 
Louis  des  Invalides  (at  Paris).  The  structure  is  crowned  by  a  bronze 
*  statue  of  Freedom,  designed  by  Crawford  and  cast  by  Clark  Mills  at 
Bladensburg.  The  statue  is  19|  ft.  high,  and  stands  on  a  globe  which  is 
encircled  by  the  legend  £  Plurihus  Unum.  The  majestic  beauty  and 
sense  of  power  in  IMs  fine  piece  of  statuary  will  attract  the  visitor's  at- 
touMon.    Upon  its  lofty  and  heroic  face  fall  the  first  rays  of  sunshine  * 


428      RotUe  69. 


WASHINGTON. 


at  morning.  The  dome  is  of  iron  and  weighs  over  8,000,000  ponnds,  rest- 
ing on  massive  columns  and  piers  below.  It  is  ascended  by  a  stairway 
diverging  to  the  1.  from  the  corridor  which  leads  from  the  N.  door  of 
the  Rotunda  (passing  near  the  curious  electrical  apparatus  for  lighting  the 
gas-jets).  Above  the  entablature  of  the  building  an  open  peristyle  is 
reached,  bordered  by  36  fluted  Corinthian  columns,  and  affording  a  pleas- 
ant walk  around  the  dome.  The  stairway  then  ascends  to  the  balustrade, 
whence  is  viewed  the  great  *  fresco  of  the  Apotkeosin  of  Washington, 
painted  on  the  inner  shell  of  the  dome  and  covering  5,000  square  ft. 
This  work  was  done  by  Brumidi  (a  Roman  by  birth,  American  by  adop- 
tion), and  cost  $  40,000.  Washington  has  Freedom  on  his  r.  and  Victory 
on  his  1.,  with  the  13  States  in  thit  foreground ;  and  below  are  groups 
representing  :  the  Fall  of  Tyranny,  Agriculture,  the  Mechanic  Arts,  Com- 
merce, the  Ocean,  the  Arts  and  Sciences  (Franklin,  Fulton,  and  Morse, 
with  Minerva).  On  this  balustrade  is  a  remarkable  whispering-gallery, 
and  a  stairway  leads  up  to  the  promenade  at  the  base  of  the  great  lantern 
(which  is  modelled  after  the  monume.it  of  Lysicrates,  at  Athens). 

The  'view  flrom  this  point  is  interesting  and  beautiftd.  Looking  directly  over 
the  Senate  Wing,  N.  Ca|ntol  St.  is  seen  crossing  the  railroad,  and  rupning  out  by 
the  Government  Printihg-Offlce  and  th6  Cathedral  of  St.  Aloysius.  On  the  distant 
heights  are  the  white  buildings  of  the  Soldiers'  Home,  and  a  little  to  the  1.  is  the 
Howard  University  Passing  to  the  1.,  in  the  octant  between  N.  J.  Ave.  and 
Penn.  Ave.,  is  seen  the  seat  of  the  chief  business  and  population  of  the  city,  with 
the  white  Patent  and  Post  Offices  and  the  City  HaU.  In  the  distance  are  the 
heights  of  Georgetown  and  Kaloramn.  Looking  straight  down  Penn.  Ave.,  the 
eye  encounters  the  gray  walls  of  the  Treasury  and  a  part  of  the  White  House, 
with  the  turrets  of  Georgetown  College,  on  the  distant  heights,  and  the  Aqueduct 
Bridge  over  the  great  market  To  the  W.  are  the  national  parks,  with  the  Conser- 
vatory, Armory,  Smithsonian  Institute,  Agricultural  Depai-tment,  and  Washington 
Monument ;  and  on  the  dark  heights  across  the  Potomac  is  the  yellow  colonnade 
of  the  Arlington  mansion.  Maryland  Ave.  leads  to  the  Long  Bridge,  which  is 
seen  crossing  the  river  to  the  sites  of  the  old  camps  and  forts  of  the  Army  of  the 
Potomac.  Almost  due  S.  W.,  the  spire  of  Fairfax  Seminary  (Episcopal)  cuts  the 
sky-line  over  the  distant  Virginian  heights.  Farther  to  the  1.  is  the  Arsenal,  at 
the  confluence  of  the  Potomac  and  the  Eastern  Branch  (or  Anacostia  River),  over 
which  is  Alexandria,  with  wide  reaches  of  the  placid  Potomac.  N.  J.  Ave.  runs 
8.  E.,  by  the  Coast  Survey  buildings,  to  the  Eastern  Branch ;  and  the  Insane 
Asylum  is  seen  on  the  hills  beyond.  To  the  1  is  the  Navy  Yard.  Penn.  Ave. 
runs  out  towai-d  the  Congressional  Cemetery.  Looking  over  the  E.  park,  the 
course  of  E.  Capitol  St.  is  followed  to  the  Eastern  Branch. 

The  capitoline  dome  was  less  than  half  done  at  the  outbreak  of  the  Secession 
War.  Work  was  suspended  upon  it  at  that  time,  but  was  resumed  at  the  desire 
of  the  commander  of  the  national  volunteers,  who  claimed  that  the  cessation  of 
the  work  at  the  Capitol  had  a  dispiriting  effect  upon  the  soldiers.  The  Editor  has 
often  stood  upon  the  luiflnished  dome  (in  the  winter  of  1861-62),  and,  by  the  help 
of  a  field-glass,  has  seen  the  rebel  troops  drilling  on  the  slopes  of  Munson's  Hill, 
whose  summit  was  crowned  by  a  battery  over  which  floated  the  Confederate  flag. 

The  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States  occupies  the  old  Senate 

Chamber,  which  is  reached  by  the  corridor  running  N.  from  the  Rotunda. 

Visitors  are  admitted  during  the  sessions  of  the  court  (October  to  May, 

12-4  p.  M.).    This  hall  is  not  large,  but  is  one  of  the  most  symmetrical 

*  in  the  Capitol.    It  is  semicircular,  and  on  its  diameter-line  is  a  screen  of 


WASHINGTON. 


Jtwte  69,     429 


ndSj  rest* 
stairway 
,  door  of 
;hting  the 
ristyle  is 
I  a  pleas- 
ilustrade, 
shingtoiif 
iquare  ft. 
by^adop- 
d  Victory 
re  groups 
rts,  Cora- 
id  Morse, 
g-gallery, 
at  lantern 
). 

rectly  over 
tng  out  by 
the  distant 
he  1.  is  the 
,  Ave.  and 
i  city,  with 
ice  are  the 
.  Ave.,  the 
ite  House, 
» Aqueduct 
he  Conscr- 
^ashington 

colonnade 
),  which  is 
my  of  the 
il)  cuts  the 
Ajrsenal,  at 
liver),  over 
,  Ave.  runs 
the  Insane 
Penn.  Ave. 

park,  the 

)  Secession 
the  desire 
issatiOn  of 
Editor  has 
)y  the  help 
iBon's  Hill, 
lerate  flag. 

Id  Senate 
Botunda. 
r  to  May, 
mmetrical 
screen  of 


Ionic  colnmns  of  rich  Potomac  marble  {Jbreccia).  The  exceeding  simplicity 
of  the  hall  is  relieved  by  a  series  of  busts  of  the  former  Chief  Justices  of 
the  Republic.  The  Supreme  Court  is  the  tribunal  of  final  appeal,  and  is 
the  head  of  this  judicial  department  of  the  national  government. 

The  Senate  Exteniion  is  reached  by  tVI  N.  corridor,  beyond  the 
Supreme  Court.  In  outwaixl  form  it  is  similar  to  the  House  Extension, 
and  is  also  built  of  Massachusetts  marble,  with  colonnaded  fronts  to  the 
N.  and  W.  j  and  on  the  K  a  grand  *  portico,  reached  by  a  broad  and  lofty 
marble  stairway.  It  consists  of  22  rich  monolithic  Corinthian  columns 
of  Maryland  marble,  arranged  in  double  lines,  and  supporting  a  pediment 
and  tympanum  which  contains  a  group  of  statuary  by  Crawford,  repre- 
senting the  Progress  of  Civilization  in  the  United  States.  America  is  the 
central  figure,  on  whose  1.  are  figures  of  the  Pioneer,  the  Hunter,  and  an 
Indian  warrior  and  squaw ;  and  on  the  r.  are  War,  Commerce,  Youth, 
Education,  Mechanics,  and  Agriculture.  The  superb  marble  vestibule  is 
entered  by  a  '"'bronze  door,  which  was  designed  by  Crawford  and  cast  at 
Chicopee,  Mass. 

The  Munich  foundry  reftised  to  make  this  door  unless  its  cost  was  prepaid  by 
the  U.  S.  government  (it  was  then  the  dark  hour  of  the  Secession  War) ;  and  such 
derogatonr  advances  being  declined,  the  model  was  shipped  to  America,  and  was 
cast  and  finished  in  admirable  style.  The  panel-reliera  represent  the  Battle  of 
Bunker  Hill  (death  of  Warren),  the  Battle  of  Monmouth  (rebuke  of  Qen.  Lee), 
the  Battle  of  Yorktown,  Washington's  Triumphal  Reception  at  Trenton,  the 
Inaiiguration  of  Washington,  and  the  Foundation  of  the  Capitol. 

The  first  door  to  the  L  in  the  corridor  leads  into  the  Senate  Post-OJiee, 
which  is  embellished  with  rich  frescos  representing  History,  Geography, 
Physical  Science,  and  Telegraphy.  The  Senate  lobby  is  open  when  the 
Senate  is  not  in  session,  and  leads  to  the  Vice-President's  Room  (wherein 
is  Rembrandt  Peale's  portrait  of  Washington)  and  the  *  ICarble  Boonif 
whose  sides  and  ceiling  are  of  highly  polished  marble  of  various  colors. 
The  windows  overlook  the  N.  part  of  the  city.  The  President's  Room  is 
one  of  the  richest  in  the  Capitol,  and  is  adorned  with  frescos,  symbolic, 
arabesque,  and  portrait.  The  *  Senate  Chamber  is  best  seen  from  the 
galleries  of  the  people,  which  are  reached  by  two  grand  stairways.  The 
E.  stairway  runs  up  from  the  corridor  in  which  is  a  marble  *  statue  of 
Benjamin  Franklin,  by  Hiram  Powers.  The  stairway  is  made  of  rich 
Tennessee  marble,  with  columns  of  the  same  material,  surmounted  by 
bronze  capitals.  At  the  head  of  the  stairway  is  Powell's  painting  of  the 
Battle  of  Lake  Erie.  The  W.  stairway  is  of  highly  polished  white  marble, 
and  is  adorned  with  Walker's  *  painting  of  the  Battle  of  Chapultepec.  At 
the  foot  of  the  stairway  is  a  marble  statue  of  John  Hancock,  by  Horatio 
Stone.  The  *  Senate  Chamber  is  113^  ft.  long,  80|  ft.  wide,  and  36  ft. 
high,  md  is  surrounded  by  galleries  for  the  use  of  the  people.  There  are 
74  Senatorial  desks,  arranged  in  8  concentric  semicircular  lines.    The 


N 


:i 


430     ItintU  69. 


WASHINGTON. 


ceiling  is  an  immense  plane  of  iron  and  glass,  with  deep  panels  and  ornate 
cornices,  and  21  stained-glass  symbolic  centre-pieces. 

The  basement  of  the  Senate  Extension  is  occupied  by  richly  finished  and 
frescoed  committee-rooms  ;  and  the  corridors  are  painted  throughout  in 
the  most  delicate  and  beau0ul  manner  (the  darkness  of  this  part  of  the 
building  prevents  a  sufficient  study  of  these  rich  frescos).  The  fauna  and 
flora  of  Americai  and  numerous  portrait-medallions,  are  depicted  with 
great  skill  upon  the  corridor  walls,  in  a  style  borrowed  from  Raphael's 
loggie  at  Rome. 

Passing  S.  from  the  Rotunda  the  visitor  sees,  on  the  1.,  a  stairway  which 
leads  to  the  crypt  of  the  Capitol,  with  its  40  elephantine  columns  support- 
ing the  immense  weight  above.  The  upper  corridor  leads  to  the  *  Na- 
tional Statuary  Hall,  a  stately  and  imposing  chamber  of  semicircular 
form  (96  ft.  in  diameter  and  57  ft.  high),  bordered  by  monolithic  columns 
of  variegated  marble.  This  hall  was  used  for  32  years  for  the  sessions  of 
the  House  of  Representatives,  and  is  generally  conceded  to  be  the  noblest 
in  the  Capitol.  It  was  designed  after  an  ancient  Athenian  theatre,  with 
a  dome  like  the  Roman  Pantheon.  "  Here  Clay  presided,  Webster  made 
his  dibut,  Adams  died."  Over  the  N.  door  is  a  marble  *  clock,  repre- 
senting History  standing  in  the  car  of  Time  and  recording  the  passing 
events.  Over  the  S.  door  is  a  statue  of  Liberty,  by  a  disciple  of  Canova, 
and  an  eagle,  by  Valaperti.  In  1864  this  hall  was  set  apart  as  a  national 
gallery,  and  each  State  was  requested  to  send  to  it  statues  of  two  of  its 
representative  men.  Rhode  Island  has  sent  Gen.  Greene  (marble)  and 
Roger  Williams  (marble);  Connecticut  has  sent  Jonathan  Trumbull  and 
Roger  Sherman  (both  marble);  New  York,  George  Clinton  (bronze)  and 
Robert  R.  Livingston  (bronze) ;  New  Jersey  is  to  send  Gen.  Philip 
Kearny  and  Richard  Stockton  ;  Maryland  will  send  Charles  Carroll  and 
Roger  B.  Taney ;  and  Massachusetts  has  chosen  Winslow  and  Samuel 
Adams.  Busts  of  Kosciuszko,  Lincoln,  and  Crawford ;  statues  of  Lincoln, 
*  Hamilton,  II  Penseroso,  and  Washington,  further  adorn  the  hall,  with 
the  statues  of  Gov.  Winslow,  Ethan  Allen,  and  *  Thomas  Jefferson. 

The  corridor  running  S.  from  this  hall  leads  to  the  Hoase  Extenaioii. 
This  superb  building  is  fronted  by  porticos  similar  to  those  of  the  Senate 
(the  bronze  doors  ar-o  not  yet  finished),  and  the  main  vestibule  is  flanked 
by  coupled  columns.  The  Speaker's  Room  is  to  the  1.,  and  is  richly 
adorned.  The  corridors  about  the  galleries  of  the  people  are  reached  by 
two  stately  stairways  of  marble.  At  the  head  of  the  E.  stairway  is  a  large 
equestrian  portrait  of  Gen.  Winfleld  Scott;  and  at  its  foot  is  a  *  statue  of 
Thomas  Jefferson,  by  Hiram  Powers.  At  the  foot  of  the  W.  stairway  is 
a  bronze  bust  of  a  Chippewa  warrior,  and  at  its  head  is  the  immense 
chromo-silica  *  fresco  by  Emanuel  Leutze,  entitled  Westward  Ho,  depict> 
iug  a  band  of  Western  pioneers. 


WASHINGTON. 


JtmOe  69.     431 


The  *  Hall  of  the  fiepreientativef  is  the  noblest  legislative  hall  in  the 
world.  It  is  139  ft.  long,  93  ft.  wide,  and  36  ft.  high,  and  contains  deska 
for  302  members,  arranged  in  7  concentric  semicircles.  On  the  r.  of  the 
marble  desk  of  the  Speaker  is  the  pedestal  of  Vermont  marble  on  which 
is  kept  the  mace  wliich  typifies  the  authority  of  the  House;  and  overhead 
are  two  brilliant  American  flags.  On  the  S.  wall  are  *  portraits  of  Wash- 
ington (by  Vanderlyn)  and  Lafayette  (by  Ary  8cheffer)\  also  the  fresco 
(by  Brumidi)  of  Washmgton  receiving  Lord  Comwallis's  Envoy  at  York- 
town.  The  ceiling  of  the  Hall  is  highly  adorned,  and  is  of  iron-work, 
with  45  stained-glass  panels  containing  the  arms  of  the  States.  The  base- 
ment of  the  House  Extension  is  adorned  with  scagliola  walls  and  elegant 
colonnades  of  fluted  marble  columns.  Bierstadt's  paintings  of  King's- 
Biver  Cation  and  the  Discovery  of  the  Hudson  are  in  the  Hall.  The  fres- 
cos in  the  chamber  of  the  Committee  on  Agriculture  are  very  rich. 

The  corner-stone  of  the  Capitol  was  laid  in  1793  by  George  Washington,  with 
naaonic  rites  and  ceremonies.  The  building  was  destroyed  by  the  British  in  1814, 
and  was  rebuilt  soon  after.  Dec.  12,  1803,  the  statue  of  IiYeedom  was  elevated 
to  its  present  position'  on  the  new  dome  ^which  cost  91,000,000),  and  the  N.  and  . 
8.  Extensions  were  completed  interiorily  in  1859  and  1857.  The  halls  of  Congress 
were  converted  into  a  citadel  early  in  1861 ;  then  they  became  barracks  for  the 
National  volunteers ;  and  on  subsequent  occasions  the  corridors  were  used  as  hos- 
pitals for  the  army.  The  comer-stone  of  the  Extensions  was  laid  in  1851,  and 
contains  the  wor^s  of  Daniel  Webster  : 

"  If,  therefore,  it  shall  be  hereafter  the  will  of  God  that  this  structure  shall  fall 
fh)m  its  l)ase,  that  its  foundation  be  upturned,  and  this  deposit  brought  to'  the 
eyes  of  men,  be  it  then  known  that  on  this  day  the  Union  of  the  United  Btatea 
of  America  stands  firm,  that  their  Constitution  still  exists  unimpaired,  and  with 
all  its  original  usefulness  and  glory,  growing  every  day  stronger  and  stronger  in 
the  affection  of  the  great  body  of  the  American  people,  and  attracting  more  and 
more  the  admiration  of  the  world.  And  all  here  assembled,  whether  mlonging  to 
public  life  or  to  private  life,  with  hearts  devoutly  thankful  to  Almighty  Qod  for 
the  preservation  of  the  liberty  and  happiness  of  the  country,  unite  in  sincere  and 
fervent  prayers  that  this  deposit,  and  the  walls  and  arches,  the  domes  and  towers, 
the  columns  and  entablatures,  now  to  be  erected  over  it,  may  endure  forever. 

"  God  save  the  United  States  of  America. 

"Daniel  Webster, 

"Secretary  of  State  of  the  United  States." 

In  the  R  Park  is  Greenough's  *  statue  of  George  Washington,  a  colossal 
figure  in  classic  costume,  and  in  a  sitting  posture.  It  was  made  in  Florence, 
occupied  8  years  in  its  completion,  and  cost  $44  000.  It  has  been  regarded 
as  one  of  the  grandest  statues  in  the  history  of  art,  and  has  also  met  with 
much  ridicule  and  condemnation.  Tlie  W  front  of  the  Capitol  overlooks 
a  line  of  massive  casemates,  which  were  built  for  fuel,  and  were  fronted 
by  a  fine  glacis.  These  chambers  were  used  in  1861  for  the  bakeries  of 
the  army.  S.  of  the  Capitol,  on  New  Jersey  Ave ,  is  the  head-quarters 
of  the  Coast  Survey,  which  "was  suggested  by  Jefferson,  begun  by 
Gallatin,  organized  by  Hassler,  perfected  by  Bache,  and  is  recognized  by 
every  learned  body  in  the  world." 

The  *  Botanical  Gardens  (open  9-6)  are  W.  of  the  Capitol,  and  cover 
10  acres.    The  conservatory  is  300  ft.  long  and  is  built  of  glass  and  iron. 


'I 


II 


Si 


I  fi 


I 


t 


432     n<mte  69, 


WASHINGTON. 


with  a  symmetrical  central  dome.  Under  the  dome  are  mimerons  yarieties 
of  palms  in  rich  ft'ondage,  luxuriant  tropical  ferns,  mangoes,  cinnamon- 
trees,  bananas,  and  many  other  plants  from  the  tropics.  The  temperature 
is  kept  at  80".  In  the  wings  are  large  and  brilliant  *  collections  of  the 
imique  plants,  fruits,  and  flowers  of  Africa,  South  America,  Mexico,  the 
Indies,  and  the  South  Sea  Islands.  This  is,  without  doubt,  the  most 
extensive  and  varied  botanical  collection  on  the  continent,  and  is  supplied 
with  fresh  curiosities  by  the  naval  exploring  expeditions.  The-  other 
conservatories  contain  (i:;  their  seasons)  immense  masses  of  rare  and 
brilliant  American  flow(  .'s,  and  a  fine  fountain  is  located  N.  of  the 
buildings. 

The  *  Smithsonian  Institution  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  buildings 
in  the  capital  city,  and  stands  on  the  mall  between  the  Department  of 
Agriculture  and  7th  St.  It  is  in  Norman  Gothic,  or  Romanesque,  archi- 
tecture, and  is  built  of  Seneca  sandstone  of  a  warm  reddish-brown  hue. 
The  main  building  is  fronted  by  two  stately  towers,  between  which  is  the 
carriage-porch  and  entrance.  There  are  7  other  towers,  of  which  the  octag- 
onal and  campanile  towers  of  the  main  building  are  the  most  conspic- 
uous. The  whole  structure  is  447  ft.  long,  and  the  main  tower  is  150  ft. 
high.  The  E.  wing  is  occupied  as  a  residence  by  Prof.  Henry,  the  secre- 
tary of  the  Institution ;  and  the  W.  wing  is  ended  by  an  elegant  little 
buUding  draped  with  luxuriant  ivy,  and  resembling  an  antique  chapeL 
The  *  National  Museum  is  in  the  main  hall,  which  is  200  ft.  long.  Many 
of  the  curiosities  were  taken  to  the  Centennial  Exposition. 

On  the  r.  are  the  larger  mammalia,  beyond  which  are  cases  containing  the 
birds  of  all  the  Americas,  alternating  with  collections  of  war-implements  and 
domestic  utensils  of  the  aborigines  of  America,  Alaska,  and  Polynesia.  At  the 
W.  end  are  2  elegant  specimens  of  taxidermy,  being  lai^ge  groups  of  brilliantly 
coloi  ed  birds.  The  wall-cases  contain  fish-casts  and  birds ;  and  the  centre  of  the 
hall  is  occupied  by  shells,  turtle-cases,  and  curiosities  from  the  Indian  tribes. 
On  the  S.  side  of  thi°  section  of  the  hall  are  ethnological  collections  in  great 
variety;  while  the  gaileries  also  contain  Indian,  Alaskan,  and  Aleut  curiosities, 
weapons^  and  apparel,  with  Egyptian  and  Peruvian  mummies  at  the  end.  la  the 
S.  W.  gallery  are  Australasian,  Polynesian,  and  African  curiosities,  and  fine  or- 
nithological specimens  are  found  in  this  department.  In  the  E.  half  of  the  hall  are 
large  carnivorous  animals,  birds,  shells,  skeletons,  eggs,  and  other  collections  in 
natural  history,  with  minerals,  fish,  and  serpents  in  the  galleries.  A  cloister 
leads  from  the  E.  end  to  the  house  of  Prof.  Henry.  From  the  centre  of  the  hall 
a  passage  leads  to  the  3.  Vestibule,  which  contains  a  tablet  from  the  temple  of 
Miltiades  at  Marathon,  a  collection  of  Central-American  idols  from  Nicaragua, 
a  huge  plank  of  red-wood  from  California,  and  the  mausoleum  of  the  Emperor 
Alexander  Severus  (l>rought  ftx>m  Syria  by  the  frigat«  Constitution).  The  Gk>t.hlo 
Hall  is  a  small  but  beautiful  specimen  of  Gothic  architecture,  with  a  clere-stury 
and  groined  roof  supported  by  slender  columns.  On  the  r.  side  are  cases  con- 
taining costumes  and  weapons  of  the  Indians  and  Esquimaux,  and  from  ilie 
pillars  depend  portraits  of  Indian  chiefs.  On  the  I.  side  of  the  hall  are  cases 
filled  with  the  rich  and  quaint  products  of  China,  Siam,  and  Japan,  including 
costly  Persian  shawls  and  robes,  carpets,  weapons,  china,  furniture,  and  other 
presents  sent  by  those  governments  to  the  Presidents  of  the  U.  S.  The  pearl- 
work  from  Siara  is  noticeable  for  its  beauty,  and  the  Persian  and  Arabic  goods 
are  curious.    In  the  centre  of  the  hall  are  cases  displaying  medals  given  to  the 


WASHINGTON. 


E(mU69.      433 


8  varieties 
nnnamon- 
mperatnre 
>ns  of  the 
exico,  the 

the  most 
s  supplied 
rL;;  other 

rare  and 
^.  of  the 

buildings 
rtment  of 
[ue,  archi- 
:own  hue. 
lich  is  the 
the  octag- 
t  conspic- 
r  is  160  ft. 
the  secre- 
gant  little 
le  chapeL 
]g.   Many 


aining  the 
iments  and 
ia.  At  the 
brilliantly 
ntre  of  the 
ian  tribes. 

15  in  ^at 
curiosities, 
id.  la  the 
id  fine  or^ 
the  hall  are 
lections  in 
A  cloister 
of  the  hall 

temple  of 
Nicaragtia, 
e  Emperor 

16  €k>thio 
clere-story 
cases  con- 
.  from  ilie 

are  cases 

including 

and  other 

The  pearl- 

abio  goods 

.veu  to  the 


offlcen  of  the  U.  S.  A.,  Burmese  and  Siamese  MSS.,  Chinese  paper-money,  JajH 
anese  MS8.,  D&vy  Crockett's  tomahawk,  Capt.  Cook's  razor,  locks  of  hair  of  the 
tirst  14  Presidents  of  the  U.  8.,  a  bolt  to  which  Columbus  was  chained,  the  great 
seal  of  the  Republic,  treaties  with  the  chief  powers  of  Europe  (including  Turkey 
and  Russia,  in  their  own  languages),  the  treaty  of  alliance  witli  France  in  1778. 
In  the  next  case  are  ethnoloorical  collections  from  the  drift,  shell,  stone,  and  other 
early  epochs,  including  models  of  the  lake-dwellers'  house  near  Zurich,  ancient 
remains  firom  Dordogne,  Patagonian  curiosities,  a  model  of  Stonehenge,  and  relics 
of  the  old  Polar  explorations.  At  the  E.  end  of  this  hall  is  Rembrandt  Peale's 
portrait  of  Washington  (also  a  curious  old  painting  of  the  Moslftm  attack  on  Con- 
stantinople); and  at  the  W.  end  is  a  fine  portrait  of  Quizot,  by  Healy. 

The  *  iVest  Hall  is  entered  beyond  the  Gothic  Hall,  and  is  a  beautiful  chamber 
with  groined  roof,  round -arched  windows,  and  a  deep  apse.  It  was  occupied  for 
many  years  by  the  great  library  of  the  Institution,  which  was  removed  to  the 
Capitol  after  the  Are.  In  the  centre  is.  the  celebrated  Irvrin-Ainsa  meteorite^  a 
ragged  metallic  ring  weighing  1,400  pounds,  wliich  fell  from  the  heavens  upon 
Arizona.  The  Couch  meteorite,  fossil  woods,  etalactites,  cinnabar,  and  otlier  curi- 
osities SLve  found  here  ;  also  a  mass  of  native  copper  ttom  Ontonagon,  near  Lake 
Superior.  This  remarkable  piece  of  ore  was  formerly  used  by  the  Indians  as  a 
sacrificial  altar,  as  described  by  Father  Ciiarlevoix.  It  cost  the  U.  S.  govern- 
ment $5,654.  On  the  E.  side  of  the  hall  are  the  ore  and  metallurgical  collec- 
tions arranged  in  cases  and  with  their  myriads  of  specimens  ('arefully  classified. 
On  the  H.  side  is  the  mineralogical  collection ;  also  the  Polaris  Collection,  gathered 
on  the  voyage  of  the  Polaris  in  1870  ~  73.  The  W.  wall  is  occupied  by  a  series  of 
lithological  specimens.  In  and  near  the  apsidal  projection  are  numerous  lai^ 
photographs  of  scenery  in  the  for  West ;  also  a  painting  of  Columbus  before  the 
Council  at  Salamanca.  The  Kthnologlcal  Hall  is  a  spacious  apartment  over 
the  Main  HaU,  which  has  buc  recently  been  refitted  from  the  fire  of  1865.  In  the 
centre  are  casts  of  numerous  ancient  species  of  animals,  including  a  megatherium, 
glyptodon,  and  other;. 

The  Smithsonian  Grounds  (52J  acres)  are  very  attractive,  and  wiere 
laid  out  by  Downing,  the  eminant  landscape-gardener,  to  whose  memory 
the  American  Pomological  Society  has  erected  a  rich  vase  of  Italian  mar- 
ble, 4  ft.  high  and  well  adorned.  It  is  E.  of  the  Institution  Building, 
and  was  designed  by  Calvert  Vaux.  E.  of  the  Institution  and  near  6th 
St.  is  the  Armory,  a  long  imoccupied  building  designed  for  military 
uses. 

James  SMrrHsoN,  a  natunu  pon  of  the  Duke  of  Northumberland,  graduated  at 
Oxford  in  1786.  Ho  was  weil  provided  fsr  by  his  father,  and  led  a  quiet  and 
studious  lifo,  much  of  whvh  was  spent  on.  the  Continent,  where  (At  Genoa)  he 
died.  His  favorite  pursues  was  chemistry,  on  which  he  wrote  several  articles  for 
the  Royal  Society,  He  never  visited  America,  and  knew  no  one  here,  yet,  for 
reasons  which  have  not  yet  been  "cvealed,  he  left  his  whole  estate  "  To  the  U.  8. 
of  America,  to  found  %t  Washington,  imder  the  name  of  the  Smithsonian  Institu- 
tion, an  establishmeut  for  the  increase  and  diffusion  of  knowledge  among  men." 
The  sum  given  an*uunted  to  $515,000,  which  was  invested  in  Arkansas  bonds  and 
was  lost  when  tiiat  State  repudiated,  but  the  money  was  supplied  firom  the  na* 
tional  treasurr.  The  building  was  erected  by  the  interest-money  which  accrued 
during  the  long  preliminai7  delays.  Great  contention  arose  in  Congress  as  to  the 
methods  of  "dfiffusing  knowledge  "  ;  but  a  library,  museum,  and  art-gallery  were 
established,  and  the  Smithsonian  Contributions  have  given  much  scientiflc  and 
ethnological  information  to  those  who  care  for  it. 

The  ^'D^partment  of  Agricaltnre  (open  from  9  to  3)  is  situated  ou 
the  Mall  between  the  Smithsonian  Institution  and  the  Washington  Monu- 
ment (at  the  foot  of  13th  St.).    It  is  a  fine  brick  building  in  Renaissance 
architecture,  170  ft.  long,  with  3  stories  and  a  Mansard  roof,  and  is  con- 
19  BB 


t 


434     Rf'vut  69. 


WASHINGTON. 


structed  of  pressed  brick  vrith  brown-stone  and  bronze  trimmingt.  Hie 
lower  corridors  are  flanked  by  prettily  frescoed  oflSces,  and  lead  (on  the 
r. )  to  the  library  of  the  department,  which  contains  a  large  collection  of 
agricultural  treatises.  A  double  stairway  leads  up  to  the  Museum  of  Agri- 
culture,  a  hall  102  ft.  long  and  52  ft.  wide,  neatly  frescoed  and  bearing 
the  arms  of  the  37  States. 

The  cases  contain  apecimaxin  of  the  grains,  Brasses,  and  l\brUo  producte  of  ilie 
BepubUe ;  the  varieties  of  woods ;  sUlc  in  all  stages  of  its  foim ) tion ;  foreign 
grains ;  Fayal  aloe-laces ;  diu.t'H,  dyes,  starches,  and  sugur :  piaetBr  models  of 
American  fruits  ;  domestic  poultry  ;  birds  and  anitnals  in  which  far.'iiejp  nre  la 
terested,  etc.  The  top  of  the  table  near  the  cent  r«  of  tlto  hail  is  insdti  i'iron?.  i 
slab  of  California  red-wood  12  it.  long  and  7^  it  wide.  The  Entomological  Museum 
is  entered  W.  of  the  hall,  and  (.-ontains  a  great  number  of  iusecti  and  of  works  on 
entomology.  The  Herbarium  la  above  the  Museum  (E.  end,  3d  atory),  and  has 
26,000  varieties  of  plants.  The  Dt^partment  •  )'  Agriculture  was  founded  in  1862, 
and  distributes  1,200,000  paclcnges  of  seeds  annually,  besides  2SO,000  annua!  re- 
jports,  gi-eat  numliers  of  monthly  reports,  and  tliousatids  of  bulbs  and  pluuts.  Ihe 
i'lant-Houaes  are  W.  and  S.  of  the  iaair>  building  aad  have  mi.  aggregate  length  of  470 
ft.  They  are  of  iroa  and  glass  (costing  $75,000)  in  graceful  curvef^  im(r.v..  and  con- 
tain a  grapery  (S.  wing),  an  oranger:^',  and  a  central  pavilion  for  palms,  ^.u:  nappies, 
smd  other  trofucai  products.  The  ♦  Flower  Gardens  uve  i«  lYont  of  the  main  build- 
ing, and  tLTn  Hiiorned  with  statuar}',  varies,  and  terraces.  The  display  of  floral  splen- 
dor here  dui'.'ug  tht^  3i.>ringtin!'^  and  summer  is  worthy  of  a  long  Journey  to  see. 
The  Arbiratum  in  to  tito  N. ;  aud  to  the  S.  are  the  extensive  Experimental  Gardens. 

Tlie  'Washiogtoii  Monument  is  at  the  W.  end  of  the  Mall,  beyond 
14th  St.,  and  uverlooking  the  Potomac  River.  It  is  an  enormous  and 
costly  work,  but  from  its  unfinished  and  disproportionate  condition  is 
rather  a  blemish  than  an  ornament  to  the  city. .  It  in  174  ft.  high  and  81 
ft.  square  at  the  base,  founded  on  a  ma.ss  of  dark  gneiss,  and  with  the 
supei-structure  of  white  Maryland  marble  in  large  blocks.  In  the  low 
wooden  building  to  the  E.  is  a  collection  of  many  score  of  finely  carved 
and  ornamental  stones  sent  by  different  governments.  States,  and  societies 
to  adorn  the  interior  of  the  monument.  Some  of  the  American  blocks 
are  remarkable  for  their  elaborate  carving,  especially  those  of  the  fire  de- 
partments aud  Northern  societies.  Michigan  has  sent  a  block  of  copper 
weighing  over  a  ton;  and  the  various  States  have  sent  fine  local  stones. 
Japan,  China,  Switzerland,  the  Hanseatic  Cities,  £gypt,  Greece,  and  other 
foreign  states  have  sent  memorial  stones.  The  block  sent  by  the  Sultan 
of  Turkey  is  covered  with  delicate  Arabic  inscriptions ;  the  Commune  of 
Paros  (Greek  archipelago)  has  sent  a  block  of  pure  Parian  marble;  Naxos 
contributes  another;  there  are  marbles  from  ancient  temples  along  the 
Mediterranean  shores ;  and  lava  from  Mount  Vesuvius. 

The  monument  was  founded  in  1848,  and  was  designed  to  be  completed  as  an 
obelisk  600  ft.  high,  with  its  base  surrounded  by  a  superb  rotunda  250  ft.  in  di- 
ameter and  100  ft.  high,  encircled  by  80  titanic  columns,  adorned  by  scores  of 
statues  of  eminent  Americans,  historic  bas-reliefs,  insignia 'of  the  States,  and  con- 
taining the  tomb  of  Washington.  It  is  now  a  matter  of  doubt  whether  the  monu- 
ment will  be  completed  (for  which  $  1,200,000  are  necessary),  or  will  be  demolished 
and  made  into  a  grand  triumphal  arch. 

8.  of  the  monument  is  the  Government  Propagating  Garden^  covering  8  acre? 
with  its  forcing-houses  and  flower-beds.  It  presents  a  brilliant  scene  when  the 
flowers  are  in  bloom,  and  has  a  pleasant  outlook  on  the  Fotomao. 


WASHINGTON. 


XouU  69.      435 


s,  i-uiiapples, 


Penniylyaiiia  ATenne,  in  that  part  of  its  course  in  which  it  runs  W.  N. 
W.  from  the  Capitol  to  the  Treasury,  is  the  most  busy  and  attractive  street 
in  the  city.  On  and  near  this  line  are  the  chief  hotels,  stores,  and  saloons, 
the  theatres  and  places  of  amusement,  and  the  trunk-line  of  the  horsb  rail- 
road. The  distance  between  the  Capitol  and  the  Treasury  i&  about  1|  M. ; 
and  the  magnificent  width  of  the  avenue  gives  it  an  imposing  appearance, 
which  is  In  undesirable  contrast  with  the  plain  buildings  on  the  sides. 
Fonr  and  a  Half  8t.  is  the  first  important  cross-street  W.  of  the  Capitol, 
and  leads  N.  by  the  Territorial  buildings  and  the  fine  building  of  the  Metro- 
politan Methodist  Church  {vfhere  the  President  attends)  to  the  old  City 
Hall)  a  handsome  (but  incomplete)  structure  of  painted  freestone  which  is 
now  occupied  by  the  U.  S.  courts.  In  front  of  its  central  Ionic  colonnade  ia 
a  Doric  column  on  which  is  an  heroic  marble  statue  of  Abraham  Lincoln, 
erected  by  the  citizens  of  Washington.  The  statue  is  not  attractive  for  its 
beauty,  but  bears  the  calm,  nigged,  and  determined  expression  of  the 
martyr-President,  and  is  looking  towards  the  Capitol.  Louisiana  Ave. 
runs  nearly  S.  W.  from  this  point,  and  affords  a  fine  vista,  extending  to 
the  Arlington  mansion,  in  Virginia.  N.  of  the  City  Hall  is  the  Judiciary 
Square.  4^  St.  runs  S.  from  Penn.  Ave.,  and  crosses  the  Bait.  &  Potomac 
B.  B.  at  Virginia  Ave.,  near  the  great  Jefferson  School^  which  accommo- 
dates 1,200  pupils.  Farther  down,  at  the  comer  of  6th  and  F  Sts.,  is  ^. 
Dominic* s  Church,  a  spacious  and  imposing  granite  structure  (unfinished) 
with  several  side-chiipell  It  is  the  head-quarters  of  the  Dominican  Or- 
der in  the  United  States,  and  is  intended  to  be  worthy  of  the  ancient 
power  and  wealth  of  that  brotherhood.  This  pai '  of  the  city  (bounded 
by  B  St.  N.)  and  the  canal  is  locally  known  as  "the  Island,"  and  was 
formerly  quite  insulated  by  a  canal  which  connected  the  Potomac  with 
the  Eastern  Branch,  N.  of  the  Mall,  and  was  recently  covered  over  as  a 
sewer.  The  Island  is  inhabited  for  the  most  part  by  persons  of  moderate 
means.    4^  St.  terminates  at  the  Arsenal  gate. 

The  *  Arsenal  is  situated  on  a  reservation  of  44  acres  on  Greenleaf  s 
Point,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Potomac  and  the  Eastern  Branch.  It  was 
founded  in  1803,  destroyed  by  the  British  in  1814,  rebuilt  by  Col.  Bom- 
ford,  and  during  the  Secession  War  was  the  depot  of  ammunition  and  ar- 
tillery for  the  great  Army  of  the  Potomac.  The  grounds  are  pleasantly 
laid  out,  and  command  beautiful  views  over  the  broad  river.  B.  of  the 
entrance  is  a  15-inch  Bodman  cannon,  which  was  placed  there  in  position 
to  command  the  river  early  in  the  Secession  War.  Near  the  centre  of  the 
grounds  is  an  immense  park  of  artillery,  containing  7  -  800  cannon  of  all 
sizes,  from  small  mortars  and  mountain-guns  to  the  heaviest  marine  and 
fortress  artillery.  A  fine  battery  of  brass  pieces  fronts  on  the  river;  and 
before  the  old  barracks  is  a  trophy-battery  containing  French,  British, 
Mexican,  and  Confederate  guns ;  the  fine  Blakely  cannons  sent  ttom. 


436     BouU  69, 


WASHINGTON. 


Europe  to  insturgent  South  Carolina ;  and  a  Rhode  Island  cannon  which 
was  curiously  wounded  at  the  Battle  of  Oettysburg.  The  officers'  quarters 
near  the  middle  of  the  grounds  occupy  the  site  of  the  old  U.  S.  PeniteU' 
tiary,  where  Booth  and  his  fellow-conspirators  were  buried. 


Beyond  4^  St.  Penn.  Ave.  passes  several  large  hotels  and  a  succession 
of  stores,  and  reaches  the  broad  plaza  at  the  intersection  of  Louisiana 
Ave.,  7th  St.,  and  C  St.  Here  are  the  large  new  buildings  of  the  Centre 
Xarkett  which  should  be  visited  at  early  morning  to  see  the  rich  supplies 
of  vegetables  and  fruits,  meats  and  game,  with  which  this  city  is  favored. 
It  is  claimed  that  the  Washington  markets  have  larger  supplies  and  at 
cheaper  rates  tha<h  any  city  of  the  size  in  the  Union ;  and  the  Northern 
tourist  will  be  interested  to  see  the  quaint  r.nd  ruinous  old  wagons  which 
bring  in  the  products  of  the  adjacent  Maryland  and  Virginia  counties,  and 
the  briskly  trading  negro  women  with  their  garden-truck. 

Seventh  St.  is  one  of  the  main  thoroughfares  of  the  city,  and  runs  N. 
from  the  wharves  along  the  Potomac,  passing  between  the  Smithsonian 
Institution  and  the  Armory,  and  intersecting  Penn.  Ave.,  with  the  Capitol 
in  sight  on  the  r.  and  the  Treasury  on  the  1.  It  continues  N.  throu^  a 
busy  mercantile  quarter,  and  soon  reaches  the  Post-Office. 

The  *  Oeneral  Fost-Offioe  is  between  7th  and  8th,  E  and  F  Sts.,  just 
S.  of  the  Patent-Office.  It  was  built  between  1839  and  1865,  and  cost 
$  1,700,000.  It  is  the  finest  example  in  America  of  the  Italian  palatial 
architecture,  and  is  a  quadrangle  of  marble  300  x  204  ft.  in  area,  enclosing 
an  inner  court-yard.  The  elegant  colonnades  above  the  rustic  basement 
are  of  Carrara  marble.  The  main  front  is  on  E  St.,  between  Doric  col- 
umns ;  and  the  City  Post-Office  fronts  on  F  St.  The  Dead-Letter  Office 
contains  a  large  collection  of  c^osities.from  the  mail-bags,  and  is  on  the 
F  St.  front  (2d  story). 

The  *  *  Patent-Office  is  situated  between  7th  and  9th,  F  and  H  Sts., 
and  was  built  between  1849  and  1864  at  a  cost  of  $  2,700,000.  The  style 
is  the  massive  severity  and  chaste  simplicity  of  the  earlier  classic  art; 
and  the  *F  St.  portico  is  a  majestic  work  of  art,  consisting  of  16 
immense  Doric  columns,  approached  by  a  long  stairway,  and  upholding 
a  classic  pediment.  The  other  3  fronts  of  the  building  are  adorned  by 
colonnades.  The  F  St.  front  is  of  whitened  sandstone;  the  others  are  of 
fine  ]Vf!Eiryland  marble.  The  massive  strength  of  the  interior  will  attract 
the  attention ;  and  the  4  sides  enclose  a  spacious  court-yai:4>  on  which  the 
fronts  are  of  granite.  The  inventive  genius  of  the  Americans  is  fully 
displayed  here,  amid  over  100,000  models,  in  whose  dontemplation  it  is 
said  that  inventors  sometimes  grow  crazy.  During  the  last  250  years 
Great  Britain  has  issued  40,000  patents,  but  between  1840  and  1870  the 
United  States  issued  over  50,000  (whose  fees  amounted  to  $2,500,000). 


WASHINGTON. 


JtouU  69.      437 


the  *Model-Soomi  are  open  daOy  from  9  a.  m.  tintil  8  P.  M.,  and 

contain  models  of  all  the  patents  issued  in  the  United  States  since  1836, 

making  a  bewildering  maze  of  complicated  and  interesting  mechanism. 

They  are  arranged  in  cases,  on  which  are  cards  describing  the  contents. 

The  *  S.  Hall  is  a  marvellous  room,  242  ft.  long,  63  ft.  wide,  and  30  ft. 

high,  upheld  by  36  Doric  columns,  and  frescoed  brilliantly  in  the  Pom- 

peian  manner.    Many  of  its  curiosities  were  removed  to  the  Centennial 

Exposition. 

Case  23,  near  the  door,  containH  Washington's  tents  and  camp-equipagr;,  — 
his  blankets,  camp-chesty  and  antique  furniture:  the  model  of  a  barge  inveuied 
by  Abraham  Lint^oln ;  an  arabesque  ornamentea  gun,  presented  to  Jefferson  by 
the  Emperor  of  Morocco ;  the  treasure-chest  of  the  Continental  Army ;  the  com- 
mission  of  Washington;  and  the  *  Declaration  of  Independence.  Case  94 
contains  13  sclmeters  given  by  the  Bey  of  Egypt  to  U.  S.  naval  offlcera ;  the 
china  sets  given  to  Washington  by  the  Society  of  the  Cincinnati,  and  to  Mrs. 
Washington  by  Lafayette ;  the  uniforms  of  Washington  and  Jacksotij  the  arms 
of  the  Washington  family ;  the  coat  of  Oen  Paez  (Venezuela);  De  Kalb's  war- 
saddle;  the  first  American  flag  raised  by  loyal  Southerners  after  the  war;  the 
diamond-hilted  sabre  given  to  Com.  Biddle  by  the  Viceroy  of  Egypt :  the  war- 
sword  of  Washington ;  etc.  On  the  r.  of  the  entrance  is  Franklin's  old  printing- 
press  ;  and  on  the  1.  are  the  models  of  the  Washington  Monimient  and  of  Ferich  • 
statue  of  Washington. 

The  W.  Hall  is  271  ft.  long ;  the  N.  Hall  is  266  ft.  long,  with  a  re- 
markable ceiling;  and  the  E.  HaU  is  271  ft  long,  with  a  groined  roof 
resting  on  marble  piers  and  pilasters.  These  spacious  apartments  are 
filled  with  immense  numbers  of  models  (often  of  fine  and  'delicate  work- 
manship), representing  every  department  of  mechanical  art,  from  an  im- 
proved knitting-needle  to  a  floating  battery  or  line-of-battle  ship. 

Beyond  the  Post  and  Patent  Offices,  7th  St.  runs  out  through  a  mer- 
cantile district,  and  grows  less  and  less  interesting  until  it  reaches  the 
base  of  the  heights  N.  of  Washington,  and  near  the  Howard  University. 


Looking  up  8th  St.,  to  the  r.  from  Penn.  Ave.,  the  classic  front  of  the 
Patent-Office  is  icen.  9th  St.  leads  (in  one  square)  to  the  lofty  and  ornate 
sandstone  building  of  the  Yaimg  Men* a  Christian  Association.  On  the 
second  floor  is  a  library  of  17,000  volumes,  a  reading-room  containing  the 
principal  newspapers  and  magazines,  and  parlors  for  social  meetings.  A 
ready  welcome  is  given  to  strangers.  On  the  next  floor  is  Lincoln.  Holly 
the  finest  lecture-hall  in  Washington,  with  frescoed  walls  and  amphi- 
theatrical  seats.  In  the  Association  chapel  religious  meetings  are  held  at 
noon  and  at  6  p.  m.  daily.  At  the  comer  of  9th  and  F  Sts.  (opposite  the 
Patent-Office)  is  the  Masonic  Temple^  a  fine  building  of  granite  and  sand- 
stone, embellished  with  symbolic  carvings  and  containing  a  fine  public 
hall,  which  is  much  used  for  balls  and  sociables. 

The  Army  Medical  Mnsenm  (open  daily,  9-  3)  is  on  10th  St.  W.,  be- 
tween E.  and  F  Sts.  On  the  first  floor  is  the  Surgeon- General's  Office, 
with  16,000  volumes  of  hospital  records,  and  the  names  of  270,000  soldiers 
who  died  in  the  hospitals,  and  210,000  who  were  dischaiged  as  disablcHl. 


\\\ 


m 


m 


438     Route  69, 


WASHINGTON. 


The  MtiMum  proper  fa  on  the  third  floor,  and  is  the  finest  and  most  eomplet* 
of  the  kind  in  the  world.  It  contains  10,000  specimens  (900  pathological  and 
2,800  microscopic  preparations),  illustrating  all  manner  of  wounds  and  diseases. 
The  Anatomical  Section  contains  about  1,000  human  skulls,  mostly  of  Indians ; 
and  the  Section  of  Comparative  Anatomy  contains  1,000  skeletons  of  American 
mammalia.  This  building  was  formerly  used  as  Ford's  Theatre,  and  within  its 
walls,  April  19,  1865,  Prebident  Lincoln  was  assassinated  by  John  Wilkes  Etooth. 
After  the  fatal  shot  Mr.  Lincoln  was  carried  to  the  house  across  the  street  (No. 
616),  where  he  died  during  the  night.  The  theatre  was  closed  by  the  government, 
•nd  was  afterwards  purchased  and  applied  to  its  present  use. 

Advancing  along  Penn.  Ave.  to  10th  St.,  beyond  the  fine  iron  front  of 
the  Chronicle  ofiice,  the  Smithsonian  Institution  is  seen  to  the  1.,  and  at 
the  foot  of  13th  St.  (1.)  is  the  Department  of  Agriculture.  Passing  the 
imposing  building  of  the  National  Republican^  the  avenue  intersects 
Fourteenth  St.,  near  the  National  Theatre  and  Willard's  Hotel.  This 
important  street  begins  at  the  S.  at  the  Long  Bridge,  a  shabby  structure 
about  1  M.  long  (i>artly  causeway),  which  crosses  the  Potomac  River. 
This  bridge  was  strongly  fortified  during  the  Secession  War,  and  was  the 
chief  line  of  communication  between  the  Army  of  the  Potomae  and  its 
supply-depots.  Passing  thence  to  the  N.,  14th  St.  runs  between  the 
Department  of  Agriculture  and  the  Washington  Monument,  intersects 
*Penn.  Ave.,  passes  Newspaper  Bow  (the  h'^ad-quarters  of  the  Washing- 
ton correspondents),  crosses  F  St.,  with  the  Treasury  on  the  1.,  gives 
glimpses  of  the  Foundry  (Meth.),  Epiphany  (Epis.),  and  N.  Y.  Ave.  Pres- 
byterian churches  on  the  r. ;  and  traverses  a  district  of  fine  residences. 
Across  Franklin  Square  the  fine  building  of  the  Franklin  School  is  seen ; 
and  a  short  distance  beyond,  the  broad  Massachusetts  Ave.  crosses  the 
street,  running  N.  W.  to  the  *  statue  of  Gen.  Scott.  This  magnificent 
work  was  completed  in  1874  at  a  cost  of  $  20,000,  and  was  cast  (in  Phila- 
delphia) from  Mexican  cannon  captured  by  Scott.  It  is  colossal  in  dimen- 
sions, and  represents  Scott  sitting  upon  his  horse  and  overlooking  the 
field.  The  design  was  by  H.  K.  Brown,  of  New  York.  The  pedestal  is 
composed  of  5  enormous  blocks  of  Cane  Ann  granite,  two  of  which  weigh 
respectively  119  tons  and  84  tons,  and  are  the  largest  quarried  stones  in 
the  world  (except  those  in  the'  ancient  walls  of  Jerusalem  and  Baalbek). 
Near  this  point  is  the  Lmiise  Home,  an  elegant  building  which  was  erected 
by  Mr.  Corcoran  for  a  home  for  impoverished  old  ladies  of  culture  and 
social  standing.  At  S  St.,  14th  St.  passes  the  Protestant  Orphan  Asylum, 
a  roomy  and  comfortable  building  of  red  brick,  and  soon  afterward 
reaches  the  city  limits,  near  the  Columbian  University.  This  institu- 
tion is  under  the  auspices  of  the  Baptist  Church,  and  has  11  instructors 
and  over  400  students,  with  a  famous  law  department  (on  Judiciary 
Square)  with  5  instructors  and  160  students,  and  a  medical  college  (H  St., 
near  14th)  with  10  instructors  and  70  students.  The  college  buildings 
occupy  the  crest  of  Meridian  Hil!,  which  commands  fine  views  of  the  city 
and  the  river.    Wayland  Seminary  (Baptist)  is  on  this  hill. 


WASHINGTON. 


Route  69.      439 


The  *  'Treuury  I)ep«rtmeiit  >  at  the  corner  of  Penn.  Ave.  and  15th 
St.  And  remains  open  to  visitors  from  9  a.  m.  to  2  p.  if.  It  is  the  finest 
building  for  the  purpose  in  the  world,  and  is  constructed  in  massive  and 
imposing  Ionic  architecture.  The  K  front  was  built  in  1836,  presenting 
an  unbroken  line  (342  ft.  long)  of  30  Ionic  columns,  and  is  of  painted 
sandstone.  The  remainder  of  the  building  is  of  gray  granite  from  the 
coast  of  Maine,  and  is  of  the  most  substantial  and  enduring  character. 
The  dimensions  (over  all)  are  582  ft.  long  by  300  ft.  wide,  with  2  enclosed 
court-yards,  and  the  cost  has  been  about  $  6,000,000.  The  W.  front  has 
side  porticos  and  a  grand  central  entrance  fronted  by  8  columns,  and  ap> 
proached  by  broad  granite  stairways.  The  immense  dze  of  the  mono- 
liths  of  the  columns  and  capstones  (the  latter  18  x  17  ft.  in  area)  are 
worthy  of  note,  and  the  columns  are  said  to  be  the  largest  of  the  kind  in 
the  world  (weighing  33  tons).  The  N.  and  S.  fronts  are  alike,  and  are 
adorned  by  imposing  porticos.  The  N.  front  is  below  the  level  of  the 
Avenue,  and  looks  out  on  a  garden  which  is  embellished  by  a  fountain  ; 
and  the  S.  front  is  highly  elevated  and  looks  across  a  broad  platform 
which  is  to  be  adorned  with  statuary,  and  commands  a  pleasant  view 
over  the  Potomac  River.  Within  the  building  are  195  rooms,  with  broad 
corridors  adorned  with  colored  marbles.  The  finest  apartment  is  the 
Cash  Room,  which  extends  through  two  stories,  is  lined  with  rich  marble, 
—  red  and  white  for  the  pavement.  Sienna,  Bardiglio,  and  Pyrenean  for  the 
panels,  black  and  dove-colored  Vermont,  white  Tennessee  and  Can-ara,  and 
veined  marbles  for  the  pilasters  and  stylobates.  The  coffered  ceiling  ia 
enriched  by  elaborate  mouldings,  and  is  lightly  gilded.  The  Oold  Room, 
or  Treasury  vaults,  may  be  seen  by  permit  from  the  Treasurer.  There  is 
usually  about  $  10,000,000  in  gold  coin  in  these  vaults,  defended  by  thick 
walls  of  chilled  iron  and  steel.  The  reserve  vaults  are  not  accessible;  and 
the  bond  vault  is  near  the  Gold  Room.  The  operations  of  counting  the 
currency,  examining  the  mutilated  bills,  etc,,  may  be  seen  from  the  cor- 
ridors. Great  numbers  of  ladies  are  engaged  in  clerical  duties  in  the 
building.  The  Freedmen's  Savings  and  Trust  Company  has  a  stately 
brownstone  building  N.  of  the  Treasury,  in  whose  upper  stories. are  the 
offices  of  the  Department  of  Justice. 

The  *  Ezeoutiye  Mansion  (popularly  known  as  the  White  House)  is 
li  M.  W.  of  the  Capitol,  and  fronts  on  Penn.  Ave.  near  16th  St.  It  was 
modelled  after  the  palace  of  the  Duke  of  Leinster,  and  is  170  ft.  long  by 
86  ft.  deep.  The  material  is  freestone  (painted  white),  and  the  portico  to 
the  N.  is  of  considerable  depth  (upheld  by  Ionic  columns).  Toward  the 
Potomac  is  a  semicircular  portico  with  an  Ionic  colonnade.  The  chief  at- 
traction within  the  mansion  is  the  ♦  East  Room  (open  daily  from  9  to  3), 
a  fine  boll  80  ft.  long  and  40  ft.  wide,  adorned  in  classic  style  and  richly 
famished.    In  and  near  the  vestibule  are  portraits  of  Presidents  Joho^, 


440     JtouU  69, 


WASHINGTON. 


Adams,  Van  Bureii,  Tyler,  Polk,  Fillmore,  Pierce,  and  Lincoln  {  also 
Btuart's  portrait  of  Washington.  The  Blue,  Red,  and  On  Rooiha  are 
also  on  this  floor,  and  ore  sumptuously  decorated.  The  Executive  Offic€ 
and  the  Cabinet  Room,  with  the  private  apartments  of  the  faniily,  an-e  on 
the  second  floor.  W.  of  the  mansion  are  the  spacious  conservatories  ;  on 
the  S.  is  the  pleasant  park  where  the  Marine  Band  plays  on  Saturday 
aftenioons  during  the  summer  season.  This  park  iiji  bordered  by  the 
graceful  curves  of  Executive  Ave.  The  President's  Mansion  was  founded 
in  1792 ;  first  occupied  by  John  Adams,  in  1800  ;  destroyed  by  the  Brit- 
ish by  fire  and  cannonade,  in  1814  ;  and  rebuilt  after  1818. 

Lafayette  Square  is  N.  of  the  White  House,  and  is  the  most  beautiful 
park  in  the  city,  being  filled  with  fine  shrubbery  and  trees,  and  trav- 
erse<l  by  pleasant  paths.  It  is  adorned  with  a  colossal  equestrian  *  statue 
of  Gen.  Andrew  Jackson,  by  whose  pedestal  are  4  trophy-cannon.  The 
statue  weighs  16  tons,  and  was  cast  from  SpanisJi  cannon  taken  by  Qen. 
Jackson  at  Pensacola.  It  was  designed  by  Clark  Mills,  and  is  remarkable 
for  its  ingenious  balancing,  which  is  effected  by  making  the  flanks  and 
tail  of  the  horse  of  solid  metal.  Near  the  sides  of  the  park  are  2  rich 
bronze  vases,  7  ft.  high,  which  were  cast  at  the  Navy  Yard  from  antique 
models.  N.  of  the  Square  is  the  aristocratic  old  Episcopal  Church  of  St. 
John  (attended  by  Presidents  Madison,  Monroe,  and  Jackson) ;  and  the 
Catholic  Cliurch  of  St.  Matthew  is  to  the  E.  Vermont  Ave.  leads  N.  N.  E. 
from  the  Square,  passing  (on  the  .first  1.  comer,  fronting  the  Square)  the 
former  home  of  Senator  Sumner,  also  the  Arlington  Hotel,  and  Scott 
Square.  Connecticut  Ave.  runs  N.  N.  W.  from  the  Square  to  the  new 
and  fashionable  N.  W.  quarter  of  the  city,  and  is  traversed  by  horse-cars. 
The  new  British  Legation  building  has  been  erected  on  this  avenue  ;  and 
on  the  C  St.  Circle  is  the  stately  mansion  of  Senator  Stewart.  At  the 
comer  of  Conn.  Ave.  and  I  St.  is  Farragitt  Square,  which  is  soon  to  be 
adomed  with  a  statue  of  Admiral  Farragut  (see  page  57). 

The  *  Corcoran  Gallery  of  Art  is  at  the  comer  of  Penn.  Ave.  and  17th 
St.,  and  is  open  daily  from  10  o'clock  until  dusk  (4  p.  m.  in  winter;  6 
P.  M.  in  summer).  On  Tues.,  Thurs.,  and  Sat.  it  is  free;  on  the  other  8 
days  a  fee  of  25c.  is  takbn.  The  building  is  of  brick  and  brownstone,  in 
pure  Renaissance  architecture,  and  is  embellished  with  symbolic  carvings 
and  the  inscription  "  Dedicated  to  Art."  It  is  one  of  the  finest  art-build- 
ings in  the  world,  and  was  constmcted  for  the  purpose  (thoroughly 
fire-proof)  by  Mr.  W.  W.  Corcoran,  a  wealthy  and  beneficent  banker  of 
Washington.  It  was  unfinished  at  the  outbreak  of  the  Secession  War, 
and  was  seized  and  occupied  during  the  war  for  the  Quartermaster- 
General's  oflice.  In  1870  the  renovated  building  was  deeded  by  Mr.  Cor- 
coran to  trustees  who  should  administer  it  in  the  best  interests  of  the 
4>eople. 


WASHINGTON. 


Jtouueo.   441 


icoln  ;  also 
Pootnui  are 
:utive  OffiM 
itly,  an-e  on 
atories  ;  on 
n  Satunlay 
red  by  the 
vas  founded 
by  the  Brit- 

Bt  beautiful 
8,  and  trav- 
ian  *  statue 
nnon.  The 
con  by  Oen. 
remarkable 
)  flanks  and 
k  are  2  rich 
rom  antique 
lUrch  of  St. 
i);  and  the 
ids  N.  N.  E. 
Square)  the 
,  and  Scott 
to  the  new 
horse-cars, 
irenue  ;  and 
rt.  At  the 
soon  to  be 

e.  and  17th 
n  winter;  6 
the  other  8 
wnstone,  in 
lie  carvings 
it  art-build- 
thoroughly 
;  backer  of 
ission  War, 
•rterraaster- 
)y  Mr.  Cor- 
rests  of  the 


Tlnlton  an  reeoniiMiidcd  to  buy  th«  etinitor*ii  ratalofniis  (28e.),  which  h  y*Tj  ftiU 
hi  ItM  de^rrlptionM.    Tb«  Hull  of  Hculpturc  Ir  flilmi  with  cwtH  of  tht  mnnter- 

f)ieceii  of  nnttqulty.  A  r«rtlon  of  thefrlcai'  of  the  Parthenon  (kflfr  Phldlw),  180  (I. 
nnir,  rntm  around  under  the  eorntre.  Amonff  the  ranta  are  the  DiaeoKolua;  9, 
YciiuaorMUo;  lO.YeDundl  Mcdirl ;  11,  Capltoilne  VenuJi ;  12,  Ariadne  Deaerted; 
Kutcrpe,  Diana,  Kroa,  Abundance,  Minenrn,  Oemtanicun,  Antinoua,  the  Dying 
OlatltHtor,  the  liaoroon,  Nero,  AJnx,  Sllenua,  Venua  CaillpyRoa,  Achillea  Borcheae, 
Men-ury,  Venua,  Crouching  Venua,  Venua  at  the  Hath,  Aaculapiua,  Drmontbenea, 
.liilia,  Arlxtidea,  Fophoclrw,  Sorratca,  Homer,  .Tupltir,  PolyhymnlA,  Apollo,  Centaur, 
Venna  Anadyoniene,  Apollo  Frlvidere  (AH\  Juno,  Mcleager,  Menelaua.  Jaaon,  Oly- 
tie,  I rla,  Trajan,  and  many  othora.  8lde  <ilRll«sry.  —  Venua  Victrii,  after  Olb« 
son  ;  Vonua,  after  ('anovn,  Clytle,  after  Kinvhart ;  Venua  Vlctrix,  after  Thorwald- 
lien.  The  It«nHls««nr«  tinllery  contain)*  copiea  of  the  Raptiatery  Doora  of 
Florence ;  the  Slavca,  David,  and  Day  and  Night, after  Michael  Angelo ;  and  18  baa- 
relii^fH  by  i)«'nn  Qoiijon. 

The  Hnll  of  Bronzea  containa  a  pair  of  R^Trea  raaea ;  a  *aeriea  of  remarkably 
delicate  copiea  nf  the  llildepheiui  Treanurea  (exquisite  nilver  plate,  dug  up  at  liilde- 
aheim,  and  rtippowed  to  have  belonged  to  the  Roman  Concnl  VnruH),  In  80  pierea  ;  8 
pierea  of  Faience  ware  ;  atatuette  of  F>ho,  Mmtl ;  l>u*t  of  Humboldt,  Rnvrk ;  aeTeral 
THiiea  of  majolica  and  Sevrea  porcclnin ;  114  of  Barye'a  exquisite  and  renowned 
*bTOniea(the  finest  collection  in  Aniorica) ;  90  electrotype  reproductiona  of  inedl« 
Bpval  European  armor,  wcnpona,  plate,  omamenta,  baa-reliefa,  ahrinea,  ete. ;  antiqu* 
flre-doga ;  atatuettea,  after  John  of  Bologna  and  Barye'a  fbmoua  group  of  Theaeua 
SlayinK  the  Centaur 

Mnlii  Gallery  (on  the  second  floor,  06  x  45  ft.  in  area).  1.  Portrait  of  W. 
W.  Corcoran,  Elliott;  2,  8,  The  Departure  and  Return,  Cole ;  4,  Watcring-Plaee, 
Schrfyer;  5,  Odalicque,  St.  Pierre;  6,  Foreat-Pcene,  ihirand ;  7,  •The  Veatal, 
Leroux;  9,  DroTe  at  the  Ford,  Hart;  10,  11.  liand^capea,  Robbf ;  12,  Amaion, 
Leutze ;  14,  Paddy 'a  Marie,  TVieo/;  17,  *  Mercy's  Dream,  i/un(tn^(on  ;  18,Magdalena 
River,  Churrh;  10,  Savoyard,  CoUette ;  21,  Caeaar  Dead,  Gerome;  28,  24,  Interiors, 
Dtmamt ;  26,  Autumn  on  the  Hudson,  Doughty;  26,  Seaport,  /.  Yemet;  *27, 
Adoration  of  the  Shepherds.  R.  Metigs ;  28,  Peta.  E.  Johnson ;  80,  Fruit,  PertUi  ; 
84,  Le  Puits  qui  Parle,  A.  Vely ;  86,  The  Drought  in  Egypt,  Portaels;  40,  The  Long 
Story,  Jlfoifn<;  42,  Lost  Doga,  Von  Thoren;  46,  F&te  of  St.  John  in  Daleearlla, 
Salmson;  46,  *  Count  of  Wurtemburg  and  his  JDead  Son,  Ary  Sehtfftr ;  47,  Crom* 
well  and  Milton,  Lnttxe  ;  40,  60,  Landscapes,  Japy ;  58,  Portrait  of  John  Tylar, 
Hra/yi  64,  M.  tasteyrie,  R.  Peale;  66.  Andrew  Jackson,  Sully;  67,  John  Raa- 
dolph,  Harding;  68,  Death  of  Moses,  Cabanel;  59,  Charlotte  Corday  in  Prison, 
MuUft;  61,  Ouixot,  Healy;  62,  Henry  Clay,  Inman;  66,  Fann-House,  Morland; 
66,  In  Madeira,  Hildtbrandt;  68,  *Le  Regiment  qui  Passe,  DttaiUe;  70,  Seheven' 
ingen,  Kaemmerer ;  72,  Satyrs,  Priou ;  78,  Heir  Pvesumptive,  Boughten ;  74.  In 
Auvergne,  JBai7;  76,  Constantinople,  ZtVm.  E.  Gallery —  1,  French  Cuirassiera 
and  Bavarian  Prisoners,  DetailU.  W«  Oallenr  — 2,  Landscape,  CHgnoux;  4, 
Lenox,  Mass.,  Odi/ie;  6,  Swiss  Scene,  Se^neh;  6,  Mt.  Washington,  Kenutt;  0, 
Napoleon  I. ;  11,  Humboldt ;  18,  Caacade,  aftfr  Aehenbaeh;  16,  Battle,  V.  Breughel; 
16,  Castel  Gondolfo,  C.  P.  Cranek ;  20,  Norman's  Woe,  Lanman;  28,  Great  Falls  of 
Potomac;  24,  Italian  Moonlight,  Taverm'er;  26,  On  the  Hudson,  Kenaett;  26,  Vir- 
gin and  Child,  allriftia«</  to  Murillo;  27,  Christ  Bound.  Van  i)ycj;(?);  80,  Hugua- 
not's  Daughter :  84, 86,  Seaports,  Canaletti  (?) ;  87,  The  Trojan  Horse ;  88,  Calabrian 
Coast ;  40,  Landscape,  Inneas ;  42,  CatskiU  Creek ;  48,  Flemish  Seaport ;  46,  Dock- 
Shooting. 

The  Octason  Room  is  S.  of  the  gallery,  and  is  skilftilly  draped  and  lighted. 
It  contains  busts  of  Genevraand  *  Proserpine,  by  Powers ;  Penseroso.  Rinehart ;  The 
Veiled  Nun ;  and  Shakespeare.  In  the  centra  of  the  Octagon  is  Hiram  Powers'* 
world-renowned  *  statue  of  the  Greek  Slave.  In  the  S.  E.  Gallery  is  Rinehart's 
statue  of  Endymion ;  and  in  the  S.  W.  Gallery  is  Rinehart's  The  Sleeping  Children, 
with  a  poitrait  of  Washington  (after  Stuart). 


442     RouU  69, 


WASHINGTON. 


The  War  Department  occupies  a  plain  old  building  at  the  corner  of 
Penn.  Ave.  and  17th  St.,  and  has  a  large  force  of  clerks  employed  in  its 
spacious  halls.  There  are  many  military  curiosities  scattered  about  the 
building,  and  the  gallery  of  portraits  of  the  Secretaries  of  War  is  inter- 
esting. The  Navy  Department  is  just  S.  of  this  building,  and  is  similar 
to  it  in  general  appearance.  These  antiquated  structures  are  soon  to  be 
removed  to  give  pLce  to  the  new  and  stately  building  of  the  *  State,  War, 
and  Kayy  Departments,  which  is  now  being  erected.  This  immense 
structure  was  commenced  in  1871,  on  the  plans  of  Supervising- Architect 
Mullet,  and  carries  out  his  Italian-Renaissance  ideas,  —  the  bold  pavil- 
ions, Doric  columns,  and  lofty  Mansard  roof.  It  will  be  in  strong  con- 
trast with  the  pure  classic  architecture  for  which  the  public  buildings  of 
Washington  are  famous.  The  building  is  to  be  567  ft.  in  extreme  length, 
and  312  ft.  in  width  (including  the  pavilions  on  the  4  fronts),  and  will 
cost  $5,500,000.  The  material  is  granite  (from  Maine  for  the  lower 
courses,  and  from  Richmond,  Va.,  for  the  superstructure),  and  there  will 
be  150  rooms.  The  building  will  be  absolutely  incombustible.  The  hall 
of  the  Secretary  of  State,  the  ambassador's  saloon,  and  the  library  (30,000 
volumes),  are  superbly  furnished  and  of  noble  proportions. 

The  *  Ordnance  Museum  (open  daily,  9-  3)  is  in  Winder's  Building  (comer 
of  17th  and  F  Sts.),  wliich  is  devoted  to  government  offices.  The  Museum  is  on 
the  second  floor  of  the  W.  wing,  and  contains  models  of  field  and  fortress  artillery 
in  position ;  casemates  and  ramparts  ;  uniforms,  and  every  kind  of  military  equip- 
ments ;  shot  and  shell  of  all  calibres,  from  the  -immense  20-inch  1,000-pound  ball 
to  the  small  6-pounder  ;  grape-shot,  canister,  spherical  case,  and  all  manner  of 
prcvjectiles  ;  rockets,  bush-fire,  tourbillons,  petards  ;  cartridges,  fi'om  the  small 
pistol-calibre  up  to  the  great  bags  of  powder  for  the  20-inch  guns ;  rebel  shot  and 
shell ;  cavalry  forges  and  caissons ;  chevaux-de-frise  |  a  steel  Whitworth  gim ; 
Gatling  and  coffee-mill  guns ;  the  Egyptian  camel-artillery ;  the  carriage  of  the 
first  (rebel)  cannon  fired  during  the  Civil  War :  a  model  of  the  Rock  Island  Arse- 
nal ;  Jeff.  Davis's  rifle ;  and  a  section  of  an  oak-tree  which  was  literally  cut  down 
by  musket-balls  in  the  battle  of  Spottsylvania.  The  hall  is  draped  with  hundreds 
of  Confederate  battle-flags,  and  of  State  and  regimental  banners,  which  were 
either  taken  in  iMttle  or  in  the  great  surrenders  of  the  Southern  armies. 

The  Signal-OflBce  is  on  G  St.,  near  the  War  Department,  and  is  the 
head-quarters  of  the  Weather  Bureau,  under  Gen.  A.  J.  Myer.  The  in- 
struments in  use  here  are  of  the  most  delicate  character.  The  original 
design  of  the  Signal  Corps  was  to  transmit  intelligence  quickly  during  the 
progress  of  battles  or  military  movements,  by  means  of  signal  flags.  Since 
1870  the  corps  has  been  engaged  in  tabulating  and  reporting  in  advance 
(by  telegraph)  the  conditions  of  the  atmosphere  and  the  probabilities  of 
the  weather.  Cautionary  signals  are  displayed  at  the  chief  lake  and  ocean 
ports  if  a  storm  is  approaching  them ;  and  the  predictions  of  the  Weather 
Bureau  are  generally  verified.  The  Hydrographic  Office  is  at  the  comer 
of  18th  St.  and  N.  Y.  Ave.,  in  an  ancient  building  called  tlie  Octagon.  Its 
chief  business  is  with  charts  and  sailing  directions. 


WASfflNGTON. 


Route  69.      443 


corner  of 
ed  in  its 
tbout  the 
r  is  inter- 
is  similar 
>on  to  be 
ite,  War, 

immense 
-Architect 
old  pavil- 
trong  con- 
ildings  of 
ne  length, 
I,  and  will 
the  lower 
there  will 

The  hall 
jy  (30,000 


iing  (comer 

iscuni  is  on 

ess  artillery 

itary  eqnip- 

•pound  ball 

manner  of 

n  the  small 

)el  shot  and 

worth  gun ; 

riage  of  the 

sland  Arse- 

y  cut  down 

1  hundreds 

which  were 

ss. 

and  is  the 
The  in- 
le  original 
during  the 
ags.  Since 
in  advance 
ibilities  of 
and  ocean 
le  Weather 
the  comer 
;agon.    Its 


The  ancient  Van  Ness  mansion  is  at  the  foot  of  17th  St.  It  was  the  home  of 
David  Bums,  owner  of  the  land  on  which  a  large  part  of  the  city  is  built.  His 
daughter  Marcia  was  married  by  Gen.  Van  Ness,  of  New  York  (in  1802).  who  made 
of  this  estate  one  of  the  finest  places  in  the  country. 

Bawllns  Square  is  on  New  York  Ave. ,  near  18th  St ,  and  Is  prettily  adorned. 
Herehas  been  placed  a  statue  of  Oen.  John  A.  Rawlins,  Secretary  of  War  in  1860. 

Penn.  Ave.  passes  between  the  Corcoran  Art  Gallery  and  the  War  De- 
partment, and  deflects  to  the  r.  at  17th  St ,  passing  through  an  old  quarter 
of  the  city  to  the  Washington  Circle  (at  23d  St.),  in  which  is  an  equestrian 
♦  statue  of  Gen.  George  Washington,  by  Clark  Mills  (completed  in  1860). 
He  is  represented  as  at  the  Battle  of  Princeton,  with  his  terror-stricken 
charger  recoiling  before  the  fire  of  the  hostile  artillery. 

The  *  U.  8.  Kayal  Observatory  is  at  the  foot  of  24th  St.  W.,  and  is 
-one  of  the  chief  institutions  of  the  kind  in  the  world.  It  occupies  a  hill 
near  and  98  ft.  above  the  Potomac  ;  and  the  central  building  is  provided 
with  a  revolving  dome.  There  are  numerous  fine  instruments,  the  chief 
of  which  is  tlie  great  equatorial  telescope  (the  largest  of  the  kind  in  the 
world).  The  observatory  is  on  the  ^st  meridmn  for  astronomical  pur- 
poses in  the  U.  S.  (the  Greenwich  meridian  is  used  for  nautical  calcu- 
lations), and  is  in  latitude  38°  53'  38"  N.,  and  longitude  77"  3'  G'  W.  of 
Greenwich.  On  the  Observatory  Hill  encamped  part  of  the  army  of 
Braddock,  in  1755;  and  Washington  wished  to  have  a  National  Univer- 
sity founded  here. 

On  Oct.  21,  1783,  Congress  was  insulted  while  in  session  at  Philadelphia  by  a 
party  of  mutinous  soldiers,  and  removed  Its  sessions  to  Princeton.  It  had  then 
occupied  8  different  locations  within  as  many  years,  and  now  desired  to  establish 
a  federal  city  for  the  location  of  the  national  capital.  Tlie  great  diillculty  was 
found  in  the  local  pride  of  the  sections,  each  of  wliich  desired  to  have  the  capital 
within  its  borders.  New  York  wanted  it  at  Kingston,  Rhode  Island  at  Newport, 
Maryland  nt  Annapolis,  and  Virginia  at  Williamsburgh.  South  Carolina  protested 
against  Philadelphia  on  account  of  the  antislavery  sentiment  there.  German- 
town,  Wrightstown  (Penn.),  and  Havre  de  Grace  also  had  strong  advocates  ;  and 
in  1787  Lee,  of  Virginia,  proposed  Georgetown,  which  was,  however,  rejected  by 
Mass.,  N.  Y.,  Va.,  and  Ga.  In  1790  an  act  was  passed  locating  the  city  on  the 
hills  of  Conococheague  (the  present  site),  and  Wasliington  purchased  the  requisite 
land  from  the  4  resident  farmers.  As  earlv  as  1663  the  domain  was  called  Rome, 
the  traversing  water-cour^o  the  Tiber,  and  the  chief  eminence  (on  which  the  Capi- 
tol now  stands)  was  known  as  the  Capitol ine  Hill, — not,  as  has  been  intimated, 
on  account  of  prophetic  intimations  of  its  future  greatness,  but  because  it  was 
owned  by  a  Mr.  Pope,  who  facetiously  desired  to  be  called  the  Pope  of  Rome.  In 
1755  Washington  had  encamped  on  the  present  site  of  the  Naval  Observatory 
with  Braddock's  troops,  and  i)robably  had  studied  the  surrounding  topography. 

April  15,  1791,  the  corner-stone  of  the  District  of  Columbia  was  laid  with 
Masonic  ceremonies.  Gen.  Washington  named  the  new  capital  "  The  Federal 
City";  but  in  the  following  year  (1792)  the  commissioners  entitled  it  "The  City 
of  Washington."  Jeffei-son  detested  the  old  Babylonian  plan  of  rectangular 
squares  (as  exemplified  at  Philadelphia) ;  and  under  his  influence  the  surveyors 
(L'Enfant  and  Ellicott)  introduced  a  system  of  grand  Versaillaise  avenues.  The 
commissioners  ordered  the  founding  of  an  ornate  itinerary  column  in  tlie  present 
Lincoln  Square  (like  the  Umbilicus  in  the  Roman  Forum),  whence  all  American 
distances  should  be  computed  and  the  national  roads  should  depart.  A  grand 
national  church  (non-sectarian)  was  to  be  founded  on  the  present  Patent-Office 
site  ;  and  15  squares  were  to  be  given  to  the  States  for  adornment.  In  1788-89, 
Maryland  and  Virginia  ceded  a  domain  of  100  square  M.  to  the  U.  S.  (of  which 
the  Virginian  portion  was  unfortunately  retroceded  in  1846X 


J\i 


444     Route  70, 


WASHINGTON. 


nr 


The  Battle  of  Bladenshurg  was  fought  Aug.  22,  1814,  when  8,000  Maryland 
militia  were  led  out  to  repulse  the  invading  British  force  under  Gen.  Ross.  The 
militia,  though  superior  in  number  to  the  enemy,  behaved  with  shameful  pol- 
troonery, and  fled  at  the  first  volley ;  but  a  detachment  of  400  sailors  with  artilleiy 
fought  valiantly  until  they  were  surrounded  and  overpowered,  and  the  hostile 
force  then  occupied  the  city  (after  losing  250  men).  President  Madison  had 
watched  the  battle,  and  was  obliged  to  seek  refuge  in  Virginia.  The  Navy  Yard 
had  been  destroyed  by  the  Americans,  and  the  British,  under  the  lead  of  the 
truculent  Admiral  Cockbum,  proceeded  to  bum  and  cannonade  the  Capitol, 
White  House,  and  other  public  buildings.  After  these  Vandalic  acts  of  destruction 
the  invaders  retired,  leaving  the  shabby  village  in  ruins. 

At  the  opening  of  the  Secession  War  Wasliington  was  an  imclean  and  widely 
scattered  city  of  about  60,000  inhabitants,  with  many  slaves  and  unassimilated 
factions  of  society.  Northern  and  Southern.  Wide  and  desolate  avenues  ran 
through  half-settled  districts,  unpavec  and  miiddy ;  and  the  unfinished  public 
buildings  looked  ragged  and  uncomely.  Tl>e  volunteers  reported  that  it  was 
"  hardly  worth  defending,  except  for  the  klat  of  the  thing."  The  half-disloyal 
District  militia  was  inadequate,  even  if  willing,  to  protect  the  city  against  the  in- 
surgent Virginians ;  and  great  enthusiasm  was  manifested  when  the  Central 
Pennsylvania  troops  reached  the  capital.  The  armed  and  disciplined  6th  Mass. 
quickly  arrived,  and  was  followed  by  the  7th  N.  Y.,  and  thereafter  by  a  vast 
stream  of  Northern  and  Western  volunteer.  The  camps  of  the  Army  of  the 
Potomac  were  hence "orth,  for  a  long  time  and  at  different  periods,  about  tlie  city ; 
and  its  vast  depots  of  ammunition  and  supplies  were  located  here.  It  retreated  on 
Washington  after  the  disastrous  defeats  at  Bull  Bun  (July  21, 1861 ;  and  August, 
1862).  On  "the  solemn  circle  of  those  far-bastioned  hills"  about  the  city  were 
established  lines  of  fortifications  gi'eater  than  those  of  Torres  Vedrasor  any  others 
heretofore  constnicted  in  the  world.  The  defensive  perimeter  covered  35  M. ;  and 
20,000  acres  of  V'  i 'land  were  cleared  to  give  play  to  the  guns.  There  were  56 
forts  and  60  bat%  .  i,  connected  by  many  miles  of  intrenchments  and  rifle-pits, 
with  heavy  bomb  proofs  and  secure  masked  roads.  They  mounted  8-900  guns 
(some  of  the  heaviest  calibre),  and  peeded  a  garrison  of  25,000,  while  with  50,000 
men  the  city  was  impregnable.  In  July,  1864,  while  nearly  all  the  troops  were 
with  Qrant  before  Petersburg,  the  defences  were  assailed  by  a  division  of  Confed- 
erate veterans  under  Gen.  Early.  The  men  of  the  civil  service  were  enrolled  in 
regiments  and  put  into  the  rifle-pits,  but  the  artillerists  in  Fort  Stevens  and  De 
Bussey  (7th  St  Boad)  did  all  the  work,  shattering  with  a  heavy  convergent  fire  a 
storming  party  of  rebels,  and  easily  driving  back  the  hostile  field-guns.  In  the 
nick  of  time  the  veteran  6th  Corps  arrived  on  transports  from  the  South,  and, 
marching  out  through  the  fortifications,  fell  upon  the  astonished  enemy.  Early 
Wtired  to  the  Valley  of  Virginia  in  season  to  be  defeated  by  Sheridan.  Since  the 
close  of  the  war  and  the  grand  pageants  of  the  parade  of  Grant's  and  Sherman's 
united  annies,  the  growth  of  the  city  has  been  remarkably  rapid  and  healthy.  In 
1871  the  District  of  Columbia  was  erected  into  a  Territorial  government,  under 
whose  administration  immense  amounts  have  been  spent  in  paving  and  grading 
the  streets  and  embellishing  the  city.    This  government  was  broken  up  in  1874. 


i> 


70.    The  Environ8  of  Washington.    Arling^n  and  Mount 

Vernon. 

Bladensburg  is  6  M.  N.  E.  of  Washington,  and  is  a  shabby  old  Mary- 
land village,  near  the  battle-field  of  Aug.  22,  1814.  1  M.  distant,  ar.d  in 
a  sequestered  glen  near  the  highway,  is  the  famous  "  duelling-ground," 
where  so  many  fatal  duels  were  fought  during  the  earlier  days  of  the  Re- 
public. The  most  mournful  of  these  encounters  was  that  between  Com- 
modores Barron  and  Decatur,  in  which  the  latter  was  mortally  wounded. 
2  M.  N.  of  Bladensburg  is  the  noble  old  estate  of  (Jeorge  Calvert,  of  the 
Lord  Baltimore  family,  where  a  deer-park  was  formerly  established. 


'Sk^: 


SOLDIERS'  HOME. 


Haute  70.     445 


Maryland 
>B8.  The 
leful  pol- 
i  artilleiy 
le  hostile 
ison  had 
avy  Yard 
id  of  the 
Capitol, 
struction 

id  widely 
similated 
nues  ran 
Bd  public 
it  it  was 
f-disloyal 
St  the  iu- 
;  Central 
Sth  Mass. 
Dy  a  vast 
ny  of  the 
the  city ; 
Teated  on 
i  August, 
city  were 
my  others 
3  M. ;  and 
•e  were  56 
rifle-pits, 
-900  guns 
itli  50,000 
oops  were 
)f  Confed- 
irolled  in 
is  and  De 
;ent  Are  a 
In  the 
luth,  and, 
y.    Early 
Since  the 
Sherman's 
ilthy.    In 
nt,  under 
d  grading 
in  1874. 


Mount 

Id  Mary- 
,  ar.d  in 
jround," 
the  Re- 
en  Com- 
rounded. 
t,  of  the 
ed. 


The  CNyvemment  Aiylrnn  for  the  Iniane  (of  the  army,  navy,  and 
District  of  Columbia)  is  reached  by  crossing  the  Navy  Yard  Bridge  and 
ascending  the  heights  beyond  Uniontown:  The  building  is  750  ft  long, 
and  is  in  collegiate  Qothic  architecture,  occupying  an  estate  of  over  400 
acres.  It  stands  on  a  high  ridge  over  the  Eastern  Branch,  and  overlooks 
Washington  and  the  Potomac.  The  Columbia  Institution  for  the  Deaf 
and  Dumb  occupies  the  old  Kendall  Green  estate,  N.  K  of  the  city.  It 
is  open  to  both  sexes,  and  has  a  collegiate  department.  The  central  build- 
ing is  a  beautiful  sandstone  structure  in  ornate  Gothic  architecture,  and 
is  richly  adorned  and  furnished  ;  while  the  adjacent  buildings  are  spacious 
and  commodious.  The  Olenwood  Cemetery  is  \\  M.  N.  of  the  Capitol, 
and  is  a  pleasant  rural  burying-ground. 

The  Howard  University  is  on  the  7th  St.  road  just  beyond  the  city 
limits,  and  was  founded  in  1867  (by  the  efforts  of  Gen.  0.  0.  Howard)  for 
the  education  of  youth  without  regard  to  sex  or  color.  It  has  nearly  600 
students,  of  whom  (report  of  1871  -  72)  there  are,  in  the  nonnal  depart- 
ment, 238;  preparatory,  100;  collegiate,  35;  theological,  26;  law,  67; 
medical,  45 ;  commercial,  84 ;  musical,  21.  The  larger  part  of  the  stu- 
dents consists  of  negroes,  from  Washington,  the  Southern  States,  the 
West  Indies,  and  Africa.  The  University  building  is  a  stately  structure 
of  white  brick,  containing  the  lecture-rooms  and  museums,  and  overlooks 
the  city  from  its  lofty  hill-top.  The  view  from  the  tower  is  very  pleas- 
ing. To  the  N.  are  the  Miner  Hall,  Nonnal  Building,  and  the  Clarke 
Hall ;  and  to  the  S.,  on  the  plain,  are  the  Medical  College  and  Freedmen's 
Hospital. 

The  ♦  Soldiers'  Home  is  3  M.  N.  of  the  Capitol  (horse-cars  on  7th  St.), 
near  the  7th  St.  Road.  It  consists  of  severel  marble  buildings  in  Norman 
architecture,  surroimded  by  a  fine  park  oi  jO  acres,  which  is  laid  out 
with  winding  roads,  lakelets,  and  copses.  Near  the  dormitory  building 
is  a  bronze  statue  (10  ft.  high)  of  Gen.  Seott,  by  Launt  Thompson.  This 
noble  asylum,  "  the  Chelsea  of  Araericii,"  was  founded  in  1851  with  the' 
proceeds  of  a  forced  levy  on  the  city  Ji  Mexico,  which  Gen.  Scott's  army 
carried  by  storm  in  1847.  The  military-asylum  fund  had  increased  by 
1868  to  $  800,000,  and  was  about  to  be  distributed  to  the  State  asylums, 
when  the  commissioners  of  this  institution  applied  it  to  the  purchase  of 
W.  W.  Corcoran's  adjacent  park  and  domain  of  "Harewood."  This 
home  is  for  disabled  soldiers  of  the  legular  army  (who  forego  their 
pensions  while  here),  and  is  supported  by  a  tax  of  12o  a  month  on  each 
soldier  of  the  army.  Presidents  Pierce  and  Lincoln  made  this  their 
favorite  summer  residence.  N.  of  this  point  is  a  National  Cemetery^ 
where  5,424  soldiers  are  buried.  The  Rock  Creek  Church  (St.  Paul's)  is 
a  fine  old  Episcopal  church  near  the  Home,  and  situated  in  a  broad  and 
venerable  graveyard.    The  church  was  built  in  1719,  with  bricks  imported 


•m 


446    itouuro. 


GEORGETOWN. 


^^^^1    i 


MvHiif     i: 


ftrom  England,  and  has  been  somewhat  remodelled.  Beyond  this  glen  are 
the  bare  heights  which  were  occupied  by  Forts  Totten  and  Slocum  and 
their  connecting  batteries ;  aitd  farther  to  the  W.,  beyond  the  7th  St. 
Road,  are  Forts  Stevens  and  De  Bussey,  whose  fire  scattered  the  rebel 
invaders  in  1864.  

Georgetown  (Union  Hotel)  is  a  quaint  little  city  of  11,384  inhabitants, 
separated  from  Washington  by  the  small  ravine  of  Rock  Creek,  and  sit- 
uated on  a  line  of  bold  heights  overlooking  ^>he  Potomac.  It  is  connected 
with  Washington  by  4  bridges  over  Rock  Creek,  and  by  2  lines  of  horse- 
cars.  The  low  riverward  street  is  lined  With  half-ruined  warehouses, 
which  mark  the  decline  of  the  commerce  of  the  port.  The  upper  line  of 
heights  command  fine  views  over  many  leagues,  and  are  occupied  by  old 
villas,  where  dwell  the  leaders  of  the  polite  and  cultured  society  for 
which  Georgetowu  is  famous.  *  Oak  Hill  Cemetery  is  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  in  the  country,  and  covers  the  slopes  of  the  heights  toward 
the  deep  glen  of  Rock  Creek,  with,  great  groves  of  old  oaks.  It  covers  30 
acres,  and  is  richly  endowed.  The  chapel  is  a  handsome  Gothic  building 
to  the  r.  of  the  entrance,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  luxuriant  ivy,  which 
completely  covers  the  stone-work.  Among  the  eminent  men  buried  in 
the  cemetery  are  Chief  justice  Chase  (died  1873),  Gen.  Reno,  Secretary 
Stanton,  Bodisco  (the  Russian  Minister),  and  numerous  ofiiuers  of  the  army 
and  navy.  Near  the  N.  E.  comer  is  the  massive  Doric  *  mausoleum  of 
W.  W.  Corcoran.  The  Linthicum  Chapel  is  worthy  of  note,  and  the 
Van  Ness-Bums  Mausoleum  (modelled  after  the  Temple  of  Vesta,  at 
Rome)  is  in  the  E.  part  of  the  grounds.  About  half-way  down  the  slope 
is  a  small  bronze  monument,  admirably  executed,  representing  a  dead 
cavalry-soldier.  Beyond  the  Cemetery  is  the  Georgetown  high-service 
reservoir,  a  loftily  situated,  dome-shaped  structure  which  is  visible  from 
a  great  distance. 

"  Oldish,  castellated,  with  queer,  feudal-looking  round-towers,  stands 
Georgetown  College,  on  the  heights  above  the  Potomac."  This  vener- 
able institution  was  founded  in  1789  by  the  tolerant  and  scholarly  Mary- 
land patrician,  John  Carroll,  first  Roman  Catholic  Bishop  of  the  U.  S. 
It  has  18  instructors  and  251  students  (many  of  whom  are  in  the  pre- 
paratory department),  and  instructs  on  the  ancient  and  approved  system 
of  the  P6re  Jouvency.  From  the  lofty  and  sequestered  grounds  is  ob- 
tained a  most  beautiful  *view,  embracing  parts  of  Washington  arl 
Greorgetown,  the  Arlington  Heights,  with  their  crumbling  forts,  and  :* 
long  vista  of  the  broad  and  silvery  Potomac. 

The  extensive  grounds  include  a  vineyard  (for  sacramental  wine),  wide  play- 
grounds, and  serpentine  walks.  The  old  building  is  flanked  by  newer  construc- 
tions, and  the  round-domed  astronomical  observatory  is  on  the  knoll  to  the  N. 
The  *  library  contains  over  80,000  volumes,  and  is  especially  rich  in  patristic 


GREAT  FALLa 


JimUe  70.      447 


literature  and  ancient  volumes  (100  printed  befbre  the  Reformation).  There  we 
also  rich  illuminated  MdS.,  black-letter  missals  and  prayer-booica,  a  Bible  dating 
from  1435,  the  Docretala  of  St.  Isidore,  the  BoUandist  Llvea  of  the  Saints,  and  a 
•  set  of  religious  works  printed  in  nearly  every  langaage  and  hieroglyph  of  Europe, 
Asia,  and  tiie  Americas  (see  case  near  the  S.  window).  The  museum  contains 
many  curious  natural  and  historical  souvenirs,  including  some  relics  of  the 
Decatur  family.  Visitors  are  conducted  through  the  buildings  by  bland  Jesuits, 
in  medisBval  costumes.  This  richly  endowed  colle^  is  the  nead-quarters  of  tlie 
Jesuits  in  the  District,  and  has  large  medical  and  law  acl.o<>l8.  The  brotlierhood 
also  conducts  the  Gonzaga  College,  in  Washington,  and  is  very  powerful  in  this 
region.    Under  its  auspices,  several  thousand  Catholics  of  the  District  made  a 

Eilgrimage  (iu  May.  1874)  to  the  ancient  mission-church  of  White  Marsh,  in  Mary- 
ind,  where  the  Church  held  its  conventions  during  the  colonial  era  (near  which 
is  a  statue  of  the  Virgin  Mary,  carved  in  the  roclc  over  a  :ipring  which  is  reputed 
to  produce  miraculous  cures). 

The  Convent  of  the  Visitation  is  on  Fayette  St.,  near  the  College  preached  by  F 
St.  horse-cars  from  Washington),  and  has  flne  buildings  in  a  park  of  40  acres. 
It  Is  under  the  nuns  of  the  Order  of  the  Visitation,  and  has  a  large  pominary  for 
young  ladies,  much  patronized  by  the  Catholic  aristocracy  of  the  neighboring 
States.    It  is  the  oldest  house  in  America  of  this  order,  and  was  founded  in  1799. 

Tlie  Aqueduct  Bridge  crosses  the  river  at  Georgetown,  and  connects 
the  Chesapeake  &  Ohio  Canal  with  the  Alexandria  Canal.  The  aqueduct 
■was  drained  in  1861,  and  was  used  during  the  Secession  War,  for  the  pas- 
sage of  troops,  supplies,  and  artillery.  It  is  now  provided  with  a  carriage- 
way above  the  water-course.  The  canal  was  built  in  1828-41  at  a  cost 
of  9 13,000,000  (most  of  which  was  borne  by  Maryland),  and  runs  from 
Cumberland  (see  page  412)  to  Georgetown,  a  distance  of  182  M.,  with  75 
locks,  11  aqueducts,  and  numerous  tunnels  (one  of  which  is  3,100  ft. 
long).     It  is  desired  to  extend  it  to  Pittsburgh. 

Analostan  Island  is  opposite  Georgetown,  and  contains  70  acres.  The 
dilapidated  mansion  of  Gen.  Mason  still  stands  on  a  knoll  at  the  S.  end. 
Here,  in  its  palmy  days,  was  born  James  M.  Mason,  U.  S.  Senator  from 
Virginia  (1847-1861,  then  expelled  for  disloyalty),  author  of  the  Fugitive 
Slave  Law,  and  Rebel  Commissioner  to  Europe  (with  Slidell). 

The  *  Great  Falls  of  the  Fotomao  are  about  14  M.  from  the  Capitol. 
The  road  passes  the  great  reservoirs  of  the  water-works,  amid  very  pleas- 
ant scenery,  viewing  on  the  1.  the  Chain  Bridge  and  its  connected  fortifi- 
cations, and  the  Little  Falls  (37  ft.  of  rapids).  About  7  M.  beyond 
Georgetown  is  the  *  Cabin  John  Bridge,  the  largest  stone  arch  in  the 
world.  The  aqueduct  is  here  carried  across  Cabin  John  Creek  about  100 
ft.  above  its  bed  on  a  granite  bridge  of  220  ft.  span;  and  from  the  canal 
beneath  looks  like  a  mere  thread  against  the  sky.  The  Mountain  Spring 
Bridge  is  1  M.  above,  and  is  a  fine  elliptical  span  of  sxibstantial  masonry. 
At  the  Great  Falls  the  river  is  narrowed  by  precipitous  banks  and  rocky 
islands,  and  passes  through  and  down  the  rugged  slopes,  falling  80  ft.  in 
1^  M.  The  principal  fall  is  40  ft.  high,  and  the  neighboring  scenery  is 
remarkable  for  its  ragged  appearance. 

The  Washington  Aqueduct  was  founded  in  1856,  and  has  cost  $  3,600,000. 
It  collects  the  Potomac  water  by  a  line  of  stone  dams  at  the  Great  Ftdls,  and  con- 


448     Jt<mU70, 


ARLINGTON. 


:|lf 


dncts  it  to  WMhington  hy  an  aqueduct  18  M.  long.  The  receivfng  resenroir  is  4 
If.  above  Geoigetown,  and  contains  168,000,000  gaUons ;  the  distributing  reaervoir 
is  8  M.  below,  and  contains  160,000,000  gallons ;  and  the  Qeoigetown  h&b-service 
xeservoir  contains  1,000,000  gallons. 


**  On  Fwnae't  eternal  eamplng-gronnds 
Their  filent  tento  are  tpreaa, 
And  Glory  guardi,  with  ■olemn  round. 
The  biTOuae  of  the  dead." 

The  *  Arlington  National  Cemetery  is  about  4  M.  tram  the  Capitol, 
on  the  Virginian  shore  of  the  Potomac  River,  and  is  reached  by  carriages 
either  from  the  Aqueduct  Bridge  or  the  Long  Bridge  (the  latter  route 
being  somewhat  longer,  and  leading  by  the  old  fortifications  of  the  tite- 
du-pont).  It  is  about  1^  M.  from  the  Georgetown  terminus  of  the  horse- 
car  line,  and  is  easily  reached  by  good  walkers.  The  main  entrance  is 
l':ix>ugh  an  arched  gateway  at  the  S.  E.  comer  of  the  grounds.  There  are 
15,585  soldiers  buried  in  the  cemetery,  the  greater  part  of  whom  are  back 
Ci  the  Mansion  House,  drawn  up  in  long  lines  on  a  high  and  well-shaded 
plateau.  The  ofScers  are  buried  above  and  along  the  carriage-way;  and 
>:>ear  the  garden  is  a  massive  granite  cenotaph  surrounded  by  4  cannon, 
under  which  are  the  remains  of  2,111  unknown  soldiers,  gathered  after 
ti.i)  war  from  the  battle-fields  between  Bull  Run  and  the  Rappahannock. 
Near  this  point  is  an  amphitheatre  with  sittings  for  5,000  persons,  where 
are  held  the  annual  services  of  Decoration  Dviy  {May  30).  Among  the 
lines  of  graves  are  numerous  insoriptions  : 

••  These  fdthful  herald  tablets, 
With  mournful  pride,  shall  tell 
(When  many  a  vanished  age  hath  flown) 
The  story  how  ye  fell. 
Mor  wreclc,  nor  change,  nor  winter's  blight, ' 
Mor  Time's  remorseless  doom. 
Shall  mar  one  rav  of  Glory's  light 
That  gilds  your  deathless  tomb." 

The  white  soldiers  are  buried  W.  of  the  mansion;  and  the  colored 
troops  and  refugees  are  on  the  slopes  some  distance  to  the  N. 

The  ArliTtgton  mansion  is  a  stately  old  building  occupying  a  hill-top 
^K)  ft.  above  the  river,  and  fronted  by  a  classic  portal  resting  on  8  mas- 
sive Doric  columns.  It  is  provided  with  spacrous  wings,  stables,  slave- 
quarters,  gardens,  and  '  onser'atories.  The  *view  of  Washington  and 
the  Potomac  River  froiu  the  portico  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in 
America,  and  is  of  itself  worth  the  joun.  y  hither.  The  interior  of  tho 
mansion  (open  to  visitors)  contains  nothing  of  interest;  the  valuable 
mementos  of  Washington  and  collection  of  pictures  was  canied  away  by 
the  family  in  its  flight. 

The  Arlington  estate  belonged  to  Mr.  D.  P.  Custis,  whose  widow  was  married 
by  George  Washington,  who  left  the  estate  tr  George  Washington  Parke  Custis, 
the  grandson  of  Mrs.  Washington  and  the  adopted  son  of  Washington.  This 
gentleman  bu>lt  the  Arlington  mansion  about  1802,  and  the  domain  l^can.a  cele- 
brated for  its  good  cheer  and  generous  hospitality.  Mr.  Custis's  daughter  married 
Bobert  £.  Lee,  who  afterwards  dwelt  here  while  an  officer  of  the  U.  S>  Army. 


**  The  neighing  troop,  tue  flashing  blade. 
The  bogle's  stirring  blast. 
The  charge,  the  dreadful  cannonade, 
The  din  and  shout  are  past 
Nor  War's  wild  note,  nor  Glory's  peal, 
Shall  thrill  with  fierce  delight 
Theae  breasts,  that  nevermore  may  feel 
The  laptons  of  tlie  fight" 


;  ( 


ALEXANDRIA. 


JUatUeTO,      449 


eiToir  is  4 
;  reservoir 
gh-Mrvic« 


>  Capitol, 
carriages 
ter  route 
the  tite- 
he  horse- 
traDce  is 
Fhere  are 
are  back 
U-shaded 
way; and 
I  cannon, 
red  after 
hannock. 
IS,  where 
nong  the 


li  flown) 
er'ibUght, 

it 

)  colored 

hill-top 
m  8  mas- 
,  slave- 
gton  and 
utiful  in 
>r  of  tho 
valuable 
away  by 


married 
Ice  Custis, 
on.  This 
;aib3  cele- 
jr  married 
S.  Army. 


Here  he  made  his  fatal  deoision  to  follow  the  fortunes  of  the  insurgent  South,  and 
soon  afterwards  went  to  Richmond.  The  deserted  estate  became  a  camp-ground 
for  the  National  troops ;  forts  were  erected  on  its  hills ;  and  the  mnnsion  was 
used  as  a  head-quarters.  In  1863  the  domain  was  sold  on  account  of  the  non> 
payment  of  taxes,  and  was  purchased  by  the  United  States.  The  cemetery  was 
completed  in  1S67,  and  is  the  scene  of  solemn  and  imposing  yearly  ceremonies,  at 
which  the  President  and  Cabinet  and  the  chiefo  of  the  army  and  civil  service  are 
usually  present. 

Fort  Whipple  is  on  the  eminence  next  N.  W.  of  the  mansion.  It  was 
one  of  the  lighter  field-works  of  the  Defences  of  Washingcou  in  1861  -65, 
and  is  now  used  as  the  head-quarters  and  training-school  of  the  Signal 
Corps  of  the  army.  Fort  Corcoran  was  over  the  head  of  the  Aqueduct 
Bridge;  Fort  Albany  was  3.  of  Arlington;  and  the  storm-beaten  remnants 
of  other  forts  are  foimd  all  along  the  heights  for  many  miles. 


Alexandria  {Mansion  House)  is  situated  at  the  confluence  of  the  Poto- 
mac River  and  Hunting  Creek,  7  M.  below  Washington  (ferry-boats  hourly 
from  7th  St.  Wharf,  15c. ;  railroad  hourly  from  comer  of  6th  and  B  Sts.). 
It  is  a  city  of  13,570  inhabitants,  devoted  to  commerce  and  the  shipping 
of  corn  and  tobacco.  The  streets  are  quaint  and  quiet,  paved  with  great 
uneven  stones,  and  lined  with  staid  and  characteristic  houses.  The  in- 
habitants are  almost  altogether  of  the  purest  Virginian  stock,  with  the 
peculiar  dialect  and  manners  of  the  Old  Dominion.  The  names  of  the 
streets  —  King,  Queen,  Prince,  Duke,  St.  Asaph,  etc. — are  suggestive 
of  the  old-time  memories  of  the  people.  The  chief  object  of  interest  is 
Christ  Church,  a  venerable  edifice  (comer  of  Washington  and  Cameron 
Sts.)  in  the  peculiar  "  Queen  Anne's  architecture  "  which  was  common  to 
the  pro-Revolutionary  Episcopal  churches  of  Virginia,  now  falling  into 
ruin  throughout  the  tide  water  counties.  This  church  was  erected  be- 
tween 1765  and  1773,  of  imported  bricks,  and  is  interesting  from  the  fact 
that  George  Washington  was  a  vestryman  and  had  a  pew  here  (No.  69), 
which  is  still  reverently  shown.  The  church  is  surrounded  by  a  venerable 
graveyard.  Pew  No.  46  was  occupied  by  Robert  E.  Lee,  of  Arlington, 
afterwards  commander  of  the  rebel  armies.  On  the  outskirts  of  the  city 
is  a  National  Cemetery  containiug  the  remains  of  nearly  4,000  National 
soldiers  who  died  during  the  Secession  War.  The  Little  River  Turnpike 
runs  W.  from  Alexandria  to  Aunandale  and  Fairfax  Court-House,  and 
was  the  chief  route  of  advance  for  the  National  armies  during  the  war. 
It  is  very  familiar  ground  to  thousands  of  Northern  gentlemen.  Near  the 
city  it  passes  the  ruins  of  Fort  Ellsworth^  on  Shuter's  Hill,  beyond  which 
a  road  diverges  to  the  r.  to  the  Fairfax  Seminary,  a  famous  theological 
school  of  the  Episcopal  Church,  witli  3  professors,  59  students,  450  alumni, 
and  a  library  of  9,000  volumes.  The  buildings  are  neat  and  commodious, 
and  occupy  a  secluded  hill-top,  whence  are  gained  delightful  views  of  the 
broad  Potomac,  Alexandria,  and  Washington.    The  Seminaiy  was  occu- 

GO 


;:rl| 

.'I 


450     JtouU  70. 


MOUNT  VERNON. 


pied  by  troops  daring  the  Secession  War,  and  a  short  distance  to  the  W., 
beyond  Fort  Worth,  was  the  picket-line  which  watched  the  debatable 
ground  of  Northern  Virginia.  Rugged  roads  lead  N.  along  the  embattled 
ridges  to  Hunter's  Chapel  and  Arlington  Heights.  Tlie  Accotink  Turn- 
pike runs  S.  from  Alexandria  across  the  broad  estuary  of  Hunting  Creek 
and  over  the  bold  heights  where  stand  the  ruins  of  Fort  Lyon  and  its  con- 
nected batteries.  This  road  commands  pleasant  views  of  the  stately 
Potomac,  and  leads  to  Mount  Vernon. 

Alexandria  was  founded  in  1748,  under  the  name  of  Belhaven,  and  soon  became 
a  commercial  port  of  considerable  importance.  In  1766  Braddock'M  Anglo- Amer- 
ican army  rendezvoused  here,  and  the  governors  of  6  colonies  met  in  the  town  to 
concert  plans  of  operations  against  tlie  French.  Washington  was  a  fi^iient  visi- 
tor here,  and  left  substiintial  tolcens  of  liis  esteem.  In  1814  the  town  was  taken 
by  the  British,  who  carried  away  large  quantities  of  provisions  and  several  vessels. 
Alexandria  pertained  to  the  District  of  Columbia  from  1788  to  1846,  when  it  was 

gvexi  back  to  Virginia.  Early  in  1861  it  was  occupied  by  rebel  cavalry ;  and  on 
ay- 24  the  N.  Y.  Fire  Zouaves  occupied  the  place,  their  Colonel,  EUswortli,  being 
killed  while  taking  down  the  Secession  fl^  on  the  Marshall  House  hotel.  Thence- 
forth for  4  years  the  city  was  ovemm  with  soldiers  and  girt  with  fortifications, 
and  its  streets  were  barrieaded  with  palisades  and  abatU.  The  damages  caused  by 
the  war  have  never  been  retrieved. 

*  Mount  Vernon  is  15  M.  below  Washington,  and  is  reached  by  steam- 
boats, which  leave  the  foot  of  7th  St.  at  10  a.  m.  daily  (fare  down  and 
back,  including  admission  to  the  grounds,  $  1.50).  The  voyage  down  the 
river  is  very  pleasant ;  and  the  quaint  wharves  of  Alexandria  are  soon 
reached,  beyond  which  the  boat  passes  (on  the  r.)  the  lighthouse  on 
Jones's  Point  and  the  mouth  of  Hunting  Creek.  Landings  are  made  at 
Fort  Foote  and  Fort  Washington  (an  old  stone  fort,  well  armed  and 
garrisoned,  which  was  destroyed  by  the  British  in  1814).  Crossing  the 
river  diagonally,  with  the  outlet  of  Little  Hunting  Creek  on  the  r.,  the 
steamboat  stops  at  the  landing  of  Mount  Vernon. 

The  mansion-house  is  a  wooden  building  of  considerable  size  and 
antique  style,  with  a  broad  and  lofty  portico  fronting  towards  the  Poto- 
mac. The  views  of  the  river,  especially  to  the  S.,  are  of  great  beauty 
and  attractiveness.  The  interior  of  the  mansion  is  spacious  and  anti- 
quated; and  the  room  in  which  Washington  died  (S.  side  ;  second  story ; 
fine  view  from  windows)  and  the  chamber  occupied  by  Lafayette  (second 
story)  are  its  most  interesting  parts.  The  dining-hall  contains  the  paint- 
ing of  Washington  before  Yorktown,  by  Rembrandt  Peale ;  also  copies 
of  TrumbuU'i  and  Stuart's  portraits  of  Washington.  The  Sienna-marble 
mantel  (carved  in  Italy,  and  presented  to  Washington  in  1785)  and  the 
ancient  harpsichord  in  this  room  will  attract  the  attention  ;  also  the  key 
of  the  Bastile  in  the  hall  (presented  by  Lafayette),  and  the  personal 
mementos  of  Washington  in  the  other  rooms  of  the  groimd  floor.  N. 
W.  of  the  house  are  the  buildings  of  the  lodges,  servants'  quarters,  etc., 
and  a  garden  which  was  laid  out  by  Washington.  The  old  family-vault 
occupies  a  pleasant  situation  near  the  river. 


FREDERICKSBURG. 


ItmUe  70.      451 


The  country  about  Mount  Vernon  is  rich  In  memories  of  Washington 
and  his  eminent  contemporaries.  7  M.  S.  W.  of  the  mansion  is  the  ancient 
Pohick  Church,  an  Episcopal  parish  church  which  was  located  by  Wash- 
ington,  who  was  one  of  its  vestrymen.  It  was  built  in  1765,  and  at  one 
time  had  a  large,  wealthy,  and  aristocratic  congregation,  but  is  now 
abandoned  and  in  a  semi-ruinous  conditio^.  Beyond  this  point  is  the 
ancient  and  decadent  hamlet  of  Occoquan,  at  the  head  of  navigatipn  on 
the  Occoquan  Creek,  and  below  the  great  wilderness  called  the  Occoquan 
Forest.  A  few  miles  below  is  Fredericksburg  (founded  in  1727,  and 
named  in  honor  of  the  heir-apparent  to  the  English  throne),  a  quaint  and 
dilapidated  little  city  on  the  Rappahannock  River.  It  was  completely 
ruined  by  a  long  and  teiTific  bombardment  from  the  artillery  of  the  Army 
of  the  Potomac  ;  and  here  (and  at  Chancellorsville,  a  short  distance  to 
the  S.)  the  National  armies  suffered  two  disastrous  defeats.  The  Con- 
federate cemetery  near  Fredericksbui^  is  adorned  with  a  monumental 
memorial;  and  the  National  cemetery  contains  the  remains  of  many 
thousands  of  patriot  soldiers  who  fell  in  the  defeats  in  this  vicinity.  Still 
farther  down  the  tide-water  region  is  Westmoreland,  "the  Athens  of 
Virginia,"  with  its  ancient  ruined  churches  and  mansions  and  decadent  vil- 
lages. This  county  derives  its  honorable  title  from  the  fact  that  within 
its  borders  were  bom  the  two  Lees  who  signed  the  Declaration  of  Inde- 
pendence, "  Light  Horse  Harry  "  Lee,  Judge  Bushrod  Washington,  Pres- 
ident Monroe,  and  George  Washihgton,  with  numerous  other  prominent 
men  of  local  renown.  Near  Fredericksburg  stood  a  stately  (but  unfin- 
ished and  desecrated)  monument  over  the  grave  of  the  mother  of  Washing- 
ton, on  whose  site  the  nation  is  about  to  erect  a  new  and  worthy  memorial. 

The  *  Tomb  of  Waihington  is  a  plain  and  homely  brie!"  structure 
near  the  Mount  Venion  mansion,  and  on  the  edge  of  a  steep  hillside  over 
a  wooded  glen.  Within,  and  visible  through  the  iron- work  of  the  gate, 
are  the  marble  sarcophagi  which  contain  the  remains  of  George  and 
Martha  Washington. 

In  1743  Laurence  Washington  married  Anne  Fairfax,  and  soon  afterward  built 
the  spacious  mansion  on  the  Potomac,  whicli  he  named  Mount  Yernoiif  in 
honor  of  Admiral  Vernon,  with  whom  he  had  served  in  the  terribly  disastrous 
campaign  against  Cartagena  (on  the  Spanish  Main).  Laurence's  young  half- 
brother,  George,  was  a  frequent  visitor  here,  and  inherited  the  domain  in  1752. 
This  became  his  cherished  home;  and  here  he  engaged  in  the  labors  of  agri- 
culture, living  prudently,  yet  with  a  generous  hospitality,  and  entertaining  the 
most  distinguished  men  of  America.  After  his  death  the  estate  ]>assed  to  other 
branches  of  the  family ;  and  in  1866  the  mansion  and  6  acres  of  land  were  pur- 
chased for  0  200,000  by  the  Ladies'  Mount  Vernon  Association,  aided  by  the  efforts 
of  Edward  Everett.  It  has  since  been  the  property  of  the  nation,  and  was  treated 
with  sacred  respect  by  both  armies  during  the  Secession  War. 

Ogoroe  Washington,  "  the  Father  of  his  Country,"  and  the  victorious  general 
of  the  American  armies  in  the  War  for  independence,  was  descended  from  an 
ancient  rural  patrician  family  of  English  Northamptonshire.  He  was  bom  Feb. 
22,  1732,  in  Westmoreland  County,  Virginia,  on  the  banks  of  the  Potomac,  Am;us- 


ilii 


1 ;  l!ii 
ilii 


'i 


:  :i 


452     RouU70. 


WAiiHIKOTON. 


tine  and  Mary  Washington  betng  h\n  parenta.  At  the  age  of  14  (hli  father  having; 
been  dead  8  yean)  he  received  a  warrant  as  a  inldahipman  In  the  British  navy ; 
and  his  baggage  had  already  been  Hriit  on  board  the  frigate,  when  hin  mothe.- 
withdrew  her  consent,  and  rie  was  sent  to  school.  In  his  17th  .  oar  he  was  seiu 
on  a  Rurveying  expedition  to  the  Alleghanv  Mts.,  and  devoted  3  years  to  the 
buriness  or  surveying.  He  went  to  Borbadoes  in  1761,  and  on  his  return  was 
put  in  command  of  forces  of  Virginia  militia.  In  1769  h<)  tfft  the  provincial 
service,  married  Mrs.  Martha  Custls,  and  thenceforth  devotoc<  his  time  to  agri- 
culture and  Virginian  local  government  He  was  oummamU^r  ui  the  troops  of  the 
Province  in  17fi5  and  1758,  and  in  1774  was  sent  as  a  delegate  to  the  Continental 
Congress  at  Philadelphia.  In  1775  he  was  chosen  commander-in-chief  of  the 
American  armies,  and  proceeded  at  once  to  the  N.  to  carry  on  the  siege  of 
Boston.  Henceforth  he  led  the  Continental  forces  through  long,  and  oftentimes 
adverse,  campaigns,  before  superior  armies  of  royalist  troops,  and  kept  the  dis- 
courageid,  unpaid,  and  half-fed  Americans  in  line  by  his  ^icrsonal  influence  aiui 
power.  Late  in  1783,  the  national  independence  being  secured,  he  resigned  his 
commission,  and  retired  to  Mount  Vernon.  In  1789  he  was  inaugurated  first 
President  of  the  United  States,  and  held  that  oflice  through  two  tenns.  In  1797 
he  again  retired  to  his  estates,  and  lived  here  in  auietness,  amid  the  well-be- 
loved scenes  of  his  youth,  and  in  the  company  or  hia  noble  wife.  He  died 
Dec.  14, 1790. 


in 


fkther  havin;; 
British  navy; 
sn  hin  mothe.- 
ar  he  was  sent, 
I  years  to  the 
lis  return  was 
the  provincial 

time  to  agri- 
e  troops  of  the 
le  Continental 
a-chiof  of  the 
I  the  siege  of 
ind  oftentimes 
[  kept  the  dis- 

influence  and 
le  resigned  his 
ngurated  first 
snns.  In  1797 
id  the  well-be- 
rife.    He  die4 


Abbey  Island,  Md.  889. 
Aberdeen,  Md.  880. 
Abington,  Pa.  800. 
Absecom,  N.  J.  294. 
Adams,  N.  Y.  159. 
Addison,  N.  Y.  280. 
Adirondack,  N.  Y.  187. 
Adirondack  Mts.  188-168. 
Afton,  N.  Y.  822 
Aiden  Lair,  N.  Y.  186. 
Albany,  N.  Y.  86, 162,  829. 

Arsenal  86. 

Cathedral  87. 

Dudley  Obserratory  87« 

Erie  Basin,  86. 

Law  School  86 

Manor-Uouse  87. 

New  Capitol  86. 

St.  Peter's  87. 

State  Hall  86. 

State  Library  86. 
Albany  Lake  157. 
Albion,  N.  Y.  175. 
Alburgh  Springs,  Vt.  120. 
Alburtis,  Pa.  W3,  806. 
Alexandria,  Va.  149. 
Alexandria  Bay,  N.  Y.  169, 

1(30, 194. 
Alfired,  N.  Y.  230. 
Alhambra,  the  154. 
Allegany  Reservation  281. 
Alleghany  Mts.,  Md.  411. 
Allegheny  City,  Pa.  356. 
Allentown.  Pa.  304, 252. 
Ahiia,  N.  Y.  280. 
Ahnond,  N.  Y.  280. 
Altamont,  Md.  412. 
Altoona,  Pa.  849. 
Amagansett,  N.  Y.  68. 
Amber,  N.  Y.  200, 248. 
Amboy,  Perth  46,  257. 
Amboy,  South  28<^. 
Amenia,  N.  Y  60. 
Amherot  Id.,  Can.  198. 
AmltyviHe.  N.  Y.  47. 
Ampersand  Mt  146. 
Amsterdam,  N.  Y.  162. 
Andes,  N.  Y.  216. 
AngoUoa,  N;  Y.  280. 


INDEX. 


Annandale,  N.  J.  260. 
Anuand%le,  N.  Y.  82. 
Annapolit,  Md.  41<' 
AnnvUle.  Pa.  254. 
Anthony's  Nose        ''^ 
Anthony's  Pon«i 
Antietam,  Md.  4 
Antwerp,  N.  Y. 
Ararat,  Mt.,  Pa. 
Arch  Sprin(>:,  Pa.  bid. 
Arlingtori,  Va.  448. 
Armagh,  tA.  846. 
Arnprior,  Can.  182. 
Ashley,  Pa.  812. 
Atco,  N.  J.  294. 
Athens,  N.  Y.  84. 
Athens,  Pa.  818. 
Atlantic  City,  N.  J.  294. 
Attica,  N.  Y.  2-38. 
Auburn,  N.  Y.  200, 819. 
Audenreid,  Pa.  811. 
Aurora,  N.  Y.  207, 819. 
Ausable  Chasm  118. 
Ausable  Forks  188, 140. 
Ausable  Ponds,  N.  Y.  148. 
Avalanche  Lake,  N.  Y.  188. 
Avondale,  Pa.  878. 
Avon  Springs,  N.  Y.  229. 
Aylmer,  Can.  132. 

Babylon,  N.  Y.  47. 
Bainbridge,  N.  Y.  322. 
Bald  Eagle  Valley  348. 
Bald  liakes,  Can.  191. 
Ballston  Spa.  N.  Y.  94. 
Baltimore,  Md.  394. 

Athenseum  398. 

Battle  Monument  897. 

Calvert  Station  398. 

Cathedral  396. 

City  Hall  397. 

Druid  Hill  Park  402. 

Exchange  400. 

Federal  Hill  404. 

Fort  McHenry  404. 

Franklin  Square  402. 

Greenmount  Cem.  403. 

Historical  Society  898. 

Hospitals  404. 


Baltimore,  Md. 

Loudon  Park  Cem.  401. 

Loyola  College  888. 

Maryland  Institute  400. 

Masonic  Temple  886. 

Mt.  Vernon  Church  880. 

Odd  Fellows'  Mon't  401. 

Patterson  Park  401. 

Peabody  Institute  880. 

St.  Ignatius  898. 

St.  Paul's  398. 

Tunnels,  the  895. 

Unitarian  Chureh  889. 

Washington  Mon.  899. 
Barclay,  Pa.  818. 
Bamegat  Beach,  N.  J.  201. 
Barnes's  Olen,  N.  Y.  206. 
Barren  Id.,  N.  Y.  45. 
Barrytown,  N.  Y.  82. 
Bartlett's,  N.  Y.  146. 
Bash  Bish  Falls  60. 
Basking  Hidge.  N.  J.  260. 
Batavia.  N.  Y.  176, 176, 208. 
Bath,  N.  Y.  44,  229. 
Bath  Id.,  N.  Y.  179. 
Batsto,  N.  J.  292. 
Battle  Id.,  N.  Y.  217. 
Bay  Pond  140. 
Bayport,  N.  Y.  48. 
Bay  Ridge,  N.  Y.  44. 
Bay  Shore,  N.  Y.  48. 
Bay  Side,  N.  J.  292. 
Beach's  Lake,  N.Y  152,167. 
BearMt.,N.  Y.  72. 
Beauhamois,  Can.  199. 
Beaver  Lake  157. 
Beaver,  Pa.  362. . 
Beaver  Falls,  Pa.  362. 
Beaver  Meadow  Falls  148. 
Beaverton,  Can.  191. 
Bedford,  N.  Y.  69. 
Bedford  Springs,  Pa.  847i 
Beede's  Falls,  N.  Y.  143. 
Beeren  Id.,  N.  Y.  84. 
Beesley's  Point,  N.  J.  297. 
Bellaive,  0.  415. 
Belfort,  N.  Y.  157. 
Bellefionte,  Pa.  848. 
BeUeviUe,  N.  Y.  160. 


11 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


5< 


1.0 


1.1 


U£  |2B     |2.5 

2.0 


11.25  II  1.4 


1^ 
1.6 


% 


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y 


y^ 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


m 


\ 


^\ 


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\\ 


<> 


^  >.    '^rl\ 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14SS0 

(716)  872-4503 


,.<^. 


1^  4^ 


o^ 


454 


INDEX. 


Bellport,  N.  T.  48, 61. 
BellTale  Mts.,  N.  Y.  221. 
Beloeil  Mt.,  Can.  121. 
BelpT«,  0.  414. 
BeMdere,  N.  J.  299. 
Belvidere,  N.  T.  280. 
Benvenue  846. 
Benwood,  W.  Ys.  416. 
Bergen  Cut,  N.  J.  264. 
Bergen  Point,  N.  J.  249. 
Bergen  Tunnel  220. 
Berkeley  SpringM,  W.  Ya. 

411. 
Bemice,  Pa.  818. 
Bethel,  N.  Y.  224. 
Bethlehem,  Pa.  801, 820. 
Beverly,  N.  J.  287. 
Big  Clear  Pond  147. 
Big  Falls  141. 
Big  Mooee  Lake  166. 
Big  Stream,  N.  Y.  218. 
Big  Wolf  Pond  149. 
Bingen,  Pa.  801. 
Binghamton.  N.Y.  226,  822. 
BirdRboro',  Pa.  832,  SSI. 
Birmingham,  Pa.  866. 
Birmingham  Falls  118. 
Black  Brook  188. 
Black  Chasm  Falls  98. 
Blackhead  Mt.  98. 
Black  Lake,  N.Y.  196. 
Black  Mt.  108. 
Black  Bock,  N.  Y.  286. 
BlackweU's  Id  ,  N  Y.  86. 
Bladensburg,  Md.  444. 
BlairsTille,  Pa.  862. 
Blood's,  N.  Y.  203, 229. 
Bloomfield,  N.  J.  289. 
Bloomfield,  Pa.  846. 
Bloomingdale  1^,  147. 
Blooming  GroTe  Park  224. 
Bloomsburg,  Pa.  872. 
Blossburg.  Pa.  229. 
Blue  Mt.  148. 

Blue  Mt.  Lake  152, 186, 161. 
Bluff  Point,  N.  Y.  384. 
Boiling  Spring.  Pa.  876. 
Bolton,  N.  Y:  108. 
Bombay  Hook,  Del.  892. 
Boonton,  N.  J.  240. 
BoonTille,  N.  Y.  162, 166. 
Boquet  Mts.,  N.  Y.  116. 
Bordentown,  N.  J.  288. 
Boreas  Pond  187, 148. 
Boreas  Spires  187, 144. 
Bosom  Bay,  N.  Y.  109. 
Boston  Comer,  N.  Y.  60. 
Bound  Brook,  N.  J.  260. 
Bower's  Beach,  Del.  898. 
Bowie, -Md.  419. 
Bowmanville,  Can.  191. 
Bradford,  Pa.  281. 
Brady's  Bend,  Pa.  868. 


Bnmehport,  N.  Y.  884. 
Brandon,  Tt.  102 
Brandywine  Springp    Del. 

891. 

Braiidywine.  the  886. 
Brant  Lake  184. 
Brantingham  Lake  166. 
Brasher  Falls,  N.  Y.  128. 
Brewster's,  N.  Y.  60. 
Bricksburg,  N.  J.  291. 
Bridesburg,  Pa.  286. 
Bridgeport,  Pa.  866, 874. 
Bridgeton,  N.  J.  292, 296. 
BridgeTiUe,  Del.  898. 
Brigantine  Beach  296. 
Brighton,  N.  Y.  171. 
Brilliant,  Pa.  868. 
Bristol,  Pa.  261, 288. 
Broad  Top  City  847. 
Brockport,  N.  Y.  176.  ' 
BrockTlUe,  Can.  182, 196. 
Brocton,  N.  Y.  286, 861. 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y.  88. 

Acad,  of  Desfgn  41. 

Atlantic  Bocks  40. 

Ba>  Ridge  44. 

Court  House  41. 

Cypress  Hills  42. 

Greenwood  Cem.  48. 

Holy  Trinity  41. 

Mercantile  Lib.  41. 

Navy  Yard  40. 

Plymouth  Church  41. 

Prospect  Park  42. 

Tabernacle  4Si. 

Washington  Park  41. 
Brookside,  Pa.  884. 
BrookTille,  Pa.  868. 
Brookwood  Point  826. 
Brown's  Tract  166, 167. 
Buckingham,  Can.  182. 
Bndd's  Lake,  N.  J.  241. 
Bufhlo,  N.Y.  283,176. 

Arsenal  286 

Cathedral  284. 

Brie  Canal  286.  - 

Fort  Porter  284. 

Insane  Asylum  286. 

Park  286. 

St.  Michael's  286. 

St.  Paul's  234. 

Terrace,  the  284. 
Burdick's  Glen  206. 
Burlington,  N.  J.  287. 
Burlington,  Yt.  116. 
Burning  Spring  188. 
BushkiU,  Pa.  &4. 
Bush  RiTer,  Md.  889. 
Bustleton,  Pa.  261. 
Butler,  Pa.  SBH. 
Buttermilk  Creek  206. 
Buttermilk  Falls  72. 
Buttermilk  Falls  161. 


Oaeapon  Mts.  411. 
Caldwell,  N.  Y.  104, 184. 
Caledonia,  N.  Y.  208. 
Caledonia  Springs,  Ckn.  18S 
CalUcoon,  N  Y.  224. 
Cambridge,  Md.  894. 
Cambridge,  N.  Y.  108. 
Camden,  Del.  898. 
Camden,  N.  J.  286. 
Camden,  N.  Y.  169. 
Camel's  Hump  Mt.  142. 
Canadice  Lake,  N.  Y.  229. 
Can^joharie,  N.  Y.  164. 
Canandaigua,  N.Y.  202. 884. 
Canandi^na  Lake  208. 
Canarsie,  N.  Y.  47. 
Canasen^  Falls  168. 
Canaseraga  Yalley  280. 
Canastota,  N.  Y.  168. 
Canoe  Place,  N.  Y.  62. 
Canoga,  N.  Y.  207. 
Canonsbuig,  Pa.  868. 
Canton,  N.  Y.  161. 
Cape  Henlopen,  Del.  898. 
Cape  May,  N.  J)  297. 
Cape  Tincent  160, 192, 194. 
Carbondate,  Pa.  821. 
Cardiff  248. 
Carleton  Id.  198. 
Carlisle,  Pa.  874. 
Carlisle  Springs,  Pa.  876. 
Carlstadt,  N.  J.  220. 
Carmel,  N.  Y.  60. 
Carroll's  Jd  ,  Md.  889.. 
Carthage,  N.  Y.  167. 
Cascade  Bridge  226. 
Castle  Phllipse  67. 
Castleton,  Yt.  102. 
Catasauqua,  Pa.  806, 820. 
Catawlssa,  Pa.  886. 
Catawissa  Talley  886. 
Catlin  Lake  186, 160. 
Catskill,  N.  Y.  90. 
Catskill  Mts.,  N.  Y.  90. 
Cattaraugus,  N.  Y.  281. 
Caughnawaga  120, 1^. 
Cauterskill  Cove  92. 
Canterskill  Falls  91. 
Cauterskill  Lakes  91. 
Caye,  Ball's  828. 

Howe's  328. 

Lawson's  829. 

Notliaway  828. 

of  the  Winds  180. 
Cayuga,  N.  Y.  201. 
Cayuga  Lake  208,  207. 
Cayuta  Lake  212. 
CazenoTia  Lake  168. 
CedAnnere,  N.  Y.  49. 
Cedar  Rapids  199. 
Cedarville,  N.  J.  292. 
Central  Square,  N.  Y.  217. 
CentreTiUe,  Md.  882. 


INDEX. 


455 


04,184. 


i.Can.lSS 

m. 

394. 

.108. 

i. 

}6. 

69. 

It.  142. 

«.  T.  229. 

Y.164. 

Y.  202, 884. 

ke208. 

17. 

1 168. 

ey280. 

.168. 

Y.62. 

07. 

.868. 

61. 

Del.  898. 

^297. 

»,  192, 194. 

m. 

\. 
4. 

,  Pa  875. 
220. 
0. 

d.889r 
.167. 
225. 
67. 
02. 
.  805, 820. 

m. 

▼  885. 

Y.90. 

Y.281. 
20,199. 

92. 
b91. 

68  91. 


180. 
01. 

18,207. 
2. 

168. 

:.49. 

V. 

292. 

N.Y.217. 
.882. 


Chadd's  Fofrd,  Pa.  838. 
Chain  Lakes  l86. 
Chambly,  Can.  121. 
Chameleon  Falls  810. 
Champlain,  N.  Y.  126. 
Chomplain,  Luke  110. 
Chambersburg,  Pa.  376. 
Chapel  Pond  136, 148- 
Chappaqua,  N.  Y.  69, 68. 
Charlestown,  Md.  888. 
Charlestowo,  W.  Va.  410. 
Charlotte,  N.  Y.  174, 191. 
Chateaugay,  Can.  199. 
Chateaugay  Lakes  127. 
Chateaugay  Woods  126. 
Chatham  4  Corners  61, 88. 
Chats  Lake,  Can.  182. 
Chaumont,  N.  Y.  160. 
Chaumont  Bay  160. 
Chautauqua  Lake  287, 861. 
Cha^  Lake  120, 127. 
Cheat  RiTer  Valley,  \f.  Ya. 

413. 
Cherry  Valley,  N.  Y.  827. 
Cherry  Valley,  Pa.  244. 
Chester,  N.  J.  241. 
Chester,  N.  Y.  222. 
Chester,  Pa.  886. 

Chestertown,  Md.  892. 

Chestertown,  N.  Y.  181 

Chestnut  HiU  284, 285. 

Chimney  Id.  197. 

Chimney  Point  114. 

Chimney  Point  Qulf  166. 

Chippewa,  Can.  184. 

Chittenango,  N.  Y  168. 

Clarkesboro'N.  Y  161. 

Clarksburg,  W*.  Va.  414. 

ClarkesTiUe,  N.  Y  829. 

Claverack,  N.  Y.  83 

OlaysTiUe,  W.  Va.  414. 

Clayton,  N.  Y.  159, 194. 

Clearfield,  Pa.  348. 

Clear  Pond,  N.  Y.  136. 

Clermont,  N  Y  82. 

Cleveland,  N.  Y.  217. 

Cliffoid  FaUs,  N.  Y.  142. 

CUfton  Heights,  N.Y.  46. 

Clifton  Iron  Mines  160. 

CUfton  Springs,  N.  Y.  202. 

Clinton,  N.  Y.  216. 

CUnton  Prison  120. 

Clost»r,  N.  J.  220. 

Clyde,  N.  Y.  170. 

Coalport,  Pa.  310. 

CoatesTille,  Pa.  837.  840. 

Cobble  HUi,  N.  Y.  141. 

CobleskUl,  N.  Y.  326. 

Cobourg,  Can.  191. 

Cochecton,  N.  Y.  224. 

Codorus  Valley,  Pa.  878. 

Cohoe8,^N.  Y.  98. 

Colchester,  N.  Y.  215. 


Colden,  Lake  188. 
C.  Id  Spring,  N.  Y.  60,  75. 
Cold  Spring,  N.  J.  297. 
College  Point,  N.  Y.  66. 
Colliers,  N.  Y.  828. 
Collins'  Beach,  Del.  892. 
Colton,  N.  Y.  148. 
Columbia,  Pa.  877,  887. 
Columbia  Springs,  N.  Y.  Sa 
Communipaw,    N.    J.   88, 

249. 
Gomo,  Can.  183. 
Conesus  Lake,  N.  Y.  229. 
Coney  Island,  N.  Y.  44. 
Conneaut  Lake,  Pa.  288. 
Conneautville,  Pa.  832. 
Connellsville,  Pa.  834. 
Gonahohocken,  Pa.  881. 
Continental  Village,  N.  Y 

71. 
Constantia,  N.  Y.  217. 
Constitution  Id.,  N.  Y.  76. 
Cooperstown,  N.  Y.  828. 
Gopake,N  Y.  00. 
Copenhagen,  N.  Y.  157. 
Coplay,  Pa.  806, 820. 
Corey's,  N.  Y.  149. 
ComeU  University  205. 
Coming,  N.  Y.  W8. 
Cornwall,  Can.  198. 
Cornwall,  N.  Y.  76,  221. 
Cornwall  Ore  Banks  263. 
Corry,Pa.830,237.  860. 
Cortland,  N.  Y.  248. 
Cossayuna  Lake  108. 
Coteau  du  Lac  199. 
Cove,  the  846. 
Covert,  N.  Y.  207. 
Cow  Rock,  Pa.  864. 
Cox's,  N.  Y.  188, 147. 
Coxsackie,  N.  Y.  84. 
Cozzens'  Hotel  72. 
Cranberry  Lake  149, 160. 
Crane  Mt.,N.Y.  184. 
Crawford  Junction  215. 
CresRon  Springs,  Pa.  860. 
Crisfield,  Md.^. 
Croghan,  N.  Y.  157. 
Crom  Elbow,  N.  Y.  80. 
Cro'  Nest,  N.  Y.  76. 
Crosbyside,  N.  Y.  107. 
Croton  Aqueduct  69. 
Croton  Point  69.    . 
Crown  Point,  N.  Y.  114, 186 
Cruger's,  N.  Y.  69. 
Cruger's  I&land  82. 
Crystal  Lake,  Pa.  822. 
Crystal  Springs,  N.  Y.  888. 
Cuba,  N.  Y.  281. 
Cuba  Siunmit  280. 
Cumberland,  Md.  865, 412. 
Cunningham  Castle  66. 
Curtain  Caacade  211. 


Cynthia  Island  184. 
Damascus,  Pa.  224. 
Dannemora,  N.  Y.  120. 
Dansville,  N.  Y.  280. 
Danube,  N.  Y.  166. 
Danville,  Pa.  886, 873. 
Darlington,  Can.  191. 
Dauphin,  Pa.  834. 
Dayton,  N.  Y.  281. 
Deal,  N.  J.  290. 
Dean's  Comers  81, 216. 
Deckertown,  N.  J.  215. 
Deer  Park  Hotel,  Md  418. 
Do  Kalb  Junction  160. 
Delano,  Pa.  811. 
Delaware,  N.  J.  242. 
Delaware  City,  Del.  892. 
Delaware  VaUey  228, 245. 
Delaware  Water  Gap  242. 
Delhi,  N.  Y.  216. 
Delmar,  Del ,  Md.  894. 
Denville,  N.  J.  240. 
Deposit  N.  Y.  225. 
Derry,  Pa.  264. 
Devil's  Dance  Chamber  78. 
Diameter  Rock  111. 
Diamond  Island  107. 
Dillsburg,  Pa.  874. 
Dingman's  Ferry  245. 
Dionondahowa  Palls  101. 
Dix  Peak  133, 137 
Dobbs'  Ferry,  N.  Y.  64. 
Doe  Gully  Tunnel  411. 

Dome  Island  108 
Doubling  Gap  Spiings  876^ 

Douglas,  Pa.  882. 

Dover,  Del.  893. 

Dover,  N.  J.  241. 

Dover  Plains,  N.  Y.  80. 

Downington,  Pa.  881, 840. 

Doylestown,  Pa.  801. 

Drakesvillo,  Pa.  241. 

Dresden,  N.  Y.  108, 218. 

Driftwood,  Pa.  839. 

Drowned  I^nds  111. 

Drummoudville,  Can.  184. 

Drydet,  N.  Y.  819. 

Duncannon,  Pa.  345. 

Duncan's  Id.,  Pa.  845. 

Dunderberg,  the  70. 

Dunkirk,  N.  Y.  286, 860. 

Dunmore,  Pa.  246. 


Eagle  Bay,  N.  Y.  151. 

Eagle  Bridge,  N.  Y.  106. 

Eagle  Lake  162. 

Earleville,  N.  Y.  216. 

Easton,  Md.  892. 

Easton,  Pa.  261- 

£.  Bloomfleld,  N.  Y.  20a 

K.  Cliff  164. 

E.  Hampton,  N.  T  68. 

iE.MillBtoiM  268,286. 


456 


INDEX. 


Eaton.  V%.  816. 
EbensDuig,  Pa.  861. 
Economy,  Pa.  861. 
Edge  Hill,  Pa.  800. 
EagepeUck,  N.  J.  292. 
Edrnboro\  Pa.  870. 
Edmund  Ponds  144. 
Egg  Harbor  City  294. 
ElSn  Spring,  Yt.  102. 
Einsabeth/N.  J.  266, 249. 
Elisabethport,  N.  J.  249. 
Elinbethtown  186, 141. 
Elifeabethtown,  W.  Ta.  414. 
Elk  Ridge,  Md.  416. 
Elkton,  Md.  888. 
'  EUenville,  N.  Y.  216. 
EUerslie,  N.  Y.  81. 
ElUcott  City,  Md.  406. 
Ellisburgh,  N.  Y.  169. 
Elmer,  N.  J.  296. 
Elmira,  N.  Y.  227, 888. 
ElysTille,Md.407. 
Emaufl,  Pa.  268 
Emporium,  Pa.  869, 872. 
Enfleld  Glen,  N.  Y.  206. 
Englewood,  N.  J.  68, 220.' 
Ephrata,  Pa.  886. 
Equinunk,  Pa.  224. 
Erie,  Pa.  870, 287, 862. 
Erie  Canal  286. 
Espy,  Ps.  872. 
Essex,  N.  Y.  116. 
Evansbuzg,  Pa.  288. 

FaetoryTille,  Pa.  247. 
Fairfox  Semina^,  Vh.  448. 
FairhaTen,  N.  Y.  819. 
Fairmont,  W.  Ya.  414. 
Fairmount  Park  280. 
Fairport,  N.  Y.  171. 
Fairriew,  Pa.  868. 
Falling  Waters,  Md.  877. 
Fallsburgh,  N.  Y.  216. 
Falls,  Bash  Bish.  60. 

Bastion  92. 

Beaver  Meadow  148. 

Beede's  148. 

Big  141. 

Birmingham  118. 

Black  Chasm  98. 

Boshkill  246. 

Buttermilk  72, 161, 244. 

Canaeeraga  1^. 

Cauterskill  91. 

Chameleon  810. 

Chaudi^re  181. 

Cliflbrd  142. 

Dionondahowa  101. 

Eagle  Cliff  211. 

Empire  212. 

Fltmie  206. 

Forest  204 

GeneMt  174. 


Falls,  Haines'  98. 

Hector  218*. 

High  164. 167. 

Hull's  142. 

Ithaca  204. 

King's  167. 

Leatherstocking  824. 

Marshall  244. 

Melsingah  78. 

Minisink  810. 

Minnehaha  200. 

Mongaup  224. 

Niagara  177. 

Onoko  810. 

Passaic  220 

Piercefleld  148. 

Pluto  210. 

Portage  282. 

Prospect  164. 

Pulpit  206. 

Rainbo^v  148, 210. 

Rideau  132. 

Russell  148. 

SawkUl  224. 

Sherman  164. 

SpUt  Rock  186, 142. 

Sutherland  102. 

Taughkannock  206. 

Tekaharawa  827. 

Trenton  168 

Triphammer  206. 
Fanwood,  N.  J.  260. 
Farmingdale  288, 291. 
Far  Rockaway  47. 
Fayette  Springs,  Pa.  864. 
Felton,Del.  898. 
Fenton*s  Inn  187. 
Fine,  N.  Y.  168, 160. 
Fire  Island  47. 
Fisher-s  Island  64. 
FishkiU,  N.  Y.  78. 
Flagstaff  Peak  810. 
Flemington,  N.  J.  298. 
Flume  FaUs,  N.  Y.  206. 
Flushing,  N.  Y.  66. 
FlUTanna,  N.  Y.  2Sf!. 
Folingsby's  Pond  160. 
Fonda,N.  Y.  168. 
Font  HUl,  N.  Y.  64. 
Pordham,N.Y.67. 
Forest  Falls  204. 
Forked  Lake  161. 
Fort  Ann,  N.  Y  101. 

Columbus  16. 

Covington  198. 

Delaware  892. 

Edward,  N.  Y,  101. 

Fiederiok,  Md.  410. 

George,  Can.  187. 

George,  N.  Y.  106. 

Hamilton,  N.  Y.  44, 46. 

Heniy,  Can.  102. 

LaAiy^,N  Y.46. 


Fort  Massasanta,  Can.  187. 

Mifflin,  Pa. Jsr 

Miller,  N  Y.  lol. 

Niagara,  N.  Y.  187. 

Ontario.  N.  Y.  218. 

Plain,  N.  Y.  164. 

Putnam  74. 

Richmond,  N.  Y.  46. 

Tkonderoga  110,  111,  186. 

Tompkins, N  Y.46. 

Washington,  27, 800. 

Washington,  Md. 

Whipple,  Va.  448. 

WiUiam  Henry  106. 
Fourteen-Mile  Island  108. 
Fourth  Imke  166. 
Franklbrd,  Pa.  286. 
Frankfort  Springs  862. 
FrankUn,  Pa.  8^. 
Franklin  Falls  188. 
Franklin  Furnace  216. 
Frederick,  Md.  407. 
Fredonia,N.  Y.281. 
Freehold,  N.  J.  288. 
Freemansbuig,  Pa.  262. 
Freeville,  216, 81^. 
Frenchman's  Islahd  217. 
Frenchtown,  N.  J.  299. 
Friedensville,  Pa.  808. 
Front  Royal,  Va.  410. 
FrostbuTg,  Md.  412.  ' 
Fruitland,  N.  J.  292. 
Fulton  Lakes  166, 162. 

GainesviUe,  N.  Y.  288. 
GaUlee,  Pa.  224 
Galitiin,  Pa.  860. 
Gallopes  Rapids  197. 
Gananoque,  Can.  194. 
Ganouskie  Bay  108. 
Gap,  Pa.  840. 
Garden  Id  .Can  192. 
Gardiner's  Id.,  N.Y.  66. 
Garoga  Lakes  164. 
G»i 'lion's  76. 
0         N.Y.  176. 
Q.        rt,  Pa  860. 
Qfc^^aee,  N.  Y.  280. 
Genesee  Falls,  N.  Y.  174. 
Geneseo,  N.  Y.  229. 
Geneva,  N.  Y.  202^18. 
Georgetown,  Del.  898. 
Georgetown,  D.  C.  446. 
Germantown,  Pa.  286. 
Gettysburg,  Pa.  879, 876. 
Ghent,  N.  Y.  61 
Giant  of  the  YaUey  188, 141. 
Gilead  Lake,  N.  Y.  60. 
GUesville,  Pa-  281. 
Girard  Manor,  Pa.  886. 
Glades,  the  Mar/land  412. 
Glassboro',  N.  J.  296. 
Glen  Catbedial  209. 


INDEX. 


457 


288. 


192. 
r.  Y.  66. 


ly  186, 141 

60. 


Olen  Oofre,  N.  T.  60. 

Excelsior  212. 

Hanui»212. 

HaTen200.248,819. 

Montour  212. 

Onoko,  Pa.  810. 

Watkins  208. 
Olendon,  Pa.  262. 
Glens  Fails,  N.  T.  108. 
OienTille,  N.  Y.  162. 
Gloucester,  N  J.  296. 
GloTersTiile,  N.  Y.  168. 
Gnadenbutten,  Pa.  807. 
Goat  Island,  N.  Y.  179. 
Gorge,  Ithaca  204. 
GoAhen,  N.  Y.  222. 
OouTemeur,  N.  Y.  160. 
Governor's  Island  15. 
Grafton,  VT.  Ya.  413. 
Grand  Portage,  Can.  132. 
Grassy  Point,  N.  Y.  69. 
Graveaend,  N.  Y.  44. 
Gray's  Ferry,  Pa.  386. 
Great  Bend  225, 247. 
Great  Meadows,  Pa.  866. 
Great  South  Bay  47. 
Great  Valley  831, 887, 889. 
Greece  City,  Pa.  358. 
Grecnbush,  N.  Y.  87. 
Greencastle,  Pa.  877- 
Greenfield,  N.  Y.  188. 
Green  Lakes  168. 
Gieenport,  N.  Y.  64. 
Green  Ridge,  Pa.  821. 
Greensburg,  Pa.  352. 
Greenville,  Pa.  288. 
Greenwich,  N.  J.  292. 
Greenwich,  N.  Y.  103. 
Greenwood  Lake  222, 214 
Grenadier  Island  194. 
GrenvUie  132. 
Greycourt,  N.  Y.  222. 
Gull  Islands  64. 
Gunpowder  River  889. 
Guymard,  N.  Y.  223. 
Gwynedd,  Pa.  300. 

Hackensack,  N.  J.  220. 
Uackettstown,  N.  J.  242. 
Haddonfleld,  N.  J.  294 
Hadley,N.Y.183. 
Hagerstown,  Md.  877,  407. 
Hague,  N.  Y.  ICO. 
Haines  Falls  92. 
Hamburg,  Pa.  884. 
Hamilton.  N.  Y.  216. 
Hammondsport  229, 883. 
Hammonton,  N.  J.  294. 
Hancock  226. 
Hannah's  Hill  824. 
Hanover,  Md.  415. 
Hanover,  Pa.  878. 
Harbor  HIU,  N.  Y.  60. 


Harlem,  N.  Y.  82. 87. 
Harper's  Ferty,  W.  Ya.  408. 
Harrisburg.    Pa.  842, 264. 
Harrlsonbuis,  Ya.  410. 
Harrisville,  N.  Y.  168. 
Hart's  Island  87. 
Harvey'ri  Lake,  Pa.  818. 
Harwood,  Can.  192. 
Hastings,  N.  Y.  64. 
Hatboro',  Pa.  800. 
Havana  Glen.  N.  Y.  211. 
Haverford  College  839. 
Haverstraw,  N.  Y.  69. 
Havre  de  Grace.  Md.  889. 
Hadeton,  Pa.  811, 867. 
Hccla835. 

Hector  Falls  212, 218. 
Helderbeig  Mts.  88, 329. 
Hellertown,  Pa.  801. 
Hell  Gate  37. 
Hempstead  47, 49. 
Hempstead  Bay  47. 
Henderson,  N.  Y.  169. 
Henderson,  Lake  137. 
Herkimer,  N.  Y.  165. 
Hemdon,  Pa.  368. 
HestonviUe,  Pa,  889. 
Hexenkopf,  the  ifiS^. 
High  Banks  of  the  Genesee 

233 

High  Bridge,  N.  J.  260. 
High  Bridge,  N.  Y.  27, 87. 
High  FaUs  154, 157. 

Uighgate  Springs,  Yt  102. 

Highbnd  Mills  221. 

Highlands,  the  71. 
Liighlands  of  Navesink  291 
High  Peak  93. 

Hightstown,  N.  J.  288. 

Hillsdale,  N.  Y.  60 

Hoboken,  N.  J.  88, 68. 

Hoffman's  Ferry  162. 

Hogansburgh,  N.  Y.  199. 

Hokendauqua  806. 

Holland  8^.     * 

Holley,  N.  Y.  176. 

Hollidaysburg,  Pa.  S4S. 

Holme8burg261,286. 

Homer,  N.  Y.  248. 

Homewood,  Pa.  862. 

Honeove  FaUs  208. 

Honosdale,  Pa.  224, 82L 

Hoosac  Tunnel  103. 

Hoosic  Falls  108. 

Hopatcong,  Lake  241. 

Hopewell,  N.  J.  298. 

Hornellsville,  N.  Y.  280. 

Horse-shoe  Bend  350. 

Howe's  Cave  328. 

Hubbardton,  Yt.  102. 

Hudson,  N.  Y.  83. 

Hudson  River  62. 

HuU's  Falls  142. 


HammelBtowii,  P».  2Bi> 
Hunter,  N.  Y.  93. 
Hunters  Home  189. 
Hunter's  Pass  187, 148. 
Huntingdon,  Pa.  847. 
Huntingdon  Warm  Springi 

fi47 
Huntington,  N.  Y.  60. 
Hurricane  Peak  142. 
Hyde  Park  80. 
HydesviUe,  N.  Y.  171. 
HydeviUe,  Yt.  102. 

IdlewUd  76. 
Uchester,  Md.  406. 
Ilion,  N.  Y.  166. 
Indiana,  Pa.  862. 
IndianCastle,  N.  Y.  166. 
Indian  Lake  186. 
Indian  Point  197. 
lona  Island,  N.  Y.  72. 
Iron  HiUs.I)eL  887. 
Ironton,  Pa.  806. 
Lrviueton,  Pa.  369, 869. 
Island,  Amhent  198. 

Barren  45. 

Bath  179. 

Beach  291. 

BlackweU's  86. 

Carleton  198. 

Chimney  197. 

Coney  4i4. 

Constitution  76. 

Diamond  107. 

Dome  106. 

Fire  47. 

Fisher's  64. 

Fourteen-Mile  107. 

Gardiner's  66. 

Goat  179. 

Governor's  16. 

Grand  182. 

Grenadier  194. 

GuU64. 

Hart's  37. 

lona  72. 

Long,  Can.  188. 

Long,  N.  Y.  49. 

Luna  180. 

Navy  181. 

Nuns'  199. 

Petrea  69. 

Plum  64. 

PoUopell's  76. 

RandaU's  87. 

Recluse  108. 

Shelter  64. 

Staten  46. 

Thousand  19a 

Three  Sisters  181. 

Ward's  87. 

Wolfe  193. 
Isle  Pwrot,  Can.  199. 


!;jli!- 


m 

bote  9dk  18ft. 
IsUp,  N.  T.  48. 61. 
IthMft,  N.  T.  204. 818. 
Ithaca  Gorge  a04. 

Jamakm  N.  T.  47, 49. 
Jameobarg,  N.  J.  268, 288. 
James  Run,  Pa.  810. 
JaknefltQwn,  N  Y.  287. 
Jay,  N.  T.  140. 
Jerlehp,  N.  Y.  60. 
JeromiB  Park  67. 
Jersey  City  88. 
Jersey  Shore,  Pa.  868. 
Jessup's  lianding  184. 
Jessup's  Little  Alls  188. 
John  Brown  Tract  166. 
Johnsbu^h,  N.  Y.  184. 
Johnson's  160. 
Johnstown,  N.  Y.  168. 
Johnstown,  Pa.  861. 
Jordan,  N.  Y.  170. 
Juniata  VaUey  846. 

Kane,  Pa.  860. 
Katonah,  N.  Y.  68. 
Kayaderoeseras  Yalley.N.Y. 

188. 
Keameysrille,  W.  Ta.  409. 
KeedysrUle,  Bfd.  407. 
Keene,  N.  Y.  142. 
Keene  Yallmr  188, 140, 142, 
KeescTiUe  U8, 186, 140. 
Kennett  Square,  Pa.  886. 
Kensico,  N.  Y.  68. 
Kensington,  Pa.  261, 279. 
Kenwood,  N.  Y.  86. 
Kevka  I^e  888. 
Kinderhook,  N.  Y.  84. 
King's  Falls  167. 
Kingston.  Htm.  168,   160, 

192. 
Kingston,  N..  J.  268. 
Kingston,  N.  Y.  81, 222. 
Kingston,  Pa.  878. 
Kingwood  Tunnel  418. 
Kinkora.  N.  J.  298. 
Kisco,  Mt.  69. 
Kishacoquillas  Valley  810. 
KiPkatom,  N.  Y.  91. 
Kittaning,  Pa.  868. 
Kutstown,  Pa.  268. 

Labrador  Pond  216. 
Laclcawazen,  Pa.  224. 
La&yette,  N.  Y.  248. 
Lake,  Albany  167. 

Avalanche  188. 

Bald  191. 

Beach's  162. 

Bearer  167. 

Big  Moose  166. 

Black  ipfi.. 


INDEX. 


lake.  Bine  Mt.l8M62. 
Bonaparte  168. 
Brant  184. 
Brantingham  160. 
Budd'B  241. 
Canandaigna  208. 
Cauterskfil  91. 
Cayuga  208,  207. 
CasenoTte  168. 
Chain  110, 186. 
Chats  182. 
Chautauqua  287. 
Chaqrl20. 
Golden  188. 
Conesus  JB9 
Conneaut  288. 
CoBsayuna  108. 
Cranbwrn  149, 100. 
Crotor  69. 
Crystal,  N.  Y.  167. 
Crystal,  Pa.  822. 
Dunmore  102. 
Eagle  162. 
Pondal62. 
Forked  161. 
Fulton  166. 
Oaroga  164. 
Oeorge  106. 
Gilead60. 
Green  168. 
Greenwood  222, 214. 
Harris  186. 
Harrey's  8ia 
Henderson  187. 
Hopatcons  241. 
Indian  186. 
Keuka888. 
Lewey's  164. 
Little  Tupper  149. 
Long  160.. 
Lovely  99. 
Luseme  184. 
Mabopac  69. 
Marmora  192. 
Meacham  127, 140. 
Mohegan  60. 
Mohonk  222. 
Mud  149. 
Nick's  166. 
Oneida  217. 
Onondaga  170, 248. 
Ontariol87. 
Oscawana  60, 76. 
Osceola  60. 
Owasco  201. 
Paradox  186. 
Peach  60. 
Piseco  166, 164. 
Placid  146, 189, 141. 
Pleasant,  N.  Y.  166,  162, 
168. 


Ragged  127. 
Balnbo^ 


bow  189, 140. 


Lake  Raqnette  161 ,  160, 167. 

lUcellRi. 

Rich  186. 

Rockland  08. 

Ronkonkoma  61. 

Round  140, 164. 94. 

St.  Catharine  106. 

St.  Francis  199. 

St.  Louis  188, 1S8. 

St.  Regis  189. 

Salmon  162. 

Sabnon  Trout  191. 

Sanford  187. 

Saranael89,146,148. 

Saratoga  99. 

Schroon  184. 

Schuyler  248. 

Scugog  191. 

Seneca  212. 202, 206. 

Senecawana  241. 

Shedd  162. 

Silver  149. 288. 

Stancoe  191. 

Sinnipink  72.      \ 

Skaneatelek>  20O. ' 

Smith's  167. 

Sodran  168. 

Sunday  167. 

Transparent  166. 

Tupper  148. 

Two  Mts.  188. 

Utowana  162. 

Utsyanthia  829. 

Waccabuc  60. 

Woodhull  160. 
LakefleldlOl. 
Lakeland,  N.  Y.  61. 
LakevUIe,  N.  Y.  221. 
LambertviUe  260, 298. 
Lancaster,  Can.  199. 
Lancaster,  Pa.  841, 877. 
Landisville887. 
Lansingburgh  108. 
La  Tourette  House  249. 
Latrobe,  Pa.  862. 
Laubach's,  Pa.  806, 820. 
Laurel,  Del.  894. 
Laurel,  Md.  418. 
Laurel  HUl,  Pa.  861. 
Laurel  Run.  Pa.  S21. 
Lanrelton  Hall  60. 
Lawrenceville  868. 
Lazaretto,  the  S^. 
Lebanon,  Pa.  2^. 
Lebanon  Springs  61. 
U>ed'8  Point,  N.J.  294. 
Lehighton,  Pa.  807. 
Lehigh  University  808. 
Lehigh  Water  Gap  806,820. 
Leicester  Junction  102,  111 
Leonia,  N.  J.  220. 
Le  Ray,  N.  Y.  160. 
Le  Boy,  N.  Y.  206. 


INDBX. 


459 


,166,157. 


I. 


09. 


191. 
i6,146. 


1,206. 
1. 


>1. 
21. 
298. 
90. 
1,877. 


e249. 
6,820. 


>1. 
21. 


El. 

r. 

«)8. 

•  806,820. 
102,111 


LewM,  Del. 
Lewey  Lake  164. 
Lewiibuig,  Pa.  867. 
Lewiston,  N.  Y.  187. 
Lewistown,  Pa.  846. 
liberty,  N.  Y.  21fi. 
Uck  Brook  206. 
Ligonier  TaUev  862. 
Lima,N.  Y.m 
Lineolnaon,  N.  Y.  128. 
Linwood,  Pa.  887. 
Litis,  Pa.  887. 
Little  Falls,  N.  J.  214. 
Little  FallB,  N.  Y.  166. 
Little  Forked  Lake  161. 
Little  Lake  884. 
Little  Tupper  Luke,  N.  Y. 

149,150,161. 
Little  Valley  281. 
Little  York  Lakes  248. 
Llewellyn  Park  '289. 
Lloyd's  Neck,  N.  Y.  60. 
Lock  HaTen,  Pa.  849,  868. 
Lockport,  N.  Y.  176. 
Lockport,  Pa.  862. 
Locust  Valley  60. 
Locust  Mt.,  Pa.  886. 
Lodi,  N.  J.  220. 
Logan's  Spring  846. 
Lonesome  Pond  189. 
Long  Beach,  N.J.  291. 
Long  Branch  289,  298. 
Long  Island,  Can.  188. 
Long  Island,  N.  Y.  49. 
Long  Lake  160. 
Long  Lake  Village,  186, 160. 
Long  Narrows,  Pa.  846. 
Long  Pond  Mt.  144. 
Long  Sanlt  Ripids  198. 
Loretto,  Pa.  861. 
LouisTille,  N.  Y.  197. 
Lower  St.  Regis  Lake  189. 
LowrMle,  N.  Y.  166. 
LudlowriUe  Falls  206. 
Lumberland  224. 
Luna  Island  180. 
Luzerne  Lake  104, 184. 
Lyons,  N.  Y.  171. 
Lyons,  Pa.  268. 
Lyons  Falls,  N.  Y.  166. 
Lysander  2^. 

liacauley  Pond  189. 
McConnelsburg,  Pa.  876. 
Macedon,  N.  Y.  171. 
McKeesport,  Pa.  864. 
Mackenzie's  Pond  tSd. 
Madison,  N.  J.  289. 
MagnoUa,  N.  Y.  287. 
Mabanoy  City  811. 
Mahoning  Valley  807. 
Mahopae,  Luke  68. 
Mahwah221. 


MainTttle,  Pa.  886. 
Maitland,  Can.  196. 
Maiden,  N.  Y.  82. 
Malone,  N.  Y.  m. 
Mamaroneck,  N.  Y.  66. 
Mammoth  Mound  414. 
Manayunk,  Pa.  880. 
Manchester,  N.  J.  291. 
Blanchester,  N.  Y.  202. 
Bfanhasset  Neck  60. 
Manheim,  Pa.  9SJ. 
Manlius,  N.  Y.  168. 
Bfanumuskin  297. 
Manunka  Chunk  242, 299. 
Marathon,  N.  Y.  248. 
Marcus  Hook  887. 
Marcy,  N.  Y.  168. 
Marion,  N.  J.  264. 
Marlborough,  N.  Y.  79. 
Marmora  Lake  192. 
MarriottsTille,  Md.  407. 
Martin's  139. 
Martinsburg,  W.  Va.  877, 

410. 
Massawepie  Lake  148. 
Massena  Springs  1%,  198. 
Mattawa,  Can.  182. 
Matteawan  Mts.  76,  78. 
Mattituck  64. 
Mauch  Chunk  807, 820. 
MaxweU's  Point,  Md.  889. 
May,  Cape  297. 
May's  Landing,  N.  J.  294. 
Mayrllle,  N.  Y.  287, 881. 
Meadham  Lake  127. 
Meadville,  Pa.  237. 
Mechanicsburg,  Pa.  874- 
Medford,  N.  Y.  48. 
Medina,  N.  Y.  176 
Mercer,  Pa.  362. 
Meroersburg  876. 
Metal,  Pa.  876. 
Metucben,  N.  J.  267. 
Mexico  169. 

Middleburgh,  N.  Y.  829. 
Middlebuiy,  Vt.  102. 
Middletown,  Del.  892. 
Mlddletown  N.  Y.  214, 223 
Middletown,  Pa.  842. 
Middletown,  Vt.  103. 
Mifflintown,  Pa.  846. 
Milan,  Pa.  318. 
Milford,  Del.  393. 
Milford,  N.  J.  299. 
Milford,  Pa.  228, 246. 
Millersburg,  Pa.  366. 
Millerton,  N.  Y.  60,  78. 
MUlYiUe,  N.  J.  296. 
Milroy,  Pa.  346. 
Milton,  N.  Y.  179. 
Milton,  Pa.  367. 
Mine  Gap  Bridge  886. 
Mineola,  N.  Y.  49. 


Mine  Ridge  840. 
Minerra^.  Y.  184, 185. 
Mhiisiak,  N.  1*.  215. 
Miuisink  FUli  810. 
Minnequa  Springs  888. 
Mitchell's  Cave  164. 
Modoc  OU  District  868. 
Moh^gan  Qlen  884. 
Mohegan,  Lake  60. 
Mohonk,  Lake  222. 
Moire,  N.  Y.  128. 
Monocacy ,  Md.  407. 
Monroe,  N.Y.  221. 
Montauk  Point  68. 
Mont  Glair,  214, 289. 
Monteiuma  Marshes  170. 
Montgomery,  N.  Y.  222. 
Montgoinery  Pa.  867. 
Montgomery  Place  S2. 
MonticeUo,  216. 224. 
MontoursTille  867. 
Montreal,  Can.  121, 200. 

Black  Nunnery  128. 

Bonsecours  Market  128. 

Christ  ChUTOh  Cathedral 
126. 

Court  House  128. 

Gesi^,  Church  of  the  124. 

Qny  Nunnery  126. 

Laohine  ]>lapids  126. 

McGill  CoUe«126. 

Notre  Dame  S28. 

St.  Helen's  Isle  124. 

St.  Patrick's  124. 

Trinity  Church  124. 

Victoria  Bridge  126. 

Victoria  Square  126. 
Montrose,  N.  J.  288. 
Montrose,  Pa.  816. 
Mooer's  Juitctlon  126* 
Moosebead  812. 
Moosehead  Mt,  148. . 
Moose  Pond  161. 
Moose  iUTer  166. 
Moravia,  N.  Y.  201,  819. 
Moriah,  N.  Y.  116. 
Moriches,  48,  61. 
Morrisania,  N.  Y.  67. 
Morrisburgh  197. 
Morrison's  Cove  848,  860. 
Morristown,  N.  J.  240 
Morristown,  N.  Y.  169, 195. 
MorrisviUe,  N.  Y.  216. 
MorrisTille,  Pa.  261. 
Moscow,  Pa.  246. 
Mott  Haven  67. 
MoundsTille,  W.  Va.  414. 
Mount  Airy,  Md.  407. 
Mount  Alto,  Pa.  376. 
Mount  Carbon,  Pa.  884. 
Mount  Garmel,  Pa.  811. 
MountEolly,N.J.29& 
Mount  Holly  Sfnrings  876. 


460 


IND£X. 


Mount  Jaj  812. 
BfQant  KiMO,  N.  T.  6d. 
Mount  Morrill  280. 
Mount  PlMMuit,  P».  864. 
Mount  St.  Vincent  64. 
Mount  Union,  Pa.  847. 
Mount  Vernon,  Va.  460. 
Mountain,  JEolun  106. 

Ampersand  146. 

Anthony  188. 

BelcBil  121. 

Black  108. 

Boreas  Spires  187. 

Camel's  Hump  142. 

Defianre  112. 

Bfic  Peak  186, 187. 

Elk,  Md.  406. 
\     Equinox  108. 

Giant  of  the  Vallej  141. 

Independence  118. 

Mclntyre  187. 

Marcy  188, 144. 

Merino  88. 

Minsi248.  ' 

Mitchell  291. 

Orange  289. 

OTerlook  81. 

Owl's  Head  Ifil. 

Pharaoh  186. 

PisgahaOO.. 

Prospect  106. 

St.  Regis  140. 

Schooley's  2^ 

Seward  187. 

Storm  King  76. 

Sugar  Loaf  72. 

Tammany  248. 

Taurus  76. 

Tongue  106. 

Vi«ion824. 

Wall&ce  187. 
Mountains,  Adirondack  187. 

Boquet  116, 186. 

Catoetin,  Md.  407. 

GatskUl  do. 

Helderberg  86, 829. 

Highlands  71. 

KayaderoBseras  184. 

Matteawan  76. 

Bamapo  214, 221. 

Shawangunk  76, 216, 222. 

West  161. 
Mud  Lake  149. 
Mud  Pond  187, 144. 
Muirkirk,  Md.  418. 
Muncy,  Pa.  867. 
MuMonetcong,  Mt.  261. 
MuBknt  Castle  826. 
Muskrat  Lake,  182. 
Myerstown,  Pa.  268. 

Nanu0t,  N.  T.  220. 
N^eagne  Beach  68. 


Naples,  N.T.  208, 229. 
Narrows,  the  46. 108. 
Narrows.  Longd46. 
Narrowsburg  284. 
Nash  Lake  146.   ' 
Natural  Bridge  168. 
NaumburghTN.  Y.  167. 
Naresink  Highlands,  N.  J. 

291. 
NaTy  Island,  181. 
Naiareth,  Pa.  808. 
Nesquehoning  VaU«y  820. 
Nerfa,  N.  ¥.66. 
Newark,  Del.  888. 
Newark,  N.  J.  289, 264. 
Newark,  N.  Y.  171. 
New  Baltimore  84. 
New  Berlin  216 
New  Brighton.  N.  Y.  46. 
New  Brunswick  267. 
Newburgh,N.Y.  76,221. 
Newcastle,  Del.  891. 
New  Castle,  Pa.  8@. 
Newcomb,N  Y.  186,160. 
New  Dorp,  N.  Y.  46. 
New  Durhion,  219. 
Newfoundland.  216. 
New  Hambuign  79. 
New  Hayen,  N.  Y.  168. 
New  HaTen,  Pa.  864. 
New  Palts  80, 222. 
New  Pond  142. 
Newport,  Del.  887. 
Newport,  Pa.  846. 
NewRocheUe,N.  Y.68. 
New  Scotland  829. 
New  Sufiblk.  64. 
Newton,  N.  J.  216. 
Newton  Hamilton  847. 
NewvUle,  Pa.  876. 
New  Windsor  76, 221. 
New  York  City  6. 

Acad,  of  Design  26. 

AU  Souls,  Church  of  24. 

Alms-Houses  86. 

Amusements,  7. 

Art  Collections,  8. 

Astor  Library,  21. 

Battery,  16. 

BelleTue  Hospital  86. 

Bible  House  21. 

Blackwell'B  Id.  86. 

Boulevard  26. 

Bowery,  the  18. 

Bowling  Oreen  16. 

CarmansTille  26 

Castle  Oarden  16. 

Cathedral.  New  81. 

Catholic  Protectory  87. 

Central  Park  82. 
Belvedere  84. 
Harlem  Lake  86. 
Lake  84. 


New  York  Oitr. 
Central  i  an. 

MaU8l< 

M'Oowak:'8PaM86. 

Museum  88.    ■ 

Pond  88. 

Bamble  84. 

Reserroirs  86. 

Terrace  84. 
Charity  Hospital  8& 
Church«i  9. 
City  HaU  18. 
Colosseum  26. 
Columbia  College  80. 
Cooper  Institute  21. 
Court  House  19. 
Custom  House  17. 
Bast  Biver  86. 
EloT.  RaUway  10. 
Festivals  8. 
Fifth  Avenue  28. 
Five  Points  20. 
Fortifications  46. 
Fort  Washington  27. 
Fourth  Ave.  24« 
Orace  Church  iG|. 
Grand  Central  Depot  80. 
Greek  Church  81. 
High  Bridge  27. 
Hippodrome  7, 29. 
Historical  Soc.  22. 
Hotels  6. 

House  of  Beihge  87. 
Inebriate  Asylum  87. 
Institution  for  Deaf  and 

Dumb  27. 
Jesuit  College  28. 
Juvenile  Asylum  27. 
Lenox  Library  81. 
Lunatic  Asylum  86. 
Madison  Square  26. 
Manhattan  College  26. 
Metropolitan  Museum  of 

Art  28. 
Morgue  86. 
Nassau  St.  IS. 
New  Post-OlBce  18. 
Normal  Collie  82. 
Orphan  Asylum  26. 
Penltetttiaiy  86. 
Printing-HOnse  Sq.  17. 
Quarantine  46. 
Reservoir  80. 
Roosevelt  Hosp.  81. 
St.  Alban's  81. 
St.  Oeoi^e  24. 
St.  Luke's  Hosp.  81. 
St.  Stephen's  29. 
Sub-1^!«a8ury  16. 
Temple  Emanuel  80. 
Tombs,  the  19. 
Transfiguration    Church 


1 


Pantt. 

f       * 

15. 


lege  80. 
at«21. 
19. 
el7. 

10. 

28. 
). 

46. 

ton  27. 
>A. 
28. 

1  Depot  80. 
iSl. 
!7. 
,29. 
.22. 

ige87. 
iuiu87. 
r  Deaf  and 

28. 

iiin27. 
81. 
m  86. 
re  26. 
liege  26. 
tfuMum  of 


el8. 

e82. 

n26. 

5. 

B  Sq.  17. 


>.81. 


>.81. 
h 
6. 
el  80. 

Chnxoh 


I 


New  Tock  dty. 
.    Trinity  Church  16. 

Union  Square  28. 

UniTenUy  21. 

Wall  St  16. 

Ward's  laland  87. 

Washington  Bfarket  17. 

T.  M.  0.  A.  26. 
Niagara,  Can.  186, 187. 
Niagara  Falls  U7, 197. 

Amerioan  Ikll  180. 

Battles  186. 

Bridal  Veil  182. 

Burning  Spring  188. 

CaTe  of  the  Winds  180. 

Centre  Falls  180. 

Verry  182. 

Ooat  Island  179. 

Horse-shoe  FaU  188, 184. 

Luna  Island  180. 

Lundy's  Lane  184. 

Museom  188. 

New  Susp.  Bridge  182. 

Proepeot  Park  182. 

Queenston  186. 

Bapida  179. 

Suspension  Bridge  184. 

Table  Rock  188. 

Terrapin  Tower  180. 

Three  Sisters  181. 

Whiripool  Rapids  184. 
Nick's  Luke  166. 
Nineveh,  N.  Y.  822. 
Norristown,  Pa.  831. 
North  Adams  108. 
North  Branch,  N.  J.  260. 
North  Creek,  N.  T.  136. 
North-East,  Md.  888. 
Northeast,  Pa.  286. 
North  Elba  187, 146. 
North  Hector  Point  218. 
North  Lake  166. 
North  Mt.  91. 
Northport,  N.  T.  61. 
Northumberland  867, 872. 
North  Wales,  Pa.  801. 
Norwich,  N.  Y.  216. 
Nuits,  N.  Y.  66. 
Nunda,  N.  Y.  232. 
Nun's  Island  199. 
Nyack,  N.  Y.  68,  220. 

Oakland,  Md.  4ia 

Oak  Orchard  Acid  Springs, 

N.  Y.  176. 
Oak  Point,  N.  Y.  195. 
Oatka  Yalley  283. 
Occoquan,  Ya.  461. 
Ocean  Qrove  290. 
Oceanport,  N.  J.  290. 
Odenton,  Md.  419. 
0<^ien8burgh,  N.  J.  215. 
Ogdensburg^    N.Y.  196. 


INDEX. 

Oblo^PilefaUsaaS. 
OU  Ci^  288. 860. 
Oka,  Can.  188. 
Olean,  N.  Y.  281. 
Olyphant.  Pa.  821. 
Oneida,  N.  Y.  167, 217. 
Oneida  CommuAity  217. 
Oneida  Lake  217. 
Oneonta,N.  Y.828. 
Onoko,  Glen,  Pa.  810. 
Onondaga  Lake  170. 
Onondaga  Rflserration  248. 
Ontario,  Fort  218. 
Ontario,  Lake  187. 
Opalescent  Rirer  188. 
Orange,  N.  J  289. 
Oreland,  Pa.  800. 
Orient  Point  64. 
OrilUa,  Can.  191. 
Oscawana  Lake  00, 76. 
Osceola,  Pa.  848. 
Osceola,  Lake  60 
Osgood  Pond  140. 
Oswegatchie  River  167. 
Oswego,  NY  160,217,248 
Oswego  Falls  217. 
Otego,  N.  Y.  323. 
Otisco  Lake  200,  248. 
Otisville,  N.  Y.  228. 
Otsego  Lake  826. 
Ottawa,  Can.  128. 

Cathedral  131. 

Chaudiere  Falls  181. 

Departmental    Buildings 
130. 

Dominion  Lib.  130. 

Gray  Nunnery  131. 

Parliament  Buildings  129. 

Rideau  Canal  131. 
Ottawa  River  132 
Overbrook,  Pa.  339. 
Overtook  Mt.  81. 
Overslaugh,  the  86. 
Ovid,  N.  Y.  207, 213. 
Owasco  Lake  201. 
Owl's  Head  Mt.  161. 
Oxford,  N.  Y.  216. 
Oxford,  Pa.  386. 
Oyster  Bay,  N.  Y.  60. 

Packerton,  Pa.  307. 
Painted  Post  230. 
Palatine  Bridge  16& 
Palensville  92. 
Palisades  63,  220. 
Palmyra  171. 
Pamrapo,  N.  .T.  249. 
Panther  Greek  Yalley  809. 
Panther  Gorge  144. 
Paoli,  Pa.  8^. 
Paradox  Lake  136. 
Paradox  Pond  145. 
Parcipany  240. 


481 

ParlMlNng,Pft.8IO. 
Pariienbvffg,  W.  V*.  414. 
Parker's  Landing  868. 
ParryvUle,  Pa.  807. 
Passaic  VMls  220. 
Patchogue,  N.  Y.  48. 
Patenon,  N.  J.  220, 240. 
Paulding  Manor  66. 
Paul  SoAth's  189, 148. 
Pawlet,Vt  108. 
Pawling,  N.  Y.  60. 
Peach  Lake  60. 
Peach  Oroliard  Olen  212. 
Peekskill,  N.  Y.  70. 
Pembroke,  Can.  1^  102. 
Penn  Haven  811, 821. 
Pennington,  N.  J.  296. 
Pennsburg,  Pa.  881. 
Peunsbuiy  Manor  261. 
Penn's  Mt.  888. 
Penn  Yan  218, 888. 
Penobscot,  Pa.  32L 
Pequea  Yalley  341. 
Perkasie,  Pa.  801. 
Perkiomen,  Pa.  881. 
Perryvllle,  Md.  886, 888. 
Perryville,  N.  Y.  lOB. 
Perry  Warm  Springs,  Pa. 

875,  346. 
Perth  Amboy  257, 46. 
Peterborough  192. 
Petrea  Island  69. 
Petroleum,  W.  Ya.  414. 
Pharaoh  Lake  185. 
Philadelphia,  N.  Y.  150. 
Philadelphia,  Pa.  262. 
Acad,  of  Music  275. 
Acad,   of  Nat.   SctoiMM 

275. 
Alms-Honse  274. 
Apprentices'  Lib.  268. 
Arch  ?  .  268. 
Art  Cv  M»v^ions  268. 
Broad  St  275. 
Carpenters'  Hall  268. 
Cathedral  278. 
Chestnut  St.  268. 
Christ  Church  267. 
Custom  House  268. 
Eastern  Penitential^  277. 
Fainnount  Park  SSO,  880. 
Art  GaUery  281. 
Barren  Hill  284. 
Belmont  283. 
Centennial   Exposition 

283. 
Falls  of  Schuylkill  284. 
George's  Hill  288. 
Lansdovme  282. 
Lemon  Hill  281. 
Monastery  284. 
Mt.  PleRsant  283. 
Sehuyi^dll  Navy  281. 


462 


INDEX. 


PhUitdelphk,P». 
Vahtnoant  Puk. 

SMlgelcy  28SI. 

BoUtudc  282. 

Sweet  Arier  282. 

Water  Works  280. 

WIsMhkkon  284. 

Zotilogicftl  QantoOB  282> 
FrankUa's  QntTe  267. 
Friends'  Ubrurv  268. 
Frieods'    MeetlDg*Hoiise 

267. 
Oinurd  College  277. 
Glenwood  Gemetery  286. 
Historical  Soc.  271. 
Hospital  for  Insane  274. 
Independence  Hall  269. 
Jeflerson  Medical  OoUege 

272. 
Laurel  Hill  Gem.  281 
Logan  Square  278. 
London  ColfBe  House  267. 
Market  St.  267. 
Masonic  Temple  276. 
Mercantile  Library  272. 
Mint  272. 

Mt.  Temon  Cem.  286. 
Moyamensing  279. 
Naval  Asylum  274. 
Nary  Yard  279. 
Old  Liberty  BeU  270. 
Old  Swedes'  Church  270. 
P«in  Cottage  267. 
Penn  Square  276. 
Penn.  Hospital  271. 
Pbila.  Library  270. 
Post-Offloe  260. 
St.  Mark's  278. 
St.  Peter's  268. 
St.  Stephen's  272. 
Third  St.  268. 
Treaty  Elm  270. 
Union  League  276. 
VnlTerslty  278. 
Washington  SquaM  270. 
Woodland  Cemetery  274. 
Philippi,  W.  Va.418. 
PhiUimburg,    N.    J.    261, 

Philiipsbnrg,  Pa.  848. 
Phihnont,  N.  Y.  60. 
Phflenicia,  N.  Y.  81. 
PhoenixTille,  Pa.  881. 
Piedmont,  Md.  412. 
Piercefleld  Falls  148. 
Piermont  66.  220. 
Pilgrim  Port  171. 
Pine  Bush  216. 
Pine  Orove,  Pa.  268. 
Pine  Island  222. 
Pine  Lake  164. 
Pi8ecol'!;el66,164. 
PitoliOffMtl44. 


/PlthotoCltySBO. 
Pittsburgh,  Pia  868- 

Allegheny  Arsenal  866. 

Cathedral  864. 

Court  House  864. 

Duquesne  Way  866. 

Inclined  Planes  866. 

MercanUle  Ub.  864. 

Municipal  HaU  864. 

Po8t-Offlce  854. 

S.  Side  Boroughs  866. 

TrlnUy  Church  864. 

W.  Penn.  Hosp.  866. 

Western  Routes  867. 
Pittston,  Pa.  816. 
Plaoentia  80. 
Placid,  Lake  146, 141. 
Plainfleld,  N.  J  260. 
Plattekill  Clove  92. 
Plattsburah  118, 188. 
Pleasant  Lake  149, 166, 168 
Pleasant  Valley  142 
PleasantTille,  N  Y.  69. 
Pleasure  Bay  290. 
Plumbley  Pond  161. 
Plum  Ishmd  64. 
Plymouth,  Pa.  878. 
Pochung  Mt.  216. 
Pocono  Mt.  246. 
Pohatcong  Mts.  261. 
Point-no-Point  69. 
Point  of  Rocks,  Md.  407. 
Point  Peter  228. 
Point  Pleasant  288. 
Poke-a-Moonshine  186. 
PoUopeU's  Island  76. 
Pompton  Plains  214, 240. 
Pond  Eddy  224. 
Pontiacl82. 
Popacton  Valley,  N.  Y.  216, 

226 
Pope's  Creek,  Md  419. 
Portage,  N.  Y.  282. 
Port  Allegheny,  Pa.  872. 
Port  Byron,  N.  Y.  170. 
Port  Carbon,  Pa.  886. 
Port  Chester,  VI.  Y.  68. 
Port  Clinton,  Pa.  884. 
Port  DaLbousie,  Can.  186, 

188. 
Port  DeixKit,  Md.  886. 
Port  Henry,  N.  Y.  116. 
Port  Hope,  Can.  191. 
Port  Jefferson.  N.  Y.  61. 
Port  .Terris,  228, 246. 
Port  Kent,  N.  Y.  118, 140. 
Port  Leyden,  N.  Y.  156. 
Port  Monmouth,  N  J.  291. 
Port  Norris  292. 
Port  Perry,  Can.  191. 
Port  Tobacco,  Md  419. 
Potague  Lake  221. 
Potash  (Hill)  188. 


Potsdam,  N.  T.  19B,  118, 

161. 
PottersTilU,  M.  Y.  184. 
Pottstown,  )f%.  882 
PottsTiUe,  Pa.  884. 
Poughkeepsle,  N.  Y.  70. 
Poultney,  Vt.  108. 
Pownal,  Vt.  108. 
PratUTlUe,  N.  Y.  92. 
Prescott,  Oato.  196,^128. 
Presque  Isle,  Pa.  871. 
Preston  Ponds  187. 
Princeton,  N.  J.  268. 
Principio,  Md.  888. 
Prisoners'  Isle  100. 
Prospect,  N.  Y.  164, 166. 
Prospect,  Mt.  108. 
Prospect  Point,  N.  Y.  228. 
Prospect  Bock,  Pa.  821. 81& 
Pulaski,  N.  Y.  160. 
Pulpit  Rocks,  Pa.  847. 

Quakake,  Pa.  811. 886. 
Quaker  Street  829.  : 
Quakertown  801.     ', 
Quarantine  of  N.  Y.'46. 
Queenston,  Can.  186-87. 
Quogue  48, 62. 

Ragged  Lake  127. 
Ragged  Mt.  187. 
Rahway,  N.  J.  267. 
Rainbow  Falls  148, 210. 
Rainbow  Lake  189, 140. 
Ralston,  Pa.  888. 
Ramapo  Mts.  214, 221. 
Ramapo  Valley  221. 
Randall's  Island  87. 
Rapide  de  Plat  107. 
Rapids,  Cedar  199. 

Gallopes  197. 

Lachine  190. 

Long  Sault  198. 

Whirlpool  184. 
Baquette  Lake  161, 166. 
Raquette  Pond  149. 
Raquette  RiTer  147, 149. 
Raritan,  N.  J.  160. 
Raven  Hill  141. 
Reading,  Pa.  882.  268. 
Recluse  Island  108. 
Red  Bank,  N.  J.  286,  290. 
Red  Hook,  N.  Y.  82. 
Red  Lion,  Del.  892. 
Red  Mills,  N.  Y.  197. 
Rehoboth  Beach,  Del.  898. 
Remsen,  N.  Y.  165. 
Renovo,  Pa.  368. 
Rhinebeck,  M.  Y.  81. 
Rice  Lake,  Can.  192.  _  .    ^ 

Richfield  Springs  828, »»  X^  7 
Rich  Lake  125.  *    ' 

Richland  169. 


MB,  Mi. 

I 

Y.  79. 


in. 

58. 


4,166. 

T.228. 
.821,Sia 

847. 


r  46. 

86-87. 


,210. 
,140. 

221. 


,166. 
,149. 


i68. 

36,290. 
2. 

►7. 
>el.  89& 


!1. 
2. 


Riehmond,  N.  T.  46. 
RlchvUie,  N.  Y.  208. 
Ridgeflwld  Pwk  220. 
RiJgwftv,  Ptt.  869. 
Ridley  Park,  Pa.  886. 
RiegeUTiUe,  Pa.  299. 
Rinud,  Can.  188. 
RingoM,N.J.298. 
Ringtown  836. 
Ringwood,  N.  J.  214. 
RiferhflMl,  N.  Y.  64. 
Rlf«nlde,  N.  Y.  184. 
Roaring .  pring860. 
RobeioDia,  Pa.  268. 
Rochester.  N.  Y.  171,  208, 
280. 

Charlotte  174. 

Genetee  Falls  174. 

Mt.  Hope  Cemetery  178. 

Nurseries  172. 

Powers  Buildings  172. 

UniTersity  178. 

W.  House  of  Reftige  178. 
Rochester,  Pa.  862. 
Rockaway  241. 
Rockaway  Beach  47. 
Rock  City,  N.  Y.  281. 
RockdUe,  Pa.  806. 
Rock  Dander  116. 
Rock-Enoa  Springs  410. 
Rockland,  N.  Y.  216. 
Rockland  Lake  68. 
Itock  Regio  116. 
Rocky  Hill,  N.  J.  268. 
Rogers's  Slide  100. 
Rokeby  82. 
Rome  169, 167. 216. 
Rondout,  N.  Y.  81. 
Ronkonkoma  Lake  61. 
Root's  Inn  186.  142,  148, 

144. 
Roselle,'N.  J.  249. 
Roslyn,  N.  Y.  49. 
Round  Island  160. 
Round  Uke  146, 164, 94. 
Round  Top  98, 879. 
Rouse's  Point  120. 
Rum  Hill  324. 
Rummerfleld,  Pa.  817. 
Rupert,  Vt.  108. 
RusseU  Falls  148. 
RutheiAird  Park  220. 
Rutland,  Vt.  102. 
Rye  Beach,  N.  Y.  68. 

Sabbath  Day  Point  109. 
Sackett's  Harbor  168. 
Saegertown,  Pa.  287. 
Sager's,  Pa.  837. 
Sageville,  N.  Y.  136, 162. 
Sag  Harbor,  N.  Y.  62. 
St.  Albans,  Vt  102. 
St.  Attn*,  Can.  188. 


INDEX. 

St.  Athaaasa,  Can.  ISl. 
St.  Catharine's,  Can.  186. 
St.  Francis,  Lake  199. 


St.  George's,  Del 
St.  John^s,  Can.  121. 
St.  Johnsland,  N.  Y.  61. 
St.  JohnTille,  N.  Y.  166. 
St.  Joseph.  Pa.  816. 
St.  Lottiit,  Lake  I9a. 
St.  Maiv's,  Pa.  869. 
St.  Miehael's,  Md.  892. 
St.  Regis,  N.  Y.  198. 
St.  Regis  Lake  189. 
St.  Regis  Mt.  140. 
St.  Stephen's  Collem  82. 
Salamanca,N.  Y.m. 
Salem,  N.  J.  296. 
Salem,  N.  Y.  108. 
Salem-on-Brie  861. 
Salisbury,  Md.  894. 
Salmon  Lake  162. 
Salmon  Trout  Lake  191. 
Salt  Springs,  N.  Y  169. 
Saltsburg,  Pa.  862. 
Sandburgh,  N.  Y.  216. 
Sands'  Point  60, 66. 
Sandy  Hill,  N.  Y.  108. 
Sandy  Hook  46, 289. 
Sandy  Run  800. 
Sanford  Lake  187. 
SangenriUe,  N.  Y.  164. 
Saranac  lAkes  146. 
Saratoga  Lake  99. 
Saratoga  Springs  04. 

Columbian  97. 

Congress  96. 

Crystal  97. 

Empire  98. 

Eureka  98. 

Excelsior  98. 

Geyser  99. 

Glacier  99. 

Hamilton  97. 

Hathom  97. 

High  Rock  96. 

Pa?ilion  97. 

Putnam  97. 

Seltier97. 

Star  98. 

United  States  97. 

Washington  97. 
Sargent  Ponds  162. 
Saugerties,  N.  Y.  82. 
BaTannah,  N.  Y.  170. 
Sawkill  Glen  224. 
Sayte  818. 
Sayville  48. 
Scarsdale,  N.  Y.  68. 
Schenectady,   N.   Y.   HI, 

162. 
Schenevus,  N.  Y.  826. 
Schodack,  N.  Y.  86, 88. 
jSchoharie,  N.  Y.  828. 


463 

JkboolOT«toMt.Ma. 
ichvoon  Lake  184, 100. 114. 
Sehroon  Lake  ViUage  186. 
Schuyler  Lake  248. 
SchuylerrUie,  N.  Y.  100. 
Schuylkill  Fails  284. 
SchuylkiU  HaTen  884. 
Sclpio,  N.  Y.  201. 
Scott's  144. 146. 
Scriba,  N.  Y.  160. 
Scranton,  Pa.  246, 821. 
Sougog,  Lake  191. 
8eaGirt,N.  J.  288. 
Seaford,  Del.  898. 
SeaTille,  N.  J.  297: 
Seuauous,  N.  J.  220. 
SeUnsgroTe,  Pa.  847, 8881 
SellersrUle,  Pa.  801. 
Seneca  Lake,  212, 208, 206. 
Seneca  FalU,  N.  Y.  202. 
Seneca  Potait,N.Y.  208. 
Senecawana,  Lake  241. 
Seren  Mountains  846, 846. 
Seven  Springs  Ml.  UonM 

222. 

Seward,  Mt.  187. 
Shades  of  Death  807, 816. 
Shaker  Village  61. 
Shaunondak)  Springs  410it 
Shark  RiTer,N;j7ttO.       . 
Sharon,  Pa.  862. 
Sharon  Springs  826. 
Sharpsburg.  Pa.  868. 
Shawangunk  Mti.  76,  216, 

222. 
Shawnee  Hills  244. 
Shelbume  Bay.  Vt.  116. 
Shelby  Centre  176. 
Shelter  Island  64. 
Shenandoah,  Pa.  811. 
Shenandoah  Valley,  Va.  410. 
Sherman  Fall  164. 
Shickshinny,  Pa.  878. 
Shinnecock  Bay  62. 
Shippensburg,  Pa.  876. 
Shohola,  Pa.  224. 
Short  Hills,  N.  J.  289. 
Sidney  Plains  216, 822. 
Siegfried,  Pa.  806, 820. 
Silver  Lake  149, 288. 
Simcoe,  Lake  191. 
Sing  Sing,  N.  Y.  68. 
Sinking  Spring  268. 
Sinnipink,  Lake  72. 
Sir  John's  Run  411. 
Skaneateles  Lake,  N.  Y.  200- 
Sky  Top  222. 
Slateford,  N.  J.  242. 
Slatington,  Pa.  806. 
Sleeping  Lion  826. 
Sleepy  HoUow  67, 91. 
Smith's  L^ke  167. 
Smith's,  Paul  19r,  126. 


464 


INDEX. 


Bnlth'sTalkvSie. 
fknlthtown,  N.  Y.  61. 
Bnurrna,  Del  802. 
Snow  Uill,  Md.  8M. 
Bnow  Shoe,  Pa  8i8. 
Bodui,  N.  Y.  218. 
BonMraet.  Pa.  866. 
Somen*  Point,  N.  J.  294. 
SomenrlUe  260, 296. 
8.  Ambojr  289. 
Southampton,  N.  Y.  62. 
South  Bav,  111,  16L 
8.  DanTiife,  Pa.  886. 
South  Lake  166. 
South  Mt.,  Md.  409. 
South  Mt.,N.Y.9L 
Southold.M.  Y.64. 
8.  Orange,  N.  J.  289. 
8.  Oyster  Baj  47. 
Spencerport,  N.  Y.  176. 
Spenoer'i  Olen  206 
Spencer  Springe  818. 
Speonk,  N.  Y.  68. 
Spesutla  Church,  Bid.  889. 
Spirit  Mt.  186. 
Spitfire  Lake  147. 
fipUt  Bock  116. 
SpUt  Kock  Falls  186, 142. 
Sprln^ld,  M.  J.  m 
Springfield,  N.  Y.  826. 
SpringTllle,  N.  Y.  872. 
Springs,  Acid,  N.  Y.  176. 

Alburgh,  Vt.  m 

Aton,  N.  Y.  m. 

BaUston,  N.  Y.  94> 

Bedford,  Pa.  847. 

Berkeley,  W.  Ya.  411. 

Blossbiug,  Pa.  229. 

Brandywine,  Del.  891. 

Burning,  Can.  188. 

Caledonia,  Can.  182. 

Capper,  W.  Va.  410. 

Carlisle,  Pa.  876 

Chappaqua,  N.  Y.  69. 

Cherry  Vallqr,  N.  Y.  827. 

Chlttenanso,  N.  Y.  168. 

Clifton  202. 

Columbia,  N.  Y.  88. 

CreflBon.Pa  860. 

Crystal,  N.  Y.  888. 

Deep  Rook,  N.  Y.  218. 

Doubling  Gap,  Pa.  876. 

filgln.  Tt.  m. 

Ephrata  Mt.,  Pa.  886. 

Vayette,Pa:864. 

Frwkfbrt,  Pa.  862. 

Gettysburg,  Pa.  879. 

Guymard,  N.  Y.  228. 

Hlghsate  102. 

Huntingdon  Warm  847. 

Lebanon,N.  Y.  61. 
,  LltlB,  Pa.  887.  ^ 
128,168, 


Sprlngi, 

Mlddlatown.Vt.  108. 

Mlnnequa,  Pa.  888. 

Oak  Orchard  176. 

Perry  Warm  876, 846. 

Rkhfleld,  N.  Y.  247. 

Rock-Buon,  W.  Va.  410. 

St.  Catherine's,  Can.  186. 

Salt,  N.  Y.  169. 

Sand,  Muss.  108 

Schooley's  Mt.  242. 

Shannondale  410. 

Sharon,  N.  Y  826. 

Spencer,  N.  Y.  818. 

VaUonla.N.  Y.822. 

Verona,  M.Y.  167. 

Yellow,  Pa.  882. 

York  Sulphur  878. 
Spuyten  DuyTll  68. 
8quan,N.J.288,291. 
Staats  Island  86. 
Standing  Stone,  Pa.  817. 
Stamford,  N.  Y.  81. 
Stanhope  241. 
Stanton,  Del.  887. 
Starucca  822. 
Staruoca  Viaduct  226. 
State  Dam,  N.Y.  127. 
Staten  Island  46. 
Stemmer's  Bun  889. 
SterUng,  N.  Y.  218. 
Sterling  Pond  222. 
Steubenville,  0.  868. 
Steveuspdnt  822. 
Stisslng,  N.  Y.  78. 
Stone  Arabia  164. 
Stony  Brook  Qlen  280. 
Stony  Clove  92. 
Stony  Creek,  N.  Y.  184. 
Stony  Creek,  Pa.  812. 
Stony  Creek  Ponds  149. 
Stony  Point  69. 
Storm  King  76. 
Strasburg,  Pa.  841. 
Strasburg,  W.  Va.  410. 
Stroud&burg,  Pa.  246. 
Suffem,N.  J.221. 
Sugar  Loaf  Mt.  72. 
Summit,  N.J.  2S9. 
Summit,  N.  Y.  226 
Summit,  Pa.  822, 884. 
Summit  Hill,  Pa.  809. 
SummitTllle  216 
Summit  Water  188. 
Sunbury,  Pa.  866. 
Sunday  Lake  167. 
Sunnyside  66. 
Sunset  Rock  92. 
Susquehanna,  Pa.  225. 
Sutherland  Falls  102. 
Swarthmore  College  887. 
Swedesboro',  N.  J.  296. 
Siiwny  Carry  147. 


iSyoMMt,  N.  Y.  60. 
SyracuM  168, 248. 

Taberg,  N.  Y.  169. 
Tahawus,  185, 187. 144. 
Tamanend,  Pa.'820. 
Tamaqua,  807, 809, 886. 
Tappan.N.  J.  66. 
Tftppan  Zee  65. 
Tarry  town,  N.  Y.  66. 
Taughkannock  Falls  206ii 
Tfturus,  Mt.  76. 
Tenafly,N.J.220. 
Theresa,  N.  Y.  159. 194. 
Thompson,  Pa.  2S2. 
Thousand  IslandM  198. 
Three  Sisters  Ids.  181. 
Thunnan,  N.  Y.  104, 184. 
Tkonderoga.  Fort,  M.  Y.  110^ 

Tldloute,  Pa*.  869. 
Tioga  Point,  Pa.  227. 
Tip  Top  Summit  280. 
TitusTlUe,  Pa.  859. 
TiYoli,  N.  Y.  82. 
Tobyhanna,  Pa.  246. 
Tom  Mt.  m.. 
TompkinsTllle  46. 
Tom's  IllTer  291. 
Tonawanda,  N.  Y.  208. 
Tonawanda  Reservation,  N. 

Y.  176. 
Toronto,  Can.  187. 

Normal  School  190. 

Osgoode  Hall  190. 

Queen's  Park  189. 

St.  James  Cathedral  188. 

St.  Michael's  190. 

Trinity  College  190. 

University  188. 

Volunteers'  Mon.  189. 
Torrens'  Pa.  858. 
Tottenville,  N.  Y.  46. 
Towanda,  Pa.  817. 
Transparent  lake  166. 
Treicbler,  Pa.  820. 
Trenton,  N.  J.  260. 
Trenton  Falls,  N.  Y.  158. 
Tribes'  HUl,  N.  Y.  162. 
Trout  Pavilion  107. 
Trout  Run,  Pa.  888. 
Troy,  N.  Y.  88. 
Troy,  Pa.  814, 888. 
Tmzedo  Lake  221. 
Truzton,  N.  Y.  216. 
Tuckerton,  N.  J.  29L 
TuUy,  N.  Y.  248 
TunkhaiiDock,  Pa.  S16. 
Tumcliflrs  Point  825. 
Tupper  Lake  148. 
Turner's,  N  Y.  76,221 
Tuscarora  Mt.  845. 
Tuscaxora  Bwwr.  187* 


INDEX. 


4C0 


M44. 

20. 

»,885. 


68. 

I. 
»,194. 

188. 
181. 

104, 184. 
,N.Y.110^ 


827. 

zao. 


S4a. 


.208. 
Tation,  N. 

i90. 

K). 

}0. 

drall89. 

0. 

190. 

1.189. 

46. 

166. 

). 

Y.168. 
162. 

r. 

8. 


|9L 

816. 

^. 

,221 
187. 


ToMMom  Tdlgr  84ft. 
Toiten,  N.  Y.  221. 
Tyra,  N.  Y.  202. 
Tyrone,  Fa.  848. 

Ulstei .  Pa.  818. 
Unadilla,  N  Y.  828 
IJDdercUff76. 
Union  City,  Pa.  800. 
Union  Bpringx,  N.  Y.  207. 
Unlontown,N.  J.  267. 
Uniontown,  Pa.  864. 
Upper  Leblgli,  Pa.  821. 
Upper  Saraoac  Lalie  14^ 
Utioa,  N.  Y.  216, 166,  Ifil 
UUyanthla  Laiie  829. 

Valley,  Bald  Easle  848. 

Cheat  RiTer  418 

Kisbacoquillas  846. 

Oatka^ 

Kamapo221. 

Shenandoah  410. 

of  Wyoming  821, 814,812. 
Talley  Foige,  Pa.  831. 
TaUonia  Springs  822. 
Tanderbilt^B  Landing  46. 
Tassar  College  79. 
Vergennes,  Yt.  102, 116. 
Vernon,  N.  Y.  107. 
Vemoa  Spilngpi  167. 
Verplancli's  Point  68. 
Victor,  N.  Y.  203. 
Villa  Nova,  Pa.  339. 
Vineland  293, 292. 
Volcano,  W.  Va.  414. 
Vosburg,  Pa.  817. 

Waccabuo  Lake  60. 
Waddington,  N.  Y.  197. 
Walnutport,  Pa.  820. 
Walton,  N.  Y.  215, 226. 
Wanaque,  N.  J.  214. 
Ward's  Island  87. 
Warren,  Pa.  868. 
Warrensburg,  N.  Y.  184. 
Warrior  Ridge  347. 
Warrior's  Qap  812. 
Warsaw,  N.  Y.  238. 
Warwick  Woodlands  222. 
Washington,  D.  0  ^0. 
Agriculture,  Department 

of  488. 
Army  Medical   Ifnaeum 

487. 
Arsenal  486. 
Botanical  Gardens  481. 
Capitol  426. 
Bronxe  Doors  426,  428. 
Dome  427. 
House  of  Reps.  481. 
Library  427. 
Portico  426. 

20* 


Washington,  D.  C. 
CajAtol. 
Rotunda  426. 
Senate  429. 
Statuary  llaU  480. 
Supreme  Court  428. 
Coast  Surrey  481. 
Columbian  UniT.  488. 
Congreas  421. 
Congressional  Cem.  425 
Corcoran  Art  Gallery  440. 
GoT't  Printiug-Offlce424. 
Laftvette  Square  440. 
Marine  Barracks  426. 
Masonic  Temple  4A7. 
NaTal  Obserratoty  448. 
Nary  Yard  424. 
Ordnance  Museum  442. 
Patent-Office  486. 
Post-Offlce  486. 
President's  Uouse  489. 
St.  AIoysiuH  424. 
St.  Dominic  485. 
St  John  440. 
Signal  Office  442. 
Smithsonian  Inst.  482. 
State,  Dep't  of  488,  442. 
Statues. 
Columbus  426. 
Farragut  429. 
Franklin  429. 
Freedom  427. 
Hancock  429. 
Jackson  440. 
Jeflbrson  480, 440. 
Lincoln  485 
Rawlins  448. 
Scott  4S8, 445. 
Washington  481,  448 
Treasury  Dep't  489. 
War  Dep't  442. 
Washington     Monument 

434. 
Y.  M.'c.  A.  487. 
Washington,    N.  J.    220, 

242. 
Washington,  Pa.  868. 
Washington's  Grossing  298. 
Washington  Junction  406. 
Washington's  Masonic  Caye 

410. 
Washington  Viaduct  416. 
Wassaic,  N.  Y.  60. 
Watch  Hill  48. 
Waterford,  N.  Y.  94. 
Waterford,  Pa.  869. 
Water  Gap,  Delaware  242. 
Lehigh  306.  320. 
MainviUe  386. 
Waterloo,  N.  J.  215,  241. 
Waterloo,  N.  Y.  202. 
Watertown,  N.  Y.  158, 169 
Watkins  Glen  208, 388. 


WattrfUei,  N.  T.  88 
Waferley,  N.  J.  866. 
WaTerly,N.  Y.227. 
Wawayanda216,222. 
W^nesboro',  Pa.  876. 
Waj  nesburg.  Pa.  810. 
WeatherbySU. 
Wuedsport,  N.  Y.  170. 
Weebawken,  N.  J.  68. 
Welssport,  i>a.  807. 
Wellsboro*.  Pa.  229. 
Wenonah  296. 
W.  Albany,  N.  Y.  161 
W.  Bloomfleid  208. 
Westbury  50. 
West  Chester,  Pa.  840. 
Weotfleld,  N.  J.  260. 
Weetfleld,M.  Y.  46. 
W.  IMttston,  Pa.  378. 
West  Pohit  72, 221. 
Westport,  N.  Y.  116, 141. 
W.  Rwhm 
W.  Rutland,  Vt  102. 
W.  Troy,  N.  Y.  89, 98. 
WestTllle,  N.J.296. 
Wheeling,  W.  Va.  868, 416. 
Whirlpool  Rapids  184. 
Whitefltce  Mt.  140, 189. 
Whitehall  101,  111. 
Whitehall,  Pa.  806. 
Whiteharen  812, 821. 
Whitehouse,  N.  J.260. 
Whiting's,  N.J.  292, 298. 
White  Plains,  N.  Y.  68. 
White  Spot,  Pa.  888. 
Whitestone,  N.  Y.  66. 
Wilcox,  Pa.  868. 
Wildercliff81. 
Wild  Rose  Point  326. 
Wilkes-Barre  812, 821, 878. 
Wilkins  Point  56. 
Williamsburg,  Pa.  860. 
Williamsport,  Md.  877. 
WilliamRport,  Pa.  867. 
Williams's  Rock  104. 
Williamstown,  Mass.  108. 
Williamstown  159. 
WilUng,  N.  Y.  280. 
Wihnington,  Del  890, 887. 
Wihnington,  N.  Y  140. 
Wilmington  Pass  141. 
Winchester,  Va.  410. 
Windfiill,  the  148. 
Wind  Gap,  Pa.  808. 
Windham,  N.  Y.  92. 
Winfleld  49. 

Winslow,  N.  J.  292, 294. 
WolfGreek,N.  Y.184. 
Wolf  Creek  GI      288. 
Wolf  Island  193. 
Womelsdorf,  Pa.  268. 
Woodbury,  N.  J.  296. 
WoodcliffFaUa2aO. 
DD 


466 


INDEX. 


WoodUwn  CSemetenr  67. 
Woodflburgh,  N.  Y.  47. 
Woodside,  N.  Y.  48. 
WoodTiUe,  N.  Y.  208. 
Worcester,  N.  Y.  826. 
WrightSTille,  Pa.  878. 


Wnrtaboro*,  N.  T.  216. 
MTyalusiDg,  Pa.  817. 
Wyoming,  N.  Y.  288. 
Wyoming,  Valley  of  814, 

812,821. 
Wysauking,  Pa.  817. 


Taphank,  N.  T.  61. 
YatesrUle,  N.  Y.  164. 
Yellow  Springs,  Pa.  882. 
Yonkera,  N.  Y.  64. 
York,  Pa.  878, 882. 
York  Sulphur  Springs  878. 


Index  to  Hiitorioal  Alluiioni. 


m 


l!    V 


Albany,  N.T.  87. 
Alburgh,  Yt  120. 
Allentown,  Pa.  806. 
Annapolis,  Md.  418. 
Anthracite  Coal  Discorery 

808. 
Arnold's  Treason  67,  76. 

Baltimore,  Md.  405. 
Battle  of  Antietam  409. 

Bennington  103. 

Brandy  wine  888. 

Chippewa  186. 

Chiysler's  Farm  198. 

Fort  Erie  286. 

Fort  Mifilin  286. 

Fort  Montgomenr  72. 

Fort  Stanwix  167. 

Fort  Ticonderoga  112. 

Fort  Washington  27. 

Germantown  285. 

Gettysburg  880. 

Long  Island  89. 

Lundy's  Lane  186. 

Monmouth  288. 

Paoli  839. 

Pittsburgh  119. 

Princeton  261. 

Queenston  Heights  186. 

South  Mountain  409. 

Stillwater  100. 

Stone  Arabia  164. 

Trenton  261. 

White  Plains  58. 
Berkeley  Springs,  West  V. 

411. 
Bethlehem,  Pa.  801, 804. 
Binghamton,  N.  Y.  226. 
Braddock's  Defeat  858. 
Buf&lo,  N.  Y.  286. 
Burlington  117. 

Canandtdgua  384. 
Cape  May  297. 
Carlisle,  Pa  875. 
Catskill  Mts.  90. 
Caughnawaga,  Can.  199. 
Chambersburg,  Pa.  876. 
Chambly,  Can.  121. 
Cb«st«r,  Pa.  887. 


Chimney  Island  197. 
Cincinnati,  Society  of  the 

78. 
Crown  Pohit,  N.  Y.  114. 

Delaware  Talley  245. 
Duncan's  Island,  Pa.  845. 

Ea«thampton,  N.  Y.  58. 
Easton,  Pa.  252. 
Elizabeth,  N.  J.  256. 
Elmira,  N.  Y.  228. 
Ephrata,  Pa.  886. 
Erie,  Pa.  871. 
Essex,  N.  Y.  115. 

Fort  Leboenf,  Pa  870. 
Fort  Mifflin.  Pa.  286. 
Fort  Necessity,  Pa.  865. 
Fort  Schlosser,  N.  Y.  181. 
Fort  Ticonderoga,  N.Y.  112. 
Fort  Venango,  Pa.  859. 

Gardiner's  Island  55. 
Geneva,  N.  Y.  214. 
Gettysburg,  Pa.  880. 
Gnadenhutten,  Pa.  807. 

Harper's  Ferry,  W.  Va.'408. 
Harrisburg     Pa.  848. 
Hempstead,  N.  Y.  49. 
Horse-Shoe  Falls,  N.  Y.  181. 
Hudson,  N.  Y.  84. 

Jamaica,  N.  Y.  49. 
Jersey  City,  N.  J.  88. 
John  Brown's  Tract  155. 
Johnstown,  Pa.  851t 

Kingston  81. 

Lake  Champlain  110. 
Lake  Geoige  105 
Lancaster,  Pa.  841. 
Lewes,  Del.  893. 
Lloyd's  Neck,  N.  Y.  50. 
Long  Island,  N.  Y.  49. 
Luzerne  Lake,  N.  Y.  134. 

Bfartiashurg,  W.  Va.  410. 


Mason  and  Dizon^s  line  888 
M'Gowan's  Pass,  N.  Y.  85. 
Montauk  Indians  58. 
Montreal.  Can.  122. 
Moravians,  the  801, 804. 
Morgan  Affair,  the  175. 
Mormons,  the  171, 202. 
Morristown,  N.  J.  240. 
Mount  Holly,  N.  J.  298. 

Nazareth.  Pa.  808. 
Newark.  N.  J.  256. 
Newburgh  Plot,  the  77. 
New  Brunswick,  N.  J.  258. 
New  York  City  18. 

Odd  Fellows  401. 
Ogdensburgh,  N.  Y.  196. 
Onondaga  Indians,  the  170, 

248. 
Oswego,  N.  y.  218. 
Ottawa,  Can.  129. 
Oyster  Bay,  N.  Y.  50. 

Patriot  War  181, 196. 
Peekskill,  N.  Y.  71. 
Penn^lvania   Dutch,    the 


Penn  Yan,  N.  Y.  884. 
Perth  Amboy,  N.J.  257. 
Petroleum  Development  860. 
PhiladelphU  265. 
Pittsburgh.  Pa.  856. 
Poughkeepsie,  N.  Y.  80. 
Princeton  College  258. 

Reading,  Pa.  883. 
Red  Bank,  N.  J.  287. 
Rochester,  N.  Y.  176. 
Rock  Regio  115. 
Rome  l&t. 

Sabbath  Day  Point,  N.  T. 

109. 
Sackettfs  Harbor,  N  Y.168. 
Sag  Hafbor,  N.  Y.  52. 
St.  Johns,  Can.  121. 
St.  Regis,  N.  Y.  198. 
Salem,  N.  J.  296. 
Saratoga  99. 


INDEX 


467 


14. 
.882. 


ngsSTS. 


Schodack,  N.  T.  86. 
Sohroon  Lake,  N.  T  181. 
Scranton,  Pa.  246. 
Seneca  Lake  218. 
Shakers,  the  61. 
Shelter  Island,  N.  T.  64. 
Southampton,  N.  Y.  62. 
Springfield,  N.  J.  289. 
Staten  Island,  N.  Y.  45. 
Stony  Point,  N.  Y.  68. 
Son  Inn  802. 


Swedkh  Colonlei  886, 891 
Syiacase,N.  Y  170. 

Tammany  Ring  19. 
Tioga  Point  818. 
Treaty  Elm,  Pa.  265, 279 
Tribes'  Hill,  N  Y.  162. 
Troy,  N.  Y.90. 
Tuckerton,  N.  J.  291. 


Yalooor  Island,  N.  Y.  118.   Yonken,  N.  Y.  64. 


Valley  Form,  Pa.  881, 266. 
Valley  of  Wyoming  814. 

West  Point,  N.  Y.  72. 
West  Virginia  414.  415. 
Whitehall,  N.Y.  102. 
Wilkes>Barre,  Pa.  818. 
Wihnington,  Del.  891. 
Wyalu^,  Pa.  817. 


I  line  888 
N.  Y.  86. 
68. 
2. 

1,804. 
»176. 
,202. 
240. 
1.298. 


he  77. 
K.  J.  268. 
1. 


Y.196. 
8,  the  170, 


.60. 

196. 

1. 

Itch,    the 

884. 
J.  267. 
pment8e0. 

66. 

Y.80. 

268. 


|287. 

176. 


nt,  N.  Y. 

N  Y.168. 

.62. 

21. 

98. 


Index  to  Biographioal  Allnsioni. 


Armstrong,  John  82. 
Audubon^  John  James  26. 
Bonaparte,  Joseph  167,  288. 
Lreck,  Samuel  282. 
Brown,  John  145. 
Buchanan,  James  842, 376. 
Burr,  Aaron  269,  63. 
Champlain,  Samuel  de  110. 
Clinton,  De  Witt  44. 
Cooper,  JamesFenimore  323. 
De  Soto,  Fernando  17  . 
Drake,  James  Rodman  67. 
Edwards,  Jonathan  259. 
Farragut,Admiral  D.  G.  67. 
Fen^lon,  Archbishop  193. 
Fulton,  Robert  842.  83. 
Oalitzin,  Father  351. 
Girard,  Stephen  278. 
Greeley,  Horace  69. 


Hale,  Nathan  60. 
Hicks,  Ellas  60. 
Hudson,  Henry  68. 
Jay,  John  69. 
Johnsons,  the  163. 
Kearny,  Philip  256. 
Kidd,  Cfapt.  55. 
Kosciuszko  74. 
Livingstons,  the  82. 
MoiTis,  Robert  281. 
Mosrises,  the  57. 
Morse,  S.  F.  B.  80. 
Paine,  Thomas  68. 
Peaboic^,  George  400. 
Penn,  John  266, 282. 
Penn,  limiiam  266. 
Philipses,  the  67. 
Piquet,  Abb6  196. 
St  Clair,  Arthur  862. 


Index  to  Qnotationi. 


Seward,  T^lliam  Hen^  20L 
Sherman,  Rct.  John  163. 
Smith,  Joe  171. 
Steuben,  Baron  78. 
Stewart,  A.  T.  29. 
Tammany  248. 
Taylor,  Bayard  386. 
Van  Buren,  fifartin  84. 
Van  Cortlandts  69. 
Wadsworth,  Gen.  J.  S.  280. 
Washington.  Geone  461. 
Wayne,  Anthony  840. 
West,  Bei^amin  887. 
Williams,  Eleaanr  190. 
Willis,  Nathaniel  P.  76. 
Wool,  Gen.  J.  E.  77. 
Woolman,  John  298. 
Worth,  Gen.  W.  J.  84. 
Ziniondorf,  Count  814. 


Bancroft,  George  413. 

Bremer,  Fredrika  117, 118. 

Bryant,  William  CuUen  828. 

Campbell,  Thomas  314. 

Chateaubriand  71. 

Cheever,  George  Barrell  207. 

Cooper,  James  Fenimoie  324, 826. 

Curtis,  George  William  6a 

Dickeus,  Charles  72, 178. 

Everett,  Edward  85. 

Greenwood,  Grace  211. 

Ualleck,  Fiti  Greene  57. 

Hammond  146. 148, 160. 

Hennepin,  Fatner  185. 

Uowells,  William  Dean   180,   181,  182, 

184 
Hudson's  Log-book  13, 64,  77, 86. 
Irving,  Washington  68, 65,  66, 68, 70,  71, 

78,  823. 
Jeflbrson,  Thomas  408. 
linooln,  Abraham  880. 
LoQgfbUow,  Henry  Wadsworth  802. 


Lossing,  Benson  John  104, 118, 186, 881. 

Mather,  Cotton  49,  62, 66. 

Moore,  Tom  133, 283. 

Morris,  George  P.  76. 

Parkman,  Francis  129. 

Penn,  William  257. 

Percival,  James  Gates  212. 

Putnam,  Israel  106. 

Richardson,  A.  D.  232. 

Seward,  William  Henry  201. 

Sigourney,  Lvdia  H.  H.  68. 

Silliman,  Prof.  168. 

Stedman,  E.  C.  223, 224, 283. 

Stone,  William  L.  213, 245, 246, 818, 816, 


Taylor,  Bayard  211, 885. 
Townsend,  George  Alflred  419. 
Washington,  George,  77, 240, 881. 
Webster,  Daniel  178,  8^,  431. 
Whitefleld,  George  64. 
Willis,  NathantelPMrkmr  60, 158, 164, 166, 
215,228,826. 


i68 


INDEX 


Xndn  to  Bailroadi. 


Adirondaek  188. 

Albany  and  SuKquehanna  820, 82S. 

Allegheny  Valley  867. 

Allentown  Linear. 

AnnapoUsand  Elk  Ridge  416. 

Atlantic  and  Great  Western  287. 

Bald  Bagle  VaUey,  848. 

Baltimore  and  Ohio  406. 

Baltimore  and  Potomae  410. 

Belvidere  208. 

Buffi&lo,  Gorry  and  Pittflburgh  861. 

Buflhlo.M  Y.,  and  Philadelphia  STL 

Camden  and  Amboy  287. 

Camden  and  Atlantic  294. 

CatawiBsa  885. 

Cayuga  Lake  208. 

CaaenoTia  and  Canastota  168. 

Central  of  If .  J.  249. 

Central  Vermont  102,  HI. 

Chartiers  868. 

Chester  VaUey  881, 840; 

Cleyeland  and  Pittsburgh  862. 

Colebrookdale  882. 

Cooperstpwn  and  SuBquehannaVaIlOT828. 

Coming,  Gowanosque  and  Antrim  Wd. 

Cumberland  Vall^v  878,  410. 

Cumberland  and  Pennsylvania  412. 

Danville,  Hadeton  and  Wilkes-Barre  867 

Delaware  890. 

Delaware,  Lackawanna  and  Western  288. 

Dorchester  an-*.  Delaware  898. 

Dunkhrk,  Allegheny  Valley  and  Pittsbnigh 

860. 
Dutchess  and  Columbia  78. 
Kastem  Shore  894. 
East  Pennsylvania  258. 
Ebensburg  and  Cresson  861. 
Erie  219. 

Erie  and  Pittsburgh  862. 
Flushing  apd  North  Sid«  65. 
Fonda,  Johnstown  and  OlovenviUe  166. 
Freehold  and  Jamesborg  268, 288. 
Orand  Trunk  121. 
Hackensack  220. 
Harlem  66. 
Harlem  Extension  61. 
Hempfleld  868. 
HoUidaysburg  849. 
Huntingdon  and  Broad  Top  847. 
Indiana  Branch  852. 
Ithaca  and  Athens  818. 
Junction  and  Breakwater  896. 
KeaC  County  892. 
Lackawanna  and  Bloomsburg  872. 
Lake  Ontario  Shore  218. 
Lake  Shore  and  Michigan  Southern  286. 
Laurel  Fork  and  Sand  Hill  414. 
Lebanon  Valley  268. 
Lebanon  and  Tremont  268 
Lehigh  and  Susauehanna  819. 
Lehigh  TaU«y  800. 


Lewlstown  846. 
Long  Island  48. 
Mahanoy  and  Sbamokin  866. 
Blaryland  and  Delaware  892. 
Mauoh  Chunk  and  Summit  1011909. 
Middleburgh  and  Schoharie  828. 
Morris  and  Eseez  289. 
Montreal  and  Plattsburgh  120. 
Mountahi  Link  and  SchuylkiU  Valley  886. 
Nesquehoning  Valley  820. 
New  Jersey  Midland  214. 
New  Jersey  Southern  289. 
New  York  and  Canada  188. 
New  York  and  Harlem  66. 
New  York  and  Lake  Mahopao  69. 
New  York  and  New  Haven  6S. 
New  York  and  Oswego  Midland  214. 
New  Yoric  Central  and  Hudson  Biver  62. 
161. 

New  lloute  170. 

Old  Route  200. 
New  York,  Kingston  and  Syracuse  81. 
North  Pennsylvania  80O,  819. 
Northern  Central  882. 
Northern  of  New  Jersey  219. 
Ogdensburg    and  Lake  Champlain  126. 
Oil  Creek  and  Alleghenv  River  868. 
Oswego  and  Syracuse  2w. 
Pennsylvania  888. 

New  York  Division  264. 
Penn.  and  N.  Y.  Canal  Co.  816. 
Pennfiylvania  and  Delaware  840, 892. 
Perkiomen  881. 

Philadelphia  and  Baltimore  Central  886. 
PhiladelphU  and  Erie  866, 867. 
Philadelphia  and  Reading  880. 
Philadelphia,  Qermantown  and  Morris- 
town  880. 
Philadelphia,  Wilmington  and  Baltimore 

886. 
Pithole  VaUey  869. 
Pittsburgh,  Fort  Wayne  and  Chicago  861. 
Pittsburgh,  Washington  and  Baltimore 

864. 
Poughkeepsie  and  Eastern  79. 
Queen  Anne's  and  Kent  892. 
Reading  and  Columbia  886. 
Rensselaer  and  Saratoga  98. 
Rome,  Watertown  and  Ogdensburg    169. 
Rutland  and  Washington  108. 
St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  128. 
Schoharie  Valley  828. 
Schuylkill  and  Susquehanna  834. 
South  Side,  Long  Island  46. 
Southern  Central  819. 
Southern  Pennsvlv^nia  876. 
Staten  Island  46. 
Sullivan  and  Erie  818. 
Sussex  241 
Busquehaiuw,  Qet^bnig  and  Fotomao 


( 
I 
I 
i 
I 
i 
I 
I 


INDEX. 


469 


[mao9. 

28. 
K 


168. 

I. 

id  214. 

Km  BlYW  62, 


■afoae  81. 


S^Tacnae  Northmi  169. 
Tioga  229. 

Troy  aud  Boston  108. 
Tuckerton  291. 
Tyrone  and  Clearfield  ^^  '. 
Utka  and  Black  River  162. 
Utica,  Chenango  and  Siuaaehanna  Tal- 
l^y247. 


Waahlngton  Branch,  B.  k  0.  B.  B* 

Weat  Chester  840. 

Western  Pennsylvania  862. 

West  Jersey  296. 

Wicomico  and  Poeomoke  894. 

Wilmington  and  Beading  887. 

Winchester,  Potomac  and  Stnuboig  410. 


Index  to  Steamen. 


American  Coast  11, 264, 896. 
Bay  Line  896. 
Canandaigua  Lake  208. 
Cayuga  Lake  204, 207. 
Chautauqua  Lake  287. 
Chesapeake  Bay  896. 
Delaware  River  264. 
East  River  11, 86. 
European  Ports  10, 268, 886. 
Hudson  River  11, 62. 
Keuka  Lake  888. 
Lake  Champlain  110. 
Lake  George  107. 


Long  Island  Sound  11, 65* 
Mount  Vernon  460. 
Ohio  River  868. 
Ontario,  Uke  187, 191, 217- 
Otsego  Lake  826. 
Ottawa  River  182. 
Potomac  River  428. 
Sag  Harbor  68. 
St.  Lawrence  198. 
Sohroon  Lake  184. 
Seneca  Lake  206, 212. 
Staten  Island  46. 
Western  Lakes,  the  197* 


Dplidnl26. 
rer869. 


n6. 
840,892. 

Central  886. 

67. 

and  H  orris- 
id  Baltimore 


Chicago  861. 
id  Baltimore 


sbuig    169. 


.834. 


id  FotoniftO 


AI^  VERTiaEMENTa, 


CO 


0 


0 

■M 


0 


Ir{'W.TAia^ 


o^STANDARP> 

^      i  TOOTH  WASH.  I        f^S^rtS^^^^Ti 


BUBNETT'S  EALLISTON, 

As  a  Wuh  Ibr  the  Compkizion,  has  no  equal.    It  b  dietingnMied  fat  Ke  cooling  and 

soothing  propratiee,  and  is  admirably  adapted  to  all  nnnataml 

conditions  of  the  skin. 

THE  KALLISTON  IS  HIOHLT  REGOHMBNIffiD  AS 


A  Wash  for  the  Head, 

Ooolfng,  eteanttng,  and  r^retkitiff. 

After  fibnTiimry 

Stifttning  the  beard,  and  rendering  the 
tirinemooth. 

For  Bites  of  HosqnitoeB  and 
other  Insects, 

Neutralizing  thepoiton  aMo$t  instanta- 
neotuly. 


After  Sea-Bathtngr, 

RiUevimg  the  dieaoreeable  aetUm  vf  tketaU 
water  and  the  tim. 

For  Chapped  Hands^ 

An  tff^tive  ofiplicatUm, 

In  the  Hmrserfy 

Peculiarly  adapted  to  the  bathing  cf  in- 
fants. A  fac  drops  smfftcient  far  a  bowl 
cf  water. 


This  preparation  renders  the  nkin  soft,  thereby  relieving  its  glandular  parts,  and 
inducing  that^H«  tutian  of  the  capillaries  which  imparts  both  beauty  and  health  to 
the  comi^ezion.  It  may  be  relied  upon  for  promoting  a  healthy  condition  of  the 
skin  and  beasUifying  the  complexion. 


10 


ADyERTlSEMSHTS^ 


WK[\jm  STEAM  PACKET  COMPANY. 

DAUT  LDIB  or  mtSI-OLASS  8IBAMERS  BETWEEN 

Bcmton  and  Portlaiia 

THBOUOHOUT  THX  'XEAIU 


One  of  the  flnMlaM  steoMn  ctf"  fhlfl  Um, 

JOEV  BROOKS,  -  -  FALKOtTH,  -  -  FOBEST  CXTT, 

will  kaTS  India  Whaxf,  Boston,  EVERT  EYENINO,  Sundays  excepted, 
oonnecting,  on  anlTal  at  Portland,  with  lailway  trains  liir 

North  Conway,  VMte  MoDntains,  Gorham,  N,  E,  Hontreal, 

QUIBBEC,  AND  ALI.  PABTS  OF  CANADA. 

ALSO  WITH  STBAMEBS  FOB 

Bangor,  Mt.  Desert*  Machias,  Halifax,  If.  S.,  Prlaoe  Edward 
Iiland,  Cape  BretoUf  and  St.  J<diiis»  N.  F. 

Betnming,  leate  Portland  EVERT  EVENING  for  Boston  (Sondays  excepted). 


Thvoui^  Tlehets  to  the  aliove  points  sold  om  board  the 
stoamen. 

The  Steamers  of  this  line  are  well  ftumished,  and  havv  a  large  nnmher  of  elegant 
and  airy  State-rooms,  and  tourists  wUl  find  tUs 

A  MOST  PLEASANT  ROUTE  TO  THE  MOUNTAINS, 

OOMBININa  A  SHORT  SEA-TRIP  AND  A  RAILWAT  BIBB. 


•• 


TIBflE  OF  8AniZNGI>. 
Boston,  in  Summer,  at  7  P.  M •    In  I'Hntef  ,  at  S  P.  K. 
Portland,  at  7  P.  M.  throughout  the  year.' 


MFBBKS,  Agent, 

INDIA  WH4lBF, 
Boston* 


J.  B.  OOTEJB,  Jr.,  Gen.  As% 

FBANKLIN  WHABT, 

Portlamlit 


ANY. 


]XiA 


T  CITY, 

B0pt6dy 


i 


ktreal, 


Edwaid 

excepted). 
NMurd  tbe 

nrof  eksaat 

ITMNS, 

DB. 
MI. 


|aeii.Ag% 


REVERE  HOUSE, 


BOSTON. 

PRIOiSS   RBDVOmi. 

$2JfO  amd  $S.OO  per  day^  ezo«ptiiif  VnmH  Boomt 

Booms  with  Bathi. 


Notwitlistuidinf  fho  redmtion  in  priost,  the  Utberto  UNBI- 
VALLBD  BXCBLliBNCB  OF  THE  TABLE  will  be  itiiot^ 

0HA8.  B.  FERBIN,  Proprfetor. 


TREMONT   HOUSE, 

Oonwr  Trcaumt  and  Beacon  Streets* 


The  old  *'  Tremont/'  conceded  to  be  the  moit  eligibly  loceted 
1^  any  Hotel  in  Boston,  is  in  perfect  appointment,  and  oflbn 
anraipaued  accommodations  to  the  Travelling  PubUc. 

BILA8  OUBVBY  ft  CO.,  Pnpiistoia 


' 


i 

II 

I 

If « t 
-J 

<— r 

»    I 

-  Mis 


z 
< 


ADVERTtaMMSNTa,                                               | 

• 

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I52|fW&T irtt^r-f.  .'^.  v',  '       ■ '"  Z 

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"AMERICAN" 

OEMTRA.LLT  LOCATED). 

CONTAINS  OVER  FOITR  HUin)BED  BOOUa 

8UITES  AND  SINGLE  APARTMENTS,  WFZH  BATHINa  AMD  WA- 
TER CONVENIENCES  ADJOININO. 

TOURISTS. 
PASSENGER  ELEVATOR  IN  CONSTANT  OPERATION. 
READTNG-ROOM,  Rn.T.TARTVHAT.Tfl^  AND  TELEORAPH-OFFIOE. 

■■■w-  -" 

3 

56  Hanover  Street. 

*■■■  ¥" 


AD  VERTJaBMBNTS, 


PARKER  HOUSE. 

School   Street, 


HARVEY  D.  PARKED. 


BOSTON". 


ON  THE  EUBOFEATfl'  PLAN. 


'  Tha  most  oomfiirtable  Dining-Roonu  and  Beitaiuaii^  with  tlie  betfc 
lamlM  and  eooUng  to  be  fonnd  in  Bofton. 


i 
■^1 


)N". 


tlMbMi 


WESTMINSTER  HOTEL, 

Oir  THE  EVBOPEAir  FLAV, 

Corner  of  Sixteenth  Street  and  Irving  Plage, 

NEW  YORK. 

Tba  location  of  this  house  la  ono  of  the  mott  eentnl  yet  qidci  in 
tlie  dty.  Only  one  Uock  fipom  XTnion  Square^  and  within  ea«7  walking 
diitanoe  of  an  the  principal  plaoes  of  anraMment^  TiiEuiyX  Stawart'% 
Arnold  and  Constable's,  Lord  and  Taylor's,  and  all  the  fiunons  basaan 
of  the  city.  Has  been  enlarged  and  improved  the  past  season  by  tha 
addition  of  fifty  new  rooms,  Passenger  Elevator,  etc. 

CHAS.  B.  FEBBIIT,  Proprietor. 


APfMMTI9MMMMTM, 


CONTINENTAL  HOTEL, 

9th  and  OheBtnut  Streets, 

FHZUkDl^iFHIA. 

J.  S.  XINaSLEY  4  CO.,  PYopilflton. 


mi  WM,  OMinllr  looMtd,  is  CM  of  lh« 

pnrkm  aad  cbMnbm  m  Milli^  wtth 
«M«f«te  tent  TwitfkteA  and  auMii 
ujlMMliBttewaikL 


IftkMW 

to  and  tti  aCToialaiiiiti  rf 


\ 


T«rm8,  $4.50  p«r  day. 


*S  WRITINGS. 


<  »>■» 


Saborbaii  BketdheSi    nim- 
trated $2.00 

Venetian  Life  .    .    .    .   a.00 

Their  "Wedding  Jonmey. 
lUostrated 2.00 


Italian  Journeys  .    .   .$8.00 

A  Caianoe  Aoqnaintanoe. 
Illiutrated 2.00 

The  Same.    18mo  .    .    1.50 
Poems   .    .    .    ...    .    .    1.50 


"Mr.  How»na  dwerfM  %  plaet  in  fhe  lint  xaak  of  AnMrioaa  tmTelkn."— 
Paa  Maa  Qazttf, 

"  Tb*  gnat  body  of  the  enltirated  pubUo  has  an  InitlnctlTO  delight  in  orloliial 
fmliM,  irtiethor  It  be  refined  or  aensational.  Mr.  Howelli*!  le  emioMitly  refined. 
ttiehiUBorlgthehnniorof  apoet"— E.  P.  Whitpu.  i 


*i|*^Tor  taiU  by  Soc3t$dUn.    SetUf  pott-^paid^  on  reemjpt  ^f  ptict  by  the 

EOUOHTON,  OSGOOD,  &  CO..  Boitcm. 


%•  For 


. 


' 


' 


FIFTH  AVENUE  HOTEL, 

,  NEW   YORK, 

Frontiiig  on  Madtocm  Park,  Fifth  ▲▼8a«% 
23d  and  2Mk  Straatik 

FIR8T-0LA88  IN  EVERY  RE8PE0T. 
OoaTwlMii  toall tiM pgrladptl plaots of  aaraMOUB^ ud  of  omf  momi 

LiTwrf  all  BOW,  and  fho  flaoit  in  tlM  oi^. 

DABLINa,  OBISWOLD,  ft  00. 

M BOOKS  or  BAMB  ANB  BBZXOIOUB  XUXOJU*' 

WARNER'8~WRITINGS. 

mr  SUMMEB  IN  A  QABDBN    ......    .$1.00 

The  Same,    niostrated  by  Darlbt 8.00 

SAUNTEBIKOS.    A  Book  of  Travel  Sketches  in  Europe     1.60 

BACELOO  STUDIES.    Bliistrated  by  Hoppin  .    .    .     S.00 

BADDECE,   and  that   Sort   of  Thing.    Travel 

Sketches  in  British  Provinces 1.00 

"  Thow  who  hare  read  one  of  Mr.  Warner's  books  will  not  probably  need  any 
persuasion  to  indace  them  to  take  up  another.  His  wit  and  humor  are  always  d»> 
Ughtftil,  often  fhll  of  surprises,  and  the  flaTor  lingers  long  alter  the  leaf  has  be«i 
turned  on  which  the  author  had  impressed  it."  —  Jhe  Morning  Star. 

*«*  For  $ah  bjf  BockteUen,    SttUf  pod-paid^  on  recent  of  price  by  the 

HOUGHTON,  OSGOOD,  ft  CO.,  Bofton. 


AD  VMBTJSBMBIfTS, 


GRAND  UNION  HOTEL, 


8A&AX0GA  amSQB, 


'  *        «        I*.  .      «l 


BRESUN,  FUKCELL^  &  Ca 


ri 


HOTEL, 

HEW  YOBX» 

Oor.  BroadTvay  and  Prince  St. 

BOARD  1^4  Pl»  DAT. 

bbesldt;  pxtroell,  &  ca 


GILSEY   HOUSE, 

NEW  TOBE, 

Oor.  Broadway  and  29tli  Street 


ON  THX  BUBOPKAN  PLAN. 


BBESLIN,   GABDNER,  &  00. 


AL  VERTiaMMEWT9* 


&ca 


u 


St. 


. 


kca 


*eet 


00. 


3^01X8X3  X:STASXiI8SBI>    1887. 

DIXON'S 


fift  f'- 


PAtKHTID'^  IMSBIOAII 


ORAPHITX;   PXSIVCIIiS. 

10  snida»t  4»l  Mads  iii  Art  styles. 

FINEl   smooth;   STRONG,   PLEASANT. 

THB  FOLLOWING  00RRBSP01f»BN0B  SPEAKS  TOR  TTSBiV. 
Mr.  Knight  is  probably,  the  mpet  critical  and  ^chniaftl  ezpevt  in  Um  hn  of  peBcflli 
In  this  country,  and  reeiiTed  our  wuckj^  with  ttie  natural  prvdadioe  agafaut  a  new 
article ;  tried  them  under  protest,  partaking,  aa  we  beUeTt  he  did,  of  the  wide-spiMd 
feeling  that  a  really  fine  panctt  has  not  yet  been-  produced  in  the  United  States. 
But,  with  the  true  j^nsti^cts  of  a  highrtoned  ciitlc,  he  does  not  besitata  to  acknowl- 
edge merit,  when  ftilly  convinced. 

v.  8.  Patent  Offlce, 
'  '-  WAiBtKOMx,  D.  C.  March  6, 1874. 

I  am  using  the  beet  Imported  Slberfaub  ptoells  And  paying ^(8  IAjOO)  eighteen  dol- 
kxs  per  gross  ftnr  them.  I  haye,  ftir  the  production  dr  thd  diawtags  iiMd  in  my 
Dictionary,  four  draughtsmen  who  eannot  be  beaten  in  the  United  States  for  fin* 
pencil-work.  Tour  pencil  Y  Y  H  is  quite  up  to  the  quality  of  the  9 18.00  imported ; 
It  can  hardly  be  \>tVba\  but  my  best  draunttnoan  says  it  is  perh^p  a  little  better. 
We  shall  hereafter  use  none  but  your  Y  Y  H,  and  I  have  experimented  careftilly.  I 
send  some  of  the  drawings  firom  which  ay  cuts  are  made,  to  show  you  that  I  need 
the  Best  High-Grade  Pencils  at  any  price. 

nie  paelo^e  eontaintng  M,  Y  H,  and  Y  Y  H  peneils  came  mShXy  to  hand,  aiid  some 
have  been  gtrea  to  otiier  bureaus  in  the  department,  with  <>terywhere  a  ftroiaUe 
verdiot.  I  ain,  yours  truly,  EDWARD  H.  KNIGHT,  A.  M., 

Ejmminer-in- Charge  of  CHaaiJkaHtm  and  Official  PiMieaUons,  U.  S.  FattiU 
Qffie$;  Author  of  **E$iigke$JbnmeamMuhamiMlI)uti^^     ■ 

Post-Ofllee  I>epaitiiifUkt9- 

(ToFOSAArarcii,  Dinsioii),  Washwoton,  D.  C,  March  n,  1874. 
Ousm  CiitatAlH»,  Esq;:  Sir,-^HaTing  made  tried  of  the  IHxon  American 
Graphite  Pencil  in  this  Division  of  the  Post-OBiee  Department,  I  cheerfhlly  add  my 
testimony.  W.  L.  NICHOLSON,  Topographer  P.  O  Depttrlment. 

'•  f*.<^  E"« '  The  Unders^ed  concur  in  the  above. 
0.  H.  POOLE,  AssistatU  Topogn^pher.    A.  F.  DINSMORE,  PrinJpal  DrauglUnnan. 

Treaaary  Department* 

(OmoB  OF  SunRvumo  ABOBmor),  WASHmoroiv,  D.  0.,  April  8, 1874. 
Obistes  Cletixand,  Esq.  :  Sir, — Having  used  Dixon's  American  Graphite  Pencils 
in  this  Department,  it  affordi  me  pleasure  to  add  my  testimony  to  the  above. 

F.  W.  CHANDLER,  AssistatU  ArehUeet. 

THB   ONIiT   PENOIIiS   AWARDED 

THE  GRAND  MEDAL  FOR  PROCURESS 

AT   VIENNA,   1873. 

These  fine  pencils  are  rapidly  taking  the  jdace  of  every  other  kind,  for  samples 
W  InfionBatiwi  write  to 

THE  JOa  BIXOH  CETJdBLE  CO, 

Jersey  City*  Bf.  J. 

Manuihetnrers,  for  nearly  fifty  years,  of  Dixon'i  CrnelbleS)  Dixon**  Stovre 
Poltob,  liumber  Penella,  and  Plumbasoy  Blaek  I<ead,  Gnq^te, 
for  all  VMS. 


AD  VERTiaEMBNTa. 


PnUman  Can  and  all  Modern  ImproTements. 

CENTRAL  VERMONT  R.  R.  LINE. 


IS  THS 


Shortest,  Quickest,  and  Best  Route 

BETWEEN 

BOSTON  AND  MONTREAL, 

QUEBEC,  OTTAWA,  TORONTO, 
THE  ADIBONDACKS, 

Thousand  UIan<lf ,  Iiakes  Otaamplaln,  G«orce,  St*  Begts, 

MemphremaKOK, 


AlTD  SABATOGA  SPBINGS, 

BS,  Albursh,  Sheldon,  and  Clare 
also,  the 

GBEEN  AHD  WHUE  MOHHTAHra 


Hffatwima  Springs,  Albnrsh,  Sheldon,  and  Clarendon  Springs  | 

also,  the 


FOB 

Round  Trip  XSzcurslons 

To  all  the  aboTe  iK^tfl,  alao  the 

MARITIME   PROVINCES, 

Goal  and  Iron  Beglons  of  Pennsylvania, 

NIAOABA  FALLS, 

Olilcago,  Mllwankee,  St.  Paul,  St*  Iiouls,  and  Colorado, 

Call  or  send  for  the 

"SUMMER    EXCURSIONIST/' 

WHICH  CONTAINS  OYEB 

lOOO 

DIFFEBENT  EXCUBSIONS  TO  AI^Ii  THE  PBINCIPAIi 

SUMMER  RESORTS. 

iSn  OR  jLPPUOATXOir.    Tichets  and  ftill  information  at  all  the  principal  ticket-oiBcei, 

and  at 

322  WasLington  Street,  -      -  Boston,  Mass. 

(Cor.  Milk  St.) 
T.  EDWARD  BOND,  Tloket  Agent.    ^ 

L.  Mrr.T.TB,  Oen.  Supt  Trafflo.  8.  W.  CUMMINaS,  Fsssemger  Afsnt. 

St.  Albans,  Tt. 


^! 


AJ>  YERTISBMBNTa, 


INE. 

ite 

AL, 


J! 


«ii> 


Mnwi 


tdo» 

3T," 

PAI. 

Icet-olBoei, 

Mass. 


,. 


The  Grand  Pacific  Hotel 


J 


Opposite  the  GoTemment  Square  and  the  new  Federal  Buildings,  is  without  doubt  the 
most  perfect  hotel  stmctuie  in  the  world,  and  the  largest  edifice  representing  priTate 
enterprise  in  the  United  States.  Its  four  fronts  —  on  Jackson,  LaSalle,  Quincy ,  and 
Clark  Streets  —  haye  an  extent  of  ten  hundred  and  twenty-two  (1,022)  feet.  It  was 
opened  to  the  public  on  the  2d  day  of  June,  1878,  and  has  prored  to  its  multitude 
of  patrons,  representing  the  best  elements  of  the  trayelling  community,  the  well- 
chosen  and  unsurpassed  character  of  all  its  appointments  and  arrangements  (of 
which  special  mention  may  be  made  of  the  Baths,  Turkish^  EUetrie,  and  Vtgxtr), 
secured  with  a  layishness  of  outlay,  aided  by  experience  and  eaieflil  study,  ne^er 
before  (^ren  to  an  enterprise  of  its  class.  The  magnificence  of  the  exterior,  its  great 
interior  rotundas,  superb  public  apartments,  and  unequalled  suites  of  prlrate  rooms 
on  its  mile  of  corridors,  the  system  and  detidl  of  its  management,  haTe  not  only 
won  the  pride  and  admiration  of  our  citizens  and  guests,  but  ftimish  the  key  to  th« 
success  of  the  Grand  Pacitio,  which  flrom  the  outset  has  nerer  been  equalled  by 
any  previous  or  contemporary  enterprise.  Central  to  all  the  great  railway  depots, 
the  banks,  wholesale  stores,  and  places  of  el^pmt  shopping,  and  amusements,  it  it 
at  all  seasons,  hy  its  lightness,  spaciousness,  and  perfection  of  ventilation,  the  most 
comfortable  as  well  as  elegant  home  for  the  resident  guest  and  tourist  ever  oflfiBred. 
And  it  wiU  be  maintained  aa  it  has  begun,  the  most  complete  and  perfect  hotel  In 
the  world, — a  claim  for  it  sustained  by  the  guests  of  the  past  eleven  months,  many 
of  them  our  patrons  since  the  opening  of  the  fbimer  Sherman  House,  July  8, 1861. 

OEOBGE  W.  GAGEy 

JOHN  A.  BICE, 

Lxssus  roR  20  tiam. 


AD  VERTiaBMENTa, 


FORT  WILLIAM  HENRY  HOTEL, 

LAKE  GEORGE. 


This  magailloant  Hotel,  with  Moommodatioiui  for  900  pcfMnu^  win  be 
opened  fax  gneeta  Jime  1, 18T6.  To  accommodate  thoee  who  wUh  to  q>end 
tlM  •wumer  at  the  Lake^  tlie  price  will  be  placed  at  the  popolar  latec  of 
firom  $81  to  $S(  per  daj  depending  on  locatton.   ^ 

Sail  utd  8t«am  TaehtSt  Small  Boata»  Oantecas  of  all  Idnda, 

Saddla  Hovaos,  #te*»  can  be  had  by  iaqnirinf  at  the  cOca. 

Tba  <hrdiMteafbrthaiiiinmeriBOBeof  thibeatlntheooimtij. 

Until  Jvne  Ist^  fax  plan  of  loom^  addxeaa  "The  Arlington,"  Waih- 
iagton,  D.  0.  ^ 

T.  B0E8SLE  &  SON, 

Owncn  and  Fkoprleton. 


«*M«  eomefJb  «M»fo  you  wUh  a  Stole  ufMeh  holdeth  eMIdren 
prom  play,  mnd  old    im«m  /Vof»    tho  €Mmney-Con»er.''  — Sb 

AIDRICH'S  WRITINGS. 


MABJOBIE  DAW,  and  Ofher  People.    Ooih,  $1.50; 
Paper,  fl.OQ. 
"  Thwn  nnapproeefaabto  ftoriM.*'  —  Bo$tom  Cornier, 

THB  8TOBY  OF  A  BAD  BOY.   Ulastrated.    f  1.50. 
**  An  adminble  spwiman  of  what  a  boy's  itofy  ihooM  be."  —  Bafton  iAcitMrf^ 

FBTTDENCB  PALFBBY.    With  Picture  of  "Prudence"  by 
Miss  Hallock.    Cloth,  i  t. 50 ;  Paper,  $  1.00. 

"  He  !•  master  of  the  art  of  arresting  the  attention  of  tbe  reader  at  the  beginning, 
and  <^  keeping  it  to  the  end,  and  this  is  due  as  much  to  his  way  of  nanating  as  to 
the  Interew  of  his  nanatttas.  He  Is  nndoubtedlv  one  of  the  most  attractife  and 
agreeable  of  story-tellers,  and  Via  stories  are  at  the  same  time  ftvsh,  original,  and 
arttstlDally  j^knned  and  exaeuted,  giving  AiU  play  to  all  his  flwuHias,  humoioas  or 
poetio." — 1.  P.  Wmrpu. 

•^f  For  §aiU  bg  BoaktoUorf.    Sent^pott-paidf  on  r«c«ipt  &f  price  hy  ik$ 

^'^'^^^  HOUOBTOlSr ,  OSGOOD,  &  CO..  BMton. 


FEL, 


1^  wmiM 

to  qMnd 
of 


lkted% 

by. 

nolon. 


thiidren 

'."-8a 


$1.50; 


1.50. 
ace"  by 


icoliming, 

ktUlgMto 

ctlTD  and 
!liiA,aiid 

BORNIiCV 


Nrton. 


AD  VBBriSBJajrTA 


THB  OBSAT 


BALTIMORE  &  OHIO  RAILROAD, 


HATINO  JETER  IN  TIEW 


The  Comfort  and  Welfare  of  its  Patrons, 


■Ireadj  eompleted,  and  In  oonne  of  eonttnwtionf  at  ooi 
Tonient  points  along  Its  llnOf  somo  of  tlio 


FINEST  HOTELS  AND  MEAL  STATIONS 


IN  THE  GOUNTBT, 


WHBBE  THE  HUNGBY  TBAYBLLBB 


wiun 


FUBHIBHBD  WUH  EVEKYTHIVO  THE 

AFFOBBS, 


um 


AMPLE   TimE  GIVEN   TO   EN  JOT   A 

sviuptvovs  repast. 


&3^  Dyspepsia  Shops,  and  the  old  song,  **  Fifteen 
Minutes,"  &o.,  do  not  exist  upon  this  Line. 


AL  VERTISEUBNTa. 


WONDKBFUIi  SUCCESS   OF 

DR.T.FELIX  GOURAUD'S'ORIEHTAL  CREAM," 

OB 

Magical  Beantifier. 

ITS  7AMS  IS  BAFIDLT  BPBKAPnro  OVXB  THB  COVHTRT. 

See  the  avalanclie  of  Testimonials,  selected  from  thoasaDds,  in  its  praise. 

A  French  lady  writes : 

Vom.  OouBAUD,— 'Tls  but  an  act  of  Justice  that  I  should  spontaneously  give  yoa 
my  unqualified  testimonial  of  the  united  efficacy,  innocence,  and  fVagrance  of  your 
preparation  for  purifying  and  cleansing  the  sicin.  By  its  use  every  pimple  and  freclile 
nave  vanished  from  my  face.  You  saould,  Mon  Amx,  as  it  is  so  sovereign  and  charm- 
ing a  remedy  for  scattering  all  blemishes  from  our  flEices,  call  it  le  deliee  dea  dames.  Sn 
wn  tnoLje  tuis  endwmU  de  le  eosmetique  etj'en  voua  remercie  de  tout  mon  eceur. 

Emillb  Dbsmocuns,  MadlBon  Avenae. 

The  following  from  the  Eminent  Trasedienne,  Mrs.  D.  P.  Bowers. 

Db.  OonBAUD,  —  Will  you  send  six  bottles  of  your  "  Oriental  Cream  "  to  the  above 
•ddrass,  not  forgetting  to  be  reasonable  in  price?  Yours  Truly,  Mbs.  D.  F.  Bowsbs. 

The  following  from  Krs.  Col.  Tonnar.  ILady  of  Col.  Yoangt  of 
"  Touns's  Kentucky  Cavalry." 

Db.  T.  Fblix  00UB4CD.  Hamilton,  Ohio,  July  7,  ia'S9. 

Dbab  Sib,  — Some  weekB  since  I  wrote  to  yon,  enclosing  the  Sun.^*f  Despatch. 
with  a  notice  of  your  valuable  cosmetic, "  Oriental  Cream."  I  fear  that  yoo  did  not 
receive  my  communicati<Hi :  if  not.  I  shall  be  much  pleased  to  hear  fWnn  you, »  nd  also 

f  ratified  to  receive  a  half-aozen  of  your  charming  preparation  fbr  the  eoiupleBioo. 
'our  "  Oriental  Cream  "  should  be  immortalized,  as  I  have  no  doubt  it  Is  already  by 
many  a  fhir  dealer  in  this  charming  device  for  rendering  youth  immortal.  The  wo- 
men are  all  crazy  to  know  my  recipe  for  a  brilliant  complexion.  I  have  lost  half  of  my 
good  looks  already  for  the  want  of  this  hidispensable  luxury,  as  I  am  travelling  for 
the  health  of  my  little  boy.  Obediently  yours,        F.  L.  Youn  o. 

From  the  Countess  de  Bierski,  a  lioadinc  Soeiety  Ijady. 

Db.  Govbaud.  Rochksteb,  February  18. 1867. 

Dbab  Sib,  —  Please  send  me  two  more  bottles  of  your  charming  "  Oriental  Cream," 
hj  American  Express,  and  oblige   Yours  respectfully,        r-uNTSss  db  Bibbski. 

From  Miss  Fannie  Stockton,  the  Prima  Donna  of  the  Opera  House^ 

Buffalo,  December,  1866. 
Db,  T.  F.  Ooubaud, — T  do  not  wish  to  put  atiything  else  in  contact  with  my  fhce, 
■o  delighted  am  I  with  this  matchless  eosmetique.    Please  send  me  ten  bottles. 

Fanmib  Stockton. 

Db.  GousAim.— Ihave  fbnndydnr  "  Cream"  so  delicious ;  it  softens  and  makes 
the  skin  so  beauuAil :  it  does  give  me  fkith  in  your  other  preparations. 

Miss  Anna  G*wi,  Bangor,  Me. 

Db.  T.  Fblix  Govbaud,— The  "  Cream"  is  the  nicest  wash  for  the  skin ;  it  is  ex- 
cellent.    Mbs.  £.  CUBTIN,  3t.  Louis. 

Db.  GouBAUD,— Your  "Oriental  Cream"  is  perfectly  delicious  :  it  is  so  cooling 
and  refipeshing.  Mbs.  Eaton,  Boston. 

From  Evans,  the  celebrated  Perftimer,  of  Philadelphia. 

Philadelphia,  April  30, 1868. 
Db.  Goubaud,— I  think  your"  Cream"  is  unquestionably  the  best  thing  in  this  line, 
fh>m  the  reason,  when  a  lady  once  uses  it  she  continues  it  in  preference  to  anything 
else.  Our  customers  for  it  are  regular  ones.  I  find  it  is  retailed  by  the  druggists  and 
fluioy  stores  at  Two  Dollars  a  bottle  yet.  There  is  more  sold  here  than  yon  are  aware 
of.  What  is  required  to  insure  a  large  nale  is  a  liberal  amount  spent  in  judicious  ad- 
vertising. Let  the  ladies  know  its  merits,  and  especially  the  price,  and  if  they  once  tir 
it  we  secure  a  regular  customer.  If  I  was  the  owner,  I  would  sell  more  of  it  in  ttalii 
citiythan  ail  the  rest  of  the  skin  preparations  put  together.  ^  T.  W.  Evass. 


Prepared  and  Invented  by  DB.  T.  FEliIX  CK>UBAUD,  48  Bond  St.,  N.  T. 
EstSbliBhed  18S9.   To  be  had  of  Druggists,  Ac. 

BSWAMB    OJF    COUNTXSBFBITS. 


AD  YERTiaEMENTa. 


ST.  NICHOLAS  HOTEL, 

Broadway,  New  York, 

It  unequalled  in  size  and  appointmenta,  liaving  600  rooms  and  100  suites  of 
apaxtments  for  private  fiunilies,  and  accommodations  fur  1,000  guests,  each 
apartment  containing  hot  and  cold  water,  and  gas. 

THIS  HOTEL  18  ADMIBABLT  LOCATED  FOB  BV8IHE88  OB 
PLEASUBE  TBAVELLEB8. 


of 


Passengwr  elevator  conneots  with  every  floor. 

8.  HAWK  ft  CO.,  Froprib::oni. 


,> 


WWWViKSi  HOUSE, 

Madison  Square,         -         -         •         19'e'W  York. 

EUROPEAN  PLAN. 
Said  by  all  travellers  to  be  tbe  best  hotel  In  tbe  world. 

0.  H.  READ,  Proprietor. 


i 


■MWtakBKM 


ADTMRTiasMKNTa, 


Grand  Hotel, 

Oor.  31st  Str^pt  and  Broad-way, 

NEW  YOBE. 


I 


▲  nevhonae.  Themoit  elegaat  and  eonToniflgit  in  NtwYork.  Splen* 
didly  flmUalied,  Most  fiiYoxably  located  for  evoiy  pmpoM  of  tnudneu  or 
ploarare.   Kear  all  Depots,  Theatres,  and  the  most  fiwhionable  stores. 

COHDVCTED  ON  THE  EUBOFEAK  FLAK. 

HENRY  MILFOBD  SMITH,  Plfoprietor. 


ADVERTiaEMMXra. 


fork.  Splen* 
)f  InudneM  or 
'Stores. 


EVopxietor. 


ADVICE  TO  TRAVELERS. 

Evert  man  who  travels,  and  every  other  man,  is  ^ore 
or  less  exposed  to  death  or  injury  by  accident.  Such  men 
are  reminded  that  there  is  a  company  organiibcd  for  the 
special  purpose  of  insuring  against  accidents  to  life  and 
limb.  Not  against  accidents  of  travel  alone,  bult  against 
accidents  in  general. 

So  well  has  this  company  prosecuted  the  business  of  Acci- 
dent Insurance,  that  it  has  written  upwards  of  two  hundred 
and  eighty-five  thousand  policies,  and  paid  over  Two  Mil- 
lion Dollars  in  benefits  to  its  policy-holders.  We  refer,  of 
course,  to  the  Travelers  Insurance  Compant,  of  Hart- 
ford, Conn.,  which  has  cash  assets  of  Two  and  a  Half  Mil- 
lions, is  every  way  sound  and  reliable,  and  promptly  pays 
all  just  claims. 

Every  man,  whether  he  travels  much  or  little,  should 
have  one  of  the  general  accident  policies  of  the  Travelers. 
Thousands  of  men  have  them,  and 

**  There  >&  room  for  thonsa&ds  more." 


COST  OF  A   YEARLY   AGCIDEIVT  POUCY 

In  the  Travelers  Insurance  Compant. 


Amomit 
Iiuund. 

Wceklv 
bidemnitr. 

ANNUAL  PREMIUM. 

Clan 

FNftiTCd. 

Clan 
Ordinary. 

Clan 
Medium. 

1,000 
2000 
8,000 
6,000 
10,000 

6.00 
10.00 
16.00 
26.00 
60.00 

6.00 
10.00 
16.00 
26.00 
60.00 

7.60 
16.00 
22.60 
87.60 
76.00 

10.00 
20.00 
80.00 
60.00 

Fr^flurrad  CUu  indudes  Olergjmen,  Editors,  Lawyers,  Merdumts,  Clerks, 
Bankers,  Bookkeepers,  etc. 

OrtitiMry  CUus  includes  Oommeroial  Agents,  Trayellng  Men,  Insoranoe  Adjusters, 
Bookbinders,  Printers,  Railroad  Superintendents,  Machinists,  eto. 

Mtdium  ClM$t  includes  Passenger  Conductors,  Carpenters,  Blacksmiths,  Varmen^ 
Botchers,  Masons,  Stage-Drivers,  eto. 

tr  Apidj  to  any  Agent,  or  wri(«  to  tha  Company,  at  Bartfiod,  Conn. 

JONB,  1876. 


^■7 


■  ^ 


ADVMMTiaMMKMTM. 


I  I 


LITTLE   CLASSICS. 


■f ' 

"A  MriM  of  CKqnlaltelf'  printed  little  Yalmiiflt  In  fl«zlM«  Undlns 
•ad  red  edgee*  which  sather  op  the  Tenr  eholoeat  thlBge  In  our  Ut- 
«initaiie  In  the  w»7  off  diort  talee  and  ikeWhee."-- Ji#ito  <hmitr» 


The  DroM  S«ri6i  MudM  twdve  Tolnmai,  as  follows : 


L  ExUe. 

n.  Intellect. 

nL  Tragedy. 

IV.  Life. 

V.  Laughter. 

VI.  Love. 


Vn.   Bomanoe. 

vm.  Msrstery. 

IX.   Comedy^ 

X.   Childhood. 

XL   Heroism. 

Xn.   Fortune. 


VMteAilly  hound.  Frlee,  SltOO  encih. 


"  Too  omeh  pnlM  oaonot  be  aeeorded  the  vrqjaeton  of  tliif  woik.  It  liyi,  tn  % 
ynry  small  imn,  Um  cream  of  the  beet  wrtten  before  the  reader  of  average  means.  It 
usually  happens  that  very  few,  except  profisssional  people  and  scholars,  care  to  read 
all  that  even  the  most  ftmoos  men  nave  written.  Thev  want  his  best  work,  —  the 
one  people  talk  most  aboat,— and  whtn  itmiy  have  read  that  they  are  satlsfled."  — 
Ifeio  Fork  Commertial  Mkmni$er, 

"  Confessedly  the  best  miscellaaaou  collection  of  abort  itoiiea  anywhere  attain- 
able."—Aift^vrtf  Courant. 

"  There  Is  no  other  collection  of  diort  storlM  eQoal  In  valae  andi  vaiie^." —Botton 
Adoertistr. 

'*  Eveiy  one  of  these  book!  ii  worth  reading  and  baylog.*'--'i9iifiRfl/(eM  J?<ptiN^^ 

"  These  selections  are  made  with  exquisite  taste,  and  appear  in  the  daintiest  little 
volwnes  imaginable."  —  Chieago  Poat. 

"The  series  contains  nearly  every  gem  of  prose  Englidi  literature,  and  whoever 
wishes  to  have  the  beit  story  of  a  great  writer,  without  the  enoumbranoe  of  all  his 
works,  will  do  weU  to  get  this  seriea  of '  Little  Classics.' "— J}oc«^  Pilot, 


%*  For  sale  try  att  BocSbteUen,    Sent  pott-paSd  on  receipt  of  price  b, 
thepuUishers, 

SOU&BTOV,  OSGOOD  ft  CO^  Boston. 


r  \  t 


18. 


0zlM«1ilndliis 
act  In  our  lit- 
igate Cburfir. 


lows: 

nanoe. 

tery. 
ledyk 

dhood. 

9i8nL 

mie. 


ck.  ItUjtfftn  ft 
Temge  means.  It 
olan,  e«re  to  read 
i  best  work.  —  the 
Y  are  aatisfled."  — 

aDjwbere  attaln- 

\tfleld  XepuMktm. 
Oie  daintiest  Uttle 


nie,  and  wboever 
nbraiioe  of  alius 


eipt  0/ price  hy 

^  Boston. 


M0#|^ 


I    » 


AtaflMaatalfliirii^iiU 


1^  llM  tttte,  and —  .«. 


'''  to  tibia  tmalag 


QftteMtlMi 


■■« « 


S-; 


■ 


ir«^ 


't 


'^«|F««»»p|#«irltlioottedloiiaiieiaorpeirti^»ni     '     %  *  ^T*^ 
.«w !^  :"r**?™T""<'"»»  pervade  Hbmilbntit.^  ^  jfem  Jbrk 


*imia.  'fits  vnM^^^^Z^^^"'^  tiia*ook.»»^ir« 

^^!^i7tot£r22«;^^l^^  4^m  longs  Ibr 


'*  IT 


i    *J 


'.  0  .^1 


«ii|liii  i«iiiiiHiiii| 


liii  I  iiiil     f  11   I  III  II 


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t<«  * 


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^^^lK|iT  MnoniA. 


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,   ■      ▲  ^^p^  ^  igr  Urn.  CUII4  BMpusOunnnm-^SiA^  imm 


.■••IB'' 


Jl  XUBCV  JBRBII0  IpDCK^ 

A  Vor^  1  to!;,  Mno.  iMP.  " 


mih  aa 


sss«s% 


tiMt  um  metyM^HMti^u 


F^ 


^    .„..:if:^ 


i  sjt.'''^'- 


▲  FAXB  BABllABXAS. 


fSn*  Boiaitt'M  Bflw 


'.-  # 


".f 


;iii 


'    I  '»>: 


A  SovYBHiR  oir  tmm  8«..  Li.inpni<|tt  Xtapat^  bMnd  In  ipwy  and  gold.  flJI6. 
!^  dneinnatt  CommtreW  isft/ **  AS » lov«  irtoiy^  rlmne,  with  ptulon  aftd 
ftdtog  wnraght  tato  the  tcim^  **S,fe?^t  !y.^if*,^^^"'^  '''^  **  ^*  ^o^^'"^'* 


C'or 


booiteUen.   Saa,  pott  pdH,  m  r$edpt  tf  prU»,  by  fhtpuXMtken, 

j^MES   R.  OSGOOb  ft  CO.»^  Boston. 


1m^rc''^»^^ 


.^*f^ >" 


%'k' 


■m^^M. 


